• Essentials from Target for The Design Confidential Feeling Fall // Essentials for Creating a Cozy Mantel
  • Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
  • Family Room Sneak Peek / The Design Confidential in Collaboration with Joss and Main for a Curators Collection Sale Story Interview
  • Hammock and Lounging Area for the Home Depot Style Challenge Outdoor Games Edition
  • DIY Faux Watercolor Wallpaper Wall Treatment with Paint
  • Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Tri Trestle Table
  • DIY Home Decor // How To Make Your Own Removable Wallpaper

Browse all Free Woodworking Plans that Require a Jig Saw

Oct
09
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Project Details

The Low Loft Bunk Bed Series is hands down our most popular series of project plans to date. Many of you have asked for a queen sized version of this fabulous sleeper and I am finally obliging! Yahoo. I have made a modification to the ladder in this plan, for both the orientation as well as the method of construction, to be more accomodating to adults and to allow for a more compact footprint.

The Deets
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Tools
Lumber
  • 4 - 4x4 at 6' Fence Posts - UNTREATED
  • 2 - 2x6 at 8'
  • 2 - 2x6 at 6'
  • 14 - 2x4 at 8'
  • 15 - 1x4 at 6' - if 8' boards are cheaper, buy those - you will have leftover scrap.
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 at 59" - Legs
  • 2 - 2x6 at 81" - Side Rails
  • 2 - 2x6 at 70" - Head / Foot Rails
  • 2 - 2x4 at 81" - Cleats
  • 4 - 2x4 at 81" - Upper Side Rails and Center Support Joists
  • 4 - 2x4 at 70" - Upper Head / Foot Rails
  • 1 - 2x4 at 59" - Front Guard Rai Ladder Leg
  • 4 - 2x4 at 8 3/4" - Lower Front Guard Rail Ladder Supports
  • 1 - 2x4 at 18" - Upper Front Guard Rail Ladder Supports
  • 2 - 2x4 at 55" - Guard Rail Side Upper Rails
  • 4 - 2x4 at 27" - Ladder Rungs
  • 15 - 1x4 at 67" - Slats
Instructions

**I recommend finishing your boards and posts prior to assembling and simply touching up later. This will make for easier painting and will keep you from having to paint this wherever this piece will actually live (bedroom) since you will have to assemble it in the area it will be placed (at 45 or more inches wide this will not fit through a doorway after it's assembled).

** This plan is designed to accomodate a Queen Sized Mattress at 66" x 80". If your mattress is a different size, you will need to adjust for this by adding or subtracting length to all pieces on the side you are adjusting. For example if your mattress is 68" wide then you will add 2" inches to every single width running dimension on the plans below (Head/Foot pieces). 

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut all 4 Legs to size and then notch out the sections shown in the image on one of the legs. You can use a jig saw, table saw or a circular saw to do this. Then attach the Cleats to the Side Rails using 2" Screws and be sure the bottom of the Side Rail and the Cleat are flush. You 

To attach the Rails to the Legs you will arrange the pieces as shown in the diagram below, making sure to leave 1 1/2" on either side of the ends of the Rails to allow for the Head and Foot Rails later. Clamp together making sure everything is completely square before you proceed. Once square and aligned as needed, you will use a 7/16" Drill Bit and drill through all 3 pieces on each side (the leg, rail and cleat), creating 2 holes on either side for the bolts that will secure this. 

Fasten with your Carriage Bolts and tighten.

Leg Dimensions and Side Rails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 2

Attach the Bed Rail Hardware to the Side Rails. You can secure the Lower Head and Foot Rails to the Legs using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" material and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

** Be sure you place your pocket holes in a location that doesn't interfere with the bed rail hardware. The Head and Foot Rails will sit flush with the outside of the Legs and with the Lower Side Rails. You can also skip pocket holes and use 3" Screws to secure these to the Side Rails if you prefer.

Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" material, to secure the Center Support Joists to the Head and Foot Rails with 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws. Then fasten the Upper Side Rails on one side of your bed (not the side that will have your ladder) to the Back Legs using 3" Screws. 

Upper Side Rails and Support Joists for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 3

Create your Guard Rail Leg Unit. This will be 2 - 2x4's, one long and the other cut into sections with spacing and dimensions as shown in the image. This will hold your ladder rungs later so just be sure that the separation between your shorter ladder supports will actually fit a 2x4 nice and snug. You need to fit it in place but you don't want any wiglle room so a tight fit is better than a slightly loose fit. Attach the Front Upper Side Rails to the Leg using 3" screws and attach to the Guard Rail Leg Unit using 2" Screws. 

Guard Rail Side Rails and Ladder Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 4

Attach the Upper Head Rails on the side opposite where you choose to put the ladder, in my example this would be the left side. Use 3" Screws and secure into the ends of the Upper Side Rails. 

Upper Head Rails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 5

Lay your Slats approximately 2" apart. Be sure the 2 on the outside edges are flush in both corners. Screw down using 1 1/4" Screws or Nails and fasten to both cleats and both support joists. 

Bed Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 6

Attach the remaining 2 upper Foot Rails to the Back Upper Side Rails and the Front Leg using a Pocket hole System (Kreg Jig) set for 1 1/2" materials and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the Rails to the front Leg. To fasten the Foot Rails to the Back Side you can either use Pocket Hole Screws and glue to connect them to the Back Leg or 3" Wood Screws and Glue, with a countersink bit to predrill and secure directly to the end of the Upper Side Rails. 

Slide the Ladder Rungs into place and secure with glue. You can choose to secure with 3" Wood Screws from the legs into the ends of the rungs, but this is optional and you can absolutely secure with glue and call it a day! 

Ladder Rungs and Upper Foot Rails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Oct
01
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vodder Chest of Drawers
Project Details

I love a good chest of drawers, and when that dresser has stylish drawers... well that is simply my fave! I hope enjoy these Free DIY Furniture Plans and Instructions on How to Build a Vodder Chest of Drawers! If you need a little storage in your life, this is definitely a good one! Xx... Rayan

The Deets
Finished Chest for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vodder Chest of Drawers

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$125
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vodder Chest of Drawers
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at – 4’x8’
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at – 4’x8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 14-1/2”x33” – Chest Sides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 14-1/2”x26” – Chest Top and Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 26”x31-1/2” – Chest Back
  • 4 – 2x4 at 5” – Legs
  • 10 – 3/4” plywood at 1”x12” – Drawer Guides
  • 6 – 1/2” plywood at 11-1/2”x24-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 12 – 1/2” plywood at 4”x11-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 6 – 1/2” plywood at 3-1/2”x24-1/2” – Drawer Backs
  • 6 – 1/2” plywood at 5”x25-1/2” – Plain Drawer Fronts
  • 6 – 1/2” plywood at 5”x25-1/2” – Bowtie Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Sides, Top, and Bottom. Apply edge banding to front edges of all pieces, if desired. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top and Bottom pieces. Make sure the pocket holes will face the inside of the Chest. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Chest Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vodder Chest of Drawers
Step 2

Cut the piece for the Back. Drill pocket screws in each edge of the Back. Attach the back as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of the Chest.

Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vodder Chest of Drawers
Step 3

Cut out the Legs as shown.

Leg for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vodder Chest of Drawers
Step 4

Attach Legs to the bottom of the Chest as shown with glue and 1-1/2” wood screws. The Legs should be placed 2” from the edges of the Chest and at a 45-degree angle. Insert the wood screws down through the Chest Bottom into the Legs so that the screws are hidden. Also, make sure that the screws are countersunk so that they do not interfere with the Drawer.

Attach Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vodder Chest of Drawers
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Drawer Guides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. Insert the wood screws from the inside of the Chest, through the Drawer Guides, into the Chest Sides so that the screws are hidden. The Guides will be 1-1/2” set back from the front of the Chest, and have approximately a 1/4” gap in the back.

