Browse all Free Woodworking Plans that Require a Jig Saw

Oct
20
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this media console is so very handsome and wants to live in your home... So go forth and build this beautiful baby and make your home that much more stylish! 

The Deets

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 7 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 3/4” plywood at – 4’x8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x19-1/4” – Cabinet Sides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/4”x56” – Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 4 – 2x4 at 6” – Legs
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/2”x56” – Cabinet Back
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/2”x18” – Center Divider
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x37-1/4” – Left Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x18” – Right Shelf
  • 6 – 1x2 at 16” – Door Tops and Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x2 at 18” – Door Sides
  • 27 – 1x2 at 15” – Door Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Sides, Top, and Bottom. Apply edge banding to front edges of all pieces, if desired. Set the Kreg Jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top and Bottom pieces. Make sure the pocket holes will face the inside of the Console. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Legs. You will need 4 of these exactly the same. This diagram shows you how to mark out the shape you need for the Console Legs. Use your circular saw to cut this out. If you simply connect the dots between the dimensions outlined below and use a circular saw to make these cuts, you won't have to worry about the actual angle for each corner.

Attach Legs to the bottom of the Console as shown with glue and 1-3/4” wood screws. The Legs should be placed 3/4” from the Sides of the Console and flush with the front edge of the Console. Insert the wood screws down through the Console Bottom into the Legs so that the screws are hidden. Also, make sure that the screws are countersunk so that they do not interfere with items placed inside the Console.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the Back. Drill pocket holes in each edge of the Back. Attach the Back as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of the Console.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the Center Divider. Drill pocket holes in the top andbottom of the Divider. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocketscrews.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Shelves. Drill pocket holes in the ends of theshelves and assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.There will be an approximate 1/2” space in the back between the shelvesand the Console Back.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Door Tops, Bottoms, and Slats. Drill pocket holesin the ends of the Tops, Bottoms, and Slats. Attach as shown with glueand 1-1/4” pocket screws. There will be a 1/4” gap between each Slat.Repeat this for all three Doors. Remember to keep checking for “square”on each door – each door should measure the same diagonally in bothdirections.

Step 7

Attach hinges as shown at the top and bottom of the Doors and attach tothe Console. There will be a 1/4” space between each installed Door.Add Door hardware such as a pull or knob if desired. 

Step 8
Step 9
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
12
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Project Details

By special reader request, this beauty was a gem to find in our plan request queue! I adore a gorgeous desk plan especially one of this variety of design! I hope you all like it too! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood at 4’ x 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood at 2’ x 4’
  • 1/2” dowel at 2’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 27-3/4” (may need to rip 2x4s down to 2-1/2”) – Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 39” – Front and Back Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 41” – Middle Stretcher
  • 2 – 1/2”x3” (may need to purchase 1/2”x4” and rip down to 2-1/2”) at 43-1/2” – Long Top Frame Pieces
  • 3 – 1/2”x3” (may need to purchase 1/2”x4” and rip down to 2-1/2”) at 14-1/2” – Short Top Frame Pieces
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 44” x 20” – Table Top
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14” x 20” – Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20” – Cabinet Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Drawer Guides
  • 1 – 1x2 at 14” – Drawer Divider
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 13-1/2” x 14” – Cabinet Back
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 17” x 3” – Top Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Top Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 2-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Top Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 4” x 13-1/2” – Top Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 17” x 8” – Bottom Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Bottom Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 7-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 8-3/4” x 13-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1/2” dowels at 5” – Top Dowels
  • 4 – 1/2” dowels at 3” – Side Dowels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the lumber for the four Legs at the appropriate length. All four Legs will be cut at an angle on the inside, but two of the legs will need holes drilled in them. Use a 1/2” spade bit to drill holes on the narrow side of the wood in two Legs. It is easier to drill these holes before cutting the wood at an angle, since a flat surface is easier to work with when drilling. Drill the holes approximately 2” deep.

Next, draw out the measurements on all four Legs and cut as shown. The tapered leg will start at 2-1/2” from the top of the Legs. 

Leg Pattern for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
How to Make the Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Front and Back Aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Front and Back Aprons Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Only attach one “drilled” leg on both the Front and the Back Apron. Make sure that the holes face the inside of the project, since 1/2” dowels will be inserted in them at a later step.

Front and Back Aprons with Pocket Hole Screws and the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Side Aprons, and drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Side Aprons using the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Side Stretchers and Middle Stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the Side Stretchers to the Legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the Middle Stretcher to the Side Stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Side Stretchers with Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Middle Stretcher using the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Long Top Frame and Short Top Frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Short Top Frame pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. Next, drill two 1/2” holes all the way through the wood as shown. These holes will receive 1/2” dowels in a later step.

