• Essentials from Target for The Design Confidential Feeling Fall // Essentials for Creating a Cozy Mantel
  • Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
  • Family Room Sneak Peek / The Design Confidential in Collaboration with Joss and Main for a Curators Collection Sale Story Interview
  • Hammock and Lounging Area for the Home Depot Style Challenge Outdoor Games Edition
  • DIY Faux Watercolor Wallpaper Wall Treatment with Paint
  • Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Tri Trestle Table
  • DIY Home Decor // How To Make Your Own Removable Wallpaper

Browse all Free Woodworking Plans

May
01
2014
Project Details

This fabulous ottoman pairs perfectly with the Sawyer Adirondak Outdoor Chair! What an amazing duo of DIY furniture these two projects are! The most difficult portion of this plan is the freehand cutting, and even that should actually be a bit of a fun challenge, nothing to difficult that you can’t tackle! All of the marking and and measuring should be quite fun! Did I mention this plan is inexpensive to build?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’ ** you can purchase a fence board like this for savings, or use your plywood and cut it into strips.
  • 1 – 1x6 at 6’ **you can purchase a fence board like this for big savings or use your plywood and cut it into strips. You will need to rip this down into 4 1/2” strip for the Slats.
  • 1 –  4'x4' sheet of 3/4" plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4" plywood at 15" x 19"
  • 2 – 1x4 at 22 1/2” Aprons
  • 3 – 1x6 (ripped down into 4 1/2” width strips) at 22 1/2”
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut Out your Legs: The first diagram shows you the lengths of each side you will cut and the actual dimensions of your leg unit. You will need two identical units like this that will mirror each other so you may want to flip your sheet to mark out the other panel. The image below shows you where these cuts sits relative to the edges of your plywood. 

Step 2

Cut Out your Legs: This is your guide for locating your leg panel. It helps you place your panel properly so you can get the correct angles without working overtime with fancy cuts and tools. Use a jigsaw or circular saw to cut this shape out of your plywood sheet. You will need two of these that mirror each other, so consider flipping your sheet over to place your second panel. 

Step 3

Attach the Ottoman Aprons: Using your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue you will fasten the pieces together as shown below. The Aprons will be placed 1 1/4” from the top of the Front Edge and the Top of the Back edge.

Step 4

Rip your Slats down to Size: Beginning with a 1x6, you will rip your boards into a 4 1/2” width (shaving off 1” from the actual width of a 1x6) and then tack them down 1/2” from the Top Edge of the Top Leg, and space them 1” Apart. Use Galvanized Nails or Screws to Fasten in Place.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Apr
28
2014
DIY Outdoor Furniture Coffee Table Plans
Project Details

It is almost that time of year where outdoor furniture becomes a priority around these parts, and an easy DIY furniture build is at the top of your project lists, so I'm going to make things easy on you...

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Outdoor Furniture Coffee Table Project and Kreg Jig Plan
Tools
Lumber
  • 10 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x2 at 15-3/4” - Legs
  • 4 – 1x3 at 26” – Side Slats
  • 12 – 1x2 at 26” – Side Slats
  • 4 – 1x3 at 47” – Front & Back Slats
  • 12 – 1x2 at 47” – Front & Back Slats
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 27-1/2” x 47” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the legs and side slats. Attach the slats to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The slats should be spaced with approximately ¼” between them.

Step 1 How to Build Side and Legs for Easy DIY Outdoor Furniture Coffee Table Project and Kreg Jig Plan
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the front and back slats. Attach the slats to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The slat spacing should match that of the sides.

Step 2 How to Build Front Back Slats for Easy DIY Outdoor Furniture Coffee Table Project and Kreg Jig Plan
Step 3

 Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the legs and upper slats using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3 How to Build Table Top for Easy DIY Outdoor Furniture Coffee Table Project and Kreg Jig Plan
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Apr
21
2014
Project Details

A fabulous nightstand for storage and to set your lighting and a few display items and pretties. This piece sits at a moderate height and will accommodate those of you who don't love a really high nightstand but don't want a tiny little thing either. A nice substantial size and width with a good set of legs, if I do say so... Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 21-1/4” – Legs
  • 8 – 1x2 at 22” – Side Frames, Back Frame, Front Stretchers
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 22” – Side & Back Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22” x 22” - Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 23-1/2” - Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12-1/4” – Drawer Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-1/2” x 26” - Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/4” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x3 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x3 at 11-1/4” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 12” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-3/4” x 15-1/2” - Door
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as all four edges of the panels. Attach the frame pieces to the panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame pieces and back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as all four edges of the panel. Attach the frame pieces to the panel as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Orient the pocket holes so the top stretcher faces up and the lower stretcher faces down. This way, the pocket holes will be hidden and not have to be filled. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position in the cabinet and secure to the lower stretcher, and lower back and side frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the divider and cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the back and bottom edges as shown. These will be hidden in the drawer bank and will not have to be filled. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. The front and side edges will overhang by ½”. Spread glue on the top of the upper stretchers, position the top, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the side and divider. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

