• Essentials from Target for The Design Confidential Feeling Fall // Essentials for Creating a Cozy Mantel
  • Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
  • Family Room Sneak Peek / The Design Confidential in Collaboration with Joss and Main for a Curators Collection Sale Story Interview
  • Hammock and Lounging Area for the Home Depot Style Challenge Outdoor Games Edition
  • DIY Faux Watercolor Wallpaper Wall Treatment with Paint
  • Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Tri Trestle Table
  • DIY Home Decor // How To Make Your Own Removable Wallpaper
Oct
13
2014
DIY Ram's Horn Shelf and Skeleton Taxidermy Display // Easy Halloween Decor Project

Tis the season, as they say, and with this easy project you will add just the right amount of haunt to your Halloween decor, in a snap. To create your own Ram's Horn Display Shelf, only a few items and a few minutes of your time are needed. This project is seriously that easy... if you love the look of taxidermy or horns, then this could easily be a project you create any time of year, it really isn't specific to Halloween!

Spooky Display for The Design Confidential DIY Ram's Horn Shelf and Skeleton Taxidermy Display // Easy Halloween Decor Project

MATERIALS // Shelf

/ 1x6 at 6 feet. I used a dog eared cedar fence board like this because they are really inexpensive!

/ 2 - 1 1/2" Right Angle Brackets

/ 1 1/4" Screws and Wall Anchors for Drywall

/ #6 3/8" Screws if using a fence board and #6 1/2" Screws if using a regular 1x6 board.

/ Gold Ram's Horns

/ Sandpaper

/ Finishing Supplies if you plan to paint or stain your shelf. I left mine natural.

INSTRUCTIONS //

/ Cut your board down to size. Something around or under 3 feet in length is best. Sand according to your intended finish. If you plan to leave natural, sand rough edges and you will obviously need to sand quite a bit more if you plan to stain or paint your shelf. Attach your right angle brackets approximately 4 to 6 inches in from the outside edges of your board (the longer your board, the further in you will place your brackets). The hardware will attach to the bottom your board and hang downward. Mark your holes on the wall where you plan to fasten your shelf (since you attached the brackets to the board already, this will be a snap) and then put your wall anchors in place according to the instructions on the package. Set the screw holes on your bracket hardware over the top of your wall anchors (which should be fairly flush to the wall once in place) and using the screws provided with your anchors, fasten your shelf in place.

/ You are going to place a 2 1/2" drywall screw just to the outside of each of your brackets and fairly close to the bottom of your board. You will not screw this in very far. It should protrude from your wall about 2 1/4" give or take.

/ Cut your horns apart (they likely have a clear cord that would sit around your head if you were using these properly - but we are not - so cut the cord my friends, or at least unsecure it. Holding your horns at the approximate location of your long screws, determine the angle you want them to sit and make a light mark on the top in this place to note the direction for our next step. Using an extra screw, create a small hole in the flat part of the horn that is fairly near the top edge, just below where you made your mark. You are going to use this hole to help you slide the horn over the top of your screw. It will rest on the screw and sit under your board, appearing as though it is the bracket for your shelf. ** You can use a bit of mounting tape or duck tape to stick your horn in place over your brackets so they will hide the hardware and also so they are not loose. You want them to sit nice and tight, right up against your board. 

That is it, you are finished! Place something light weight to display on your shelf!

Antler Display for The Design Confidential DIY Ram's Horn Shelf and Skeleton Taxidermy Display // Easy Halloween Decor Project

To mount my antler inside the frame, I simply used removable mounting putty on each point where it touches the wall. This baby is pretty secure over here, but if you expect small children to be in the vicinity (especially below a sharp pointy antler), perhaps you should secure using nylon finishing line and wrap around the hardware used to hang your frame.

DECOR SOURCES // Halloween Cat / Halloween Crow / Golden Horns

VINTAGE + OTHER ITEMS // Frame is Vintage / Table - Zinc Garden Table from Crate & Barrel - Similar Table Here and Exact Table For Sale By Owner Here / Stacking Candelabra - PotteryBarn - Similar Found Here and Here / Antlers found on eBay - Similar Here and Here / Gold + White Antler Wall Sculpture - Target Threshold Brand - this would work beautifully as well.

Oct
09
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Project Details

The Low Loft Bunk Bed Series is hands down our most popular series of project plans to date. Many of you have asked for a queen sized version of this fabulous sleeper and I am finally obliging! Yahoo. I have made a modification to the ladder in this plan, for both the orientation as well as the method of construction, to be more accomodating to adults and to allow for a more compact footprint.

