Modern

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

I am constantly on my laptop – for work purposes, of course!! My most favorite place to work with it is by the fireplace. A table like this makes work so much easier, plus I could use it while lying on the couch under a cozy blanket!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Kreg Jig
  • Square
  • Sander
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 1 –piece of ¾” plywood 12-1/2” x 23-1/2”
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 4 – Hinges
  • USB hub, if desired
  • 3M Command Strips to attach USB hub
  • Mouse Pad
  • Carpet Tape to attach mouse pad
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies

 

Cut List
  • 2 – 1x2 at 25”– Frame Front & Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12-1/2” – Frame Sides
  • 1 – 12-1/2” x 23-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Back
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8” - Legs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the frame sides, front & back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end of the sides. Assemble the frame as shown with 1-1/4” pocket screws and glue. Check for square.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the top and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure the top flush with the frame edge using 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the legs. Attach the a hinge to one end of each leg. Lay a leg at each corner with the wider face facing to the outside. Attach the hinge to the table top so that when the leg folds up, the hinge is sandwiched between the leg and the top, and the leg is flush with the side.

Step 3
Step 4

Use carpet tape and adhere the mouse pad in the position desired. Use the Command strips to attach the USB hub in a position that works best for your laptop. If desired, use a hole saw to cut a hole to insert a car cup holder (with the hook removed) and secure the cup holder with silicone

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

This is a such a fabulous new collection we’ve added here at TDC. The clean lines and simplicity make these pieces easy and quick to build! To see the other pieces that match, head to the Plan Index and use the menu sorting box to choose Oak Park Collection!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Safety Gear
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Table Saw
  • Drill 
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
Lumber
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 4x4 posts at 6’ (if your store doesn't sell these in 4' sizes, you will need 3 of these)
  • 1 – 4x4 post at 4’ (if your store sells in this size)
  • 2- 1x2 at 6’
  • 5 – 1x3 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Iron On Edge Banding, if desired
  • 2 – 2” or 3” angle backets
  • Spray paint to match stain or paint
  • 1 set of bed hardware – I recommend Rockler Surface Mounted Keyhole Brackets, part no. 32077
  • Wood filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 4x4 at 37” – Headboard Sides
  • 1 – 4x4 at 45-3/4” – Headboard Top
  • 2 – 4x4 at 16” – Footboard Sides
  • 1 – 23-1/4” x 37-3/4” of ¾” plywood for Headboard Panel
  • 1 – 7-1/2” x 37-3/4” of plywood for Footboard Panel
  • 2 – 1x2 at 69-1/4” – Slat Support
  • 2 – 7-1/2” x 72-1/4” of ¾” plywood for Side Rails
  • 10 – 1x3 at 39-3/4” ** – Slats **Measure spacing between rails before cutting!
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

**You will want to apply the edge banding to any exposed ply wood edges before assembly

** Cut the pieces as listed for the headboard and footboard.

The headboard top will be fastened to the sides with angle brackets. It is a good idea to spray paint the angles to match your finish prior to assembly. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter edges of the plywood panel for the headboard. Also drill pocket holes in the shorter edges of the plywood panel for the footboard. The panels will be attached at the center of each post.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side rails and attach the 1x2 slat support as indicated with the bottoms being flush. The ends of the slat support should be located 1-1/2” away from the ends of the side rail.

Step 2
Step 3

Attach the bed hardware per the package instructions. If there are no instructions, go here: and click the More Info tab for a diagram.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut ten 1x3 pieces for the slats. Measure the spacing between the rails first before cutting. Attach the slats, evenly spaced, with 1-1/4” screws through the slat into the support.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability. If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

An easy to build, expandable, and stylish piece, this table is sure to be a new favorite of mine! Don't you love the convenience of an expandable table? Me too. Especially in a home where my furniture is already filling the place to the brim. 

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1¼” pocket hole screws
  • 1½” pocket hole screws
  • 1” screws
  • 2 sets of 12” drawer slides (I recommend Blum Low Profile Slides part no. 3732 @ Rockler.com)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 33” – Aprons
  • 2 – 2x2 at 48” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 23-3/16” x 32-3/4” pieces of ¾” plywood – Top
  • 2 – 1x3 at 32-3/4”, ripped to 2” wide – Top Aprons
  • 2 – 1x2 at 18” – Slide Supports
  • 1 – 24” x 32-3/4” - Leaf
  • 2 – 1x2 at 4” – Leaf Connectors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Using the 2x2 pieces, cut the legs as indicated.  Set the Kreg jig for 1½”material and drill pocket holes in one end only of each piece.