Arrange Top Frame as shown with a 1/4” reveal on each edge. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut Long and Top Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Arrange Top Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 6

Cut the Table Top and secure using glue and 1” screws (screwed from the bottom). The Table Top will extend 1/4” past the Top Frame, and will be flush with the Legs and Aprons.

Table Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Sides. In only one of the Cabinet Sides, drill 1/2” holes approximately 1/4” deep, in each corner as shown.

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Top and Bottom. Drill 1/2” holes in the Cabinet Top as shown at a 1/4” depth.

Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the Top and Bottom Sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cabinet Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Cabinet Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Secure with Pocket hole screws and Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the Drawer Guides. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails (nail from the outside of the Sides). If you want to nail the Drawer Guide from the inside, do so before assembling Cabinet Box (space is limited inside the box), or simply glue and clamp until dry.

Drawer Glides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 9

Cut the piece for the Drawer Divider. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Drawer Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 10

Cut the piece for the Cabinet Back. Drill pocket holes in all sides of the Cabinet Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cabinet Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Top Drawer Sides and Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the front ends of the Top Drawer Sides and in the sides and front of the Top Drawer Bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Top Drawer Back. Drill pocket holes in the ends and bottom of the Top Drawer Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Top Drawer Front. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.  The top of the Front will extend 1/4” above the top of the Drawer and the Bottom will extend 3/4” beyond the bottom of the drawer.

Top Drawer Sides and Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Top Drawer Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Top Drawer Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Drawer Sides and Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the front ends of the Bottom Drawer Sides and in the sides and front of the Bottom Drawer Bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Bottom Drawer Back. Drill pocket holes in the ends and bottom of the Bottom Drawer Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Bottom Drawer Front. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. The top of the Front will extend 1” above the top of the Drawer and the Bottom will be 1/4” above the bottom of the drawer.

Step 13

Now on to the really fun part! Put a nice dab of glue in each drilled hole. The 5” length dowels connect the Cabinet to the Table Frame and the 3” length dowels connect the Cabinet to the Legs. The Cabinet itself should be flush with the front and back of the Desk. The Cabinet side should be 3-1/2” in from the side of the Desk. TIP: Paint the dowels a metallic color before gluing and inserting into the holes.

Desk Assembly for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Aug
30
2014
Reader Showcase // Two Toned Chaise Lounge for FFA Fair DIY Outdoor Kreg Jig Project Plans from Wood using Pocket Hole Screws

I found the plans for your chaise lounge chair and I started constructing it for my FFA fair, for a project that will be judged and showcased.

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 
Length of Time 
Modifications 
Lumber Used 
Finishing Technique 
Additional Project Details 
Reader Showcase // Two Toned Chaise Lounge for FFA Fair DIY Outdoor Kreg Jig Project Plans from Wood using Pocket Hole Screws
Note
Aug
25
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Project Details

Oh this piece of DIY Furniture might be one of my absolute faves! So utterly versatile and just the coolest... lay it flat to enjoy on your front side or snooze and when you feel like it, simply put it in one of several incline positions to lounge and chat! Isn't that amazing? Check out the images at the bottom to see how this gal moves and functions! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 5 – 1x3 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 75”– Main Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 29-1/2”– Main Frame Top and Bottom
  • 5 – 1x3 at 31” – Main Frame Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 19”– Middle Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 26”– Middle Frame Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 1x4 at 2-1/2”– Middle Frame Spacers
  • 4 – 1x3 at 27-1/2”– Middle Frame Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 30-1/4”– Upper Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1x4 at 27-1/2”– Upper Frame Top
  • 5 – 1x3 at 29” – Upper Frame Slats 
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the two Main Frame Sides. Drill a 1/2” hole 29” from one end of the Side and 1-3/4” from the top. Please note that all hole measurements will be TO the center of the hole. Drill another 1/2” hole 3” from the other end of the Side. Drill a series of 4 more holes in the same manner as shown, 3” on center and 1-3/4” from the top. You can drill more than 5 holes if you wish – this will give you even more adjustment opportunities! You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. If you feel confident, clamp the Main Frame Sides together and drill both holes at once through the pieces.

Outside Frame Hole Placement for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 2

Cut out the Main Frame Top and Bottom and attach to the Main Frame Sides as shown with glue and pocket screws. 

Outside Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 3

Cut out the Main Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Main Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 4

Next, cut out the Middle Frame Sides. Drill a 1/2” hole positioned 1-1/2” from each end and 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. Or you can clamp the Middle Frame Sides together and drill both holes at once through the pieces.

Mid Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 5

Cut and attach the Middle Frame Top and Bottom to the Middle Frame Sides as shown with glue and pocket screws. 

