Traditional

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Kids Inspired Carolina Small Table

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

This is a simple and quick table for the little ones, where they can create, pretend, or have their own “kids’ table” to eat at!

Estimated Cost

Between $40 - $65.00

Dimensions

Tools

Safety Gear

Tape Measure

Drill

Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter

Sander

Kreg Jig

Lumber

1-3x3 Post* at 8’

2-1x3 at 8’

Half sheet of ¾” plywood

*If 3x3 posts are not available in your area or are too expensive, 1x3 lumber can be face-glued to a 2x3 to create the posts. Keep in mind that the depth will differ by 1/4” so the aprons will need to be adjusted accordingly (add a 1/2").

* You will need to purchase one additional 1x3 at 8' as well as one 2x3 at 8' if you are face gluing for the legs.

Materials

1 1/4” pocket hole screws

Wood Filler

Wood Glue

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 3x3 at 21 1/4” Legs

2 - 1x3 at 26” Long Aprons*

2 - 1x3 at 17” Short Aprons

2 - 1x3 at 20 1/2” Table Top Supports

1 - 3/4" ply at 24” x 33” Top

** If making your own posts from 1x3 and 2x3 lumber, add ½” the length of the aprons.

Instructions

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Using the saw of your choice, cut the posts to the length indicated.

Step 2

Cut the apron pieces as listed above (add 1/2" if face gluing boards to create legs) and add pocket holes to each end (set for 3/4" stock). Two at each end will be sufficient. Also add pocket holes to one long end of each of the 17” aprons to secure the table top. (These will face to the inside.) Attach the aprons flush with the front of the legs using the 1 1/4” pocket hole screws. Don’t forget to use glue for an extra strong joint!

Step 3

Cut the top supports and add pocket holes to each end. Also add pocket holes to one long end of each board to secure the table top. Space the supports on the long aprons as indicated and secure with glue/screws.

Step 4

Cut the table top to the measurements indicated. The top will hang over the table by 1” on each side. Secure to table frame using 1 1/4” pocket hole screws through pocket holes drilled on long sides of 17” aprons and supports.
Add nail-on furniture glides to bottom of legs, if desired. I’ve also used adjustable glides on my tables.
To finish the edges of the tabletop, use iron-on edge banding or sand the edges and leave them exposed.

Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability..
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly on the legs and aprons, and brush-on poly for the top for added durability.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Comments

Free DIY Plans to Build a Jumbo Framed Chalkboard

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Project Details

This project will be pretty easy and have such a fun and big impact result! I know how you all love a good chalkboard plan...

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure

Safety Gear

Drill

Saw

Miter Saw or Box

Nail Gun

Lumber

1 sheet - 3/4" ply or Mdf

3 - 1x3 at 6'

3 - 1 1/2" Crown Molding at 6'

Materials

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

1 1/4" Wood Screws

1 1/4" Finish Nails

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Chalkboard Paint

Cut List

1 - 3/4" ply or mdf at 28 1/2" x 64 1/2"

2 - 1 1/2" Molding at 28 1/2"

2 - 1 1/2" Molding at 64 1/2"

2 - 1x3 at 28 1/2"

2 - 1x3 at 66"

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the Chalkboard to Size and Fasten the Top Trim in Place: Paint the Chalkboard itself first so you don't have to worry about painting around the Molding later. Then begin by attach the Top Trim to it using either 1 1/4" Wood Screws or Nails and glue. The Trim will sit flush with the back side of the chalkboard and protrude toward the front.

Step 2

Attach the Side Trim: Use 1 1/4" Screws or Nails and Glue to fasten the Side Trim to the Top and Bottom Trim and the Chalkboard.

Step 3

Miter or Cope your Molding and Fasten in Place: Use your 1 1/4" Finish Nails and glue to secure to each other and to the Trim Pieces and Chalkboard.

This can be mounted and hung using hardware or leaned against a wall! Enjoy...

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

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Comments

Free Woodworking Plans to Make an Entry Way Locker System

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Project Details

I have been soooo excited to share this plan with you guys and even more excited to finish this project! To say that shoes, and keys, and coats, and other random things have been taking over my house is a major understatement!

I was inspired by Ana's plan for a Mud Room Locker System, in fact it might be my favorite plan of hers to date!

But I don't have a mud room, or an extra closet to transform into a mudroom. *Sad Face*

Free Woodworking Plans to Make an Entry Way Locker System

I do however have exactly the depth of a 1x10 between my front door frame and the wall! Score!

