May
12
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Project Details

By Special Reader Request, this fabulous DIY furniture plan for building your own storage accessory tower is a lovely budget friendly solution that is just perfect for keeping all of your odds and ends, your craft supplies, maybe your jewelry, or socks, bathing suits and the like. All I see is drawers galore and I go crazy for organization and orderly goodness! Do you crave this in your lives right now too? Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Tools
Lumber
  • 7 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 4’
  • 1 sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 3” trim at 8’
  • Scraps of 1x material at 24”
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 42-1/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x4 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 17-7/8” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2”x 42-1/4” - Back
  • 9 – 1x2 at 20-1/2” - Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x4 at 20-1/2” - Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 24-3/4” - Top
  • 2 – 3” trim at 14-1/2” – Lower Side Trim
  • 1 – 3” trim at 24-1/2” – Lower Front Trim
  • 9 – ¼” plywood at 12” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 14 – 1x2 at 10-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Frame
  • 14 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Frame
  • 4 – 1x8 (ripped to 5-3/4” wide) at 10-1/2” – Larger Drawer Frame
  • 4 – 1x8 (ripped to 5-3/4” wide) at 19-1/2” – Larger Drawer Frame
  • 11 – 1x3 at 20-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 1x material (ripped to 7/8” wide) at 20-1/4” Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side stretchers, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side stretchers.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each panel. Secure the stretchers to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the back face of the stretchers.

Secure the side assemblies to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the stretchers into the legs, and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the panels into the legs.

Constructing the Sides for the Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back and drill pocket holes in each longer side. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the back will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Building the Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x4 stretcher. Secure the 1x2 stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the 2x4 stretcher to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attaching the Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang by ½” at the sides and front. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Fastening the Top in Place for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the trim. No dimension is given for the side pieces – it will depend on if it will be a flush cut or a miter cut. Secure the sides first, then cut and secure the front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Nail the Trim in Place for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end f the drawer box side pieces. Assemble the drawer frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms and secure them to each frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front face of the legs. 

Tower Small Drawer Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Tower Small Drawer Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Tower Large Drawer Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Tower Large Drawer Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

For the larger drawers fronts, start by shimming the lower piece in place with a 1/8” gap between the 1x3 piece and the stretcher. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Place the 7/8” piece above the 1x3 piece with a 1/8” gap, and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Place the remaining 1x3 piece above the 7/8” piece with a 1/8” gap, and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Repeat for the other large drawer.

Installing the Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Mar
31
2014
Project Details

I hope you all had such a lovely weekend! I have been working on such a crazy project for the last several weeks and I'm finally almost ready to share it with you guys. I'm sore, and bruised, and it's going to be soooo amazing! Yahoo! So today's plan is a reader request for a simple wardrobe for storing supplies! Yay, we can all use that, especially me. Only perhaps what I really need is to simply get rid of some of my supplies because they reached hoarder status a long time ago. Ugh. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 24 x 34-1/2” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 24 x 68” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 34-1/2” x 66-1/2” - Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/16” x 66-1/4” - Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the cabinet. The cabinet can be secure in one of two ways – by using a Kreg jig and drilling pocket holes or by using countersunk 2-1/2” screws. If using pocket holes, set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each shorter end of the top and bottom pieces. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

If using the countersunk screw method, drill countersunk holes along each shorter edge of the sides. Secure the top and bottom using glue and 2-1/2” countersunk screws.

Step 2

 Cut the piece for the back. If using the pocket hole screw method, drill pocket holes in all four edges of the back. Position the piece inside the cabinet then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

If using the countersunk screw method, drill countersunk holes along the back edges of the cabinet. Position the back inside, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” screws.

Step 3

 Install the closet rod according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, cutting it to fit (if necessary) using a hacksaw. The rod will be positioned approximately 5” down from the inside of the top.

Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” cap around all sides of the doors in the opening as well as in between them. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls on the doors.

Step 5

 Install the casters according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Mar
28
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this plan is a great one for adding that extra bit of storage when you prefer to go vertical rather than horizontal. Sometimes horizontal wall space is at a premium... especially if you live in my house. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 7 – 1x6 at 8’
  • Scrap of 2x2 at 15-3/4”
  • 3 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  •  4 – 4x4 posts at 46-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x4 at 13” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 13” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 40-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 10 – 1x2 at 13” – Drawer Spacers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 35” x 42-3/4” - Back
  • 5 – 2x4 at 35” - Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x4 at 6-1/2” – Center Drawer Divider
  • 1 – 1x4 at 35” – Upper Stretcher
  • 1 – 2x2 at 15-3/4” – Center Drawer Spacer
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 42” - Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 16-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 12 – 1x6 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1x6 at 15-3/4” – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 32-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 8 – 1x6 at 34” – Large Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/4” x 16-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Fronts
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 34-3/4” – Large Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x4 frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x4 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Secure the frame pieces to the legs, then secure the panel to the legs and the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the panels will be located 1” back from the outside face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the spacers (the side with the pocket holes) will be flush with the inside of the legs.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each shorter edge. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 3

Cut the 2x4 pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the drawer divider and drill pocket holes in the lower end only. Secure to the uppermost stretcher as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the 1x4 piece for the upper stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the upper stretcher into the top of the drawer divider to further secure them in place.

