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Jul
20
2015
The Design Confidential DIY // Easy Live Edge Shelves + Finishing Technique

I'm excited to share this project with you guys today - and not because it is the first of it's kind - by any means... because it most definitely isn't. Nay, it's because this method for making any sort of project like this is so easy it's stupid. Stupid good - and for you folks who like to play with the big boy tools, this is definitely worth sharing. So I dedicate this fine finishing technique and project to my gal pal Kristin and hereby deem her as the creator of this method and an all around sweetheart too! So yahoo...

If you follow blogs or hang on Pinterest (duh, that would pretty much be all of us), you may have seen a couple of these amaze projects roll through your feed (this one and this one). Her latest version of this organic finishing touch was featured on Domino and is a big focal point in such a fabulous space. Teenage boy, shmeenage boy... let me in there!

So good, right? When it came time to create some surface space in the photography studio (you can see the design plan for that space here) and a few shelves in my home office, I knew this was the perfect thing and would balance out the stark industrial feel of the other elements in both spaces. No space is complete without a healthy dose of texture and a bit of something organic feeling, to breath a bit of life into it.

The Design Confidential DIY // Easy Live Edge Shelves + Finishing Technique

You can see this technique in play in the image above and it provides an added level of interest where function is necessary and I love when that happens! So let's get this show on the road so you can see exactly how easy this is, along with a few extra tips and tricks for doing this successfully!

MATERIALS //

  • Wood - 1x12 or any dimensional lumber you prefer, I used Poplar (my fave) - Something with a gorgeous grain pattern will work best and if you can use a real board rather than joined boards or plywood you will have greater success in making this look realistic.
  • Jig Saw
  • Sander
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies - I recommend a Paste Wax to leave things natural and protect
  • Brackets - if making a shelf - The smaller sizes in 6"x8" or 5"x6" are more ideal if you plan to get creative with your curve.
The Design Confidential DIY // Easy Live Edge Shelves + Finishing Technique

There are essentially only 3 components involved in creating a live edge finish - so simple! You will basically be creating the shape, cutting the curve, and sanding it smooth and you are done. Rather than reiterating Kristin's instructions, I am going to give you some helpful tips below for each of these steps.

CREATING THE SHAPE //

You will start by sketching out the shape of your live edge. If your wood is amazing, you can choose a grain line and go with it. However, if you want to give it more interest than it happens to have, you can create your own grain line like I did above, and I promise as long as you keep your cool, it won't look odd. Just be sure to give your line a realistic curve throughout and keep things irregular. Too much same, same is not so good, good and it will end up looking contrived.

The Design Confidential DIY // Easy Live Edge Shelves + Finishing Technique

Finishing off the edges is just as important as the straightaway portion of your live edge. If you continue with your curves right up until the edge, and then stop, it will look less realistic. Once you know the length your board should be for your project, find a clever and interesting way to finish it off on the ends. I would suggest an asymmetrical shape that curves in more on one side than the other so it mimics real wood that is drifted and has been out in the ocean or the elements for some time just as the real deal might be found in nature.

The Design Confidential DIY // Easy Live Edge Shelves + Finishing Technique

Don't be afraid to get creative. Maybe an extreme indentation or curve won't work for your particular project... so consider a cutaway section and channel your inner whale watcher (doesn't this portion above look like a whale's mouth!).

The Design Confidential DIY // Easy Live Edge Shelves + Finishing Technique

CUTTING THE CURVE //

Once you have your perfect shape with asymmetry and perhaps a cutaway or two, you are going to whip out your jig saw and start cutting.

** It will save you so much time if you have a jig saw with an adjustable cutting angle blade like this one (my fave and really inexpensive) then you can alternate your cutting angle throughout so that some of your curves cut and angle inward and some of your curves angle out like you see above.

