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Dec
29
2013
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Harcombe Table. I'm on the hunt for a new kitchen table for my kitchen nook and I am wanting to build something a tad different. This might be a fabulous choice in that it can easily be a style that is lasting depending on the wood type and finish you choose, yet it is unique enough to not be boring after 5 minutes. I can envision this beauty in a reclaimed wood look or perhaps a bright shiny modern white... It's just so hard to pull the trigger and decide on what to make, there are so many options... eek Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 14 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 3 full sheets of ¼” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x2 at 84” – Top Frame
  • 6 – 1x2 at 40-1/2” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 2x2 at 40-1/2” – Top Frame
  • 8 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Top Frame
  • 3 – 1x2 at 11” – Top Frame
  • 7 – 1x2 at 10-3/4” – Top Frame
  • 4 – 1x2 at 28-1/2” – Leg Frames
  • 4 – 1x2 at 40-1/2” – Leg Frames
  • 8 – 1x2 at 27” – Leg Frames
  • 4 – 1x2 at 4” – Leg Frames
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8” – Leg Frames
  • 4 – ¼” plywood at 28-1/2” x 40-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – ¼” plywood at 11-3/4” x 42” - Underside
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 42” x 56-1/2” - Underside
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 42” x 84” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the top frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the two 84” pieces and the two 2x2 pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The 2x2 pieces will be secured using countersunk 2” screws from the outside into the end of each piece. The smaller pieces will be staggered to offer additional support.

Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the leg frames and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces except for the 40-1/2” pieces. Drill pocket holes in one end only of each of the 4” and 8” pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The horizontal 27” pieces in the center will be added last to allow room to drive the pocket hole screws in the 4” and 8” pieces. Secure the end of the 4” and 8” ends (opposite the pocket hole screws) using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

The legs frames will be secured to the 2x2 pieces in the top frame using glue and several 2” screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the leg covering from the ¼” plywood. Secure to each side of each leg frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4

 Cut the plywood pieces for the underside of the table top. Secure to the underside of the top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5

 Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Fill any gaps in the edges of the top and legs using wood filler or Dry Dex.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
27
2013
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: Complete Instructions on How to Build a Naldi Stemware Rack. The perfect companion piece for your bar cart. Hang nearby for easy, yet gorgeously displayed access to your stemware! Now you can use the bar cart for bottle service and get those glasses up and out of the way for a convenient serving and cocktail making station. This build is both easy and budget friendly but best of all it solves the pesky problem of how you store your wine and champagne glasses. No more '1 up - 1 down' storing of your stemware to make the most of your space...

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • ¾” holesaw or paddle bit
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 4 Eye bolt
  • Chain
  • Ceiling hook for hanging the rack
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x2 at 25” – Rack Frame
  • 3– 1x2 at 10” – Rack Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 10-1/4” – Rack Frame
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the rack. Using the holesaw or paddle bit, mark the position for the holes in each piece. Use a jigsaw to cut straight lines from the holes to the edges of each board for the notches.

Step 2

 Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter boards Locate the pocket holes so the screws will not interfere with the notches. Some of the pocket holes may start in the notches themselves (as with the outer side pieces) but this will not matter as the pocket holes will not be seen.

Step 3

 Insert the eye bolts into each top corner of the frame, then attach the chain. The length of the chain will depend on how low the frame hangs down. Use all safety precautions when hanging the rack from a hook!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
20
2013
Project Details

We have such a special treat today my lovely fellow builders! I've teamed up with one of my favorite sweet friends, Lindsay of Makely Home to bring you a gorgeous set of plans! She has worked so very hard on this beauty so I hope you will head over to visit her and gush over her build! She will be sharing more beautiful images and details there! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Tools
Lumber
  • 1 1/2 sheets of ¾” plywood (2nd sheet - only need 2'x2' area)
  • 1 sheet 1/2" plywood
  • 1 sheet 1/4" plywood (or if your store will sell you a 1/2 sheet at 2'x8' then awesome)
  • 1- 2x6 at 6'
  • 2- 2x3 at 8' (1 front/back + 2 side per board)
  • 4- 1x6 at 8' (3 at 26  1/2 + 1 at 16 1/4 per board for 2 boards, then 5 at 16 1/4 per board)
  • 2- 1x8 at 8' (3 per board)
Materials
Cut List
  • 4- 2x4 at 7 3/4" legs
  • 4- 2x3 at 15 3/4" frame rails
  • 2- 2x3 at 51 1/4" frame front/back
  • 6- 1x6 at 26 1/2" drawer backs
  • 12- 1x6 at 16 1/4" drawer sides
  • 6- 1x8 at 27 11/16" drawer front
  • 2- 3/4" ply at 20"x22 1/4" sides
  • 2- 3/4" ply at 20"x57 1/4" top/bottom
  • 1- 3/4" ply at 19 1/4" x 22 1/4" center
  • 6- 1/2" ply at 26 1/2" x 5 3/4" drawer faces
  • 6-1/2" ply at 26 1/2" x 17" drawer bottoms
  • 1- 1/4" ply at 57 1/4" x 22 1/4" back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for age

