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Jan
16
2014
Project Details

Oh how I love a good solid buffet, don't you? And by buffet I do not mean the kind you eat at... As a gluten free, dairy free, only thing left is rabbit food subscribing gal, they simply don't do much for me aside from the salad bar. And no, I don't happen to be g&d free by choice, womp womp. My second favorite food is cereal and I just can't have it anymore. Insert sad face here. Anyhow, I digress... I love a good sturdy hunk of wood, because I feel like they are so multipurpose, you know?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$150-$200

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 4 sheets of  ¾” plywood or MDF
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 3 sets of concealed hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 32-3/4” – Front Corners
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 32-3/4” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 75-1/2” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 75-1/2” – Bottom Front
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 2” x 16-1/4” – Bottom Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 30” x 75-1/2” - Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 22” - Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 75-1/2” – Drawer Shelf
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 25-1/4” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 23-1/2” – Center Shelf
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 17-1/2” – Upper Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 77” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 21” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/8” x 23-11/16” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/8” x 24-1/8” – Center Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 21-3/4” x 23-11/16” – Doors
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-3/4” x 24-1/8” – Center Door
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the front corners and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along one long edge of the side pieces. Secure the front corners to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the bottom and the bottom front. The bottom front piece will be secured to the bottom piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The lower edges of each piece will be flush with each other.

Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends of the bottom piece. Position the bottom piece 2” up from the bottom of the sides and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the bottom supports and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece. (Pocket holes are not shown in the drawing.) Secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back edge of the supports will be flush with the back edge of the bottom.

Step 3

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the bottom edge. Secure to the sides and bottom of the cabinets using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges, as well as the back edge. Secure to the bottom and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the piece for the drawer shelf and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Secure to the sides, back, and dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as the back edge of each shelf. Position inside the cabinet as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges – note that at least one piece will have the pocket holes opposite the other pieces so there will be a right and a left. These pieces will act as the drawer slide spacers. Install the spacers first, using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws (add a few brad nails through the front corner into the spacers), then install the dividers. 

Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, sides, back, and front corners. 

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Installthe drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions . 

 

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. It may be easier to install the outer drawer fronts first, then install the center drawer front last. The bottom of the drawer fronts will be flush with the bottom of the drawer shelf

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors as well as in between them.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
13
2014
Project Details

This set of plans is for a Queen sized rustic slatted bed and I'm crushing on this baby a ton! For a gal who adores a bit of modern and vintage, I can still adore a bit of rustic style as well, and this bed is fab! I can't wait to see how you customize this beauty... Happy Building my friends! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 43 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 2’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 9 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x8 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 5 – 2x4 at 17-1/2” – Footboard Frame & Stabilizers
  • 4 – 2x4 at 68” – Footboard & Headboard Frame
  • 23 – 1x3 at 65” – Footboard & Headboard Slats
  • 2 – 2x4 at 40” – Headboard Frame & Stabilizers
  • 2 – 2x8 (ripped to 7-1/4” wide) at 82” – Side Rails
  • 4 – 2x4 at 82” – Side Rails
  • 1 – 2x2 at 82” – Center Support
  • 2 – 2x2 ay 10-1/4” – Center Support Legs
  • 20 – 1x3 at 63” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the footboard frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the footboard slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Assemble as one panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Insert into the frame with the outside face flush with the outside face of the frame, then secure using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the stabilizers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Attach to the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the stabilizers will be flush with the inside face of the frame.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the headboard frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the headboard slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Assemble as one panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Insert into the frame with the outside face flush with the outside face of the frame, then secure using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the stabilizers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Attach to the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the stabilizers will be flush with the inside face of the frame.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side rails. Drill pocket holes in each long edge of the 2x8 pieces. Attach the 2x4 pieces using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the 2x8 will be located 1” in from the inside face of the 2x4 pieces. Install the bed rail hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the center support and legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the support as well as one end of each leg. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the support to the center of the headboard and footboard using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Do not use glue!

