Nov
26
2013
DIY Benchwright Coffee Table

I was in need of a coffee table and loved these plans! Once again, many thanks for the hard work put into creating the plans and a great resource to view them!

Overall the build was very straightforward and the piece turned out extremely solid (I don't think it looks too shabby either!)

There were a few bumps along the way with finishing and one modification I had to make to the plans to accomodate the drawer slides but I'll talk about those in a minute. Thanks for reading!

Here is the back view of the piece. I read in the comments section prior to building about interest in a pull-through drawer design. I thought about doing this and don't think it would have been difficult, but I will say that the 1x6's add a ton of sturdiness to the frame so I'm happy with the direction I went. (P.S. interested in what all you design-y people think I should do for accent pillows in the background…I struggle in that department!)

Top view; I really think the bread boards give it the necessary rustic look. Great design!

Here is the assembled unit prior to finishing. I really liked the character in the pine pieces for the top even without any finish!

Here is the assembled base without the top or drawer slide supports. Notice the vertical pocket holes in the 1x6's pointing towards the top. I drilled these prior to assembly and they were a BIG help with attaching the top during final assembly.

Estimated Cost 

Lumber was right at $100, finishing materials another $75-100. Drawer guides, hardware, and some 2 1/2" pocket screws added another ~ $50. All in all roughly $225-250 is still almost a 70% cost savings.

Length of Time 

I became slightly obsessed and had a marathon assembly night, which resulted in assembling most of the thing in one evening. Prior to that however, there was quite a bit of time spent cutting lumber, sanding each piece, and drilling the endless number of pocket holes. All in all the build probably took 15 hours from raw lumber to an assembled piece. The finish took a lot longer from start to ...err 'finish' because of drying times and the research we had to do to overcome some issues (see below). I'd say another 10 hours of labor was put into the finish. That estimate is an attempt to include the prep time and cleanup of the spray equipment which makes up the bulk of that time.

Modifications 

As I mentioned before, I had to modify the plans to accommodate the drawer slides. The original plans call for 2x2's to be mounted on the inside of the outer 4x4's and on either side of the middle 4x4's. This didn't leave enough width on my piece to mount the drawer slides so I sliced off 1/2" from each drawer slide support to make the pieces right at 1" (2x2's are actually 1 1/2" x 1 1/2"). After this modification, the dimensions were perfect! 

Lumber Used 

I used pine for everything besides the drawer slide supports which were cedar. The only reason for this was that the big box stores had some really nice 2x2's in cedar and I opted for straight lumber. The frame pieces and bottom shelf are all made of FSC certified Premium Pine. I used this for the outdoor Chesapeake Sectional Unit and really liked the results so I went with it again. You can get this from either big box store (blue or orange). The top and legs are made of Number 2 Pine. My dad and I spent a significant amount of time digging through the pallets at the store to find clean pieces and I think it paid off.

Finishing Technique 

Ah the finish...as I mentioned up top, this is where we ran into some bumps. Before I start though, huge shout out to my dad who put in a TON of work with the spray equipment and troubleshooting the issues we ran into. Thanks a ton!

The stain is Mohawk Special Walnut and is lacquer based. I brushed this on after assembly with a china bristle brush. I did keep the base and top separate at this step, but if I were to do it again I think I'd pre-stain as many pieces as possible prior to assembly. All the corners and joints made it hard to achieve an even finish. As a matter of fact, I had to sand down the top after putting on the stain for the first time because it dried unevenly...extremely disheartening but worth the extra work to do it over.

Next we utilized a trick we learned from our local paint shop. Because the project used Number 2 Pine and Premium Pine pieces, the wood took the stain very differently. To combat this, we mixed sanding sealer with a bit of stain and lacquer thinner then sprayed the entire piece in varying amounts. This served two purposes; the first was to shade the different wood to even out the finish and the second was to seal in the stain before the next step.

After the first coat of sanding sealer came a coat of Van Dyke Brown Glaze over the entire piece. This was wiped on with old t-shirt rags. We wiped off the excess, let it dry then sprayed the entire piece again with sanding sealer only this time.

After each coat of sanding sealer dried we very lightly sanded with 220 or 320 grit sandpaper and wiped with a clean rag.

Finally, the entire piece was sprayed with lacquer. I think the base received 2 coats and the top 3. After the first coat went on everything looked beautiful. We let it dry overnight and came back the next morning to find a milky white haze had developed over everything. After consulting with our paint shop again, they said high humidity had caused water vapor to be trapped under the lacquer.

