• Essentials from Target for The Design Confidential Feeling Fall // Essentials for Creating a Cozy Mantel
  • Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
  • Family Room Sneak Peek / The Design Confidential in Collaboration with Joss and Main for a Curators Collection Sale Story Interview
  • Hammock and Lounging Area for the Home Depot Style Challenge Outdoor Games Edition
  • DIY Faux Watercolor Wallpaper Wall Treatment with Paint
  • Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Tri Trestle Table
  • DIY Home Decor // How To Make Your Own Removable Wallpaper

Browse all Free Woodworking Plans in the 2x2 Collection

Nov
22
2011
Project Image
Project Details

A very simple build, and a wonderful new media collection for us to begin, this piece will look smashing aside the Shelf Unit (plans for that found here)!

The Deets

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Safety Gear

Tape Measure

Drill

Saw - for cutting plywood

Kreg Jig

Lumber

1 Sheet of 3/4" Ply

3 - 2x2 at 8'

1 - 1x2 at 8'

Materials

1 1/4" Wood Screws

1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws

2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws

2 Overlay Hinges

1 Door Handle - optional and inspiration piece does not have one.

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 - 2x2 at 3 1/2" Legs

8 - 2x2 at 19" Front and Back Rails

2 - 2x2 at 17" Lower Side Rails

6 - 2x2 at 14" Upper Side Rails

2 - 1x2 at 20 1/2" Front/Back Ledges

2 - 1x2 at 15 1/2" Side Ledges

2 - 3/4" ply at 19 1/4" x 26" Sides

1 - 3/4" ply at 20 1/2" x 26" Back

2 - 3/4" ply at 19 1/4" x 22" Top and Bottom Cabinet

1 - 3/4" ply at 22" x 27 1/2" Door

3 - 3/4" ply at 14" x 19" Shelves

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build the Bottom Leg Unit: Fasten the Rails to the Legs using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 1
Step 2

Add the Ledges: Using 1 1/4" Screws and glue attach the ledges as shown below. They will be set in 3/4" from the outside edge and should overhang the inside edge by 3/4".

Step 2
Step 3

Construct the Cabinet Box: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the back to the sides and bottom, and the sides to the bottom.

You will need to create your pocket holes along the top edges of the back and sides as well so you can attach to the Upper Unit in a later step.

Once you have constructed the 4 sided box, attach it to the ledge by securing with your 1 1/4" screws and glue from underneath on the ledge overhang.

Step 3
Step 4

Construct the Top Unit with Side Panels: Using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue attach the Side Rails to the Upper Legs. Once you have the side Rails connected, attach the Cabinet Top to the Upper Legs leaving a 2 1/4" overhang on the front side and allowing the Cabinet Top to sit flush with the Side Panels on the sides and back. To attach the Cabinet Top you can use either 1 1/4" wood screws and glue or you can attach the Side Panels to the Top using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Do not attach this to the Cabinet Box yet. Wait until after you secure the shelves and front and back rails.

Step 4
Step 5

Add the Shelves: Fasten the Shelf to the Front and Back Rails using your Kreg Jig Set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. Then attach the Shelf Units to the Side Panels using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.

Once you attach these, you can flip the Upper Unit over and attach it to the Cabinet Box using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock with pocket holes placed in the Cabinet Box Back and Sides, and your 1 1/4" pocket holes screws and glue.

Step 5
Step 6

Hang your Door: you can use any hinge you like and feel comfortable with that is for an overlay door.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Nov
19
2011
Project Image
Project Details

Not to be mistaken for the Parsons Low Bookshelf, this shelf unit is the first in a series for the West Elm Inspired Parsons Media Collection! Fun right? Yahoo.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Safety Gear Tape Measure Drill Kreg Jig Saw - you will need either a Table Saw, Circular Saw, or Jig Saw to cut the plywood shelves.

