Modern

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

 

A lady always needs a place to store her finest jewels… This wall-mount armoire uses standard mirror tiles found at any big-box store. It could also be used for keys, or pet leashes!

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Small Jewelry Armoire
Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Kreg Jig
  • Router
  • Chisel
  •  Hammer
  • Square
  • Sander
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – scrap piece of ¾” plywood at least 15” square
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Rabbeting bit for the router to make a rabbet 3/8” wide x 1 /4” deep
  • 1 – 12” x 12” mirror tile
  • Hinges
  • Handle or latch for front
  • Glass adhesive or silicone caulk
  • Magnetic or clip catch for door
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 16-1/4”– Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Top & Bottom
  • 1 – 14-3/4” x 14-3/4” of ¾” plywood - Back
  • 2 – 1x3 at 16-1/4” – Door Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 11-1/4” – Door Frame Top & Bottom
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the cabinet sides, top, and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end of the top and bottom. Secure the top and bottom to the sides as shown with 1-1/4” pocket screws and glue. Check for square.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure the back flush with the frame back using 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the door frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the top and bottom frame pieces. Assemble as shown and check for square. Using a router and the rabbeting bit, cut a 3/8” wide x 1 /4” deep rabbet in the back of the door frame. Use a chisel and hammer to square the corners. Insert the mirror into the opening to check for fit. Secure with mirror adhesive or silicone caulk. Add hinges, the door catch, and the handle or knob. Add Cup hooks for hanging items such as jewelry, keys, pet leashes, etc.

To mount to a wall - Drill countersunk holes in the back and secure with 2" screws into at least one stud.

Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

The perfect small-ish companion for the Tower we completed a couple of days ago, and equally as fabulous all by it's lonesome! 

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 –1x2 at 8’
  • ½ sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 - Scraps of ¼” plywood measuring 17-1/8” x 17-1/2”
Materials
  • 1 ½” pocket hole screws
  • 1¼” pocket hole screws
  • 1 ¼” screws
  • Small nails or 1¼” brads
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 1 set drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 30-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x6 at 17” – Sides
  • 1 – 1x6 at 27” – Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 27” – Front Supports
  • 1 – 1x2 at 17” – Supports
  • 2 – 1x3 at 20” – Drawer Box
  • 2 – 1x3 at 16” – Drawer Box
  • 1 – 17-1/2” x 20” of ¼” plywood – Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 3-3/4” x 26-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Front
  • 1 – 20” x 30” of ¾” plywood - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws, making sure the face of the sides is flush with the face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws making sure the face of the back is flush with the back of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front supports. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The top support will need to be positioned so it is flush with the top of the legs. The lower support will be located 4” below the top support. See drawing.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side supports. The bottom of the supports will be flush with the top of the lower front support and attached to the inside of the front legs . Secure with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. See Drawing.

Step 4
Step 5

** If using edge banding, apply it to the exposed edges of the drawer fronts and top before assembly**

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces and construct the drawer as shown. The bottom will be attached with glue and brad nails. Install the drawer slides and make any adjustments necessary.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Cut the notch in the center of each drawer front with a jigsaw. Shim the drawer front in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and fasten to the drawer box with 1-1/4” screws from the inside.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

 Cut the piece for the top. Fasten to the desk with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post please PIN IT and STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

That's right... you guessed it! This project marks the beginning of a new collection, and a fabulous one at that! Modern clean lines, mod sensibilities, and of course the greatest thing about this collection is it's relative building ease. Yep, it's pretty straightforward and definitely simple. Yahoo.

