Traditional

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

If you need something fabulous for your furry friends this holiday season, then this Free DIY Furniture Plan to Build a Town Haus Inspired Doggie Den is just the thing for you!

Psst... If you would like to celebrate the holidays a tad early with a full week of giveaways, from me (and some lovely sponsors) to you, then please check in daily for more information and a giveaway schedule... I would hate for you to miss out on the fun! Xx...Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • One half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 – 1x2 at 3’
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 2 pieces of ½” trim at 6’
  • 2 pieces of 2-1/2” trim at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • 1 – Cupboard catch
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Decorative punched aluminum
  • Turnbuttons and screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 - 1x3 at 25-3/4” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 24-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 1x6 at 24-1/2” –Side Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 11” x 24-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/2” x 25-3/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/2” x 28-3/4” – Bottom
  • 1 – 1x2 (ripped to 1” wide) at 23-1/2” – Upper Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x3 (ripped to 2-1/4” wide) at 23-1/2” – Lower Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x3 at 18-1/4”- Door Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 at 21-1/2” – Door Frame
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 26” x 30-1/2” – Top
  • 2 – ½” trim at 30” – Upper Trim
  • 2 – ½” trim at 26” – Upper Trim
  • 2 – 2-1/2” trim at 30” – Lower Trim
  • 2 – 2-1/2” trim at 26” – Lower Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shorter 1x3 pieces and the 1x6 piece.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.

Attach one set of the shorter side frame pieces to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the 1x6 pieces in the same manner. The back face of the panels should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.

Attach the side panel assemblies and the remaining 1x3 frame pieces to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top edge. Attach to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the bottom. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge. Attach to the sides and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the door frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces.

Cut the piece for the door panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.

Attach one set of the shorter side frame pieces to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.

Attach the door frame assembly to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments so that the door has a 1/8” gap around all sides in the opening. Install the cupboard catch.

If desired, cut and attach the decorative aluminum in the opening using the turnbuttons and screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. The edges will overlap by 1/2”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into back and side panels, as well as the upper stretcher.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the trim. Attach the side pieces first, using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front and back pieces.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
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Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Sarah Shoe Storage

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 4’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 86” – Sides
  • 9 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 25” – Shelves & Cubbies
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 76” – Dividers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 25” – Trim
  • 4 – 1x4 at 7-1/2” – Trim
  • 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 26-1/2” x 77-1/2” – Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides and the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shelf pieces. Set seven of the shelf pieces off to the side for the cubbies. Attach the shelves to the sides at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the trim. Cut a fancy curve or design of your choice in the 1x4 pieces and attach to the 1x2 with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The face of the trim pieces will be flush with one of the edges of the 1x2.

Attach the trim assembly to the cabinet top and bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the notches in the shelves for the cubbies as shown with a jigsaw. Attach to the sides at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw. Attach to the cabinet with glue at the spacing indicated and add a few brad nails through the shelf into the dividers.

Step 5
Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Bouclier Hutch

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 1 – ¼” x 1” flat trim
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Half sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” angle brackets with screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 39-1/2” – sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 35-3/4” – Front Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 55-1/4” – Header
  • 1 – ¼” x 1” at 55-1/4” – Header Trim
  • 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 39-1/2” x 55-1/4” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 53-3/4” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” at 11-1/4” x 56-3/4” – Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides and the front trim. Attach the front trim at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The outside face of the trim will be flush with the outside face of the sides. There will be a right and a left.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the header and the header trim. Attach the header trim to the front trim with glue and a couple of brad nails through the top of the trim. The trim will overlap the sides of the front trim by ¼” on each side.

Attach the header with glue and brad nails through the front of the header into the sides. Add a few brad nails through the header trim into the header to secure it in place.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the piece for the back. Attach to the sides with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of each of the shelves. Attach to the sides as indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Add a few brad nails through the back into the shelves to further secure the back.

If a hole for electronics cords is desired, the hole can be bored in the back using a paddle bit or a hole saw.

 

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the top. The top will overlap the front and sides by ¾”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides and the header.

Secure the hutch to the desk with angle brackets on each side.

