Browse all Free Woodworking Plans that Require a Jig Saw

Jul
09
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table. This beauty can be adapted to suit your needs, with modifications to make this build that much more unique. This table is suitable for indoor or outdoor use depending on what you choose to construct it out of and how you finish it (hence the mods). Yahoo!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 Sheet 3/4" Plywood
  • 2x4 at 8'
Materials
Cut List

** Your selection of lumber can be chosen to reflect your particular use. For outdoor use, choose something that will wear well such as redwood or cedar if possible (or finish with a good sealant) and if you plan to finish the table top with concrete, you can choose a relatively inexpensive plywood that isn't pretty but will get the job done. 

2 - 48" Round Circles from 3/4" Plywood

4 - 2x4 at 26 1/2" - Legs

1 - 2x4 at 32 1/2" - Frame

2 - 2x4 at 14 1/2" - Frame

1 - 2x4 at 43 1/2" - Base

2 - 2x4 at 20" - Base

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

To enlarge the images in this plan, simply click on the image for each step. 

Step 1

Begin by cutting all of your boards to length and drilling your pocket holes if you choose to use a Kreg Jig for construction. Set your jig for 1 1/2" material and place pocket holes in an unconspicuous location. For the Base pieces these are best at the inside edge of the shorter pieces and facing downward so they aren't seen. You will not need pocket holes on the legs but you will need them on the Frame pieces in a similar manner as with the Base pieces only you will also need them on the outside edges of the shorter pieces and the outside edges of the long piece. You will probably want to place these facing up so that they are hidden once you attach your table top. 

To cut your 48" rounds you can begin by cutting your sheet of plywood in half so that you have 2 pieces that are 48" x 48". Then place a nail in the center (find this by drawing a line from corner to corner on the diagonal) and tie a string around it. Then tie a pencil to the other end so that it is just as long as the distance between your nail and the edge of your plywood (on a flat edge not a corner). Holding your pencil upright, pull your string taught and then draw a circle by simply running it around the outside edge in a circular motion, all the way around. Cut 2 of these out using a jig saw or band saw. 

Once you have cut and drilled your pieces, you will lay them out and fasten as you see below in the diagram. You will use glue and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to connect all of your pieces or you can use your countersink bit and 2 1/2" wood screws to fasten the legs to the Frame pieces.  I wouldn't recommend using this method for attaching the shorter Frame pieces to the longer Frame piece if you can help it since you will have to come up and in at an angle and it's difficult to get your screw sunken deeply enough this way. 

We are working from the top down in constructing the base frame of the table so you will flip your base frame over before attaching the table top to it. 

Constructing the Frame and Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Step 2

Begin this step by attaching the Base Pieces to each other using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue. Just like in the previous step you will want your pocket holes to be inconspicuous so you will have them facing up if your table looks like mine below. Your pocket holes will be place on the inside of the shorter Base pieces to attach them to the longer Base piece. Then you will place this X shape onto your base frame as shown in the previous step. There will be a 4" overhang of the Base pieces to the legs. 

You will then switch to your countersink bit and predrill down through the Base pieces and into the legs. Then fasten in place using glue and your 2 1/2" wood screws. 

Attaching the Base for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Step 3

Once your glue has finished setting up and all of your base frame is assembled, you will focus on securing your 2 table top rounds together using glue and 1 1/4" wood screws in a few select spots. Be sure to countersink for a more finished appearance and just in case you accidentally place a screw where your top meets your base frame. 

Then place your base frame onto your 2 table top rounds and attach using your countersink bit to predrill and your 2 1/2" wood screws. Attach through the Frame pieces in several places all along the length of the frame pieces. Don't make swiss cheese here, but make sure you have your base frame attached to your table top well enough that it doesn't come off when you attempt to flip this upright. 

The top should overhang the base frame by 6 1/4" on all sides. 

Fastening the Table Top in Place for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Step 4

Flip your table upright and either apply edge banding to the table top rounds, fill the edges of your top with wood filler and sand smooth prior to finishing and sealing, or cover the table top with a thin layer of concrete. The idea here would be to simply give it a concrete finish (thin layer) rather than creating an actual concrete table top, which would be extremely heavy and not desirable for this piece. Follow the instructions from the manufacterer of your products for proper directions on the application. 

