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Mar
12
2014
Project Details

I have been wanting a bar cart for a long time, haven't you? If I can't have my vintage dream, which it seems I can't, a handbuilt beauty is perhaps an even better option since I get the satisfaction of making it! The cart can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal if you wish, and it would be so dreamy in brass, don't you think? Xx... Rayan

Sponsored // Psst... You can check out your #KleenexStyle by clicking here and discover the perfect design to suit your decor. No more hiding those boxes during this up coming sinus season... can I get a yahoo for that?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 8 – ¾” square dowels at 3’ (or pieces ripped from a 1x board)
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’ (or 2 – 2x4 ripped in half)
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 27-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 30-1/2” – Legs
  • 1 – 2x2 at 23” - Handle
  • 4 – 2x2 at 20” – Leg Frames
  • 2 – 2x2 at 34-1/2” - Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 34-1/2” – Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” square dowels at 20” - Rails
  • 2 – ¾” square dowels at 34-1/2” - Rails
  • 28 – ¾” square dowels at 5” - Spindles
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well the top edge of the longer legs. Do not drill pocket holes in the handle piece. Attach the frame pieces to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the handle to the longer legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the end frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each piece. Secure to the stretchers and frame pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers and frame pieces.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the rails. Drill one pocket hole in each end of the longer pieces. Mark the position for the spindles on the longer pieces, then secure the spindles using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Mark the position for the spindles on the stretchers and frame pieces. Secure the rail assemblies to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Align the spindles with the marks on the stretchers and frame pieces, then secure them using toenailed 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5

Attach the casters to the bottom of the legs according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial on installing casters, click here.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

//Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. //Post contains affiliate links

Mar
10
2014
Project Details

This console table doubles as a bookshelf and storage unit. Build two units and wrap a corner of your sofa, or build several and line the whole back side of that baby! I am currently using two expedit shelving units on the backside of my floating sofa, so for those of you who don't have a wall to place your sofa along, this is a fabulous solution.  With a modern shape and a low profile, it serves double duty by giving you a storage solution and providing you with a bit of a room divider at the same time. Xx... Rayan 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • ½ sht. ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List

All pieces are cut from ¾” plywood and the grain should run parallel to the longest side except as noted–

  • 3 – 10” x 38” - Shelves
  • 1 – 6-1/2” x 9-1/4” – Upper Divider
  • 1 – 9-1/4” x 12-1/4” – Lower Divider * Grain will run parallel with 9-1/4” side
  • 1 – 6-1/2” x 29-3/4” – Upper Back
  • 1 – 12-1/4” x 29-3/4” – Lower Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut all pieces as indicated. It would be a good idea to sand each piece after cutting and drilling the pocket holes because sanding after assembly may be difficult! Also, if you choose to use edge banding on the plywood edges, this would be a good time to apply that to all edges that will be exposed. If you prefer to leave them exposed, sand really well. Using the Kreg jig set for ¾” material and the Lower Divider, drill pocket holes along the 9-1/4” edges. Attach with 1-1/4” screws to one of the Shelves (this will be the lower shelf), 8-1/4” in from the edge. Make sure the front of the divider is even with the front of the lower shelf. This will allow for attaching the back.

Step 2

Drill pocket holes in the Lower Back piece on each of the 29-3/4” edges. Attach to the lower shelf and to the divider with the pocket holes facing out. See drawing.

Step 3

Lay the middle shelf on this assembly and attach with 1-1/4” screws through the pocket holes on the back and divider pieces.

Step 4

Drill pocket holes in the 9-1/4” edges of the Upper Divider and attach the divider 8-1/4” in from the edge of the middle shelf. Make sure the upper divider is placed opposite of the lower divider. See drawings

Step 5

Drill pocket holes in the Upper Back along the 29-3/4” edges. Fasten to upper divider and middle shelf with 1-1/4” screws.

