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Oct
14
2014
DIY Ram's Horn Shelf and Skeleton Taxidermy Display // Easy Halloween Decor Project

Tis the season, as they say, and with this easy project you will add just the right amount of haunt to your Halloween decor, in a snap. To create your own Ram's Horn Display Shelf, only a few items and a few minutes of your time are needed. This project is seriously that easy... if you love the look of taxidermy or horns, then this could easily be a project you create any time of year, it really isn't specific to Halloween!

Spooky Display for The Design Confidential DIY Ram's Horn Shelf and Skeleton Taxidermy Display // Easy Halloween Decor Project

MATERIALS // Shelf

/ 1x6 at 6 feet. I used a dog eared cedar fence board like this because they are really inexpensive!

/ 2 - 1 1/2" Right Angle Brackets

1 1/4" Screws and Wall Anchors for Drywall

#6 3/8" Screws if using a fence board and #6 1/2" Screws if using a regular 1x6 board.

Gold Ram's Horns

Sandpaper

Finishing Supplies if you plan to paint or stain your shelf. I left mine natural.

INSTRUCTIONS //

/ Cut your board down to size. Something around or under 3 feet in length is best. Sand according to your intended finish. If you plan to leave natural, sand rough edges and you will obviously need to sand quite a bit more if you plan to stain or paint your shelf. Attach your right angle brackets approximately 4 to 6 inches in from the outside edges of your board (the longer your board, the further in you will place your brackets). The hardware will attach to the bottom your board and hang downward. Mark your holes on the wall where you plan to fasten your shelf (since you attached the brackets to the board already, this will be a snap) and then put your wall anchors in place according to the instructions on the package. Set the screw holes on your bracket hardware over the top of your wall anchors (which should be fairly flush to the wall once in place) and using the screws provided with your anchors, fasten your shelf in place.

/ You are going to place a 2 1/2" drywall screw just to the outside of each of your brackets and fairly close to the bottom of your board. You will not screw this in very far. It should protrude from your wall about 2 1/4" give or take.

/ Cut your horns apart (they likely have a clear cord that would sit around your head if you were using these properly - but we are not - so cut the cord my friends, or at least unsecure it. Holding your horns at the approximate location of your long screws, determine the angle you want them to sit and make a light mark on the top in this place to note the direction for our next step. Using an extra screw, create a small hole in the flat part of the horn that is fairly near the top edge, just below where you made your mark. You are going to use this hole to help you slide the horn over the top of your screw. It will rest on the screw and sit under your board, appearing as though it is the bracket for your shelf. ** You can use a bit of mounting tape or duck tape to stick your horn in place over your brackets so they will hide the hardware and also so they are not loose. You want them to sit nice and tight, right up against your board. 

That is it, you are finished! Place something light weight to display on your shelf!

Antler Display for The Design Confidential DIY Ram's Horn Shelf and Skeleton Taxidermy Display // Easy Halloween Decor Project

To mount my antler inside the frame, I simply used removable mounting putty on each point where it touches the wall. This baby is pretty secure over here, but if you expect small children to be in the vicinity (especially below a sharp pointy antler), perhaps you should secure using nylon finishing line and wrap around the hardware used to hang your frame.

DECOR SOURCES // Halloween Cat / Halloween Crow / Golden Horns

VINTAGE + OTHER ITEMS // Frame is Vintage / Table - Zinc Garden Table from Crate & Barrel - Similar Table Here and Exact Table For Sale By Owner Here / Stacking Candelabra - PotteryBarn - Similar Found Here and Here / Antlers found on eBay - Similar Here and Here / Gold + White Antler Wall Sculpture - Target Threshold Brand - this would work beautifully as well.

Oct
08
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Project Details

The Low Loft Bunk Bed Series is hands down our most popular series of project plans to date. Many of you have asked for a queen sized version of this fabulous sleeper and I am finally obliging! Yahoo. I have made a modification to the ladder in this plan, for both the orientation as well as the method of construction, to be more accomodating to adults and to allow for a more compact footprint. You can refer to this if you prefer it, when you are building any of the other sizes, and can adjust the width for the person who will use it. Easy to build, and extremely budget friendly, this Free Woodworking plan to build a queen sized low loft bunk bed is the perfect project for those of you who need to go up rather than out in your furniture layout. Upward and onward, as they say.