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the slats. Position the slats on the lower 2x4 of the side rails and secure using countersunk 1-1/2” screws. Do not use glue!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
10
2014
Project Details

I love the modern coolness of this piece! A great way to store books or other items in style! Perfect in a kids room or an office space setting. Maybe even as a chic accent piece in a main living area where you aren't ready or able to commit to a full bookcase but still have books to store! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
  • 1” Brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 25-1/2” x 31” – X
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 7” x 31” – Side 1
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 7” x 16-1/2” – Side 2
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 7” x 8-1/2” – Sides 3
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 7” x 7-1/2” – End 1
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 7” x 8” – End 2
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Xs. To draw the curves, use a soup can as a guide then cut out with a jigsaw.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for each of the side pieces. Secure each piece as shown using glue and 1” brad nails making sure the edges are flush as shown.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the ends. Secure each piece as shown using glue and 1” brad nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
08
2014
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build an Oslo 3 Drawer Dresser. I'm going through a phase in my current design sensibilities that longs for a simplified style of furniture and decor, with a bit of a nod to the past and our design roots as a global society. I am loving pieces like this dresser that aren't fussy and will still stand the test of time with clean lines and minimal detailing. It helps that this fabulous combo also packs a light punch to the old wallet and remains both relatively easy to build and low in cost. Are you craving a more streamlined lifestyle right now too?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 3 – 1x10 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x10 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 34-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Bottom Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 36” – Bottom Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 4-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 34-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 34-1/4” x 34-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 34-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 36” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 32” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x10 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x10 at 33-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 36” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the bottom panel and the bottom frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket hole in each end of the shorter 1x2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom panel. Assemble the panel as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Insert the panel then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the panel will be flush with the top edge of the frame.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Position them on the underside of the bottom snug against the frame in each corner. Secure using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the bottom into the legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges. Secure to the bottom frame locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the bottom frame.

Step 4

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

 Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overhang by ½”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides and back.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Starting with the bottom drawer front, position it with a 1/8” gap at the bottom then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Position the next drawer fronts in the same manner with a 1/8” gap between them and secure the same way. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
06
2014
Project Details

I'm excited to post our very first new plan on the new site! Squeal! I hope you have had a chance to visit the new digs and check things out. They are a bit different, but definitely better! While we enjoy our new surroundings, a fabulous chair might be a good addition to the pack and the perfect partner for some of our fabulous tables, like the Harcombe Table we posted a few days ago.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 2’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x4 at 34” – Back Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 17-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 15-1/2” – Front & Back Aprons
  • 1 – 1x6 at 15-1/2” – Upper Back
  • 2 – 1x3 at 18” - Sides
  • 1 – 1x3 at 19” – Seat Support
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 21” – Seat
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the 2x4 pieces for the back legs. Draw the legs on the board according to the dimensions shown. Cut the legs out using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the upper back and the back apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Position the pieces as shown (the upper back piece will follow the angle of the legs) and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the apron ¼” back from the outside face of the legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front legs and front apron. Cut the taper in the legs using a jigsaw, a bandsaw, or a tapering jig on the table saw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron piece, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the apron ¼” back from the outside face of the legs.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the pieces ¼” back from the outside face of the legs.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat support and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the front and back aprons as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw. Secure the seat to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
02
2014
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Juliette Twin Bed. Plans by special reader request and modified for ease of building for all of you! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 7 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws Bed hardware ( like this )
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 2x2 at 15-3/4” – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – 1x8 at 39” – Footboard
  • 2 – 2x2 at 38-1/4” – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – 1x3 at 39” – Headboard
  • 5 – 1x8 at 39” – Headboard
  • 2 – 1x6 at 75” – Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 72-3/4” – Slat Support
  • 14 – 1x3 at 40-1/2” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the footboard and the legs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x8 piece. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the footboard will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the headboard and legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of three of the 1x8 pieces, each end of the 1x3 piece, and one long end of four of the 1x8 pieces. Assemble the 1x8 pieces to create a large panel positioning the two pieces without pocket holes at each end at the top (the ends will be cut away). To create the decorative arc at the top, use a large sheet of kraft paper measuring 15” wide x 39” long and fold it in half lengthwise. Start at the top of the fold and draw a curvy line to the opposite corner (here is where you can get really creative!!). Use scissors to cut along the line then unfold the paper. This will be the template for the upper portion of the headboard. Position the paper on the headboard panel and trace around the curve with a pencil. Cut out with a jigsaw.

Attach the panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the 1x3 in the same manner as shown.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and the slat supports. Position the slat supports so that the bottom is flush with the bottom of the sides, and locate the pieces approximately 1-1/4” from each edge. Secure the supports to the sides using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Install the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the slats. Position them on the supports, evenly spaced, and fasten in place using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Do not use glue!!

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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