The Design Confidential DIY // Easy Live Edge Shelves + Finishing Technique

SANDING IT SMOOTH //

After your edge is live and your project looks amazing, you need to sand those edges smooth to finish it off and complete the look. Since you used a jig saw and altered your cutting angle throughout, you can get away with using a finish sander or any sander that you already have to smooth out your curves and create a rounded look for your edges. This should be a relatively quick process, unlike much of the sanding we have to do when we work with wood and is easiest to do if you start with a medium grit paper of around 100-150 and then you can follow that up with something closer to 220 and above to refine things.

Just as you did with your jig saw, be sure to angle your sander as you go along to get that weathered realistic look you are going for! For tricky spaces and tight corners it helps to fold a small piece of your sandpaper in half with the grit facing outward, then run it through your tight space by hand. It will sand both sides of a tight angle for you and truly smooth and finish every portion of your live edge.

That is it, so super simple and totally gorgeous. Leave it natural or give it a nice paste wax protective finish and call this baby done!

Jul
02
2015
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Cascade Dresser via @thedesconf
Project Details

I'm pretty sure you NEED this dresser... because I need this dresser and 5 more just like it! Check out the really unique handle design on it - and it has TONS of storage to boot! This dresser is a win-win in the looks and function department! What are you waiting for, this long weekend is perfect for letting some sawdust fly!

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. Don't forget... for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Cascade Dresser via @thedesconf

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$200
Dimensions
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Cascade Dresser via @thedesconf
Tools
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x2 at 8’                                                                        
  • 4 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’ (You will have some great scraps left over from this!)
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 21” x 60” – Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 21” x 26-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 26-1/2” x 58-1/2” – Back
  • 6 – 1x2 at 16” – Drawer Guides  
  • 4 - 3/4” plywood at 3-1/4” x 56-3/4” – Small and Large Drawer Backs
  • 4 - 3/4” plywood at 17-1/4” x 58-14” – Small and Large Drawer Bottoms
  • 8 - 3/4” plywood at 3-1/4” x 17-1/4” – Small and Large Drawer Sides
  • 1 - 3/4” plywood at 5-5/8” x 58-1/4” – Small Drawer Front  
  • 3 - 3/4” plywood at 6-3/4” x 58-1/4 “– Large Drawer Front
  • 3 – 1x2 at 40” – Large Drawer Handles  
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Top, Bottom, and Sides. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the tops and bottoms of the Sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws. Apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood if desired.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Cascade Dresser via @thedesconf
Step 2

Cut the piece for the Back. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the top, bottom and sides of the Back. Assemble as shown (with pocket holes facing the inside of the Dresser) with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws. 

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Cascade Dresser via @thedesconf
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Drawer Guides. Position as shown with a 2-1/2” space in the front of the Guide and a 1-3/4” space between the back of the Guide and the Dresser Back.  Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws. 

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Cascade Dresser via @thedesconf
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Cascade Dresser via @thedesconf
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Small Drawer Back, Sides, Bottom, and Front. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the each end of the Sides, each end of the Back, and in the front edge of the Bottom (facing the ground). Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws. Attach the Drawer Bottom to the Sides and Back with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws. The Drawer Front will extend above the Drawer Sides by 1” on the top and by 5/8” beyond the Bottom. Apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood if desired.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Cascade Dresser via @thedesconf
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Large Drawer Backs, Sides, Bottoms, Fronts, and Handles. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the each end of the Sides, Backs, and in the front edge of the Bottoms (facing the ground). Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws. Attach the Drawer Bottom to the Sides and Back with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws. Apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood if desired.

For two of the Large Drawers - the Drawer Front will extend above the Drawer Sides by 2-3/4” on the top and will be flush with the Bottom. Attach the Handles as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws (insert Wood Screws through the Drawer Front into the Handle). 

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Cascade Dresser via @thedesconf
Step 6

For the third Large Drawer - the Drawer Front will extend above the Drawer Sides by 2-7/8” on the top and will leave a 1/8” gap up from the Bottom. Attach the Handle as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws (insert Wood Screws through the Drawer Front into the Handle). After painting, staining, or applying a topcoat - apply a coat of paste wax on the bottom of each drawer as well as on the Drawer Guides. This will allow the drawers to slide smoothly. 