To say I am lucky to have this space is also an understatement, major...

Yahoo.

Enter stage right for this set of plans. I wanted something similar to Ana's, but it needed to be no more than 10 3/4" deep and couldn't be more than 42" wide to fit perfectly in this space. And that's precisely what this is, and plan for a Faux Mud Room with a narrow profile! I couldn't be happier with the end result, and I hope this might benefit some of you!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Tools

Tape Measure

Safety Gear

Drill

Jig Saw

Kreg Jig

Saw

Nail Gun

Lumber

2 - 1x2 at 8'

1 - 1x2 at 6'

1 - 1x3 at 8'

2 - 1x10 at 8'

1 - 1x10 at 6'

1 - 1x8 at 8'

1 - 1x8 at 4'

1 - 3/4" trim at 8' - optional

Materials

1 1/4" OR 2" Wood Screws (either will work)

2" Drywall Screws

1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws

1 1/4" Finish Nails

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

3 - 1x2 at 42" Face Frame Trim

3 - 1x2 at 16 1/2" Face Frame Trim Bottom

3 - 1x2 at 14 1/2" Face Frame Trim Top

2 - 1x3 at 42" Coat Rack and Cleat

3 - 1x10 at 42" Top and Bottom Box

3 - 1x10 at 16" Top Box

3 - 1x10 at 17" Bottom Box

3 - 1x8 at 47" Decorative Panels

2 - 3/4" trim at 42" - optional

Instructions

Step 1

Build the Bottom Bench Seat Box: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" Pocket hole screws and glue.

**You can trim out your box in this step if it's easier for you. See step 6 for dimensions. I typically do this at the end so that I can use the trim to disguise flaws or correct issues with my pieces not being perfectly square etc.

Step 2

Build the Top Box: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 3

Create your Decorative Center Panels: You need 3 of these, and you will use your jig saw to cut the shape as shown below. Of course you can also use any shape you like.

Place your pocket holes in the top and bottom of each panel to secure to your boxes in the next step. You will set your Kreg Jig for 3/4" stock.

Step 4

Attach the Decorative Panels to you Top and Bottom Boxes: Use your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to attach at the outside and center of the boxes.

Step 5

Add the Cleat and Coat Rack: Secure your 1x3 across the back and attach to your Decorative Panels using 1 1/4" or 2" Wood Screws and Glue. This is how you will secure your unit to the wall ultimately, and it will also help you support and stabilize your unit since it's not built in.

Step 6

Trim out your Top and Bottom Boxes: Use 1 1/4" Finish Nails and Glue. You can also do this after you build the boxes, I simply prefer to have everything in place before I trim so that I might use the trim to correct any issues with being squared up or uneven cuts etc.

At this point you can also attach molding along the top of the face frames for both the boxes. I chose not to only because I didn't have any on hand, and I had everything else... See I'm lazy! Whatyagonnado...

Step 13

I scoured the interwebs for days looking for inspiration on a project to contain my crazy shoe and coat mess. I found Ana's project on Pinterest and modified it for my needs! Are you on Pinterest? Do you find your best inspiration there too? Why not take the Pinterest Challenge... I did! Thanks Young House Love, Bower Power, Ana White, and House of Earnest for the kick in the pants... I needed it, and I'm so glad I finished this project, it saved my DIY Sanity...

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

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Free Woodworking Plans to Build an Ann Marie Twin Daybed with Storage

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Project Details

Pretty sure this bed speaks for itself. Just in case it doesn't... think ample storage, designer style, and simplicity of design all make this bed a fabulous solution for any of your kiddo's or perhaps a guest room that needs a bed to double as a sitting area as well. Did I mention it was easy to build? That's right, the most difficult part of this plan will be installing the drawer tracks! Pretty sure you guys are all capable of that, so we should be just fine!

I chose to "paint" this bed one of my favorite colors...we shall call it Grange. Many of you are familiar with greige and I know you love it as much as I do, this is a variation of greige with a bit of green, hence...grange (I am open to other name possibilities)!

This particular plan is meant to be painted, and uses MDF to allow for smooth paint application, however if you prefer a natural look for this bed, you can use premium plywood for the main components or connect dimensional lumber using a Kreg Jig to join each board, and then carve with a jig saw to create the curved sides. Either option would be stunning.

Tools

Tape Measure

Square

Sander - or a Sanding Block, this will help smooth your edges so the pieces fit flush with each other.

