Browse all Free Woodworking Plans that Require a Jig Saw

Apr
13
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Project Details

Nothing says spring like a rocking chair on the porch. I kind of have a thing with chairs that rock... or bounce. I guess I never grew out of that stage from my years as a baby? Who knows, but there is definitely something so soothing about sitting in a rocking chair, listening to the evening sounds. It is even better in the morning, but somehow school routines and young children seem to keep this from happening during the week. A gal can dream though...

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are perfect for beginners, others... not so much). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$50-$100
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 8’ (or use 3/4” plywood, ripped down to 5-1/2” wide) 
Materials
Cut List
  • 1 – 1x2 at 16” – Backrest Top Frame                  
  • 2 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Backrest Side Frames
  • 2 – 1x3 at 2-1/2” – Armrest Supports                  
  • 2 – 1x3 at 21” – Backrest Sides               
  • 5 – 1x4 at 19” – Backrest Slats                            
  • 2 – 1x3 at 23” – Seat Sides                                   
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17-1/2” – Seat Front and Seat Back 
  • 5 – 1x4 at 19” – Seat Slats                                    
  • 2 – 1x3 at 22” – Armrests                                     
  • 2 – 1x3 at 12-1/4” – Side Frame Tops                 
  • 4 – 1x3 at 24-1/2” – Side Frame Sides                
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” – Side Frame Bottoms           
  • 2 – 1x6 at 35” – Rockers   
Instructions

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

/ Click on Images to Enlarge

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Backrest Top Frame and Backrest Side Frames. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Backrest Top Frame. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Armrest Supports, Backrest Sides, and Backrest Slats.

Cut the Armrest Supports as shown. 

Chamfer the top back corner of the Backrest Sides at a 45-degree angle, if desired. You can also “round out” the bottoms of the Backrest Sides as shown. Attach the Backrest Sides to the Backrest Side Frame pieces as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. Attach the Armrest Supports to the Backrest Sides as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws.

Attach the Backrest Slats to the Backrest Top Frame and Backrest Sides as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. 

 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Seat Sides, Seat Front, and Seat Back. Chamfer the bottom front corner of the Seat Sides at a 45-degree angle, if desired. 

With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Seat Front and Seat Back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Seat Slats. Attach the Seat Slats to the Seat Front, Seat Sides, and Seat Back as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Armrests, Side Frame Tops, Side Frame Sides, and Side Frame Bottoms. You can “round out” the outer corners of the Side Frame Sides as noted to allow for better chair movement. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Side Frame Tops and Side Frame Bottoms. Next, drill pocket holes in the top end of the Side Frame Sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat this step for the other side.   

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Rockers. Draw out the shape as shown and cut out with your jigsaw. Make sure you draw a gentle curve. For this project, we used a radius of 62-1/2” for the Rocker curves. If desired, “round out” the end corners of the Rockers with your jigsaw or sander. 

Clamp the Rockers to the Side Frame Sides as shown. Using a 1/4” spade bit, drill holes through both of the clamped pieces. Attach the Rockers to the Side Frames Sides as shown with glue and 1/4” bolts and nuts. Once assembled, you can see what part of the Side Frame Sides extend past the Rockers.  Use your jigsaw or sander to remove this excess wood. Repeat this process with the other side. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 6

Lay one of the Side Frame assemblies on the ground or table, with the pocket holes facing up. Lay the Seat assembly on the Side Frame assembly as shown and secure with clamps. Using a 1/4” spade bit, drill holes through both of the clamped pieces. Attach the Side Frame Sides to the Seat Side as shown with glue and 1/4” bolts and nuts. Repeat this process with the second Side Frame assembly. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 7

Set the Rocking Chair upright. Using clamps, position the Backrest assembly to the Side Frame assemblies as shown. The bottom corner of the Armrest should be flush with the back edge of the Backrest Side and should be set directly on the Armrest Support. Use your 1/4” spade bit to drill through both the clamped pieces where noted. Attach the Side Frame Sides to the Backrest Side as shown with glue and 1/4” bolts and nuts. Repeat this process with the other side.

