Traditional

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Another project from the project request page (which will be moving to the community pages shortly for ease of tracking) and an amazingly versatile piece! Bath storage, book shelves, or display.. this piece will cover them all!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 3’
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’ (or 2 – 2x4 ripped to 1-1/2” wide, saving the excess for the X pieces)
  • 3 – 1x2 at 8’
  •  Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – ¼” strips at 8’ 
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies

 

Cut List
  • 8 – 1x2 at 9” – Shelf Sides
  • 8 – 1x2 at 17” – Shelf Front & Back
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 9” x 17” – Shelves
  • 4 – 2x2 at 76” - Sides
  • 4 – 1x6 at 9” – Upper & Lower Aprons
  • 4 – 1x6 at 17” – Upper & Lower Aprons
  • 2 – ¼” strips 1-1/2” x 78-1/2” – “X”
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 20” - Top
  • 1 – 3’ piece of crown molding
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

** It may be easier to sand each piece before assembly **

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood pieces. Also drill pocket holes in each end of the shelf side pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the tower sides. Attach the shelves at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

 

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the aprons. Drill pocket holes in the end of each board and attach to the top and bottom of the tower sides. The bottom apron will be located directly under the lowest shelf.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the “X”. Attach to the tower with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and apron pieces.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the crown molding (or molding of your choice). Attach to the front and sides of the tower with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! 

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

A simple stylish build for your family room with plenty of space underneath for magazines or baskets!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 6’
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 17-1/4” - Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 38-1/4” – Long Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 25-1/2” – Short Aprons
  • 2 – 1x2 at 38-1/4” – Long Shelf Support
  • 2 – 1x2 at 25-1/2” – Short Shelf Support
  • 1 – 1x2 at 26-1/2” – Center Support
  • 1 – 26-1/2” x 39-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Shelf
  • 1 – 28-1/2” x 41-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Top
  • 2 – 1x2 at 42-3/4” – Upper Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 28-1/2” – Upper Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper as shown in the drawing.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the aprons and the shelf supports as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. The tapers on the legs will face to the outer sides. Attach the aprons to the legs with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Locate them ¼” back from the outside face of the legs. Attach the shelf supports in the same manner, locating them ¼” back from the outside face of the legs, and also 4” up from the bottom of the leg.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the center support. Drill pocket holes at each end and attach to the center of the long aprons.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut ½” x ½” notches in each corner for the legs. Drill pocket holes in all sides and attach to the supports with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Locate the top of the shelf flush with the top of the supports.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the table frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top, into the legs, aprons, and center support.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the trim. The trim will for a ¾” lip around the top. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

If desired, a router and a decorative bit can be used to put a nice edge on the trim!

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! 

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

The most fabulous storage piece and a special request submitted to the Project Request page!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

 

  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber

 

  • 1 – sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 4 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 8 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 7 – 1x6 at 8’
Materials

 

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 7 sets of 18” drawer slides
  • Drawer Handles or knobs
  • Edge banding for the plywood
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

 

  • 4 – 2x2 at 54-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18-1/2” – Side Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 48-3/4” – Side Panels
  • 14 – 1x2 at 34” – Support Frames
  • 8 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Support Frames
  • 2 – 1x2 at 7” – Vertical Supports
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 37” x 50-1/4” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18x 33-3/4” – Shelf
  • 8 – 1x6 at 15-5/8” – Upper Drawer Boxes
  • 6 – 1x6 at 33” – Lower Drawer Boxes
  • 14 – 1x6 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/2” x 38-1/2” - Top
  • 4 – ¼” plywood at 15-5/8” x 20” – Upper Drawer Bottoms
  • 3 – ¼” plywood at 20” x 33” – Lower Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 16-3/8” – Upper Drawer Fronts
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/4” x 33-3/4” – Lower Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

Cut the pieces for the side frames, panels, and stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 frame pieces as well as the side panels. The 1x2 pieces will be located so that the 1-1/2” face is on the top/bottom. Assemble the frame with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws, then attach the panels in the same manner. The back of the panel should be flush with the back of the frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Attach to sides at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/2” screws.

