Traditional

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

I'm really excited for this modular collection of pieces! I pretty much love anything that can be mixed and matched for a custom look and these Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Olivia Modular Components for the Bench are the beginnings of exactly that! yahoo... Xx Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x2 at6’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood, if desired
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 22-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/2” x 51-1/4” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 51-1/4” – Top & Bottom
  • 3 – 1x2 at 12-1/2” – Bottom Supports
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 20-1/4” – Dividers
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 12-1/2” – Shelves
  • 3 – 1x2 at 51-1/4” – Front Aprons
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the back. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position the bottom ¾” up from the bottom edge of the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Attach as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The dividers will be ¾” shorter than the sides. 

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as the back edge. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Also use pocket hole screws through the holes in the top of the dividers into the underside of the top.

Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the front aprons. Attach to the front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws. 

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Bookcase

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One piece of trim at 3-1/2” wide by 16”
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 14-1/2” – Kick Plate
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 18-3/4” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 20-1/4” – Top
  • 1 – 3-1/2” trim at 16” – Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece.

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end then attach to the lower front edge using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge and secure to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the upper sides and back. The top will overlap by ¾”.

Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the piece for the trim then attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Joss & Main Foxton Bar & Game Table

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • 4” hole saw
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 3’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 3 pieces of trim (at least 4” wide) at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the exposed edges of the plywood, optional
  • 4’ Continuous hinge for top
  • 2 pairs of hinges for supports
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 53-1/4” – Base Frame
  • 5 – 1x4 at 22-3/4” – Base Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 24-1/4” x 54-1/4” – Base Top
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 34-1/2” – Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 34-1/2” x 50-1/4” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 15” – Shelves
  • 2 – 1x4 at 15” – Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x4 at 17-1/4” – Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7” x 15-3/4” – Wine Rack
  • 4 – 1x2 at 12” – Wine Rack Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 12” – Supports
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 53-1/4” – Top
  • 2 – trim pieces for top – cut to size
  • 1 – trim piece for top front – cut to size
  • 2 – trim pieces for base sides – cut to size
  • 2 – trim pieces for base front & back – cut to size
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the base top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long end. Attach to the base as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the bottom edge. Attach to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws then secure to the base through the pocket holes in the bottom edge.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the sides as well as the back edge. Attach to the dividers and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the wine rack. For the bottle supports, drill holes using a 4” hole saw across the center of the main piece, then cut the piece in half. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece and attach to the 1x2 supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position in the center cubby of the bar and attach to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the supports. Attach hinges to the back of each piece, then attach the hinges to the bar back.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the top. Both top pieces will overhang all sides by 1”. Attach the continuous hinge to the front edge, then attach the hinge to the second top piece. The second top piece will fold over the first top piece then fold out onto the supports to play games!

Step 9
Step 9
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the trim. Measure and cut the side pieces first, then attach with 1-1/4” brad nails. Measure and cut the front piece, and attach in the same manner.
Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Emerson Secretary Chest. This piece is so fantastic that I think I need one right this second!

Ps...I hope you will join us for the remaining giveaways we have going on, and stay tuned for the winner announcement for the Home Depot Gift cards from PureBond!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 4 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 2 – Baseboard or Casing Trim at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • One set of hinges
  • One set of drop front supports (like these for writing surface)
  • Two magnetic catches
  • 6 sets of 10” drawer slides
  • Drawer pulls or handles for the drawers and writing surface
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 53-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 58-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 24-3/8” x 58-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 58-1/2” – Center Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 12-1/4” – Bottom Support
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 23-1/4” – Dividers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 18” – Side Shelves
  • 2 – 1x2 at 53-1/4” – Front Frame
  • 1 – 1x4 at 57” – Front Frame
  • 1 – 1x2 at 57” – Front Frame
  • 1 – 1x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 57” – Front Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19-3/4” – Front Frame
  • 1 – 1x2 at 24” – Front Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Front Frame
  • 4 – 1x2 at 27-3/4” – Front Frame
  • 6 – 1x2 at 11-1/2” – Drawer Slide Supports
  • 3 – 2x2 at 11-1/2” – Drawer Slide Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 61-1/2” – Top
  • 4 – trim at 13” – Side Trim
  • 2 – trim at 61-1/2” – Front Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 20-3/4” – Writing Surface
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 25-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 12 – 1x6 at 9-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 12 – 1x6 at 26-3/4” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 27-1/2” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece as well as the top edge of the side pieces. Attach the bottom to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes around all four edges of each piece as shown. Secure the pieces to each other using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the back to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the center shelf. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as one of the long edges for the back. Attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holes.