Just sit back, relax, and rock your worries away! 

Just sit back, relax, and rock your worries away!
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Mar
19
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Project Details

You asked, sweet friends... and so you shall receive! This gorgeous plan in a twin sized version! Of course, you generally always 'receive' when you ask for plans, so I suppose this isn't precisely celebratory, but so many wanted this in twin that I think it is high time you get it! Yahoo! We are working on rolling out all of the other hundreds of project requests, so if you are hoping for something specific, stay tuned or feel free to post it in our community forum so I can keep track of what I am supposed to be working on!

If you prefer plans for the Full Sized version, click here.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$250-$300
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Tools
Lumber
  • 18 – 1/2x4 (rip down 1/2” plywood if lumber is unavailable) at 8’
  • 7 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 15 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 4’x8’
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’
Materials
Cut List
  • // Refer to specific steps in this plan before cutting pieces - some pieces are cut with angled ends and their exact
  • 4 – 2x4 at 65-1/2” – Post A
  • 4 – 2x4 at 63-7/16” – Post B
  • 3 – 2x4 at 36-1/4” – Side Top Rail, Side Middle Rail, and Side Bottom Rail
  • 3 – 2x4 at 74” – Back Top Rail, Back Middle Rail, and Back Bottom Rail
  • 2 – 2x4 at 74” – Front Top Rail and Front Bottom Rail
  • 4 – 2x4 at 22-1/2” – Roof Rafters
  • 6 – 2x4 at 43-1/4” – Floor Joists
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 43-1/4” x 78” – Floor
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/4” x 78” – Back Wall
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 28-1/2” x 40” – Front Wall
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/4” x 42-1/4” –Side Bottom Walls
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 18” x 42” – Side Top Walls
  • 6 – 1x2 at 7-1/8” – Front Top Trim
  • 6 – 1x2 at 13” – Front Bottom Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 38-1/8” – Door Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 16-1/2 – Top and Bottom Window Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 15” – Side Window Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 21” – Stair Hanger
  • 2 – 1x4 at 36-1/4” – Side Ledges
  • 10 – 1x2 at 10-3/4” – Side Bottom Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 14-13/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 10-15/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 6-9/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 74” – Back Ledge
  • 9 – 1x2 at 10-3/4” – Back Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 83-1/2” – Roof Ridge
  • 6 – 1/2x4 at 83-1/2” – Purlins
  • 42 – 1/2x4 at 28” – Roof Slats
  • 2 – 1x8 at 31-15/16” – Stair Sides
  • 2 – 1x8 at 18-3/4” – Steps
  • may differ from the measurements listed below. Measurements listed below are PRE-BEVEL dimensions and the actual end measurements will change once cut according to specific steps.

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for Posts A and Posts B as shown.

Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material. Drill pocket holes in the long side of Post A as shown. Assemble Post A to Post B as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Repeat this process again, but in a “mirrored” assembly as shown in the image. Built a total of two sets of these “mirrored” Post pairs.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Rail, Side Middle Rail, and Side Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of all pieces. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Back Top Rail, Back Middle Rail, and Back Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of all pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Front Top Rail and Front Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of both pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Rafters. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the pieces (avoid drilling pocket screws in the Ridge notch area).

Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Floor Joists. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 7

Cut the piece for the floor. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 8

Cut the piece for the Back Wall. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes on the bottom of the Back Wall piece. Assemble as shown with glue  - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Front Wall. Drill pocket holes on the bottoms of the Front Wall pieces. Assemble as shown with glue  - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the Side Bottom Walls. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill pocket holes on the bottoms of the Side Wall pieces. Assemble as shown with glue  - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Walls. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Front Trim, Door Trim, Window Trim, and Stair Hanger. Assemble the Front Trim, Door Trim, and Window Trim as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Stair Hanger and attach with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 13

Cut the pieces for the Side Bottom Trim and Side Bottom Ledges. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Trim. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 14

Cut the pieces for the Back Trim and Back Ledge. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 15

Cut the piece for the Roof Ridge. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, nailed through the Rafters.

