Sep
17
2014

Plans worked great and very sturdy. Made with only a jig saw, kreg jig, and power drill. I'm a complete amateur and was easily able to make this chair. The plans are completely accurate and the chair turned out great! Might have to build some more...

Sep
03
2014
Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet

I needed something to fill this empty space in my kitchen and the Clara Buffet was perfect! For this project, I chose to use oak, a red stain with brown and black accents, and brushed nickel hardware.

As always, thank you to TDC for the great plans and thanks for reading! Also, check out my blog post (link below) for a lot more build pictures and thoughts on each building step!

Here are images of the piece mostly assembled without the doors or drawers. As you can see, everything has already been finished to avoid tight corners. Drilling the space for the door hinges...this was nerve racking! As you can see I taped around the area to avoid any damage to the rest of the finish. This plus the flange on the hinge hid any defects. You can see the gusset  I added to the top inside edge of the side panels (see modifications section). This is what I secured the top with on the edges and it worked great.

Assembly with shelves and drawer frames added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Gusset added to top inside edge of side panels to screw down the top from the beneath for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
I bought a kit/template for drilling these holes which was a lifesaver for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

Lumber was right over $200. Hardware, drawer slides, hinges, and staining materials were probably another $150 bringing the total to $350. Still a steep discount to the original!

Length of Time 

This is hard to estimate, but I'd say 20+ hours because of all the finishing work. Actual cutting and assembly of the piece was MUCH short and could probably be done in a weekend.

Modifications 

I made a few modifications to the plans for multiple reasons:

Shelves:

First, I eliminated the top set of shelves since they really only serve to enclose the space where the drawers go. Instead I used 1x2's to mimic the front edge of where the top shelves would have been. This provided rigidity to the piece and kept the look the same. 

Second, I had to slice off 3/4" from the indicated depth for the main shelves in the plans. Reason being, the plans call for the shelves to be set back this distance so that the doors can close but all four shelf pieces are dimensioned for the entire depth of the cabinet on the cut sheet.

Legs:

The plans call for 4x4's on the legs but I chose to try and recreate the original legs as closely as possible utilizing hardwood. This was for asthetics only and the original plans could be used with no issues here.

Top Connection:

I realized during assembly that I had not predrilled vertical pocket holes in the side panels to attach the top. Fortunately I had two 3/4" wide pieces of stained/finished plywood that I had sliced off the back of the shevles. I used these as gussets on the top inside edge of the side panels to secure the top from beneath which worked great.

Lumber Used 

As mentioned before, I used oak for almost every piece in the project besides the back for which I used birch plywood, the drawer boxes which are pine, and a couple of non-visible cross braces which are also pine.

Oak is a different animal working with but I really enjoyed the results. Make sure your cordless drills have good batteries! This stuff will eat up a battery real quick!

Finishing Technique 

The finish here was not difficult, but takes time. It consisted of red gel stain, brown glaze, black glaze, and final lacquer with sanding sealer sprayed on between each step. All stains and glazes were brushed on and wiped off.

I chose to prefinish all the individual pieces before assembly to avoid difficulties with tight corners. This had advantages and disadvantages; The former being that we achieved a very uniform and professional finish on the entire piece. Disadvantages to this technique include difficulties surrounding utilization of pocket hole plugs (see my blog), needing a very large space in order to stage all the pieces while drying, and needing to be careful during assembly. 

Gel Stain Added - Kind of red right now!..Glaze to the rescue for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Weighing down the back with all the panels to get the bend out of the plywood! for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Phew that's better; Brown and Black Glazes Added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Drawers and drawer slides added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Final assembled piece with all hardware added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Final assembled piece in new space for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Aug
30
2014
Reader Showcase // Two Toned Chaise Lounge for FFA Fair DIY Outdoor Kreg Jig Project Plans from Wood using Pocket Hole Screws

I found the plans for your chaise lounge chair and I started constructing it for my FFA fair, for a project that will be judged and showcased.

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 
Length of Time 
Modifications 
Lumber Used 
Finishing Technique 
Additional Project Details 
Reader Showcase // Two Toned Chaise Lounge for FFA Fair DIY Outdoor Kreg Jig Project Plans from Wood using Pocket Hole Screws
Note
Aug
12
2014
Reader Showcase // A Swingset for Two

Just finished the frame! Thanks for the plans! Easy build for the wife to do.