Middle Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 6

Next, cut the Middle Frame Spacers. Drill a 1/2” hole positioned 1-1/2” from the end and 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Spacer. Or you can clamp the Spacers together and drill both holes at once through the pieces. Align Spacers with the Sides so that the drilled holes match up and the edges are flush. Attach Spacers to the Middle Frame Sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Mid Frame Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 7

Cut out the Middle Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Mid Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 8

On to the last portion of the Futon! Cut the pieces for the Upper Frame Sides. Drill two 1/2” holes – one positioned 1-3/4” from one end, and the other 1-1/4” from the other end, both 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. Or you can clamp the Sides together and drill both holes at once through both pieces.

Upper Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 9

Next, cut the Upper Frame Top and secure to the Upper Frame Sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Upper Frame Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 10

Cut out the Upper Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Upper Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 11

This is where the piece really starts to take shape! Lay out the Main Frame on a flat surface. Place the Middle Frame and Upper Frame within the Main Frame as shown. Attach the Upper Frame to the Middle Frame by aligning the drilled holes and inserting the (2) 2” clevis pins and hitch pin clips on both sides. Attach the Middle Frame to the Main Frame by aligning the drilled holes and inserting the (2) 3” clevis pins and hitch pin clips on both sides. Use the (2) 2” clevis pins and hitch pin clips to secure the Upper Frame to the Main Frame in the desired adjustment holes. Add a cushion for extra comfort! After finishing, you might find it helpful to apply a coat of paste wax to the areas of the Futon that pivot and rub against each other. Large washers may also be used for extra reinforcement at the end of the clevis pins. Lastly, use a sander on edges if you want a more rounded, softer appearance. 

Clevis Pin Assembly for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 12

Check out how versatile this piece is! It can lay flat or incline to several positions. We’ve included a few more graphics for you to see this Futon in motion.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Aug
18
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Project Details

I think a Side Table with storage is a perfectly versatile and adaptable piece of furniture. You might use this gorgeous gal as a nightstand, or next to your sofa, and perhaps to create a fabulous design moment on an otherwise empty wall. Mix it up and try this cute friend in a space you might not typically put a side table. You just might love it... Xx... Rayan 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 - 3/4” sheet of plywood at 4’ x 8’  
  • 1 - 3/4” sheet of plywood at 2’ x 4’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 22” x 20” – Table Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 20” x 19” – Table Sides  
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20-1/2” x 17-1/2” – Table Back
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 6” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Dividers
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20” x 20-1/2” – Table Top
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20-3/4” x 22” – Finished Table Top
  • 4 – 2x4 at 3-1/2” x 11-1/4” – Table Legs      
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12” – Front and Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 10” – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Top Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 2-3/4” x 16-1/2” – Top Drawer Sides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 3-1/2” – Top Drawer Frontsand Backs
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 22” x 4-3/4” – Top Drawer FinishedFront  
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/2” x 4-3/4” – Bottom Drawer Sides
  • 4 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 5-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Fronts and Backs
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 22” x 6-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Finished Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the Table Bottom and Sides and attach as shown with glue and pocket screws. 

Cabinet Sides and Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 2

Cut out the Table Back and attach as shown to the Table Sides and Bottom with glue and pocket screws. When the Back is in place, it will leave a 3/4” space at the top for the Table Top.

Side Table Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 3

Cut out the Drawer Dividers and attach as shown on the front edge of the Table Sides with glue and pocket screws. There will be a 4-3/4” space above the Top Drawer Divider and a 6” space above and below the Bottom Drawer Divider.

Side Table Drawer Dividers for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 4

Cut and attach the Table Top to the Table Sides and Table Back with glue and pocket screws. The back of the Table Top will rest on top of the Table Back.

Side Table Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 5

Cut and attach the Finished Table Top to the Table Top as shown with glue and pocket screws. The front of the Finished Table Top will have a 3/4” overhang. 

Finished Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 6

Time to cut out the Table Legs! You will need 4 of these exactly the same. This diagram shows you how to mark out the shape you need for the Table Legs. Use your circular saw to cut this out. If you simply connect the dots between the dimensions outlined below and use a circular saw to make these cuts, you won't have to worry about the actual angle for each corner.

Leg Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Stretchers. Cut a 45 degree angle in each end of the long Stretchers and the short Stretchers. Also drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece (to attach to the bottom of the Table). Secure to the Legs (the top of the Stretchers will be flush with the top of the Legs) using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Side Table Base Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 8

Position the base frame on the bottom of the Table. It will be located 5” in from each side, and 3-1/2” from the front edge. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Bottom Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 9

And now on to the drawers!

  • Cut the pieces for the Top Drawer Bottom and Sides and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
  • Cut and attach the Top Drawer Front and Back Pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

  • Cut and attach the Top Drawer Front to the Drawer Box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The Front will extend 1” above the Drawer Box on the top, 1-1/4” on the sides, and 1/4” on the bottom. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the Drawer Box to help it slide smoothly. Add drawer hardware such as a pull or knob if desired.

 

Top Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Top Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Top Drawer Face for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 10

The next three steps will be repeated twice, since this project has two lower drawers of the same size.

