Jul
23
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa
Project Details

By special reader request, and a perfect addition to the Reef Collection of pieces, today we have Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa! This can use the same cushions as our modified reef chair plans call for, only they will need to be turned sideways for this piece! Since they are virtually square, this won't matter at all. The cushion options here that will work best are the Threshold Outdoor Deep Seating Cushion which retails for $29 and one or two 18" toss pillows for the back.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 6'
  • 1 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x4 at 27 1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 28 1/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 12 1/2" – Front Legs
  • 1 – 2x4 at 24” – Top
  • 1 – 2x4 at 17" – Front Apron
  • 1 – 2x4 at 21” – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 21” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Center Seat Support
  • 3 – 1x4 at 20 1/2” – Seat Slats
  • 3 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 28 1/4” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The Front Leg will sit perpendicular to the Side Frame piece (28 1/4" piece) and flush with the outside of this piece as well so they will form a 90 degree angle. 

Sides with Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa
Step 2

Cut the piece for the top and the Front Apron. Drill pocket holes in both ends of the Front Apron using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and assemble with glue and 2 1/2” pocket hole screws. Place the Top on the legs and secure with glue and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws using the pocket holes you created in the previous step. 

Top and Front Apron for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be a 2x4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side frame piece to allow for the seat slats and flush with the bottom of the other seat support and the side frame pieces. Attach the pieces to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Seat Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the back seat support using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center seat support with 1-1/4” brad nails.

Seat Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Chair Back Slat for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa
Back Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jun
25
2014
Real Reader Build on The Design Confidential from Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build The Reef Sofa Chair and Coffee Table

Spotted on our Instagram Hashtag #builtTDCtuff, this collection of DIY outdoor furniture pieces built by furgason5 is absolutely spectacular. They built two Reef Sofas, a Reef Club Chair and a modified Reef Coffee Table to complete this gorgeous outdoor living space. What a view they have from their new fabulous space! I am more than a little jealous, aren't you? Xx... Rayan

Psst... Don't forget you can showcase your build right on the site by posting a showcase if you are a registered member. If you prefer to share on social media, be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram and use the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and you might see your work featured here and on our Instachannel

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Reader Showcase of Reef Sofa Chair and Coffee Table
Jun
20
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Project Details

We are slowly (very slowly) making our way through the outdoor pieces with cushions to accomodate less expensive cushion options, and today's plan is our next victim! We covered the matching Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Chair with Modifications for Cushions from Target and now we do exactly the same for the sofa! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 6 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 27 1/4"  – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 33 3/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 36 3/4” – Top
  • 1 – 2x4 at 73” – Top
  • 2 – 2x4 at 66” – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 66” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 9” – Center Leg
  • 9 – 1x4 at 24” – Seat Slats
  • 8 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Side Slats
  • 9 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 33 3/4” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top. Cut 45 deg. angles in each end of the long piece as well as one end of the short pieces (there will be a left and right). Drill pocket holes in the mitered ends and assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Place on the side assemblies and attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the top of the legs into the top piece.

Sofa Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be a 2x4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side stretcher piece to allow for the seat slats. Attach the leg piece at the center using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach all pieces at the spacing indicated (with the front piece flush with the front of the side frame) to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Seat Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center of the support with 1-1/4” brad nails.

Sofa Seat Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Side Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Back Slat for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Sofa Back Slat for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jun
06
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Project Details

I actually wanted to add a 'woot woot' to the title, but I figured I would restrain myself and show a bit of composure here, you know... like a lady and all. Right. So we are beginning to roll out our mods to some of the popular pieces that many of you have requested we adjust. These mods will accomodate some much less expensive, standard sized and much more readily available cushion options.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Tools
Lumber
  • 4 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 27 1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 33 3/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 36 3/4” – Top
  • 1 – 2x4 at 29” – Top
  • 2 – 2x4 at 22” – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 22” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Seat Support
  • 3 – 1x4 at 24” – Seat Slats
  • 8 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 33 3/4” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Chair Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top. Cut 45 deg. angles in each end of the long piece as well as one end of the short pieces (there will be a left and right). Drill pocket holes in the mitered ends and assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Place on the side assemblies and attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the top of the legs into the top piece.

Chair Seat Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be a 2x4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side stretcher piece to allow for the seat slats. Attach all pieces at the spacing indicated (with the front piece flush with the front of the side frame) to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Chair Seat Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center of the support with 1-1/4” brad nails.

Chair Seat Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Chair Side Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Chair Back Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Chair Back and Pocket Hole Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

May
01
2014
Project Details

This fabulous ottoman pairs perfectly with the Sawyer Adirondak Outdoor Chair! What an amazing duo of DIY furniture these two projects are! The most difficult portion of this plan is the freehand cutting, and even that should actually be a bit of a fun challenge, nothing to difficult that you can’t tackle! All of the marking and and measuring should be quite fun! Did I mention this plan is inexpensive to build?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’ ** you can purchase a fence board like this for savings, or use your plywood and cut it into strips.
  • 1 – 1x6 at 6’ **you can purchase a fence board like this for big savings or use your plywood and cut it into strips. You will need to rip this down into 4 1/2” strip for the Slats.
  • 1 –  4'x4' sheet of 3/4" plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4" plywood at 15" x 19"
  • 2 – 1x4 at 22 1/2” Aprons
  • 3 – 1x6 (ripped down into 4 1/2” width strips) at 22 1/2”
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut Out your Legs: The first diagram shows you the lengths of each side you will cut and the actual dimensions of your leg unit. You will need two identical units like this that will mirror each other so you may want to flip your sheet to mark out the other panel. The image below shows you where these cuts sits relative to the edges of your plywood. 

