Feb
03
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this cute doored cabinet is a fabulous addition to your space, especially if you have items to store and display. Can't wait to see what you all do with your own variations! The doors can be made with plywood, glass or plexi depending on your preference! Yahoo. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 half sheet of ¼” plywood - or this can be glass or plexi depending on the type of cabinet you would like to build! 
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 piece of ¾” x ¾” x 8’ trim
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 35-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 29-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1x2 at 36” – Back Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 30-1/4” x 36” – Back Panel
  • 1 – 2x2 at 36” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 36” – Front Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 36” – Shelf & Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 41” - Top
  • Trim for top cut to fit
  • 4 – 1x2 at 29-1/4” – Door Stiles
  • 6 – 1x2 at – 14-13/16” – Door Rails
  • 4 – 1x2 at 12-3/8” – Door Frame
  • 2 – ¼” plywood or glass or plexi at 15-13/16” x 27-1/4” – Door Backing
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper as shown using a jigsaw, bandsaw, or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Cut the pieces for the side frames and panels. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting for the thicknesses of the materials, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Attach the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.  Attach the entire assembly to the legs using glue and pocket hole screws – 2-1/2” through the upper frame pieces and 1-1/4” through the lower frame pieces.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame and panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece as well as all four edges of the panel. Attach the frame pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.  Attach the entire assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end (with the pocket hole jig set for the appropriate material setting). Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the upper stretcher and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the lower stretcher.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the shelf. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom, and the sides and back of the shelf. Secure the bottom to the lower stretcher and frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the shelf as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. The sides and front will overhang by 1”. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the trim. No measurements are given because it will depend on the type of trim used. Install the side pieces first, then install the front. Secure using glue and 1” brad nails. 

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the door frames and drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the backing or have glass or plexi cut to size. The pieces will overlap the opening in the frame by ½” on all sides. Secure using glue and 5/8” brad nails or mirror clips.

Step 7

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides as well as in between. Install the cabinet pulls. 

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post contains affilliate links

Jan
27
2014
Project Image
Project Details

There is something so lovely about open shelving that looks at first glance as though it might actually be something else entirely, don't you think? If you need a bit of extra storage in a small area, like your bathroom, or perhaps want to display cute items rather than storing books and such, this piece is the perfect solution! I can't wait to see the variations we get with this! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • ¾” holesaw or paddle bit
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – ¾” dowel at 3’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1 sets of non-mortise hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 65” – Shorter Side Legs
  • 5 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” – Shorter Side Rungs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 75-1/4” – Taller Side Legs
  • 2 – ¾” dowels at 14-1/2” – Upper Rungs (Taller Side)
  • 5 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” – Taller Side Rungs
  • 5 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 13-1/4” – Tray Bottoms
  • 5 – 1x3 at 12” – Tray Back
  • 10 – 1x3 at 14” – Tray Sides
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the shorter side legs. Draw the arc at the top edge of each leg using a compass or a soup can, then cut out using a jigsaw or bandsaw.

Cut the pieces for the shorter side rungs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the taller side legs. Cut a 10 degree angle in the bottom of each leg, and cut the arc using a jigsaw or bandsaw to match the shorter side legs.

Use a ¾” holesaw or paddle bit to cut a ½” deep hole in two places at the top of each leg noting that there will be a right leg and a left leg. Cut two pieces of the dowel rod at 14-1/2” and glue the dowels in the holes of each leg.

Cut the pieces for the rungs. The rungs will be positioned at a 10 degree angle. Measure up 4-1/2” from the front edge of the legs as well as the back edge, and draw a line to connect the two marks. Position the first rung along this line and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Space the remaining rungs accordingly and secure them in the same manner as the first rung.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Install the hinges on each leg assembly as shown.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the trays. Attach the back piece to the back edge of the tray using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Draw the arc on the side pieces using a compass or soup can then cut using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Secure the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Position each of the trays on the rungs with the back edge flush with the back edge of the shorter side rungs. Secure using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
17
2013
Reader Showcase: Ecarps Finished Louis No Sew Custom Bar Stool

Here it is - after many weekends of the finished wood sitting on my work bench, it's been assembled and enjoyed.