Optional Concrete Finish for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jul
03
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart. Short on space? Need a versatile piece that you can use inside and outside? This Kitchen Island Cart would be the perfect BBQ companion for you summer soirees and a fabulous addition to your kitchen arsenal! Can't wait to see your builds of this!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 31-1/4” – Legs
  • 8 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 16-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 8 – 1x2 at 40” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 40” – Back Panel
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 40” – Shelf
  • 11 – 1x3 at 16-1/2” – Slats
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 18” – Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/2” x 45” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 17-1/8” - Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 18-5/8” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 20-1/8” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side frame pieces as well as both long edges of the panels. Secure two of the frame pieces to the top and bottom of each panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face out from the panel. Attach the assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

The lower side frame pieces will be positioned on end with the back face flush with the inside face of the legs. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Build the Cart Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame pieces, the back panel, and the back stretchers. Drill pocket holes ine ach end of the frame pieces as well as each end of the stretchers. Secure two of the frame pieces to the top and bottom of the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face out from the panel. Attach the assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

The lower stretchers will be positioned on end with the back face flush with the inside face of the legs. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Diagram of Cart Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the lower front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of each piece will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Instructions for Building the Lower Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 4

Cut the piece for the shelf and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the lower stretchers and frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom face of the shelf will be flush with the bottom of the stretchers and frame pieces.

Instructions for Building the Cart Shelf for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Position them so that there is approximately 1-1/4” spacing between them. Secure to the longer front and back stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.Cut the pieces for the slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Position them so that there is approximately 1-1/4” spacing between them. Secure to the longer front and back stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.Cut the pieces for the slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Position them so that there is approximately 1-1/4” spacing between them. Secure to the longer front and back stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Instructions for attaching the Cart Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the upper front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Instructions for attaching the Front Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 7

 

Cut the piece for the divider. Cut the notch using a jigsaw. Position the divider as shown and secure to the back and front stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the stretchers and through the back.

Instruction for the Cart Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Attaching the Cart Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang all sides by 1”. Secure to the stretchers and legs using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Instructions for cutting and attaching the Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Make any necessary adjustments.

 

Drawer Box Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Drawer Box Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Position the drawer fronts so that ¼” overlaps on all sides, then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

For all drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

To view enlarged images, simply click on them to expand. 

Jun
13
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Project Details

While we are hard at work reenginering most of our outdoor seating and lounge plans to work with less expensive cushions, I thought I would bring you a gorgeous modern buffet build! This large piece would be fabulous in an entryway or whever you need extra strorage including it's potential use in a bedroom and as a place to set your tv! A buffet is ust so versitile really, don't you think? 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 9 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 56-1/2” – Base Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 13” – Base Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 58-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 31-3/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 31-3/4” x 57” – Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 57” – Lower Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x2 at 24” – Lower Dividers
  • 6 – 2x2 at 15-3/4” – Shelf Supports & Drawer Slide Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 57” – Shelf
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6-1/4” – Upper Dividers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 58-1/2” – Upper Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 58-1/2” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 17” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 36 – 1x3 at 19-1/4” – Drawer Front Slats & Door Slats
  • 6 – 1x3 at 23-3/4” – Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Base Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position on the base so that 1” overlaps the sides and back (1/4” will overlap the front edge). Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Buffet Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each of the shorter edges. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Buffet Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Buffet Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 5

Cut the piece for the lower stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the lower dividers and shelf supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the dividers. Attach to the bottom and lower stretcher as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the shelf supports as shown. Secure the outer supports to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the outer face of the sides into the support. Secure the inner supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the dividers and back into the ends of the supports.

DIY Buffet Lower Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
DIY Buffet Lower Divider Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 6

Cut the piece for the shelf. Position as shown, then secure to the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Buffet Shelf for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the upper dividers and supports. Drill pocket holes in one end only of the dividers and secure to the lower stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the drawer slide supports as shown. Secure the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the dividers and back into the ends of the supports.

Upper Divider Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 8

Cut the piece for the upper stretcher. Secure to the cabinet sides and upper dividers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the front by ½”. Secure to the sides, back, and upper stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Install the drawer, then make any necessary adjustments.

Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer front slats. Install the front slats on the outer drawers first. The outside edge of the pieces will be flush with the outer face of the sides and there will be a 1/8” gap between the upper slat and the upper stretcher. Position the slats as indicated then secure to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the slats into the drawer boxes. There will be a 3/8” gap between the outer drawer front slats and the center drawer front slats with a 1/8” gap between the upper slat and the upper stretcher. Position the slats as indicated then secure to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the slats into the drawer boxes.

Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the doors. Position the slats as indicated in the drawing. Secure the vertical pieces using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Install the European hinges according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Install the outer doors first, with the outside edges flush with the outside face of the sides. The bottom edge of the doors will be flush with the bottom. Make any necessary adjustments.

Install the center door with a 3/8” gap between the outer doors and the center door using the regular cabinet hinges mounted to the face of the divider. Make any necessary adjustments.

Door for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Doors for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jun
10
2014
Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Round Provence Beam Outdoor Dining Table

My dad brought me a bunch of redwood that had been leftover from a deck he had built. It sat around for a while before I woke up one morning with a grand idea to build a table with it. I have never built anything out of wood before but have always wanted to! I was very excited to get started right away. We have a spot in our backyard that really needs a round table (not rectangular or square) so it was important to me that the table be round. 