 

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Bouclier Desk

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • Half sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 3 sets of 20” drawer slides
  • 5 – drawer knobs or handles
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 23” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 53” – Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 9” x 24-1/2” – Drawer Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” – 24-1/2” – Drawer Shelf Sides
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 18-1/2”” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 24-1/2” x 33-1/2” – Center Drawer Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 26-3/4” x 57-1/2” - Top
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 8”– Small Drawer Boxes Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood 4” x 32-1/2” at – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2 x 20” – Larger Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 8-1/2” – Larger Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 8” x 20” – Smaller & Larger Drawer Bottoms
  • 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 20” x 32-1/2” – Center Drawer Bottom
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-5/8” x 8-3/4” – Smaller & Larger Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at ¾” x 8-3/4” – Larger Drawer Filler Piece
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-5/8” x 33-1/4” – Center Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle in the legs as shown using a jigsaw. The angles will face to the inside of the desk.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Cut the notch as shown and drill pocket holes. Attach to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the left side drawer shelf. Drill pocket holes in one long edge of the middle shelf. Drill pocket holes in both long edges of the lower shelf as well as at the back edge of the larger side piece. It will be easier to assemble these pieces to each other before attaching to the desk. Use glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws to attach the side piece and lower shelf to the desk. The middle shelf can be attached to the side panel with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the side panel into the shelf.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the right side drawer shelf. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown and attach to the back and side panels with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the center drawer shelf. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The center shelf will be level with the drawer shelf on the left side.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the top piece into the side and back panels.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket hole screws in each end of the side pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the drawer fronts. For the larger drawer front, the ¾” filler will need to be glued between the two drawer fronts as a sort of “false piece” to balance out the look of the drawer fronts.  Pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Demilune Bath Shelf

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
Lumber
  • 3 – 2x2 at 6’
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • 4 – 8” angle brackets
  • 8 - 4" or 5" angle brackets
  • Spray paint to match finish (for brackets, optional)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  3 – 2x2 at 47-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16” – Shelves
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut the notches and the curve using a jig saw. Apply edge banding, if desired.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Attach the shelves at the spacing shown using corner brackets. Three brackets per shelf will be used.

Step 2
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Abington Cabinet

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • Full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • Scrap of ¼” plywood at least 16” x 31-1/2”
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 8 ft. baseboard trim
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • One set of 16” drawer slides
  • Two sets of hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾”plywood at 17-3/4” x 40-3/4”- Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 32-1/2” x 40-3/4” Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 35”- Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 32-1/2” – Bottom & Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 32-1/2” – Kick Plate
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 32-1/2” – Shelf
  • 4 – 1x3 at 11-1/16” – Door Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 30” – Door Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 11-1/16” x 25” – Door Panels
  • 2 – 1x4 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box
  • 2 – 1x4 at 31-1/2” – Drawer Box
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 16” x 31-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 32-1/4” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – baseboard trim at 17-3/4” – Side Trim
  • 1 – baseboard trim at 35” – Front Trim

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge.

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in each side edge as well as the top edge. Attach to the side pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top will overlap by ½” at the front and sides.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the bottom and divider. Drill pocket hole screws in the sides and one long edge of each piece. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach from the underside using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in the sides as well as one long edge for the back. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the shelf ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the door frames. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the door frame using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. The back side of the door panel should be flush with the back side of the frame.

Attach the hinges – there will be a 1/8” gap on all sides of the doors as well as in the center.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Don’t forget to set the Kreg jig back to ¾” material! Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Attach to the drawer box using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the drawer front. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. For another easy tutorial, click here.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the trim. Attach the side pieces first using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front in the same manner.

Step 9
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Restoration Hardware Inspired Pocket Desk Chair! I have actually loved this chair for a long time and I'm super excited to share plans with you today!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 - 2x4 at 6'
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • Scrap of 1x2 at 12”
  • 1 – 1x4 at 2’
  • ¾” plywood at 2’ x 2’
Materials
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x4 at 24” – Back Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 16-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 11-1/2” – Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 14” – Aprons
  • 2 – 2x2 at 14-11/16” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x2 at 11-1/2” – Center Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x3 (ripped to 1-3/4” wide) at 11-1/2” – Back Slats
  • 1 – 1x2 at 11-1/2” – Upper Back Slat
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 17” – Seat
  • 2 – 1x3 (ripped to 2” wide) at 4-7/8” – Pocket Sides
  • 1 – 1x4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 11-1/2” – Pocket Bottom
  • 1 – 1x4 at 13” – Pocket Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the front legs. Draw the pieces for the back legs on the 2x4 and cut out using a jigsaw or a band saw.

Cut the pieces for the aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the lower and center stretchers. Cut the angles as shown in the ends of the side stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the back slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the 1x2 slat first. The outside face of this slat will be flush with the top of the back legs. Orient the pocket holes so they are facing down and attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Drill pocket holes in each end of the wider slats. The front face of these slats will be flush with the front face of the legs. Attach using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws!

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the seat. Attach to the chair using glue and 1-1/2” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the pocket sides. Cut the angles as shown and drill pocket holes in the longer ends. Attach to the back legs as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the pocket bottom. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the pocket back. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 5
Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Kids Inspired My First Table and Chairs and another fabulous project request! 