Saw - to cut your pieces to size

Jig Saw - to create the curved sides.

Drill

Nail Gun for Finish Nails or Finish Nail Set and Hammer.

Lumber

6 - Sheets of 3/4" MDF or 5 sheets and 1 sheet of 3/4" Ply if cheaper. A sheet is typically 4'x8'.

1 - 1x3 @ 8'

6 - 1x2 @ 8'

5 - 1x2 @ 10'

1 - 1x8 @ 8'

3 - 1x8 @ 10'

Materials

2" Screws

1 1/4" Screws

1 1/4" Finish Nails

Drawer Pulls (3) of your choice ** you may need to replace the screws that come with them for longer screws to ensure you can mount through 2 sheets of MDF (depth).

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Spackle

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

1 - 3/4" Sheet of MDF @ 75 x 40 3/4" (Back)

2 - 3/4" Sheet of MDF @ 40 1/4 x 40 3/4" (Sides)

1 - 3/4" Sheet of MDF @ 77 x 18 1/4" (Front)

2 - 3/4" Sheet of MDF @ 75 1/2 x 10" (Inner Box front and back)

4 - 3/4" Sheet of MDF @ 38 x 10" (Sides and Supports for inner box)

2 - 3/4" Sheet of MDF @ 36 x 21" (Outside Drawer Bottoms)

1 - 3/4" Sheet of MDF @ 36 x 22 1/2" (Inside Drawer Bottom)

1 - 3/4" Ply or 3/4" MDF (whichever is cheaper for you) @ 75 1/2 x 39 1/2" (Bed Slats, singular)

1 - 1x3 @ 78 1/2" (Top Trim - Back)

6 - 1x2 @ 38" (Drawer Slides)

3 - 1x2 @ 75 1/2" (Bottom Trim - Back and outer trim for Back),

2 - 1x2 @ 78 1/2" (Top Trim - Front and Bottom Trim Front),

2 - 1x2 @ 41" (Side Panel Bottom Trim),

4 - 1x2 @ 40 3/4" (Outside Back Trim and Side Trim),

2 - 1x2 @ 38 3/4" (Side Panel Trim),

2 - 1x2 @ 21 1/2" (Interior Back Trim),

4 - 1x2 @ 18 1/4" (Front Trim and Side Trim),

2 - 1x2 @ 16 3/4" (Front Trim),

6 - 1x8 @ 36" (Drawers)

6 - 1x8 @ 22 1/2" (Outside Drawers)

3 - 1x8 @ 23" (Inside Drawer)

Instructions

** You have the option to cut 2 - 1.5" wide strip in the same arc as your sides to add trim to the top of the sides.

Step 1

Attach the Back to a 1x2 leaving a 3/4" overhang on what will be the Back Side (outside). Use 2" Screws and Glue to attach.

Step 2

Carve the arc from the Side panels. Use a jig saw and abide by the required dimensions shown below. Otherwise this arc is subjective and entirely up to you as to how you shape it. Leave 1 1/2" on the upper inside portion of the side panel and 3/4" of the lower outside portion of the arc to accommodate trim later. Make sure your outside edge remains at 17 1/2" to align properly with the front piece and surround the mattress as designed.

Step 3

Attach the Side Panels to the back side. The Back and Side edges should be flush with each other. Attach the bottom trim leaving a 3/4" overhang on the backside and ensuring the bottom trim of the side panel is flush with the bottom trim of the back panel. Use 2" Screws and Glue.

Step 4

Begin building the interior box by cutting out the drawer openings to the box fascia

Step 5

Build the remainder of the box using the dimensions shown below. Use 2" Screws and Glue. Fasten the Drawer Slides in place. Use 2" Screws and glue through the front and back of the box to secure and place them 4" apart and roughly 2" from the midpoint of each opening.

Step 6

Trim out the interior of the Back and attach the Inner box to the back and side panels. Use 1 1/4" Screws and Glue to attach the box and 1 1/4" Finish Nails and glue to attach the trim.

Step 7

Begin constructing your drawers. You will need 2 different sizes of drawers since the outside drawers are 1/2" narrower than the inside drawer. You will need to construct 2 drawers with the dimensions below.

Fasten the drawer Face from the inside of the drawer front to avoid filling screw holes.

Step 8

Here are the measurements for the inside drawer, follow the steps from above only use these dimensions below.

