Seating

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Wooden Truss Dining Bench

05|17|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter

Project Details

We covered the plans to build the table here and now the benches! Yahoo... Materials listed are to build two benches, even better, right? Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

2 – 1x2 at 4’
2 – 2x2 at 6’
1 – 2x3 at 4’
2 – 2x4 at 8’
6 – 2x6 at 8’

Materials

2-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
2-1/2” screws
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

8 – 2x6 at 16-7/16” – Legs
4 – 2x4 at 16-1/2” – Side Stretchers
4 – 2x3 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
4 – 2x4 at 16-1/2” – Seat Ends
6 – 2x6 at 68” – Seat Planks
4 – 2x2 at 33-7/8” – Truss
2 – 1x2 at 36-3/4” – Stretcher

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles in the legs as shown using a jigsaw, miter saw, or circular saw. Note that the angles are NOT cut at 45 degrees. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each leg. There will be two left legs and two right legs.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 stretcher. Assemble the sides as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The 2x3 stretchers will be perpendicular to the ground and will not follow the angle of the legs while the 2x4 stretcher will rest on top of the legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Position the seat as shown and secure using countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the upper side stretcher into the bottom of the seat.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the trusses. Cut the angles and the notches as shown. Position in the center of the lower stretcher and secure using toenailed 2-1/2” screws through the truss into the stretcher, as well as through the truss into the top on the underside.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the stretcher. Center on the trusses and secure using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Havana Islita Outdoor Ottoman

05|04|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Havana Islita Outdoor Ottoman! We did it! all 3 pieces, now you can get this collection built in time for summer bbq's and outdoor fun! Yahoo! We covered the corner chair and the armless chair and of course for all 3 pieces in the collection, click here!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink bit for drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

2 – 2x2 at 8’
5 – 1x2 at 8’

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
Chair Webbing and fasteners (if using the webbing option)
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x2 at 11” – Legs
4 – 2x2 at 26” – Stretchers
For the Slat option:
5 – 1x2 at 26” – Cleats
10 – 1x2 at 26” - Slats

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

If using the webbing, attach the webbing to the frame according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

If using the slats, continue as follows:

Cut the pieces for the cleats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the slats. Position the slats with approximately 1” spacing between them. Secure to the cleats using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Havana Islita Outdoor Corner Chair

05|01|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter

Project Details

We covered the armless chair here, and now the corner piece! You are just about finished with the pieces you need to make this beauty for your outdoor space! Arrange the pieces into a sectional or a sofa with a chaise and enjoy!! Xx...Rayan!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink bit for drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

6 – 2x2 at 8’
12 – 1x2 at 8’

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
Chair Webbing and fasteners (if using the webbing option)
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

3 – 2x2 at 12” – Angled Back Piece
1 – 2x2 at 11” – Front Legs
3 – 2x2 at 24” – Back Legs
2 – 2x2 at 9-3/4” – Upper Side Stretchers
2 – 2x2 at 38” – Lower Side Stretchers
6 – 2x2 at 38” – Stretchers
1 – 2x2 at 26” – Stretcher
1 – 2x2 at 28-1/4” - Stretcher
For the Slat option:
7 – 1x2 at 38” – Longer Shelf Slats
7 – 1x2 at 28-1/4” – Shorter Shelf Slats
10 – 1x2 at 28-1/4” – Back Slats
5 – 1x2 at 26” – Cleats
10 – 1x2 at 26” - Slats

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the angled back. Cut the angle in the top and bottom as shown (approximately 11 degrees). Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. There will be a right and a left!

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in the stretchers as shown. Assemble the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the remaining stretchers and the back leg. Drill pocket holes in each end then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the center back piece. This piece will be a little tricky in that the angles need to be cut from edge to edge instead of side to side in order for it to be positioned correctly. Drill pocket holes in each end and position as shown. Secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelf slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the slats will be flush with the top face of the frame.

If using the webbing, attach the webbing to the frame according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 5

If using the slats, continue as follows:

Cut the pieces for the back slats. Cut them all the longer length, and cut the 11 degree angle in one end. (There will be five right slats and five left slats) There will be approximately 1” between the slats. Starting with the upper pieces, drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Mark the position for the next slats and cut them to length. Drill pocket holes in each end of the slats then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holes. Continue in this manner for the remaining slats.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the cleats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Position the slats with approximately 1” spacing between them. Secure to the cleats using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Havana Islita Outdoor Armless Chair

04|29|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Havana Islita Outdoor Armless Chair! At long last we are bringing this baby BACK! Full frontal fabulousness or something along those lines. Can I get a yahoo?