 

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber

**Materials/cut list for one table and two chairs**

  • 1 – 2x3 at 4’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 3’
  • 1 – ¾” square dowel at 3’
  • One quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 3x3 posts at 3’
Materials

**Materials/cut list for one table and two chairs**

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

**Materials/cut list for one table and two chairs**

  • 4 – 2x3 at 10-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 4 – 2x4 at 21” – Back Legs
  • 8 – 1x3 (ripped to 1-3/4”) at 8” – Seat Aprons
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8” – Back Slats
  • 4 – ¾” x ¾” dowels at 8” – Lower Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-5/8” x 11” – Seat
  • 4 – 3x3 posts at 16-3/4” – Table Legs
  • 4 – 1x3 (ripped to 1-3/4”) at 17” – Table Aprons
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 24” – Table Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Draw out the legs for the chairs on the lumber and cut out with a jigsaw. Clamp the pieces together and sand as one unit.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the seat aprons and rip to 1-3/4”. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers from the ¾” square dowels. Drill a pocket hole in each end and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

 

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the back slats. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the slats will lay parallel to the angle on the front of the chair legs.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the seats. Cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw. Attach to the chairs using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the seat into the legs and aprons.

 

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the 3x3 posts to length. Cut the pieces for the table aprons and rip to 1-3/4” wide. Drill pocket holes in each end, as well as one long edge of each apron to attach the top. Attach to the posts using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The aprons will be set back ¼” from the outside edge of each leg.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes in the long edges of the aprons into the underside of the top.

 

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a RH Baby & Child Inspired Vintage Farmhouse Crates with Plans for all three sizes!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber

For the Large crate:

  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 9 – ½” x 2 at 3’
  • 2 – ¼” x 2 at 3’
  • Scrap of ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 22-1/2”

For the Medium crate:

  • 2 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 5 – ½” x 2 at 3’
  • 1 – ¼” x 2 at 3’
  • 1 – ¼” x 2 at 2’
  • Scrap of ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 18-1/2”

For the Small crate:

  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 3 – ½” x 2 at 3’
  • 1 – ¼” x 2 at 3’
  • Scrap of ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 14-1/2”
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 5/8” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” angle brackets
  • Two handles for each crate
  • Jute rope to wind around slats
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

For the Large crate:

  • 4 – 1x3 at 14” – Frame
  • 4 – 1x2 at 14” – Side Frame
  • 4 – 1x3 at 19” – Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 10-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Bottom
  • 28 – ½” x 2  at 9” – Slats
  • 2 – ¼” x 2 at 10-1/2” – Side Trim
  • 2 – ¼” x 2 at 19” –Trim

For the Medium crate:

  • 4 – 1x3 at 12” – Frame
  • 4 – 1x2 at 12” – Side Frame
  • 4 – 1x3 at 15” – Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 18-1/2” – Bottom
  • 22 – ½” x 2  at 7” - Slats
  • 2 – ¼” x 2 at 8-1/2” – Side Trim
  • 2 – ¼” x 2 at 15” –Trim

For the Small crate:

  • 4 – 1x3 at 10” – Frame
  • 4 – 1x2 at 10” – Side Frame
  • 4 – 1x3 at 11” – Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 6-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Bottom
  • 16 – ½” x 2  at 5” - Slats
  • 2 – ¼” x 2 at 6-1/2” – Side Trim
  • 2 – ¼” x 2 at 11” –Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x3 pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the slats. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes at each end. There will be ½” spacing between each slat. Attach to the frames using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Assemble the frames using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes and attach to the frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Orient the bottom so that the pocket holes face down.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the trim. Attach to the slats using glue and 5/8” brad nails. Add 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” angle brackets to the outer top as desired.

Attach handles to the upper sides. If cloth handles are preferred, use cotton belting, cut to length, and attach to the inside of the slats (at the center) using screws and washers.

Wind jute rope around slats as desired.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Bouclier Coffee Table

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8’
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 19” – Legs
  • 5 – 1x2 at 29” – Frames & Support
  • 4 – 1x2 at 40-3/4” – Frames
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 29” x 40-3/4” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 33-1/2” x 45-1/4” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, apply to the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle as shown in each leg. The angles will face to the inside of the table.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the frames and support. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of each piece. Attach the frame pieces to the legs as shown with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the support as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes as indicated. Attach inside the lower frame with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. It will overlap the legs by ¾” on all sides. Attach using glue and countersunk   1-1/4” screws through the bottom of the upper frame into the top.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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