The Deets
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Tools
Lumber
  • 4 - 4x4 at 6' Fence Posts - UNTREATED
  • 2 - 2x6 at 8'
  • 2 - 2x6 at 6'
  • 14 - 2x4 at 8'
  • 15 - 1x4 at 6' - if 8' boards are cheaper, buy those - you will have leftover scrap.
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 at 59" - Legs
  • 2 - 2x6 at 81" - Side Rails
  • 2 - 2x6 at 70" - Head / Foot Rails
  • 2 - 2x4 at 81" - Cleats
  • 4 - 2x4 at 81" - Upper Side Rails and Center Support Joists
  • 4 - 2x4 at 70" - Upper Head / Foot Rails
  • 1 - 2x4 at 59" - Front Guard Rai Ladder Leg
  • 4 - 2x4 at 8 3/4" - Lower Front Guard Rail Ladder Supports
  • 1 - 2x4 at 18" - Upper Front Guard Rail Ladder Supports
  • 2 - 2x4 at 55" - Guard Rail Side Upper Rails
  • 4 - 2x4 at 27" - Ladder Rungs
  • 15 - 1x4 at 67" - Slats
Instructions

**I recommend finishing your boards and posts prior to assembling and simply touching up later. This will make for easier painting and will keep you from having to paint this wherever this piece will actually live (bedroom) since you will have to assemble it in the area it will be placed (at 45 or more inches wide this will not fit through a doorway after it's assembled).

** This plan is designed to accomodate a Queen Sized Mattress at 66" x 80". If your mattress is a different size, you will need to adjust for this by adding or subtracting length to all pieces on the side you are adjusting. For example if your mattress is 68" wide then you will add 2" inches to every single width running dimension on the plans below (Head/Foot pieces). 

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut all 4 Legs to size and then notch out the sections shown in the image on one of the legs. You can use a jig saw, table saw or a circular saw to do this. Then attach the Cleats to the Side Rails using 2" Screws and be sure the bottom of the Side Rail and the Cleat are flush. You 

To attach the Rails to the Legs you will arrange the pieces as shown in the diagram below, making sure to leave 1 1/2" on either side of the ends of the Rails to allow for the Head and Foot Rails later. Clamp together making sure everything is completely square before you proceed. Once square and aligned as needed, you will use a 7/16" Drill Bit and drill through all 3 pieces on each side (the leg, rail and cleat), creating 2 holes on either side for the bolts that will secure this. 

Fasten with your Carriage Bolts and tighten.

Leg Dimensions and Side Rails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 2

Attach the Bed Rail Hardware to the Side Rails. You can secure the Lower Head and Foot Rails to the Legs using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" material and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

** Be sure you place your pocket holes in a location that doesn't interfere with the bed rail hardware. The Head and Foot Rails will sit flush with the outside of the Legs and with the Lower Side Rails. You can also skip pocket holes and use 3" Screws to secure these to the Side Rails if you prefer.

Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" material, to secure the Center Support Joists to the Head and Foot Rails with 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws. Then fasten the Upper Side Rails on one side of your bed (not the side that will have your ladder) to the Back Legs using 3" Screws. 

Upper Side Rails and Support Joists for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 3

Create your Guard Rail Leg Unit. This will be 2 - 2x4's, one long and the other cut into sections with spacing and dimensions as shown in the image. This will hold your ladder rungs later so just be sure that the separation between your shorter ladder supports will actually fit a 2x4 nice and snug. You need to fit it in place but you don't want any wiglle room so a tight fit is better than a slightly loose fit. Attach the Front Upper Side Rails to the Leg using 3" screws and attach to the Guard Rail Leg Unit using 2" Screws. 

Guard Rail Side Rails and Ladder Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 4

Attach the Upper Head Rails on the side opposite where you choose to put the ladder, in my example this would be the left side. Use 3" Screws and secure into the ends of the Upper Side Rails. 

Upper Head Rails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 5

Lay your Slats approximately 2" apart. Be sure the 2 on the outside edges are flush in both corners. Screw down using 1 1/4" Screws or Nails and fasten to both cleats and both support joists. 

Bed Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 6

Attach the remaining 2 upper Foot Rails to the Back Upper Side Rails and the Front Leg using a Pocket hole System (Kreg Jig) set for 1 1/2" materials and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the Rails to the front Leg. To fasten the Foot Rails to the Back Side you can either use Pocket Hole Screws and glue to connect them to the Back Leg or 3" Wood Screws and Glue, with a countersink bit to predrill and secure directly to the end of the Upper Side Rails. 

Slide the Ladder Rungs into place and secure with glue. You can choose to secure with 3" Wood Screws from the legs into the ends of the rungs, but this is optional and you can absolutely secure with glue and call it a day! 

Ladder Rungs and Upper Foot Rails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
25
2014
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches

Wonderful set of plans. Easy to follow. Easy to modify if you need to, as I did in my case. Results are very pleasing.

