Browse all Free Woodworking Plans that Require a Jig Saw

Mar
10
2014
Project Details

This console table doubles as a bookshelf and storage unit. Build two units and wrap a corner of your sofa, or build several and line the whole back side of that baby! I am currently using two expedit shelving units on the backside of my floating sofa, so for those of you who don't have a wall to place your sofa along, this is a fabulous solution.  With a modern shape and a low profile, it serves double duty by giving you a storage solution and providing you with a bit of a room divider at the same time. Xx... Rayan 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • ½ sht. ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List

All pieces are cut from ¾” plywood and the grain should run parallel to the longest side except as noted–

  • 3 – 10” x 38” - Shelves
  • 1 – 6-1/2” x 9-1/4” – Upper Divider
  • 1 – 9-1/4” x 12-1/4” – Lower Divider * Grain will run parallel with 9-1/4” side
  • 1 – 6-1/2” x 29-3/4” – Upper Back
  • 1 – 12-1/4” x 29-3/4” – Lower Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut all pieces as indicated. It would be a good idea to sand each piece after cutting and drilling the pocket holes because sanding after assembly may be difficult! Also, if you choose to use edge banding on the plywood edges, this would be a good time to apply that to all edges that will be exposed. If you prefer to leave them exposed, sand really well. Using the Kreg jig set for ¾” material and the Lower Divider, drill pocket holes along the 9-1/4” edges. Attach with 1-1/4” screws to one of the Shelves (this will be the lower shelf), 8-1/4” in from the edge. Make sure the front of the divider is even with the front of the lower shelf. This will allow for attaching the back.

Step 2

Drill pocket holes in the Lower Back piece on each of the 29-3/4” edges. Attach to the lower shelf and to the divider with the pocket holes facing out. See drawing.

Step 3

Lay the middle shelf on this assembly and attach with 1-1/4” screws through the pocket holes on the back and divider pieces.

Step 4

Drill pocket holes in the 9-1/4” edges of the Upper Divider and attach the divider 8-1/4” in from the edge of the middle shelf. Make sure the upper divider is placed opposite of the lower divider. See drawings

Step 5

Drill pocket holes in the Upper Back along the 29-3/4” edges. Fasten to upper divider and middle shelf with 1-1/4” screws.

Step 6

Lay the last 10” x 38” piece on top of the assembly and attach with 1-1/4” screws through the remaining pocket holes in the upper back. Finish as desired.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of The Design Confidential. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.  // Post contains affiliate links

Mar
05
2014
Project Details

On Monday we posted plans for a Children's Two Tone Play Table, and today the most adorable chair to go along side it. I will definitely be building this set, I just can't quite decide who it will be for... the bird or the bug. Probably my older boy, but I'm not entirely sure of my vision for his space just yet.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • 1-1/2” paddle bit or hole saw
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 - 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 15-7/8” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 11-7/16” – Leg Frames (Top)
  • 2 – 2x2 at 9-5/16” – Leg Frames (Stretchers)
  • 2 – 2x2 at 11-1/2” – Upper Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x2 (ripped to 1-1/4” wide) at 11-1/2” – Lower Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7 x 11-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 12” - Seat
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the leg frames. Cut 7° angles in each piece as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top end of the leg pieces, as well as each end of the stretcher pieces. Attach the legs to the top piece using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws, then attach the stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower stretchers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the leg assemblies as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The lower stretcher is ripped to 1-1/4” wide so that it can be positioned on the leg perpendicular to the floor and not stick out past the angle of the legs.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the back. Mark the position for the slots (the center of the holes will be spaced at 5-1/2” on center) and cut a hole at each mark using a 1-1/2” paddle bit or hole saw. Draw a line (vertically) to connect each pair of holes, then cut along the lines with a jigsaw. Cut a 5° bevel in the lower edge of the back piece. This makes the back rest on the seat at an angle making for a comfortable seat!

