Apr
01
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free Plans to Build a gorgeous Farmhouse Bed! A simple build with sturdy lines and amazing style! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 3x3 at 8’
  • 7 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 16 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 sheets  of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 3x3 at 48-1/2” – Headboard Legs
  • 3 – 2x3 at 60-1/2” – Headboard Panel & Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 29” x 60-1/2” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 1x4 (ripped to 3” wide) at 66-1/2” – Headboard & Footboard Trim
  • 2 – 1x4 at 67-1/2” – Headboard & Footboard Trim
  • 2 – 3x3 at 19-1/2” – Footboard Legs
  • 2 – 2x3 at 60-1/2” – Footboard Panel
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 60-1/2” – Footboard Panel
  • 4 – 2x3 at 79-1/2” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 79-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1x2 at 79-1/2 – Slat Supports
  • 1 – 2x2 at 79-1/2” – Center Support
  • 2 – 2x2 at 7” – Center Support
  • 16 – 1x3 at 60-1/2” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs. Cut the angle as shown using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

Cut the pieces for the headboard panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2x3 pieces as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Insert the plywood panel and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the legs and 2x3 pieces.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the headboard trim. The front and sides of each trim piece will overlap by ½”. Secure each piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the footboard legs. Cut the angle as shown using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

Cut the pieces for the footboard panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2x3 pieces as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Insert the plywood panel and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the legs and 2x3 pieces.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the footboard trim. The front and sides of each trim piece will overlap by ½”. Secure each piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2x3s to the plywood using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the 2x3 pieces.

Attach the slat support using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the slat supports will be flush with the bottom of the sides.

Secure the sides to the legs as shown using 2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue – the bed may need to be disassembled (plus it has to fit through the door!).

Step 5
Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the center support. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer support, as well as one end of each leg piece. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Attach to the center of the headboard stretcher and footboard using 2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue!

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the slats. Position them, evenly spaced, and secure using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue!

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Mar
29
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Adjustable Twin to Full Bed! You guys are going to flip your lid over this project!!! Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 7 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 3 – 2x2 at 36” – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – 1x2 at 32” – Headboard Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 32” – Headboard Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-3/4” x 32” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 2x2 at 16-3/4” – Stops for Adjustable Panel
  • 1 – 1x2 at 17-1/2” – Adjustable Headboard Brace
  • 2 – 1x2 at 20-1/2” – Adjustable Headboard Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 25-3/4” – Adjustable Headboard Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 25-3/4” – Adjustable Headboard Panel
  • 3 – 2x2 at 18” – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – 1x2 at 32” – Footboard Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 32” – Footboard Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 32” – Footboard Panel
  • 1 – 2x2 at 16-3/4” – Adjustable Footboard Stop
  • 1 – 1x2 at 17-1/2” – Adjustable Footboard Brace
  • 2 – 1x2 at 20-1/2” – Adjustable Footboard Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 7-3/4” – Adjustable Footboard Panel
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 20-1/2” – Adjustable Footboard Panel
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 76” – Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 74-1/2” – Slat Supports
  • 15 – 1x3 at 39-1/2” (for twin) or 54-1/2” (for full) - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the headboard. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 piece and the 2x2 piece, as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Assemble as shown using glue and pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the adjustable headboard stops and brace. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each piece. Position as shown then secure using glue and pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the adjustable headboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x2 piece. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Place the adjustable headboard on the brace and secure in place as shown with a few countersunk screws through the brace into the adjustable piece.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the footboard. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 piece and the 2x2 piece, as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Assemble as shown using glue and pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the adjustable headboard stops and brace. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each piece. Position as shown then secure using glue and pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the adjustable footboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x2 piece. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Place the adjustable footboard on the brace and secure in place as shown with a few countersunk screws through the brace into the adjustable piece.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut the notch using a jigsaw. Note that one side of the notch is longer than the other side. Because of the way the headboard and the footboard sit, there will be no left and right so when drilling the pocket holes, refer to the drawing and drill in the position shown. Attach to the headboard and footboard using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue!

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the slat supports. Secure to the bottom of the sides using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Cut the pieces for the slats – 39-1/2” long for a twin bed or 54-1/2” long for a full bed. There is a 1” space between the slats. Secure to the supports using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. DO NOT use glue!

