Sep
25
2014
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches

Wonderful set of plans. Easy to follow. Easy to modify if you need to, as I did in my case. Results are very pleasing.

Estimated Cost 

Eh, about $175, give or take

Length of Time 

About 4 Weekends plus a little after work a few nights for sanding and staining.

Modifications 

Well, there are a couple....

1. I don't like that the crossing legs on both the benches and the table were actually cut in half and attached. Therefore, I cut dado cuts into both cross pieces, glued and screwed them together for added stability.

2. My wife is an Italian and likes to have big meals with lots of peeps. Therefore, I modified the plans to push the table and benches to 8ft long rather than the original plan which is 6ft. I used a little flair in the center of the table to add the additional 2ft and break up the long lines that 8ft boards would have created. In doing so, I had to add some additional bracing on the underside to make it a bit more sturdy to support the extra length. But I didn't have to add a center support leg system.

Lumber Used 

Douglas Fur

Finishing Technique 

I used the same finish as the builder John because I like the way his photos turned out. I was not disappointed in the least. Two coats of Behr transparent weatherproofing all in one finish. Cedar natural tone

Beautiful Sides for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Close Up of Table Top for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Finished Build and Stain for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Opposite Side of The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Fish Eye Wide Angle for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Table Top for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Sep
24
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Project Details

I am so very excited to share this project with you today! You see, we are still in the warmer months out here in Northern California, but it is finally starting to cool down enough that we can actually enjoy some outdoor time. One of my favorite things to do, ever!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$125-$150
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Nail Gun
Lumber
  • 10 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 5 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 10 – 2x3 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 42-1/2” - Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 42-1/2” - Legs
  • 2 – 2x3 at 74” - Bottom Sides
  • 2 – 2x3 at 37” - Bottom Head and Foot
  • 2 – 2x2 at 75” – Outer Slat Supports
  • 2 – 2x3 at 75” – Inner Slat Supports
  • 20 – 1x4 at 39” – Slats
  • 2 – 2x3 at 37” - Top Head and Foot
  • 2 – 2x3 at 74” - Top Sides
  • 2 – 2x3 at 31” Roof Front Rafters
  • 2 – 2x3 at 29 ½” Roof Back Rafters
  • 1 – 2x2 at 74” - Roof Ridge Beam
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

** Notes: This bed will be hard to get through doorways once it is completely built. If you plan this for indoor use, you would be well served to build this in sections and then assemble in place. The sections I would build this in are 2 leg unit/sides: this would be a head and foot leg with side rail and there will be 2 of these for this bed, the floor: this would be the head and foot rails, slat supports and slats, and the roof: both pitches and the roof beam. The instructions below direct you to build these sections in this manner, so rather than attaching each section to the hardware as shown, you will build each section, move into place, and then secure each section to the hardware. Yahoo.

Step 1

Cut the lumber for the four Legs at the appropriate length. Each Leg will be composed of a 2x2 piece and a 2x3 piece. Set your Kreg Jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes as shown at the top of each 2x3 Leg. This will help you secure your roof pieces later.  Attach the 2x2 piece to the 2x3 piece with glue and 2” wood screws. Be sure to countersink for the best result.

Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Sides. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Sides and assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Note that the Bottom Side is attached to the 2x3 portion of the Leg. You will do this two times, once for each side of the project. Take note of the position of the legs here (the 2x3 versus the 2x2). Your second leg unit will mirror this and your pocket hole placement should be facing in toward your 2x2 leg pieces.

Note: The placement of this side rail is a bit subjective and flexible. You can place it higher as shown below if you want store things underneath (like the mattress during play or when not used as bed). If you only plan for one use, feel free to set this piece at 3” up from the bottom.

Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 3

Attach the connectors as shown by using provided screws. They will slide up and support the side rails and should attach where your side rails meet your leg units.

Note the direction of the connectors below. You will place the empty arm of your connector on the side of your leg unit where your 2x2 sits and away from the side rails themselves.

Lower Connectors and Leg units for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Head and Foot Rails and the 2x3 Inner Slat Supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Inner Slat Supports. Attach the Slat Supports to the Bottom Head and Foot with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Center Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 5

Build your floor: Cut the Slats. Note that the first and last Slat will be ½” shorter on each end - this will allow room for the hardware. Attach the Slats to the Inner Slat Supports as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws or you can use your nail gun and 1 1/4" brad nails. The first and last slat will be spaced about 1/8” from the Bottom Head and Foot Rails. The Slats will be spaced between 1/4” from each other.