The other amazing plans in this collection are below! 

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Twin Sized Low Loft Bunk

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Toddler Sized Low Loft Bunk

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Full Sized Low Loft Bunk

The Deets
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Tools
Lumber
  • 4 - 4x4 at 6' Fence Posts - UNTREATED
  • 2 - 2x6 at 8'
  • 2 - 2x6 at 6'
  • 14 - 2x4 at 8'
  • 15 - 1x4 at 6' - if 8' boards are cheaper, buy those - you will have leftover scrap.
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 at 59" - Legs
  • 2 - 2x6 at 81" - Side Rails
  • 2 - 2x6 at 70" - Head / Foot Rails
  • 2 - 2x4 at 81" - Cleats
  • 4 - 2x4 at 81" - Upper Side Rails and Center Support Joists
  • 4 - 2x4 at 70" - Upper Head / Foot Rails
  • 1 - 2x4 at 59" - Front Guard Rai Ladder Leg
  • 4 - 2x4 at 8 3/4" - Lower Front Guard Rail Ladder Supports
  • 1 - 2x4 at 18" - Upper Front Guard Rail Ladder Supports
  • 2 - 2x4 at 55" - Guard Rail Side Upper Rails
  • 4 - 2x4 at 27" - Ladder Rungs
  • 15 - 1x4 at 67" - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut all 4 Legs to size and then notch out the sections shown in the image on one of the legs. You can use a jig saw, table saw or a circular saw to do this. Then attach the Cleats to the Side Rails using 2" Screws and be sure the bottom of the Side Rail and the Cleat are flush. You 

To attach the Rails to the Legs you will arrange the pieces as shown in the diagram below, making sure to leave 1 1/2" on either side of the ends of the Rails to allow for the Head and Foot Rails later. Clamp together making sure everything is completely square before you proceed. Once square and aligned as needed, you will use a 7/16" Drill Bit and drill through all 3 pieces on each side (the leg, rail and cleat), creating 2 holes on either side for the bolts that will secure this. 

Fasten with your Carriage Bolts and tighten.

Legs and Side Rails for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 2

Attach the Lower Head and Foot Rails to the Side Rails so that they sit flush with the outside of the Legs and with the Lower Side Rails. Use 3" Screws to secure these to the Side Rails. Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" material, to secure the Center Support Joists to the Head and Foot Rails and 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws. Then fasten the Upper Side Rails one one side (not the side that will have your ladder) to the Back Legs using 3" Screws.

Upper Side Rails and Support Joists for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 3

Create your Guard Rail Leg Unit. This will be 2 - 2x4's, one long and the other cut into sections with spacing and dimensions as shown in the image. This will hold your ladder rungs later so just be sure that the separation between your shorter ladder supports will actually fit a 2x4 nice and snug. You need to fit it in place but you don't want any wiggle room so a tight fit is better than a slightly loose fit. Attach the Front Upper Side Rails to the Leg using 3" screws and attach to the Guard Rail Leg Unit using 2" Screws.

Guard Rail Side Rails and Ladder Legs for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 4

Attach the Upper Head Rails on the side opposite where you choose to put the ladder, in my example this would be the left side. Use 3" Screws and secure into the ends of the Upper Side Rails. 

Upper Head Rails for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 5

Lay your Slats approximately 2" apart. Be sure the 2 on the outside edges are flush in both corners. Screw down using 1 1/4" Screws or Nails and fasten to both cleats and both support joists.

Bed Slats for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 6

Attach the remaining 2 upper Foot Rails to the Back Upper Side Rails and the Front Leg using a Pocket hole System (Kreg Jig) set for 1 1/2" materials and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the Rails to the front Leg. To fasten the Foot Rails to the Back Side you can either use Pocket Hole Screws and glue to connect them to the Back Leg or 3" Wood Screws and Glue, with a countersink bit to predrill and secure directly to the end of the Upper Side Rails. 

Slide the Ladder Rungs into place and secure with glue. You can choose to secure with 3" Wood Screws from the legs into the ends of the rungs, but this is optional and you can absolutely secure with glue and call it a day!

