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Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free and Easy DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Kids Inspired Juliette Side Table. A gorgeous little side table, painted a sweet pink color would be pretty! 

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 4’
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Scrap of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 12” x 13-1/2”
  • 1 – ¾” pine panel at 16-3/4” x 19”
  • Baseboard trim
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • One set of 12” drawer slides
  • 1 – Drawer pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x2 at 26-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 13” – Upper Side Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 at 13” – Lower Side Frame
  • 2 – Baseboard Trim at 13”
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 19” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 22-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 14-1/2” – Bottom
  • 3 – 1x2 at 14-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” pine panel at 16-3/4” x 19” – Top
  • 2 – 1x4 at 10-1/2” – Drawer Box
  • 2 – 1x4 at 13-1/2” – Drawer Box
  • 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 12” x 13-1/2”
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/4” x 14-1/4” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1x3 at 2-1/2” - Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the frame pieces and on the side panels as shown. Assemble using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back of the panels should be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the baseboard trim. Attach to the lower part of the side panels with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the side panels using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach at the spacing indicated using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the side panels using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the cubby trim. Cut a decorative curve with a jigsaw and glue in place.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. If desired, use a router and a router bit to cut a roundover on the front and side edge. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the back, legs, sides, and aprons.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the drawer front and pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

A fabulous free DIY Furniture Plan to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Sarah Jewelry Storage! This piece can be oriented either way - just take the drawers out and turn them over!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
  • Quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 4’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 86” – Sides
  • 12 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 25” – Shelves & Cubbies
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 33-1/4” – Dividers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 25” – Trim
  • 4 – 1x4 at 7-1/2” – Trim
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 1-3/4” x 9-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 1-3/4” x 24-3/4” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 3 – ½” plywood at 9-1/2” x 23-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 26-1/2” x 77-1/2” – Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides and the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shelf pieces. Set three of the shelf pieces off to the side for the cubbies. Attach the shelves to the sides at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. It may be easier to attach the shelves with the pocket holes facing down working from the top of the sides, especially in the drawer area!

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the trim. Cut a fancy curve or design of your choice in the 1x4 pieces and attach to the 1x2 with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The face of the trim pieces will be flush with one of the edges of the 1x2.

Attach the trim assembly to the cabinet top and bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the notches in the shelves for the cubbies as shown with a jigsaw. Attach to the sides at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw. Attach to the cabinet with glue at the spacing indicated and add a few brad nails through the shelf into the dividers.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Cut the notch in the front piece as shown with a jigsaw. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the drawer box frames with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Add thumbtacks to the bottom of each drawer to make it easier to slide in and out.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

A fabulous and stylish nightstand or end table option for you home! This easy to build Free DIY furniture plan for a Ballard Designs Inspired Louis XVI end table will save you hundreds...

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 2’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Quarter sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • 3 drawer knobs or handles
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 25-3/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 10” – Side Panels
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 13-3/4” – Side Panels
  • 4 – 2x2 at 14” – Back Panel, Front Apron, Lower Shelf Apron
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 14” – Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 14” - Shelves
  • 2 – 1x2 at 14” – Shelf Aprons
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 18-1/2” – Top
  • 6 – 1x4 at 8-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • 6 – 1x4 at 13-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • 3 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 10” x 13-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, apply to the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs then cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side frame as shown.  Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the side panels as shown. Attach the panels to the frame pieces as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back of the panels will be flush with the back of the frame pieces. Attach the panel assemblies to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame and panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the panel as shown. Attach the back panel to the back frame pieces  using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame pieces. Attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

 

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the apron. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the apron as shown. Attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves and aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the lower apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the middle and upper aprons, as well as in the shelves. It will be easier to start with the upper shelf and work ypur way down when attaching the shelves.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the sides and front by ¾”. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the side frames, back frame, and apron.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts and pre-drill the holes for the handles or knobs. The drawer fronts will overlap the opening by ¼” on all sides. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free and Easy DIY Plans for the most fabulous and dainty desk! 