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Cascade Dresser via @thedesconf
Step 7

Install the Small Drawer above the top two Drawer Guides in the Dresser. Next, install two Large Drawers (the ones that are flush on the bottom) in the next two spaces. Finally, install the last Large Drawer into the bottom space. 

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

May
18
2015
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Joe Serb's Equilateral Bench

This bench really caught me eye. I had to make it!

Followed the plans except for the slight modifications I did. Instead of using 2x2's for the frame I used 1x2 poplar. I just kept adding frame pieces until I reached my desired width. Thanks for the plans!

Length of Time 

4 hours

Modifications 

Instead of using 2x2's I used 1x2's and just kept adding sections until I reached my desired width.

Lumber Used 

Poplar.

Finishing Technique 

Outdoor UV block clear.

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Joe Serb's Equilateral Bench
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Joe Serb's Equilateral Bench
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Joe Serb's Equilateral Bench
May
14
2015
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Project Details

Part bunk bed, part play house and if made and finished with the right materials this awesome piece of furniture could be both indoor and outdoor compatible (water seal and all that jazz). If you have been with us here at TDC for any period of time, you probably already know by now that this is my favorite type of build. Multi-functional and the stuff that dreams are made of... Ah, to be a kid again...

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$250-$300
Dimensions
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Tools
Lumber
  • 3 – 2x6 at 8’            
  • 14 – 2x4 at 8’          
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’  
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 5 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 5 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’       
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 58” – Posts                               
  • 2 – 2x4 at 72” – Side Tops                       
  • 2 – 2x4 at 72” – Side Rails                       
  • 2 – 2x4 at 72” – Side Bottoms                 
  • 2 – 2x4 at 19” – Side Short Studs           
  • 2 – 2x6 at 76” – Side Bed Rails              
  • 2 – 1x4 at 76” – Cleats                              
  • 2 – 2x4 at 53” – Side Long Studs                      
  • 2 – 2x4 at 21-1/2” – Rungs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 43” – End Rails                                  
  • 2 – 2x6 at 43” – End Bed Rails                          
  • 2 – 2x4 at 30-1/2” – End Studs              
  • 2 – 2x4 at 43” – End Bottoms                
  • 1 – 2x2 at 79” – Roof Ridge                    
  • 8 – 2x4 at 31” – Rafters                            
  • 12 – 1x3 at 40” – Slats                              
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 27-1/16”x80-1/2” – Upper Back Wall
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 4-1/4”x31-3/4” – Back Wall Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 1-1/4”x72” – Back Wall Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 10-13/16”x80-1/2” – Upper Front Wall
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 48”x80-1/2” – Lower Front Wall
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 46”x80-3/4” – Head Wall
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 1-1/4”x17-1/2” – Door Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 1-3/4”x32-1/2” – Foot Wall Tops
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 2-1/2”x9-3/4” – Foot Wall Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 46”x48” – Foot Wall Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 33-1/4”x80-1/2” – Back Roof
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 4-1/4”x33-1/4” – Small Front Roof
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 55-1/4”x33-1/4” – Large Front Roof

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

For the Back Wall, cut the pieces for the Posts, Side Top, Side Rail, Side Bottom, and Side Short Studs. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Side Top, Side Rail, Side Bottom, and Side Short Studs. Make sure that the pocket holes drilled into the Side Bottom are within the area that will make contact with the Posts. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Side Bed Rail and Cleat. Attach the Cleat to the bottom edge of the Side Bed Rail using 2” Wood Screws. Clamp the Rail/Cleat “set” into place as shown, leaving a 1-1/2” space on each end for the End Rails. The Side Bed Rail, Cleat, and bottom of the Side Rail should be flush with one another. After making sure that everything is completely square and aligned, use a 7/16” Drill Bit to drill through the Side Bed Rail, Cleat, and Post. You should have two holes on each end for the Bolts. Fasten with Carriage Bolts and tighten. 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 3

