Desks

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection Open Shelf Cabinet

05|10|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection Open Shelf Cabinet!

** The components can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. **

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Brad nailer
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

1 sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Edge banding for plywood
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 26-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 26-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 26-1/8” – Bottom
1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 26-1/8” – Back
2 – ¾”plywood at 19-1/4” x 26-1/8” - Shelves
1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 27-5/8” – Top
1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 27-5/8” – Trim

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Original Office Collection Two Drawer Cabinet

04|26|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Original Office Collection Two Drawer Cabinet! ** The components can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. **

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Brad nailer
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

1 sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Edge banding for plywood
2 sets of 18” drawer slides
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
2 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 16-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 20” – Bottom
1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 24” – Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 20-3/4” – Top
1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 17-5/8” - Trim
1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Bottom
2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 14-7/8” – Drawer Back
1 – ¾”plywood at 11-3/8” x 16-5/8” – Drawer Front

Instructions

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer opening by 3/8” on the sides, and ¼” at the top and bottom.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jacqueline Bedside Table

04|03|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jacqueline Bedside Table. Oh this little lady is gorgeous, isn't she? I love the delicate curves paired with her substantial form. A fabulous addition to any room! Xx...Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer

Lumber

2 – 2x2 at6’
2 – 1x2 at 6’
2 – 1x6 at 6’
2 – 3/8” thick craft boards at 2-1/2” wide x 3’
Half sheet of ¾” plywood
Half sheet of ½” plywood

Materials

1” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” pocket hole screws
3/4” screws
1-1/4” brad nails
1 – Set of 20” Drawer slides
1 – Drawer pull
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
2 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” – Side Stretchers
2 – 1x6 ay 19-1/2” – Sides
3 – 1x2 at 31-1/2” – Front & Back Stretchers
1 – 1x6 at 31-1/2” – Back
2 – 3/8” material at 2-1/2” x 19-1/2” – Slide Fillers
1 – ¾” plywood at 23” x 35-1/2” – Top
1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 29” – Drawer Bottom
2 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 19-1/4” – Drawer Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 30-1/2” – Drawer Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 31=1/4” – Drawer Front
2 – ½” plywood at 6-1/4” x 20” – Hutch Sides
1 – ½” plywood at 6-1/4” x 34-1/2” – Hutch Back
4 – ½” plywood at 2-1/2” x 8-1/2” – Hutch Dividers
1 – ½” plywood at 8-1/2” x 34-1/2” – Hutch Shelf
1 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 34-1/2” – Hutch Top

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs, stretchers, and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side and stretcher pieces. Center on the legs, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back and back stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end. Center on the legs, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide fillers. Attach to the sides as shown using countersunk ¾” screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, legs, back, and stretchers.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes on all four edges of the bottom, as well as each end of the drawer sides. Attach the sides to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the drawer back in the same manner. The drawer front will overlap the sides of the drawer box by 3/8” at each side. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the hutch sides. Cut an arc in each piece maintaining the dimensions as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the lower edge of each piece. Keep in mind there will be a right and a left piece.

Cut the piece for the hutch back and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the bottom edge. Attach using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the hutch dividers. Drill pocket holes in one edge only of each piece. Position two of the dividers and shown then secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Set the other two dividers aside.

Step 8

Cut the piece for the hutch shelf. Attach to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, as well as through the sides into the shelf.

Attach the other two dividers as shown using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 9

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, and through the sides and back into the shelf.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Ava Desk

03|01|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Ava Desk! I pretty sure this gal looks good regardless of her use. Desk, end table, console... she's just gorgeous and what a simple build she is!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

2 – 1x2 at 6’
1 – 2x2 at 4’
4 – 1x3 at 8’

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
1-1/2” screws
One 28” x 52” piece of Plexiglas
Clear rubber bumpers (to place the glass on the frame)
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x2 at 20” – Frame
2 – 1x2 at 42” – Frame
1 – 2x2 at 39” – Stretcher
4 – 1x3 at 37-5/8” – X
4 – 1x3 at 17-7/8” – X
4 – 1x3 at 18-1/8” - X

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Xs. Cut the angles as shown – they are NOT 45 deg angles! Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter pieces as shown. Assemble the Xs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws maintaining the dimensions as shown. Attach two X assemblies to each other (with the pocket holes facing in) using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the center of each X assembly using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the frame on the X assemblies with the pocket holes facing down and secure using glue and 1-1/2” countersunk screws.