Drawer Guides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vodder Chest of Drawers
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Drawer Sides, Bottoms, Backs, and Plain Fronts for all Drawers. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the underside of the Bottoms and on the outside front ends of the Sides. Attach as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.

Drill pocket holes in the sides and bottoms of the Drawer Backs. Attach as shown with glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

 

Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vodder Chest of Drawers
Drawer Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vodder Chest of Drawers
Step 7

For Drawers 1 through 5, attach the Plain Fronts as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws. The top of the Plain Fronts for Drawers 1 through 5 will extend 3/4” above the Sides.  The bottoms of the Plain Fronts will extend 1/4” below the Sides.

Drawer Plain Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vodder Chest of Drawers
Step 8

Next, cut out the Bowtie Fronts for Drawers 1 through 6 as shown. Attach to the Plain Fronts of Drawers 1 through 5 with glue and 3/4” brad nails. The Bowtie Fronts will line up exactly with the Plain Fronts.

Drawer Bowtie for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vodder Chest of Drawers
Attach Drawer Bowtie for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vodder Chest of Drawers
Step 9

For Drawer 6, attach the Plain Front as shown with glue and 1” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the Plain Front will be even with the Sides, and the top of the Plain Front will extend 1” above the Sides.

Attach the Bowtie Front as shown with glue and 3/4” brad nails.

Tip: Paint the fronts and tops of the Plain Drawer Fronts in black or another accent color to add a really cool effect to this piece.

After sanding, staining, and sealing, you may want to apply a coat of paste wax to the bottoms of the Drawers and tops of the Drawer Guides to help them slide smoothly. Add drawer hardware such as a pull or knob if desired.

Drawer 6 Plain Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vodder Chest of Drawers
Drawer 6 Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vodder Chest of Drawers
Step 10

Insert Drawers 1 through 6 into Chest and fill them up with all of your goodies!

Insert Drawers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vodder Chest of Drawers
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School.

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.

If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, and then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
17
2014
The Design Confidential Real Reader Showcase // Francine Dining Chair!

Plans worked great and very sturdy. Made with only a jig saw, kreg jig, and power drill.

I'm a complete amateur and was easily able to make this chair. The plans are completely accurate and the chair turned out great! Might have to build some more to make a set!

Estimated Cost 

$30.

Length of Time 

I took my sweet time making this so my time frame isn't very accurate.

Lumber Used 

Pine.

Finishing Technique 

Stain and polyurethane.

Sep
12
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Project Details

By special reader request, this beauty was a gem to find in our plan request queue! I adore a gorgeous desk plan especially one of this variety of design! I hope you all like it too! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood at 4’ x 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood at 2’ x 4’
  • 1/2” dowel at 2’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 27-3/4” (may need to rip 2x4s down to 2-1/2”) – Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 39” – Front and Back Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 41” – Middle Stretcher
  • 2 – 1/2”x3” (may need to purchase 1/2”x4” and rip down to 2-1/2”) at 43-1/2” – Long Top Frame Pieces
  • 3 – 1/2”x3” (may need to purchase 1/2”x4” and rip down to 2-1/2”) at 14-1/2” – Short Top Frame Pieces
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 44” x 20” – Table Top
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14” x 20” – Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20” – Cabinet Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Drawer Guides
  • 1 – 1x2 at 14” – Drawer Divider
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 13-1/2” x 14” – Cabinet Back
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 17” x 3” – Top Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Top Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 2-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Top Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 4” x 13-1/2” – Top Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 17” x 8” – Bottom Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Bottom Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 7-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 8-3/4” x 13-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1/2” dowels at 5” – Top Dowels
  • 4 – 1/2” dowels at 3” – Side Dowels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the lumber for the four Legs at the appropriate length. All four Legs will be cut at an angle on the inside, but two of the legs will need holes drilled in them. Use a 1/2” spade bit to drill holes on the narrow side of the wood in two Legs. It is easier to drill these holes before cutting the wood at an angle, since a flat surface is easier to work with when drilling. Drill the holes approximately 2” deep.