Lumber

1 sheet of 3/4" ply 4 - 2x2 at 8'

Materials

2 1/2" pocket hole screws Wood Glue Wood Filler Sanding Supplies Finishing Supplies

Cut List
  • 4 - 2x2 at 24" legs
  • 6 - 2x2 at 17" side rails
  • 6 - 2x2 at 39" front and back rails
  • 3 - 3/4" ply at 17" x 39" shelves
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Create the Side Panels: Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 1
Step 2

Construct the Shelves: You will cut your shelf panels to size and create your pocket holes all around the edges of each panel to attach them to the rails. You will use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock. Once you have created all of your pocket holes for the shelves, you will create the pocket holes in the rails using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock. Once all of your pocket holes have been created you will attach and your front and back rails to each shelf panel using your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. Then you will attach each shelf panel as shown below to your legs and rails. You will use your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to attach the rails to the legs and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to attach the shelves to the side rails.

Step 2
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Aug
13
2011
Project Image
Project Details

This piece speaks for itself but just in case it doesn't...it's a modification of the popular 2x2 One-Armed Daybed.  This plan allows for a standard Full Sized Mattress and I have to say, I am really liking the way it looks!  I was not sure how it would turn out aesthetically until I actually sat down to modify the plans...and I am smitten with it! This Daybed will fit a Standard Full Sized Mattress of 54x75", so unless you desire to...no special sewing is required.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • Saw - something to make straight cuts, nothing fancy
  • **Kreg Jig - optional but will allow for easier attachments and a more professional appearance, not to mention it makes the building process, quite a bit easier. I recommend this...
Lumber
  • 2 - 2x3 at 6'
  • 1 - 2x3 at 8'
  • 4 - 2x3 at 10'
  • 1 - 2x2 at 6'
  • 5 - 1x3 at 10'
  • 1 - 1x3 at 6'
  • 2 - 1x2 at 8'
Materials
  • ** Kreg Owners - 2 1/2" PHScrews
  • 3" Screws
  • 2 1/2" Screws
  • 1 1/4" Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 - 2x3 at 6 1/2" (Right hand Legs)
  • 3 - 2x3 at 25 1/2" (Left hand Legs and Center Leg)
  • 2 - 2x3 at 75 1/2" (Front and Back Rails)
  • 4 - 2x3 at 50" (Stretchers)
  • 2 - 1x2 at 75 1/2" (Cleats)
  • 2 - 1x3 at 54 1/2" (End Aprons)
  • 9 - 1x3 at 51 1/2" (Slats)
  • 1 - 2x3 at 72" (Front Apron)
  • 1 - 2x3 at 29 1/2" (Back Apron)
  • 1 - 2x3 at 40" (Back Apron)
  • 1 - 2x3 at 56" (Arm Rest)
  • 1 - 2x2 at 45" (Back Rest)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Attach the Rails to the inside of the Legs: Leave 3/4" Space at either end and use 2 1/2" Screws and Wood Glue. If you plan to take this apart, skip the glue. You can also use carriage bolts for this by drilling all the way through the rail and leg with an appropriately sized drill bit for the carriage bolt. The top of the Frame Rails should be flush with the top of the Shorter Legs and 6 1/2" from the bottom of the taller legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Attach the Stretchers to the Cleats: Use your Kreg Jig on a 1 1/2" setting and place Pocket holes on the inside of the Stretchers. If you aren't using a Kreg Jig, use 3" Screws from the outside of the cleat into the stretchers. THEN Attach the Cleats to the Rails: Use 2" Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 2
Step 3

Attach the End Aprons: Use 2" Screws and Wood Glue and fasten into the rails, cleats and stretchers. If you are using a Kreg Jig, you can also fasten the End Aprons to the Legs.

Step 3
Step 4

Lay the Slats approximately 6" Apart and screw in place using 1 1/4" Screws. Do not glue the slats if you plan to remove them at any point.

