May
10
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection Open Shelf Cabinet! 

** The components can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. **

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Brad nailer
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 26-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 26-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 26-1/8” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 26-1/8” – Back
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 19-1/4” x 26-1/8” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 27-5/8” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 27-5/8” – Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Apr
26
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Original Office Collection Two Drawer Cabinet! ** The components can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. **

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Brad nailer
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • 2 sets of 18” drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 16-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 20” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 24” – Back
  • 2 - ¾” plywood at 1-1/2" x 16-1/8" - Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 20-3/4” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 17-5/8” - Trim
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Bottom
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 14-7/8” – Drawer Back
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 11-3/8” x 16-5/8” – Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole acrews.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer opening by 3/8” on the sides, and ¼” at the top and bottom.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. 

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Apr
08
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Melrose Nesting Tables! Whether you use them stacked together or spread them out, these stylish tables will add a bit of glam to any space!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • 1” Paddle bit or hole saw
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

Small Table –

  • 2 – 1x4 at 13” - Sides
  • 4 – 1x2 at 18-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16” – Side Bottom
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12-1/4” – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x4 at 12-1/4” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 15-1/4” - Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 16” - Top
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 1-3/4” x 12” – Drawer Sides, Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 12” – Drawer Bottom

Medium Table –

  • 2 – 1x4 at 14” - Sides
  • 4 – 1x2 at 23” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Side Bottom
  • 2 – 1x2 at 14-3/4” – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/4” x 16-1/4” - Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 17” - Top
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 1-3/4” x 13” – Drawer Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-3/4” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 13” – Drawer Bottom

Large Table –

  • 2 – 1x4 at 15” - Sides
  • 4 – 1x2 at 27-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 18” – Side Bottom
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17-1/4” – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x4 at 17-1/4” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 17-1/4” - Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 18-3/4” - Top
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 1-3/4” x 15” – Drawer Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-3/4” x 17” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 15-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Each table is constructed in the same manner.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one end of each leg, as well as each end of the 1x4 piece. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the front stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the top of the front legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in three edges (to attach to the sides and back). Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the drawer. Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the front and back. Drill a 1” hole at the center of the front, approximately 1” down from the top edge. Attach the front and back to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Apr
03
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jacqueline Bedside Table. Oh this little lady is gorgeous, isn't she? I love the delicate curves paired with her substantial form. A fabulous addition to any room! Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 2 – 3/8” thick craft boards at 2-1/2” wide x 3’
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Half sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 3/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1 – Set of 20” Drawer slides
  • 1 – Drawer pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x6 ay 19-1/2” – Sides
  • 3 – 1x2 at 31-1/2” – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x6 at 31-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – 3/8” material at 2-1/2” x 19-1/2” – Slide Fillers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 23” x 35-1/2” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 29” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 19-1/4” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 30-1/2” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 31=1/4” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 6-1/4” x 20” – Hutch Sides
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 6-1/4” x 34-1/2” – Hutch Back
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 2-1/2” x 8-1/2” – Hutch Dividers
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 8-1/2” x 34-1/2” – Hutch Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 34-1/2” – Hutch Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs, stretchers,  and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side and stretcher pieces. Center on the legs, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back and back stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end. Center on the legs, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide fillers. Attach to the sides as shown using countersunk ¾” screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, legs, back, and stretchers.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes on all four edges of the bottom, as well as each end of the drawer sides. Attach the sides to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the drawer back in the same manner. The drawer front will overlap the sides of the drawer box by 3/8” at each side. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the hutch sides. Cut an arc in each piece maintaining the dimensions as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the lower edge of each piece. Keep in mind there will be a right and a left piece.

Cut the piece for the hutch back and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the bottom edge. Attach using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the hutch dividers. Drill pocket holes in one edge only of each piece. Position two of the dividers and shown then secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Set the other two dividers aside.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the hutch shelf. Attach to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, as well as through the sides into the shelf.

Attach the other two dividers as shown using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, and through the sides and back into the shelf.