Step 6

Lay the last 10” x 38” piece on top of the assembly and attach with 1-1/4” screws through the remaining pocket holes in the upper back. Finish as desired.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of The Design Confidential. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.  // Post contains affiliate links

Mar
05
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Children's Two Tone Chair
Project Details

On Monday we posted plans for a Children's Two Tone Play Table, and today the most adorable chair to go along side it. I will definitely be building this set, I just can't quite decide who it will be for... the bird or the bug. Probably my older boy, but I'm not entirely sure of my vision for his space just yet. I can finally see the space coming together for the bird, thank gawd, and I can see all of the various pieces I would love to have in his room and it's going to be amazing! Unfortunately he would probably need to move into the master bedroom to make it all of it work so I will be downsizing my 'vision' substantially. Once a dreamer, always a dreamer... Xx... Rayan

Pssst.... I will be starting a fun new project with you all very shortly (hopefully this afternoon, but you know how it goes around here) and I think you are going to like it a lot... stay tuned for the announcement and get your typing fingers ready my friends. That is all I will say for now! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Children's Two Tone Chair
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 - 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 15-7/8” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 11-7/16” – Leg Frames (Top)
  • 2 – 2x2 at 9-5/16” – Leg Frames (Stretchers)
  • 2 – 2x2 at 11-1/2” – Upper Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x2 (ripped to 1-1/4” wide) at 11-1/2” – Lower Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7 x 11-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 12” - Seat
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the leg frames. Cut 7° angles in each piece as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top end of the leg pieces, as well as each end of the stretcher pieces. Attach the legs to the top piece using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws, then attach the stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Chair Legs for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Children's Two Tone Chair
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower stretchers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the leg assemblies as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The lower stretcher is ripped to 1-1/4” wide so that it can be positioned on the leg perpendicular to the floor and not stick out past the angle of the legs.

Chair Upper Stretchers for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Children's Two Tone Chair
Chair Lower Stretcher for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Children's Two Tone Chair
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back. Mark the position for the slots (the center of the holes will be spaced at 5-1/2” on center) and cut a hole at each mark using a 1-1/2” paddle bit or hole saw. Draw a line (vertically) to connect each pair of holes, then cut along the lines with a jigsaw. Cut a 5° bevel in the lower edge of the back piece. This makes the back rest on the seat at an angle making for a comfortable seat!

Chair Back for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Children's Two Tone Chair
Step 4

Cut the piece for the seat. Secure the back to the back edge of the seat using countersunk 1-1/2” screws. Position the seat on the frame so that approximately ¾” overlaps the front stretcher and the edge of the back is flush with the back of the arms. Secure in place using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the arms into the back. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the seat to the stretchers.

Chair Seat Back Details for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Children's Two Tone Chair
Chair Seat Back for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Children's Two Tone Chair
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Kiddos 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post Contains Affiliate Links

Mar
03
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Children's Two Tone Play Table
Project Details

I hope you all had an amazing weekend! I had so many plans to do so many things, and while I didn't do a single one of them, I did manage to get in some good family time and fun so I suppose that makes it all worthwhile! You know worthwhile is at the top of my list going forward so I fairly pleased with myself. Though next weekend I plan to build... I hope. And this fabulous table and the matching chair (plans to come shortly) and on my list for the Bird's major room overhaul. I say overhaul as though it's undergoing a renovation or redecoration, but in truth it's actually only being decorated for the first time since we moved almost a year ago. Eek, how's that for slow decorating.. Might be a new record. Now, let's get back to the important stuff, shall we?

I adore things in miniature, don't you? While this isn't precisely miniature, it is small enough to be fit for your littles, which naturally makes it adorable. I kind of love the fact that it has what appears to be handles... Seems like an easy way to relocate this baby for a fun afternoon of play or snack time. Or perhaps for removing the fun afternoon of play after your child proceeds to throw his delicious snack time at his brothers face and dance on the furniture in celebration... oh, that doesn't happen to you? Ya me either... Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Children's Two Tone Play Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 - 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 25-11/16” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 14-7/16” – Leg Frames
  • 2 – 1x3 at 12-13/16” – Leg Frames
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/2” x 46-3/4” - Top
  • 2 – 1x3 at 45-1/4” - Aprons
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the leg frames. Cut 7° angles in each piece as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top end of the leg pieces. Attach the legs to the top piece using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x3 pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws with the inside face of the 1x3 flush with the inside face of the legs.

To cut the notch for the top, set the rip fence on a table saw 4” from the blade and the blade set at a depth of ¾”. Make a pass through the saw with each leg assembly (the top of the leg assembly will run along the rip fence). Reset the fence at 4-1/4” and make another pass with each assembly. Reset the fence at 4-1/2” and make a pass, then 4-3/4” and make a pass. This will cut the notches as needed. Remove any remaining material in the notches with a sharp chisel.

