Oct
02
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection Shallow Cabinet! All components from the Original Office Collection can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. Awesome-sauce right? Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

 

  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Brad nailer
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber

 

  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials

 

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

 

  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 9-5/8” x 27-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 26-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 26-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-5/8” x 16-1/8” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 24” – Back
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 8-7/8”” x 16-1/8” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 17-5/8” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 17-5/8” – Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/8” x 16-5/8” - Door
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

 Cut the pieces for the sides and the lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

 

 Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

 

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

 

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 6
Step 7

 

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Step 8

 

Cut the piece for the door. The door will overlap the opening by ¼” on all sides. Attach the hinges to the door, then install on the cabinet.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
25
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection CPU Cabinet! The components from the Original Office Collection can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. Isn't that fancy? Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

 

  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Brad nailer
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber

 

  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¼” plywood
Materials

 

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • 1 set of 18” drawer slides
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

 

  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 16-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 20” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 24” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 19-1/4” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 20-3/4” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 17-5/8” - Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-5/8” x 18” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-9/16” x 18” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-9/16” x 15-1/8” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 5-6/16” x 16-5/8” – Drawer Front
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 16-5/8” x 17-3/16” – Door Base
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 5-9/16” x 16-5/8” – Upper False Drawer Front
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 11-3/8” x 16-5/8” – Lower False Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

 Cut the pieces for the sides and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws

Step 1
Step 2

 

 Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

 

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

  Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 4
Step 5

 

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer opening by 3/8” on the sides, and ¼” at the top and bottom.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. 

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

 

Cut the pieces for the door. Position the false fronts on the base with a ¼” gap in between. Fasten in place with glue and ½” brad nails. Install the hinges on the door, then position the door on the cabinet. The door will overlap the opening by ¼” on all sides.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Sep
03
2013
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: Sommerset Dresser

A friend needed some new dressers for her children and I said I could make them. Made loft beds for the children and the dresser are made to fit under the beds.

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Aug
30
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ivan Corner Shelf! A fun plan for adding something unique to a vacant corner of your space. No use in letting that space go to waste...am I right? Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x10 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 3” screws (for mounting)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 6 – 1x10 (ripped to 7-3/4” wide) at 7-3/4” - Shelves
  • 2 – 1x10 (ripped to 7-3/4” wide) at 5-3/4” – Top & Bottom Spacers
  • 5 – 1x10 (ripped to 7-3/4” wide) at 6-1/2” – Middle Spacers
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut the curve in each shelf using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the spacers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the middle spacers, and one end only of the top and bottom spacers. Assemble the shelf using as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Mount the shelf unit to the wall using 3” screws through the shelf into a stud.

Step 2
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Aug
29
2013
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: Toy Box A La Land of Nod

A friend challenged me to build her a small toy box that was like one she saw on the Land of Nod web site.

Not one to run from a challenge I produced what you see in the opening picture. 

It was a straightforward build except for the transition on the front that required precise cutting of angles for everything to fit properly.  Thank goodness for a bandsaw and a device that measures angles accurately.

I also rounded some edges for looks and safety with my newly acquired router.  As an added novelty I added a Shaker peg on each end but inside the box.  

The final product weighs about 28 lbs which is nearly double the weight of the Land of Nod version.  I think that is the result of using wood rather than the engineered variety of wood.

The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: Toy Box A La Land of Nod
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: Toy Box A La Land of Nod
Estimated Cost 

If I didn't have a scrap pile it would have cost about $50 plus painting.  I spent about $30.  Now compare that with the $199 retail price plus tax and shipping and the savings are considerable.  You also have to put it together!

Length of Time 

It took me two afternoons because of the thought process and trial and error to get the front transition correct.

Lumber Used 

Entirely pine from Big Blue and my scrap pile.

Finishing Technique 

The interior is sanded to 120 grit and the exterior to 220 grit.  The recipient will handle the painting. 

Aug
16
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection Three Drawer Charger Cabinet! That's right my friends, we still have quite a few more plans to post in the Original Office Collection and this three drawer charging unit is quite the fabulous addition to the bunch! Yahoo! Xx... Rayan

Ps...The components can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

 

  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Brad nailer
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber

 

  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials

 

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • 3 sets of 18” drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

 

  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 16-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 20” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 24” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 20-3/4” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 17-5/8” – Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/8” x 18” – Charger Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 15-1/8” – Charger Drawer Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 15-1/8” – Charger Drawer Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 4-9/16” x 17-1/4” – Small Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-9/16” x 14-7/8” – Small Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-9/16” x 16-5/8” – Small Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Large Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 14-7/8” – Large Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 11-3/8” x 16-5/8” – Large Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

 Cut the pieces for the sides and the lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

 

 Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

 

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

 

 Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 7

 

Cut the pieces for the charger drawer. Cut the notches in the back piece as shown using a jigsaw. Attach the front and back pieces to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

 

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

 

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer opening by 3/8” on the sides, and ¼” at the top and bottom.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. 

Step 8
Step 8
Step 8
Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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