Slats for Floor for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 6

Cut the 2x2 Outer Slat Supports. Attach the Outer Slats Supports to the Slats as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. (The Slat assembly has been flipped over in this graphic to better show how to line the pieces up.)

Outer Slat Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 7

Now things are really coming together for this piece! Place the slat assembly on top of the Legs/Bottom Sides/Connectors. Attach with provided connector hardware.

Floor Assembly for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 8

Next, attach the Upper Connectors to the Legs with the provided connector hardware. Note that the top of the connector will sit 1/2” above the top of the Legs.

Upper Connectors for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Upper Sides, Head and Foot. Assemble as shown by “nesting” the pieces into the connectors. Secure wood to the brackets by using the provided connector hardware.

Upper Rails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 10

This step will seem a tad tricky, but if you give yourself just a bit of wiggle room in your initial cut for this (2” or so will do it – cut at 33” and 31 ½”), then create your beveled ends and then adjust for length on the top which will be a standard straight cut, you will be just fine!

To create your beveled ends, you will lay your board flat and set against your fence, then tilt your saw blade to a 45⁰ angle. Note that tilt in this context does not mean turn but actually tilt. Your cut angle (the miter) will remain at 0 or 90⁰ depending on how your saw reads.

Make your first bevel cut, then flip the board over to the back side and made a second bevel cut 5/8” from the pointed edge. This will create a flat surface for your pitch to sit and will then carve off enough point to allow it to rest right inside your upper brackets!

Roof Pitch for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 11

The Roof Beam is simply a 2x2 that runs between your two A-Frame Roof Lines. You will connect all pieces as you see above, using the provided connector hardware, however this beam might also benefit from pocket hole screws on either end to secure it to the pitch in a secondary manner. The connector hardware will be plenty strong, but since we are using the hardware in a non-traditional manner here and it isn’t sitting underneath the beam, it never hurts to give your joints a bit of that something extra, just in case your kiddos get monkey bar bound!

Securing the Roof Ridge for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 12

To secure your roof section to your legs, fasten in place with those pocket holes you created in the legs early on! You can also secure from the top down into the legs using a countersink bit and 2” Wood Screws if you prefer. Just be sure to do this on the widest portion of leg unit you can so it doesn’t split apart your 2 boards that form those leg units or split your wood.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
23
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Project Details

I am so excited to share this simple multi function project plan with you guys! Part Side Table, part Magazine or anything you like storage and sheer gorgeous piece of furniture and easy to build plans! This Magazine Sling Side Table seems like it would blend seamlessly with any style of decor and is something even a non-sewing gal like myself could handle! Get your saw ready and make some sawdust fly on this beauty! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$50-$75
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at – 2’x2’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 18-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 15-1/2” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 2x4 at 23-1/2” – Front and Back Aprons
  • 1 – 2x4 at 15-1/2” – Top Support
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 13-1/2”x15-1/2” – Table Top
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 2”x15-1/2” – Sling Supports
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Legs and Side Aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Side Aprons. Secure Side Aprons to the Legs as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Repeat this step twice, once for each side of the Table.

Attach the Short Apron with Pocket Hole Screws using the Kreg Jig for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Front and Back Aprons. Drill pocket screws in each end of the Aprons. Attach the Aprons to the Legs as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of the Table as shown in the sketch.

Front and Back Aprons using the Kreg Jig for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 3

Cut the Top Support. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top Support. Attach the Top Support to the Front and Back Aprons as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the same direction as shown in the sketch.

Center Support for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 4

Cut the piece for the Table Top. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill holes on the underside of the Table Top on all sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. The Table Top will sit 1/2” below the Aprons. Make sure that the pocket holes face the ground as shown in the sketch.

Attach the Table Top for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 5

Now it’s time to cut the Sling fabric! Cut your fabric as shown. Turn under long edges of the Sling 1/2”, iron, and then turn it under another 1/2” and iron again. Repeat this process with the short edges of the Sling.

To secure the edges of the fabric, you can use iron-on adhesive, fabric glue, or sew the edges.

Making the Sling for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Fabric Sling Pattern for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Sling Supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Sling Supports. Don’t attach just yet!

Place one of the short ends of the Sling under the Sling Support. Attach the Sling Support with 2-1/2” pocket screws as shown to the Front and Back Aprons. The Sling end should extend 1/2” below the Sling Support. To further avoid the Sling from slipping out of the Sling Support when weighed down with magazines, screw the Sling Support to the adjacent Side Apron with 1-1/4” wood screws.

Sling Supports for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Sling Pattern and Directions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 7

Repeat the same process for the other Sling Support. Let the Sling hang down into the opening.