Step 1
Step 2

 

Cut the pieces for the drawer supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/2” screws. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing indicated in the drawings. It may be easier to start at the bottom and work your way up.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

 

Cut the pieces for the vertical supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the center of the upper drawer compartments at the spacing indicated.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the piece for the back and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

 

Cut the piece for the top and secure to the supports and side frames with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top. The front and sides of the top will hang over by ¾”.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the piece for the shelf. To make it slide easier, draw a pencil mark on the underside of the shelf where the supports are located. Push thumbtacks (the brass tacks work best) into the underside of the shelf along the pencil marks so that the tacks will slide along the supports when the shelf is pulled out.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

 

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Do not attach the drawer faces until the drawer  boxes have been installed and adjusted! Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions placing them ¾” back from the opening face to allow for the fronts. Make any adjustments necessary.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

 

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. For all drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles and attach the hardware.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! 

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Maurice / The Design Confidential
Project Image

I promised myself I would build this lounger for my 52nd birthday and on March 11th (my birthday) I completed it. So you can see, this project has meant more to me than I can ever express.

I want to say that I never buit anything in my life that did not come with Ikea-like instructions. This was a labor of love and very satisfying.  I want to thank you so much for these amazing plans. This lounger is going to provide many relaxing moments in the sun reading and relaxing. BTW, its much bigger than I thought. I look forward to start building the double lounger  next weekend. I'm sure I'll be able to cut down my build time in half.  Thank you for an amazing experience! I found my new hobby!

Built From These Plans: 
Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Chesapeake Single Chaise Lounge
Estimated Cost: 

Overall these plans are very easy to understand and very thorough.  The cost was accurate almost to the dollar. Word of warning though, double check the cuts.  I had my lumber cuts done at Homedepot and they screwed up the 30 slats and use two-inch hinges for best fit. I recommend that you buy: 1-Kreg right angle clamp and 2- kreg small clamps,and two boxes of 100 each 1.25 inch pocket hole screws to make your life easy and get a great fit in your build. 

Length of Time: 

Altogether it took me 22 hours over 4 days at an easy pace.

Lumber Used: 

I would like to make a couple of comments on the plans and maybe a tip or two for anyone considering this project. First, I noticed the plan did not include a rear interior frame so I added one to add extra rigidity. Also, the added rear interior frame allows the back rest stand to slide under the back rest without touching the ground.

I tried to show as many angles on the rear interior frame so you can see the placement. Basically, it sits just under where the back part of the original interior frame is placed. The dimensions are 26” wide and 21.75” long (or built so it fits flush with the bottom end of the front interior frame and the bottom of the last adjustment block support.

Secondly, the instructions and drawings on adding the legs did not make any mention of how the legs will be attached to the frame until Step 8. The picture in Step 8 has vertical pocket holes showing on the length part of the exterior frame (you need these to attach the legs), but when building the exterior frame in Step 1 there is no mention of adding those vertical pocket holes. This becomes a serious problem when you get to step 8 and there is no way to attach the legs to the frame using the Kreg jig. My fix to this was to attach 4 custom cut small blocks of wood with Kreg pocket holes (attached to the frame with 2 wood screws for each block) to the end areas of the inside of the external frame.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

We covered plans for the buffet here, and now the hutch! Isn't it fabulous? Just think of all that amazing wine storage! 

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 6’
  • Full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • Half sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 3 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 4’
  • 24 – ¾” dowels at 3’
  • 1 – Trim or Casing at 4’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 2” screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 2 pieces of glass or acrylic
  • 2 – Drawer Handles or knobs
  • Edge banding for the plywood or Laminate for top
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Router with rabbeting bit
  • Silicone to adhere glass/acrylic to door frame
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 6 – 1x3 at 6” – Side & Divider Frames
  • 6 – 1x3 at 43-1/4” – Side & Divider Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 6” x 38-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 28 – 1x2 at 10-1/4” – Shelf Supports
  • 2 – 1x4 at 21-7/8” – Lower Aprons
  • 2 – 1x6 at 21-7/8” (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) – Upper Aprons
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 43-1/4” x 46” – Back
  • 14 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 21-7/8” – Shelves
  • 70 – ¾” dowels at 11” – Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 47” – Top
  • 1 – Trim or Casing at 46” – Top Trim
  • 4 – 1x3 at 17-1/2” – Door Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 38-1/2” – Door Frames
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side frames and divider. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown.

