Browse all Free Woodworking Plans with an Estimated Cost Between $100-$150

Jun
20
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Project Details

We are slowly (very slowly) making our way through the outdoor pieces with cushions to accomodate less expensive cushion options, and today's plan is our next victim! We covered the matching Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Chair with Modifications for Cushions from Target and now we do exactly the same for the sofa! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 6 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 27 1/4"  – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 33 3/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 36 3/4” – Top
  • 1 – 2x4 at 73” – Top
  • 2 – 2x4 at 66” – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 66” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 9” – Center Leg
  • 9 – 1x4 at 24” – Seat Slats
  • 8 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Side Slats
  • 9 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 33 3/4” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top. Cut 45 deg. angles in each end of the long piece as well as one end of the short pieces (there will be a left and right). Drill pocket holes in the mitered ends and assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Place on the side assemblies and attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the top of the legs into the top piece.

Sofa Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be a 2x4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side stretcher piece to allow for the seat slats. Attach the leg piece at the center using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach all pieces at the spacing indicated (with the front piece flush with the front of the side frame) to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Seat Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center of the support with 1-1/4” brad nails.

Sofa Seat Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Side Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Back Slat for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Sofa Back Slat for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jun
02
2014
Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Parquetry Dresser Herringbone Chest

Building with Rayan's plan was so simple.

Since buying 1/4" Walnut or Teak were out of my budget, I got creative and used Ikea Decking Tiles to create the Herringbone drawer fronts.  I made modifications to make the dresser taller and longer.  The paint and wood combination was inspired by Rayan's Sketch Up drawing. You can visit my blog for a very thorough tutorial on how I built this dresser. http://www.thepursuitofhandyness.com/diy-herringbone-chest-reveal/

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

$150 if you use the cheaper Euro Slides.

Length of Time 

2 days to build but a week to finish. 

Modifications 

I modified my dresser/chest to 40"w x 34"h x 18"d.  This required modifications of every board.  I also built my drawer boxes of 1/2" plywood and secured with pocket holes in the front so that they will be hidden by the drawer fronts. 

Lumber Used 

Birch Hardwood Plywood

Solid Acacia

Pine 1x3 

Finishing Technique 

Paint and Polyurethane on the carcass and Tung oil on the drawer fronts.

Parquetry Herringbone Chest without drawer fronts.
Parquetry Herringbone Chest Front
Parquetry Herringbone Chest angle
May
14
2014
Real Reader Build for the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Steppe 3 Drawer Dresser by MJ Faust

First build using plans from the site, think it went pretty well (and surprised it came out mostly square and symetrical).  I have a carptentry background, but it's been awhile since I got my hands dirty.  I Built this for my baby girl that is on the way, hope it is something that can last her! 

Modified the plans to shorthen the length, but increase the height.  We needed something specific for our space and wanted the drawers to be large (we hate small drawers).  Most difficult thing for me was finishing it, I probably sanded the paint and the polycrylic 100 times to get them to look the way I wanted.  The drawer fronts are walnut scrap from a cabinet shop, did a tung oil on them and then sealed it with satin polycrylic.  The pulls are from ebay, mid-century vintage copper NOS.  Drawer slides are industrial and lock in when pushed which should come in handy the first few years.  

Drawer Size on a Real Reader Build for the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Steppe 3 Drawer Dresser by MJ Faust
Profile of the Real Reader Build for the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Steppe 3 Drawer Dresser by MJ Faust
May
12
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Project Details

By Special Reader Request, this fabulous DIY furniture plan for building your own storage accessory tower is a lovely budget friendly solution that is just perfect for keeping all of your odds and ends, your craft supplies, maybe your jewelry, or socks, bathing suits and the like. All I see is drawers galore and I go crazy for organization and orderly goodness! Do you crave this in your lives right now too? Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Tools
Lumber
  • 7 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 4’
  • 1 sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 3” trim at 8’
  • Scraps of 1x material at 24”
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 42-1/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x4 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 17-7/8” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2”x 42-1/4” - Back
  • 9 – 1x2 at 20-1/2” - Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x4 at 20-1/2” - Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 24-3/4” - Top
  • 2 – 3” trim at 14-1/2” – Lower Side Trim
  • 1 – 3” trim at 24-1/2” – Lower Front Trim
  • 9 – ¼” plywood at 12” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 14 – 1x2 at 10-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Frame
  • 14 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Frame
  • 4 – 1x8 (ripped to 5-3/4” wide) at 10-1/2” – Larger Drawer Frame
  • 4 – 1x8 (ripped to 5-3/4” wide) at 19-1/2” – Larger Drawer Frame
  • 11 – 1x3 at 20-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 1x material (ripped to 7/8” wide) at 20-1/4” Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side stretchers, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side stretchers.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each panel. Secure the stretchers to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the back face of the stretchers.

Secure the side assemblies to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the stretchers into the legs, and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the panels into the legs.

Constructing the Sides for the Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back and drill pocket holes in each longer side. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the back will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Building the Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x4 stretcher. Secure the 1x2 stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the 2x4 stretcher to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attaching the Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang by ½” at the sides and front. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Fastening the Top in Place for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the trim. No dimension is given for the side pieces – it will depend on if it will be a flush cut or a miter cut. Secure the sides first, then cut and secure the front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Nail the Trim in Place for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end f the drawer box side pieces. Assemble the drawer frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms and secure them to each frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front face of the legs. 