Step 16

Cut the pieces for the Purlins. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The ends of the Purlins should extend 1-1/4” past the Rafters.

Step 17
Step 17 Image 

Cut the pieces for the Roof Slats. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Roof Slats should be spaced 1/2” apart from each other and extend approximately 1-1/2” past the Front and Back Rails. The first and last Roof Slats should be flush with the Roof Ridge.

Step 18

Cut the pieces for the Stair Sides and Steps.

Drill pocket holes in the both ends of the steps. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws – make sure the pocket holes face the ground when assembling. Place on the Stair Hanger as shown and climb on in!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Mar
13
2015
Project Details

This cute thing is a handsome fella, don't you think? I love a nightstand with some interest and the spacing between the trunk and the legs is just the thing, I think, to give this guy something extra in the looks department!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$25-$75
Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’ (will have some left over)
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’ (will have some left over)
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’ (will have some left over)
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 4’x4’ 
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 12” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 17” – Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17-1/2” – Center Supports
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 19”x19-1/2” – Cabinet Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 4”x20” – Cabinet Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 3-1/2”x19” – Cabinet Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 20”x20” – Cabinet Top
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 17-1/2”x18-3/4” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 2-1/2”x17-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 3”x18-3/4” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 3-7/8”x18-3/4” – Drawer Front
Instructions

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Have fun and be sure to take pictures along the way, then you can share them with us to gawk over in a showcase post or via social media using the hashtag #builtTDCtuff - just be sure to tag me @thedesignconfidential or @thedesconf so I am sure to see your hard work! Yahoo

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Legs as shown. 

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Aprons. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Apron. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Center Supports. Mark out the curves as shown and cut out with your jigsaw. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Center Support. 

Step 4

Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Just a quick note – paint/stain these supports a different color than the other pieces of the nightstand for a great pop of color. If these pieces are painted a darker color, the top portion of the Nightstand will seem like it’s floating!

Step 5

Cut the piece for the Cabinet Bottom. With the Kreg jig set for 1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each side of the Cabinet Bottom. Attach to the Center Supports as shown with glue and 1” brad nails or wood screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Sides and Cabinet Back. With the Kreg jig set for 1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Cabinet Back. Apply edge banding if desired to the front of the Cabinet Sides. Attach the Cabinet Sides to the Cabinet Bottom as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.

Step 7

Attach the Cabinet Back to the Cabinet Sides as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.

Step 8

Cut the piece for the Cabinet Top. Apply edge banding to all edges if desired. Attach the Cabinet Top to the Cabinet Sides and Cabinet Back as shown with glue and 1” brad nails or wood screws.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for your Drawer Sides, Drawer Bottom, Drawer Back, and Drawer Front. Apply edge banding to all edges of the Drawer Front if desired. These pieces can be secured using 1” brad nails and glue or 1” wood screws with a countersink bit to predrill and glue. Note that the Drawer Front will overhang the Drawer Box on the bottom by 1/2” and on the top by 3/8”.

Step 10

Slide the fully assembled Drawer into the Cabinet as shown. After sanding, staining, and sealing, you may want to apply a coat of paste wax to the bottoms of the Drawer to help it slide smoothly. Add drawer hardware such as a pull or knob if desired. All you have left to do is dress this cutie up with a beautiful lamp, fresh flowers, and a good book!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Mar
10
2015
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Cameron Corner Entertainment Book Shelf

My son just got a TV for the playroom last year for Christmas. He is 7 yrs old. He loves using netflix and playing his Wii U games. I had everything sitting on plastic totes.

I wanted something better and never could find the right stand to go in there. I needed something to last, but looked nice being in the room. 

I cut out some mouse holes (What they look like to me) for the cables to go through. I decided not to paint the back panels becuase I liked the two tone look it gave.

You can't see them that well in the picture, but I drilled holes in the back panel. They are right under each shelf. I did that to help vent some the of the hot air that either gaming system puts out when running for a such a longer period of time. You dont even see them when your looking at the front of it.

