Browse all Free Woodworking Plans for Desks

Jul
19
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Project Details

By special reader request, these fabulous Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Dawson Large Desk and perfect for those of you who need a wide solid work surface! I can see this in so many different and gorgeous finishes and with the flip of a drawer pull, this beauty will transform from rustic to vintage and even to modern! Can't wait to see what you do! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 3 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 4x4 posts at 6’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 4x4 posts at 30-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 19-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 19-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” –Upper Side Drawer Spacers
  • 2 – 1x3 at 19-1/2” – Lower Side Drawer Spacers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 61” – Back
  • 1 – 2x4 at 61” – Lower Stretcher
  • 2 – 2x4 at 15” – Lower Drawer Frame Side
  • 2 – 2x4 at 17” – Lower Drawer Frame Bottom
  • 2 – 2x4 at 3-1/2” – Upper Drawer Dividers
  • 1 – 1x4 at 61” – Upper Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x3 at 22-1/4” – Inner Drawer Spacers
  • 2 – 2x2 at 22-1/4” – Inner Panel Frame
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 22-1/4” – Inner Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 26-1/2” x 68” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 16” – Large Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1x3 at 22-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1x3 at 16” – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x3 at 22-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 23” – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 16-3/4” – Large Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 16-3/4” – Smaller Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 23-3/4” – Center Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes on the top frame piece so they face up, and the pocket holes on the lower frame piece will face down. This way, they will be hidden and won’t have to be filled.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the panels to the legs and the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the panels will be located 1” back from the outside face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower drawer spacers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the spacers (the side with the pocket holes) will be flush with the inside of the legs.

Desk Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Desk Side Drawer Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 2

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each shorter edge. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Desk Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 3

Cut the 2x4 piece for the lower stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the lower drawer frames. Drill pocket holes in the upper end only of the 15” pieces, and both ends of the 17” pieces.  Assemble the pieces in an “L” shape (as shown) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Secure the assemblies to the legs and the lower stretcher using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Lower Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Lower Drawer Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in one end only. Secure to the top of the lower stretcher using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the 1x4 piece for the upper stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the upper stretcher into the top of the drawer dividers to further secure them in place.

Upper Drawer Dividers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Upper Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 5

 Cut the 1x4 pieces for the inner drawer spacers and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the vertical lower frame pieces and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The spacer pieces should be flush with the inside face of the vertical pieces to allow for the inner sides to be positioned.

Cut the pieces for the inner panels and 2x2 frame piece. Drill pocket holes in the top and side edges of the panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end only of the 2x2 inner frame piece.

Secure the panel to the frame piece using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panel (without pocket holes) will be flush with the outside face of the 2x2. There will be a left and a right – the pocket holes in the 2x2 pieces will face opposite directions to secure to the vertical lower drawer frame piece.

Secure the inner panel assembly to the back and the vertical lower drawer frame piece. Use glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the inner panel, and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the 2x2 frame piece. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the back end of the 2x2 frame piece. 

Inner Drawer Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Inner Panels with Pocket Holes from Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Installing Inner Panels using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the desk frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top. 

Fastening the Top in Place with a Nail Gun for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Center Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Center Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Large Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Large Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Small Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Small Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Dec
09
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Large Hutch. There are only a few pieces left before we finish out the Original Office Collection, and you guys will be able to customize till you drop! I can't wait to see how you mix and match to arrange your own pieces! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 full sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood edges, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Feet
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 43-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 73-1/2” - Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 40-3/4” x 73-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 73-1/2” – Long Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 28-3/4” - Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 36-3/8” – Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 36-3/8” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 77” – Top
  • 2 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Side Trim
  • 1 – 1x2 at 76-1/2” – Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

 Cut the pieces for the sides and feet. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each side. Attach the feet to the bottom using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The side pieces will be positioned at the center of each foot.

Step 1
Step 2

 

 Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the piece for the long shelf and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 4
Step 5

 

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

 Cut the piece for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretcher will be flush with the outside edge of the sides.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

 

 Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overlap by 1”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the sides and back.