Step 10

Cut the piece for the door. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post contains affiliate links

Apr
16
2014
Project Details

A gorgeous dresser for all of your storage needs! Dress this beauty up, add detailing or leave it simple and modern as it currently is! I love that it's entirely up to you! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$150-$200

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 3 – 1x2 at 8’ OR
  • Cut all of the 1x2 strips from the plywood so that the species of the wood matches
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 66-1/2” - Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 31-1/2” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 30-3/4” x 66-1/2” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 30-3/4” - Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 64” - Base
  • 3 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” - Base
  • 4 – 1x2 at 32-7/8” - Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 68” - Top
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 30-3/8” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 12 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 12 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 31-7/8” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 8 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/16” x 33-15/16” – Drawer Front Slats
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-7/16” x 33-15/16” – Drawer Front Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom. Secure the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position the back inside the sides, resting on the bottom, and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in the back and bottom edges. Secure to the back and bottom of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the base. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Also drill pocket holes along the long edges of each piece. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the base frame on the bottom as indicated in the drawing. Secure to the base using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides and divider as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the back, and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and divider.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them flush with the front of the sides and divider. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. The top and bottom slat pieces are wider than the center slat pieces (see the drawing). The top slats will be flush with the top edge of the dresser, all slats will be flush with the sides. There will be a 1/8” gap between the slats as well as at the center. Starting with the top slats, secure to the drawer box using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Space the remaining slats, then secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails working your way down.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post Contains Affiliate Links

Apr
14
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this gorgeous dining table is both modern and elegant but perhaps best of all, an easy build! I love an easy build, especially these days! I am so excited to show you what I have been working on... If you haven't caught any blurbs so far, there is an update to this post with some important details and I hope some of you will jump on board! It's time to grow the team and make things better here at TDC. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x8 at 6’
  • 3 – 2x8 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’ - Top
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’ - Top
  • 3 – 2x8 at 8’ - Top
  • 4 – 2x3 at 40-1/2” – Top Supports
  • 10 – 2x2 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x6 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x8 at 28-1/2” - Legs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the top and the top supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes along the long edges of each 2x3 support. Working on a flat surface, position each of the boards for the top as shown.  Place the 2x3 supports as shown (with the pocket holes facing each other so that pocket hole screws can be inserted to secure the legs), then secure to each board using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws. 

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Drill pocket holes in the 2x6 and 2x8 pieces as shown. Secure the wider 2x material to the 2x2 pieces ash shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Place the each of the leg assemblies between a pair of the 2x3 supports and secure using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue as the table may have to be taken apart to move it!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post may contain affiliate links

Apr
09
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, I'm thinking this very smart reader is obviously one step ahead of me and perhaps this should be a build in my very near future as well! Especially with the week I have had, eek! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x2 at 23” – Base Frame Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 18-1/2” – Base Frame Sides
  • 3 – 2x2 at 50” – Base Frame Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 51-1/2” - Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 27-1/2” - Sides
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 2-3/4” x 20” – Shelf Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 51-1/2” – Shelf
  • 1 – 1x4 at 53” – Front Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 26-3/4” x 51-1/2” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 53” - Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 23-1/4” - Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 14-1/4” – Cubby Shelf
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 21-13/16” – Wine Caddy
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 12-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/8” x 11-3/4” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/8” x 14” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/8” x 14-7/8” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Door Caddy Bottom
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 7-1/4” – Door Caddy Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Door Caddy Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 24-5/8” x 26-7/16” - Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as the stretchers. Secure the side pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Secure the stretchers to the legs and lower side pieces using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face down and won’t have to be filled.

Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the sides and back on the base so that the back and side edges are flush – it will be located ¾” back from the front of the base. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the shelf supports and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece. Secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The supports are flush with the front edge of the bottom which makes them ¾” short to allow for the back.

Cut the piece for the shelf. Position the shelf on the supports then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The shelf will be flush with the front edge of the supports.

Cut the piece for the lower front trim. Secure to the front of the sides and the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Add a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the shelf supports and the shelf.

Step 5

 Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the divider. Position in the cabinet as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top and back.

Cut the piece for the cubby shelf. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the wine caddy (the X). Cut a 49° bevel in the top edge, and a 40° bevel in the bottom. Cut the notch using a jigsaw. Slide the pieces together making sure the bevels face as shown in the drawing, and insert the caddy into the cubby. The caddy will rest inside the opening and can be secured in place using 1-1/4” brad nails, if desired.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The drawer front will overlap on the right side (if facing the front) by 7/8” to overlap the divider. 

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the door caddy. Drill pocket holes in the back edge of the bottom as well as one end of the sides. The pocket holes will allow the door caddy to be secured to the door. Assemble the caddies using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the doors. Position the door caddies on each door noting that there will be a right and a left. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 10

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap at the sides, top, and bottom of the doors, as well as in between them. Install the magnetic catches according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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