Table Legs for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Children's Two Tone Play Table
Step 2

Cut the piece for the top and apply edge banding. Pre-drill the holes for the countersunk screws where the notches are located to secure the top. Secure the top in the notches using glue and 2-1/2” screws.

Table Top for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Children's Two Tone Play Table
Step 3

Cut the 1x3 pieces for the aprons and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the aprons to the legs under the table top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top corner of the aprons will be flush with the leg – in other words, the apron will remain perpendicular to the floor and not follow the angle of the legs.

Table Aprons for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Children's Two Tone Play Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post Contains Affiliate Links

Feb
24
2014
Project Details

Such a handsome girl isn't she! Nice and substantial, a relatively easy build as far as media cabinets and sideboards go. The legs can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal so you don't have to learn how to weld to make this beauty! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
  • Scrap of 2x2 at 2’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 22-3/4” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 69-1/2” - Bottom
  • 5 – 2x2 at 4” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 14-3/4” - Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 22” - Dividers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 22-5/8” - End Stretchers
  • 4 – 1x2 at 22-3/4” – Center Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 22-5/8” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-3/4” x 69-1/2” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 71” - Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 22-5/8” x 23-11/16” - Doors
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20-1/4” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 8 – 1x4 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 8 – 1x4 at 21-3/4” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/8” x 23-3/8” – Center Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 23-3/8” – Top & Bottom Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom. Secure the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front edges of the sides and bottom will be flush. The bottom will be ¾” shorter than the sides. This will allow for the back.

Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 pieces then secure them to the 2x2 legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the leg assemblies to the bottom sides using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws into the top of the 2x2 legs. The leg assemblies will overlap the sides and bottom by ¾” at each end. This will allow for the back and the doors.

Position the remaining 2x2 leg at the center of the bottom. Secure using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges. Treat the pieces as a left and right so that the pocket holes will be hidden in the drawer bank. Position the pieces as indicated in the drawing then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as the back edge. Secure to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front edge of the shelf will be flush with the front edge of the sides and dividers. 

Step 6

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the shorter edges. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the shelves into the back using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the back to the bottom and dividers.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. The front will overhang by ¾”. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides, back, dividers, and stretchers.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the doors so that the sides and bottom are flush with the cabinet. The top edge will be 1/8” to allow for the door to open and close without rubbing on the top.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them flush with the front of the dividers. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 10

Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Starting with the bottom drawer front, position it so that the lower edge is flush with the bottom, and there is a 1/8” between the doors and the sides of the drawer front, then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Continue installing the remaining fronts with a 1/8” gap between them. Install the drawer pulls. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post may contain affiliate links

Feb
21
2014
Project Details

You know I love an interesting dining table, as evidenced by my most recent build here. I love the intricate seeming nature of this table's base, especially since I know it isn't all that difficult to construct, but would certainly seem so... Xx... Rayan

 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 23 – 1x2 at 8’ (it may be more economical to purchase 8 – 1x6 at 8’ and rip strips on the table saw to 1-1/2” wide)
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 18 – 1x2 at 48” – Base Frame
  • 18 – 1x2 at 14-1/4” – Base Frame
  • 6 – 1x2 at 29-1/4” – Base Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 84” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 38-1/4” – Top Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 41-1/4” x 84” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1x2 pieces. Assemble the frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Draw a ¾” radius at each corner and cut out with a jigsaw. Sand the edges thoroughly.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs.  It will be easier to mark the position for all of the frames on the back side of each leg at the spacing shown (adding for the thickness of the frames), and pre-drill the holes for the screws. Working on a flat surface, attach the legs to the first frame with the bottoms flush, using glue and countersunk 2” screws.  Orient the pocket holes in the frame so they face down. Position the next frame, then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws. Continue “layering” the frames. The last frame should be flush with the top of the legs.

Another tip – cut spacers equal to the distance between the frames to help hold the frames in place as they are being secured.

Step 3

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the top frame. Cut a 45° bevel in one long edge of each piece, as well as each end of the longer 1x2 pieces. Secure to the bottom edge of the plywood piece for the top using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The bevels will face out.

Step 4

With the bottom face of the top facing up, flip the base over and position it on the top. The base will sit 18” in from each side and 12” in from each long edge. Secure using 1-1/2” screws through the upper frame in the base into the top

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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