For the Front Wall, cut the pieces for the Posts, Side Top, Side Bottom, Rungs, and Side Long Studs. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Side Top, Side Bottom, Rungs, and Side Long Studs. Make sure that the pocket holes drilled into the Side Bottom are within the area that will make contact with the Posts. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Side Bed Rail and Cleat. Attach the Cleat to the bottom edge of the Side Bed Rail using 2” Wood Screws. Clamp the Rail/Cleat “set” into place as shown, leaving a 1-1/2” space on each end for the End Rails. The Side Bed Rail, Cleat, and bottom of the Side Rail should be flush with one another. After making sure that everything is completely square and aligned, use a 7/16” Drill Bit to drill through the Side Bed Rail, Cleat, and Post. You should have two holes on each end for the Bolts. Fasten with Carriage Bolts and tighten.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 5

For the Head Wall, cut the pieces for the End Rail, End Bed Rail, End Bottom, and End Stud. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the End Rail, End Bed Rail, End Stud, and End Bottom. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws. 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 6

For the Foot Wall, cut the pieces for the End Rail, End Bed Rail, End Bottom, and End Stud. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the End Rail, End Bed Rail, End Stud, and End Bottom. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws. 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Slats. The Slats will be spaced approximately 4” apart. Attach to the Cleats on each end using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the Rafters and Roof Ridge. Cut the bottom ends of the Rafters at a 45-degree angle as noted. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Rafters. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws. 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Back Wall. If preferred, you can cut the Back Wall out of a solid piece of 3/4” plywood. However, this image shows the Back Wall made of several different pieces – time to use those scrap pieces of 3/4” plywood! Cut the top of the Upper Back Wall at a 45-degree angle. Attach to the back of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws. The Back Wall should be attached to the Bed Frame 1/4” from the ground and have a 3/4” overhang on both sides.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the Front Wall. The Front Wall will be cut in two sections – an Upper and a Lower section since plywood comes in a 48” width. Cut the top of the Upper Front Wall at a 45 degree angle. Make the ladder cut-outs with a drill and jigsaw. For these interior cuts, start at the inside corner of the cut-out and drill a hole slightly larger than the blade of the jigsaw. Insert your jigsaw blade and make your cut. 

When the wall is attached to the Bed Frame, the cut-outs should line up just above a 2x4 for extra support. Attach to the front of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws. The Front Wall should be attached to the Bed Frame 1/4” from the ground and have a 3/4” overhang on both sides.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Head Wall. Attach to the head of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Foot Wall. Attach to the foot of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.

Make the window cut-outs with a drill and jigsaw. For these interior cuts, start at the inside corner of the cut-out and drill a hole slightly larger than the blade of the jigsaw. Insert your jigsaw blade and make your cut.  

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 13

Cut the pieces for the Roof. Each end of the Roof pieces should be cut at a 45-degree angle. Attach to the Rafters and Ridge of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.

That’s it! Experiment with painting the inside of the Bunk Bed a different color than the outside. You can also play around with installing puck or rope lighting… the possibilities are truly endless with this Bunk Bed!

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Apr
13
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Project Details

Nothing says spring like a rocking chair on the porch. I kind of have a thing with chairs that rock... or bounce. I guess I never grew out of that stage from my years as a baby? Who knows, but there is definitely something so soothing about sitting in a rocking chair, listening to the evening sounds. It is even better in the morning, but somehow school routines and young children seem to keep this from happening during the week. A gal can dream though...

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are perfect for beginners, others... not so much). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves!