Cut the piece for the bottom support. Drill pocket holes in one long edge. Secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge for the back. Attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holes.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge for the back. Attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holes.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the sides. Start with the longest horizontal pieces as shown in the first drawing and attach them to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the pieces shown in the second drawing as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the pieces as shown in the third drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the entire frame assembly to the front of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The tops of the frame pieces at the side shelves and the center shelves should be flush with the tops of the shelves.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x2 pieces only. Attach to the center of the drawer area on the frame (as well as to the back) using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the 1x2 drawer slide supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

The bottom edge of the supports should be even with the top edge of the frame pieces (see the drawing).

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. The sides and front will overlap by ¾”. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the underside.

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower trim. Attach the side pieces first, then attach the front pieces using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Cut the piece for the writing surface. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides. Attach the hinges to the bottom of the surface to the cabinet according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Attach the drop-front supports to the sides of the opening and the writing surface according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Attach the magnetic catches to the inside of the top of the writing surface.

Step 9
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Attach the bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the front and back of the drawer boxes. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, <a href="http://designsbystudioc.com/how-to-install-drawer-slides/">click here</a>. Make any necessary adjustments.
Step 10
Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides. For another easy tutorial, click here. Install the drawer hardware.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Emerson Secretary Chest
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Cabinet with Two Glass Doors! This would be fabulous on it's own or as a base to a desk or shelves!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Router with 3/8” rabbeting bit
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One piece of trim at 3-1/2” wide by 16”
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 2 - sets of hinges
  • 2 door pulls
  • Glass or Plexiglas for doors
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 29-1/4” x 29-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 28-1/2” – Kick Plate
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 18-3/4” x 29-1/2” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” x 31” – Top
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 25-1/8” – Door Frame
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 10-7/16” – Door Frame
  • 1 – 3-1/2” trim at 31” – Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece.

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end then attach to the lower front edge using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge and secure to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the upper sides and back. The top will overlap by ¾”.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the door frames. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using the router and the rabbeting bit, rout the inside of the door frames (on the back) to allow for the glass.

Another option for attaching the glass would be to use glass clips to secure the glass to the back of the door frame (with no rabbet) but the shelves will need to be shortened to allow for the thickness of the glass and the clips.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the piece for the trim then attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Land of Nod Inspired Debutante Vanity and Bench.

Psst... we will be back in just a bit to kick off our amazing week of giveaways! yay! Stay tuned and check back here for those details and for the first giveaway reveal and entry!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Router with flush-cutting bit
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’
  • One half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • 14” drawer slides
  • Drawer pull
  • Mirror and clips
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 24-1/4” - Legs
  • 2 – 1x4 at 14” – Side Aprons
  • 1 – 1x4 at 26” – Back Apron
  • 2 – 1x4 at 6” – Front Aprons
  • 2 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Drawer Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 30” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 14” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 1x3 at 14” – Drawer Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 13” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 1 – 1x4 (ripped to 3-3/8” wide) at 15” – Drawer Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 29” – Mirror Frame
  • 2 – 1x4 at 6” – Mirror Frame Sides
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 13” x 18-1/2” – Bench Seat
  • 2 – 1x4 at 14-1/2” – Bench Aprons
  • 2 – 1x4 at 9” – Bench Side Aprons
  • 4 – 2x2 at 15-1/4” – Bench Legs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the apron piece. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The aprons will be centered on the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back apron.  Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back apron will also be centered on the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front aprons and drawer supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer supports as well as one end of the front apron. Attach the drawer support to the apron using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. There will be a left and a right piece. Attach each assembly to the sides and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the vanity using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the legs, aprons, and supports. The front and sides will overlap by ½”.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the front and back in the same manner. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the drawer front. For another easy tutorial, click here.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the mirror frame and sides. Cut the arcs using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the bottom edge of the mirror frame and in the sides as shown. There will be a left and right side piece. Attach the sides to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the entire frame to the vanity top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the mirror as shown using a glass cutter. Attach to the back side of the frame using mirror clips.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the sides of the bench. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron pieces and attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The aprons will be centered on the legs.

Step 9
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the longer aprons. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron pieces and attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The aprons will be centered on the legs.
Step 10
Step 11

 

Cut the piece for the seat. The seat will overlap the frame by ½” on all sides. Secure to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Land of Nod Inspired Debutante Vanity and Bench
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Bar Components – Grid Hutch!

