Jul
22
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Abigail Desk, complete with fold down extension!! Yahoo, right? Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill             
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 – full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge Banding
  • 6 small cabinet pulls
  • 1 larger cabinet pull
  • 1 set of 14” drawer slides
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 14-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 5-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 4 – 1x2 at 25” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 25” – Back Panel
  • 2 – 1x2 at 5-1/2” – Drawer Spacers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Spacers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 29” – Desk Top
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/4” x 7-3/4” – Hutch Dividers
  • 3 - ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 8” – Hutch Shelves
  • 3 – ½” plywood at 7-3/4” x 8” – Hutch Shelves
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 7-1/4” x 27” – Hutch Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 28” – Hutch Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 21” – Large Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 12-1/2”- Large Drawer Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 22-1/2” – Large Drawer Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/4” x 23-1/4” – Large Drawer Front
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/4” x 6-1/4” – Small Drawer Bottoms
  • 12 – ¾” plywood at 2-7/8” x 6-1/4” – Small Drawer Sides
  • 12 – ¾” plywood at 2-7/8” x 7-3/4” – Small Drawer Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 29” - Extension
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Secure the frame pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face away from the panel opening (and won’t have to be filled). Insert the panel then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making the back side of the panel flush with the inside of the frame.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the back frame and back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Secure the frame pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face away from the panel opening (and won’t have to be filled). Insert the panel then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making the back side of the panel flush with the inside of the frame.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws orienting the pocket holes away from the opening.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers. Attach the vertical spacers to the legs inside the front stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the horizontal spacers inside the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The front and sides will overlap by ½”.

Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the hutch dividers and drill pocket holes in the bottom edge of each piece. Secure to the desk top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the hutch shelves. The ¾” shelves will be secured to the desk using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in one side only of each ½” shelf. Secure the shelves one at a time by securing the end with the pocket holes into the divider first, then securing the other side with 1-1/4” brad nails until all three shelves have been installed.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the hutch back and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the hutch top and secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The front and sides will overlap by ½”.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the larger drawer. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer sides, as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble the drawer as shown, then install the drawer sides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer slides, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Cut the piece for the drawer front and drill the holes for the position of the cabinet pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. Finish drilling the holes for the cabinet pull, then install the pull.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the small drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer sides, as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble the drawer as shown. They should fit in the opening with a 1/8” gap at the sides and top.

Step 9
Step 9
Step 10

Cut the piece for the extension. Position on the desk top, then install the hinges.

Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
19
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Portsmouth Cocktail Table. Well I promised you guys a table, though this isn't the table I was referring to! But I liked this plan so much I decided to wing it and share it first! Yahoo! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 6 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for drawer fronts, optional
  • 2 sets of 24” drawer slides
  • 2 cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 18-1/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 25” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 25” – Side Panels
  • 4 – 1x2 at 44” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 44” – Back Panel
  • 3 – 1x2 at 4” – Drawer Dividers
  • 3 – 1x2 at 25” – Drawer Spacers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 26” x 45” – Top Panel
  • 2 – 1x2 at 25” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 48” – Top Frame
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-3/8” x 22-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 22-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 19-7/8” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 20-5/8” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the tapers in each side (opposite of each other) as shown using a jigsaw, a bandsaw, or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Cut the pieces for the side frames and panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Position the frame pieces on the leg with the leg tapers facing to the side and the pocket holes facing away from the panel opening. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the panel inside the frame with the back face flush with the inside of the frame then secure using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame and the back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Position the frame pieces on the leg with the pocket holes facing away from the panel opening. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the panel inside the frame with the back face flush with the inside of the frame then secure using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the stretchers on the leg with the pocket holes facing away from the panel opening. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top and the bottom.

Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers. Drill pocket holes in each end of one piece only. Secure this piece to the center divider and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the outer drawer spacers to the side panels using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the top panel and frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Secure the side frame pieces to the sides of the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then secure the remaining frame pieces in the same manner.

Position the top on the table frame so that ½” overlaps on all sides. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions positioning them ¾” back from the front edge. For an easy tutorial on drawer slide installation, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts and drill the holes for the position of the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here. Finish drilling the holes for the hardware and install the cabinet pulls.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
15
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Small Hutch with Drawers. We are jumping around a bit, with our furniture plan collections, but today we are revisiting a set of plans from the Original Office Collection! A HUGE collection of pieces, found here, that you can mix and match till your heart's content! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber

 

  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 full sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials

 

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood edges, optional
  • Four cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

 

  •  2 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Feet
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 43-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 44-1/2” - Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 40-3/4” x 44-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 44-1/2” – Stretcher
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 44-1/2” – Shelves
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 7” x 10-1/2” – Drawer Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 48” – Top
  • 2 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Side Trim
  • 1 – 1x2 at 47-1/2” – Front Trim
  • 8 – ¾” plywood at 6-7/8” x 10-5/16” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 8 – ¾” plywood at 6-7/8” x9” – Drawer Sides
  • 4 – ¾”plywood at 8-13/16” x 9” – Drawer Bottoms
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and feet. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each side. Attach the feet to the bottom using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The side pieces will be positioned at the center of each foot.