Ladder Rungs and Upper Foot Rails for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 7
Step 8
Step 9
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
24
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Project Details

I am so very excited to share this project with you today! You see, we are still in the warmer months out here in Northern California, but it is finally starting to cool down enough that we can actually enjoy some outdoor time. One of my favorite things to do, ever! So you better believe that when the amazing folks over at Simpson Strong-Tie challenged me to create something using their Workbench/Shelving Hardware Kit, that includes the metal connectors and screws (and fabulous directions for building a workbench or shelving unit), I had to build something that had nothing whatsoever to do with the kit’s initial intention. Naturally… And instead, I built something that can be used outside as easily as it can be used inside and for a variety of purposes and people, because that is how we roll here at TDC, am I right?

So this baby is one part outdoor chaise daybed lounge, one part twin sized bed, and one part indoor or outdoor playhouse! If you are just heading into your nice weather too, you can enjoy this fun house with a canopy over top for shade and lounge away or as an open construction imaginative play space for the kids. But, if you are beginning the descent into normal fall and winter months, this piece is a great way to bring some fun indoors without sacrificing playtime or sleep since there is plenty of room for both!

For mine, I spray painted the hardware in a neon yellow, then gave it a clear protective coat, and I left enough space below the floor to slide the mattress under and out of the way for when my boys want to play. Of course, you can use this space for storage and toys or lower the floor altogether and let the play have free reign. If you would like to build this using the kits, which made this build so ridiculously easy to put together, you can purchase them here and be sure to check out other clever uses for these on their FB page

Psst... the easy tutorial for the pretend campfire will be coming soon! Thank you to Simpson Strong-Tie for sponsoring this project and thank you to all of you for supporting the sponsor that help make content like this possible. You all make my world go round! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$125-$150
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Nail Gun
Lumber
  • 10 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 5 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 10 – 2x3 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 42-1/2” - Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 42-1/2” - Legs
  • 2 – 2x3 at 74” - Bottom Sides
  • 2 – 2x3 at 37” - Bottom Head and Foot
  • 2 – 2x2 at 75” – Outer Slat Supports
  • 2 – 2x3 at 75” – Inner Slat Supports
  • 20 – 1x4 at 39” – Slats
  • 2 – 2x3 at 37” - Top Head and Foot
  • 2 – 2x3 at 74” - Top Sides
  • 2 – 2x3 at 31” Roof Front Rafters
  • 2 – 2x3 at 29 ½” Roof Back Rafters
  • 1 – 2x2 at 74” - Roof Ridge Beam
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

* Notes: This bed will be hard to get through doorways once it is completely built. If you plan this for indoor use, you would be well served to build this in sections and then assemble in place. The sections I would build this in are 2 leg unit/sides: this would be a head and foot leg with side rail and there will be 2 of these for this bed, the floor: this would be the head and foot rails, slat supports and slats, and the roof: both pitches and the roof beam. The instructions below direct you to build these sections in this manner, so rather than attaching each section to the hardware as shown, you will build each section, move into place, and then secure each section to the hardware. Yahoo.

Step 1

Cut the lumber for the four Legs at the appropriate length. Each Leg will be composed of a 2x2 piece and a 2x3 piece. Set your Kreg Jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes as shown at the top of each 2x3 Leg. This will help you secure your roof pieces later.  Attach the 2x2 piece to the 2x3 piece with glue and 2” wood screws. Be sure to countersink for the best result.

Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Sides. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Sides and assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Note that the Bottom Side is attached to the 2x3 portion of the Leg. You will do this two times, once for each side of the project. Take note of the position of the legs here (the 2x3 versus the 2x2). Your second leg unit will mirror this and your pocket hole placement should be facing in toward your 2x2 leg pieces.

Note: The placement of this side rail is a bit subjective and flexible. You can place it higher as shown below if you want store things underneath (like the mattress during play or when not used as bed). If you only plan for one use, feel free to set this piece at 3” up from the bottom.

Bottom Side Rails and Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 3

Attach the connectors as shown by using provided screws. They will slide up and support the side rails and should attach where your side rails meet your leg units.