Tower Small Drawer Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Tower Small Drawer Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Tower Large Drawer Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Tower Large Drawer Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

For the larger drawers fronts, start by shimming the lower piece in place with a 1/8” gap between the 1x3 piece and the stretcher. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Place the 7/8” piece above the 1x3 piece with a 1/8” gap, and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Place the remaining 1x3 piece above the 7/8” piece with a 1/8” gap, and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Repeat for the other large drawer.

Installing the Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

May
05
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Project Details

A fun DIY Furniture build for a stylish buffet or sideboard that can easily double as a media cabinet or console table depending on where you need it and how you style it! If you are in the market for a DIY furniture plans for an easy to build buffet or a budget friendly console table of a different style, be sure to check out our plan index, it is loaded to the brim with great stuff! Xx.. Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 2’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’ (it may be more economical to rip 2 – 2x4s in half)
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 18” - Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 14” – Base Sides
  • 2 – 2x2 at 43” – Base Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x2 at 54” – Shelf Frame
  • 2 – 2x2 at 11” – Shelf Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 43” - Shelf
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 70” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 17” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 68-1/2” - Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Dividers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 23” – Drawer Stretcher
  • 2 - ¾” plywood at  12-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1x6 at 12-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1x6 at 22” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/8” x 22-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 22-5/8” - Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side and stretcher pieces. Attach the sides and stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1 How to Build the Base for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the shelf and the shelf frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood shelf piece. Secure inside the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the frame.

Position the frame on the legs as shown. Secure in place using glue and 3” countersunk screws.

Step 2 for the Shelf of Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 2a for the Shelf portion of Step 2 for the Shelf of Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 3

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position on the base as shown – the sides will overhang by 12” while the front and back will be flush. Secure to the base using glue and countersunk 1-1/2” screws.

Step 3 How to Build the Buffet Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build the Kiko Buffet
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4 Building the Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build the Kiko Buffet
Step 5

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5 Attaching the Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back edge. Treat the pieces as a left and a right – this way, the pocket holes will be hidden by the drawers and won’t have to be filled. Secure to the bottom and the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6 Add the Dividers for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 7

 Cut the piece for the drawer stretcher and drill pocket hole screws in each end. Secure to the dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7 Fasten the Drawer Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 8

 Cut the piece for the top. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the back, sides, and dividers into the underside of the top.

Step 8 Attach the Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 9 Build the Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 9 Build the Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. 

Step 10 Attaching the Drawer Faces for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

Step 11 Attaching the Doors for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Apr
04
2014
Project Details

A good sideboard slash buffet slash console slash media cabinet slash thing to put things on and in is hard to find without spending approximately one bajillion dollars. These are the perfect builds to tackle if saving cash is your thing (totally my thing since I'm always dirt poor). Yes installing drawers is a pain in the neck, but there are only three and aside from those bad boys, it's really just a carcass, or a box, if you prefer to call it something a bit less macabre, which clearly I don't, Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$150-$200

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood

Optional (if you’d rather not cut these pieces from the plywood):

  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x6 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 6 – 2x2 at 8” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 19” – Side Stretchers
  • 8 – 1x2 at 14” – Angled Leg Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x2 at 65” – Base Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/4” x 66-1/2” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-1/4” x 66-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 22” x 25-1/4” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Dividers
  • 2 – 1x2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 24-1/2” – Divider Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 20-3/4” – Front Stretchers
  • 3 – 1x2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 22” – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 21-1/2” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-3/4” x 68” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 22-3/4” – Door Base
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x6 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 18-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x6 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 21” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 22-1/4” – False Drawer Fronts (Doors)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 22-1/4” – False Drawer Fronts (Doors)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/4” x 22-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 22-3/4” plywood – Lower Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face down and won’t have to be filled.

Cut the pieces for the angled stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one end only of each piece. Cut a 45 degree angle in the opposite end. Position the stretchers on the center leg, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the entire assembly to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the base stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face down and won’t have to be filled.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

If using edge banding, it will be applied before assembly.

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position the bottom so that the front edge is flush with the front edge of the base. The bottom will be shorter than the sides and back by ¾”. Secure to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Add a countersunk 2” screw through the bottom into the center leg.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown, then secure to the base using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the bottom edge. Attach to the bottom and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the back edge as well as the bottom edge. Note that there will be a left and a right so that the pocket holes are hidden in the drawer area. Position as shown (3/4” back from the front edge), then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the divider trim. Secure to the front edge of the dividers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The edge of the trim that will face the drawer area will be flush with the inside of the dividers.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the back edge and side edges.  Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, sides, stretchers, and back.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions then make any necessary adjustments.

Step 9
Step 9
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the door bases. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the opening. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet.

Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. The center drawer fronts are wider than the false drawer fronts, and the lower drawer fronts are taller than the other drawer fronts.

Install the center drawer fronts first by pre-drilling the holes for the cabinet pull. The upper drawer front will overlap the sides by 3/8”, and the top and bottom by ¼”. Install this drawer front first, then install the remaining center fronts with a ¼” gap between them. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles. Install the cabinet pulls.

The false drawer fronts will line up with the center drawer fronts and will be flush with the sides of the cabinet. Secure to the door using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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