Browse all Free Woodworking Plans with an Estimated Cost Between $100-$150

Sep
02
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Project Details

If you liked the original Nova Sofa, but would love a bit more seating, this Sectional unit is just the ticket! Use the pieces from this collection either indoors or outside and it is equally as wonderful for both, perhaps just styled differently, no?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Tools
Lumber
  • 16 – 1x2 at 8’ (It may be cheaper to buy 2 – 1x6 at 8’ then rip them into 1x2 strips on the table saw)
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x10 at 6’
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x8 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22” – Legs
  • 1 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 23-1/2” – Leg
  • 1 – 2x6 (ripped to 6” wide) at 14” – Leg
  • 1 – 2x2 at 49-1/2” – Back Stretcher
  • 6 – 2x2 at 12-1/2” – Support Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 43-1/2” – Inner Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 52-1/2” – Upper Back
  • 4 – 2x2 at 22-1/2” – Seat Supports
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8” – Inner Side Slat Support
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 25-1/2” x 49-1/2” - Seat
  • 1 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22-1/2” – Arm
  • 1 – 1x3 at 48-3/4” – Inner Back Slat
  • 3 – 1x2 at 50-1/4” – Inner Back Slats
  • 1 – 1x3 at 23-1/4” – Inner Side Slat
  • 3 – 1x2 at 23-1/4” – Inner Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x3 at 30” – Side Slats
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6” – Side Slat
  • 15 – 1x2 at 30” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x2 at 6” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x3 at 54” – Back & Front Slats
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6” – Front Slat
  • 15 – 1x2 at 54” – Back & Front Slats
  • 3 – 1x2 at 6” – Front Slats
  • 1 – 1x10 (ripped to 7-1/2” wide) at 54” – Back Trim
  • 1 – 1x8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 31-1/2” – Left Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for two of the legs, two of the support legs, and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher, one end of the support legs, the top edge of the legs, and one long edge of the legs. (There will be a left and a right!) Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the remaining two back legs and drill pocket holes in the top edge only. Attach the inner back legs to the outer back legs (in an L shape) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut and Fasten Legs Supports and Stretchers using a Miter Saw and Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 2

Cut the pieces for two of the legs, two of the support legs, inner back stretcher and the upper back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher and the top edge of the support legs, then attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the upper back piece to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut and Fasten Legs Supports and Stretcher using Miter Saw and Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front legs, front support legs, and stretcher, and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher, one end of the support legs, and the top edge of the legs. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut and Attach Front Legs Supports and Stetcher using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the front and inner back stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the inner slat support and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the outer seat supports as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. They will be positioned ¾” away from the inner back legs.

Cut and Attach Seat Supports using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Cut and Attach Inner Slat Support using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw, then secure to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Notch Seat using Jig Saw for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Attach Seat using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the arm and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes.

Cut and Fasten the Arm using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the inner back slats. The 1x3 slat will be shorter than the 1x2 slats. Position the 1x3 slat between the inner back leg then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The 1x2s will be positioned between the inner back leg and the inner side slat support. Position the 1x2 slats with ½” spacing between them then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws through the support into the slats.

Cut and Attach Inner Back Slats using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the inner side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Attach Inner Side Slats using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the outer side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Attach Outer Side Slats using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the outer back slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the front slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Attach Outer Back Slats using Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Cut and Attach Front Slats using Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the trim. The angles on the trim are not pretty round numbers, but we can connect the dots to draw them. For the left side trim, measure 7-1/2” down from the outer top corner (your starting point) of the trim piece, make a mark, and draw a perpendicular line across the trim (the end of this line will be your ending point). Draw from your starting point to your ending point, and you will have your needed angle. Likewise for the top trim, measure 6” across from the top left corner (your starting point) of the trim piece, make a mark, and draw a perpendicular line across the trim (the end of this line will be your ending point). Draw from your starting point to your ending point, and you will have your needed angle.  For these angles to work, the chair needs to be square! Cut each a piece a little longer than the dimensions and play with the angles if necessary!

Cut and Fasten Trim for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Aug
19
2014
Reader Showcase // Our Crate & Barrel Outdoor Furniture

My husband & I built these 3 pieces, plus a gorgeous table over the week-end....we used Fir lumber and stained them a warm red.....they are exactly what we had wanted and we didn't have to spend the 1100.00 to purchase them.......Thank you TDC for sharing the plans, it was so easy to build with your very descriptive examples.

Blessings,

Michelle

Lumber Used 

Fir lumber 

Finishing Technique 

Stained Red

Aug
04
2014
Reader Showcase // Land of Nod Inspired Low Rise Crib

I appreciated the crib plans and wanted to show some pictures of what I did for the mending straps with photos.

This build cost me approximately $600 for materials.  It was straight up $300 for all the maple wood. Sand paper, scews, tung oil and woodshop rent time made up the rest.  It took about 2 months time to build.  I had a full woodshop and a master woodworking to advise me.  This crib was my first woodworking project ever. If I didn't have the woodshop and the master woodworker to ask advice I know this crib would not have been completed or come out as beautiful as it did. 

I agree with Josh and will repost his recommendations. Wish I had them when I had been working on my crib.

counter sinking
Adding Slats to side
Krieg jig maple plugs with 130 some Krieg holes to fill
Punching holes in nylon strip for mending strap
screws and washers holding nylon strip to mattress frame for mending strap
Eyelet to allow 1/4 screw into the crib frame where I put the 1/4 threaded inserts
Estimated Cost 

$ 500-600 for materials.  Work time and equipment will increase cost!