Cut the pieces for the sides. They will overlap the top of the legs by 1-1/2”. Use glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the drawer slides to the insides of each assembly. They should be located ¾” back from the side edge. See drawing.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the aprons ¾” down from the top of the leg with the face flush with the face of the legs. Use glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the top and the top aprons. Attach an apron to one 32-3/4” edge of each top piece with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Attach to the underside of the table top locating one end flush with the front apron and 3/8” back from the side. See drawing.

 Attach the drawer slide to the outside face of the slide support on the top. The end of the drawer slide should be flush with the inside of the table top apron. There will be a 1/8” gap around the sides and in the center of the tops.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

 Cut two 1x2 pieces to use as connectors to keep the top from sliding apart. These pieces will serve dual-duty as they will be used to secure the leaf in place once inserted. Drill two countersunk holes in each piece and fasten in place with 1” screws. Do not use glue!  Even though it isn’t shown in the picture, it would be a good idea to use four connectors – two at each end, staggered so they don’t hit each other. 

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the leaf. To insert leaf, remove one screw from each connector making sure they are opposite of each other. In other words, do not remove a screw on the same side, one connector will need to stay attached to each top piece. Insert the leaf and reinsert the screws in the connectors to hold in place.  See Drawing.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

 

 

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post please PIN IT and STUMBLE IT! Comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

For those ladies who require more space for jewels, here is a taller version of the jewelry armoire. This wall-mount armoire also uses standard mirror tiles found at any big-box store. A shelf could be inserted as desired and this cabinet could be used for a myriad of things! The options are up to you!

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Tall Jewelry Armoire
Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Kreg Jig
  • Router
  • Chisel
  •  Hammer
  • Square
  • Sander
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 –piece of ¾” plywood 14-3/4” x 28-1/2”
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Rabbeting bit for the router to make a rabbet 3/8” wide x 1 /4” deep
  • 2 – 12” x 12” mirror tiles
  • Hinges
  • Handle or latch for front
  • Glass adhesive or silicone caulk
  • Magnetic or clip catch for door
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 30”– Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Top & Bottom
  • 1 – 14-3/4” x 28-1/2” of ¾” plywood - Back
  • 2 – 1x3 at 30” – Door Frame Sides
  • 3 – 1x3 at 11-1/4” – Door Frame Top & Bottom
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the cabinet sides, top, and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end of the top and bottom. Secure the top and bottom to the sides as shown with 1-1/4” pocket screws and glue. Check for square.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure the back flush with the frame back using 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the door frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the top, center, and bottom frame pieces. Assemble as shown and check for square. Using a router and the rabbeting bit, cut a 3/8” wide x 1 /4” deep rabbet in the back of each opening of the door frame. Use a chisel and hammer to square the corners. Insert the mirrors into the openings to check for fit. Secure with mirror adhesive or silicone caulk. Add hinges, the door catch, and the handle or knob. Insert hooks, as desired.

To mount to a wall - Drill countersunk holes into the back and mount with 2" screws directly though at least one stud.

Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post please PIN IT and STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

We covered the tower here and the one drawer pocket desk here, and now.... the two drawer desk! This would be a fabulous entryway console table as well, with storage for keys and wallets! 

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 –1x2 at 6’
  • ½ sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 - Scraps of ¼” plywood measuring 17-1/8” x 17-1/2”
Materials
  • 1 ½” pocket hole screws
  • 1¼” pocket hole screws
  • 1 ¼” screws
  • Small nails or 1¼” brads
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 2 sets drawer slides - 16"
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 29-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x6 at 17” – Sides
  • 1 – 1x6 at 37” – Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 37” – Front Supports
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Supports
  • 1 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Supports
  • 4 – 1x3 at 17-1/8” – Drawer Boxes
  • 4 – 1x3 at 16” – Drawer Boxes
  • 2 – 17-1/8” x 17-1/2” of ¼” plywood – Drawer Bottoms
  • 1 – 3-3/4” x 18-3/8” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Front
  • 1 – 3-3/4” x 18-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Front
  • 1 – 20” x 40” of ¾” plywood - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws, making sure the face of the sides is flush with the face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws making sure the face of the back is flush with the back of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front supports. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The top support will need to be positioned so it is flush with the top of the legs. The lower support will be located 4” below the top support. See drawing.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. The longer support will be in the middle. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side supports and in one end of the middle support. The front of the middle support will be located ¾” back from the face of the lower front support. Secure with a countersunk 1-1/4” screw from the bottom of the front support. See Drawing.

Step 4
Step 5

** If using edge banding, apply it to the exposed edges of the drawer fronts and top before assembly**

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces and construct the drawers as shown. The bottoms will be attached with glue and brad nails. Install the drawer slides 3/4" back from the front edge of the lower support to allow for the drawer front. Make any adjustments necessary.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. One of the fronts is 1/8” shorter than the other to allow for a 1/8” gap. Cut the notch in the center of each drawer front with a jigsaw. Shim the drawer fronts in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and fasten to the drawer boxes with 1-1/4” screws from the inside.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Fasten to the desk with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

 

A lady always needs a place to store her finest jewels… This wall-mount armoire uses standard mirror tiles found at any big-box store. It could also be used for keys, or pet leashes!