Step 1

Use a 2x6 to cut your leg pieces. Create your guidelines as seen in the second image below and cut as indicated. Use a circular saw if possible.

Step 2

Build your frame. Use 2 ½” pocket hole screws and glue to connect. The outside rails will sit flush against the leg pieces. The inner rails should sit approximately 16 ½” apart, but this is not a crucial dimension, just space them as evenly as possible.

Step 3

Build your Box. The side panels will sit inside the top and bottom panels and they will sit flush on the front, yet set in ¼” on the back side. This will allow for the back panel later. The bottom of your box will overhang your base by ¾” all the way around. Use 1 ¼” pocket hole screws with your pocket hole jig set for ¾” material and your pocket holes along the top and bottom of the panel (on the inside), and glue to fasten.

Step 4

Fasten the Center Panel in Place. The center panel will sit back ¾” on the front side and ¼” on the back side and should be centered as precisely as possible between the side panels. Use 1 ¼” pocket hole screws with your pocket hole jig set for ¾” material and your pocket holes along the top and bottom of the panel, and glue to fasten. 

Step 5

Build Your Drawer Boxes. You will make of these 6 exactly the same way. In step 9, your drawer fronts will differ in their placement for 3 of your 6 drawers, but in this step and the next they are identical. The bottom will sit flush with the outside perimeter of the sides and back and can be secured using your brad nails and glue or 1” wood screws with a countersink bit to predrill and glue.  

Step 6

Secure your Drawer Faces and Attach Drawer Glides. The faces will be cut to size from your ½” plywood, and will sit flush with the drawer box on the top, sides, and bottom. The drawer glide should sit 3” up from the bottom of the box and 1” back from the front edge once the face has been attached.

Step 7

Cut and Notch Your Drawer Fronts. Cut your fronts to size and then notch out the handle area using a jig saw. Do not attach Drawer Fronts to the drawers themselves yet.

Step 8

Attach Drawer Glides to Side and Center Panels. Attach Glides in locations indicated below.  Work from the back for your measurements so they all end up at the same location (the center panel is set back farther than the sides from the front edge, so the dimensions are different from that side).  There will be 1/8” spacing around all edges of each drawer front and the placement of the drawer glides takes this into consideration.  For the bottom and center pair of drawer glides, measurements are from the bottom and back edge of the side and center panels and line up with the bottom edge of the drawer glides. For the top pair 2 of drawer glides the measurements are either from the top and back edge of the side and center panels or the bottom and back edges if you prefer, BUT they should still align with the bottom edge of the drawer glide.  All glides should sit 2 ¼” in from the back edge.  

**Also noted on the diagram below is the relative space each drawer will occupy including the 1/8” spacing on the bottom for each drawer, except for the top drawers which will have an additional 1/8” spacing on the top as well.

Step 9

Insert Drawers. Line up the drawer glides and insert drawers in their respective locations. In the diagram below, the drawer front is attached, however you will actually attach the drawer front once the drawers have been inserted into the unit so you can adjust for any amount you might be ‘off’.