Step 4

Position the rubber bumpers on the frame and set the Plexiglass on top.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Patchwork Secretary Desk

01|16|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Patchwork Secretary Desk! I absolutely love the patchwork pieces from West Elm, so this is heavily inspired by that...allegedly...

Stay tuned because later we will be back with a fun giveaway and a little resolution inspiration!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Scrap of 2x2 measuring approximately 18”
2 – 1x2 at 8’

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
3 sets of Ball bearing drawer slides(like these)
2 sets of roller drawer slides (like these)
2 sets of hinges
One set of drop-down front supports (like these)
Edge banding for plywood, optional
5 cabinet pulls
ne magnetic catch
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x2 at 4” – Legs
2 – 1x2 at 15” – Base Frame
2 – 1x2 at 44” – Base Frame
3 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Base Frame Supports
2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 47” – Top & Bottom
2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 45” – Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 45” x 45-1/2” – Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 45” – Center Divider
3 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 24-3/4” – Drawer Dividers
1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 24-3/4” – Shelf
2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 20” – Fixed Shelves
2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 19” – Slide-Out Shelves
3 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 22-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
6 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 16” – Drawer Sides
3 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 23-3/4” – Drawer Backs
2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 24-1/2” – Small Drawer Fronts
1 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/4” x 24-1/2” – Large Drawer Front
1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Desk Top
1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 44-3/4” - Door

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the legs. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure to the base frame using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the top into the frame.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the center divider. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes previously drilled in the sides, divider, and back.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the drawer dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the fixed shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the pull-out shelves. These shelves will use the roller drawer slides in order to make them moveable. The position is up to you… The upper pull-out shelf can be used for a printer so the height of the printer will have to measured before the shelf can be installed. Mark the position and install the slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer boxes by 3/8”. Install the ball-bearing slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts in the opening.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges on the larger door, then secure the hinges to the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening.

Install the hinges on the bottom of the door used as the desktop. Install the drop down supports according to the manufacturer’s instructions and make any necessary adjustments. Install the magnetic catch at the top of the opening to keep the door closed when not in use. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening.

Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Cabinet with a Single Glass Door

01|14|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Cabinet with a Single Glass Door. We have covered quite a few pieces in this collection so far! Somehow I let this baby slide by unpublished, eek!

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Router with 3/8” rabbeting bit
Brad nailer

Lumber

One sheet of ¾” plywood
One piece of trim at 3-1/2” wide by 16”

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
One set of hinges
One door pull
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 14-1/2” – Kick Plate
3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 18-3/4” – Shelves
1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 20-1/4” – Top
2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 25-3/8” – Door Frame
2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 10” – Door Frame
1 – 3-1/2” trim at 16” – Front Trim

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece.

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end then attach to the lower front edge using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge and secure to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the upper sides and back. The top will overlap by ¾”.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the door frame. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using the router and the rabbeting bit, rout the inside of the door frame (on the back) to allow for the glass.

Another option for attaching the glass would be to use glass clips to secure the glass to the back of the door frame (with no rabbet) but the shelves will need to be shortened to allow for the thickness of the glass and the clips.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the trim then attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Joss & Main Inspired Clymer Writing Desk

12|17|12

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Joss & Main Inspired Clymer Writing Desk! Seriously friends, this is one stylish little baby.. kinda adore it! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

7 – 1x2 at 8’
One sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
Edge banding for the top, optional
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

8 – 1x2 at 30-3/4” – Legs
4 – 1x2 at 12-15/16” – Upper Side Frame
4 – 1x2 at 19” – Middle Side Frames
4 – 1x2 at 24-1/8” – Lower Side Frames
8 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Stretchers
2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 19” – Upper Shelves
2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 24-1/8” – Lower Shelves
4 – 1x2 at 26” – Top Supports
1 – ¾” plywood at 30” x 64” – Top

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles as shown using a miter saw or a jig saw.

Cut the pieces for the frames. Cut the angles in the upper frame pieces as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the middle and lower frame pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top of the stretchers should be flush with the top of the frame pieces.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in all four edges, then attach to the stretchers and frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top of the shelf should be flush with the top of the stretchers and frame pieces.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the top and the top supports. If using edge banding, apply it to the top piece before assembly. Drill pocket holes along one long edge of each of the supports and attach to the top as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Place the top on the leg assemblies and secure using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Bookcase

12|13|12

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Bookcase

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad nailer

Lumber

One sheet of ¾” plywood
One piece of trim at 3-1/2” wide by 16”

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 14-1/2” – Kick Plate
3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 18-3/4” – Shelves
1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 20-1/4” – Top
1 – 3-1/2” trim at 16” – Front Trim

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece.