Note: there are 2 options for building these pieces, one using wood and one using nylon strapping. Choose whichever you prefer!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink bit for drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

4 – 2x2 at 8’
8 – 1x2 at 8’

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
Chair Webbing and fasteners (if using the webbing option)
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 2x2 at 12” – Angled Back Piece
2 – 2x2 at 11” – Front Legs
2 – 2x2 at 24” – Back Legs
2 – 2x2 at 9-3/4” – Upper Side Stretchers
2 – 2x2 at 38” – Lower Side Stretchers
5 – 2x2 at 26” - Stretchers
For the Slat option:
5 – 1x2 at 26” – Cleats
22 – 1x2 at 26” - Slats

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the angled back. Cut the angle in the top and bottom as shown (approximately 11 degrees). Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in the stretchers as shown. Assemble the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the longer stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

If using the webbing, attach the webbing to the frame according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 4

If using the slats, continue as follows:

Cut the pieces for the back slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the slats will be flush with the outside face of the frame.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the cleats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Position the slats with approximately 1” spacing between them. Secure to the cleats using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Baltic Dining Chair

03|27|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Baltic Dining Chair! Let's do it, let's dive right into this one! I promise chairs are easier than they seem! Once you get past the angles of the back legs, you are in the safety zone and this baby will come together in a snap! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad nailer

Lumber

1 – 2x6 at 6’
1 – 2x3 at 4’
2 – 1x2 at 8’
1 – 1x3 at 6’
1 – 1x4 at 4’
1 – 1x4 at 8’

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 2x6 at 34” – Back Legs
2 – 2x3 at 17-1/4” – Front Legs
2 – 1x3 at 15” – Front & Back Stretchers
2 – 1x3 at 15-1/2” – Side Stretchers
5 – 1x4 at 18” – Slats
3 – 1x2 at 18” – Slats
4 – 1x2 (ripped to 1” wide) at 18” – Slats

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the back legs. Start by drawing the back leg on one of the 2x6 pieces and cut out using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Trace the leg on the other 2x6 piece and cut out. Clamp the pieces together and thoroughly sand so they are even.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the front legs as well as the front and back stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Attach to the front and back legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the front stretcher will be flush with the front face of the legs. The back face of the back stretcher will be flush with the inside face of the back legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the leg assemblies as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the slats. The back edge of one of the 1x4 slats will have ¾” x 1-1/2” notches cut in each corner to fit around the back legs. Attach to the chair fame as shown with ½” spacing between them using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Degraw Chair

03|11|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Degraw Chair. We have a special treat today friends with plans for this beauty Cher-Ann built! That periwinkle color is pretty much to die for! If you are interested in a little tutorial on stenciling your builds, head on over to her and check it out! Xx...Rayan

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

1 – 2x6 at 8’
1 – 2x2 at 4’
1 – 1x4 at 6’
1 – 1x3 at 6’
1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
Edge banding, optional
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 2x6 at 40” – Back Legs
2 – 1x3 at 15” – Front & Back Stretchers
4 – 1x4 at 15” – Back Slats
2 – 2x2 at 17-3/4” – Front Legs
2 – 1x3 at 17” – Side Stretchers
4 – 1x2 cut with 45 deg miters at each end for seat supports – random length
1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 20” - Seat

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the back legs. Cut the angles as shown using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Cut the pieces for the back slats and stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the pieces on the legs as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the slats will be flush with the front face of the legs. The stretcher will be positioned ¼” back from the outside edge of the legs.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron piece. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the frame pieces will be positioned ¼” back from the outside face of the legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. They can be any length with 45 degree miters at each end. Drill pocket holes in each mitered end (not shown in the drawing) and secure to the corners of the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches with a jigsaw and apply edge banding if being used. Secure to the chair frame using 1-1/4” screws through the underside of the supports into the bottom of the seat.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Degraw Bench

02|22|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Degraw Bench! I love the simplicity this piece has without lacking style! It would be a fabulous addition to homes with any number of styles!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer

Lumber

1 – 2x2 at 8’
1 – 2x2 at 6’
9 – 1x2 at 8’

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2” screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x2 at 4 – 2x2 at 18” – Legs
8 – 1x2 at 12” – Side Frames & Seat Frame
4 – 1x2 at 56-1/2” – Upper Stretchers & Seat Frame
3 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” – Seat Supports
1 – 2x2 at 58” – Lower Stretcher
16 – 1x2 at 17-3/4” – Seat Slats
8 – 1x2 at 18” – Seat Slats (Center)

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle as shown using a jigsaw, bandsaw, or tapering jig on the table saw. The angled side of the legs will face toward the longer sides.

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the pieces on the legs as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the frame pieces will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Position the pieces on the legs as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the frame pieces will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

Cut the piece for the lower stretcher. Secure to the lower side frame pieces using glue and countersunk 2” screws from the outside of the lower frame pieces.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat. Drill pocket holes as shown. Also, drill pocket holes along one edge of the outer slat pieces as noted to attach the longer trim pieces. (These pocket holes are not shown.)

