Armoires

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Patchwork Secretary Desk

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Patchwork Secretary Desk! I absolutely love the patchwork pieces from West Elm, so this is heavily inspired by that...allegedly...

Stay tuned because later we will be back with a fun giveaway and a little resolution inspiration!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Scrap of 2x2 measuring approximately 18”
2 – 1x2 at 8’

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
3 sets of Ball bearing drawer slides(like these)
2 sets of roller drawer slides (like these)
2 sets of hinges
One set of drop-down front supports (like these)
Edge banding for plywood, optional
5 cabinet pulls
ne magnetic catch
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x2 at 4” – Legs
2 – 1x2 at 15” – Base Frame
2 – 1x2 at 44” – Base Frame
3 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Base Frame Supports
2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 47” – Top & Bottom
2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 45” – Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 45” x 45-1/2” – Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 45” – Center Divider
3 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 24-3/4” – Drawer Dividers
1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 24-3/4” – Shelf
2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 20” – Fixed Shelves
2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 19” – Slide-Out Shelves
3 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 22-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
6 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 16” – Drawer Sides
3 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 23-3/4” – Drawer Backs
2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 24-1/2” – Small Drawer Fronts
1 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/4” x 24-1/2” – Large Drawer Front
1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Desk Top
1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 44-3/4” - Door

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the legs. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure to the base frame using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the top into the frame.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the center divider. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes previously drilled in the sides, divider, and back.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the drawer dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the fixed shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the pull-out shelves. These shelves will use the roller drawer slides in order to make them moveable. The position is up to you… The upper pull-out shelf can be used for a printer so the height of the printer will have to measured before the shelf can be installed. Mark the position and install the slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer boxes by 3/8”. Install the ball-bearing slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts in the opening.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges on the larger door, then secure the hinges to the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening.

Install the hinges on the bottom of the door used as the desktop. Install the drop down supports according to the manufacturer’s instructions and make any necessary adjustments. Install the magnetic catch at the top of the opening to keep the door closed when not in use. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening.

Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Dayton Locker Media Armoire

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

I'm really excited to post this project because I was excited to find it browsing through my latest PotteryBarn catalog! Absolutely a stunner, to be sure!

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

4 sheets of ¾” plywood
1 sheet of ½” plywood
2 sheets of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
5 – 1x2 at 8’
2 – 1x3 at 8’
2 – 1x4 at 8’
1 – 1x4 at 6’
1 – 1x6 at 4’
1 – 1x8 at 4’
2 – 8’ casing
2 – 8’ baseboard

Materials

1” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
Sliding Door Hardware – Rockler part no. 38905
Edge banding for plywood, if desired
Countersink bit for drill
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x3 at 19” – Side Frames
2 – 1x6 at 19” – Side Frames
2 – 1x8 at 19” (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) – Side Frame
2 – 1x3 at 65-1/4” – Side Frames
2 – ½” plywood at 19” x 24-7/8” – Side Frame Panels
2 – ½” plywood at 19” x 26-3/8” – Side Frame Panels
2 – 1x2 at 22-1/2” – Bottom Shelf Support
1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 91-1/2” – Bottom
2 – 1x4 at 91-1/2” (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) - Bottom Supports
3 – 1x4 at 22-1/2” (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) – Bottom Supports
2 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 61-1/4” – Dividers
18 – 1x2 at 23-1/4” – Side & Center Shelf Supports
6 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 23-1/2” – Side Shelves
2 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/4” x 23-1/4” – Lower Dividers
3 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 43” – Center Shelves
1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 23-1/4” – Upper Divider
1 – ¾” plywood at 25-1/4” x 95” – Top
2 – ¼” plywood at 33” x 93” – Back
2 – Casing & Baseboard Trim at 95” – Upper & Lower Trim
2 – Casing Trim at 25-1/4” – Upper Trim
2 - Baseboard Trim at 25” –Lower Trim

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom supports using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the side panels as shown. Insert into the frames and secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Cut a 1/8” kerf (check manufacturer’s instructions on the door hardware to be sure) across the length approximately ¾” from the front edge. Secure the bottom to the side panels as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the shelf into the supports.

Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in one shorter end only and secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the side shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws locating them ¾” back from the front edge.