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end then attach to the lower front edge using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge and secure to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the upper sides and back. The top will overlap by ¾”.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the trim then attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Emerson Secretary Chest

12|10|12

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Emerson Secretary Chest. This piece is so fantastic that I think I need one right this second!

Ps...I hope you will join us for the remaining giveaways we have going on, and stay tuned for the winner announcement for the Home Depot Gift cards from PureBond!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer

Lumber

3 sheets of ¾” plywood
5 – 1x2 at 8’
1 – 1x4 at 6’
4 – 1x6 at 8’
1 – 2x2 at 4’
2 – Baseboard or Casing Trim at 8’

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Edge banding for plywood, optional
One set of hinges
One set of drop front supports (like these for writing surface)
Two magnetic catches
6 sets of 10” drawer slides
Drawer pulls or handles for the drawers and writing surface
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 53-1/4” – Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 58-1/2” – Bottom
2 – ¾” plywood at 24-3/8” x 58-1/2” – Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 58-1/2” – Center Shelf
1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 12-1/4” – Bottom Support
2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 23-1/4” – Dividers
2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 18” – Side Shelves
2 – 1x2 at 53-1/4” – Front Frame
1 – 1x4 at 57” – Front Frame
1 – 1x2 at 57” – Front Frame
1 – 1x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 57” – Front Frame
2 – 1x2 at 19-3/4” – Front Frame
1 – 1x2 at 24” – Front Frame
2 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Front Frame
4 – 1x2 at 27-3/4” – Front Frame
6 – 1x2 at 11-1/2” – Drawer Slide Supports
3 – 2x2 at 11-1/2” – Drawer Slide Supports
1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 61-1/2” – Top
4 – trim at 13” – Side Trim
2 – trim at 61-1/2” – Front Trim
1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 20-3/4” – Writing Surface
6 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 25-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
12 – 1x6 at 9-1/2” – Drawer Sides
12 – 1x6 at 26-3/4” – Drawer Front & Back
6 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 27-1/2” – Drawer Fronts

Instructions

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece as well as the top edge of the side pieces. Attach the bottom to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes around all four edges of each piece as shown. Secure the pieces to each other using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the back to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the center shelf. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as one of the long edges for the back. Attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holes.

Cut the piece for the bottom support. Drill pocket holes in one long edge. Secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge for the back. Attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holes.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge for the back. Attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holes.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the sides. Start with the longest horizontal pieces as shown in the first drawing and attach them to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the pieces shown in the second drawing as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the pieces as shown in the third drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the entire frame assembly to the front of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The tops of the frame pieces at the side shelves and the center shelves should be flush with the tops of the shelves.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x2 pieces only. Attach to the center of the drawer area on the frame (as well as to the back) using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the 1x2 drawer slide supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

The bottom edge of the supports should be even with the top edge of the frame pieces (see the drawing).

Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. The sides and front will overlap by ¾”. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the underside.

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower trim. Attach the side pieces first, then attach the front pieces using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 9

Cut the piece for the writing surface. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides. Attach the hinges to the bottom of the surface to the cabinet according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Attach the drop-front supports to the sides of the opening and the writing surface according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Attach the magnetic catches to the inside of the top of the writing surface.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Attach the bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the front and back of the drawer boxes. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, <a href="http://designsbystudioc.com/how-to-install-drawer-slides/">click here</a>. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides. For another easy tutorial, click here. Install the drawer hardware.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Emerson Secretary Chest

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Cabinet with Two Glass Doors

12|07|12

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Cabinet with Two Glass Doors! This would be fabulous on it's own or as a base to a desk or shelves!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Router with 3/8” rabbeting bit
Brad nailer

Lumber

One sheet of ¾” plywood
One half sheet of ¾” plywood
One piece of trim at 3-1/2” wide by 16”

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
2 - sets of hinges
2 door pulls
Glass or Plexiglas for doors
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 29-1/4” x 29-1/2” – Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 28-1/2” – Kick Plate
3 – ¾” plywood at 18-3/4” x 29-1/2” – Shelves
1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” x 31” – Top
4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 25-1/8” – Door Frame
4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 10-7/16” – Door Frame
1 – 3-1/2” trim at 31” – Front Trim

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece.

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end then attach to the lower front edge using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge and secure to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the upper sides and back. The top will overlap by ¾”.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the door frames. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using the router and the rabbeting bit, rout the inside of the door frames (on the back) to allow for the glass.