Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Moreno Bar! This plan is perfect for those of you who would like to bring a little of that entertaining vibe into your room! Xx... Rayan
$75-$100
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the side legs and the side panel. Cut the angle in the leg using a jigsaw. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each long end of the panel, and in one long edge of one leg as shown. Keep in mind, there will be a right side assembly and a left side assembly! Attach the legs to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretcher. Cut the angle in the legs using a jigsaw, and drill pocket holes in the top edge keeping in mind there will be a right and a left. Cut the hole in the stretcher for the drawer using a jigsaw. Attach the legs to each end of the stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the side legs.
Cut the piece for the back. Draw a 4” radius at each corner and cut with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in each side edge. Secure the back piece to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back will stand 4” above the side to create a “backsplash”.
Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in three edges. Secure to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the upper shelf will be flush with the bottom of the upper stretcher.
Cut the piece for the front divider and drill pocket holes in the top edge. Secure to the upper stretcher as shown. Add a couple of countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the divider into each of the shelves.
Cut the piece for the top divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the fixed top. Position the piece so that it butts up against the backsplash and overhangs the front and side by ½”. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the flip-up top and install the hinges. There will be a 1/8” gap between the top and the back splash as well as between the top and the fixed top. The front and sides will overhang by ½”.
Cut the pieces for the doors and drill pocket holes as shown. Install the hinges, then install the doors. Attach the cabinet pulls in the location desired.
Cut the pieces for the drawer. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces, and assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom using glue and 1” brad nails. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the piece for the drawer front. For another easy tutorial, click here. Install the cabinet pull as desired.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jacqueline Bedside Table. Oh this little lady is gorgeous, isn't she? I love the delicate curves paired with her substantial form. A fabulous addition to any room! Xx...Rayan
$50-$75
Cut the pieces for the legs, stretchers, and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side and stretcher pieces. Center on the legs, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back and back stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end. Center on the legs, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer slide fillers. Attach to the sides as shown using countersunk ¾” screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, legs, back, and stretchers.
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes on all four edges of the bottom, as well as each end of the drawer sides. Attach the sides to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the drawer back in the same manner. The drawer front will overlap the sides of the drawer box by 3/8” at each side. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the hutch sides. Cut an arc in each piece maintaining the dimensions as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the lower edge of each piece. Keep in mind there will be a right and a left piece.
Cut the piece for the hutch back and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the bottom edge. Attach using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the hutch dividers. Drill pocket holes in one edge only of each piece. Position two of the dividers and shown then secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Set the other two dividers aside.
Cut the piece for the hutch shelf. Attach to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, as well as through the sides into the shelf.
Attach the other two dividers as shown using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, and through the sides and back into the shelf.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Baltic Dining Chair! Let's do it, let's dive right into this one! I promise chairs are easier than they seem! Once you get past the angles of the back legs, you are in the safety zone and this baby will come together in a snap! Xx... Rayan
$25-$50
Cut the pieces for the back legs. Start by drawing the back leg on one of the 2x6 pieces and cut out using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Trace the leg on the other 2x6 piece and cut out. Clamp the pieces together and thoroughly sand so they are even.
Cut the pieces for the front legs as well as the front and back stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Attach to the front and back legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the front stretcher will be flush with the front face of the legs. The back face of the back stretcher will be flush with the inside face of the back legs.
Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the leg assemblies as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the slats. The back edge of one of the 1x4 slats will have ¾” x 1-1/2” notches cut in each corner to fit around the back legs. Attach to the chair fame as shown with ½” spacing between them using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Degraw Chair. We have a special treat today friends with plans for this beauty Cher-Ann built! That periwinkle color is pretty much to die for! If you are interested in a little tutorial on stenciling your builds, head on over to her and check it out! Xx...Rayan
Cut the pieces for the back legs. Cut the angles as shown using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Cut the pieces for the back slats and stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the pieces on the legs as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the slats will be flush with the front face of the legs. The stretcher will be positioned ¼” back from the outside edge of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron piece. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the frame pieces will be positioned ¼” back from the outside face of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the seat supports. They can be any length with 45 degree miters at each end. Drill pocket holes in each mitered end (not shown in the drawing) and secure to the corners of the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches with a jigsaw and apply edge banding if being used. Secure to the chair frame using 1-1/4” screws through the underside of the supports into the bottom of the seat.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Ellsworth Entertaining Cabinet! This piece has great lines and will satisfy the antique or vintage lovers of you, out there! A Modern build for the furniture lovers of a bygone era!
Cut the pieces for the sides. Maintaining the dimensions shown, cut the curves using a jigsaw.