Step 7
Step 8

 

Cut the pieces for the trim. Rout a decorative edge along one long edge of each piece if desired. Position the sides first and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front in the same manner. A mitered corner will be used if routing a decorative edge. Adjust the length of the sides accordingly. Store-bought trim can also be used.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
06
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Reclaimed Timber Slat Desk. I absolutely love our Reclaimed Timber Collection and I can't wait to see who builds this first! Do you remember this reader showcase? Oh it's just so very good! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 19 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 27 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 1 half sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • ¼” glass or Plexiglas for the top
Materials
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • ½” diameter All-Thread  approximately 2’ long plus two nuts
  • Magnetic catch for the door
  • Paste Wax
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x6 (ripped to 3-3/4” wide) at 63” – Top End Slats
  • 19 – 1x4 at 63” – Top Slats
  • 115 – 1x4 at 3-1/2” – Blocks (shown in Dark Blue in the drawings)
  • 14 - 1x4 at 30” (with a ½” hole drilled at one end)  - Side Slats (shown in Lt. Blue in the drawings)
  • 40 – 1x4 at 30” – Slats (Shown in Lt. Blue in the drawings)
  • 15 – 1x4 at 23-7/8” (with a ½” hole drilled at one end) – Door Slats (shown in Lavender in the drawings)
  • 14 – 1x4 at 1-3/4” – Door Blocks (shown in Orange in the drawings)
  • 14 – 1x4 at 27-1/2” – Back Slats (shown in Green in the drawings)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 27-1/2” x 30” – Shelf & Bottom
  • 1 – ½” All-Thread at 22-1/4”
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 27-3/8” x 35-1/2” - Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Pieces should be sanded and finished prior to assembly. Apply a coat of paste wax to the boards with the hole drilled in the end to allow for the door to slide easily. The desk will be assembled from the top down. Each piece will be secured with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails except the areas with the holes.

 

Cut the pieces for the top. The wider 1x4 pieces will be positioned at the ends to hold the glass top in place. Start by layering the blocks on the wider pieces with the bottoms flush. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Lay a 1x4 piece on top, then secure to the blocks using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Continue layering the pieces in this manner until the top is complete.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the slats. Fourteen of the 30” slats will have a hole drilled in one end to allow for the All-Thread for the door. One of these pieces will have a countersunk hole drilled to capture the nut for the All-Thread. Place the nut in the countersunk hole, then secure the piece to the underside of the top using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Insert the All-Thread and secure in the nut. Position a 30” slat (without a hole) as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the back slats, the door slats, and the door blocks. The door slats will have a ½” hole drilled at the end. Secure the door blocks to the ends of the door slats using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The back slats will be secured using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, and the door slats will be threaded on the All-Thread piece.

Step 3
Step 4

 Continue layering the pieces as shown – there will be eight back slats (green), eight door slats with blocks (lavender), eight 30” slats on each side (light blue), and eight blocks (dark blue). Cut the piece for the shelf and drill the hole for the All-Thread. Thread the shelf on the All-Thread then secure the shelf in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

 Continue layering the slats – There will be seven back slats (green), seven door slats with blocks (lavender), six 30” slats on each side (light blue), and seven blocks (dark blue).

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill a countersunk hole for the All-Thread. Thread the bottom on the All-Thread, then insert the nut and make it snug (not tight). Secure the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 7

Layer the final 30” slats and blocks on the bottom, as well as what will be the far left side of the desk securing the pieces with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the back. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Install a magnetic catch on the door.

Step 8
Step 9

Secure the glass on the top with beads of silicone at the edges.