Note the direction of the connectors below. You will place the empty arm of your connector on the side of your leg unit where your 2x2 sits and away from the side rails themselves. 

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Head and Foot Rails and the 2x3 Inner Slat Supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Inner Slat Supports. Attach the Slat Supports to the Bottom Head and Foot with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. 

Step 5

Build your floor: Cut the Slats. Note that the first and last Slat will be ½” shorter on each end - this will allow room for the hardware. Attach the Slats to the Inner Slat Supports as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. The first and last slat will be spaced about 3/16” from the Bottom Head and Foot Rails. The Slats will be spaced between 1/4” from each other.

Step 6

Cut the 2x2 Outer Slat Supports. Attach the Outer Slats Supports to the Slats as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. (The Slat assembly has been flipped over in this graphic to better show how to line the pieces up.)

Step 7

Now things are really coming together for this piece! Place the slat assembly on top of the Legs/Bottom Sides/Brackets. Attach with provided connector hardware.

Step 8

Next, attach the Upper Connectors to the Legs with the provided connector hardware. Note that the top of the connector will sit 1/2” above the top of the Legs.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Upper Sides, Head and Foot. Assemble as shown by “nesting” the pieces into the connectors. Secure wood to the brackets by using the provided connector hardware. 

Step 10

This step will seem a tad tricky, but if you give yourself just a bit of wiggle room in your initial cut for this (2” or so will do it – cut at 33” and 31 ½”), then create your beveled ends and then adjust for length on the top which will be a standard straight cut, you will be just fine!

To create your beveled ends, you will lay your board flat and set against your fence, then tilt your saw blade to a 45⁰ angle. Note that tilt in this context does not mean turn but actually tilt. Your cut angle (the miter) will remain at 0 or 90⁰ depending on how your saw reads.

Make your first bevel cut, then flip the board over to the back side and made a second bevel cut 5/8” from the pointed edge. This will create a flat surface for your pitch to sit and will then carve off enough point to allow it to rest right inside your upper brackets!

Step 11

The Roof Beam is simply a 2x2 that runs between your two A-Frame Roof Lines. You will connect all pieces as you see above, using the provided connector hardware, however this beam might also benefit from pocket hole screws on either end to secure it to the pitch in a secondary manner. The connector hardware will be plenty strong, but since we are using the hardware in a non-traditional manner here and it isn’t sitting underneath the beam, it never hurts to give your joints a bit of that something extra, just in case your kiddos get monkey bar bound!

Step 12

To secure your roof section to your legs, fasten in place with those pocket holes you created in the legs early on! You can also secure from the top down into the legs using a countersink bit and 2” Wood Screws if you prefer. Just be sure to do this on the widest portion of leg unit you can so it doesn’t split apart your 2 boards that form those leg units or split your wood.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

TDC 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
12
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Project Details

By special reader request, this beauty was a gem to find in our plan request queue! I adore a gorgeous desk plan especially one of this variety of design! I hope you all like it too! 

We have quite a few other free desk plans for your woodworking enjoyment, but in particular I'm currently crushing on the stacked wood timber slat desk, the campaign desk, and the bromley secretaire desk!

Happy building friends, and be sure to enter our Giveaway over here if you haven't already! No sign ups required, just perusing and daydreaming! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood at 4’ x 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood at 2’ x 4’
  • 1/2” dowel at 2’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 27-3/4” (may need to rip 2x4s down to 2-1/2”) – Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 39” – Front and Back Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 41” – Middle Stretcher
  • 2 – 1/2”x3” (may need to purchase 1/2”x4” and rip down to 2-1/2”) at 43-1/2” – Long Top Frame Pieces
  • 3 – 1/2”x3” (may need to purchase 1/2”x4” and rip down to 2-1/2”) at 14-1/2” – Short Top Frame Pieces
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 44” x 20” – Table Top
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14” x 20” – Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20” – Cabinet Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Drawer Guides
  • 1 – 1x2 at 14” – Drawer Divider
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 13-1/2” x 14” – Cabinet Back
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 17” x 3” – Top Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Top Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 2-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Top Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 4” x 13-1/2” – Top Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 17” x 8” – Bottom Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Bottom Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 7-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 8-3/4” x 13-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1/2” dowels at 5” – Top Dowels
  • 4 – 1/2” dowels at 3” – Side Dowels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the lumber for the four Legs at the appropriate length. All four Legs will be cut at an angle on the inside, but two of the legs will need holes drilled in them. Use a 1/2” spade bit to drill holes on the narrow side of the wood in two Legs. It is easier to drill these holes before cutting the wood at an angle, since a flat surface is easier to work with when drilling. Drill the holes approximately 2” deep.

