Jan
15
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Lockers

***Single locker requires 2 sheets of plywood. If building two lockers, a total of three sheets will be required (there will be enough of the second sheet left over to create parts for the second locker).***

The Deets

You can see above how these pieces will work together once you build a few! Any configuration you want will be fabulous!!!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • Scrap of 1x4 at 14-1/2”
  • 2 full sheets of ¾”plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • One set of hinges
  • Cabinet pull or handle
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 67-3/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 15” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 63-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 16” – Top
  • 1 – 1x4 at 14-1/2” – Kick Plate
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 63-1/4” - Door
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site. Always make sure you buy easy to assemble furniture

Step 1

 If using edge banding, it will need to be applied before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edges of the sides, as well as the longer edges of the bottom. Position as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides and back into the underside of the top.

Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket hole in each end. The shelves will be positioned ¾” back from the front edge. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the door. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening. Install the hinges on the door, then attach to the cabinet. Install the cabinet pull or handle.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
14
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Cabinet with a Single Glass Door. We have covered quite a few pieces in this collection so far! Somehow I let this baby slide by unpublished, eek! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Router with 3/8” rabbeting bit
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One piece of trim at 3-1/2” wide by 16”
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • One set of hinges
  • One door pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 14-1/2” – Kick Plate
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 18-3/4” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 20-1/4” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 25-3/8” – Door Frame
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 10” – Door Frame
  • 1 – 3-1/2” trim at 16” – Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece.

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end then attach to the lower front edge using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge and secure to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the upper sides and back. The top will overlap by ¾”.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the door frame. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using the router and the rabbeting bit, rout the inside of the door frame (on the back) to allow for the glass.

Another option for attaching the glass would be to use glass clips to secure the glass to the back of the door frame (with no rabbet) but the shelves will need to be shortened to allow for the thickness of the glass and the clips.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

 

 Cut the piece for the trim then attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
11
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Whitney Project Table! I can think of a million projects I might do on this project table, and I think it would be the perfect workspace slash utilitarian space of some sort, especially since it has drawers! Yay for storage! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • 2 sets of 28” drawer slides
  • Drawer pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x2 at 35-1/4” – Legs
  • 9 – 1x2 at 31-1/2” – Side Frames & Slide Supports
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 31-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 4 – 1x2 at 41-1/2” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 31-1/2” – Back Panel
  • 1 – 1x2 at 42-1/4” – Lower Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 5-3/4” – Front Dividers
  • 2 – 2x2 at 5-3/4” – Front Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 38” x 60” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/8” x 27-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 27-1/4” –Drawer Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 17-7/8” –Drawer Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 18-5/8” – Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out (one set toward the top and one set toward the bottom). This is so they will be hidden and won’t have to be filled!

Attach the side panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the lower stretcher as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the pocket holes so they are facing to the inside.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out.

Attach the back assembly to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top stretcher should be positioned so the pocket holes are facing up while the lower stretcher is positioned so the pocket holes face down.

Attach the lower stretcher at the center of the lower side stretchers. The piece can be positioned so the pocket holes face down.

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Attach to the front stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the stretchers into the dividers.

Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Drill pocket holes  in each end of each piece. Position them as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws into the front dividers and the back panel.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, it will need to be applied to the top before the top is secured. The sides will overlap by 1-3/4” at the front and back, and 7-3/4” at each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the side panels, back panel, and front stretcher.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Apply edge banding to all four edges of the front, if desired. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the side pieces to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Then attach the front and back pieces. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Install the knobs or handles.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
19
2012
Project Image
Project Details

I'm really excited for this modular collection of pieces! I pretty much love anything that can be mixed and matched for a custom look and these Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Olivia Modular Components for the Bench are the beginnings of exactly that! yahoo... Xx Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x2 at6’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood, if desired
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 22-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/2” x 51-1/4” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 51-1/4” – Top & Bottom
  • 3 – 1x2 at 12-1/2” – Bottom Supports
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 20-1/4” – Dividers
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 12-1/2” – Shelves
  • 3 – 1x2 at 51-1/4” – Front Aprons
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the back. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position the bottom ¾” up from the bottom edge of the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Attach as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The dividers will be ¾” shorter than the sides. 

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as the back edge. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Also use pocket hole screws through the holes in the top of the dividers into the underside of the top.

Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the front aprons. Attach to the front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws. 

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
13
2012
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Bookcase

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One piece of trim at 3-1/2” wide by 16”
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 14-1/2” – Kick Plate
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 18-3/4” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 20-1/4” – Top
  • 1 – 3-1/2” trim at 16” – Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece.

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end then attach to the lower front edge using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge and secure to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the upper sides and back. The top will overlap by ¾”.

Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the piece for the trim then attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
12
2012
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Joss & Main Foxton Bar & Game Table

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • 4” hole saw
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 3’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 3 pieces of trim (at least 4” wide) at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the exposed edges of the plywood, optional
  • 4’ Continuous hinge for top
  • 2 pairs of hinges for supports
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 53-1/4” – Base Frame
  • 5 – 1x4 at 22-3/4” – Base Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 24-1/4” x 54-1/4” – Base Top
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 34-1/2” – Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 34-1/2” x 50-1/4” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 15” – Shelves
  • 2 – 1x4 at 15” – Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x4 at 17-1/4” – Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7” x 15-3/4” – Wine Rack
  • 4 – 1x2 at 12” – Wine Rack Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 12” – Supports
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 53-1/4” – Top
  • 2 – trim pieces for top – cut to size
  • 1 – trim piece for top front – cut to size
  • 2 – trim pieces for base sides – cut to size
  • 2 – trim pieces for base front & back – cut to size
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the base top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long end. Attach to the base as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the bottom edge. Attach to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws then secure to the base through the pocket holes in the bottom edge.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the sides as well as the back edge. Attach to the dividers and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the wine rack. For the bottle supports, drill holes using a 4” hole saw across the center of the main piece, then cut the piece in half. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece and attach to the 1x2 supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position in the center cubby of the bar and attach to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the supports. Attach hinges to the back of each piece, then attach the hinges to the bar back.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the top. Both top pieces will overhang all sides by 1”. Attach the continuous hinge to the front edge, then attach the hinge to the second top piece. The second top piece will fold over the first top piece then fold out onto the supports to play games!

Step 9
Step 9
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the trim. Measure and cut the side pieces first, then attach with 1-1/4” brad nails. Measure and cut the front piece, and attach in the same manner.

Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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