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Kids Inspired Madeline Desk & Hutch
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Kids Inspired Madeline Desk & Hutch
Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 4’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Half sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 3 sets of 18” drawers slides
  • 3 drawer pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x6 at 19”(ripped to 5-1/4” wide) – Side Panels
  • 1 – 1x6 at 41-1/2”(ripped to 5-1/4” wide) – Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 41-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 3-3/4” – Dividers
  • 3 – 1x2 at 19” – Slide Supports & Top Support
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-3/4” x 46” – Top
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 9” x 44-1/2” – Hutch Back
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 6-1/4” x 10-1/2” – Hutch Sides
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 4-1/2” x 9-1/2” – Hutch Center
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 9-1/2” x 11-1/2” – Hutch Top
  • 6 – 1x3 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1x3 at 9” – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 1x3 at 19” – Larger Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¼” plywood at 9” x 18” – Smaller Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 18” x 19” – Larger Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 1x6 at 10-1/2” (ripped to 4-1/4” wide) – Smaller Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – 1x6 at 20-1/2” (ripped to 4-1/4” wide) – Larger Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces. Attach to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the side panel should be flush with the inside of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes at each end and attach to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel should be flush with the inside of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the legs at the spacing indicated using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Attach to the stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the stretcher into the divider.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the dividers and to the back with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top support. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the upper stretcher and the back with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overlap by ¾”. Secure the top using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the stretchers, sides, and back.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the back of the hutch. Draw a decorative curve on the back and cut out with a jigsaw. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes along the bottom edge only. Secure to the top with glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the hutch cubby side. The overall piece will be cut at 6-1/4” x 10-1/2”. Cut a decorative curve in the piece with a jigsaw maintaining 4-3/4” at the front edge of the piece. Drill pocket holes in the back edge as well as the bottom edge. Secure to the back piece and the desk top with glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the hutch cubby center. Drill pocket holes in the back edge as well as the bottom edge. Secure to the back piece and the desk top with glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the hutch cubby top. The overall piece will be cut at 9-1/2” x 11-1/2”. Cut a curve in the piece maintaining 9-1/2” at the front part of the top as shown. Attach to the center with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the center piece. Secure to the sides and back with 1-1/4” brad nails through each piece into the top.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the bottoms. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 9
Step 9
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. The fronts will overlap the openings by ¼” on each side. Pre-drill the holes for the handles. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

This post is written in partnership with PrintRunner, an online printing company which offers label printing services.

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

A fabulous and fun way to store stuff for your teen with full mirror included! Doesn't get any better than that folks! 

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Teen Inspired Display-It Storage Mirror
Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 5 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 8’ casing
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • Lazy Susan Hardware
  • Cork to fit side frame w/adhesive
  • Mirror to fit side frame w/adhesive
  • Knobs or hooks for the back
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x3 at 18” – Lazy Susan Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 at 19-1/2” – Lazy Susan Frame
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Top, Lazy Susan & Cabinet Bases
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 64-3/4” – Cabinet Sides
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood at 17-1/2" x 64-3/4" - Back
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 19-3/4” – Shelves
  • 1 – 1x3 at 17-1/2” – Stretcher
  • 4 – 1x3 at 15-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 64-3/4” – Side Frames
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Apply edge banding to each piece before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the lazy susan frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the lazy susan base and the cabinet base. Attach the lazy susan base to the frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The top will overlap the frame by ½” on all sides.

Attach the lazy susan hardware to the lazy susan base and the cabinet base according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in the shorter ends. Attach to the cabinet base locating the sides ¾” in from the sides of the base using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the sides and base using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes on three sides only and attach to the cabinet at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the stretcher and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the side frames. The frame pieces can be attached to each other using pocket hole screws, then glued and secured with brad nails to the side of the cabinet  or attached to the base individually using glue and brad nails.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the top of the base into the top piece.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the casing one at a time with 45 deg. mitered edges. Attach to the cabinet  and lazy susan frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 9
Step 10
Attach knobs or hooks to the back. Add the cork and mirror to the side frames using the appropriate glue for each.
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

I think it's high time we had a corner unit bookshelf, no? These easy to build furniture plans are just the thing...