Estimated Cost 

Eh, about $175, give or take

Length of Time 

About 4 Weekends plus a little after work a few nights for sanding and staining.

Modifications 

Well, there are a couple....

1. I don't like that the crossing legs on both the benches and the table were actually cut in half and attached. Therefore, I cut dado cuts into both cross pieces, glued and screwed them together for added stability.

2. My wife is an Italian and likes to have big meals with lots of peeps. Therefore, I modified the plans to push the table and benches to 8ft long rather than the original plan which is 6ft. I used a little flair in the center of the table to add the additional 2ft and break up the long lines that 8ft boards would have created. In doing so, I had to add some additional bracing on the underside to make it a bit more sturdy to support the extra length. But I didn't have to add a center support leg system.

Lumber Used 

Douglas Fur

Finishing Technique 

I used the same finish as the builder John because I like the way his photos turned out. I was not disappointed in the least. Two coats of Behr transparent weatherproofing all in one finish. Cedar natural tone

Beautiful Sides for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Close Up of Table Top for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Finished Build and Stain for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Opposite Side of The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Fish Eye Wide Angle for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Table Top for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Sep
24
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Project Details

I am so very excited to share this project with you today! You see, we are still in the warmer months out here in Northern California, but it is finally starting to cool down enough that we can actually enjoy some outdoor time. One of my favorite things to do, ever!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$125-$150
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Nail Gun
Lumber
  • 10 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 5 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 10 – 2x3 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 42-1/2” - Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 42-1/2” - Legs
  • 2 – 2x3 at 74” - Bottom Sides
  • 2 – 2x3 at 37” - Bottom Head and Foot
  • 2 – 2x2 at 75” – Outer Slat Supports
  • 2 – 2x3 at 75” – Inner Slat Supports
  • 20 – 1x4 at 39” – Slats
  • 2 – 2x3 at 37” - Top Head and Foot
  • 2 – 2x3 at 74” - Top Sides
  • 2 – 2x3 at 31” Roof Front Rafters
  • 2 – 2x3 at 29 ½” Roof Back Rafters
  • 1 – 2x2 at 74” - Roof Ridge Beam
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

** Notes: This bed will be hard to get through doorways once it is completely built. If you plan this for indoor use, you would be well served to build this in sections and then assemble in place. The sections I would build this in are 2 leg unit/sides: this would be a head and foot leg with side rail and there will be 2 of these for this bed, the floor: this would be the head and foot rails, slat supports and slats, and the roof: both pitches and the roof beam. The instructions below direct you to build these sections in this manner, so rather than attaching each section to the hardware as shown, you will build each section, move into place, and then secure each section to the hardware. Yahoo.

Step 1

Cut the lumber for the four Legs at the appropriate length. Each Leg will be composed of a 2x2 piece and a 2x3 piece. Set your Kreg Jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes as shown at the top of each 2x3 Leg. This will help you secure your roof pieces later.  Attach the 2x2 piece to the 2x3 piece with glue and 2” wood screws. Be sure to countersink for the best result.

Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Sides. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Sides and assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Note that the Bottom Side is attached to the 2x3 portion of the Leg. You will do this two times, once for each side of the project. Take note of the position of the legs here (the 2x3 versus the 2x2). Your second leg unit will mirror this and your pocket hole placement should be facing in toward your 2x2 leg pieces.

Note: The placement of this side rail is a bit subjective and flexible. You can place it higher as shown below if you want store things underneath (like the mattress during play or when not used as bed). If you only plan for one use, feel free to set this piece at 3” up from the bottom.

Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 3

Attach the connectors as shown by using provided screws. They will slide up and support the side rails and should attach where your side rails meet your leg units.

Note the direction of the connectors below. You will place the empty arm of your connector on the side of your leg unit where your 2x2 sits and away from the side rails themselves.

Lower Connectors and Leg units for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Head and Foot Rails and the 2x3 Inner Slat Supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Inner Slat Supports. Attach the Slat Supports to the Bottom Head and Foot with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Center Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 5

Build your floor: Cut the Slats. Note that the first and last Slat will be ½” shorter on each end - this will allow room for the hardware. Attach the Slats to the Inner Slat Supports as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws or you can use your nail gun and 1 1/4" brad nails. The first and last slat will be spaced about 1/8” from the Bottom Head and Foot Rails. The Slats will be spaced between 1/4” from each other.

Slats for Floor for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 6

Cut the 2x2 Outer Slat Supports. Attach the Outer Slats Supports to the Slats as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. (The Slat assembly has been flipped over in this graphic to better show how to line the pieces up.)

Outer Slat Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 7

Now things are really coming together for this piece! Place the slat assembly on top of the Legs/Bottom Sides/Connectors. Attach with provided connector hardware.