Next, draw out the measurements on all four Legs and cut as shown. The tapered leg will start at 2-1/2” from the top of the Legs. 

Leg Pattern for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
How to Make the Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Front and Back Aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Front and Back Aprons Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Only attach one “drilled” leg on both the Front and the Back Apron. Make sure that the holes face the inside of the project, since 1/2” dowels will be inserted in them at a later step.

Front and Back Aprons with Pocket Hole Screws and the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Side Aprons, and drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Side Aprons using the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Side Stretchers and Middle Stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the Side Stretchers to the Legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the Middle Stretcher to the Side Stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Side Stretchers with Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Middle Stretcher using the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Long Top Frame and Short Top Frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Short Top Frame pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. Next, drill two 1/2” holes all the way through the wood as shown. These holes will receive 1/2” dowels in a later step.

Arrange Top Frame as shown with a 1/4” reveal on each edge. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut Long and Top Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Arrange Top Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 6

Cut the Table Top and secure using glue and 1” screws (screwed from the bottom). The Table Top will extend 1/4” past the Top Frame, and will be flush with the Legs and Aprons.

Table Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Sides. In only one of the Cabinet Sides, drill 1/2” holes approximately 1/4” deep, in each corner as shown.

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Top and Bottom. Drill 1/2” holes in the Cabinet Top as shown at a 1/4” depth.

Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the Top and Bottom Sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cabinet Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Cabinet Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Secure with Pocket hole screws and Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the Drawer Guides. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails (nail from the outside of the Sides). If you want to nail the Drawer Guide from the inside, do so before assembling Cabinet Box (space is limited inside the box), or simply glue and clamp until dry.

Drawer Glides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 9

Cut the piece for the Drawer Divider. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Drawer Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 10

Cut the piece for the Cabinet Back. Drill pocket holes in all sides of the Cabinet Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cabinet Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Top Drawer Sides and Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the front ends of the Top Drawer Sides and in the sides and front of the Top Drawer Bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Top Drawer Back. Drill pocket holes in the ends and bottom of the Top Drawer Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Top Drawer Front. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.  The top of the Front will extend 1/4” above the top of the Drawer and the Bottom will extend 3/4” beyond the bottom of the drawer.

Top Drawer Sides and Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Top Drawer Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Top Drawer Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Drawer Sides and Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the front ends of the Bottom Drawer Sides and in the sides and front of the Bottom Drawer Bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Bottom Drawer Back. Drill pocket holes in the ends and bottom of the Bottom Drawer Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Bottom Drawer Front. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. The top of the Front will extend 1” above the top of the Drawer and the Bottom will be 1/4” above the bottom of the drawer.

Step 13

Now on to the really fun part! Put a nice dab of glue in each drilled hole. The 5” length dowels connect the Cabinet to the Table Frame and the 3” length dowels connect the Cabinet to the Legs. The Cabinet itself should be flush with the front and back of the Desk. The Cabinet side should be 3-1/2” in from the side of the Desk. TIP: Paint the dowels a metallic color before gluing and inserting into the holes.

Desk Assembly for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
02
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Project Details