Step 4
Step 5

Attach the Back Rest (Green), then attach the Arm Rest (Red). Place Pocket Holes as indicated in the diagram below. If you aren't using a Kreg Jig, use 3" Screws and Wood Glue. Then attach the Front and Back Aprons: Use 2" Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
08
2011
Project Image
Project Details

This easy to build cantilevered table can be used for a variety of things, but my main purpose for creating this plan is to give you a table that can tuck under the edge of your sofa or a chair and sit over the armrest for use with a laptop, drinks, remotes, your book...whatever you might fancy. This would be fabulous outside next to a chaise lounge or reclining chair, it would even be a fabulous plant stand. Did I mention this is cheap to build?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Saw - unless your hardware store will make cuts for you
  • Drill
  • ** Kreg Jig- this is optional since you are perfectly able just screw your boards together as you would any other piece, however...this piece in particular will look much much cleaner and be a bit stronger if you use a Pocket Hole System. You can purchase a Kreg R3 Jr.for around $40. A great buy if you plan on building anything in the future.
Lumber
  • Here you have a choice again...This decision has no bearing on strength or stability, this is simply a matter of choice based on availability and price.You will choose option 2 if 1x2's are less expensive (my experience is that they generally aren't) or if the selection of boards available in 1x2's is better...
  • Option 1:
  • 4 - 2x2 at 8'
  • Option 2:
  • 2 - 2x2 at 8'
  • 2 - 1x2 at 8'
Materials
  • You will purchase one of the following 3 Screws, you don't need all of them!
  • **1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws - If you would like to use a Kreg Jig for creating pocket holes (as explained below) to assemble this table, and you will be using 1x2's for the table top portion.
  • **2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws - If using a Kreg Jig and 2x2's for the table top.
  • **2 1/2" Wood Screws - If you don't have a Kreg Jig. You will countersink your screws for the most professional appearance. Galvanized or Stainless are best for outdoor use. Wood Filler Wood Glue Sanding Supplies Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • Option 1 Cut list:
  • 4 - 2x2 at 20" (Base and Top Frame)
  • 2 - 2x2 at 24 1/2" (Legs)
  • 11 - 2x2 at 17" (Base, Top Frame and Table Slats)
  • Option 2 Cut list:
  • 4 - 2x2 at 20" (Base and Top Frame)
  • 2 - 2x2 at 24 1/2" (Legs)
  • 3 - 2x2 at 17" (Base Frame and Top Frame)
  • 8 - 1x2 at 17" (Table Slats)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build the Base: if you are using a Kreg Jig, place your pocket holes on the inside of the 17" piece. For regular screws fasten from the outside of the 20" pieces into the 17" piece on both sides.

Step 1
Step 2

Fasten the Legs to the top of the Base Frame: place pocket holes on the inside of legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Fasten the 20" Top Frame pieces to the top of the Legs, then attach the 17" Frame pieces to them. Once you have that structure in place you can attach your Table Slats.

Step 3
Step 4

If you are using a Pocket Hole System create your pockets as shown in the diagram below. If you are using regular screws to assemble, you might also consider attaching the slats by screwing from underneath the 20" Top Frame pieces at an angle up into the slats to hide them. This is a bit trickier to do, and you will need to pre-drill with a countersink drill bit to avoid having your screw stick out a bit, but is definitely a possibility. You would need to use 2x2's for the slats if you were going to do this last option. The image below shows this piece with 1x2 slats.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

RyTurner's picture

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a 2x2 Collection Parsons Tower

Tape Measure

Square

Sander

Drill

Saw

4 - 2x3 @ 78 1/8" (Legs)

12 - 2x3 @ 13" (Side Bars)

12 - 1x3 @ 39" (Front Shelf Frame)

12 - 1x3 @ 11 1/2" (Side Shelf Frame)

12 - 1x2 @ 37 1/2" (Front Back Shelf Cleats)

12 - 1x2 @ 10" ( Side Shelf Cleats)

12 - 2x3 @ 37" (Front and Back Aprons)

6 - 3/4" Plywood @ 37 1/2"x11 1/2" (Shelves)

Attach the Shelf Frames to one of the Side Frames: Use 2" Screws and Wood Glue. The Sides of the Shelf Frames should line up perfectly with the Side Bars on the Side Frames and will fit right inside the U-Shape that the Legs and Side Bars have created.

Make sure you leave the recessed area created by the Shelf Cleats facing upward. This is where your actual shelf will sit, so logic dictates you need this facing up to hold it.

Attach the Other Side Frame to the Shelf Frames: Fasten in the same manner, use 2" Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 3
Step 4
Project Image

The Parsons Collection of furniture at a Certain Specialty Retailer is so versatile and can be used with any style of decor. If you like traditional or french country, this unassuming shelf allows you to display without getting in the way.

