Jul
15
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Small Hutch with Drawers. We are jumping around a bit, with our furniture plan collections, but today we are revisiting a set of plans from the Original Office Collection! A HUGE collection of pieces, found here, that you can mix and match till your heart's content! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber

 

  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 full sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials

 

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood edges, optional
  • Four cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

 

  •  2 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Feet
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 43-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 44-1/2” - Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 40-3/4” x 44-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 44-1/2” – Stretcher
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 44-1/2” – Shelves
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 7” x 10-1/2” – Drawer Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 48” – Top
  • 2 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Side Trim
  • 1 – 1x2 at 47-1/2” – Front Trim
  • 8 – ¾” plywood at 6-7/8” x 10-5/16” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 8 – ¾” plywood at 6-7/8” x9” – Drawer Sides
  • 4 – ¾”plywood at 8-13/16” x 9” – Drawer Bottoms
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and feet. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each side. Attach the feet to the bottom using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The side pieces will be positioned at the center of each foot.

Step 1
Step 2

 

 Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in the bottom edge only of each piece. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 4
Step 5

 

 Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Insert a few brad nails through the lowest shelf into the drawer dividers to secure the top of them.

Step 5
Step 6

 

 Cut the piece for the stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretcher will be flush with the outside edge of the sides.

Step 6
Step 7

 

 Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overlap by 1”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the sides and back.

Step 7
Step 8

 

Cut the pieces for the trim. Rout a decorative edge along one long edge of each piece if desired. Position the sides first and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front in the same manner. A mitered corner will be used if routing a decorative edge. Adjust the length of the sides accordingly. Store-bought trim can also be used.

Step 8
Step 9

 

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Apply a coat of paste wax on the bottom of each drawer as well as inside the cubbies where the drawers are located. This will allow the drawers to slide smoothly. Attach the cabinet hardware.

Step 9
Step 9
Step 9
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
11
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Chloe Coffee Table, by special reader request! If you have a request for a special set of plans, please feel free to post it here with a link! You will need a member account to do this, but I have opened registration so you no longer need my permission to have your account approved, yay!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at6’
  • 2  sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 17-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x4 at 21-13/16” – End Aprons
  • 2 – 1x4 at 51-13/16” – Side Aprons
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-9/16” x 52-9/16” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 26” x 56” – Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.  Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the curves using a jigsaw or a bandsaw, then clamp the pieces together and sand at once which makes them practically identical! 

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the aprons and cut 45 degree miters in each end. To drill the pocket holes, clamp a Kreg jig (preferably a “mini”) on the end of the board with the miter facing up and drill the pocket holes for ¾” material. Repeat this step for each end of all four aprons. Position the aprons ½” back from the front face of the legs then secure using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut the angle using a jigsaw and drill pocket holes as shown. Position the shelf on the leg approximately 3-1/4” up from the floor then secure using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the piece for the top. Place a soup can at the corner to draw the radius for the table, then cut using a jigsaw. Position the top so that 1” overhangs the aprons then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jun
19
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pickford Cabinet, with two drawers and four cubbies with doors.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Router with a rabbeting bit to cut a 3/8” wide by ¼” deep rabbet
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
  • Hammer
  • Wood Chisel
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 1 half sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1/2” brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 4 sets of non-mortise hinges
  • 12 cabinet pulls
  • 2 door handles
  • Glass or acrylic cut to fit inside glass door frames
  • 4 bun feet at 3” tall plus plates for installation
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 13-3/4” x 31-1/2” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 48-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 11-1/2” x 48-1/2” – Divider
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 13-7/8” – Shelves
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 10-1/4” x 12-5/8” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 7-7/16” x 10-1/4” – Drawer Sides
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 7-7/16” x 13-5/8” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 12 – ¼” plywood at 6-3/4” x 7-7/16” – False Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 13-5/8” x 15-3/8” – Doors
  • 4 – 1x2 at 10-5/8” – Door Rails
  • 4 – 1x2 at 23-5/8” – Door Stiles
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 20-5/8” – Glass Door Divider
  • 8 – ½” plywood at 4-9/16” – Glass Door Divider
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Position the sides on the bottom so that they are ¾” in from each side, and ¾” away from the front and back edges. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position the back between the side pieces so that the outside face is flush with the back edge of the sides. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the back edge. Position as shown in the drawing then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the back edge. Position as shown in the drawing then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws with ¾” overlapping on all sides.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes and the false drawer fronts. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom, as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer as shown using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Position the false drawer fronts as shown then secure using glue and ½” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the doors. The false drawer fronts will be positioned so they overhang the top and bottom of the door by about 1/16”. Secure using glue and ½” brad nails. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions. 

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the glass door frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the ¾” rails locating the holes so that the router bit will not interfere with the screws. Secure the rails to the stiles using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using the router and the rabbeting bit, cut a rabbet on the inside of the frame for the glass. Use a hammer and a chisel to square the corners.

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the divider pieces. Secure the dividers to the frame so that the outside face is flush with the outside face of the frame (the glass will rest on top of the dividers) using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Secure the glass using a bead of silicone caulk on the inside of the rabbet.

Install all of the cabinet pulls and handles as desired.

Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jun
17
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection Three Drawer Cabinet! The components in this collection can be mixed and matched. To see the other pieces we have published so far, click here or select Original Office Collection from the drop down menu on the plans page.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Brad nailer
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • 3 sets of 18” drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 16-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 20” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 24” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 20-3/4” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 17-5/8” - Trim
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 4-9/16” x 17-1/4” – Small Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-9/16” x 14-7/8” – Small Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-9/16” x 16-5/8” – Small Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Large Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 14-7/8” – Large Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 11-3/8” x 16-5/8” – Large Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer opening by 3/8” on the sides, and ¼” at the top and bottom.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. 

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jun
14
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Piemonte 3-Drawer Dresser. I love the versatility this pieces has! I would use something like this as an end table, in an entry way, as an occasional table, it really might go anywhere... Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 4” wide trim at 8’
  • 2 – 1” wide trim at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 3 cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 29” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 24-3/4” – Back
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 19-1/2” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 22” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 17” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x4 at 10-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 6 – 1x4 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Fronts & Backs
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/8” x 19-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • Drawer Trim – Cut to fit
  • Lower Trim – Cut to fit

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge.

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the sides and top. Secure the back to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as the back edge. Secure to the sides and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the top. Position the top so that ½” overhangs each side and the front, then secure with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides and back into the underside of the top.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble the drawer as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts and mark the position of the pulls. Drill the holes for the pulls all the way through the boards. For an easy tutorial on positioning drawer fronts, click here.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the drawer trim. The dimensions will depend on the type of trim selected and if mitered corners will be used. Measure the lengths and cut the pieces accordingly. Fasten to each of the drawer fronts using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

The pieces for the lower trim will be measured and attached in the same manner.

Step 5
Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jun
12
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Small Hutch! Easy to build and big on storage goodness... to see the other pieces in this huge and fabulous collection, click here!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood edges, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Feet
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 43-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 44-1/2” - Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 40-3/4” x 44-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 44-1/2” – Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 44-1/2” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 48” – Top
  • 2 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Side Trim
  • 1 – 1x2 at 47-1/2” – Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and feet. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each side. Attach the feet to the bottom using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The side pieces will be positioned at the center of each foot.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretcher will be flush with the outside edge of the sides.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overlap by 1”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the sides and back.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the trim. Rout a decorative edge along one long edge of each piece if desired. Position the sides first and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front in the same manner. A mitered corner will be used if routing a decorative edge. Adjust the length of the sides accordingly. Store-bought trim can also be used.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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