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • ½ sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 4-4x4 at 4” each
  • 1/4” plywood measuring 20-1/4” x 61”**
  • ** Scraps of ¼” plywood can be used… Make sure seams are hidden behind the shelves so they cannot be seen! **
Materials
  • 1 ½” pocket hole screws
  • 1¼” pocket hole screws
  • 2” screws
  • 1 ¼” screws
  • Small nails or 1¼” brads
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 1 sets drawer slides
  • One pair of hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 14-3/4” x 57” of ¾” plywood – Sides
  • 6 – 14-1/2” x 18-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Shelves
  • 2 – 1x4 at 13-1/4” - Base
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8-1/8” - Base
  • 4 – 4x4 at 4” – Base Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17-3/4” – Drawer Box
  • 2 – 1x3 at 11-1/2” – Drawer Box
  • 1 – 3-3/4” x 18-1/2”of ¾” plywood – Drawer Front
  • 1 – 17-3/4” x 18-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Door
  • 1 – 20-1/4” x 57” of ¼” plywood - Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

** If using edge banding, apply it to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly**

Cut the pieces for the sides and all of the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each of the 14-1/2” ends of the shelves. Starting with the top, attach the shelves to the tower box with the spacing as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Attach the back with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. If using multiple scraps for the back, make sure the seams are hidden behind the shelves!

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces and construct the drawer as shown. The bottom will be attached with glue and brad nails. The drawer slides will need to be located ¾” back from the front edge to allow for the drawer front. Install the drawer slides and make any adjustments necessary.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the drawer front. Cut the notch in the center of each drawer front with a jigsaw. Shim the drawer front in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and fasten to the drawer box with 1-1/4” screws from the inside.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the door. Cut the notch with a  jigsaw and attach the hinges to the door. Shim the door in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door) and attach the hinges to the tower

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the base. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the base pieces. Attach the base pieces to the legs. Attach the base to the bottom of the cabinet using countersunk 1-1/4” screws and with a 1” “border” around all sides of the base. 

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT and STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image
Project Details

We covered the toddler sized Industrial Cart Bed, and now I bring you the Twin sized version!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Tools
  • Safety Gear
  • Tape Measure
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig - optional and not neccessary if you want your hardware to show
  • Saw 
Lumber
  • 3 - 1x6 at 8' (have them cut this in half for you before you leave, it will transport more easily)
  • 5 - 1x4 at 8'
Materials
  • 2" wood screws
  • **1 1/4" pocket hole screws - only if you are using a Kreg Jig for the slats
  • 3/4" self tapping screws
  • 2 - 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" 90 degree metal edging at 6'
  • 2 - 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" 90 degree metal edging at 4'
  • 4 - 4" locking swivel casters
Cut List
  • 2 - 1x6 at 41 1/2" Head and Foot
  • 2 - 1x6 at 76" Sides
  • 10 - 1x4 at 40" Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build your box. I chose to use wood screws and countersink because I felt like it added to the industrial feel this bed is going for. The next step has an example of what a countersink bit will do for you!

Step 1
Step 2

Add the Bed Slats: you can attach using 2" wood screws and glue by countersinking them (you can see an example of this below), or you can use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. They should be spaced around 5" apart or so. Be sure to place the top most and bottom most slat right up against the Head and Foot Board of this bed so you can easily attach the casters later. 

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Attach the Metal Edging (I have no idea what this stuff is actually called, but you can find it at your local home improvement store and it's L shaped and 90 degrees) using your 3/4" self tapping screws. You won't be able to countersink and predrill if you are screwing in tight and close to the edge of one of the holes. Your goal is to alternated which side of the hole you screw into and you are trying to overlap the screw head to it holds the edging in place. You can see a picture of this below. I have used 4 screws on the longer pieces and 3 on the shorter and alternated which side of the hole the screw is placed on so your edging can't slide in one direction or the other.Center each metal piece on it's respective side. 

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Attach the Casters: use the same 3/4" self tapping scrws and overlap your screw heads to the caster plate in an alternating pattern just as you did in the previous step. They should sit in each corner. Mine required fastening in a horizontal manner to fit the caster plate properly, but since the casters swivel this isn't important. 

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

This post brought to you by RD Castings

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

We covered the plans for the desk and this matching hutch is another exciting addition to the Oak Park Elementary Inspired Collection! A great way to add some extra storage without taking up extra square footage... just go vertical!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Safety Gear
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 sheet of plywood
Materials
  • 1- 1/4” pocket hole screws 
  • 1- 1/2” pocket hole scrws
  • 1- 1/2” brad nails
  • Iron On Edge Banding
  • Wood filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 13” x 30-1/2” - Sides
  • 1 – 28-1/2” x 45-3/4” – Back
  • 2 – 7-1/2” x 45-3/4” – Shelves
  • 2 – 6” x 7-1/2” – Dividers
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying.