Luckily for us they had a solution which revolved around adding a retarding agent to the lacquer and re-coating the piece. The retarding agent causes the lacquer to dry slower and the water vapor to escape. Also, the lacquer was chemically hot enough to melt through the first layer. This plus some light sanding between each coat fixed everything right up! Huge learning experience which is always good!

DIY Benchwright Coffee Table
DIY Benchwright Coffee Table
DIY Benchwright Coffee Table
Oct
14
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hudson Nightstand. By special reader request we are expanding upon this fabulous collection we started a long time ago in a far off land... At least it feels that way. It's lovely to bring it back full circle and round out our plans for the gorgesou Hudson Collection! Hope you like... Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 - quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – ¼” thick x ¾” wide lattice strips at 8’
  • 1 piece of ¾” cove moulding at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • ½” brad nails
  • 1” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 4 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 4 drawer pulls
  • 1 small pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 16-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 20” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 2x2 at 21-1/2” – Back Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 21-1/2” – Back Panel
  • 6 – 1x2 at 21-1/2” – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16-1/4” – Surface Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 26” – Top
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 17-3/4” x 21-1/4” – Flat Surface
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 19” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 8 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 8 – 1x3 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 4-3/8” x 21-1/4” – Drawer Front Base
  • 8 – ¼” x ¾” strips at 21-1/4” – Drawer Front Trim
  • 8 – ¼” x ¾” strips at 2-7/8” – Drawer Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame and the panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the first one as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the remaining stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the surface supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the vertical stretcher and the back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. The piece will overhang the sides and the front by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the surface. After finishing, apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom so it will slide smoothly. Insert into the opening.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs, then make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the trim then attach using glue and 1” brad nails. 

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer front bases and the trim. Position the trim on the bases as shown then secure using glue and ½” brad nails.

Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the front in the opening) then drive screws through the holes for the pulls into the drawer boxes. Open the drawer then secure the front with countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Make any necessary adjustments then finish drilling the holes for the pulls.

Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
09
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Carr Desk! I just love a good desk wtih substantial lines, don't you? Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 8 – ¼” x ½” x 3’ craft boards
  • 1 quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • ½” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 4 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 6 drawer pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 29-1/4” – Sides & Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 29-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 30” – Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 15-3/4” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 30” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 30” – Large Shelf
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 18-1/4” – Small Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 49-1/2” – Top
  • 4 – 1x3 at 19” – Lower Trim
  • 1 – 1x3 at 2-1/4” – Lower Trim
  • 1 – 1x3 at 18-3/4” – Lower Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 27-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 29” – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 14-1/2” – Side Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Side Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1x3 at 14-3/4” – Side Drawer Box Fronts & Backs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 14-1/2” – Large Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 14-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 14-3/4” – Large Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 4-1/2” x 29-3/4” – Center Drawer Front
  • 5 – ½” plywood at 4-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Side Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ½ (ripped to 5/8” wide) at 15-1/2” long – Large Drawer Front Spacers
  • 12 – ¼” x ½” craft board strips at 4-1/2” – Drawer Front Trim
  • 2 – ¼” x ½”– craft board strips at 28-3/4” – Center Drawer Front Trim
  • 10 – ¼” x ½” craft board strips at 14-1/2” – Side Drawer Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and divider, and the backs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back pieces as shown. Secure to the sides and divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Position the pieces as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the center shelf and the side shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side and back edges of each piece. Position the shelves as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Position as shown with the sides and front overlapping by ¾”, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the lower trim. Secure the sides first, using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then secure the front pieces.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the side pieces. Attach the side pieces to the bottoms using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the front and back pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides and divider to allow for the drawer fronts. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts as well as the spacers for the large drawer front. For the large drawer front only, set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Position the spacers between the drawer fronts and secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. The back face of these drawer fronts will be flush with the back face of the spacer – the front of the spacer will stick out ¼” to allow for the trim.