Now all you have to do is grab a seat and a magazine… and relax!

Finished Build for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
17
2014
The Design Confidential Real Reader Showcase // Francine Dining Chair!

Plans worked great and very sturdy. Made with only a jig saw, kreg jig, and power drill.

I'm a complete amateur and was easily able to make this chair. The plans are completely accurate and the chair turned out great! Might have to build some more to make a set!

Estimated Cost 

$30.

Length of Time 

I took my sweet time making this so my time frame isn't very accurate.

Lumber Used 

Pine.

Finishing Technique 

Stain and polyurethane.

Sep
03
2014
Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet

I needed something to fill this empty space in my kitchen and the Clara Buffet was perfect! For this project, I chose to use oak, a red stain with brown and black accents, and brushed nickel hardware.

As always, thank you to TDC for the great plans and thanks for reading! Also, check out my blog post (link below) for a lot more build pictures and thoughts on each building step!

Here are images of the piece mostly assembled without the doors or drawers. As you can see, everything has already been finished to avoid tight corners. Drilling the space for the door hinges...this was nerve racking! As you can see I taped around the area to avoid any damage to the rest of the finish. This plus the flange on the hinge hid any defects. You can see the gusset  I added to the top inside edge of the side panels (see modifications section). This is what I secured the top with on the edges and it worked great.

Assembly with shelves and drawer frames added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Gusset added to top inside edge of side panels to screw down the top from the beneath for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
I bought a kit/template for drilling these holes which was a lifesaver for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

Lumber was right over $200. Hardware, drawer slides, hinges, and staining materials were probably another $150 bringing the total to $350. Still a steep discount to the original!

Length of Time 

This is hard to estimate, but I'd say 20+ hours because of all the finishing work. Actual cutting and assembly of the piece was MUCH short and could probably be done in a weekend.

Modifications 

I made a few modifications to the plans for multiple reasons:

Shelves:

First, I eliminated the top set of shelves since they really only serve to enclose the space where the drawers go. Instead I used 1x2's to mimic the front edge of where the top shelves would have been. This provided rigidity to the piece and kept the look the same. 

Second, I had to slice off 3/4" from the indicated depth for the main shelves in the plans. Reason being, the plans call for the shelves to be set back this distance so that the doors can close but all four shelf pieces are dimensioned for the entire depth of the cabinet on the cut sheet.

Legs:

The plans call for 4x4's on the legs but I chose to try and recreate the original legs as closely as possible utilizing hardwood. This was for asthetics only and the original plans could be used with no issues here.

Top Connection:

I realized during assembly that I had not predrilled vertical pocket holes in the side panels to attach the top. Fortunately I had two 3/4" wide pieces of stained/finished plywood that I had sliced off the back of the shevles. I used these as gussets on the top inside edge of the side panels to secure the top from beneath which worked great.

Lumber Used 

As mentioned before, I used oak for almost every piece in the project besides the back for which I used birch plywood, the drawer boxes which are pine, and a couple of non-visible cross braces which are also pine.

Oak is a different animal working with but I really enjoyed the results. Make sure your cordless drills have good batteries! This stuff will eat up a battery real quick!

Finishing Technique 

The finish here was not difficult, but takes time. It consisted of red gel stain, brown glaze, black glaze, and final lacquer with sanding sealer sprayed on between each step. All stains and glazes were brushed on and wiped off.

I chose to prefinish all the individual pieces before assembly to avoid difficulties with tight corners. This had advantages and disadvantages; The former being that we achieved a very uniform and professional finish on the entire piece. Disadvantages to this technique include difficulties surrounding utilization of pocket hole plugs (see my blog), needing a very large space in order to stage all the pieces while drying, and needing to be careful during assembly. 

Gel Stain Added - Kind of red right now!..Glaze to the rescue for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Weighing down the back with all the panels to get the bend out of the plywood! for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Phew that's better; Brown and Black Glazes Added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Drawers and drawer slides added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Final assembled piece with all hardware added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Final assembled piece in new space for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Aug
30
2014
Reader Showcase // Two Toned Chaise Lounge for FFA Fair DIY Outdoor Kreg Jig Project Plans from Wood using Pocket Hole Screws

I found the plans for your chaise lounge chair and I started constructing it for my FFA fair, for a project that will be judged and showcased.

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 
Length of Time 
Modifications 
Lumber Used 
Finishing Technique 
Additional Project Details 
Reader Showcase // Two Toned Chaise Lounge for FFA Fair DIY Outdoor Kreg Jig Project Plans from Wood using Pocket Hole Screws
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