If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages.

Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

**You will want to apply the edge banding to any exposed ply wood edges before assembly ** Cut the pieces for the sides as indicated in the drawing. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom edge of each side. Don’t forget there will be a left and a right! The pocket holes to connect the hutch to the desk may be drilled on the inside or outside and filled later if you desire.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and and drill pocket holes in the shorter edges. Attach to the straight edge of the sides with pocket screws and glue.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves and the dividers. Drill pocket holes at each end of the shelves. Attach the upper shelf to the sides as indicated with screws and glue.

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the dividers to the lower shelf using a brad nailer with the spacing indicated. Secure the assembly to the sides with pocket screws maintaining the 6” spacing from the upper shelf. Secure the dividers to the top shelf with a brad nailer.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Attach the hutch to the desk using 1-1/2” screws with the back edge flush, and ¼” spacing on the sides. Instead of drilling pocket holes, angle brackets can also be used to secure the hutch.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability. If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

This is a great desk your kiddo can use from preschool to college. The modern design is the perfect addition to any décor. Need more storage? No problem! Plans are coming soon for the Hutch that will attach to the top of the desk!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Safety Gear
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Table Saw
  • Drill Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • ½ sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 4 – 3x3 posts, at least 29-1/4” long
  • 1 – 2x3 at 8’ 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x12 at 8’ ½ sheet of ¼” ply, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
  • 1- 1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” wood screws
  • Iron On Edge Banding, if desired
  • 3 Drawer Pulls
  • 3 – sets of 22” Drawer Slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 3x3 at 29-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 21” x 21-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Sides
  • 1 – 21-1/4” x 42-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Back
  • 1 – 26 x 47-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Top
  • 4 – 2x3 at 21” – Supports
  • 1 – 25” x 42-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Shelf
  • 1 – 3-3/4” x 25” of ¾” plywood – Divider
  • 1 – 16” x 25” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Shelf
  • 1 – 16-3/4” x 25” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Side
  • 2 – 1x12 at 15” – Large Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – 1x12 at 20-1/2” – Large Drawer Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 25” – Wide Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – 1x3 at 15” – Small Drawer Front & Back
  • 4 – 1x3 at 20-1/2” – Wide & Small Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 22” x 25” of ¼” ply, lauan, or hardboard for Wide Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 15” x 22” of ¼” ply, lauan, or hardboard for Small & Large Drawer Bottoms
  • 1 – 3-1/2” x 25-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Wide Drawer Front
  • 1 – 3-1/2” x 15-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Small Drawer Front
  • 1 – 15-3/4” x 15-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying.

If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages.

Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the legs and sides as indicated. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the long edges of the sides. The sides will be attached to the legs at 1-1/2” from the inside edge. See Drawing.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes along the shorter edges and attach to the legs 1-1/2” from the inside. The back will sit ¼” away from the face of the legs on the outside.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top. The top will be attached with glue and brad nails through the top face into the legs, sides and back..

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the supports to the inside of the legs with the spacing indicated. The Kreg jig will be set for 1-1/2” material. The face of the supports will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelf and the divider. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one long edge of the divider and in the short edges of the shelf. The divider will be attached to the shelf at the spacing indicated before the shelf is attached to the desk. The bottom of the shelf will be flush with the bottom of the dividers. Use a few brad nails to secure the divider through the top.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the large drawer shelf and side. Drill pocket holes in each long edge of the shelf and in one long edge of the side (to attach to the top). Attach the shelf to the side with pocket screws and glue before attaching to the desk. The bottom of the shelf will be flush with the bottom of the support.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawers and assemble as indicated. Attach the drawer slide hardware to the inside of the desk. The slides will need to be located 3/4" away from the front edge to accomodate the drawer front. Do not attach the faces!