Step 10

Attach Drawer Fronts. You can do this after you have your drawers installed so that you can adjust for any slight discrepancies, but the location of the drawer fronts should be approximately what you see shown below in the diagram. There will be 1/8” spacing between the outside edge of the drawer front and the inside edge of the side panels on your box. There will also be 1/8” spacing above and below each drawer. There will be 1/8” spacing between the left and right drawers as well, but since they divide the space remaining, the overhang on the inside edges of your drawer fronts will be different than on the outside edges so I recommend using the outside edges as your guide. The Fronts will sit flush with the drawer on the bottom edge, will overhang 1 ½” on the top and 3/8” on the outside edge. The drawer shown below in the diagram would be a drawer for left hand side of your unit if you are facing your unit. These measurements for the overhang will be on the other side for the right hand side drawers. Attach drawer fronts with 1 1/4” brad nails and glue, where the front meets the sides of your drawer box (otherwise the nails will stick out the back of the drawer face).

Step 11

Attach the Back Panel. Use 1 ¼” brad nails and glue to attach your back to the side and center panels. 

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
15
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build an Up Against the Wall Paper Holder . Will work with the rolls of paper from Land of Nod, Ikea and any other standard sized rolls. Another fabulous and budget friendly project in our Handmade Holiday Decor and Gifts series and one that should get a lot of use regardless of age and is versatile enough to attach to the wall or can be secured to a desk top for hours of artistic play! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x6 at 4’
  • 1 – ¾” dowel at 3’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 1 – 1x6 (ripped to 5” wide) at 20” – Back
  • 2 – 1x6 (ripped to 3-1/2” wide) at 3-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – 1x6 (ripped to 4-1/4” wide) at 20” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” dowel at 24”
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of the piece.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the ends. Use a 1” paddle bit or hole saw to bore a hole in each piece. Cut the radius using a jigsaw. Secure the side pieces to the back using countersunk 2” screws from the back.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the shelf. Secure to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the dowel rod. For extra security, use a pair of wood balls or wood candle cups (from a craft or hobby store) to cover the ends of the dowel so it doesn’t slip out.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Kiddos 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
12
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kids Four Story Wood Shelf. Both fun and functional, this gift would be perfect to wake up to Christmas morning! A little bit of storage, and little bit of imagination play and a whole lot of bang for your buck. Another fabulous and budget friendly project in our Handmade Holiday Decor and Gifts series and one that should get a lot of use regardless of age. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 Half sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1” Brad nails
  • Edge Banding, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 5” x 15” – Bottom & Top
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 5” x 18” – Sides
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 5” x 14” – Shelves
  • 3 – ½” plywood at 2-1/2” x 5” – Shelf 1 Dividers
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 5” x 5” – Shelf 2 Dividers
  • 3 – ½” plywood at 3-1/2” x 5” – Shelf 3 Dividers
  • 3 – ½” plywood at 3” x 5” – Shelf 4 Dividers
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 5” x 9” – Peak
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 4-3/8” x 13-3/16” – Peak Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom edge of the side pieces. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Each shelf and divider set will be installed individually.

Start with shelf 1. Position as shown using glue and 1” brad nails through the sides.

Drill pocket holes of the lower edge of each divider. Position the dividers for shelf 1 then secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Install shelf 2. Secure the shelf 1 dividers by driving a few 1” brad nails through shelf 2 into the top of the dividers.

Install the shelf 2 dividers using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Install shelf 3 and secure the shelf 2 dividers. Install the shelf 3 dividers using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Install shelf 4 and secure the shelf 3 dividers. Install the shelf 4 dividers using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
09
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Large Hutch. There are only a few pieces left before we finish out the Original Office Collection, and you guys will be able to customize till you drop! I can't wait to see how you mix and match to arrange your own pieces! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 full sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood edges, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Feet
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 43-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 73-1/2” - Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 40-3/4” x 73-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 73-1/2” – Long Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 28-3/4” - Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 36-3/8” – Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 36-3/8” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 77” – Top
  • 2 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Side Trim
  • 1 – 1x2 at 76-1/2” – Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

 Cut the pieces for the sides and feet. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each side. Attach the feet to the bottom using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The side pieces will be positioned at the center of each foot.

Step 1
Step 2

 

 Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the piece for the long shelf and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 4
Step 5

 

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

 Cut the piece for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretcher will be flush with the outside edge of the sides.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

 

 Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overlap by 1”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the sides and back.

Step 7
Step 8

 

Cut the pieces for the trim. Rout a decorative edge along one long edge of each piece if desired. Position the sides first and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front in the same manner. A mitered corner will be used if routing a decorative edge. Adjust the length of the sides accordingly. Store-bought trim can also be used.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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