If you liked the original Nova Sofa, but would love a bit more seating, this Sectional unit is just the ticket! Use the pieces from this collection either indoors or outside and it is equally as wonderful for both, perhaps just styled differently, no?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Tools
Lumber
  • 16 – 1x2 at 8’ (It may be cheaper to buy 2 – 1x6 at 8’ then rip them into 1x2 strips on the table saw)
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x10 at 6’
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x8 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22” – Legs
  • 1 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 23-1/2” – Leg
  • 1 – 2x6 (ripped to 6” wide) at 14” – Leg
  • 1 – 2x2 at 49-1/2” – Back Stretcher
  • 6 – 2x2 at 12-1/2” – Support Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 43-1/2” – Inner Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 52-1/2” – Upper Back
  • 4 – 2x2 at 22-1/2” – Seat Supports
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8” – Inner Side Slat Support
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 25-1/2” x 49-1/2” - Seat
  • 1 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22-1/2” – Arm
  • 1 – 1x3 at 48-3/4” – Inner Back Slat
  • 3 – 1x2 at 50-1/4” – Inner Back Slats
  • 1 – 1x3 at 23-1/4” – Inner Side Slat
  • 3 – 1x2 at 23-1/4” – Inner Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x3 at 30” – Side Slats
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6” – Side Slat
  • 15 – 1x2 at 30” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x2 at 6” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x3 at 54” – Back & Front Slats
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6” – Front Slat
  • 15 – 1x2 at 54” – Back & Front Slats
  • 3 – 1x2 at 6” – Front Slats
  • 1 – 1x10 (ripped to 7-1/2” wide) at 54” – Back Trim
  • 1 – 1x8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 31-1/2” – Left Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for two of the legs, two of the support legs, and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher, one end of the support legs, the top edge of the legs, and one long edge of the legs. (There will be a left and a right!) Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the remaining two back legs and drill pocket holes in the top edge only. Attach the inner back legs to the outer back legs (in an L shape) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut and Fasten Legs Supports and Stretchers using a Miter Saw and Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 2

Cut the pieces for two of the legs, two of the support legs, inner back stretcher and the upper back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher and the top edge of the support legs, then attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the upper back piece to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut and Fasten Legs Supports and Stretcher using Miter Saw and Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front legs, front support legs, and stretcher, and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher, one end of the support legs, and the top edge of the legs. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut and Attach Front Legs Supports and Stetcher using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the front and inner back stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the inner slat support and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the outer seat supports as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. They will be positioned ¾” away from the inner back legs.

Cut and Attach Seat Supports using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Cut and Attach Inner Slat Support using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw, then secure to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Notch Seat using Jig Saw for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Attach Seat using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the arm and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes.

Cut and Fasten the Arm using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the inner back slats. The 1x3 slat will be shorter than the 1x2 slats. Position the 1x3 slat between the inner back leg then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The 1x2s will be positioned between the inner back leg and the inner side slat support. Position the 1x2 slats with ½” spacing between them then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws through the support into the slats.

Cut and Attach Inner Back Slats using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the inner side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Attach Inner Side Slats using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the outer side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Attach Outer Side Slats using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the outer back slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the front slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Attach Outer Back Slats using Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Cut and Attach Front Slats using Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the trim. The angles on the trim are not pretty round numbers, but we can connect the dots to draw them. For the left side trim, measure 7-1/2” down from the outer top corner (your starting point) of the trim piece, make a mark, and draw a perpendicular line across the trim (the end of this line will be your ending point). Draw from your starting point to your ending point, and you will have your needed angle. Likewise for the top trim, measure 6” across from the top left corner (your starting point) of the trim piece, make a mark, and draw a perpendicular line across the trim (the end of this line will be your ending point). Draw from your starting point to your ending point, and you will have your needed angle.  For these angles to work, the chair needs to be square! Cut each a piece a little longer than the dimensions and play with the angles if necessary!

Cut and Fasten Trim for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Aug
30
2014
Reader Showcase // Two Toned Chaise Lounge for FFA Fair DIY Outdoor Kreg Jig Project Plans from Wood using Pocket Hole Screws

I found the plans for your chaise lounge chair and I started constructing it for my FFA fair, for a project that will be judged and showcased.

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 
Length of Time 
Modifications 
Lumber Used 
Finishing Technique 
Additional Project Details 
Reader Showcase // Two Toned Chaise Lounge for FFA Fair DIY Outdoor Kreg Jig Project Plans from Wood using Pocket Hole Screws
Note
drupal counter