Position the seat on the frame and secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the seat pieces into the stretchers and supports.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Offset Bench

02|08|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Offset Bench

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer

Lumber

1 – 2x2 at 6’
1 – 1x2 at 8’
1 – 1x3 at 8’
1 – 1x8 at 8’
One sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Edge banding for plywood
One set of 14” drawer slides
Drawer pull
4” foam
Upholstery batting
Upholstery fabric
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 2x2 at 13-1/4” – Left Legs (Shorter)
3 – 1x2 at 12”- Left & Right Frames, Right Slide Support
1 – 1x3 at 12” – Left Frame
2 – 2x2 at 17-1/4” – Right Legs (Longer)
1 – 1x8 (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) at 12” – Right Frame
1 – 1x8 (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) at 46-3/4” – Upper Back Stretcher
1 – 1x2 at 46-3/4” – Lower Back Stretcher
1 – 1x3 at 46-3/4” – Front Apron
1 – 1x8 (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) at 14-1/4” – Bench Divider
1 – 1x2 at 13-1/4” – Seat Support
2 – 1x3 at 13-1/2” – Seat Supports
1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 17-1/4” – Top
1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 32-1/2” – Seat
1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 13-1/4” – Drawer Bottom
2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 13-1/4” – Drawer Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 14” – Drawer Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 14-3/4” – Drawer Front

Instructions

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the left (shorter) side. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the right (taller) side. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the slide support. Attach to the right side frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers. Cut the notch in the upper stretcher as shown using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces and position on the legs as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the front stretcher. Cut the notch in the stretcher as shown using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher and position on the legs as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the divider. Cut the notch using a jigsaw or bandsaw, then drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the front and back aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the seat supports. The 1x2 support will be positioned on the divider as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holescrews.

Position the 1x3 supports and secure in the same manner.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the divider, back, and right side frame.

Cut the piece for the seat. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the supports, back, front, and left side frame.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer box by 3/8" on each side. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 9

Create the box cushion for the seat. For an easy tutorial, click here.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Bench

01|18|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Bench. We covered the plans for the locker unit here, and now the bench! You can see down below how this lovely modular family actually looks when it's all completed!!! It's fab, right?

Pretty cool, eh?

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad nailer

Lumber

1 - 1x2 at 3’
2 – 1x6 at 8’
1 full sheet of ¾”plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Edge banding for plywood, optional
One pair of 16” drawer slides
Cabinet knob or pull
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 35-1/2” – Sides
2 – 1x2 at 16-3/4” – Seat Supports
1 – 1x6 at 45-1/2”- Back Stretcher
1 – ¾” plywood at 18-3/4” x 45-1/2” – Seat
1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 45-1/2” – Back
2 – 1x6 at 11-3/4” – Front Aprons
2 – 1x6 at 16-3/4” – Drawer Supports
1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
2 – 1x6 (ripped to 5-3/8” wide) at 16” – Drawer Sides
1 – 1x6 (ripped to 5-3/8” wide) at 21” – Drawer Back
1 – 1x6 (ripped to 5-3/8” wide) at 21-3/4” – Drawer Front

Instructions

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will need to be applied before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Maintain the dimensions as shown when cutting the curves. The curve at the back is optional and can be made by drawing a line 1” in from the back edge, marking the center of that line, then drawing lines from the center to the back corners. Cut out with a jigsaw.

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the seat. The front of the seat will overlap by ½”. Secure to the supports and back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or countersunk screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge as show. Position the back so it rests on the seat and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the front aprons and drawer supports. Drill pocket holes in one end of each apron pieces, as well as each end of the drawer supports. Assemble as shown, then attach to the sides and back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Attach the cabinet pull or handle if desired.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Land of Nod District Storage Bench with Bin

11|05|12

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Land of Nod District Storage Bench with Bin. These benches are stackable and work in conjunction with these storage benches here, so mix and match until your heart's content!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer

Lumber

Half sheet of ¾” plywood
2 – 1x2 at 8’
1 – 1x3 at 2’
1 – 1x4 at 2’
Quarter sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Edge banding for edges of plywood
2 – Angle brackets (to secure 2 units together if stacked)
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x2 at 10-1/2” – Bottom Frame
2 – 1x2 at 38-1/4” – Bottom Frame
4 – 1x3 at 4” – Feet
4 – 1x4 at 4” – Feet
2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 39-3/4” – Top & Bottom
3 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 13-1/2” – Dividers
1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 24” – Bin Front
2 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” – Stretchers
2 – 1x2 at 24” – Stretchers
1 – 1/4” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 13-1/2” x 39-3/4” – Back

Instructions

Step 1

Apply edge banding to exposed plywood edges before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

If building the units to stack, do not build the feet. The only piece that will need feet is the base unit.

Cut the pieces for the feet. Cut the angle as shown. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. There will be two left feet and two right feet. Attach to the frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the bottom. Attach to the frame and feet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom into the frame.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends of the dividers. Attach to the bottom at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.