Step 9

You can lay your plywood bed slat (singular) over the inner box at this point. You are welcome to fasten it to the box, but might want to consider leaving it unattached for removal and easy cleaning below.

Step 10

Cut the Front Panel to size as shown in the dimensions below. Leave a 3/4" Gap at the bottom to allow for the bottom trim in the next step. Fasten from the inside with 1 1/4" Screws and Glue.

Step 11

Trim out the front panel as shown below and attach the bottom trim leaving 3/4" overhang toward the front to allow for the front trim to sit flush against.

Free Woodworking Plans to Build an Ann Marie Twin Daybed with Storage

Step 12

Add the top trim to the front and trim out the back, then add the top trim to the back. Use 1 1/4" Finish nails and Glue.

Step 13

Add the top trim to the front and trim out the back, then add the top trim to the back. Use 1 1/4" Finish nails and Glue.

Finishing Instructions

**To finish this project well, run your finger along any exposed cut edges of the MDF (this will likely only be your arcs) with a thin layer of Spackle. Once it dries fully, you can sand it flush and finish as desired. Prime first, then paint and make sure to seal with a polyurethane. If you intend to paint a light color, an aerosol lacquer will be more ideal as it is just as durable but does not yellow in time as Poly does.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post, PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

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Comments

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Beadboard Snack Bar Console

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Project Details

This is a fun little project and I can only hope that one day I have a house big enough to have this sort of piece! Perfect for a dorm, or a game room, this fun little snack bar console is sure to be a blockbuster hit!

Estimated Cost

$50 - $100 depending on materials

Tools

Tape Measure

Drill

Kreg Jig - optional

Saw - optional

Nail Gun - optional

Lumber

1 sheet of 3/4" ply at 4'x8'

1/2 sheet of 1/4" ply at 4'x4' - optional for back

1/2 sheet of 1/2" ply at 4'x4'

3 - 2x2 at 8'

2 - 1x2 at 6' (if 8' furring strips are cheaper, purchase those)

2 - 1x4 at 8'

8' of 3/4" x 1/4" trim

1/2 sheet of beadboard (4'x4')at 1/4" thickness

Materials

Safety Gear

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

2 1/2" pocket hole screws OR wood screws

1 1/4" pocket hole screws OR wood screws

1" pocket hole screws

5/8" Finish Nails

2" Finish Nails

Cut List

1 - 3/4" Ply at 46 1/2" x 24 1/2" Top

1 - 3/4" ply at 43 1/2" x 23 1/2" Bottom

1 - 3/4" ply at 27 1/4" x 23 1/2" Center Divider

2 - 3/4" Ply at 25 3/4" x 20 1/2" Side Panels

2 - 1/2" ply at 20 1/2" x 18 7/8" Tray Bottoms

2 - 1/2" ply at 19 3/4" x 18 7/8" Drawer Bottoms

1 - 1/4" ply at 43 1/2" x 28" Back

1 - 2x2 at 43 1/2" Front Bottom Rail

4 - 2x2 at 20 1/2" Side Rails

4 - 2x2 at 30 3/4" Legs

4 - 1x2 at 20 1/2" Tray Sides

2 - 1x2 at 21 5/8" Tray Fronts

2 - 1x4 at 21 5/8" Drawer Fronts

4 - 1x4 at 20 1/2" Drawer Sides

2 - 1x4 at 18 7/8" Drawer Backs

4 - 3/4" x 1/4" Trim at 3 1/2" Drawer Trim

4 - 3/4" x 1/4" Trim at 20 1/8" Drawer Trim

2 - 1/4" Beadboard Panels at 25 3/4" x 20 1/2"

Instructions

Step 1

Build the Sides: Attach the Rails to the Side Panels and then to the Legs. Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws to attach the panels to the legs and rails. Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach the rails to the legs.

If you aren't using a KJ, fasten the legs and rails to the panels using 2 1/2" wood screws and glue. Be sure to countersink.

The Side Panels will sit flush with the inside of the legs and rails.

Step 2

Attach the Center Divider, Bottom, and Rail: Attach the bottom panel to the Lower Side Panel Rails using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue or your 2 1/2" wood screws. The bottom should sit flush with the top of the rails.

Then Attach the Center Divider to the Bottom Panel using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue, OR using your 1 1/4" wood screws and glue from underneath.

Tack on your Front Rail using your 2 1/2" screws and glue or 2" finish nails and glue.

Step 3

Construct the Trays: The Fronts will have an overhang of 3/4" on the inside edge (the one that will sit closest to the Center Divider) and 1/2" on the outside edge.