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Feb
27
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Ellsworth Entertaining Cabinet! This piece has great lines and will satisfy the antique or vintage lovers of you, out there! A Modern build for the furniture lovers of a bygone era! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
  • One quarter sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for exposed edges of plywood
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 2 cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/2” x 42” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 42” x 46-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 21” x 46-1/2” – Bottom & Shelf
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” 27-1/4” – Front Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x  41-1/2” – Front Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x  41-1/2” – Front Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-3/4” x 46-1/2” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 48” – Front Apron
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 46-1/2” – Upper Shelf
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 15-9/16” – Door Frame
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 21” – Door Frame
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 15-9/16” x 16” – Door Panels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Maintaining the dimensions shown, cut the curves using a jigsaw.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Cut the curve in the bottom as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelf and the bottom. Drill pocket holes along the two shorter edges and one long edge. Secure in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The shelf and bottom will be positioned ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the horizontal pieces. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach to the front of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes along the two shorter edges and one long edge. Secure in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the top to the top of the frame using 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the front apron. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the upper shelf. Drill pocket holes along the two shorter edges and one long edge. Secure in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Attach the shorter frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame pieces. Attach the side frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. Attach the hinges to the doors, then install in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door as well as in between the two. Install the cabinet pulls.

Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
25
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Clara Buffet with a Drop-Down TV Option! This is a Custom Plan for a reader with a TV containment and dropdown option! How cool is that biz... yahoo Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 3’
  • Half sheet of ½” plywood
  • 2 - sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 1 – 4x4 at 3’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 2” screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 4 – Drawer Handles or knobs
  • Two sets of hinges (doors)
  • Continuous hinge (for the top door)
  • Edge banding for the plywood or Laminate for top
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 1x3 at 15” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 29-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 15” x 24-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 44-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 28-1/2” x 44-1/2” – Large Divider & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/4” x 28-1/2” – Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 21-7/8” – Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 21-7/8” – Upper Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 21-7/8” – Lower Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 47” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/4” x 37-3/4” – Top Door
  • 2 – 1x3 at 46” – Base Frame
  • 3 – 1x3 at 17” – Base Frame
  • 4 – 4x4 at 3-1/4” - Feet
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 6-3/4” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 6-3/4” x 20-1/8” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 21-5/8” – Drawer Fronts
  • 4 – 1x3 at 16-5/8” – Door Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 21-3/4” – Door Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 16-5/8” x 16-3/4” – Door Panels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown.

Cut the plywood piece for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble with glue and 1” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the two shorter ends. Attach the sides with the bottom of the frames flush with the bottom face using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the large divider. Drill pocket holes as shown,  and secure to the bottom and sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the base. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the three shorter pieces and assemble as shown. Attach the feet to the frame with countersunk 2” screws through the base frame into the feet.

Attach the base to the cabinet with countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the frame into the bottom.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the narrower divider. Drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges, and secure to the large divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the shorter ends of each shelf and secure with the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The lower shelves are narrower and are located ¾” back from the front edge.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. Cut the opening as shown. Secure to the cabinet with ½” overlap at the sides and front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, dividers, and stretchers.

Cut the piece for the door. Cut an optional finger hole at the front of the door to make it easier to open. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides. The hinge can be placed at the front or back of the opening. 

Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Attach the bottom to the sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the front and back, and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 9
Step 9
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the doors and assemble as shown, in the same manner as the sides. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors. Attach the hinges to the doors, then shim in place and attach the hinges to the cabinet.

Step 10
Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
23
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Cube. Perfect with the other pieces in the Modular Family collection!!!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • Scrap of 1x4 at 14-1/2”
  • 1 full sheet of ¾”plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • One set of hinges
  • Cabinet pull or handle
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 22-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 15” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 18” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 16” – Top
  • 1 – 1x4 at 14-1/2” – Kick Plate
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 17-3/4” - Door
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will need to be applied before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edges of the sides, as well as the longer edges of the bottom. Position as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides and back into the underside of the top.

Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the door. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening. Install the hinges on the door, then attach to the cabinet. Install the cabinet pull or handle.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
21
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Bridge. Yay, moving right along through this collection! We already covered the bench and lockers for this modular family, and today the bridge!

The Deets

Of course the whole collection can be configured any way you like...

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 full sheet of ¾”plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 47-1/2” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 15” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 47-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 46” – Divider Box Top & Bottom
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 14-1/4” - Dividers
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will need to be applied before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the box. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges of the sides. Assemble as shown and attach the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure to the sides, top, and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the divider box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter dividers. Position as shown and secure to the top and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Insert the divider box into the bridge box and secure using 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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