Cut the pieces for the trim. Secure the side pieces first using glue and ½” brad nails, then secure the top and bottom pieces.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Shim the drawer fronts in the openings – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides in the opening. Secure the drawer fronts to the drawer boxes using 1” brad nails. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Install the drawer pulls.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
03
2013
Project Image
Project Details

I partnered with my friend Beckie from Infarrantly Creative to bring you plans for building this fun and fabulous Coffee Table Serving Tray! She did such an amazing job building and finishing this, it looks absolutely gorgeous and now I want one, don't you? This will be a pretty fast build for many of you and super duper easy on the budget, so go forth my friends and let some sawdust fly! Xx...Rayan

The Deets

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

Under $25 -$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Drill (with countersink bit if not using a Kreg Jig or Nail Gun)
  • Saw
  • Nail Gun - optional
  • Kreg Jig - optional
Lumber
  • 1 - 1x2 at 6'
  • 1 - 1x3 at 6'
  • 1 - 1x4 at 6'
  • 1 - 1x6 at 6'
  • Quarter sheet of 1/2" plywood
Materials
  • Tape Measure
  • 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws (if using Kreg Jig)
  • 1" Pocket Holes Screws (if using Kreg Jig)
  • 1 1/4" Wood Screws (If not using Kreg Jig)
  • 1 1/4" Finish Nails (if using Nail Gun)
  • 3 Drawer Pulls (you can choose 3 of the same or 2 that match and one that accents)
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 1 - 1x6 at 18" back 
  • 2 - 1x6 at 11 1/4" sides
  • 1 - 1x2 at 18" front trim
  • 1 - 1x3 at 16" drawer back
  • 2 - 1x3 at 10 1/2" drawer sides​
  • 1 - 1x4 at 18" drawer front
  • 2 - 1/2" plywood at 11 1/4" x 16" tray bases
  • 1 - 1/2" plywood at 10 1/2" x 14 1/2" drawer bottom
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build your frame: Use your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue, if you are using a Kreg Jig (with your Jig set for 3/4" material), otherwise you will countersink your 1 1/4" wood screws and glue. 

Step 2

Attach both plywood bases using either your 1" pocket hole screws and glue (with your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" material) or your 1 1/4" wood screws with your countersink bit and glue. 

Step 3

Tack on Your Front Trim: You can nail this in place with your 1 1/4" finish nails and glue, or for a more rustic look, use screws and let them show.

Step 4

Construct your Drawer: Using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" material and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws, attach the drawer back to the sides. Then using your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" material and your 1" pocket hole screws, attach the drawer bottom to the sides and back. If you aren't using a Kreg Jig, use your countersink bit and 1 1/4" wood screws and glue.

** You will want to add pocket holes in this step to secure the drawer front in the next step if you are choosing to use a Kreg Jig for your build. Place them near the front of the drawer sides as well as in the drawer bottom if you like. 

Step 5

Add the Drawer Face: Tack on the drawer face using either your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" material and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to secure the front to the sides. You will place your pocket holes in the drawer sides for this step. You can also use wood screws and glue with your countersink bit or your finish nails for this step.

Step 6

Add drawer handles to the sides for carrying and a drawer pull to the drawer for easy access. 

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
02
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection Shallow Cabinet! All components from the Original Office Collection can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. Awesome-sauce right? Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

 

  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Brad nailer
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber

 

  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials

 

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

 

  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 9-5/8” x 27-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 26-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 26-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-5/8” x 16-1/8” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 24” – Back
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 8-7/8”” x 16-1/8” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 17-5/8” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 17-5/8” – Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/8” x 16-5/8” - Door
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

 Cut the pieces for the sides and the lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

 

 Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

 

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

 

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 6
Step 7

 

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Step 8

 

Cut the piece for the door. The door will overlap the opening by ¼” on all sides. Attach the hinges to the door, then install on the cabinet.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
25
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection CPU Cabinet! The components from the Original Office Collection can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. Isn't that fancy? Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

 

  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Brad nailer
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber

 

  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¼” plywood
Materials

 

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • 1 set of 18” drawer slides
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

 

  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 16-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 20” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 24” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 19-1/4” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 20-3/4” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 17-5/8” - Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-5/8” x 18” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-9/16” x 18” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-9/16” x 15-1/8” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 5-6/16” x 16-5/8” – Drawer Front
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 16-5/8” x 17-3/16” – Door Base
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 5-9/16” x 16-5/8” – Upper False Drawer Front
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 11-3/8” x 16-5/8” – Lower False Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

 Cut the pieces for the sides and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws

Step 1
Step 2

 

 Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

 

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

  Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 4
Step 5

 

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer opening by 3/8” on the sides, and ¼” at the top and bottom.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. 

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

 

Cut the pieces for the door. Position the false fronts on the base with a ¼” gap in between. Fasten in place with glue and ½” brad nails. Install the hinges on the door, then position the door on the cabinet. The door will overlap the opening by ¼” on all sides.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
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