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Small Jewelry Armoire
Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Kreg Jig
  • Router
  • Chisel
  •  Hammer
  • Square
  • Sander
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – scrap piece of ¾” plywood at least 15” square
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Rabbeting bit for the router to make a rabbet 3/8” wide x 1 /4” deep
  • 1 – 12” x 12” mirror tile
  • Hinges
  • Handle or latch for front
  • Glass adhesive or silicone caulk
  • Magnetic or clip catch for door
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 16-1/4”– Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Top & Bottom
  • 1 – 14-3/4” x 14-3/4” of ¾” plywood - Back
  • 2 – 1x3 at 16-1/4” – Door Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 11-1/4” – Door Frame Top & Bottom
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the cabinet sides, top, and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end of the top and bottom. Secure the top and bottom to the sides as shown with 1-1/4” pocket screws and glue. Check for square.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure the back flush with the frame back using 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the door frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the top and bottom frame pieces. Assemble as shown and check for square. Using a router and the rabbeting bit, cut a 3/8” wide x 1 /4” deep rabbet in the back of the door frame. Use a chisel and hammer to square the corners. Insert the mirror into the opening to check for fit. Secure with mirror adhesive or silicone caulk. Add hinges, the door catch, and the handle or knob. Add Cup hooks for hanging items such as jewelry, keys, pet leashes, etc.

To mount to a wall - Drill countersunk holes in the back and secure with 2" screws into at least one stud.

Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

The perfect small-ish companion for the Tower we completed a couple of days ago, and equally as fabulous all by it's lonesome! 

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 –1x2 at 8’
  • ½ sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 - Scraps of ¼” plywood measuring 17-1/8” x 17-1/2”
Materials
  • 1 ½” pocket hole screws
  • 1¼” pocket hole screws
  • 1 ¼” screws
  • Small nails or 1¼” brads
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 1 set drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 30-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x6 at 17” – Sides
  • 1 – 1x6 at 27” – Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 27” – Front Supports
  • 1 – 1x2 at 17” – Supports
  • 2 – 1x3 at 20” – Drawer Box
  • 2 – 1x3 at 16” – Drawer Box
  • 1 – 17-1/2” x 20” of ¼” plywood – Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 3-3/4” x 26-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Front
  • 1 – 20” x 30” of ¾” plywood - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws, making sure the face of the sides is flush with the face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws making sure the face of the back is flush with the back of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front supports. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The top support will need to be positioned so it is flush with the top of the legs. The lower support will be located 4” below the top support. See drawing.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side supports. The bottom of the supports will be flush with the top of the lower front support and attached to the inside of the front legs . Secure with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. See Drawing.

Step 4
Step 5

** If using edge banding, apply it to the exposed edges of the drawer fronts and top before assembly**

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces and construct the drawer as shown. The bottom will be attached with glue and brad nails. Install the drawer slides and make any adjustments necessary.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Cut the notch in the center of each drawer front with a jigsaw. Shim the drawer front in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and fasten to the drawer box with 1-1/4” screws from the inside.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

 Cut the piece for the top. Fasten to the desk with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post please PIN IT and STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

That's right... you guessed it! This project marks the beginning of a new collection, and a fabulous one at that! Modern clean lines, mod sensibilities, and of course the greatest thing about this collection is it's relative building ease. Yep, it's pretty straightforward and definitely simple. Yahoo.

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • ½ sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 4-4x4 at 4” each
  • 1/4” plywood measuring 20-1/4” x 61”**
  • ** Scraps of ¼” plywood can be used… Make sure seams are hidden behind the shelves so they cannot be seen! **
Materials
  • 1 ½” pocket hole screws
  • 1¼” pocket hole screws
  • 2” screws
  • 1 ¼” screws
  • Small nails or 1¼” brads
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 1 sets drawer slides
  • One pair of hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 14-3/4” x 57” of ¾” plywood – Sides
  • 6 – 14-1/2” x 18-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Shelves
  • 2 – 1x4 at 13-1/4” - Base
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8-1/8” - Base
  • 4 – 4x4 at 4” – Base Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17-3/4” – Drawer Box
  • 2 – 1x3 at 11-1/2” – Drawer Box
  • 1 – 3-3/4” x 18-1/2”of ¾” plywood – Drawer Front
  • 1 – 17-3/4” x 18-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Door
  • 1 – 20-1/4” x 57” of ¼” plywood - Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

** If using edge banding, apply it to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly**

Cut the pieces for the sides and all of the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each of the 14-1/2” ends of the shelves. Starting with the top, attach the shelves to the tower box with the spacing as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Attach the back with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. If using multiple scraps for the back, make sure the seams are hidden behind the shelves!