The front and sides are 1x2's and the bottom is 1/2" ply inset between the sides and front.

Use 16-18" side mount drawer slides for these, be sure they have no more than a 1/2" clearance on the sides.

Use your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" stock and your 1" pocket hole screws to attach the bottom to the sides, front, and back. Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws to attach the back to the sides, and the sides to the front.

Step 4

Build the Drawers: Just as in the previous step, the bottom will be inset to the 1x4 front, sides, and back. The Inside edge of the drawer front needs to overhang the sides by 3/4" and the outside edge needs to overhang the sides by 1/2". Your drawers will be opposites. The inside edges will be those edges that will sit closest to the Center Divider.

Glue and Nail on your Drawer Front Trim using your 5/8" finish nails.

Step 5

Attach the Top: The top is flush on the sides and back with an overhang on the front of 1". Use your 2" finish nails and glue to attach.

Step 6

Attach Beadboard Panels and Drawer Pulls: If you plan to use beadboard on the side panels, be sure the variety you purchase is no more than 1/4" thick. Glue and nail in place using 5/8" finish nails.

Step 7

Optional: Tack on the Back: Use glue and 5/8" finish nails to secure. If you prefer to leave the back open you may. If you do add the back, be sure to cut plug holes in appropriate places for a mini fridge or other appliances.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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Free Woodworking Plans to Build the Office Bookshelves Hutch

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Project Details

I have been so excited to share this project with you guys... and even more excited to check it off the list of 'things that needed to be done' around my home! I love the non-traditional use for this piece I have given it by placing it in my kitchen nook! But what a fabulous place for it! This is a duplicate of the Base Unit (found here) in my office, only this one has a hutch!

For those of you who need a refresher... this is what this room looked like before... Of course since this Nook faces my family room, you can probably see now (on this post here) where I am going with the blues, whites, grays, and that fabulous California Big Sur vibe... adore!

So what do you think... Bookshelves in the Dining Area? Books, and the beginnings of my Halloween Decor? It's different and kinda fabulous, don't you think?

Plans for the Base Unit can be found here!

Free Woodworking Plans to Build the Office Bookshelves Hutch

You can see that I haven't quite finished decorating them. I was just too excited to wait to share these with you!

If you are interested in browsing the other articles that show bits and pieces of my home, visit the Home Tour page found under the Living tab in my menu or click here.

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Tools

Tape Measure

Drill

Kreg Jig - optional can use countersink bit and screws

Miter Saw - optional for trim

Nail Gun - optional and can use hammer/finish nail set

Lumber

3 - 1x2 at 8'

1 - 1x2 at 6'

2 - 1x12 at 8'

1 - 1x12 at 6'

6 to 7' of 2" Crown Molding Trim in a style of your choice.

Materials

2" Finish Nails

1 1/4" pocket hole screws OR wood screws (depending on whether you are using a kreg jig or not).

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Safety Gear

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 - 1x2 at 46 1/2" Cleats

3 - 1x2 at 45" Face Frame Trim

2 - 1x2 at 42" Face Frame Trim

3 - 1x12 at 46 1/2" Shelves

2 - 1x12 at 42" Sides

1 - Crown Molding at 50-52"

2 - Crown Molding at 13-15"

Instructions

Step 1

Attach the Shelves to the Sides: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue or countersink for your 2" wood screws.

Step 2

Attach the Face Frame Trim: Use 2" finish nails and glue.

Step 3

Attach the Cleats: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue or countersink and use 2" wood screws.

Step 4

Fasten the Molding in place: Miter the front corners of your molding at 45 degrees and secure to the top of your unit using 2" finish nails and glue.

**The exact measurements will be determined by the style and size of the molding you choose so be sure to mark/measure for your exact piece!

Step 11

I'm linking this fine project up here and to Get your Craft on Tuesday

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

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Comments

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Traditional Base Unit Bookshelf

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Project Details

Another project I have been working on is a low set of shelves for my Office Craft Space! Ultimately all of the shelving will match in style, but for now, this shelf has a decidedly traditional sense about it!

Personally, nothing gets me going more than traditional shelving can! yahoo...

This build is really simple and can be modified to taste or tools available! Easy peasy...

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Traditional Base Unit Bookshelf

Aside from the obvious storage of books... this friend serves as tv storage and reference library for TDC headquarters! That's right, design and drafting books galore, right next to some of the classics and a rare book collection or two... Everything in a small home has got to serve multiple purposes and this is no exception.