Length of Time 

2 months

Lumber Used 

Maple

Finishing Technique 

Tung Oil 

Additional Project Details 

Interior dimensions: the width meets federal spec but the length is 1/2 inch too long at 53'1/2. Simply cut all your length boards to 53 instead of 53'1/2 if you like. If I were to do the crib again, I'd probably cut the length to 52'1/2 inches, as this would be a perfect fit for almost all mattresses. If you go this route, remember to keep the mattress support slats flush with the top of the support frame to give a level surface. The pictures indicate the slats being inset a bit.

What helped us:

Wood spacers to place between the rails during installation.

We wanted to be able to disassemble the crib, so we put some finishing screws on the side of the crib and did not use glue

I would add recommending buying krieg jig PLUGS. They look much better than wood filling all the holes and probably save time and money for all the wood filler you use and wait time for drying and refilling the gaps that happen when the wood filler dries.  

I did not make the slanted leg supports but instead did a straight leg support.  I was told that the the slanted leg design might not hold up over time because they are a weak point of the body and with normal usage they are susecptible to breaking. 

For all the postings on federal law.  The law applies only to cribs for public purchase. If you are building it for your own use. You can make the slats however far or close you want. It is only a requirement for selling.  

Design confidential has a nice section on Lumber and The Raw Deal. Since I cut my own wood my length was nominal measured instead of the 'actual'.  For example: 1x3's are actually 3/4 x 2 1/2.     http://www.thedesignconfidential.com/2010/09/build-it-lumber-and-the-raw-deal

Because of this my slats ended up meeting the federal guidelines.  It did cause some other problems for me, particulary with the mattress frame. See Josh's recommendation above.

Hope that helps out anyone building this.

The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Land of Nod Inspired Low Rise Crib
It's a Boy Reader Showcase // Land of Nod Inspired Low Rise Crib
Jun
20
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Project Details

We are slowly (very slowly) making our way through the outdoor pieces with cushions to accomodate less expensive cushion options, and today's plan is our next victim! We covered the matching Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Chair with Modifications for Cushions from Target and now we do exactly the same for the sofa! 

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 6 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 27 1/4"  – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 33 3/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 36 3/4” – Top
  • 1 – 2x4 at 73” – Top
  • 2 – 2x4 at 66” – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 66” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 9” – Center Leg
  • 9 – 1x4 at 24” – Seat Slats
  • 8 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Side Slats
  • 9 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 33 3/4” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top. Cut 45 deg. angles in each end of the long piece as well as one end of the short pieces (there will be a left and right). Drill pocket holes in the mitered ends and assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Place on the side assemblies and attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the top of the legs into the top piece.

Sofa Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be a 2x4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side stretcher piece to allow for the seat slats. Attach the leg piece at the center using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach all pieces at the spacing indicated (with the front piece flush with the front of the side frame) to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Seat Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center of the support with 1-1/4” brad nails.

Sofa Seat Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Side Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Back Slat for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Sofa Back Slat for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jun
02
2014
Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Parquetry Dresser Herringbone Chest

Building with Rayan's plan was so simple.

Since buying 1/4" Walnut or Teak were out of my budget, I got creative and used Ikea Decking Tiles to create the Herringbone drawer fronts.  I made modifications to make the dresser taller and longer.  The paint and wood combination was inspired by Rayan's Sketch Up drawing. You can visit my blog for a very thorough tutorial on how I built this dresser. http://www.thepursuitofhandyness.com/diy-herringbone-chest-reveal/

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

$150 if you use the cheaper Euro Slides.

Length of Time 

2 days to build but a week to finish. 

Modifications 

I modified my dresser/chest to 40"w x 34"h x 18"d.  This required modifications of every board.  I also built my drawer boxes of 1/2" plywood and secured with pocket holes in the front so that they will be hidden by the drawer fronts. 

Lumber Used 

Birch Hardwood Plywood

Solid Acacia

Pine 1x3 

Finishing Technique 

Paint and Polyurethane on the carcass and Tung oil on the drawer fronts.

Parquetry Herringbone Chest without drawer fronts.
Parquetry Herringbone Chest Front
Parquetry Herringbone Chest angle
May
14
2014
Real Reader Build for the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Steppe 3 Drawer Dresser by MJ Faust

First build using plans from the site, think it went pretty well (and surprised it came out mostly square and symetrical).  I have a carptentry background, but it's been awhile since I got my hands dirty.  I Built this for my baby girl that is on the way, hope it is something that can last her! 

Modified the plans to shorthen the length, but increase the height.  We needed something specific for our space and wanted the drawers to be large (we hate small drawers).  Most difficult thing for me was finishing it, I probably sanded the paint and the polycrylic 100 times to get them to look the way I wanted.  The drawer fronts are walnut scrap from a cabinet shop, did a tung oil on them and then sealed it with satin polycrylic.  The pulls are from ebay, mid-century vintage copper NOS.  Drawer slides are industrial and lock in when pushed which should come in handy the first few years.  

Drawer Size on a Real Reader Build for the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Steppe 3 Drawer Dresser by MJ Faust
Profile of the Real Reader Build for the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Steppe 3 Drawer Dresser by MJ Faust
drupal counter