Step 7
Step 8

Pre-drill the holes in the drawer faces for the pulls. Insert each drawer front into the opening and shim in place. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides for ease in opening and closing the drawer. Screw the drawer fronts to the boxes from the front through the holes for the pulls. Open each drawer and fasten the fronts with screws from the inside of the drawer box, then remove the screws on the outside. Finish drilling out these holes for the pulls.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image
Project Details

And so, here we go again with bed number 2 for my Monster Mash boy! But you know what... that's perfectly alright because both are handmade and I can totally afford handmade! Beds are such an easy build too, it's almost as easy as a table only it sure packs a lot of bang for your buck, am I right? Beds seem to get those coveted oh's and ah's we all love to hear after spending countless minutes building something. Yep, I said minutes... that's about how long this bed took to build. Super Simple... best. kind. of. build. I will be posting plans for this bed in other sizes, so stay tuned if you are interested in those!

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Toddler Industrial Cart Bed
Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Toddler Industrial Cart Bed

If you can't tell, that is my boy and his Jingle Dog giving me a round of applause... ha, he's such a funny little guy! He was also sure to tell me he was so proud of me for building so hard on his room and our house (which I definitely didn't build, but hey if the shoe fits... am I right?)

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Tools
  • Safety Gear
  • Tape Measure
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig - optional and not neccessary if you want your hardware to show
  • Saw 
Lumber
  • 1 - 1x4 at 10' (have them cut this in half for you before you leave, it will transport more easily)
  • 3 - 1x4 at 8'
Materials
  • 2" wood screws
  • **1 1/4" pocket hole screws - only if you are using a Kreg Jig for the slats
  • 3/4" self tapping screws
  • 2 - 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" 90 degree metal edging at 4'
  • 2 - 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" 90 degree metal edging at 2'
  • 4 - 4" locking swivel casters
Cut List
  • 2 - 1x4 at 29 1/2" Head and Foot
  • 2 - 1x4 at 53" Sides
  • 7 - 1x4 at 28" Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build your box. I chose to use wood screws and countersink because I felt like it added to the industrial feel this bed is going for.

Step 1
Step 2

Add the Bed Slats: you can attach using 2" wood screws and glue by countersinking them (you can see an example of this below), or you can use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. They should be spaced around 5" apart or so. Be sure to place the top most and bottom most slat right up against the Head and Foot Board of this bed so you can easily attach the casters later.

 

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Attach the Metal Edging (I have no idea what this stuff is actually called, but you can find it at your local home improvement store and it's L shaped and 90 degrees) using your 3/4" self tapping screws. You won't be able to countersink and predrill if you are screwing in tight and close to the edge of one of the holes. Your goal is to alternated which side of the hole you screw into and you are trying to overlap the screw head to it holds the edging in place. You can see a picture of this below. I have used 4 screws on the longer pieces and 3 on the shorter and alternated which side of the hole the screw is placed on so your edging can't slide in one direction or the other.

Center each metal piece on it's respective side. 

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Attach the Casters: use the same 3/4" self tapping scrws and overlap your screw heads to the caster plate in an alternating pattern just as you did in the previous step. They should sit in each corner. Mine required fastening in a horizontal manner to fit the caster plate properly, but since the casters swivel this isn't important. 

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

 

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

This armoire is great with its clean lines and simplicity… The large pieces should make for a quick and easy build, too! It can be used as a pantry, an organized entertainment center, or for clothing storage. Extra shelves or a clothes hanging rod can be added, also!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Tape Measure

Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter (A table saw would be best!)