I could have gone taller with this shelf. But after building this shelf here, for my craft and design supplies which is about 7' high, having another set of shelves that are equally tall in the same space is likely to make this teeny tiny room feel claustrophobic and not so comforting to work in.

As soon as I fully decide on any additional shelves for my Craft Space shelving, I will be trimming out the unit in similar fashion to this low shelf here!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Tools

Tape Measure

Drill

Sander

Miter Saw - if you plan on adding molding or trim at the top.

Kreg Jig - optional but will make your connections stronger and more professional

Nail Gun - optional and can use hammer and nail set.

Lumber

1 sheet of 3/4" Ply

2 - 1x2 at 8'

1 - 1x2 at 6'

7' - 8' of small trim or molding in a style of your choice. The amount you need will depend on the size of the molding. For smaller trim, you will need closer to 7' and this will increase with an increase in the size of the trim itself.

Materials

1 1/4" Wood Screws or Pocket Hole Screws

1 1/4" Finish Nails

Wood Filler

Wood Glue

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 - 3/4" Ply at 29 1/2" Sides

1 - 3/4" Ply at 48" Top

2 - 3/4" Ply at 46 1/2" Shelves

3 - 1x2 at 45" Shelf Trim

2 - 1x2 at 30 1/4" Side Trim

2 - trim/molding at 17 1/4" + up depending on the trim you choose.

1 - trim/molding at 49" + up depending on the trim you choose.

Cut List Image:

Instructions

Step 1

Attach the Top to the Sides: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue or your 1 1/4" Wood Screws and glue. Be sure to countersink if you aren't using a Kreg Jig.

Step 2

Attach the Shelves: Secure using your Kreg Jig Set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue or your 1 1/4" wood screws and glue. Be sure to countersink if you aren't using a Kreg Jig.

Step 3

Attach the Trim: Fasten using 1 1/4" finish nails and glue or secure trim pieces together using your kreg jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue and then secure to the unit using 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 4

Attach the Top Trim or Molding: Miter at the front corners and tack on using 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.

**This step will be a mark and measure step, meaning that the trim you choose will determine the side and front measurements since the larget the trim itself, the longer it will stick out in front and on the sides. This factor is important to note and cut to the proper dimensions by marking off and then cutting/mitering to size.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

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Comments

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Simple Craft Space Bookshelf

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Project Details

As some of you know, the TDC Headquarters has been a project in progress for months...

As a gal who typically works from home in the DIY and Design Blogging biz, you can imagine perhaps that I receive a decent amount of product coming through my doors. Without proper storage and organization of these items, things can get overwhelming quickly... not to mention lost and forgotten, never to be seen again until I have missed my deadline and created a very scattered blogging environment.

Enough is enough, you know what I mean? I have 20 or more projects going at any given time and it will continue on in this manner indefinitely as far as I can tell. Nothing to do but embrace it, and build myself a suitable home for all of these amazing things I have the pleasure of trying out and creating tutorials for. Better pleasure than pain, and boxes stacked in my entry, office, and garage is in fact quite painful to my mind and body (not fun to step on something or stub your darn toe walking in the door).

This project is what I will call a work in progress since I have been slowly adding to the shelving as I determine it's best and brightest use... Who knows...in time, I may end up with 32 shelves on this baby and be perfectly content! or not... whatyagonnado?

Now this isn't one of this projects that is perfectly styled and looking like it's right out of a catalog or magazine..nope this baby is going to be used in real life by me and so it needs to function like my real life, which means every shelf is going to be packed to the brim in no time flat!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Tools

Tape Measure
Safety Gear
Drill
Kreg Jig - optional but recommended
Nail Gun - optional but recommended
Saw - unless you have your local lumber supplier make your cuts for you!

Lumber

1 - 2x4 at 6'
1 - 1x12 at 4'
2 - 1x10 at 6'
4 - 1x8 at 6'
3 - 1x2 at 6'
1 - 1x2 at 8'
1 - 1x4 at 6'

Materials

2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws OR 2" Wood Screws
1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
1 1/4" Wood Screws
2" Finish Nails
Wood Filler
Wood Glue
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 - 2x4 at 35 1/2" Base Frame
2 - 1x10 at 23 1/2" Base Sides
2 - 1x10 at 35 1/2" Base Tops
1 - 1x12 at 39" Base of the Top
2 - 1x8 at 60" Top Sides
4 - 1x8 at 35 1/2" Shelves
2 - 1x2 at 60" Top Trim Sides
1 - 1x2 at 34" Top Trim Top
1 - 1x2 at 37" Base Trim on top of Bottom Trim
2 - 1x2 at 19 1/4" Side Base Trim
1 - 1x2 at 34" Top Base Trim
1 - 1x4 at 37" Base Trim at very Bottom

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build the Base Frame and Sides: Attach the 2x4's to the Sides using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue or your 2 1/2" Wood Screws and glue.