Showcase: Built From These Plans

Estimated Cost
$50-$100
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 8’ (or use 3/4” plywood, ripped down to 5-1/2” wide) 
Materials
Cut List
  • 1 – 1x2 at 16” – Backrest Top Frame                  
  • 2 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Backrest Side Frames
  • 2 – 1x3 at 2-1/2” – Armrest Supports                  
  • 2 – 1x3 at 21” – Backrest Sides               
  • 5 – 1x4 at 19” – Backrest Slats                            
  • 2 – 1x3 at 23” – Seat Sides                                   
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17-1/2” – Seat Front and Seat Back 
  • 5 – 1x4 at 19” – Seat Slats                                    
  • 2 – 1x3 at 22” – Armrests                                     
  • 2 – 1x3 at 12-1/4” – Side Frame Tops                 
  • 4 – 1x3 at 24-1/2” – Side Frame Sides                
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” – Side Frame Bottoms           
  • 2 – 1x6 at 35” – Rockers   
Instructions

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

/ Click on Images to Enlarge

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Backrest Top Frame and Backrest Side Frames. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Backrest Top Frame. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Armrest Supports, Backrest Sides, and Backrest Slats.

Cut the Armrest Supports as shown. 

Chamfer the top back corner of the Backrest Sides at a 45-degree angle, if desired. You can also “round out” the bottoms of the Backrest Sides as shown. Attach the Backrest Sides to the Backrest Side Frame pieces as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. Attach the Armrest Supports to the Backrest Sides as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws.

Attach the Backrest Slats to the Backrest Top Frame and Backrest Sides as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. 

 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Seat Sides, Seat Front, and Seat Back. Chamfer the bottom front corner of the Seat Sides at a 45-degree angle, if desired. 

With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Seat Front and Seat Back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Seat Slats. Attach the Seat Slats to the Seat Front, Seat Sides, and Seat Back as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Armrests, Side Frame Tops, Side Frame Sides, and Side Frame Bottoms. You can “round out” the outer corners of the Side Frame Sides as noted to allow for better chair movement. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Side Frame Tops and Side Frame Bottoms. Next, drill pocket holes in the top end of the Side Frame Sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat this step for the other side.   

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Rockers. Draw out the shape as shown and cut out with your jigsaw. Make sure you draw a gentle curve. For this project, we used a radius of 62-1/2” for the Rocker curves. If desired, “round out” the end corners of the Rockers with your jigsaw or sander. 

Clamp the Rockers to the Side Frame Sides as shown. Using a 1/4” spade bit, drill holes through both of the clamped pieces. Attach the Rockers to the Side Frames Sides as shown with glue and 1/4” bolts and nuts. Once assembled, you can see what part of the Side Frame Sides extend past the Rockers.  Use your jigsaw or sander to remove this excess wood. Repeat this process with the other side. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 6

Lay one of the Side Frame assemblies on the ground or table, with the pocket holes facing up. Lay the Seat assembly on the Side Frame assembly as shown and secure with clamps. Using a 1/4” spade bit, drill holes through both of the clamped pieces. Attach the Side Frame Sides to the Seat Side as shown with glue and 1/4” bolts and nuts. Repeat this process with the second Side Frame assembly. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 7

Set the Rocking Chair upright. Using clamps, position the Backrest assembly to the Side Frame assemblies as shown. The bottom corner of the Armrest should be flush with the back edge of the Backrest Side and should be set directly on the Armrest Support. Use your 1/4” spade bit to drill through both the clamped pieces where noted. Attach the Side Frame Sides to the Backrest Side as shown with glue and 1/4” bolts and nuts. Repeat this process with the other side.

Just sit back, relax, and rock your worries away! 

Just sit back, relax, and rock your worries away!
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Mar
19
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Project Details

You asked, sweet friends... and so you shall receive! This gorgeous plan in a twin sized version! Of course, you generally always 'receive' when you ask for plans, so I suppose this isn't precisely celebratory, but so many wanted this in twin that I think it is high time you get it! Yahoo! We are working on rolling out all of the other hundreds of project requests, so if you are hoping for something specific, stay tuned or feel free to post it in our community forum so I can keep track of what I am supposed to be working on!

