• Essentials from Target for The Design Confidential Feeling Fall // Essentials for Creating a Cozy Mantel
  • Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
  • Family Room Sneak Peek / The Design Confidential in Collaboration with Joss and Main for a Curators Collection Sale Story Interview
  • Hammock and Lounging Area for the Home Depot Style Challenge Outdoor Games Edition
  • DIY Faux Watercolor Wallpaper Wall Treatment with Paint
  • Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Tri Trestle Table
  • DIY Home Decor // How To Make Your Own Removable Wallpaper

Browse all Modern Style Free Woodworking Plans

Apr
09
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, I'm thinking this very smart reader is obviously one step ahead of me and perhaps this should be a build in my very near future as well! Especially with the week I have had, eek! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x2 at 23” – Base Frame Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 18-1/2” – Base Frame Sides
  • 3 – 2x2 at 50” – Base Frame Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 51-1/2” - Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 27-1/2” - Sides
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 2-3/4” x 20” – Shelf Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 51-1/2” – Shelf
  • 1 – 1x4 at 53” – Front Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 26-3/4” x 51-1/2” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 53” - Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 23-1/4” - Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 14-1/4” – Cubby Shelf
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 21-13/16” – Wine Caddy
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 12-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/8” x 11-3/4” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/8” x 14” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/8” x 14-7/8” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Door Caddy Bottom
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 7-1/4” – Door Caddy Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Door Caddy Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 24-5/8” x 26-7/16” - Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as the stretchers. Secure the side pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Secure the stretchers to the legs and lower side pieces using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face down and won’t have to be filled.

Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the sides and back on the base so that the back and side edges are flush – it will be located ¾” back from the front of the base. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the shelf supports and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece. Secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The supports are flush with the front edge of the bottom which makes them ¾” short to allow for the back.

Cut the piece for the shelf. Position the shelf on the supports then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The shelf will be flush with the front edge of the supports.

Cut the piece for the lower front trim. Secure to the front of the sides and the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Add a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the shelf supports and the shelf.

Step 5

 Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the divider. Position in the cabinet as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top and back.

Cut the piece for the cubby shelf. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the wine caddy (the X). Cut a 49° bevel in the top edge, and a 40° bevel in the bottom. Cut the notch using a jigsaw. Slide the pieces together making sure the bevels face as shown in the drawing, and insert the caddy into the cubby. The caddy will rest inside the opening and can be secured in place using 1-1/4” brad nails, if desired.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The drawer front will overlap on the right side (if facing the front) by 7/8” to overlap the divider. 

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the door caddy. Drill pocket holes in the back edge of the bottom as well as one end of the sides. The pocket holes will allow the door caddy to be secured to the door. Assemble the caddies using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the doors. Position the door caddies on each door noting that there will be a right and a left. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 10

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap at the sides, top, and bottom of the doors, as well as in between them. Install the magnetic catches according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Apr
04
2014
Project Details

A good sideboard slash buffet slash console slash media cabinet slash thing to put things on and in is hard to find without spending approximately one bajillion dollars. These are the perfect builds to tackle if saving cash is your thing (totally my thing since I'm always dirt poor). Yes installing drawers is a pain in the neck, but there are only three and aside from those bad boys, it's really just a carcass, or a box, if you prefer to call it something a bit less macabre, which clearly I don't, Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$150-$200

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood

Optional (if you’d rather not cut these pieces from the plywood):

  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x6 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 6 – 2x2 at 8” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 19” – Side Stretchers
  • 8 – 1x2 at 14” – Angled Leg Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x2 at 65” – Base Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/4” x 66-1/2” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-1/4” x 66-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 22” x 25-1/4” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Dividers
  • 2 – 1x2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 24-1/2” – Divider Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 20-3/4” – Front Stretchers
  • 3 – 1x2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 22” – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 21-1/2” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-3/4” x 68” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 22-3/4” – Door Base
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x6 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 18-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x6 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 21” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 22-1/4” – False Drawer Fronts (Doors)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 22-1/4” – False Drawer Fronts (Doors)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/4” x 22-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 22-3/4” plywood – Lower Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face down and won’t have to be filled.