Estimated Cost 

Raw materials, including new belt sander and a jig saw, were about $300 for 4 stools, including foam.

Length of Time 

From start to finish, 8 weeks, but true build time is about 7 days.

Modifications 

We opted for a ladder back to keep light and unobstructed views.

Lumber Used 

Hearthy Pine, we couldn't find 2" x 4", so we used 2" x 12" and cut it into thirds to make the rear legs.

Finishing Technique 

Putty, 80 grit, 120 grit, 200 grit, belt and palm sander, one coat of Sherwin Williams stain, one coat of polyurethane, sand again with 200 grit palm sander and one final coat of polyurethane.

Dec
15
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build an Up Against the Wall Paper Holder . Will work with the rolls of paper from Land of Nod, Ikea and any other standard sized rolls. Another fabulous and budget friendly project in our Handmade Holiday Decor and Gifts series and one that should get a lot of use regardless of age and is versatile enough to attach to the wall or can be secured to a desk top for hours of artistic play! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x6 at 4’
  • 1 – ¾” dowel at 3’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 1 – 1x6 (ripped to 5” wide) at 20” – Back
  • 2 – 1x6 (ripped to 3-1/2” wide) at 3-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – 1x6 (ripped to 4-1/4” wide) at 20” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” dowel at 24”
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of the piece.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the ends. Use a 1” paddle bit or hole saw to bore a hole in each piece. Cut the radius using a jigsaw. Secure the side pieces to the back using countersunk 2” screws from the back.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the shelf. Secure to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the dowel rod. For extra security, use a pair of wood balls or wood candle cups (from a craft or hobby store) to cover the ends of the dowel so it doesn’t slip out.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Kiddos 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
09
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Large Hutch. There are only a few pieces left before we finish out the Original Office Collection, and you guys will be able to customize till you drop! I can't wait to see how you mix and match to arrange your own pieces! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 full sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood edges, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Feet
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 43-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 73-1/2” - Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 40-3/4” x 73-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 73-1/2” – Long Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 28-3/4” - Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 36-3/8” – Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 36-3/8” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 77” – Top
  • 2 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Side Trim
  • 1 – 1x2 at 76-1/2” – Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

 Cut the pieces for the sides and feet. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each side. Attach the feet to the bottom using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The side pieces will be positioned at the center of each foot.

Step 1
Step 2

 

 Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the piece for the long shelf and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 4
Step 5

 

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

 Cut the piece for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretcher will be flush with the outside edge of the sides.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

 

 Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overlap by 1”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the sides and back.

Step 7
Step 8

 

Cut the pieces for the trim. Rout a decorative edge along one long edge of each piece if desired. Position the sides first and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front in the same manner. A mitered corner will be used if routing a decorative edge. Adjust the length of the sides accordingly. Store-bought trim can also be used.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Nov
26
2013
DIY Benchwright Coffee Table

I was in need of a coffee table and loved these plans! Once again, many thanks for the hard work put into creating the plans and a great resource to view them!

Overall the build was very straightforward and the piece turned out extremely solid (I don't think it looks too shabby either!)

There were a few bumps along the way with finishing and one modification I had to make to the plans to accomodate the drawer slides but I'll talk about those in a minute. Thanks for reading!

Here is the back view of the piece. I read in the comments section prior to building about interest in a pull-through drawer design. I thought about doing this and don't think it would have been difficult, but I will say that the 1x6's add a ton of sturdiness to the frame so I'm happy with the direction I went. (P.S. interested in what all you design-y people think I should do for accent pillows in the background…I struggle in that department!)

Top view; I really think the bread boards give it the necessary rustic look. Great design!

Here is the assembled unit prior to finishing. I really liked the character in the pine pieces for the top even without any finish!