Cut the piece for the back. Cut the curve in the bottom as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelf and the bottom. Drill pocket holes along the two shorter edges and one long edge. Secure in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The shelf and bottom will be positioned ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.
Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the horizontal pieces. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach to the front of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes along the two shorter edges and one long edge. Secure in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the top to the top of the frame using 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the front apron. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the upper shelf. Drill pocket holes along the two shorter edges and one long edge. Secure in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Attach the shorter frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame pieces. Attach the side frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. Attach the hinges to the doors, then install in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door as well as in between the two. Install the cabinet pulls.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Jacqueline Dresser. To me, this piece is both substantialy and dainty at the same time. It's that classic look of a traditional piece with french lines made to stand the test of time. love.... Xx... Rayan
$100-$150
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out (one set toward the top and one set toward the bottom). This is so they will be hidden and won’t have to be filled!
Attach the side panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out.
Attach the back assembly to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top stretcher should be positioned so the pocket holes are facing up while the others are positioned so the pocket holes face down.
Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, it will need to be applied to the top before the top is secured. The sides will overlap by ½” at each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the side panels, back panel, and front stretcher.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Apply edge banding to all four edges of the front, if desired. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the side pieces to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Then attach the front and back pieces. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Install the knobs or handles.
Cut the pieces for the sides of the hutch. Maintain the dimensions shown in the drawing and draw a line to cut a decorative curve using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the lower edge of the pieces – keep in mind there will be a right and a left. Apply edge banding, if desired. Position the pieces so they are located ½” in from the side edges, and the back edge is flush with the back edge of the top. Attach to the top of the dresser using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back of the hutch. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the hutch top. Apply edge banding to all four edges, if desired. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the hutch sides and back.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Bench. We covered the plans for the locker unit here, and now the bench! You can see down below how this lovely modular family actually looks when it's all completed!!! It's fab, right?
Pretty cool, eh?
If using edge banding, it will need to be applied before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Maintain the dimensions as shown when cutting the curves. The curve at the back is optional and can be made by drawing a line 1” in from the back edge, marking the center of that line, then drawing lines from the center to the back corners. Cut out with a jigsaw.
Cut the pieces for the seat supports. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Cut the piece for the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the seat. The front of the seat will overlap by ½”. Secure to the supports and back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or countersunk screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge as show. Position the back so it rests on the seat and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front aprons and drawer supports. Drill pocket holes in one end of each apron pieces, as well as each end of the drawer supports. Assemble as shown, then attach to the sides and back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer box by 3/8" on each side.
Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Attach the cabinet pull or handle if desired.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Land of Nod Inspired Debutante Vanity and Bench.
Psst... we will be back in just a bit to kick off our amazing week of giveaways! yay! Stay tuned and check back here for those details and for the first giveaway reveal and entry!
Edge banding should be applied to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the apron piece. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The aprons will be centered on the legs.
Cut the piece for the back apron. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back apron will also be centered on the legs.
Cut the pieces for the front aprons and drawer supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer supports as well as one end of the front apron. Attach the drawer support to the apron using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. There will be a left and a right piece. Attach each assembly to the sides and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the vanity using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the legs, aprons, and supports. The front and sides will overlap by ½”.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the front and back in the same manner. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the piece for the drawer front. For another easy tutorial, click here.
Cut the pieces for the mirror frame and sides. Cut the arcs using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the bottom edge of the mirror frame and in the sides as shown. There will be a left and right side piece. Attach the sides to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the entire frame to the vanity top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the mirror as shown using a glass cutter. Attach to the back side of the frame using mirror clips.
Cut the pieces for the sides of the bench. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron pieces and attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The aprons will be centered on the legs.
Cut the piece for the seat. The seat will overlap the frame by ½” on all sides. Secure to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Sarah Shoe Storage
Cut the pieces for the sides and the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shelf pieces. Set seven of the shelf pieces off to the side for the cubbies. Attach the shelves to the sides at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the trim. Cut a fancy curve or design of your choice in the 1x4 pieces and attach to the 1x2 with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The face of the trim pieces will be flush with one of the edges of the 1x2.
Attach the trim assembly to the cabinet top and bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the notches in the shelves for the cubbies as shown with a jigsaw. Attach to the sides at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw. Attach to the cabinet with glue at the spacing indicated and add a few brad nails through the shelf into the dividers.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Low Wood Cutout King Headboard
Cut the pieces for the legs and frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the panels. The panels can be cut out with a jigsaw before assembly then attached to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. It can also be attached to the frame first, then the opening can be cut out with a router and a flush cutting bit.
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