Free Plans to Build a gorgeous Farmhouse Bed! A simple build with sturdy lines and amazing style! Xx... Rayan
$100-$150
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the headboard legs. Cut the angle as shown using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.
Cut the pieces for the headboard panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2x3 pieces as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Insert the plywood panel and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the legs and 2x3 pieces.
Cut the pieces for the headboard trim. The front and sides of each trim piece will overlap by ½”. Secure each piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the footboard legs. Cut the angle as shown using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.
Cut the pieces for the footboard panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2x3 pieces as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Insert the plywood panel and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the legs and 2x3 pieces.
Cut the pieces for the footboard trim. The front and sides of each trim piece will overlap by ½”. Secure each piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2x3s to the plywood using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the 2x3 pieces.
Attach the slat support using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the slat supports will be flush with the bottom of the sides.
Secure the sides to the legs as shown using 2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue – the bed may need to be disassembled (plus it has to fit through the door!).
Cut the pieces for the center support. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer support, as well as one end of each leg piece. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Attach to the center of the headboard stretcher and footboard using 2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue!
Cut the pieces for the slats. Position them, evenly spaced, and secure using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue!
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Jacqueline Dresser. To me, this piece is both substantialy and dainty at the same time. It's that classic look of a traditional piece with french lines made to stand the test of time. love.... Xx... Rayan
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out (one set toward the top and one set toward the bottom). This is so they will be hidden and won’t have to be filled!
Attach the side panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out.
Attach the back assembly to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top stretcher should be positioned so the pocket holes are facing up while the others are positioned so the pocket holes face down.
Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, it will need to be applied to the top before the top is secured. The sides will overlap by ½” at each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the side panels, back panel, and front stretcher.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Apply edge banding to all four edges of the front, if desired. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the side pieces to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Then attach the front and back pieces. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Install the knobs or handles.
Cut the pieces for the sides of the hutch. Maintain the dimensions shown in the drawing and draw a line to cut a decorative curve using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the lower edge of the pieces – keep in mind there will be a right and a left. Apply edge banding, if desired. Position the pieces so they are located ½” in from the side edges, and the back edge is flush with the back edge of the top. Attach to the top of the dresser using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back of the hutch. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the hutch top. Apply edge banding to all four edges, if desired. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the hutch sides and back.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Clara Buffet with a Drop-Down TV Option! This is a Custom Plan for a reader with a TV containment and dropdown option! How cool is that biz... yahoo Xx...Rayan
Cut the pieces for the side frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown.
Cut the plywood piece for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble with glue and 1” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the two shorter ends. Attach the sides with the bottom of the frames flush with the bottom face using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the large divider. Drill pocket holes as shown, and secure to the bottom and sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the base. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the three shorter pieces and assemble as shown. Attach the feet to the frame with countersunk 2” screws through the base frame into the feet.
Attach the base to the cabinet with countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the frame into the bottom.
Cut the piece for the narrower divider. Drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges, and secure to the large divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the shorter ends of each shelf and secure with the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The lower shelves are narrower and are located ¾” back from the front edge.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Cut the opening as shown. Secure to the cabinet with ½” overlap at the sides and front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, dividers, and stretchers.
Cut the piece for the door. Cut an optional finger hole at the front of the door to make it easier to open. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides. The hinge can be placed at the front or back of the opening.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Attach the bottom to the sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front and back, and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Patchwork Secretary Desk! I absolutely love the patchwork pieces from West Elm, so this is heavily inspired by that...allegedly...
Stay tuned because later we will be back with a fun giveaway and a little resolution inspiration!
Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the legs. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure to the base frame using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the top into the frame.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the center divider. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes previously drilled in the sides, divider, and back.
Cut the piece for the drawer dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the fixed shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the pull-out shelves. These shelves will use the roller drawer slides in order to make them moveable. The position is up to you… The upper pull-out shelf can be used for a printer so the height of the printer will have to measured before the shelf can be installed. Mark the position and install the slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer boxes by 3/8”. Install the ball-bearing slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts in the opening.
Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges on the larger door, then secure the hinges to the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening.
Install the hinges on the bottom of the door used as the desktop. Install the drop down supports according to the manufacturer’s instructions and make any necessary adjustments. Install the magnetic catch at the top of the opening to keep the door closed when not in use. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening.