Cut the pieces for the side shelves. Secure to the supports using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the shelves into the supports.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the center shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws locating them ¾” back from the front edge.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the lower divider. Drill pocket holes in one long edge only and secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the divider ¾” back from the front edge.

Cut the piece for the lower shelf. Secure to the supports using 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the shelf into the supports as well as into the divider.

Step 7

Attach the next divider and shelf in the same manner as Step 6. Also attach the upper shelf to the shelf supports.

Step 8

Cut the piece for the upper divider and attach in the same manner as the other dividers.

Step 9

Cut the piece for the top. Cut a 1/8” kerf (check manufacturer’s instructions on the door hardware to be sure) across the length approximately 1-1/4” from the front edge. The top willoverlap by 1-1/4" in the front and 3/4" on the sides. Attach with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails through the top into the dividers and sides.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the back. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The measurements for the pieces can be adjusted so that the seam falls behind a shelf.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the doors. Assemble in the same manner as the side frames. Attach the door sliding hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Dayton Locker Media Armoire

Step 12

Cut the pieces for the casing and baseboard trim. Attach the sides first, then the front. Place the upper trim as close to the front edge as possible to allow for the doors to slide.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build PB Teen Inspired Hampton Tower Drawers and Corkboard Bin Part 2

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

We are back with part 2 of this project for the drawers and corkboard bin, after we covered part 1 yesterday (found here). This DIY Furniture plan is sure to solve quite a bit of your storage issues, so get building!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

Scraps of ¾” plywood from the Hampton Tower
Scraps of ¼” plywood from the Hampton Tower
Or…
1 – 1x2 at 6’
3 – 1x3 at 8’
3 – 1x6 at 8’
1 – 1x4 at 6’
3 – ¾ sq. x 3’ dowels
12” sq. cork tile, ¼” thick
Half sheet of ¼” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
6 – Drawer Handles or knobs
Edge banding for the plywood, optional
Router with Rabbeting Bit
Countersink bit for drill
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

(Dimensions for cutting plywood scraps are in parentheses)

1 – 1x2 at 9-5/8” – Corkboard Frame (1-1/2” x 9-5/8”)
2 – 1x2 at 16” – Corkboard Frame (1-1/2” x 16”)
1 – 1x6 at 9-5/8” – Corkboard Frame (1-1/2” x 9-5/8”)
1 – Cork tile at 9” x 9-5/8” - Corkboard
2 – 1x2 at 2-1/2” – Corkboard Bin Sides (1-1/2” x 2-1/2”)
1 – 1x2 at 9-5/8” – Corkboard Bin Bottom (1-1/2” x 9-5/8”)
1 – 1x3 at 11-1/8” – Corkboard Bin Front (2-1/2” x 11-1/8”)
6 – 1x3 at 12-1/2” – Small Drawer Sides (2-1/2” x 12-1/2”)
3 – 1x3 at 16-1/4” – Small Drawer Back (2-1/2” x 16-1/4”)
3 – 1x4 at 16-1/4” ripped to 2-3/4” wide – Small Drawer Front (2-3/4” x 16-1/4”)
6 – 1x6 at 12-1/2” ripped to 5” wide – Large Drawer Sides (5” x 12-1/2”)
3 – 1x6 at 16-1/4” ripped to 5” wide – Large Drawer Back (5” x 16-1/4”)
3 – 1x6 at 16-1/4” ripped to 5-1/4” wide – Large Drawer Front (5-1/4” x 16-1/4”)
6 – ¾ square dowels at 14-3/4” – Drawer Bottom Support
6 – ¼” plywood at 13-1/4” x 16-1/4 – Drawer Bottom

Instructions

Step 1

Corkboard Frame:

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1x2 and the 1x6 pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Using the router and the rabbeting bit, cut a ¼” deep rabbet on the back side of the frame at the opening for the cork. Cut the cork to fit and glue in the opening.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the bin sides and bottom. Attach the sides to the sides of the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach to the frame from the back side with 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the bin sides and bottom.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the front of the bin. Attach to the sides and front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the corkboard to the door with countersunk 1-1/4” screws making sure to avoid the mirror.

Step 4

For the Drawers:

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Assemble as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The drawer fronts will be ¼” longer than the sides and back to accommodate the bottom.