Floor Assembly for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 8

Next, attach the Upper Connectors to the Legs with the provided connector hardware. Note that the top of the connector will sit 1/2” above the top of the Legs.

Upper Connectors for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Upper Sides, Head and Foot. Assemble as shown by “nesting” the pieces into the connectors. Secure wood to the brackets by using the provided connector hardware.

Upper Rails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 10

This step will seem a tad tricky, but if you give yourself just a bit of wiggle room in your initial cut for this (2” or so will do it – cut at 33” and 31 ½”), then create your beveled ends and then adjust for length on the top which will be a standard straight cut, you will be just fine!

To create your beveled ends, you will lay your board flat and set against your fence, then tilt your saw blade to a 45⁰ angle. Note that tilt in this context does not mean turn but actually tilt. Your cut angle (the miter) will remain at 0 or 90⁰ depending on how your saw reads.

Make your first bevel cut, then flip the board over to the back side and made a second bevel cut 5/8” from the pointed edge. This will create a flat surface for your pitch to sit and will then carve off enough point to allow it to rest right inside your upper brackets!

Roof Pitch for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 11

The Roof Beam is simply a 2x2 that runs between your two A-Frame Roof Lines. You will connect all pieces as you see above, using the provided connector hardware, however this beam might also benefit from pocket hole screws on either end to secure it to the pitch in a secondary manner. The connector hardware will be plenty strong, but since we are using the hardware in a non-traditional manner here and it isn’t sitting underneath the beam, it never hurts to give your joints a bit of that something extra, just in case your kiddos get monkey bar bound!

Securing the Roof Ridge for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 12

To secure your roof section to your legs, fasten in place with those pocket holes you created in the legs early on! You can also secure from the top down into the legs using a countersink bit and 2” Wood Screws if you prefer. Just be sure to do this on the widest portion of leg unit you can so it doesn’t split apart your 2 boards that form those leg units or split your wood.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

TDC 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
23
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Project Details

I am so excited to share this simple multi function project plan with you guys! Part Side Table, part Magazine or anything you like storage and sheer gorgeous piece of furniture and easy to build plans! This Magazine Sling Side Table seems like it would blend seamlessly with any style of decor and is something even a non-sewing gal like myself could handle! Get your saw ready and make some sawdust fly on this beauty! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$50-$75
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at – 2’x2’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 18-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 15-1/2” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 2x4 at 23-1/2” – Front and Back Aprons
  • 1 – 2x4 at 15-1/2” – Top Support
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 13-1/2”x15-1/2” – Table Top
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 2”x15-1/2” – Sling Supports
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Legs and Side Aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Side Aprons. Secure Side Aprons to the Legs as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Repeat this step twice, once for each side of the Table.

Attach the Short Apron with Pocket Hole Screws using the Kreg Jig for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Front and Back Aprons. Drill pocket screws in each end of the Aprons. Attach the Aprons to the Legs as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of the Table as shown in the sketch.

Front and Back Aprons using the Kreg Jig for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 3

Cut the Top Support. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top Support. Attach the Top Support to the Front and Back Aprons as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the same direction as shown in the sketch.

Center Support for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 4

Cut the piece for the Table Top. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill holes on the underside of the Table Top on all sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. The Table Top will sit 1/2” below the Aprons. Make sure that the pocket holes face the ground as shown in the sketch.

Attach the Table Top for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 5

Now it’s time to cut the Sling fabric! Cut your fabric as shown. Turn under long edges of the Sling 1/2”, iron, and then turn it under another 1/2” and iron again. Repeat this process with the short edges of the Sling.

To secure the edges of the fabric, you can use iron-on adhesive, fabric glue, or sew the edges.

Making the Sling for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Fabric Sling Pattern for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Sling Supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Sling Supports. Don’t attach just yet!

Place one of the short ends of the Sling under the Sling Support. Attach the Sling Support with 2-1/2” pocket screws as shown to the Front and Back Aprons. The Sling end should extend 1/2” below the Sling Support. To further avoid the Sling from slipping out of the Sling Support when weighed down with magazines, screw the Sling Support to the adjacent Side Apron with 1-1/4” wood screws.

Sling Supports for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Sling Pattern and Directions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 7

Repeat the same process for the other Sling Support. Let the Sling hang down into the opening.

Now all you have to do is grab a seat and a magazine… and relax!

Finished Build for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
17
2014
The Design Confidential Real Reader Showcase // Francine Dining Chair!

Plans worked great and very sturdy. Made with only a jig saw, kreg jig, and power drill.

I'm a complete amateur and was easily able to make this chair. The plans are completely accurate and the chair turned out great! Might have to build some more to make a set!

Estimated Cost 

$30.

Length of Time 

I took my sweet time making this so my time frame isn't very accurate.

Lumber Used 

Pine.

Finishing Technique 

Stain and polyurethane.

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