Cut the plywood piece for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble with glue and 1” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the supports. Attach with the spacing indicated in the drawing using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower aprons. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves and dividers. Attach each dowel piece to the shelves with the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The ends of the dividers can be rounded off by thoroughly sanding them.

Secure the shelves to the supports using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. It would be easier to start with the bottom shelf first, then work your way up.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top and secure to the sides and aprons with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top. The top will overlap by ½” on the sides and front.

Step 6
Step 7

 Cut the piece for the trim. Attach to the front just under the top with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the door frames and assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using a router and a rabbeting bit, cut a rabbet approximately ¼” deep to hold the glass or acrylic. Run a bead of silicone in the rabbet to secure the glass or acrylic to the frame.

Wait to purchase the glass or acrylic until after the doors are completed. This way you can get an accurate measurement of the area because the rabbet width will depend on the router bit used.

Attach the hinges to the doors, then attach them to the cabinet.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! 

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

A custom build designed by Matt himself! This cabinet is totally customizable – Matt used the actual measurements of his media components to determine the size of his cabinet. 

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Matt’s Media Cabinet
Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
Materials
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 4 – Drawer Handles or knobs
  • Edge banding for the plywood edges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 1 – 18” x 93-1/2” – Top
  • 1 – 18” x 91-1/2” – Bottom
  • 6 – 18” x 22-3/4” – Dividers
  • 4 – 17” x 18” – Shelves
  • 2 – 18” x 18” – Shelves
  • 4 – 10” x 37-1/4” – Hutch Sides
  • 8 – 9” x 10” – Hutch Shelves
  • 1 – 10” x 80” – Hutch Top
  • 1 – 24-1/4” x 91-1/2” (1/4” plywood) - Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Apply edge banding, if desired, after each piece has been cut.

Cut the pieces for the top, bottom, and dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the 18” ends of the dividers. Attach one divider to each side of the bottom with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach top in the same manner keeping in mind that each end of the top will overlap the sides by 1”. Check for square, then insert the remaining dividers at the spacing indicated in the drawing

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the shelves and attach to the dividers with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the hutches. Attach the shelves to the sides with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Set the hutch assemblies on the top spaced 59” apart. Attach the hutch top with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then secure the hutch assemblies to the cabinet with countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! 

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

A fabulous Buffet with clean lines and simple styling, this piece is sure to fit with most decor! 

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 3’
  • Half sheet of ½” plywood
  • Full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Half sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 4x4 at 3’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 2” screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 2 sets of 18” drawer slides
  • 4 – Drawer Handles or knobs
  • Edge banding for the plywood or Laminate for top
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 1x3 at 15” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 29-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 15” x 24-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 44-1/2” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 28-1/2” – Divider
  • 4 – 1x2 at 21-7/8” – Top Supports
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 21-7/8” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 29-1/4” x 46” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 47” – Top
  • 2 – 1x3 at 46” – Base Frame
  • 3 – 1x3 at 17” – Base Frame
  • 4 – 4x4 at 3-1/4” - Feet
  • 4 – 1x4 at 20-7/8” – Drawer Boxes
  • 4 – 1x4 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • 2 – ¼” plywood at 18” x 20-7/8” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 21-5/8” – Drawer Fronts
  • 4 – 1x3 at 16-5/8” – Door Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 21-3/4” – Door Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 16-5/8” x 16-3/4” – Door Panels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

Cut the pieces for the side frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown.

Cut the plywood piece for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble with glue and 1” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame.