Step 5

Cut the dowel pieces for the bottom support. Attach to the inside of the drawer front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The bottom of the dowel will be flush with the bottom of the sides.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach to the sides and bottom support using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill holes in the front for the knob or handle.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Eastman Secretary

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

An amazing storage piece with a fold down top that allows for the perfect hide away work surface!

Estimated Cost

$150-$200

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

1 – 1x2 at 6’
1 – 1x3 at 6’
1 – 1x4 at 4’
3 full sheets of ¾” plywood
1 full sheet of ¼” plywood
1 half sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
3 sets of 15” drawer slides
8 – Drawer Handles or knobs
2 – Drop Front Supports (go here )
1 Continuous Hinge for Work Surface
Edge banding for the plywood, optional
Countersink bit for Drill
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 51-3/4” – Sides
4 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 30-1/2” – Shelves
2 – 1x2 at 30-1/2” – Back Support & Lower Trim
1 – 1x4 at 30-1/2” – Front Support
1 – ¼” plywood at 32” x 51-3/4” – Back
3 – 1x4 at 7-1/2” – Inner Drawer Cubby Sides & Center
2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2 x 30-1/2” – Inner Drawer Cubby Top & Bottom
1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 33-1/2” – Top
4 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 6” – Cubby Drawer Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 11” – Cubby Drawer Bottom
1 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 13-3/4” – Cubby Drawer Bottom
2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 12-1/2” – Cubby Drawer Front & Back
2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 15-1/4” – Cubby Drawer Front & Back
4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 13-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Sides
2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 13-1/2” – Larger Drawer Box Sides
4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 29-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 29-1/2” – Larger Drawer Box Front & Back
3 – ¼” plywood at 15” x 29-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
1 – 1x3 at 33-1/2” – Lower Trim Front
2 – 1x3 at 16-1/2” – Lower Trim Sides
1 – Casing at 32-3/4” – Upper Front Trim
2 – Casing at 16-1/2” – Upper Side Trim
1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/2” x 30-1/4” – Work Surface Front
2 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Work Surface Trim Stiles
2 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 30-1/4” – Work Surface Trim Rails
2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/4” x 30-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Fronts
4 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 4-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Trim Stiles
4 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 30-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Trim Rails
1 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 30-1/4” – Larger Drawer Front
2 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 8-1/2” – Larger Drawer Front Trim Stiles
2 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 30-1/4” – Larger Drawer Front Trim

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides and shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter ends of the shelves. Secure to sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the spacing indicated.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces and attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The 1x4 piece will go in the front while the 1x2 piece will be in the back.

Cut the piece for the lower trim support and attach to the cabinet under the lowest shelf in the same manner as the other supports.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the inner cubby. Attach the sides to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws flush with the back at the spacing indicated.

Attach the bottom cubby piece first using glue and brad nails through the bottom into the side pieces. Attach the center support at the spacing indicated with brad nails through the bottom into the support. Fasten the top piece in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and center support.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the cubby drawers. Attach the sides to the bottom as shown in the drawing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the bottom. Attach the front and back pieces in the same manner with brad nails through the pieces into the sides and bottom.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the work surface and the trim. Fasten the trim to the work surface front with glue and clamp until dry. Attach the continuous hinge to the work surface, then to the shelf. There will be an approximate 1/8” gap around all sides of the work surface in the opening. Attach the drop front supports according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Fasten to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, front support, and back support. The top will hang over the sides and front by ¾”.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the lower trim. Cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. Attach the side trim first using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the front piece with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the front into the lower support.

Cut the casing pieces for the top side trim with a 45 deg. miter on the front edge. Attach to the sides of the cabinet under the top with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Measure for the front trim and cut this piece with a 45 deg. miter on each end. Fasten to the cabinet in the same manner.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the other drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the side pieces and assemble as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the bottoms and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Attach the drawer slides to the drawers and cabinet following the manufacturer’s instructions. The slides will need to be positioned 1” from the front edge of the cabinet. Do not attach the drawer fronts!

Step 10

Cut the pieces and trim for the drawer fronts. These will be assembled in the same manner as the work surface. After assembly, drill holes for the knobs or handles. Shim the drawer fronts in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and drill screws through the holes for the knobs into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers, and secure the fronts to the boxes using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the knob holes and finish drilling out the holes.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Tall Jewelry Armoire

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

For those ladies who require more space for jewels, here is a taller version of the jewelry armoire. This wall-mount armoire also uses standard mirror tiles found at any big-box store. A shelf could be inserted as desired and this cabinet could be used for a myriad of things! The options are up to you!