Drill

Square

Sander

Kreg Jig

Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

3 sheets ¾” plywood

1 sheet ¼” lauan or hardboard

1 – 2x2 at 8’

1 – 2x2 at 6’

Materials

1¼” pocket hole screws

2” screws

Small nails or 1” brads

Countersink bit for Drill

Hinges

Knobs or Pulls for Doors

Shelf Pins (Optional, if adding extra shelving)

Wood filler

Sandpaper

Wood glue

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 21” x 67” ¾” plywood – Sides

3 – 21” x 42½” ¾” plywood – Fixed Shelf**, Top, Bottom

1 – 21” x 25½” ¾” plywood – Lower Divider

2 – 21” x 21¼” ¾” plywood – Small Shelves

1 – 22” x 67” ¾” plywood – Door

1 – 21 7/8” x 67” ¾” plywood – Door

10 – 11” x 18” ¾” plywood – Door Panels

2 – 2x2x 41” – Leg Frame

3 – 2x2x19” – Leg Frame, Support

4 – 2x2x8” - Legs

** If you are going to add extra shelves, you will need to buy one ½ sheet of ¾” plywood. The shelves will be adjustable so they will be approximately ¼” shorter than the fixed shelves to allow for the shelf pins.

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides, fixed shelf, top, and bottom. With the Keg jig set for ¾” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the shelf, top, and bottom. Assemble with spacing as indicated and make sure the cabinet is square.

If you are going to add adjustable shelves, the shelf pin holes would need to be drilled during this step. The holes will need to be drilled approximately 3" in from the front and the back on each side, and evenly spaced. The spacing will be determined by the amount of adjustment you want in these shelves. In other words, the holes could be spaced at 4" if you want the shelves to be spaced at 4" increments. It is a good idea to invest in a shelf pin jig (or make your own) that has all of the holes evenly spaced. You just line it up, drill, and go!

The lower picture shows how these shelves will look.

Remember that the adjustable shelves will be at least 1/4" shorter than the fixed shelf.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the leg frame. Set your Kreg jig for 1½” material before drilling the holes. Center the support piece and screw into place. Set your cabinet on top and allow ¾” from the front of the frame to the front of the cabinet (for the doors) and ¼” from the back of the frame to the back of the cabinet (for the back). It may be easier to attach the cabinet to the frame from the inside. Drill countersunk holes into the cabinet bottom over the frame and attach with 2” screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the vertical divider and the small shelves. Set your Kreg jig for 3/4" material and drill pocket holes in ends for assembly. It would be easier to attach the small shelves to the divider before attaching to the cabinet. Make sure the pocket holes in the divider face into the larger opening and not toward the small shelves to make it easier to drive the screws in.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back from the ¼” lauan or hardboard. If you are using this armoire as an entertainment center, you may want to drill large holes for power cords before attaching to the back. Attach with small nails or a brad nailer.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the doors. Note that one door will be 1/8” narrower than the other door to allow for a gap in the center. This makes it easier to close the doors. If the pieces were cut exactly the same size, they may rub in the center and it creates a lot of extra work to try to sand the edges evenly to make it fit!
Cut the pieces for the panels. The easiest way to assemble this would be to completely sand all pieces and draw a grid on each door. The panel pieces will be spaced 2” from the top, bottom, sides, and in between the other panels EXCEPT for the narrower door… The panels will be spaced 2” from the top, bottom, and in between the other panels but will be 1 7/8” from the center. Glue the panel pieces in place and secure with brad nails.
Install the hinges on the door, then attach to the cabinet. The type of hinges to use is a matter of personal preference. Concealed hinges can be used but I find them hard to line up.

Add your knobs or handles.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Wow was all I could say when I first saw this chair! I love the arc detail! The arcs can be cut from a template (details below) in case you decide to build more than one! I’m going to build mine using plywood scraps and leave the edges exposed! Can’t wait to see how that turns out!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Tape Measure

Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter

Square

Sander

Kreg Jig

Lumber

1-1x8 at least 22” long

2-2x2 at 8’

2-2x8 at least 32” long

2’x2’ piece of ½” plywood

Scrap ¼” plywood for arc template at least 7” wide x 32” long

Materials

2½” screws

2½” pocket hole screws

Countersink bit for Drill

Router with Flush Trim Bit

Foam and Fabric for Seat

Stapler

Wood filler

Sandpaper

Wood glue

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2-2x2 at 15” – Legs

1-2x2 at 21½” – Front

2-2x2 at 21 1/8” – Seat Frame Sides

2-2x2 at 18 ½” – Seat Frame Support and Back

2-2x8 at 32”-Arcs

1-1x8 at 21 ½” – Back

1-21 ½ x 22 5/8 piece of ½” plywood - Seat

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces as listed for the front and legs. Assemble with pocket holes and glue. Don’t forget to set your Kreg jig for 1½” stock!