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces and construct the drawer as shown. The bottom will be attached with glue and brad nails. The drawer slides will need to be located ¾” back from the front edge to allow for the drawer front. Install the drawer slides and make any adjustments necessary.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the drawer front. Cut the notch in the center of each drawer front with a jigsaw. Shim the drawer front in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and fasten to the drawer box with 1-1/4” screws from the inside.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the door. Cut the notch with a  jigsaw and attach the hinges to the door. Shim the door in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door) and attach the hinges to the tower

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the base. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the base pieces. Attach the base pieces to the legs. Attach the base to the bottom of the cabinet using countersunk 1-1/4” screws and with a 1” “border” around all sides of the base. 

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT and STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image
Project Details

We covered the toddler sized Industrial Cart Bed, and now I bring you the Twin sized version!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Tools
  • Safety Gear
  • Tape Measure
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig - optional and not neccessary if you want your hardware to show
  • Saw 
Lumber
  • 3 - 1x6 at 8' (have them cut this in half for you before you leave, it will transport more easily)
  • 5 - 1x4 at 8'
Materials
  • 2" wood screws
  • **1 1/4" pocket hole screws - only if you are using a Kreg Jig for the slats
  • 3/4" self tapping screws
  • 2 - 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" 90 degree metal edging at 6'
  • 2 - 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" 90 degree metal edging at 4'
  • 4 - 4" locking swivel casters
Cut List
  • 2 - 1x6 at 41 1/2" Head and Foot
  • 2 - 1x6 at 76" Sides
  • 10 - 1x4 at 40" Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build your box. I chose to use wood screws and countersink because I felt like it added to the industrial feel this bed is going for. The next step has an example of what a countersink bit will do for you!

Step 1
Step 2

Add the Bed Slats: you can attach using 2" wood screws and glue by countersinking them (you can see an example of this below), or you can use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. They should be spaced around 5" apart or so. Be sure to place the top most and bottom most slat right up against the Head and Foot Board of this bed so you can easily attach the casters later. 

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Attach the Metal Edging (I have no idea what this stuff is actually called, but you can find it at your local home improvement store and it's L shaped and 90 degrees) using your 3/4" self tapping screws. You won't be able to countersink and predrill if you are screwing in tight and close to the edge of one of the holes. Your goal is to alternated which side of the hole you screw into and you are trying to overlap the screw head to it holds the edging in place. You can see a picture of this below. I have used 4 screws on the longer pieces and 3 on the shorter and alternated which side of the hole the screw is placed on so your edging can't slide in one direction or the other.Center each metal piece on it's respective side. 

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Attach the Casters: use the same 3/4" self tapping scrws and overlap your screw heads to the caster plate in an alternating pattern just as you did in the previous step. They should sit in each corner. Mine required fastening in a horizontal manner to fit the caster plate properly, but since the casters swivel this isn't important. 

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

This post brought to you by RD Castings

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

We covered the plans for the desk and this matching hutch is another exciting addition to the Oak Park Elementary Inspired Collection! A great way to add some extra storage without taking up extra square footage... just go vertical!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Safety Gear
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 sheet of plywood
Materials
  • 1- 1/4” pocket hole screws 
  • 1- 1/2” pocket hole scrws
  • 1- 1/2” brad nails
  • Iron On Edge Banding
  • Wood filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 13” x 30-1/2” - Sides
  • 1 – 28-1/2” x 45-3/4” – Back
  • 2 – 7-1/2” x 45-3/4” – Shelves
  • 2 – 6” x 7-1/2” – Dividers
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying.

If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages.

Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

**You will want to apply the edge banding to any exposed ply wood edges before assembly ** Cut the pieces for the sides as indicated in the drawing. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom edge of each side. Don’t forget there will be a left and a right! The pocket holes to connect the hutch to the desk may be drilled on the inside or outside and filled later if you desire.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and and drill pocket holes in the shorter edges. Attach to the straight edge of the sides with pocket screws and glue.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves and the dividers. Drill pocket holes at each end of the shelves. Attach the upper shelf to the sides as indicated with screws and glue.

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the dividers to the lower shelf using a brad nailer with the spacing indicated. Secure the assembly to the sides with pocket screws maintaining the 6” spacing from the upper shelf. Secure the dividers to the top shelf with a brad nailer.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Attach the hutch to the desk using 1-1/2” screws with the back edge flush, and ¼” spacing on the sides. Instead of drilling pocket holes, angle brackets can also be used to secure the hutch.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability. If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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