Install the cabinet pulls.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Dawson Extra Wide Dresser! A fabulous way to finish off this collection, don't you think? Yahoo! Xx... Rayan
Cut the pieces for the side frames. Cut a 45 degree miter at the top of each of the legs, as well as each end of the side top pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the top frame piece, the center frame piece, and the lower frame piece. Also, drill pocket holes in the outer edges of the legs to attach the front and back frames.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the side panels with the back faces flush with the inside face of the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes and assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the frame to the front using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side frames.
Cut the pieces for the back frame. Cut a 45 degree miter at the top of each of the legs, as well as each end of the side top pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the top frame piece and the lower frame piece.
Cut the pieces for the back panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the panel with the back face flush with the inside face of the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the back to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side frames and bottom.
Cut the piece for the top support. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 pieces. Attach to the sides of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the supports will be flush with the top of the stretcher piece of the front frame as well as flush with the inside edge of the front frame.
Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x2 slide support. Attach to the front frame divider using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws and to the back using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the slide support will be flush with the top of the stretcher piece of the front frame.
Cut the pieces for the top. Drill pocket holes around all four edges. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the underside. The top face will be flush with the top edge of the front, back, and side frames.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom pieces as well as each end of the side pieces. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the front and back as shown. The drawer front will overlap the sides by 3/8”. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts. Install the cabinet hardware.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Joss & Main Foxton Bar & Game Table
Edge banding should be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the base top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long end. Attach to the base as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the bottom edge. Attach to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws then secure to the base through the pocket holes in the bottom edge.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the sides as well as the back edge. Attach to the dividers and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the wine rack. For the bottle supports, drill holes using a 4” hole saw across the center of the main piece, then cut the piece in half. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece and attach to the 1x2 supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Position in the center cubby of the bar and attach to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Cut the pieces for the supports. Attach hinges to the back of each piece, then attach the hinges to the bar back.
Cut the pieces for the top. Both top pieces will overhang all sides by 1”. Attach the continuous hinge to the front edge, then attach the hinge to the second top piece. The second top piece will fold over the first top piece then fold out onto the supports to play games!
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Emerson Secretary Chest. This piece is so fantastic that I think I need one right this second!
Ps...I hope you will join us for the remaining giveaways we have going on, and stay tuned for the winner announcement for the Home Depot Gift cards from PureBond!
Edge banding should be applied to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece as well as the top edge of the side pieces. Attach the bottom to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes around all four edges of each piece as shown. Secure the pieces to each other using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the back to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the center shelf. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as one of the long edges for the back. Attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holes.
Cut the piece for the bottom support. Drill pocket holes in one long edge. Secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge for the back. Attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holes.
Cut the pieces for the side shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge for the back. Attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holes.
Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the sides. Start with the longest horizontal pieces as shown in the first drawing and attach them to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the pieces shown in the second drawing as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the pieces as shown in the third drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the entire frame assembly to the front of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The tops of the frame pieces at the side shelves and the center shelves should be flush with the tops of the shelves.
Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x2 pieces only. Attach to the center of the drawer area on the frame (as well as to the back) using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Attach the 1x2 drawer slide supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
The bottom edge of the supports should be even with the top edge of the frame pieces (see the drawing).
Cut the piece for the top. The sides and front will overlap by ¾”. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the underside.
Cut the pieces for the upper and lower trim. Attach the side pieces first, then attach the front pieces using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the writing surface. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides. Attach the hinges to the bottom of the surface to the cabinet according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Attach the drop-front supports to the sides of the opening and the writing surface according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Attach the magnetic catches to the inside of the top of the writing surface.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides. For another easy tutorial, click here. Install the drawer hardware.
This project was so simple and has had such a big impact on my Monster Mash boy's room, that I am kind of wanting to make a few more for other areas of my home. Such a fun build and doesn't require any special skills or prior experience whatsoever... nope, nothing but a couple of basic tools, some glue, and a bit of patience to get this project finished! Many of you have seen similar items for sale for nearly $1000, so the savings on this piece is quite substantial, and the style it brings to your space is out of this world!