Cut the pieces for the angled stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one end only of each piece. Cut a 45 degree angle in the opposite end. Position the stretchers on the center leg, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the entire assembly to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the base stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face down and won’t have to be filled.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

If using edge banding, it will be applied before assembly.

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position the bottom so that the front edge is flush with the front edge of the base. The bottom will be shorter than the sides and back by ¾”. Secure to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Add a countersunk 2” screw through the bottom into the center leg.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown, then secure to the base using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the bottom edge. Attach to the bottom and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the back edge as well as the bottom edge. Note that there will be a left and a right so that the pocket holes are hidden in the drawer area. Position as shown (3/4” back from the front edge), then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the divider trim. Secure to the front edge of the dividers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The edge of the trim that will face the drawer area will be flush with the inside of the dividers.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the back edge and side edges.  Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, sides, stretchers, and back.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions then make any necessary adjustments.

Step 9
Step 9
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the door bases. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the opening. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet.

Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. The center drawer fronts are wider than the false drawer fronts, and the lower drawer fronts are taller than the other drawer fronts.

Install the center drawer fronts first by pre-drilling the holes for the cabinet pull. The upper drawer front will overlap the sides by 3/8”, and the top and bottom by ¼”. Install this drawer front first, then install the remaining center fronts with a ¼” gap between them. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles. Install the cabinet pulls.

The false drawer fronts will line up with the center drawer fronts and will be flush with the sides of the cabinet. Secure to the door using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Mar
31
2014
Project Details

I hope you all had such a lovely weekend! I have been working on such a crazy project for the last several weeks and I'm finally almost ready to share it with you guys. I'm sore, and bruised, and it's going to be soooo amazing! Yahoo! So today's plan is a reader request for a simple wardrobe for storing supplies! Yay, we can all use that, especially me. Only perhaps what I really need is to simply get rid of some of my supplies because they reached hoarder status a long time ago. Ugh. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 24 x 34-1/2” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 24 x 68” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 34-1/2” x 66-1/2” - Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/16” x 66-1/4” - Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the cabinet. The cabinet can be secure in one of two ways – by using a Kreg jig and drilling pocket holes or by using countersunk 2-1/2” screws. If using pocket holes, set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each shorter end of the top and bottom pieces. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

If using the countersunk screw method, drill countersunk holes along each shorter edge of the sides. Secure the top and bottom using glue and 2-1/2” countersunk screws.

Step 2

 Cut the piece for the back. If using the pocket hole screw method, drill pocket holes in all four edges of the back. Position the piece inside the cabinet then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

If using the countersunk screw method, drill countersunk holes along the back edges of the cabinet. Position the back inside, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” screws.

Step 3

 Install the closet rod according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, cutting it to fit (if necessary) using a hacksaw. The rod will be positioned approximately 5” down from the inside of the top.

Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” cap around all sides of the doors in the opening as well as in between them. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls on the doors.

Step 5

 Install the casters according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Mar
24
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this fabulous multi-function piece serves as storage, display, and of course easily divides a space into multiple living areas. You know I love a good multi-function piece so this is a no brainer, especially since it's a rather straightforward build! Easy Peasy in fact... Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 3” x 3” posts at 8’ (If 3” x 3” posts cannot be found, 4” x 4” posts can be ripped down on a table saw, or a stacked 1x3 and 2x3 which have been glued together can be used as well.)
  • 3 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1- 2’x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 3” x 3” posts cut at 78-3/4” – Legs
  • 6 – 1x2 at 40-1/2” Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x3 at 40-1/2” - Stretchers
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 40-1/2” – Narrow Shelves
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 40-1/2” – Wider Shelves
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the stretchers will be flush with the front face of the legs. Make two of the assemblies.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the narrower shelves and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure the shelves to the legs and the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the wider shelves and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure the shelves to the legs at the dimensions indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Mar
17
2014
Project Details