Step 2

Attach the Base Tops: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to attach the Top, Top and your Finish Nails to attach the Bottom Top to the Frame.

Step 3

Build the Top Shelving Unit: Attach your Shelves to the Sides using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to attach the Shelves to the Sides. Attach the Top Base from underneath using 2" Screws. Be sure you leave 1" overhang on either side of the Top Shelving unit and 3/4" overhang on the backside.

Step 4

Attach the Top Unit to the Base and add optional Cleats: Attach the Top Unit to the Base up through the Top of the Base Unit using 1 1/4" screws. If you are concerned about children climbing or tipping, add cleats to the backside of your Shelf at the top and at the base of the Top unit to provide stability and allow you to attach your shelves to the wall. Be sure to secure into the studs if you plan on doing this.

Step 5

Trim out the Base Unit: Add the Bottom Most trim first (the 1x4) and then add your 1x2 horizontal trim on top of that. Attach the remaining side and top trim to the base unit. Use 2" finish nails and glue to secure.

Step 6

Trim out the Top Unit: Attach your trim to the sides and top of your shelf using 2" finish nails and glue.

Step 7

Secure to the Wall using drywall screws or wall dog anchors, and be sure to attach to the studs.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Half and Half Louis XVI Chair

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Project Details

For those of you loved the Slatted Louis Chair and also the No Sew Upholstered Chair, this fine friend is a fabulous compromise between the two! Life is all about compromise...am I right?

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Tools

Tape Measure
Sander
Drill Saw - Jig or Circular
Kreg Jig
Staple Gun

Lumber

2 - 2x2 at 8'
1 - 2x4 at 8' 1/4 sheet of 1/2" Plywood
1 - 1/2"x3/4" square trim at 8'
1 - 1x2 at 6' (or less, you just need a very small amount)

Materials

1" Pocket Hole Screws
2 1/2" pocket hole screws
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies
Staples
Batting (chair padding) - about 1-1 1/2" or so, in thickness
Fabric - upholstery weight preferable - 1 yard or less

Cut List

2 - 2x4 at 40” (Back legs)
2 - 2x2 at 17 1/4” (front legs)
7 - 2x2 at 16” (chair aprons and rails)
1 - 1/2" Ply at 19" x 19" (chair seat)
5 - 1/2"x3/4" at 17" (slats)

Instructions

Step 1

Cut your 2x4’s in the shape and dimensions indicated below. To begin, draw out the cut lines as you see them here, go slow, and be accurate. You will have the most success cutting this, with either a circular saw or jig saw. A jig saw can cut right along the lines you draw, whereas with a circular saw, you will need to stop at each change of direction and angle, and carve out the triangular piece you began with, before moving on in another direction. You want to be sure both legs match and that the bottom of the legs, and the 3” vertical center (where the seat will connect), line up as perfectly as possible. To ensure matching dimensions and angles, clamp the legs together after you cut them out, and sand the matching faces of both at the same time for all 4 sides. Once they are matching and sanded, connect them with the rail as indicated below. It will sit at the bottom of the 3” vertical space on the legs..

Step 2

Build the front: cut all pieces to size, then place your pocket holes in the areas indicated below. Use your 1 1/2” setting and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut your corner supports and place your pocket holes in an L-shape as indicated below, drill a hole in the center of each support. This hole will be used to attach your seat in a later step. Then attach the chair front to the chair back. Use the back aprons to attach, and secure from the inside as indicated in the bottom image.

Step 4

Cut out and then notch your seat bottom. **Do not attach yet, as we will be upholstering it next step. The dimensions are shown below with 1 1/2” squares notched out of the back corners

Step 5

Cut your batting and fabric to size, and using your staple gun secure to the backside of the seat bottom. Staple them both at the same time, together. Start by stapling in each corner including the corners of your carve outs. Then you will work in a clockwise manner, stapling once per side (in the center of a remaining space) as you go around, continuing on in this manner until the fabric is completely secured. This pattern of stapling ensures that your fabric is not skewed or pulled more tightly on one side and helps you avoid wrinkling and pleating that you didn’t intend for. You will likely have a tiny bit of overlapping fabric in corners, but if you work in this manner, by stapling the corner then folding over the remaining corner fabric and stapling it, you can control the folding and make it appear nice looking.