Cut the 2x2 piece for the center drawer spacer. Drill pocket holes in one end only of the 2x2 inner frame piece. Secure to the drawer divider using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the back end of the 2x2 frame piece. The bottom of the drawer spacer will be flush with the top of the stretcher.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the desk frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top. 

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Mar
12
2014
Project Details

I have been wanting a bar cart for a long time, haven't you? If I can't have my vintage dream, which it seems I can't, a handbuilt beauty is perhaps an even better option since I get the satisfaction of making it! The cart can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal if you wish, and it would be so dreamy in brass, don't you think? Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 8 – ¾” square dowels at 3’ (or pieces ripped from a 1x board)
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’ (or 2 – 2x4 ripped in half)
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 27-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 30-1/2” – Legs
  • 1 – 2x2 at 23” - Handle
  • 4 – 2x2 at 20” – Leg Frames
  • 2 – 2x2 at 34-1/2” - Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 34-1/2” – Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” square dowels at 20” - Rails
  • 2 – ¾” square dowels at 34-1/2” - Rails
  • 28 – ¾” square dowels at 5” - Spindles
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well the top edge of the longer legs. Do not drill pocket holes in the handle piece. Attach the frame pieces to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the handle to the longer legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the end frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each piece. Secure to the stretchers and frame pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers and frame pieces.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the rails. Drill one pocket hole in each end of the longer pieces. Mark the position for the spindles on the longer pieces, then secure the spindles using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Mark the position for the spindles on the stretchers and frame pieces. Secure the rail assemblies to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Align the spindles with the marks on the stretchers and frame pieces, then secure them using toenailed 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5

Attach the casters to the bottom of the legs according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial on installing casters, click here.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

//Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. //Post contains affiliate links

Feb
12
2014
Project Details

A bookshelf that has a few drawers is a good looking bookshelf indeed. Not to mention it helps you store and hide those things that are cluttery and not so pretty to display, yahoo! If you want to browse through some of our other plans for bookshelves, we have tons and tons! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x10 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x10 at 8’
  • 4 – 2x3 at 8’ (or 4 – 2x4 ripped down to 2-1/2” wide)
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 – 4’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 4’ x 8’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 43-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 9” x 39-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 4 – 2x3 at 44” – Front Stretchers
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/4” x 44” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 38-1/2” x 44” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 48” - Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 41-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x10 at 10-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x10 at 43” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 43-3/4” – Drawer Front Base
  • 4 – ¼” plywood at 5-7/16” x 21-13/16” – False Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along the long edges of each panel. Secure the panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Position on the front as shown securing with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along all four edges of each panel. Secure the shelves to the front stretcher and cabinet sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers.

Step 4

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes along the 38-1/2” edges. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then secure the shelves to the back using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Position the top so that the front and sides overhang by ½” secured with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them 1” back from the front edge of the legs. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Position the ¼” false drawer fronts on the ¾” base so they are flush with the edges with a 1/8” gap between them. Secure in place with glue and ½” brad nails. Clamps may also be used to hold them in place until the glue dries. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. 

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

/ Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

/ This post may contain affiliate links.

Feb
03
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this cute doored cabinet is a fabulous addition to your space, especially if you have items to store and display. Can't wait to see what you all do with your own variations! The doors can be made with plywood, glass or plexi depending on your preference! Yahoo. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 half sheet of ¼” plywood - or this can be glass or plexi depending on the type of cabinet you would like to build! 
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 piece of ¾” x ¾” x 8’ trim
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 35-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 29-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1x2 at 36” – Back Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 30-1/4” x 36” – Back Panel
  • 1 – 2x2 at 36” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 36” – Front Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 36” – Shelf & Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 41” - Top
  • Trim for top cut to fit
  • 4 – 1x2 at 29-1/4” – Door Stiles
  • 6 – 1x2 at – 14-13/16” – Door Rails
  • 4 – 1x2 at 12-3/8” – Door Frame
  • 2 – ¼” plywood or glass or plexi at 15-13/16” x 27-1/4” – Door Backing
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper as shown using a jigsaw, bandsaw, or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Cut the pieces for the side frames and panels. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting for the thicknesses of the materials, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Attach the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.  Attach the entire assembly to the legs using glue and pocket hole screws – 2-1/2” through the upper frame pieces and 1-1/4” through the lower frame pieces.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame and panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece as well as all four edges of the panel. Attach the frame pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.  Attach the entire assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end (with the pocket hole jig set for the appropriate material setting). Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the upper stretcher and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the lower stretcher.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the shelf. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom, and the sides and back of the shelf. Secure the bottom to the lower stretcher and frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the shelf as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. The sides and front will overhang by 1”. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the trim. No measurements are given because it will depend on the type of trim used. Install the side pieces first, then install the front. Secure using glue and 1” brad nails. 

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the door frames and drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the backing or have glass or plexi cut to size. The pieces will overlap the opening in the frame by ½” on all sides. Secure using glue and 5/8” brad nails or mirror clips.

Step 7

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides as well as in between. Install the cabinet pulls. 

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post contains affilliate links

drupal counter