Step 9
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Apr
01
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free Plans to Build a gorgeous Farmhouse Bed! A simple build with sturdy lines and amazing style! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 3x3 at 8’
  • 7 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 16 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 sheets  of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 3x3 at 48-1/2” – Headboard Legs
  • 3 – 2x3 at 60-1/2” – Headboard Panel & Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 29” x 60-1/2” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 1x4 (ripped to 3” wide) at 66-1/2” – Headboard & Footboard Trim
  • 2 – 1x4 at 67-1/2” – Headboard & Footboard Trim
  • 2 – 3x3 at 19-1/2” – Footboard Legs
  • 2 – 2x3 at 60-1/2” – Footboard Panel
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 60-1/2” – Footboard Panel
  • 4 – 2x3 at 79-1/2” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 79-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1x2 at 79-1/2 – Slat Supports
  • 1 – 2x2 at 79-1/2” – Center Support
  • 2 – 2x2 at 7” – Center Support
  • 16 – 1x3 at 60-1/2” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs. Cut the angle as shown using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

Cut the pieces for the headboard panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2x3 pieces as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Insert the plywood panel and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the legs and 2x3 pieces.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the headboard trim. The front and sides of each trim piece will overlap by ½”. Secure each piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the footboard legs. Cut the angle as shown using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

Cut the pieces for the footboard panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2x3 pieces as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Insert the plywood panel and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the legs and 2x3 pieces.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the footboard trim. The front and sides of each trim piece will overlap by ½”. Secure each piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2x3s to the plywood using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the 2x3 pieces.

Attach the slat support using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the slat supports will be flush with the bottom of the sides.

Secure the sides to the legs as shown using 2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue – the bed may need to be disassembled (plus it has to fit through the door!).

Step 5
Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the center support. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer support, as well as one end of each leg piece. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Attach to the center of the headboard stretcher and footboard using 2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue!

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the slats. Position them, evenly spaced, and secure using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue!

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Mar
29
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Adjustable Twin to Full Bed! You guys are going to flip your lid over this project!!! Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 7 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 3 – 2x2 at 36” – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – 1x2 at 32” – Headboard Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 32” – Headboard Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-3/4” x 32” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 2x2 at 16-3/4” – Stops for Adjustable Panel
  • 1 – 1x2 at 17-1/2” – Adjustable Headboard Brace
  • 2 – 1x2 at 20-1/2” – Adjustable Headboard Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 25-3/4” – Adjustable Headboard Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 25-3/4” – Adjustable Headboard Panel
  • 3 – 2x2 at 18” – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – 1x2 at 32” – Footboard Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 32” – Footboard Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 32” – Footboard Panel
  • 1 – 2x2 at 16-3/4” – Adjustable Footboard Stop
  • 1 – 1x2 at 17-1/2” – Adjustable Footboard Brace
  • 2 – 1x2 at 20-1/2” – Adjustable Footboard Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 7-3/4” – Adjustable Footboard Panel
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 20-1/2” – Adjustable Footboard Panel
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 76” – Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 74-1/2” – Slat Supports
  • 15 – 1x3 at 39-1/2” (for twin) or 54-1/2” (for full) - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the headboard. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 piece and the 2x2 piece, as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Assemble as shown using glue and pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the adjustable headboard stops and brace. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each piece. Position as shown then secure using glue and pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the adjustable headboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x2 piece. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Place the adjustable headboard on the brace and secure in place as shown with a few countersunk screws through the brace into the adjustable piece.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the footboard. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 piece and the 2x2 piece, as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Assemble as shown using glue and pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the adjustable headboard stops and brace. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each piece. Position as shown then secure using glue and pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the adjustable footboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x2 piece. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Place the adjustable footboard on the brace and secure in place as shown with a few countersunk screws through the brace into the adjustable piece.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut the notch using a jigsaw. Note that one side of the notch is longer than the other side. Because of the way the headboard and the footboard sit, there will be no left and right so when drilling the pocket holes, refer to the drawing and drill in the position shown. Attach to the headboard and footboard using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue!

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the slat supports. Secure to the bottom of the sides using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Cut the pieces for the slats – 39-1/2” long for a twin bed or 54-1/2” long for a full bed. There is a 1” space between the slats. Secure to the supports using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. DO NOT use glue!

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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