If you prefer plans for the Full Sized version, click here.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$250-$300
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Tools
Lumber
  • 18 – 1/2x4 (rip down 1/2” plywood if lumber is unavailable) at 8’
  • 7 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 15 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 4’x8’
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’
Materials
Cut List
  • // Refer to specific steps in this plan before cutting pieces - some pieces are cut with angled ends and their exact
  • 4 – 2x4 at 65-1/2” – Post A
  • 4 – 2x4 at 63-7/16” – Post B
  • 3 – 2x4 at 36-1/4” – Side Top Rail, Side Middle Rail, and Side Bottom Rail
  • 3 – 2x4 at 74” – Back Top Rail, Back Middle Rail, and Back Bottom Rail
  • 2 – 2x4 at 74” – Front Top Rail and Front Bottom Rail
  • 4 – 2x4 at 22-1/2” – Roof Rafters
  • 6 – 2x4 at 43-1/4” – Floor Joists
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 43-1/4” x 78” – Floor
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/4” x 78” – Back Wall
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 28-1/2” x 40” – Front Wall
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/4” x 42-1/4” –Side Bottom Walls
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 18” x 42” – Side Top Walls
  • 6 – 1x2 at 7-1/8” – Front Top Trim
  • 6 – 1x2 at 13” – Front Bottom Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 38-1/8” – Door Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 16-1/2 – Top and Bottom Window Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 15” – Side Window Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 21” – Stair Hanger
  • 2 – 1x4 at 36-1/4” – Side Ledges
  • 10 – 1x2 at 10-3/4” – Side Bottom Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 14-13/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 10-15/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 6-9/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 74” – Back Ledge
  • 9 – 1x2 at 10-3/4” – Back Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 83-1/2” – Roof Ridge
  • 6 – 1/2x4 at 83-1/2” – Purlins
  • 42 – 1/2x4 at 28” – Roof Slats
  • 2 – 1x8 at 31-15/16” – Stair Sides
  • 2 – 1x8 at 18-3/4” – Steps
  • may differ from the measurements listed below. Measurements listed below are PRE-BEVEL dimensions and the actual end measurements will change once cut according to specific steps.

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for Posts A and Posts B as shown.

Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material. Drill pocket holes in the long side of Post A as shown. Assemble Post A to Post B as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Repeat this process again, but in a “mirrored” assembly as shown in the image. Built a total of two sets of these “mirrored” Post pairs.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Rail, Side Middle Rail, and Side Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of all pieces. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Back Top Rail, Back Middle Rail, and Back Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of all pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Front Top Rail and Front Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of both pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Rafters. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the pieces (avoid drilling pocket screws in the Ridge notch area).

Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Floor Joists. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 7

Cut the piece for the floor. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 8

Cut the piece for the Back Wall. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes on the bottom of the Back Wall piece. Assemble as shown with glue  - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Front Wall. Drill pocket holes on the bottoms of the Front Wall pieces. Assemble as shown with glue  - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the Side Bottom Walls. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill pocket holes on the bottoms of the Side Wall pieces. Assemble as shown with glue  - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Walls. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Front Trim, Door Trim, Window Trim, and Stair Hanger. Assemble the Front Trim, Door Trim, and Window Trim as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Stair Hanger and attach with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 13

Cut the pieces for the Side Bottom Trim and Side Bottom Ledges. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Trim. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 14

Cut the pieces for the Back Trim and Back Ledge. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 15

Cut the piece for the Roof Ridge. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, nailed through the Rafters.

Step 16

Cut the pieces for the Purlins. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The ends of the Purlins should extend 1-1/4” past the Rafters.

Step 17
Step 17 Image 

Cut the pieces for the Roof Slats. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Roof Slats should be spaced 1/2” apart from each other and extend approximately 1-1/2” past the Front and Back Rails. The first and last Roof Slats should be flush with the Roof Ridge.

Step 18

Cut the pieces for the Stair Sides and Steps.

Drill pocket holes in the both ends of the steps. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws – make sure the pocket holes face the ground when assembling. Place on the Stair Hanger as shown and climb on in!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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