Step 1
Step 2

Cut pieces for seat frame and assemble with pocket holes and glue. Space the center support piece as indicated. Attach to front frame.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the arcs using a template.

To make a template:
Draw your piece on a scrap of ¼” lauan or hardboard. Cut it out with a jigsaw and smooth any rough edges with a sander. Check the fit of the template against any pieces already built. For example, if it is a back chair leg template, the chair should already be constructed to this point. Any adjustments that need to be made can be made to the template before cutting the actual lumber. Drill a hole in the template for hanging and label it for later use.

To cut out your piece with a template:
Trace the template onto your piece of lumber and roughly cut out the shape making sure to stay outside of the lines. Attach the template to the piece with strong double-sided tape. Using a router and a flush trim bit, make sure you set the height of the bit so the guide will run along the edge of the template. Cut around the template. Depending on the length of your bit, you may have to make more than one pass around the template. In other words, if the piece you are cutting is 1½” deep and your bit is 1” deep, you will cut the piece around the template. Adjust the depth of the bit, then make another pass with the router. The guide bearing will not follow the template the second time but will follow the piece that has already been cut. Clear as mud? Here is a great demo on how to do this: http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-use-router-templates-and-bearing...

Using a template will make your pieces more consistent and uniform, and you’ll have it in case you decide to build more than one!

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the arcs to the chair frame making sure the front of the arc is level with the front leg. Drill holes into the frame using a countersink bit and screw from the inside. You can also drive a screw through the front of the leg into the end of the arc, if desired.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut pieces as indicated for rear legs. Cut angles as indicated and drill a pocket hole in the top end of each leg. Don’t forget – you will have a right and a left! Line up the leg with the arc making sure the leg spacing at the floor is approximately 25 7/8” and the height from the floor to the top of the seat frame is 15”. It is more important to have the seat height correct than the leg spacing. Drill holes inside the seat frame with a countersink bit and attach the legs from the inside.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the back from the 1x8 material. Drill pocket holes in each end. Two at each end should be sufficient but if you are more comfortable with three, do it! Attach the back making it as flush as possible with the front of the arcs.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the plywood for the seat and cover with foam and fabric. The thickness of the foam is your choice… I would use 2” foam and cover it with Dacron (upholstery batting) before I cover it with fabric. After the chair finishing is complete, attach the seat to the frame by drilling countersunk holes into the bottom of the chair support and secure with screws. You could also drill holes into the bottom of the front and back of the frame and fasten it in the same manner.
You can also attach the seat directly to the chair and make a separate cushion if you want to swap it out without taking the seat apart.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

I'm so excited to introduce a new collection and another new contributor here at TDC! Cher-Ann is going to be joining us and sharing her amazing building and furniture design talents with us! We shared her Flat File Build yesterday (click here to view that beauty) and first on her list of contributed plans is the Kenwood Collection Inspired by the Restoration Hardware collection of a similar name, and this absolutely fabulous bunk bed project! Please take a minute to visit her site, it's brand new and will definitely grow into something super fabulous! I hope you give her such a warm welcome and that you show her some love because we already have at least 5 new project plans in the works thanks to her! Yahoo!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Safety Gear Tape Measure Drill Saw Kreg Jig

Lumber

4 - 2x6 at 8' 3 - 2x6 at 6' 2 - 2x4 at 6' 2 - 2x3 at 6' 2 - 2x2 at 8' 26 - 1x4 at 8' 2 - 1x3 at 8' 1 - 7/8" Round Dowel at 2'