Step 1
Step 2

 

Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the two shorter ends. Attach the sides with the bottom of the frames flush with the bottom face using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 

Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes in one short end only and secure in the center of the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the pieces for the top support. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Secure to the sides and divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

 

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the shorter ends of each shelf and secure with the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the piece for the back. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the side frames, shelves, bottom, and top supports.

Step 6
Step 7

 

 Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet with ½” overlap at the sides and front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the supports, divider, and side panels.

Step 7
Step 8

 

Cut the pieces for the base. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the three shorter pieces and assemble as shown. Attach the feet to the frame with countersunk 2” screws through the base frame into the feet.

Attach the base to the cabinet with countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the frame into the bottom.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

 

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Do not attach the drawer faces until the drawer  boxes have been installed and adjusted! Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions placing them ¾” back from the opening face to allow for the fronts. Make any adjustments necessary.

Step 9
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Drill the holes for the handle or knob placement. Shim in place in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and drill a temporary screw through the holes into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers and secure the fronts to the boxes from the insides with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handle or knob. Cut the pieces for the doors and assemble as shown, in the same manner as the sides. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors. Attach the hinges to the doors, then shim in place and attach the hinges to the cabinet.
Step 10
Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! 

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by JD Jones / The Design Confidential
Project Image

This was my first project and I really want to thank you for making it possible. This opened an entire new world to me and I look forward to many more projects to come in the near future.

-Jimmy I couldn't be more proud of your hard work and this beautiful specimen you have built! I look forward to seeing your projects in the future and thank you for taking the time to build from my plans, it's such an honor! ~ Rayan

Built From These Plans: 
Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Wide Hudson Bedside Table
Length of Time: 

This project took about a week to finish.

Lumber Used: 

I used an assortment of what was available at the local large box store since I knew it would be painted. The legs are oak, top and shelf are birch plywood, body is pine, and the decorative moldings are poplar.

Finishing Technique: 

The table edges were routed with a roman ogee bit and the moldings on the sides, back, and drawer front were routed with a quarter round over bit. Finish is Valspar paint in Churchill Hotel Vanilla and antiquing glaze, followed by a Wipe-on poly.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

This project is quite the beauty. Strong traditional style and amazing functionality, this fine piece of work is sure to serve any need for storage and display you might have, or might even think of having! 

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Paulette Server
Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 Full Sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 Sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 4’ or scrap at least 25” long
  • 1 – 1x6 at 4’ or scrap at least 25” long
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • Drawer Handles or knobs
  • Shelf pins (for adjustable shelves)
  • Edge banding for the plywood
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 17-1/4” x 35” of ¾” plywood – Console Sides
  • 6 – 1x2 at 17-1/4” – Shelf Supports
  • 1 – 1x2 at 26-1/2” – Back Spacer
  • 3 – 17-1/4” x 26-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Console Shelves
  • 3 – 1x2 at 25” – Console Frame
  • 1 – 1x4 at 25” (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) – Console Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 35” – Console Frame
  • 1 – 28” x 35” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Back
  • 1 – 18-3/4” x 28” of ¾” plywood – Console Top
  • 2 – 11-1/4” x 47-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Hutch Sides
  • 2 – 11-1/4” x 26-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Hutch Shelves, Fixed
  • 2 – 11-1/4” x 26-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Hutch Shelves, Adjustable
  • 1 – 1x6 at 25” – Hutch Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 25” – Hutch Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 47-1/4” – Hutch Frame
  • 1 – 28” x 47-1/4” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Hutch Back
  • 1 – 13-3/4” x 28” of ¾” plywood – Hutch Top
  • 4 – 9-1/2” x 24” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Boxes
  • 4 – 9-1/4” x 14-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Boxes
  • 4 – 2-3/4” x 24” of ¾” plywood – Small Console  & Hutch Drawer Boxes
  • 2 – 2-3/4” x 14-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Small Console Drawer Box
  • 2 – 2-3/4” x 8” of ¾” plywood – Small Hutch Drawer Box
  • 3 – 16” x 24” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 1 – 8” x 24” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 11-1/2” x 24-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 3-1/2” x 24-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Small Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 28” Baseboard Trim or Door Casing – Upper and Lower Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the console sides, shelf supports and back spacer. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the back spacer only. Attach the supports to the sides as indicated in the drawing with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Attach the back spacer as indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the shelves.  Attach to the underside of the supports with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and attach to the console with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the console frame. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the horizontal boards and assemble the frame as indicated in the drawing with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The horizontal pieces of the frame will be flush with the tops of the shelves.