Step 4

Cut the piece for the seat. Secure the back to the back edge of the seat using countersunk 1-1/2” screws. Position the seat on the frame so that approximately ¾” overlaps the front stretcher and the edge of the back is flush with the back of the arms. Secure in place using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the arms into the back. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the seat to the stretchers.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Kiddos 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post Contains Affiliate Links

Feb
05
2014
Project Image
Project Details

It's the simple projects that really excite me. Somehow I always get myself into long drawn out projects, that go on for days and days, but the simple ones that can be multiplied into an amazing dramatic affect... those are the ones that get me going in the morning! This cellar wine rack could easily double as awesome shelving for just about anything so don't be fooled by the name of this bad boy. Imagine a whole wall (or half of a wall) lined with these gorgeous X's. Wouldn't that be amazing? Yahoo! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 half sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 9” x 19” – Box Frame
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 9” x 20” – Box Frame
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 9” x 26-3/8” - X
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the box frame. Assemble the box frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the X and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Slide the pieces together to form the X insert.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Insert the X into the box frame. It should fit snugly. Secure the X with a few 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
29
2014
Project Image
Project Details

The vintage mid century modern style of this piece is right on trend my friends! What a great way to bring some stylish functionality into your home. Put a tv on top, or use as a buffet in your dining room. This would even be fabulous as more of a dresser or to store some of your children's toys! Whatever your storage need, this would be a great way to handle it! I hope you give this baby a whirl!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x3 at 12-1/2” – Base Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 at 30” – Base Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 46” - Bottom
  • 4 – 1x3 at 19-9/16” - Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 18” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 44-1/2” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 17-1/4” – Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 15” – Drawer Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 46” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” X 14-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x4 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x4 at 14” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 14-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/16” x 16-1/4” - Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position the base as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the legs. Mark the lines for the angles as shown, and cut using the saw of your choice. Drill pocket holes in the top edge noting that there will be two right legs and two left legs. Butt the legs up against the base frame as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the corner brackets to the legs and fasten to the frame for further security.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges. Secure to the bottom on: form-data; name="field_short_title[0][value]" Arden Sideboard

Step 5

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 6

Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back edge. Position as shown, then secure to the bottom and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 8

Cut the piece for the top and secure to the sides, back, and divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides as well as in between. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

/ Posts may contain affiliate links

Jan
27
2014
Project Image
Project Details

There is something so lovely about open shelving that looks at first glance as though it might actually be something else entirely, don't you think? If you need a bit of extra storage in a small area, like your bathroom, or perhaps want to display cute items rather than storing books and such, this piece is the perfect solution! I can't wait to see the variations we get with this! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • ¾” holesaw or paddle bit
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – ¾” dowel at 3’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1 sets of non-mortise hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 65” – Shorter Side Legs
  • 5 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” – Shorter Side Rungs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 75-1/4” – Taller Side Legs
  • 2 – ¾” dowels at 14-1/2” – Upper Rungs (Taller Side)
  • 5 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” – Taller Side Rungs
  • 5 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 13-1/4” – Tray Bottoms
  • 5 – 1x3 at 12” – Tray Back
  • 10 – 1x3 at 14” – Tray Sides
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the shorter side legs. Draw the arc at the top edge of each leg using a compass or a soup can, then cut out using a jigsaw or bandsaw.

Cut the pieces for the shorter side rungs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the taller side legs. Cut a 10 degree angle in the bottom of each leg, and cut the arc using a jigsaw or bandsaw to match the shorter side legs.

Use a ¾” holesaw or paddle bit to cut a ½” deep hole in two places at the top of each leg noting that there will be a right leg and a left leg. Cut two pieces of the dowel rod at 14-1/2” and glue the dowels in the holes of each leg.

Cut the pieces for the rungs. The rungs will be positioned at a 10 degree angle. Measure up 4-1/2” from the front edge of the legs as well as the back edge, and draw a line to connect the two marks. Position the first rung along this line and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Space the remaining rungs accordingly and secure them in the same manner as the first rung.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Install the hinges on each leg assembly as shown.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the trays. Attach the back piece to the back edge of the tray using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Draw the arc on the side pieces using a compass or soup can then cut using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Secure the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Position each of the trays on the rungs with the back edge flush with the back edge of the shorter side rungs. Secure using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
10
2014
Project Details

I love the modern coolness of this piece! A great way to store books or other items in style! Perfect in a kids room or an office space setting. Maybe even as a chic accent piece in a main living area where you aren't ready or able to commit to a full bookcase but still have books to store! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
  • 1” Brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 25-1/2” x 31” – X
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 7” x 31” – Side 1
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 7” x 16-1/2” – Side 2
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 7” x 8-1/2” – Sides 3
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 7” x 7-1/2” – End 1
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 7” x 8” – End 2
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Xs. To draw the curves, use a soup can as a guide then cut out with a jigsaw.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for each of the side pieces. Secure each piece as shown using glue and 1” brad nails making sure the edges are flush as shown.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the ends. Secure each piece as shown using glue and 1” brad nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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