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 3’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 3’
  • One sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 5 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 11” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 1x3 at 11” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 21-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 4 – 1x2 at 26” – Back Supports
  • 2 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” – Front Supports
  • 2 – 1x2 at 14-1/4” – Front Supports
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 27-1/2” x 27-1/2” – Shelves
  • 2 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 25” x 27-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 29-3/4” x 29-3/4” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back side of the side pieces should be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the leg frames with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back aprons and the back leg. Drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons and attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the aprons should be flush with the outside face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the front aprons. Note that one side of the aprons is shorter than the other. This allows the shorter side to attach to the longer side and create the “L” shape. Drill pocket holes in both ends of the shorter pieces and one end only of the longer pieces. Attach as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws where the aprons attach to the legs. 1-1/4” pocket hole screws will be used where the aprons attach to each other.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the side panels with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The lower shelf can be secured to the lower aprons with 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the shelf into the aprons.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the back. Secure to the back of the bookshelf and upper shelf with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Attach the top to the shelf with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the legs and aprons. The top will overlap by ½” on the sides and front.

Step 5
Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Nothing says outdoor fun like an adorable children's sized table and benches! The fact that they coordinate with the other pieces in our Chesapeake Collection is just icing on the cake! The Materials are for one table and two benches and this easy DIY furniture project is sure to make your next outdoor event that much more fabulous!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 14 – 1x3 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 21-1/4” – Table Legs
  • 6 – 1x3 at 23-1/2” – Table Side Aprons & Supports
  • 2 – 1x3 at 40” – Table Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 27-1/2” – Table Top Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 at 39” – Table Top Frame
  • 3 – 1x3 at 22-1/2” – Table Top Dividers
  • 32 – 1x3 at 7-7/8” – Table Top Slats
  • 8 – 2x2 at 13-1/4” – Bench Legs
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8” – Bench Sides
  • 6 – 1x3 at 34” – Bench Aprons & Supports
  • 4 – 1x3 at 12” – Seat Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 33” – Seat Frames
  • 22 – 1x3 at 7” – Seat Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Starting with the table, cut the pieces for the legs and the side aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons. Attach to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.  The back face of the aprons should be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the longer aprons and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the table top. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble the frame pieces first using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the slats last at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the top to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the aprons, legs, and supports.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

 To build the benches:

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons. Attach to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.  The back face of the aprons should be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the longer aprons and the support, and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the aprons to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Attach the support to the side aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the seat top. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble the frame pieces first using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the slats last at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the seat to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the seat into the aprons, legs, and support.

Step 7
Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

For the little ones in your lives that want to garden and soak in the great outdoors! This easy to build kids potting bench is sure to supply hours on end of fun and perhaps even productivity in the garden!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 3’
  • Half sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x2 at 21-1/2” – Legs
  • 6 – 1x2 at 15” – Shelf Aprons, Shelf & Bench Frames
  • 2 – 1x4 at 15” – Bench Aprons
  • 7 – 1x2 at 25” – Shelf Aprons & Frame, Bench & Shelf Supports
  • 2 – 1x4 at 25” – Bench Aprons
  • 2 – 1x2 at 28” – Bench Frame
  • 18-1x3 at 15” – Shelf & Bench Slats
  • 2 – 1x6 at 18-1/4” – Hutch Sides
  • 1 – 1x6 at 25-1/2” – Hutch Shelf
  • 1 – 1x8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 28” – Hutch Top
  • 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 19” x 27” - Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the apron pieces. Attach the shorter aprons to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the aprons should be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Attach the longer aprons as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the shelf support. Drill pocket holes at each end and attach to the shelf aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelf frame and slats. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the shelf to the shelf aprons using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the frame and slats into the aprons and support.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the bench supports. Cut the piece for the shelf support. Drill pocket holes at each end and attach to the shelf aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top of the supports should be flush with the top of the aprons.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the bench frame and slats. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the top to the aprons using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the frame and slats into the aprons and supports.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

