Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Cube. Perfect with the other pieces in the Modular Family collection!!!
$25-$50
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
If using edge banding, it will need to be applied before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edges of the sides, as well as the longer edges of the bottom. Position as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides and back into the underside of the top.
Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the door. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening. Install the hinges on the door, then attach to the cabinet. Install the cabinet pull or handle.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Bridge. Yay, moving right along through this collection! We already covered the bench and lockers for this modular family, and today the bridge!
Of course the whole collection can be configured any way you like...
Cut the pieces for the box. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges of the sides. Assemble as shown and attach the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure to the sides, top, and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the divider box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter dividers. Position as shown and secure to the top and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Insert the divider box into the bridge box and secure using 1-1/4” brad nails.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Lockers
***Single locker requires 2 sheets of plywood. If building two lockers, a total of three sheets will be required (there will be enough of the second sheet left over to create parts for the second locker).***
You can see above how these pieces will work together once you build a few! Any configuration you want will be fabulous!!!
$75-100
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site. Always make sure you buy easy to assemble furniture
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket hole in each end. The shelves will be positioned ¾” back from the front edge. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
We covered the bench plans here, and now the Locker Component that goes with... Oh I just love mix and match! Xx Rayan
$50-$75
Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the back. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top and shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position the bottom ¾” up from the bottom edge of the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Each piece will be set back ¾” from the front edge.
Cut the pieces for the aprons. Attach to the top and bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the door. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1x2 pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood pieces. Attach the shorter pieces to the plywood first using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the longer frame pieces. Install the hinges and make any necessary adjustments.
I'm really excited to post this project because I was excited to find it browsing through my latest PotteryBarn catalog! Absolutely a stunner, to be sure!
Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom supports using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the side panels as shown. Insert into the frames and secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Cut a 1/8” kerf (check manufacturer’s instructions on the door hardware to be sure) across the length approximately ¾” from the front edge. Secure the bottom to the side panels as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the shelf into the supports.
Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in one shorter end only and secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the side shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws locating them ¾” back from the front edge.
Cut the pieces for the side shelves. Secure to the supports using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the shelves into the supports.
Cut the pieces for the center shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws locating them ¾” back from the front edge.
Cut the piece for the lower divider. Drill pocket holes in one long edge only and secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the divider ¾” back from the front edge.
Cut the piece for the lower shelf. Secure to the supports using 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the shelf into the supports as well as into the divider.
Attach the next divider and shelf in the same manner as Step 6. Also attach the upper shelf to the shelf supports.
Cut the piece for the upper divider and attach in the same manner as the other dividers.
Cut the piece for the top. Cut a 1/8” kerf (check manufacturer’s instructions on the door hardware to be sure) across the length approximately 1-1/4” from the front edge. The top willoverlap by 1-1/4" in the front and 3/4" on the sides. Attach with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails through the top into the dividers and sides.
Cut the pieces for the doors. Assemble in the same manner as the side frames. Attach the door sliding hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut the pieces for the casing and baseboard trim. Attach the sides first, then the front. Place the upper trim as close to the front edge as possible to allow for the doors to slide.
We are back with part 2 of this project for the drawers and corkboard bin, after we covered part 1 yesterday (found here). This DIY Furniture plan is sure to solve quite a bit of your storage issues, so get building!
(Dimensions for cutting plywood scraps are in parentheses)
Corkboard Frame:
Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1x2 and the 1x6 pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Using the router and the rabbeting bit, cut a ¼” deep rabbet on the back side of the frame at the opening for the cork. Cut the cork to fit and glue in the opening.
Cut the pieces for the bin sides and bottom. Attach the sides to the sides of the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach to the frame from the back side with 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the bin sides and bottom.
Cut the piece for the front of the bin. Attach to the sides and front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the corkboard to the door with countersunk 1-1/4” screws making sure to avoid the mirror.
For the Drawers:
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Assemble as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The drawer fronts will be ¼” longer than the sides and back to accommodate the bottom.
Cut the dowel pieces for the bottom support. Attach to the inside of the drawer front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The bottom of the dowel will be flush with the bottom of the sides.
Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach to the sides and bottom support using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill holes in the front for the knob or handle.
This plan has drawers and cork board bin , plus vanity portion is coming soon…
Cut the pieces for the feet. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws. Remember to assemble two facing one way and two facing the other way (see drawing).
Cut the pieces for the base sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws as shown.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Attach to the base with 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the bottom into the base.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the bottom/base assembly with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the 14-3/4” ends and attach to cabinet with glue and pocket hole screws at the spacing indicated. The shelves will be set 1-1/2" back from the front edge of the cabinet.
Cut the piece for the upper support and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the cabinet with the outside face flush with the front edges of the cabinet.
Cut the piece for the back. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the door. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces making sure to allow room for the rabbet. Using the router, cut a rabbet in the frame for the mirror. Chisel the corners square in the rabbet. Attach the hinges to the door, then attach the hinges to the cabinet. (There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door)
Whether you live in a place where having guns is a requirement or you have guns for sport, you very likely need a good place to store them and lock them up away from little hands. Another project from our request page, this seems like a fabulous piece of DIY furniture for anything you might want to lock away and keep kiddos out of!
$100-$150
** If using edge banding to cover the exposed edges of the plywood, apply it to each piece before assembly
**Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each edge. Attach to the frames with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panels are flush with the back of the frames.
Rout a rabbet in the right hand frame side for the gang lock according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. This will need to be done before any further assembly.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each side edge. Attach to the side frames with the back face flush with the edge of the side panels.