A great way to store those toys both little and big! You can stack these units up by two or three and add that much more storage to your space. When in doubt always go vertical! You can view our other plans for stylish storage options and plans for coordinating children's furniture too! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – ¼” x 2” lathe strip at 4’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • Scrap of 2x2 at least 16” long
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • ¾” x 1-1/2” trim at 8’ for lower portion (the trim can be made by routing a decorative edge on a 1x2)
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 18-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/8” x 35-1/2” - Bottom
  • 1 – 2x2 at 15-1/4” – Lower Support
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/4” x 35-1/2” - Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 35-1/2” – Lower Front Support
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/4” x 17-1/4” – Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 35-1/2” – Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-3/4” x 38-1/2” - Top
  • 1 – ¼” x 2” lathe strip at 37” – Upper Trim
  • 2 – ¾” x 1-1/2” trim for sides (measure and cut to fit)
  • 1 – ¾” x 1-1/2” trim for front (measure and cut to fit)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut the piece as a square first, then draw out the angles and cut them using a jigsaw or bandsaw.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom and cut a 26° bevel in the front edge. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the lower portion of the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the 2x2 piece for the support. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom into the support.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the bottom as well as the sides. Secure to the bottom and sides of the bin using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the 1x2 piece for the lower front support. Secure to the bottom and sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the divider. Using the same method as the sides, cut the piece as a square first, then cut the angles. Drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges. Secure to the bottom and back of the bin using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the front and cut a 26° bevel in the bottom edge. Secure the piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the front and through the front into the divider.

Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. The sides and front will overhang by ¾” and the back will remain flush. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 9

Cut the lathe strip for the upper trim. Secure to the sides and the divider using glue and 1” brad nails.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the lower trim. No measurements are given because it will depend if the pieces will have a square cut at the ends or a miter cut. Measure and cut the sides to fit first, then measure and cut the front. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Mar
10
2014
Project Details

This console table doubles as a bookshelf and storage unit. Build two units and wrap a corner of your sofa, or build several and line the whole back side of that baby! I am currently using two expedit shelving units on the backside of my floating sofa, so for those of you who don't have a wall to place your sofa along, this is a fabulous solution.  With a modern shape and a low profile, it serves double duty by giving you a storage solution and providing you with a bit of a room divider at the same time. Xx... Rayan 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • ½ sht. ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List

All pieces are cut from ¾” plywood and the grain should run parallel to the longest side except as noted–

  • 3 – 10” x 38” - Shelves
  • 1 – 6-1/2” x 9-1/4” – Upper Divider
  • 1 – 9-1/4” x 12-1/4” – Lower Divider * Grain will run parallel with 9-1/4” side
  • 1 – 6-1/2” x 29-3/4” – Upper Back
  • 1 – 12-1/4” x 29-3/4” – Lower Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut all pieces as indicated. It would be a good idea to sand each piece after cutting and drilling the pocket holes because sanding after assembly may be difficult! Also, if you choose to use edge banding on the plywood edges, this would be a good time to apply that to all edges that will be exposed. If you prefer to leave them exposed, sand really well. Using the Kreg jig set for ¾” material and the Lower Divider, drill pocket holes along the 9-1/4” edges. Attach with 1-1/4” screws to one of the Shelves (this will be the lower shelf), 8-1/4” in from the edge. Make sure the front of the divider is even with the front of the lower shelf. This will allow for attaching the back.

Step 2

Drill pocket holes in the Lower Back piece on each of the 29-3/4” edges. Attach to the lower shelf and to the divider with the pocket holes facing out. See drawing.

Step 3

Lay the middle shelf on this assembly and attach with 1-1/4” screws through the pocket holes on the back and divider pieces.

Step 4

Drill pocket holes in the 9-1/4” edges of the Upper Divider and attach the divider 8-1/4” in from the edge of the middle shelf. Make sure the upper divider is placed opposite of the lower divider. See drawings

Step 5

Drill pocket holes in the Upper Back along the 29-3/4” edges. Fasten to upper divider and middle shelf with 1-1/4” screws.

Step 6

Lay the last 10” x 38” piece on top of the assembly and attach with 1-1/4” screws through the remaining pocket holes in the upper back. Finish as desired.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of The Design Confidential. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.  // Post contains affiliate links

drupal counter