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Tall Jewelry Armoire

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Kreg Jig
Router
Chisel
Hammer
Square
Sander

Lumber

1 – 1x4 at 8’
1 – 1x3 at 8’
1 –piece of ¾” plywood 14-3/4” x 28-1/2”

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
Rabbeting bit for the router to make a rabbet 3/8” wide x 1 /4” deep
2 – 12” x 12” mirror tiles
Hinges
Handle or latch for front
Glass adhesive or silicone caulk
Magnetic or clip catch for door
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x4 at 30”– Sides
2 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Top & Bottom
1 – 14-3/4” x 28-1/2” of ¾” plywood - Back
2 – 1x3 at 30” – Door Frame Sides
3 – 1x3 at 11-1/4” – Door Frame Top & Bottom

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the cabinet sides, top, and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end of the top and bottom. Secure the top and bottom to the sides as shown with 1-1/4” pocket screws and glue. Check for square.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure the back flush with the frame back using 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the door frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the top, center, and bottom frame pieces. Assemble as shown and check for square. Using a router and the rabbeting bit, cut a 3/8” wide x 1 /4” deep rabbet in the back of each opening of the door frame. Use a chisel and hammer to square the corners. Insert the mirrors into the openings to check for fit. Secure with mirror adhesive or silicone caulk. Add hinges, the door catch, and the handle or knob. Insert hooks, as desired.

To mount to a wall - Drill countersunk holes into the back and mount with 2" screws directly though at least one stud.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

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Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Ryland Entryway Storage

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

The perfect solution for your entryway with ample storage space and that rustic traditional styling, it's so completely perfect!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Table Saw
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

1 – sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
1 – sheet of ½” plywood
1/4 – sheet of ½” plywood
1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
1/4 sheet of ¾” plywood
14 -1x2 at 8’
5 - 1x3 at 8’
1 - 2x2 at 4’

Materials

1” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
1-1/2” screws
Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
Countersink bit for Drill
4 pair of hinges
4 Door Pulls
Edge banding for exposed edges of plywood, if desired
2 – 1” angle brackets
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 16” x 27-1/2” of ½” plywood – Lower Sides
2 – 16” x 40” of ½” plywood – Upper Sides
4 – 1x2 at 16” – Side Frames
2 – 1x3 at 19” – Side Frames
4 – 1x2 at 70-1/2” – Side Frames
15 – 1x2 at 18” – Solid Shelf Supports
6 – 1x2 at 18-3/4” – Slatted Shelf Supports
3 – 1x2 at 17-1/4” – Bottom Support
6 – 18” x 46-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Shelves, Top & Bottom
10 – 1x3 at 46-1/2” – Slats
1 – 46-1/2” x 73-1/4” of ¼” lauan or hardboard - Back
1 – 1x2 at 46-1/2” – Lower Trim Filler
2 – 1x2 at 19” – Lower Trim Sides
1 – 1x2 at 49-1/2” – Lower Trim Front
2 – 2x2 at 19” (mitered on table saw) – Upper Trim
1 – 1x2 at 51” – Upper Trim
4 – 1x2 at 11-3/4” – Upper Door Frame
4 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Upper Door Frame
2 – 8-3/4” x 18-1/2” of ½” plywood – Upper Door Panels
4 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Lower Door Frame
4 – 1x2 at 27-3/4” – Lower Door Frame
2 – 18-1/2” x 24-3/4” of ½” plywood – Lower Door Panels

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the 1x2 and 1x3 pieces for the side frames and the pieces for the panels from ½” plywood. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces as indicated for the frames. Assemble the frames with spacing as indicated using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the panels. Attach the panels to the frames with 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the shelf supports. For the side supports there will be twelve 1x2x18” and four 1x2x18-3/4”. Attach to side panels with spacing as indicated using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Note that the supports for the top, upper three shelves, and the bottom will be located ¾” back from the front edge and ¼” back from the back edge.

Step 3

If using edge banding on the exposed edges of the plywood shelves, it should be applied before assembly.