Here is the assembled base without the top or drawer slide supports. Notice the vertical pocket holes in the 1x6's pointing towards the top. I drilled these prior to assembly and they were a BIG help with attaching the top during final assembly.

Estimated Cost 

Lumber was right at $100, finishing materials another $75-100. Drawer guides, hardware, and some 2 1/2" pocket screws added another ~ $50. All in all roughly $225-250 is still almost a 70% cost savings.

Length of Time 

I became slightly obsessed and had a marathon assembly night, which resulted in assembling most of the thing in one evening. Prior to that however, there was quite a bit of time spent cutting lumber, sanding each piece, and drilling the endless number of pocket holes. All in all the build probably took 15 hours from raw lumber to an assembled piece. The finish took a lot longer from start to ...err 'finish' because of drying times and the research we had to do to overcome some issues (see below). I'd say another 10 hours of labor was put into the finish. That estimate is an attempt to include the prep time and cleanup of the spray equipment which makes up the bulk of that time.

Modifications 

As I mentioned before, I had to modify the plans to accommodate the drawer slides. The original plans call for 2x2's to be mounted on the inside of the outer 4x4's and on either side of the middle 4x4's. This didn't leave enough width on my piece to mount the drawer slides so I sliced off 1/2" from each drawer slide support to make the pieces right at 1" (2x2's are actually 1 1/2" x 1 1/2"). After this modification, the dimensions were perfect! 

Lumber Used 

I used pine for everything besides the drawer slide supports which were cedar. The only reason for this was that the big box stores had some really nice 2x2's in cedar and I opted for straight lumber. The frame pieces and bottom shelf are all made of FSC certified Premium Pine. I used this for the outdoor Chesapeake Sectional Unit and really liked the results so I went with it again. You can get this from either big box store (blue or orange). The top and legs are made of Number 2 Pine. My dad and I spent a significant amount of time digging through the pallets at the store to find clean pieces and I think it paid off.

Finishing Technique 

Ah the finish...as I mentioned up top, this is where we ran into some bumps. Before I start though, huge shout out to my dad who put in a TON of work with the spray equipment and troubleshooting the issues we ran into. Thanks a ton!

The stain is Mohawk Special Walnut and is lacquer based. I brushed this on after assembly with a china bristle brush. I did keep the base and top separate at this step, but if I were to do it again I think I'd pre-stain as many pieces as possible prior to assembly. All the corners and joints made it hard to achieve an even finish. As a matter of fact, I had to sand down the top after putting on the stain for the first time because it dried unevenly...extremely disheartening but worth the extra work to do it over.

Next we utilized a trick we learned from our local paint shop. Because the project used Number 2 Pine and Premium Pine pieces, the wood took the stain very differently. To combat this, we mixed sanding sealer with a bit of stain and lacquer thinner then sprayed the entire piece in varying amounts. This served two purposes; the first was to shade the different wood to even out the finish and the second was to seal in the stain before the next step.

After the first coat of sanding sealer came a coat of Van Dyke Brown Glaze over the entire piece. This was wiped on with old t-shirt rags. We wiped off the excess, let it dry then sprayed the entire piece again with sanding sealer only this time.

After each coat of sanding sealer dried we very lightly sanded with 220 or 320 grit sandpaper and wiped with a clean rag.

Finally, the entire piece was sprayed with lacquer. I think the base received 2 coats and the top 3. After the first coat went on everything looked beautiful. We let it dry overnight and came back the next morning to find a milky white haze had developed over everything. After consulting with our paint shop again, they said high humidity had caused water vapor to be trapped under the lacquer.

Luckily for us they had a solution which revolved around adding a retarding agent to the lacquer and re-coating the piece. The retarding agent causes the lacquer to dry slower and the water vapor to escape. Also, the lacquer was chemically hot enough to melt through the first layer. This plus some light sanding between each coat fixed everything right up! Huge learning experience which is always good!

DIY Benchwright Coffee Table
DIY Benchwright Coffee Table
DIY Benchwright Coffee Table
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