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Cameron Corner Entertainment Book Shelf
Estimated Cost 

$100-$120

Length of Time 

3 weeks 

Modifications 

I had to switch to the 1-1/4 pocket hole screws when attaching the legs to the side panels. The 2" screws were splitting my 2x2 legs. 

Lumber Used 

3/4 & 1/4 Oak Plywood

3 2x2 8' 

3 1x2 8' Spruce-Pine-Fir Furring Strip 

Finishing Technique 

Cabot 1-Quart Smoke Paprika Oil Modified Wood Stain (Satin)

 

 

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Cameron Corner Entertainment Book Shelf
Mar
05
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Project Details

Spring is in the air, is it not? I am getting an early start on all of my spring planting in the hopes that my garden babies will weather the extreme heat of the summer if they have a bit more time to get established. Fingers crossed it all works out and we don't have so many casualties as we typically do, eek! 

To view 1000's of other free woodworking plans, visit our plan index.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$25-$50
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Tools
Lumber
  • 6 – 2x4 at 8’ 
Materials
Cut List
  • 18 – 2x4 at 13-3/4” – Sides
  • 3 – 2x4 at 32-1/8” – Primary Centers
  • 12 – 2x4 at 14-3/4” – Secondary Sides
  • 1 – 2x4 at 3-1/2” – Centerpiece
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Sides. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both outside ends of each piece (noted in graphic) and along the bottom long end of 12 of the 18 Sides. See Step 6 for more detail of the Sides.

Top View of Side

The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Primary Centers. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes along the bottom long end of 2 of the 3 Primary Centers. Make sure to keep the pockets holes away from the last 5 inches of each end.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Secondary Centers. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes along the bottom long end of 8 of the 12 Secondary Centers.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Step 4

Create the First Level by laying out the Sides, Primary Center, and Secondary Centers as shown in the graphic. Note that many of the First Level pieces do not have pocket holes along their long edges. Assemble with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Step 5

Create the Second Level by laying out the Sides, Primary Center, and Secondary Centers as shown in the graphic. Assemble with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Step 6

Create the Third Level by laying out the Sides, Primary Center, and Secondary Centers as shown in the graphic. Assemble with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Step 7

Cut the Centerpiece. Attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” wood screws. This Centerpiece will help keep the Secondary Centers “locked” into place since no pocket screws will be used to secure them into place.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Step 8
Step 9
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Feb
23
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Project Details

I adore this beauty and I think it would make a fabulous nightstand... even though it isn't a nightstand. I suppose I have a history of making unlikely pieces into nightstands and I can see a future for this baby in the empty space along the wall where my bed lives. Of course I can see this beauty in about a dozen other ideal spots in my home, so maybe they will have to fight it out...

To browse 1000's of other free DIY furniture + project plans, visit our Plan Index

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$100-$150
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Tools
Lumber
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 3 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x2 at 60” – Frame Side Fronts
  • 2 – 1x2 at 59” – Frame Side Backs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 7-1/4” – Frame Side Tops
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12-1/4” – Frame Side Middles
  • 2 – 1x2 at 14-3/4” – Frame Side Bottoms
  • 2 – 1x4 at 50-1/2” – Frame Bottom Front and Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 50-1/2” - Frame Top Back
  • 2 - 3/4” plywood at 18”x50-1/2” – Bottom Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 2 - 3/4” plywood at 10-3/4”x18” – Bottom Cabinet Sides
  • 1 - 3/4” plywood at 10-3/4”x49” – Bottom Cabinet Back
  • 1 - 3/4” plywood at 10-3/4”x17-1/4” – Bottom Cabinet Vertical Divider
  • 1 – 1x2 at 20” – Bottom Cabinet Horizontal Divider
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 9”x15”– Large Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 15”x25-3/4”– Large Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 9”x27-1/4”– Large Drawer Back
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 10-1/2”x28”– Large Drawer Front
  • 4 – 3/4” plywood at 3-3/4”x15”– Small Drawer Sides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 15”x17-1/2”– Small Drawer Bottoms
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 3-3/4”x19”– Small Drawer Backs
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 4-3/4”x19-3/4”– Small Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x19-3/4”– Small Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x50-1/2”– Top Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x18-1/4”– Top Cabinet Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18-1/4”x49”– Top Cabinet Back
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 17-1/4”x18-1/4”– Top Cabinet Vertical Divider
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/4”x28-1/4”– Top Cabinet Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x19-3/4”– Left Cabinet Door
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x28”– Right Cabinet Desk/Door
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Frame Side Fronts, Side Backs, Side Tops, Side Middles, and Side Bottoms. Cut decorative curves in the Side Tops, Side Middles, and Side Bottoms as shown. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Side Tops, Side Middles, and Side Bottoms. Just a reminder to drill pocket holes after cutting the 8 degree angles in the pieces.