 

I did a google search for how to build a round picnic type table. After looking at several different options, I found The Design Confidential and this 48" Provence table plan. It looked like exactly what I was looking for, but I still wasn't sure I had what it would take to complete it!

 

Estimated Cost 

This project likely cost me a little more than stated in the plans because of the fact that I didn't have all the tools necessary to begin, such as the sander and a jigsaw blade.

 

Length of Time 

4 days

Modifications 

I didn't want my table to be quite as tall as was listed in the plans, so I shortened the length of the middle post by several inches under what is stated. Also, I was starting with 24" long 2"x6" pieces of redwood so I had to secure those to a 48" base in order to use them as the table top. I bought a piece 1/4" plywood (I think that thickness) and cut it into a 48" circle, Then using liquid nails, I glued the boards to the top the way I wanted them to be arranged. I then flipped it over and nailed the bottom so all the boards were secure. Since the boards were all still 24", I had a lot of over hang so I propped this up, facedown, on some bricks and cut around the circle with my jigsaw to match the piece of plywood.

 

I did not have a Kreg Jig as is indicated so I had to drill angled holes.

In retrospect, I should have used thicker plywood as this was a bit bendy until I was able to secure it to the base.

 

Lumber Used 

Redwood

Finishing Technique 

Sanding. I haven't yet stained or sealed it in the pictures posted, though I plan on doing so.

Tracing the Circle for Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Round Provence Beam Dining Table
Table Top for Support for Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Round Provence Beam Dining Table
Lumber for Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Round Provence Beam Dining Table
Table Top and Lumber for Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Round Provence Beam Dining Table
Table Top for Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Round Provence Beam Dining Table
Angled Table Base for Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Round Provence Beam Dining Table
Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Round Provence Beam Dining Table
May
14
2014
Project Details

I hope the weather is finally starting to warm up wherever you happen to live and you have DIY outdoor furniture building on the brain. I know I sure do! My little seester is getting married in July so it seems like there is so very much to do between now and then, and quite honestly I'm not sure how much building I will have the chance to do between now and then. Luckily I have all of you amazing builders to live vicariously through... Yipee for that.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Nova Outdoor End Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 19-1/2” – Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 16-1/2” - Bottom
  • 4 – 1x3 at 16-1/2” – Side Slats
  • 12 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Side Slats
  • 4 – 1x3 at 18” – Front & Back Slats
  • 12 – 1x2 at 18” – Front & Back Slats
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 18” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the legs and bottom. Cut the notches in the bottom using a jigsaw. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom as shown. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws.

How to Build the Table Bottom and Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Nova Outdoor End Table
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Position them with approximately ¼” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

How to Build the Sides using Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Nova Outdoor End Table
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front and back slats. Attach the slats to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The slat spacing should match that of the sides.

Fasten the Front and Back Slats in Place for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Nova Outdoor End Table
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Install the continuous hinge to the box, then to the top. Add the lid stays, if desired.

Construct the Lid for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Nova Outdoor End Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

May
01
2014
Project Details

This fabulous ottoman pairs perfectly with the Sawyer Adirondak Outdoor Chair! What an amazing duo of DIY furniture these two projects are! The most difficult portion of this plan is the freehand cutting, and even that should actually be a bit of a fun challenge, nothing to difficult that you can’t tackle! All of the marking and and measuring should be quite fun! Did I mention this plan is inexpensive to build?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’ ** you can purchase a fence board like this for savings, or use your plywood and cut it into strips.
  • 1 – 1x6 at 6’ **you can purchase a fence board like this for big savings or use your plywood and cut it into strips. You will need to rip this down into 4 1/2” strip for the Slats.
  • 1 –  4'x4' sheet of 3/4" plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4" plywood at 15" x 19"
  • 2 – 1x4 at 22 1/2” Aprons
  • 3 – 1x6 (ripped down into 4 1/2” width strips) at 22 1/2”
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut Out your Legs: The first diagram shows you the lengths of each side you will cut and the actual dimensions of your leg unit. You will need two identical units like this that will mirror each other so you may want to flip your sheet to mark out the other panel. The image below shows you where these cuts sits relative to the edges of your plywood. 

Step 2

Cut Out your Legs: This is your guide for locating your leg panel. It helps you place your panel properly so you can get the correct angles without working overtime with fancy cuts and tools. Use a jigsaw or circular saw to cut this shape out of your plywood sheet. You will need two of these that mirror each other, so consider flipping your sheet over to place your second panel. 

Step 3

Attach the Ottoman Aprons: Using your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue you will fasten the pieces together as shown below. The Aprons will be placed 1 1/4” from the top of the Front Edge and the Top of the Back edge.

Step 4

Rip your Slats down to Size: Beginning with a 1x6, you will rip your boards into a 4 1/2” width (shaving off 1” from the actual width of a 1x6) and then tack them down 1/2” from the Top Edge of the Top Leg, and space them 1” Apart. Use Galvanized Nails or Screws to Fasten in Place.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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