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the center shelf supports, the 1x3 pieces for the slatted shelves, and the ¾” plywood pieces for the top, bottom, and shelves. Attach the center supports to the solid shelves with countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Assemble the slatted shelves as shown in the drawing.

Attach the shelves to the cabinet sides with countersunk 1-1/2” screws through the top of the shelf through the side supports. It may be easier to start with the bottom shelf, add the top, and then check for square. Add the remaining shelves starting with the lowest slat shelf first and work up. (This method will avoid tight spaces for the drill!)

Step 4

Cut the piece for the back from 1/4” lauan or hardboard. Attach to top, bottom, shelves, and supports with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the trim filler and lower trim pieces. Attach the trim filler first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through bottom shelf and sides. Make sure the face of the filler piece is flush with the edge of the bottom and sides. Next, attach the sides trim pieces, fastening them in the same manner and finally add the front trim piece.

Step 6

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the door frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble frame with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Next , attach frame to front of cabinet with the top of the frame flush with the top of the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the frame into the supports, including the center. A few brad nails can also be placed through the frame into the top and lower solid shelf. The sides of the frame should be flush with the cabinet sides and for extra security, afew brad nails can be placed through the sides into the frame.

Step 7

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the lower door frames and the ½” plywood pieces for the panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown in the frame pieces. Assemble the frames with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the plywood panels as shown. Attach to the frame with glue and 1” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame.

Attach the hinges to the doors. The doors will overlap the frame opening by ¼” on all sides. Secure the hinges to the cabinet when you are satisfied with the placement.

Step 8

The upper doors are constructed in exactly the same manner as the lower doors. Follow the lower door directions for assembly and placement.

Step 9

Cut the pieces as indicated for the “crown” trim at the top. Using a table saw with the blade tilted at 45 degrees, cut the mitered angle along the length of the 2x2 pieces. Attach the angles 2x2 pieces to the mitered 1x2 piece with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the front. The assembly will them be attached to the cabinet 1/4"down from the top and secured with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 1” angle brackets will be used to attach the sides of the “crown” to the top of the cabinet.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

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Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Small Jewelry Armoire

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

A lady always needs a place to store her finest jewels… This wall-mount armoire uses standard mirror tiles found at any big-box store. It could also be used for keys, or pet leashes!

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Small Jewelry Armoire

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Kreg Jig
Router
Chisel
Hammer
Square
Sander

Lumber

1 – 1x4 at 6’
1 – 1x3 at 6’
1 – scrap piece of ¾” plywood at least 15” square

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
Rabbeting bit for the router to make a rabbet 3/8” wide x 1 /4” deep
1 – 12” x 12” mirror tile
Hinges
Handle or latch for front
Glass adhesive or silicone caulk
Magnetic or clip catch for door
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x4 at 16-1/4”– Sides
2 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Top & Bottom
1 – 14-3/4” x 14-3/4” of ¾” plywood - Back
2 – 1x3 at 16-1/4” – Door Frame Sides
2 – 1x3 at 11-1/4” – Door Frame Top & Bottom

Instructions

Step 1

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure the back flush with the frame back using 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the door frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the top and bottom frame pieces. Assemble as shown and check for square. Using a router and the rabbeting bit, cut a 3/8” wide x 1 /4” deep rabbet in the back of the door frame. Use a chisel and hammer to square the corners. Insert the mirror into the opening to check for fit. Secure with mirror adhesive or silicone caulk. Add hinges, the door catch, and the handle or knob. Add Cup hooks for hanging items such as jewelry, keys, pet leashes, etc.

To mount to a wall - Drill countersunk holes in the back and secure with 2" screws into at least one stud.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Paneled Armoire

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

This armoire is great with its clean lines and simplicity… The large pieces should make for a quick and easy build, too! It can be used as a pantry, an organized entertainment center, or for clothing storage. Extra shelves or a clothes hanging rod can be added, also!

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure

Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter (A table saw would be best!)