Attach the frame to the console with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

 

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the console top. Apply edge banding, if desired, and attach to the console with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, back spacer, and frame.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the hutch sides. Drill pocket holes in one short end of each piece to attach to the console. Also, drill two rows of holes on each piece for the adjustable shelves and shelf pins. Attach the sides to the console with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the outside faces are flush with the sides of the console.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the fixed shelves and apply edge banding, if desired. Attach to the hutch sides as indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. It will be easier to attach the bottom shelf first, then the upper shelf. The bottom shelf will be located ¾” up from the top of the console.

Cut the pieces for the adjustable shelves. They will be ¼” shorter than the fixed shelves. Apply edge banding to the front of the shelves, if desired.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the hutch back and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the hutch frame. Using a jigsaw, cut the arc in the 1x6 piece as shown. Drill pocket holes in each end of the horizontal pieces and assemble the frame as indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the frame to the hutch with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 9
Step 9
Step 10
Cut the piece for the hutch top. Apply edge banding, if desired, and attach to the hutch with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and frame.
Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower trim. Attach as indicated with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Paulette Server
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Do not attach the drawer faces until the drawer  boxes have been installed and adjusted! Install the drawer slides in the console (the hutch drawer will not have drawer slides) according to the manufacturer’s instructions placing them ¾” back from the opening face to allow for the fronts. Make any adjustments necessary.

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Drill the holes for the handle or knob placement. Shim in place in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and drill a temporary screw through the holes into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers and secure the fronts to the boxes from the insides with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handle or knob.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Paulette Server
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Paulette Server
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! 

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

This bed is an absolute stunner! Just gorgeous... a little bit feminine and bit masculine, with good strong bones and a very expensive demeanor! I can't wait to see a showcase for this fine specimen!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 8 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x10 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x4 at 6’
  • 12 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 2 – 4x4 posts at 6’
  • 8 – 4x4 post finials or furniture feet
Materials
  • 1½” pocket hole screws
  • 1¼” pocket hole screws
  • 1 ¼” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Bed rail hardware – I recommend Rockler part no. 32077
  • 8 post finials or furniture feet to fit on a 4x4 post
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 12 – 1x4 at 50” – Headboard and Footboard Centers
  • 1 – 2x10 at 50” – Headboard Top
  • 3 – 2x4 at 50” – Headboard and Foot board pieces
  • 1 – 1x3 at 50” – Footboard Cap
  • 2 – 1x10 at 75” – Side Rails
  • 2 – 1x2 at 71-1/2” – Slat Supports
  • 8 – 1x3 at 54” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the 1x4 pieces for the headboard and footboard centers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown in the drawings. Eight of these pieces will be for the headboard center and three will be for the footboard center. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the curved piece for the headboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Center the straight end on the headboard center and attach to the assembly with glue and 1-1/2” pocket screws. Cut the 2x4 piece for the bottom, drill pocket holes in each end,  and attach in the same manner.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the 2x4 pieces for the footboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end.  Assemble with glue and 1-1/2” pocket screws. Cut the 1x3 piece for the cap. Center the cap over the top of the footboard assembly and fasten in place with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

The length of the headboard and footboard posts will depend on the height of the post finials or feet you choose. Maintain the 52-1/2” height for the headboard and the 32” height for the footboard. Attach the finials to the posts according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Both the headboard and the footboard will be fastened to the posts with glue and 1-1/2” screws, maintaining a 9” distance from the floor to the bottom.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side rails and the slat supports.  Locate the slat support as shown in the drawing. Fasten to the side rails with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Attach bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s directions maintaining a 54” distance between the side rails.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the slats. With the slats evenly spaced, secure to the slat support with countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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