  • Cut the pieces for Bottom Drawer Bottoms and Sides and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
  • Cut and attach the Bottom Drawer Fronts and Back Pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

  • Cut and attach the Bottom Drawer Finished Fronts to the Drawer Boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The Fronts will extend 3/4” above the Drawer Boxes on the top, 1-1/4” on the sides, and 1/4” on the bottom. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the Drawer Box to help it slide smoothly. Add drawer hardware such as a pull or knob if desired.

Bottom Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Bottom Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Bottom Drawer Face for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jul
09
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table. This beauty can be adapted to suit your needs, with modifications to make this build that much more unique. This table is suitable for indoor or outdoor use depending on what you choose to construct it out of and how you finish it (hence the mods). Yahoo!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 Sheet 3/4" Plywood
  • 2x4 at 8'
Materials
Cut List

** Your selection of lumber can be chosen to reflect your particular use. For outdoor use, choose something that will wear well such as redwood or cedar if possible (or finish with a good sealant) and if you plan to finish the table top with concrete, you can choose a relatively inexpensive plywood that isn't pretty but will get the job done. 

2 - 48" Round Circles from 3/4" Plywood

4 - 2x4 at 26 1/2" - Legs

1 - 2x4 at 32 1/2" - Frame

2 - 2x4 at 14 1/2" - Frame

1 - 2x4 at 43 1/2" - Base

2 - 2x4 at 20" - Base

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

To enlarge the images in this plan, simply click on the image for each step. 

Step 1

Begin by cutting all of your boards to length and drilling your pocket holes if you choose to use a Kreg Jig for construction. Set your jig for 1 1/2" material and place pocket holes in an unconspicuous location. For the Base pieces these are best at the inside edge of the shorter pieces and facing downward so they aren't seen. You will not need pocket holes on the legs but you will need them on the Frame pieces in a similar manner as with the Base pieces only you will also need them on the outside edges of the shorter pieces and the outside edges of the long piece. You will probably want to place these facing up so that they are hidden once you attach your table top. 

To cut your 48" rounds you can begin by cutting your sheet of plywood in half so that you have 2 pieces that are 48" x 48". Then place a nail in the center (find this by drawing a line from corner to corner on the diagonal) and tie a string around it. Then tie a pencil to the other end so that it is just as long as the distance between your nail and the edge of your plywood (on a flat edge not a corner). Holding your pencil upright, pull your string taught and then draw a circle by simply running it around the outside edge in a circular motion, all the way around. Cut 2 of these out using a jig saw or band saw. 

Once you have cut and drilled your pieces, you will lay them out and fasten as you see below in the diagram. You will use glue and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to connect all of your pieces or you can use your countersink bit and 2 1/2" wood screws to fasten the legs to the Frame pieces.  I wouldn't recommend using this method for attaching the shorter Frame pieces to the longer Frame piece if you can help it since you will have to come up and in at an angle and it's difficult to get your screw sunken deeply enough this way. 

We are working from the top down in constructing the base frame of the table so you will flip your base frame over before attaching the table top to it. 

Constructing the Frame and Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Step 2

Begin this step by attaching the Base Pieces to each other using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue. Just like in the previous step you will want your pocket holes to be inconspicuous so you will have them facing up if your table looks like mine below. Your pocket holes will be place on the inside of the shorter Base pieces to attach them to the longer Base piece. Then you will place this X shape onto your base frame as shown in the previous step. There will be a 4" overhang of the Base pieces to the legs. 

You will then switch to your countersink bit and predrill down through the Base pieces and into the legs. Then fasten in place using glue and your 2 1/2" wood screws. 

Attaching the Base for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Step 3

Once your glue has finished setting up and all of your base frame is assembled, you will focus on securing your 2 table top rounds together using glue and 1 1/4" wood screws in a few select spots. Be sure to countersink for a more finished appearance and just in case you accidentally place a screw where your top meets your base frame. 

Then place your base frame onto your 2 table top rounds and attach using your countersink bit to predrill and your 2 1/2" wood screws. Attach through the Frame pieces in several places all along the length of the frame pieces. Don't make swiss cheese here, but make sure you have your base frame attached to your table top well enough that it doesn't come off when you attempt to flip this upright. 

The top should overhang the base frame by 6 1/4" on all sides. 

Fastening the Table Top in Place for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Step 4

Flip your table upright and either apply edge banding to the table top rounds, fill the edges of your top with wood filler and sand smooth prior to finishing and sealing, or cover the table top with a thin layer of concrete. The idea here would be to simply give it a concrete finish (thin layer) rather than creating an actual concrete table top, which would be extremely heavy and not desirable for this piece. Follow the instructions from the manufacterer of your products for proper directions on the application. 

Optional Concrete Finish for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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