Materials

2 1/2" pocket hole screws 1 1/4" pocket hole screws 2" Wood Screws 1 1/4" Wood Screws Wood Glue Wood Filler Sanding Supplies Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 - 2x6 at 38 1/4" Lower Legs 4 - 2x6 at 30 1/4" Upper Legs 4 - 2x6 at 76" Bed Rails 4 - 2x6 at 33 1/2" Head/Foot Bottom Board 4 - 2x4 at 33 1/2" Head/Foot Top Board 4 - 2x3 at 44 1/2" Upper and Lower Head/Foot Top 4 - 2x2 at 76" Bed Cleats 4 - 1x4 at 18 1/2" Short/Long Rail Guard Legs 2 - 1x4 at 69" Long Rail Rails 2 - 1x4 at 51" Short Rail Rails 2 - 1x4 at 45 1/4" Ladder Rails 4 - 1x4 at 16 1/2" Ladder Rungs 26 - 1x4 at 13 1/4" Upper Head/Foot Slats 26 - 1x4 at 21 1/4" Lower Head/Foot Slats 22 - 1x4 at 39" Bed Slats 26 - 1x3 at 6" Rail Bars 4 - 7/8" Round Dowel at 5" - Dowels

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Frame out the Head and Foot Boards: You will need 2 of each pictured here. Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to secure.

Step 1
Step 2

Secure the Slats for one side of Each Head/Foot Board: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. This first round of slats will sit flush with the Legs and Rails on one side of the Head/Foot Boards, leaving space on the other side for the remaining slats. You will ultimately end up with 2 rows of slats here that stagger.

Step 2
Step 3

Tack on the Top Boards: Use 2" Wood Screws and Glue to secure the top boards to each Head/Foot Board for both the upper and lower units. Be sure to countersink these screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Fasten the Remaining Slats in Place: These will stagger in comparison to the slats you have already fastened in place and to secure you will use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 4
Step 5

Create the Bed Rails and Then Secure: The Bed Rails will be 2x6's with 2x2 cleats fastened along the bottom edges. Secure in place using 2" wood screws and glue, and be sure both pieces sit flush on the bottom edge. To fasten the Bed Rails to the Head/Foot Boards use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to secure. The bottom edge of the Rails will sit 8" up from the bottom of the legs and will sit flush with the bottom boards on the Head/Foot boards.

Step 5
Step 6

Tack down your Slats: Use 1 1/4" wood screws and glue to fasten the supporting slats to the cleats. This will act as a box spring of sorts for your mattresses, so you won't be needing box springs for this project.

Step 6
Step 7

Add the Long Guard Rail to the Top Bunk Unit (the one with shorter head/foot boards): Build the Guard Rail using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. You will place your pocket holes in the horizontal Rails, fastening them to the Vertical Legs of the unit, and also in the Slats fastening them to the Horizontal Rails. Then fasten the Guard Rail Unit to the Bed by securing it to the Bed Rails and to the Head/Foot Board. Use your 2" wood screws and glue to secure to the Rail and your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the Head/Foot Boards

Step 7
Step 8

Add the Short Guard Rail to the Top Bunk Unit (the one with shorter head/foot boards): Build the Guard Rail using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. You will place your pocket holes in the horizontal Rails, fastening them to the Vertical Legs of the unit, and also in the Slats fastening them to the Horizontal Rails. Then fasten the Guard Rail Unit to the Bed by securing it to the Bed Rails and to the Foot Board. Use your 2" wood screws and glue to secure to the Rail and your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the Foot Board.

Step 8
Step 9

Stack the Units: To do this you will need to bore a hole in the Top of the Bottom Unit Legs and in the Bottom of the Top Unit Legs that is 1" in diameter and 2 1/2" deep. Set your dowels into the bottom unit hole, then lift (carefully) the Top unit on top of the bottom unit and set onto the dowels that are sticking out. This is how you keep them stacked, but note that you can, at any time, un-stack them and use them as 2 individual beds.

Step 9
Step 10
Build the Ladder: Note that the outer corners of the ladder are angled for safety. You can use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. Secure the Ladder to the Bunk in the same manner by using your Kreg Jig to secure the ladder to both the Top and Bottom Unit Rails. You can also use your 2" wood screws and glue to secure from the inside of the Rails.
Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

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Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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