4- 2x3 @ 8' (Legs, 4 of the Side Bars)

5 - 2x3 @ 10' (8 of the Side Bars and the Aprons)

4 - 1x3 @ 10' (Front Shelf Frames)

2 - 1x3 @ 8' (Side Shelf Frames)

4 - 1x2 @ 10' (Front Back Shelf Cleats)

2 - 1x2 @ 8' (Side Shelf Cleats)

1 - 3/4" Plywood Sheet @ 4'x8'

4" Screws

2" Screws

1 1/4" Screws

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sandpaper

Anti - Tip Kit (they sell this at most big box hardware stores)

Finishing Supplies

Build the Side Frames (2): Attach the Side Bars to the Legs, space the Side Bars 12 5/8" apart and flush with the bottom (outside edge when vertical) of your Legs. Use 4" Screws and Wood Glue

The Legs will lay on edge while the Side Bars will rest flat when attaching.

There should be a 1" difference in width if the Side Bars run horizontally, that will house the Shelf Frame.

Notes: The not to be named specialty retailer who sells this beauty recommends using a wall mounting bracket to support this shelf, and so do I. This seems like it might be a climbing magnet for children especially since as I was drawing this plan my 2 year old came over and said..."I'm gonna climb that ladder and then I'll be so big"...eek. I am including this Anti-Tip Kit in the materials list, so please do consider purchasing one especially if you have littles in your home!

You can build this with corner aprons for the Shelf Supports if you have a miter saw, it's pretty easy, I chose the method below so that those of you who don't have one can still produce this shelving!

**Always Pre-Drill and Counter Sink for the most professional appearance. Check for Square after EACH step. It will really matter in this project. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines.

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build the Frames for the Shelves (6): Use 1 1/4" Screws and Wood Glue Then attach the Shelf Cleats using 1 1/4" Screws and Wood Glue.

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Step 2

The basic components of your shelving unit are built, now you need to cut out your Plywood Shelf. Drop it in once you have it appropriately sized. It isn't really necessary to attach it to the Shelf Supports, in fact I kind of like the idea of them being removable for painting, cleaning etc.

Attach the Front and Back Aprons (Red): Use 2" Screws and Wood Glue, fasten from the inside of the Shelf Frame into the apron. This should be flush with the Shelf Frame.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 5

If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

RyTurner's picture

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a 2x2 Collection Coffee Table

$25-$50

Dimensions for This Project

Tape Measure

Square

Sander

Drill

Saw

4 - 2x2 @ 16" (Legs)

4 - 2x2 @ 43" (Front Back Rails)

4 - 2x2 @ 17" (Side Rails)

2 - 3/4x3/4" Trim @ 43" (Supports)

2 - 3/4x3/4" Trim @ 15 1/2" (Supports)

1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 43x17" (Table Top)

Attach the Table Supports to the Rails: Use 2" Screws and Wood Glue, fasten from the inside to prevent visible Screw Holes.

Insert Plywood that is Cut to Size: Use 3/4" Plywood and attach if you desire to, using 1 1/4" Screws from underneath, up through the supports.

Step 3
Step 4
Project Image

An easy to build, relatively lightweight coffee table, that is so stylish, and requires no special tools for building.

2 - 2x2 @ 6'

2 - 2x2 @ 8'

1 - 3/4x3/4 Trim @ 8'

1 - 3/4x3/4 Trim @ 10'

1 sheet of 3/4" Plywood in a matching specie of wood (if possible) @ 4'x8' (or smaller if you can find a remnant)

4" Screws

2" Screws

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sandpaper

Finishing Supplies

Attach the Lower Rails to the Legs: Use 4" Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 1

**Always Pre-Drill and Counter Sink for the most professional appearance. Check for Square after EACH step. It will really matter in this project. Always fasten from the inside out whenever possible to avoid filling Screw Holes. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines.

For outdoor use, purchase wood that will hold up to the elements such as Cedar, Redwood, and Teak, and sand and finish each piece before you assemble. Use an outdoor water seal product to ensure a lasting finish.

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Attach the Upper Rails to the Legs: Use 4" Screws and Wood Glue

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Step 2

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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