Next, draw out the measurements on all four Legs and cut as shown. The tapered leg will start at 2-1/2” from the top of the Legs. 

Leg Pattern for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
How to Make the Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Front and Back Aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Front and Back Aprons Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Only attach one “drilled” leg on both the Front and the Back Apron. Make sure that the holes face the inside of the project, since 1/2” dowels will be inserted in them at a later step.

Front and Back Aprons with Pocket Hole Screws and the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Side Aprons, and drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Side Aprons using the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Side Stretchers and Middle Stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the Side Stretchers to the Legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the Middle Stretcher to the Side Stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Side Stretchers with Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Middle Stretcher using the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Long Top Frame and Short Top Frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Short Top Frame pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. Next, drill two 1/2” holes all the way through the wood as shown. These holes will receive 1/2” dowels in a later step.

Arrange Top Frame as shown with a 1/4” reveal on each edge. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut Long and Top Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Arrange Top Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 6

Cut the Table Top and secure using glue and 1” screws (screwed from the bottom). The Table Top will extend 1/4” past the Top Frame, and will be flush with the Legs and Aprons.

Table Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Sides. In only one of the Cabinet Sides, drill 1/2” holes approximately 1/4” deep, in each corner as shown.

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Top and Bottom. Drill 1/2” holes in the Cabinet Top as shown at a 1/4” depth.

Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the Top and Bottom Sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cabinet Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Cabinet Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Secure with Pocket hole screws and Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the Drawer Guides. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails (nail from the outside of the Sides). If you want to nail the Drawer Guide from the inside, do so before assembling Cabinet Box (space is limited inside the box), or simply glue and clamp until dry.

Drawer Glides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 9

Cut the piece for the Drawer Divider. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Drawer Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 10

Cut the piece for the Cabinet Back. Drill pocket holes in all sides of the Cabinet Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cabinet Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Top Drawer Sides and Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the front ends of the Top Drawer Sides and in the sides and front of the Top Drawer Bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Top Drawer Back. Drill pocket holes in the ends and bottom of the Top Drawer Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Top Drawer Front. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.  The top of the Front will extend 1/4” above the top of the Drawer and the Bottom will extend 3/4” beyond the bottom of the drawer.

Top Drawer Sides and Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Top Drawer Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Top Drawer Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Drawer Sides and Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the front ends of the Bottom Drawer Sides and in the sides and front of the Bottom Drawer Bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Bottom Drawer Back. Drill pocket holes in the ends and bottom of the Bottom Drawer Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Bottom Drawer Front. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. The top of the Front will extend 1” above the top of the Drawer and the Bottom will be 1/4” above the bottom of the drawer.

Step 13

Now on to the really fun part! Put a nice dab of glue in each drilled hole. The 5” length dowels connect the Cabinet to the Table Frame and the 3” length dowels connect the Cabinet to the Legs. The Cabinet itself should be flush with the front and back of the Desk. The Cabinet side should be 3-1/2” in from the side of the Desk. TIP: Paint the dowels a metallic color before gluing and inserting into the holes.

Desk Assembly for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Aug
29
2014
Top 10 DIY Desk Plans + Back to School Furniture Projects

We survived the first week and a half of First Grade! I mentioned in my Back to School  Blues + Red Hot School Supplies Roundup that Blakey was nervous about starting school and being away for the entire day, every single day. He is always fine after the first 10 minutes, but his anticipation and anxiety was fairly extreme this year. I'm sure those of you who have school aged kiddos know precisely what I mean.

Top 10 DIY Desk Plans + Back to School Furniture Projects 6 - 10

From cool storage compartments to paper holders, these desks offer something special for every type of kiddo and circumstance. If you need a desk that does double duty as storage or play, then we have you covered. If you need to fit big functionality in a not so big space, maybe a pull out writing surface is just the thing... 