Frame Sides Detail for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Frame Side Top for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Frame Side Middle for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Frame Side Bottom for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 2

Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat twice, once for each side. If desired, have the pocket holes face the inside of the Desk.

Frame Sides Positioned for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Top Back, Bottom Front, and Bottom Back. Cut a decorative curve in the Bottom Front and Bottom Back as shown. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Top Back, Bottom Front, and Bottom Back.

Frame Front Back Detail for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 4

Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Frame Front Back for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 5

Next, cut the pieces for the Bottom Cabinet Top, Sides, and Bottom. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the top and bottom of the Sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Bottom Cabinet Top Bottom Sides for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 6

Cut the piece for the Bottom Cabinet Back. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each side of the Back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Face the pocket screws toward the inside of the Cabinet if desired.

Bottom Cabinet Back for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 7

Cut the piece for the Bottom Cabinet Horizontal Divider and the Bottom Cabinet Vertical Divider. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Horizontal Divider and the top, bottom, and back of the Vertical Divider.  Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Bottom Cabinet Vertical Divider for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Bottom Cabinet Horizontal Divider for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the Large Drawer Sides and Bottoms. Drill pocket holes in the front and back of the Sides and in all sides of the Bottoms. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Large Drawer Bottom Sides for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Large Drawer Backs. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Large Drawer Back for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the Large Drawer Fronts. The top of the Large Drawer Front will extend 1” above the drawer box top, 3/8” beyond the drawer box sides, and 1/2” beyond the drawer box bottom. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Install the ball-bearing slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. Once installed, there should be a 1/8” gap on each side of the Drawer Front.

Large Drawer Front for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Small Drawer Sides and Bottoms. Drill pocket holes in the front and back of the Sides and in all sides of the Bottoms. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat twice - once for each Small Drawer.

Small Drawers Bottom Sides for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Small Drawer Backs. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat twice - once for each Small Drawer.

Small Drawer Back for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 13

Cut the pieces for the Small Drawer Fronts. The top of the Small Drawer Front will extend 1” above the drawer box top, 3/8” beyond the drawer box sides, and 1/2” beyond the drawer box bottom. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat twice - once for each Small Drawer.

Install the ball-bearing slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. Once installed, there should be a 1/8” gap on each side of the Drawer Front.

Small Drawer Front for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 14

Next, cut the pieces for the Top Cabinet Top, Sides, and Bottom. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the top and bottom of the Sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws

Top Cabinet Top Bottom Sides for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 15

Cut the piece for the Top Cabinet Back. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each side of the Back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Face the pocket screws toward the inside of the Cabinet if desired.

Top Cabinet Back for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 16

Cut the piece for the Top Cabinet Vertical Divider. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the top and bottom of the Divider. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Top Cabinet Divider for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 17
Step 17 Image 
Top Cabinet Doors for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary

Cut the piece for the Top Cabinet Shelf. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the each side and back of the Shelf. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 18
Cabinet Positions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary

Lay the assembled Frame on its back so that assembly is easier (temporarily remove Drawers and Cabinet Doors to reduce weight). Insert the assembled Top Cabinet and assembled Bottom Cabinet as shown. Attach the Cabinets to the Frame with glue and 1-1/2” wood screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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