Finished Swingset Frame for Reader Showcase // A Swingset for Two
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 
Length of Time 
Modifications 

 I also plan in building a canopy of some sort for the top. The only improvement I would recommend is to point out where the bolts to secure the top rail should go. You might have said and I probably just missed it. That and I used cedar 4x4s and they measure 3 3/4 where I think your plans went off a 3 1/2 wide 4x4. I'm gonna wrap a 3 inch tall peice of copper around the bottom to protect when mowing and such. 

Lumber Used 

Used all cedar and have several ideas for a canopy! Thank you once again

Finishing Technique 
Additional Project Details 
Enjoying the Swing in Reader Showcase // A Swingset for Two
Note
Aug
11
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Project Details

I figure after posting the plans for the Modern Adirondack Chair last week, you might indeed like to have plans for the matching ottoman! And so... I give you precisely such a thing! Yahoo... Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$25-$50
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Tools
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 17-1/4” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 1x4 at 22-1/4”– Front and Back Aprons
  • 2 – 1x4 at 14-1/2” – Back Legs
  • 5 – 1x4 at 23-3/4” – Top Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 13-1/4” – Front Legs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out your Side Aprons. You will need 2 of these exactly the same. This diagram shows you how to mark out the shape you need for the Side Aprons. Use your circular saw to cut this out. If you simply connect the dots between the dimensions outlined below and use a circular saw to make these cuts, you won't have to worry about the actual angle for each corner

Dimensions for the Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Step 2

Cut out the Back Apron and attach as shown to the Side Aprons with glue and pocket screws. When you attach the Back Apron, align the corners noted with the top of the Side Aprons. This alignment is a little trick so that you don’t have to rip your lumber at funky angles! It will hardly be noticeable.

Back Apron for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Back Apron Detail for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Step 3

Cut out the Front Apron and attach as shown to the Side Aprons with glue and pocket screws. On both ends of the Front Apron, align the corners noted with the top of the Side Aprons.

Front Apron for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Front Apron Detail for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Step 4

Cut and attach the Back Legs as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails. Align the top of the Back Legs with the corners noted of the Side Aprons.

Back Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Step 5

Cut and attach the Top Slats to the tops of the Front, Back and Side Aprons with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails. The slats should be spaced 1/4” from each other, with approximately a 3/4” overhang past the Front Apron to later attach the Front Legs. Please note that the Top Slat toward the back of the ottoman will float slightly above the Back Legs. 

Top Slat for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Top Slat Detail for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Step 6

Cut and attach the Front Legs as shown with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails. Align the tops of the Front Legs with the noted areas of the Top Slat.

Front Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Aug
07
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Project Details

It's time for our little to head back to school and for those who are elementary age and above, this generally means it's time to hit the books. It seems as though a desk is an ideal piece to add to your handmade DIY furniture collection and this particular beauty is mighty fine speciman. Not too traditional, not too rustic, just the right amount of clean and streamlined... that means you should have no problem with competing styles when you add this baby to your home and hardware is completely up for grabs! Gotta love a versatile piece, don't you think? Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – quarter sheet (2’ x 4’) of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 23-3/4” – Side Panels
  • 4 – 1x2 at 44” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 44” – Back Panel
  • 1 – 1x2 at 3-3/4” – Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 45” - Top
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19” – Top Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 48” – Top Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Slide Spacers (Sides)
  • 1 – 2x2 at 19-1/4” – Drawer Slide Spacer (Center)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 18-3/4” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 20-1/4” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 21-13/16” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Secure the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panels will be flush with the outside face of the frame pieces.

Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Constructing the Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame and panels. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Secure the frame pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panel will be flush with the outside face of the frame pieces.

Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attaching the Back with a Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Desk Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 4

Cut the piece for the center divider. Secure to the front stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Desk Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the top. Secure the sides to the top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then secure the longer trim pieces in the same manner.

Position the top so that the back is flush with the back of the desk, and the sides and front overhang by ½”. Fasten in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Construct the Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Attach the Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the drawer slide spacers. Secure the 1x2 side pieces using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Secure the center 2x2 using glue and countersunk screws through the divider and back into the spacer.

Drawer Slide Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. . For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

drupal counter