6 // Finn Desk 7 // Rowley Desk 8 // Blake Desk + Hutch 9 // Little Sloane Leaning Desk 10 // Carolina Craft Table

Kiddos 
Design 
DIY 
Aug
25
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Project Details

Oh this piece of DIY Furniture might be one of my absolute faves! So utterly versatile and just the coolest... lay it flat to enjoy on your front side or snooze and when you feel like it, simply put it in one of several incline positions to lounge and chat! Isn't that amazing? Check out the images at the bottom to see how this gal moves and functions! Xx... Rayan

Of course if you prefer a more tradition lounging option our Free DIY Plans to Build a Chesapeake Single Chaise Lounge is a fabulous alternative and let's not forget the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Chesapeake Double Chaise Lounger for those of you who prefer to snuggle up with another person while you bake or lounge in the sun! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 5 – 1x3 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 75”– Main Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 29-1/2”– Main Frame Top and Bottom
  • 5 – 1x3 at 31” – Main Frame Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 19”– Middle Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 26”– Middle Frame Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 1x4 at 2-1/2”– Middle Frame Spacers
  • 4 – 1x3 at 27-1/2”– Middle Frame Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 30-1/4”– Upper Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1x4 at 27-1/2”– Upper Frame Top
  • 5 – 1x3 at 29” – Upper Frame Slats 
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the two Main Frame Sides. Drill a 1/2” hole 29” from one end of the Side and 1-3/4” from the top. Please note that all hole measurements will be TO the center of the hole. Drill another 1/2” hole 3” from the other end of the Side. Drill a series of 4 more holes in the same manner as shown, 3” on center and 1-3/4” from the top. You can drill more than 5 holes if you wish – this will give you even more adjustment opportunities! You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. If you feel confident, clamp the Main Frame Sides together and drill both holes at once through the pieces.

Outside Frame Hole Placement for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 2

Cut out the Main Frame Top and Bottom and attach to the Main Frame Sides as shown with glue and pocket screws. 

Outside Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 3

Cut out the Main Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Main Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 4

Next, cut out the Middle Frame Sides. Drill a 1/2” hole positioned 1-1/2” from each end and 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. Or you can clamp the Middle Frame Sides together and drill both holes at once through the pieces.

Mid Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 5

Cut and attach the Middle Frame Top and Bottom to the Middle Frame Sides as shown with glue and pocket screws. 

Middle Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 6

Next, cut the Middle Frame Spacers. Drill a 1/2” hole positioned 1-1/2” from the end and 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Spacer. Or you can clamp the Spacers together and drill both holes at once through the pieces. Align Spacers with the Sides so that the drilled holes match up and the edges are flush. Attach Spacers to the Middle Frame Sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Mid Frame Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 7

Cut out the Middle Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Mid Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 8

On to the last portion of the Futon! Cut the pieces for the Upper Frame Sides. Drill two 1/2” holes – one positioned 1-3/4” from one end, and the other 1-1/4” from the other end, both 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. Or you can clamp the Sides together and drill both holes at once through both pieces.

Upper Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 9

Next, cut the Upper Frame Top and secure to the Upper Frame Sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Upper Frame Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 10

Cut out the Upper Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Upper Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 11

This is where the piece really starts to take shape! Lay out the Main Frame on a flat surface. Place the Middle Frame and Upper Frame within the Main Frame as shown. Attach the Upper Frame to the Middle Frame by aligning the drilled holes and inserting the (2) 2” clevis pins and hitch pin clips on both sides. Attach the Middle Frame to the Main Frame by aligning the drilled holes and inserting the (2) 3” clevis pins and hitch pin clips on both sides. Use the (2) 2” clevis pins and hitch pin clips to secure the Upper Frame to the Main Frame in the desired adjustment holes. Add a cushion for extra comfort! After finishing, you might find it helpful to apply a coat of paste wax to the areas of the Futon that pivot and rub against each other. Large washers may also be used for extra reinforcement at the end of the clevis pins. Lastly, use a sander on edges if you want a more rounded, softer appearance. 

Clevis Pin Assembly for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 12

Check out how versatile this piece is! It can lay flat or incline to several positions. We’ve included a few more graphics for you to see this Futon in motion.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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