Step 2

Cut Out your Legs: This is your guide for locating your leg panel. It helps you place your panel properly so you can get the correct angles without working overtime with fancy cuts and tools. Use a jigsaw or circular saw to cut this shape out of your plywood sheet. You will need two of these that mirror each other, so consider flipping your sheet over to place your second panel. 

Step 3

Attach the Ottoman Aprons: Using your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue you will fasten the pieces together as shown below. The Aprons will be placed 1 1/4” from the top of the Front Edge and the Top of the Back edge.

Step 4

Rip your Slats down to Size: Beginning with a 1x6, you will rip your boards into a 4 1/2” width (shaving off 1” from the actual width of a 1x6) and then tack them down 1/2” from the Top Edge of the Top Leg, and space them 1” Apart. Use Galvanized Nails or Screws to Fasten in Place.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Mar
19
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, the very fabulous Morris Chair! To construct your own cushions using foam, the measurements would be 20" x 24" x 2" for the back cushion and 20" x 24" x 4" for the seat cusion. All I have is spring and the outdoors on my mind, so I envision this might make a nice outdoor chair as well as a classic indoor chair. The original designer just may be rolling over in his grave at the moment, now that I mentioned that, but I believe in using things to their fullest so to heck with it all, ha! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – ¾” dowel rods at 3’
  • 4 – caps to fit on the end of the dowels
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 2 – 3x3 posts at 3’ (or make your own by laminating 2 – 2x4s together then squaring and ripping to size on the table saw)
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x6 at 25-5/16” – Back Legs
  • 2 – 3x3 posts at 27-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1x4 (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) at 20” – Upper Side Frame
  • 2 – 1x6 at 20” – Lower Side Frame
  • 6 – 1x2 at 7” – Side Frame Spindles
  • 1 – 1x6 at 24” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 24” – Seat Frame Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 22-1/2” – Seat Frame Front
  • 2 – 1x2 at 20-3/16” - Seat Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1x2 at 19-5/16” – Seat Frame Support
  • 2 – 1x4 at 33-3/4” – Arm Rests
  • 6 – 1x3 at 24” – Seat Slats
  • 2 – 1x2 at 24-1/2” – Back Frame
  • 6 – 1x3 at 22-1/2” – Back Frame Slats
  • 2 – ¾” dowel rods at 28” – Seat Pivot & Back Adjustment
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

There are several pieces that will have angles cut in the ends or bevels cut on the edges. It may be easiest to mark all of the pieces as they are cut.

Cut the pieces for the back legs, the side frames, the side spindles, and the front legs. The top of the back legs and the front legs will have a 5° angle cut in the top edge. The top frame pieces will be 1x3s that are ripped to 3-1/4” wide, then tapered to 1-1/2” at one end. The taper can be cut using a jigsaw or by using a tapering jig on the table saw. When drilling pocket holes in these two pieces, they will be treated as a right and a left – mark the pieces accordingly.

Using the ¾” paddle bit or hole saw, drill a hole in the back legs as indicated in the drawing. There will be a right piece and a left piece!

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the upper frame pieces, the lower frame pieces, and the spindles. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The inside of the frames will be flush with the inside face of the front 3x3 legs. Don’t forget – there will be a right frame and a left frame!

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the front stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the end frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the stretcher will be flush with the inside face of the front legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat frame. The entire seat will slant to the back by 5°. The front and back pieces will have a 5° bevel cut along one long edge while the side and support frame pieces will have a 5° angle cut in each end. Drill pocket holes in each end of the front frame piece and the center support, then drill pocket holes in the back end only of the side frame pieces. There will be a right and a left side frame piece!

Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the frame to the lower side frame pieces and the front stretcher as shown – the front is located 2-1/4” down from the top of the front stretcher and 4” down from the top of the side stretcher. Secure in place using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the arm rests. Secure to the front legs, back legs, and upper frame piece using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Space them approximately 1” apart, then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws or brad nails.

Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the back frame. Mark the radius in each end of the back frame pieces and cut using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Mark the position for the holes, and cut them using a ¾” paddle bit or hole saw.

Cut the pieces for the back slats. Secure them to the back frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws or brad nails. The upper hole (to adjust the position of the back) should fall in between slats.

Cut one of the ¾” dowel rods. Apply a coat of paste wax on the rod then thread through the hole in one back leg, through the lower holes in the back, and have it come out the hole in the opposite back leg. Glue a cap on each end of the rod so that it doesn’t slip or get pulled out.

Step 7

 The holes in the back legs to adjust the position of the back will be drilled last. They are not shown in the drawing because they have to be positioned in an arc.

To mark the holes, the back should go no farther forward than the front edge of the back leg (basically straight up and down). Mark through the upper hole in the back side frame. For the lowest reclining position, the back edge of the frame should not go any farther back than the back edge of the leg. The center position will be located somewhere in between the forward and back position. Drill the holes using a ¾” paddle bit or hole saw.

Cut the remaining ¾” dowel rod. Apply a coat of paste wax on the rod then thread through the hole in one back leg, through the upper holes in the back frame, and have it come out the hole in the opposite back leg. Glue a cap on ONE end of the rod so that it doesn’t slip or get pulled out – the other end will need to remain free for reclining adjustment.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post may contain affiliate links

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