Drill

Square

Sander

Kreg Jig

Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

3 sheets ¾” plywood

1 sheet ¼” lauan or hardboard

1 – 2x2 at 8’

1 – 2x2 at 6’

Materials

1¼” pocket hole screws

2” screws

Small nails or 1” brads

Countersink bit for Drill

Hinges

Knobs or Pulls for Doors

Shelf Pins (Optional, if adding extra shelving)

Wood filler

Sandpaper

Wood glue

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 21” x 67” ¾” plywood – Sides

3 – 21” x 42½” ¾” plywood – Fixed Shelf**, Top, Bottom

1 – 21” x 25½” ¾” plywood – Lower Divider

2 – 21” x 21¼” ¾” plywood – Small Shelves

1 – 22” x 67” ¾” plywood – Door

1 – 21 7/8” x 67” ¾” plywood – Door

10 – 11” x 18” ¾” plywood – Door Panels

2 – 2x2x 41” – Leg Frame

3 – 2x2x19” – Leg Frame, Support

4 – 2x2x8” - Legs

** If you are going to add extra shelves, you will need to buy one ½ sheet of ¾” plywood. The shelves will be adjustable so they will be approximately ¼” shorter than the fixed shelves to allow for the shelf pins.

Instructions

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides, fixed shelf, top, and bottom. With the Keg jig set for ¾” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the shelf, top, and bottom. Assemble with spacing as indicated and make sure the cabinet is square.

If you are going to add adjustable shelves, the shelf pin holes would need to be drilled during this step. The holes will need to be drilled approximately 3" in from the front and the back on each side, and evenly spaced. The spacing will be determined by the amount of adjustment you want in these shelves. In other words, the holes could be spaced at 4" if you want the shelves to be spaced at 4" increments. It is a good idea to invest in a shelf pin jig (or make your own) that has all of the holes evenly spaced. You just line it up, drill, and go!

The lower picture shows how these shelves will look.

Remember that the adjustable shelves will be at least 1/4" shorter than the fixed shelf.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the leg frame. Set your Kreg jig for 1½” material before drilling the holes. Center the support piece and screw into place. Set your cabinet on top and allow ¾” from the front of the frame to the front of the cabinet (for the doors) and ¼” from the back of the frame to the back of the cabinet (for the back). It may be easier to attach the cabinet to the frame from the inside. Drill countersunk holes into the cabinet bottom over the frame and attach with 2” screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the vertical divider and the small shelves. Set your Kreg jig for 3/4" material and drill pocket holes in ends for assembly. It would be easier to attach the small shelves to the divider before attaching to the cabinet. Make sure the pocket holes in the divider face into the larger opening and not toward the small shelves to make it easier to drive the screws in.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the back from the ¼” lauan or hardboard. If you are using this armoire as an entertainment center, you may want to drill large holes for power cords before attaching to the back. Attach with small nails or a brad nailer.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the doors. Note that one door will be 1/8” narrower than the other door to allow for a gap in the center. This makes it easier to close the doors. If the pieces were cut exactly the same size, they may rub in the center and it creates a lot of extra work to try to sand the edges evenly to make it fit!
Cut the pieces for the panels. The easiest way to assemble this would be to completely sand all pieces and draw a grid on each door. The panel pieces will be spaced 2” from the top, bottom, sides, and in between the other panels EXCEPT for the narrower door… The panels will be spaced 2” from the top, bottom, and in between the other panels but will be 1 7/8” from the center. Glue the panel pieces in place and secure with brad nails.
Install the hinges on the door, then attach to the cabinet. The type of hinges to use is a matter of personal preference. Concealed hinges can be used but I find them hard to line up.

Add your knobs or handles.

Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

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Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Hudson Tall Dresser Part 2 The Assembly

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

We are back, and ready to start putting this beauty together!

Please click here to visit Part 1 of this dresser plan for constructing the components.

The assembly is really very simple and straight forward, each piece will fit nicely together like a piece of a puzzle! Please refer to this post for instructions on creating and building the components for this piece. Once you are finished head back here, and let's put the pieces together!

Free DIY Woodworking Plans to Build the Doors for the Hudson Smart Media and Gaming Console

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

This plan finishes the Hudson Smart Media and Gaming Console. We covered the plans for building the Unit here, and the Insert with drawer here, now the doors complete the project! Oh she is a beauty. Please remember you are able to request projects and pieces in the Community under the Project Requests and Suggestions Topic. You must be registered to do so, but that only requires and email address and a simple math equation. Not to mention, once you are registered, you can create your own Profile Page under the Mingle Tab and include your blog, web address, picture or logo etc! A great way to have another layer of interaction and branding!