Step 1
Step 2

 

 Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in the bottom edge only of each piece. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 4
Step 5

 

 Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Insert a few brad nails through the lowest shelf into the drawer dividers to secure the top of them.

Step 5
Step 6

 

 Cut the piece for the stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretcher will be flush with the outside edge of the sides.

Step 6
Step 7

 

 Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overlap by 1”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the sides and back.

Step 7
Step 8

 

Cut the pieces for the trim. Rout a decorative edge along one long edge of each piece if desired. Position the sides first and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front in the same manner. A mitered corner will be used if routing a decorative edge. Adjust the length of the sides accordingly. Store-bought trim can also be used.

Step 8
Step 9

 

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Apply a coat of paste wax on the bottom of each drawer as well as inside the cubbies where the drawers are located. This will allow the drawers to slide smoothly. Attach the cabinet hardware.

Step 9
Step 9
Step 9
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
11
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Chloe Coffee Table, by special reader request! If you have a request for a special set of plans, please feel free to post it here with a link! You will need a member account to do this, but I have opened registration so you no longer need my permission to have your account approved, yay!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at6’
  • 2  sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 17-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x4 at 21-13/16” – End Aprons
  • 2 – 1x4 at 51-13/16” – Side Aprons
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-9/16” x 52-9/16” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 26” x 56” – Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.  Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the curves using a jigsaw or a bandsaw, then clamp the pieces together and sand at once which makes them practically identical! 

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the aprons and cut 45 degree miters in each end. To drill the pocket holes, clamp a Kreg jig (preferably a “mini”) on the end of the board with the miter facing up and drill the pocket holes for ¾” material. Repeat this step for each end of all four aprons. Position the aprons ½” back from the front face of the legs then secure using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut the angle using a jigsaw and drill pocket holes as shown. Position the shelf on the leg approximately 3-1/4” up from the floor then secure using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the piece for the top. Place a soup can at the corner to draw the radius for the table, then cut using a jigsaw. Position the top so that 1” overhangs the aprons then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jun
19
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pickford Cabinet, with two drawers and four cubbies with doors.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Router with a rabbeting bit to cut a 3/8” wide by ¼” deep rabbet
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
  • Hammer
  • Wood Chisel
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 1 half sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1/2” brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 4 sets of non-mortise hinges
  • 12 cabinet pulls
  • 2 door handles
  • Glass or acrylic cut to fit inside glass door frames
  • 4 bun feet at 3” tall plus plates for installation
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 13-3/4” x 31-1/2” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 48-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 11-1/2” x 48-1/2” – Divider
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 13-7/8” – Shelves
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 10-1/4” x 12-5/8” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 7-7/16” x 10-1/4” – Drawer Sides
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 7-7/16” x 13-5/8” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 12 – ¼” plywood at 6-3/4” x 7-7/16” – False Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 13-5/8” x 15-3/8” – Doors
  • 4 – 1x2 at 10-5/8” – Door Rails
  • 4 – 1x2 at 23-5/8” – Door Stiles
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 20-5/8” – Glass Door Divider
  • 8 – ½” plywood at 4-9/16” – Glass Door Divider
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Position the sides on the bottom so that they are ¾” in from each side, and ¾” away from the front and back edges. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position the back between the side pieces so that the outside face is flush with the back edge of the sides. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the back edge. Position as shown in the drawing then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the back edge. Position as shown in the drawing then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws with ¾” overlapping on all sides.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes and the false drawer fronts. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom, as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer as shown using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Position the false drawer fronts as shown then secure using glue and ½” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the doors. The false drawer fronts will be positioned so they overhang the top and bottom of the door by about 1/16”. Secure using glue and ½” brad nails. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions. 

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the glass door frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the ¾” rails locating the holes so that the router bit will not interfere with the screws. Secure the rails to the stiles using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using the router and the rabbeting bit, cut a rabbet on the inside of the frame for the glass. Use a hammer and a chisel to square the corners.

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the divider pieces. Secure the dividers to the frame so that the outside face is flush with the outside face of the frame (the glass will rest on top of the dividers) using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Secure the glass using a bead of silicone caulk on the inside of the rabbet.

Install all of the cabinet pulls and handles as desired.

Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jun
17
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection Three Drawer Cabinet! The components in this collection can be mixed and matched. To see the other pieces we have published so far, click here or select Original Office Collection from the drop down menu on the plans page. Don't forget, you can also request plans by posting a link and or an image here. Don't be shy, we welcome your requests, questions and even cool building tricks you have learned. Join the community and chat it up! 

The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. **

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Brad nailer
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • 3 sets of 18” drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 16-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 20” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 24” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 20-3/4” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 17-5/8” - Trim
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 4-9/16” x 17-1/4” – Small Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-9/16” x 14-7/8” – Small Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-9/16” x 16-5/8” – Small Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Large Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 14-7/8” – Large Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 11-3/8” x 16-5/8” – Large Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer opening by 3/8” on the sides, and ¼” at the top and bottom.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. 

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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