 

 Cut the pieces for the hutch sides. Cut the arcs as shown with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the ends of each piece and attach to the bench top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The hutch sides should be located ½” in from each side of the top as well as ¼” from the back edge.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the hutch shelf. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the hutch top. The top will overlap the front and sides by ½”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides into the top.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the piece for the back. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 9
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

This post brought to you by Waltons Potting Sheds

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free and Easy DIY Furniture Plans to Build the Blake Nightstand! We covered some of the other pieces in the Blake Collection earlier (to view those visit the Plan Index page and sort for the Blake Collection) and now the nightstand, which would also be fabulous as an end table!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 8’
  • Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Scrap of ¼” lauan, plywood, or hardboard at 12” x 16-1/2”
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • One set of 12” drawer slides
  • One handle or knob
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 22-1/2” – Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 24” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 25-1/2” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 13-3/4” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 19” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1x6 at 10-1/2” – Drawer Box
  • 2 – 1x6 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Box
  • 1 – ¼” lauan or plywood at 12” x 16-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle in each of the legs as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/4” material and drill one pocket hole at the top of each leg on the inside face only.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” notches in each corner for the legs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material. Drill pocket holes as shown and secure the shelf to the legs with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top and the drawer. Drill pocket holes in the drawer pieces as shown and attach to each other, then to the top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the drawer slide hardware to the bottom of the drawer sides according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Attach the top and drawer assembly to the legs with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces and assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the drawer slide hardware.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the drawer front and pre-drill the holes for the handles. Line up the front at the opening and temporarily secure to the drawer box with screws through the holes for the handles. Open the drawer and attach the front with countersunk screws from the inside. 

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free and Easy DIY Furniture Plans to Build the Belden End of Bed Dresser! The Perfect storage piece for all of those clothes or toys or....other stuff kiddos accumulate!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – ¼” x 2’ x 4’ beadboard panels
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • Full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Full sheet of ½” plywood
  • Half sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
  • 1 – ¼” x 1-1/4” trim at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1/2” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 4 – drawer pulls
  • 2 sets of 12” drawer slides
  • Edge banding for the plywood
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 22-1/4” – Legs
  • 6 – 1x2 at 12-1/2” – Side Stretchers & Slide Supports
  • 2 – ¾” Beadboard Assemblies at 12-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1x2 at 37-1/2” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 37-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” Beadboard assembly at 2-1/2” x 37” – Lower Front
  • 2 – ¾” Beadboard assemblies at 3” x 37” – Center & Upper Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 41-1/2” – Top
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 6-1/2” x 38” – Drawer Fronts
  • 4 – ¼” x 1-1/4” at 38” – Drawer Front Trim
  • 4 – ¼” x 1-1/4” at 4” – Drawer Front Trim
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 10-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 36-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • 2 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 12” x 36-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the ½” plywood into four 2’ x 4’ pieces. Create the beadboard assemblies by gluing the ¼” beadboard panel to a 2’ x 4’ piece of ½” plywood. Clamp until dry and add a few ½” brad nails if necessary. Be sparing with the nails as the assembly will have to be cut with a table saw or circular saw for the side panels and front panels.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the lower stretcher piece. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The pocket holes should face down.

Cut the beadboard panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panel will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Attach the slide supports as shown between the legs using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Cut the pieces for the longer lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig back to ¾” material and attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Secure to the lower stretcher with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face should be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the beadboard pieces for the front. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face should be flush with the front face of the legs.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Apply edge banding to the plywood if desired and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, back, and front.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the bottom. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Apply edge banding if desired.

Cut the pieces for the trim. Attach to the front with glue and ½” brad nails. Drill the holes for the handles. Drive screws through the holes for the handles into the drawer boxes to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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