Psst... don't forget to join us here on Monday for the Really Big Giveaway kickoff! I know I usually only post once on Fridays, but I will be back in just a bit with a fabulous holiday DIY project for you all.. yahoo...

Tune in with me over the weekend on Facebook for a few sneak peaks at our giveaway prize packages for next week!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • One half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One full sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 34-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 7-3/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 7-3/4” x 29-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 34-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 18” - Top
  • 3 – ½” plywood at 12” x 33-1/2” – Grid
  • 7 – ½” plywood at 12” x 16” – Grid
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shorter pieces.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.

Attach the shorter side frame pieces to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel s should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.

Attach the side panel assemblies to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top edge. Attach to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes on the side edges, as well as the back edge. Attach to the side frames and the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. The front edge will overlap by 1”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the top edge of the back and side panels.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the grid. Use a jigsaw to cut the notches as shown. Assemble and insert into the cabinet, then attach using 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the grid pieces.

Step 5
Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Bar Components – Grid Base

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • One full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One full sheet of ½” plywood
  • Piece of 3-1/2” trim at 18”
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1” screws
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • One set of 10” drawer slides
  • 2 – drawer pulls
  • 2 – 1” x 1” x 1/8” angle at 11”
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 35-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 7-3/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 7-3/4” x 29-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 35-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3” x 16-1/2” – Kick Plate
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16-1/2” – Upper Shelf & Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 18” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 14”- Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 10-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-15/16” x 16-1/4” – Drawer Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16-1/4” – Pullout
  • 1 – 3-1/2” piece of trim at 18” - Trim
  • 3 – ½” plywood at 12” x 25” – Grid
  • 5 – ½” plywood at 12” x 16-1/2” – Grid
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shorter pieces.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.

Attach the shorter side frame pieces to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel s should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.

Attach the side panel assemblies to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top edge. Attach to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the kick plate and the stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the upper shelf & bottom. Drill pocket holes on the side edges, as well as the back edge. Attach to the side frames and the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. The front edge will overlap by 1”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the top edge of the back and side panels.

Step 4
Step 5

Attach the angle inside above the upper shelf as shown using countersunk screws.

Cut the piece for the pullout. The pullout will rest on the metal angles.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the drawer assembly to the front as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. The drawer should be positioned so that there is a 1/8” gap around all sides of the front.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the trim. Attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the grid. Use a jigsaw to cut the notches as shown. Assemble and insert into the cabinet, then attach using 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the grid pieces.

Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Bar Components – Shelf Hutch. The perfect topper for this piece...

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • One half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One quarter sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 34-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 7-3/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 7-3/4” x 29-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 34-1/4” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16-1/2” – Shelf & Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 18” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shorter pieces.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.

Attach the shorter side frame pieces to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel s should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.

Attach the side panel assemblies to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top edge. Attach to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelf and the bottom. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge of each piece. Attach to the sides and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. The front edge will overlap by 1”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the top edge of the back and side panels.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Bar Components – Cabinet Base

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • One full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One half sheet of ½” plywood
  • Piece of 3-1/2” trim at 18”
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1” screws
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • One set of hinges
  • 3 – drawer pulls
  • 2 – 1” x 1” x 1/8” angle at 11”
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 35-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 7-3/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 7-3/4” x 29-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 35-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3” x 16-1/2” – Kick Plate
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16-1/2” – Upper Shelf & Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 16-1/2” – Center Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 18” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 14”- Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 10-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-15/16” x 16-1/4” – Drawer Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16-1/4” – Pullout
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 24-3/4” – Door Frame
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 11-1/4” – Door Frame
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 11-1/4” x 19-3/4” – Door Panel
  • 1 – 3-1/2” piece of trim at 18” - Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shorter pieces.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.

Attach the shorter side frame pieces to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel s should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.

Attach the side panel assemblies to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top edge. Attach to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the kick plate and the stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the upper shelf & bottom. Drill pocket holes on the side edges, as well as the back edge. Attach to the side frames and the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center shelf. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge. The shelf will be set back ¾” from the front edge of the cabinet.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. The front edge will overlap by 1”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the top edge of the back and side panels.

Step 4
Step 5

Attach the angle inside above the upper shelf as shown using countersunk screws.

Cut the piece for the pullout. The pullout will rest on the metal angles.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the drawer assembly to the front as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. The drawer should be positioned so that there is a 1/8” gap around all sides of the front.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the door frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces.

Cut the piece for the door panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach the shorter door frame pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.

Attach the panel assembly to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions and make any necessary adjustments.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the trim. Attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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