Step 6

Cut your rails and slats to size, and note the slats are actually 1” longer than the dimension which will show. Create your pocket holes on the rails and drill your holes in both the top and bottom rails to house your slats. To create slat holes, mark out your drill hole locations by finding your middle, then dividing the remaining space in thirds. You should be placing the remaining holes approximately 2 2/3” apart. To create slat holes, use a 1/2” drill bit with a collar stop at 1/2”. This can be even a piece of masking tape marking the spot on your drill for 1/2”. This will keep you from drill farther than 1/2” into the rails. The slats are actually housed inside the rails by a 1/2” on the top and bottom and only need a bit of glue to be held in place, however if you prefer to also fasten with a pocket hole, you may. Once your holes have been drilled, secure the bottom rail in place (to the legs), drop in the slats with a drop of glue in each hole, then place a drop of glue in each hole for the top rail and turn over to set on top of the slats. Secure the top rail to the legs.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free Woodworking Plans to Build Vertical Cube Shelving Built Ins

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Project Details

I figure most of you can figure out how to build cube shelving...so I assure you that is not what we are going to do today! I am modifying the "typical" cube shelving so that it might be attached to the wall and trimmed out for decorative purposes. Let's face it folks... if it isn't nailed to the wall, it is going to be climbed on and WILL fall over and land on your child...or your cat...or you? We know what you do when we aren't looking...stop climbing the walls!

This is really easy to build, extremely budget friendly, and because it is broken down into cubes instead of longer sections, you can modify this in any way you like. Add another on top, a second row adjacent to this, maybe even a 3rd? The possibilities are endless, even a pyramid shape will work! The only question is how much storage do you need? and how large is your space? I will provide the buying guide for 1 cube and then for the 3 that I have done in this plan. This will give you the ability to adjust as needed.

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Tools

Tape Measure

Square

Sander

Saw - to cut your pieces to size.

Drill

Pneumatic Nailer (Nail Gun) or Finish Nail Set and Hammer.

Lumber

Wood (MDF): (for 3 cubes)

2 - Sheets of MDF @ 4' x 8'

5 - 1x2 @ 10'

1 - 1x2 @ 6'

Materials

2" Coarse Thread Screws (or drywall screws)

1 1/4" Coarse Thread Screws (or drywall screws)

2" Finish Nails

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sandpaper

Spackle

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

1 Cube: (the measurements change considerably for the trim if you do multiple cubes see below)

2 - 11/16" (3/4" equivalent) MDF @ 18 x 18" (Sides)

2 - 11/16" MDF @ 16 1/2 x 18" (Top and Bottom)

2 - 1x2 @ 16 1/2" (Cleats)

2 - 1x2 @ 15" (Front Trim)

6 - 1x2 @ 18" (Front and Side Trim)

4 - 1x2 @ 15 3/4" (Side Trim)

3 Cubes: 6 - 11/16" (3/4" equivalent) MDF @ 18 x 18" (Sides)

6 - 11/16" MDF @ 16 1/2 x 18" (Top and Bottom)

6 - 1x2 @ 16 1/2" (Cleats)

4 - 1x2 @ 15" (Front Trim)

6- 1x2 @ 54" (Front and Side Trim)

8 - 1x2 @ 15 3/4" (Side Trim)

Instructions

Step 1

Build your Cubes: Notice that the sides are the longer pieces and the top and bottom are shorter, this is too allow for less of a seam on the outsides when you are finished stacking. Use 2" Screws and Glue.

Step 2

Attach the cleats to the backside. Use 2" Screws and Glue or your Kreg Jig and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Stack and attach to each other. Use 1 1/4" Screws and Glue.

Step 4

Trim out the Front of your unit: Use 2" Finish Nails and Glue for the least amount of touch up. You can also build the face frame using your Kreg Jig and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and then nail the face frame unit in place as a whole.

Step 5

Trim out the sides: Use 2" Finish Nails and Glue or you kreg jig to create a face frame (this means attach the trim pieces together) using 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue and then nail onto the sides as a single trim unit.