Step 9
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Nov
25
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Campaign Desk. You know I'm not one to shy away from a gorgeous Campaign inspired furniture plan and sure enough this is a fabulous companion piece to a few of our other pieces in the Campaign Collection. An easy build with modern clean lines, and just that extra bit of interest in the details... Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 7 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 8 sets of 22” drawer slides
  • 9 drawer pulls
  • 10 angle brackets (3/4” wide)
  • 4 – 3 way mending plates
  • 2 – 4 way mending plates
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 1x3 at 14” – Base
  • 4 – 1x3 at 21-1/2” – Base
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 24” – Bottom
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 26-1/4” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 26-1/4” – Side Back
  • 6 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 24” – Center Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 24” – Center Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 54” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 21-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x6 at 23” – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 18 – 1x6 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 8 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 20-1/2” – Side Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 16 – 1x6 at 12-1/2” – Side Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 23-3/4” – Center Drawer Front
  • 8 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 13-1/4” – Side Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the base. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces. Assemble the bases using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the bottoms. Position the pieces so they overhang the bases by ½” on all sides. Secure to the bases using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in one of the shorter edges of each piece. Secure to the bottoms using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the side backs. Drill pocket holes along each longer edge, as well as one shorter edge. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the pieces as shown (orienting the pocket holes so they face down and won’t have to be filled) then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the center shelf and drill pocket holes along the side edges. Position on each side assembly as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the side assemblies and the shelf using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. . For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

Step 9
Step 10

If using the brackets, spray paint them as desired. Secure to the cabinet with ½” screws.

Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
30
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection One Shelf Cabinet. Another notch on our totem pole for the Original Office Collection! All of the the components in this collection can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Brad nailer
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber

 

  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials

 

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

 

  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 16-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 20” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 24” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 19-1/4” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 20-3/4” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 17-5/8” - Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

 Cut the pieces for the sides and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws

Step 1
Step 2

 

 Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

 

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the shelf and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

 

 Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
09
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Carr Desk! I just love a good desk wtih substantial lines, don't you? Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 8 – ¼” x ½” x 3’ craft boards
  • 1 quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • ½” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 4 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 6 drawer pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 29-1/4” – Sides & Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 29-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 30” – Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 15-3/4” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 30” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 30” – Large Shelf
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 18-1/4” – Small Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 49-1/2” – Top
  • 4 – 1x3 at 19” – Lower Trim
  • 1 – 1x3 at 2-1/4” – Lower Trim
  • 1 – 1x3 at 18-3/4” – Lower Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 27-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 29” – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 14-1/2” – Side Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Side Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1x3 at 14-3/4” – Side Drawer Box Fronts & Backs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 14-1/2” – Large Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 14-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 14-3/4” – Large Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 4-1/2” x 29-3/4” – Center Drawer Front
  • 5 – ½” plywood at 4-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Side Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ½ (ripped to 5/8” wide) at 15-1/2” long – Large Drawer Front Spacers
  • 12 – ¼” x ½” craft board strips at 4-1/2” – Drawer Front Trim
  • 2 – ¼” x ½”– craft board strips at 28-3/4” – Center Drawer Front Trim
  • 10 – ¼” x ½” craft board strips at 14-1/2” – Side Drawer Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and divider, and the backs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back pieces as shown. Secure to the sides and divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Position the pieces as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the center shelf and the side shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side and back edges of each piece. Position the shelves as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Position as shown with the sides and front overlapping by ¾”, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the lower trim. Secure the sides first, using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then secure the front pieces.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the side pieces. Attach the side pieces to the bottoms using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the front and back pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides and divider to allow for the drawer fronts. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts as well as the spacers for the large drawer front. For the large drawer front only, set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Position the spacers between the drawer fronts and secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. The back face of these drawer fronts will be flush with the back face of the spacer – the front of the spacer will stick out ¼” to allow for the trim.

Cut the pieces for the trim. Secure the side pieces first using glue and ½” brad nails, then secure the top and bottom pieces.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Shim the drawer fronts in the openings – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides in the opening. Secure the drawer fronts to the drawer boxes using 1” brad nails. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Install the drawer pulls.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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