I am linking this project up to the Pinterest Challenge: Winter Edition from Young House Love, Bower Power, The Remodeled Life, and Decor and The Dog! Woot Woot... I love this because it forces me to get my bones to work on something, yahoo! Here is one of the many pins you might find for this project's inspiration... and another here. LOVE this guy... or gal...whatever!
Thank you to 3MDIY.com for sponsoring this post and project! I hope you enjoy...I have included a full video tutorial, complete with enourmous baby bump (filmed the week before I delivered the bird)! So, for those of you who are curious, I hope you will take a peak (and not judge me to harshly for my largeness!).
$100-$200
Sketch your tree shape onto a sheet of plywood. There are 3 possible ways to accomplish this, the easiest way to do this is to use a projector and project the image in full size onto your plywood. If a projector is not something you happen to own, there are two other method below for transfering your image.
1. PosteRazor: this will turn your image into a poster by printing a series of pages that will make the whole image in the size you want.
2. Grid Transfer Method
Once you have your image sketched out, use your jig saw to cut out your tree. Please watch the video for complete instructions and details along with tips and tricks for completing this project!
Use your first tree shape to trace your shape onto the remaining sheets of plywood and cut out exactly as you did the first.
Once your trees are all cut out, glue them together by placing glue between each layer and clamping along the outside edges. Allow your glue to set up for about 30 minutes. Sand and Finish as desired.
Content and/or other value provided by our partner, 3M DIY.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Benchwright Buffet.
Edge banding should be applied to all exposed areas of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as the top end of the legs.
Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the plywood panel as shown. Attach the panel to the side frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the side panel assembly as shown to the legs using glue and pocket hole screws. Use 2” pocket hole screws through the frame pieces into the legs and use 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side panels into the legs.
Cut the pieces for the Bottom aprons. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket hole screws as shown. Attach to the legs and the back apron using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the bottom aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The face of the shelf should be flush with the top of the aprons.
Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Attach to the aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The supports should fit up against the back side of the bottom.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. When drilling pocket holes, note that there will be a left and a right so that the pocket holes are hidden in the section where the drawers are located.
Cut the piece for the top apron. Drill pocket holes at each end and attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes at the sides and back, then attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers. Drill pocket holes at the sides and back also and attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and pocket hole screws through the legs and back into the top piece. Use 1-1/2” pocket hole screws through the legs and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the back.
Cut the pieces for the door frames. Drill pocket holes in the shorter pieces as well as the piece for the panel. Attach the panels to the shorter pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the assembly to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. The fronts will overlap the opening by ¼” on each side. For an easy tutorial on how to attach drawer fronts, click here.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Portland Desk
Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the inner side. Cut a decorative notch as shown in the drawing or create your own.
Cut the pieces for the right drawer dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each divider. Attach to the right side as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shorter stretchers. Drill pocket holes in one end only and attach to the right side as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the kick plate. Cut a decorative notch in the bottom and drill pocket holes in one shorter end. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the inner side piece as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the side into the dividers, stretchers, and kick plate.
Cut the pieces for the longer stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach as shown to the inner side as well as the left side using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the left dividers and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each piece. Attach to the left side using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the inner divider. Cut the notches with a jig saw and drill a pocket hole in each notch as shown. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws into the long stretchers and 1-1/4” brad nails into the dividers.
Cut the piece for the drawer shelf. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the upper divider. Cut the notches with a jigsaw and drill a pocket hole in each notch. Drill pocket holes in the lower edge also. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the top trim. Drill pocket holes in each end of the back piece and a curve at the front edge of the side pieces. Attach the longer piece to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top and attach the trim using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the underside of the top into the trim.
Attach the top to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, dividers, and stretchers.
The drawer boxes are different sizes except #6 & #7 – they are the same size. They are all constructed in the same manner with glue, pocket hole screws, and brad nails.
Assembly for the drawer boxes is as follows: Cut the piece for the front from ¾” plywood and the sides, back, and bottom from ½” plywood. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in one shorter end of each side piece. Attach the back to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the bottom to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the entire box assembly to the drawer front using glue and 1” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes in the sides into the front.
Attach stick-on or nail-on furniture glides to the bottom of each drawer to help them slide smoothly. Attach the drawer pulls.
Cut the piece for the door. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door. Shim in place and attach the hinges. Drill a hole for the knob and attach. Position and attach the magnetic catch.
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