Cut the pieces for the front supports and drill pocket holes in each end. The upper board will need a ¾” hole bored for the gang lock placement. (See the manufacturer’s installation instructions) Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws with the front face flush with the front facing edge of the side panels.
Cut the pieces for the top supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the cabinet as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Also install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Cut the piece for the top and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the side frames and top supports. The top will overlap the front and sides by ¾” and will be flush with the back face of the side frames.
Cut the pieces for the lower trim. Attach the side pieces first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front piece.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the remaining drawer hardware and make any adjustments necessary.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. They will overlap the openings by ½” on all sides. Drill the holes for the handles and drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place on the drawer box. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes through the drawer boxes for the handles.
The gun holder brackets will have to be installed in the drawer boxes according to personal preference!
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The perfect solution for your entryway with ample storage space and that rustic traditional styling, it's so completely perfect!
Cut the 1x2 and 1x3 pieces for the side frames and the pieces for the panels from ½” plywood. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces as indicated for the frames. Assemble the frames with spacing as indicated using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the panels. Attach the panels to the frames with 1” pocket hole screws.
Cut the 1x2 pieces for the shelf supports. For the side supports there will be twelve 1x2x18” and four 1x2x18-3/4”. Attach to side panels with spacing as indicated using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Note that the supports for the top, upper three shelves, and the bottom will be located ¾” back from the front edge and ¼” back from the back edge.
If using edge banding on the exposed edges of the plywood shelves, it should be applied before assembly.
Cut the 1x2 pieces for the center shelf supports, the 1x3 pieces for the slatted shelves, and the ¾” plywood pieces for the top, bottom, and shelves. Attach the center supports to the solid shelves with countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Assemble the slatted shelves as shown in the drawing.
Attach the shelves to the cabinet sides with countersunk 1-1/2” screws through the top of the shelf through the side supports. It may be easier to start with the bottom shelf, add the top, and then check for square. Add the remaining shelves starting with the lowest slat shelf first and work up. (This method will avoid tight spaces for the drill!)
Cut the piece for the back from 1/4” lauan or hardboard. Attach to top, bottom, shelves, and supports with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the 1x2 pieces for the trim filler and lower trim pieces. Attach the trim filler first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through bottom shelf and sides. Make sure the face of the filler piece is flush with the edge of the bottom and sides. Next, attach the sides trim pieces, fastening them in the same manner and finally add the front trim piece.
Cut the 1x2 pieces for the door frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble frame with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Next , attach frame to front of cabinet with the top of the frame flush with the top of the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the frame into the supports, including the center. A few brad nails can also be placed through the frame into the top and lower solid shelf. The sides of the frame should be flush with the cabinet sides and for extra security, afew brad nails can be placed through the sides into the frame.
Cut the 1x2 pieces for the lower door frames and the ½” plywood pieces for the panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown in the frame pieces. Assemble the frames with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the plywood panels as shown. Attach to the frame with glue and 1” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame.
Attach the hinges to the doors. The doors will overlap the frame opening by ¼” on all sides. Secure the hinges to the cabinet when you are satisfied with the placement.
The upper doors are constructed in exactly the same manner as the lower doors. Follow the lower door directions for assembly and placement.
Cut the pieces as indicated for the “crown” trim at the top. Using a table saw with the blade tilted at 45 degrees, cut the mitered angle along the length of the 2x2 pieces. Attach the angles 2x2 pieces to the mitered 1x2 piece with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the front. The assembly will them be attached to the cabinet 1/4"down from the top and secured with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 1” angle brackets will be used to attach the sides of the “crown” to the top of the cabinet.
If you enjoyed this post please PIN IT and STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!
A very simple build, with big impact style and design! This piece is awesome for entryway home organization! Everything would have its own place, and of course the numbers on the doors could be replaced with letters or names, even pets names... So fun!
Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. Measure from the top and mark the holes for the shelf pins (for the adjustable shelves). Do not drill the holes completely through the board! Also, drill holes in the top of the side pieces for attaching the top.
Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom piece. Attach the bottom to the sides 1-1/2” up from each end with 1-1/4” pocket screws.
Cut the top and attach to the sides with the back being flush and the front overlapping by ½”. Check for square.
Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Also, measuring from the top and using the same spacing as the sides, mark the holes for the shelf pins. These holes can be drilled all the way through the board so that the spacing is the same on both sides. Center it in the cabinet as indicated and secure with pocket screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Using a drill with a countersink bit, drill holes directly through the face of the supports and attach to the sides at 11” from the bottom with 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the pieces for the fixed shelves as indicated. Using a drill with a countersink bit, drill holes through the top of the shelves into the supports as indicated. Secure with 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the ¼” lauan or hardboard for the back. If you are using scrap pieces, make sure the seams will fall behind the shelves or divider. Secure with glue and brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the lower filler, the lower trim and the upper trim. Attach the lower filler with glue and brad nails to the front underside of the bottom, between the sides. Attach the trim piece to the front of this piece overlapping the sides with glue and brad nails. Attach the upper trim between the sides and the divider.
Cut the pieces as indicated for the doors. The doors will have a 1/8” gap around all sides. Attach the hinges to the door and shim in place in the opening. Secure the hinges to the locker. Attach the handles to the doors.
Cut any additional shelves, as desired. Add coat hooks, also.
The numbers can be stenciled on and distressed for a vintage look. Painted wood or MDF cutouts would work well also. If building more than one locker cabinet, the lockers can be attached together with screws.
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.
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a.jpg "Project Image")
 b.jpg "Project Image")
