Browse all Free Woodworking Plans with an Estimated Cost Between $100-$150

Apr
04
2014
Project Details

A good sideboard slash buffet slash console slash media cabinet slash thing to put things on and in is hard to find without spending approximately one bajillion dollars. These are the perfect builds to tackle if saving cash is your thing (totally my thing since I'm always dirt poor). Yes installing drawers is a pain in the neck, but there are only three and aside from those bad boys, it's really just a carcass, or a box, if you prefer to call it something a bit less macabre, which clearly I don't, Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$150-$200

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood

Optional (if you’d rather not cut these pieces from the plywood):

  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x6 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 6 – 2x2 at 8” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 19” – Side Stretchers
  • 8 – 1x2 at 14” – Angled Leg Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x2 at 65” – Base Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/4” x 66-1/2” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-1/4” x 66-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 22” x 25-1/4” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Dividers
  • 2 – 1x2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 24-1/2” – Divider Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 20-3/4” – Front Stretchers
  • 3 – 1x2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 22” – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 21-1/2” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-3/4” x 68” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 22-3/4” – Door Base
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x6 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 18-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x6 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 21” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 22-1/4” – False Drawer Fronts (Doors)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 22-1/4” – False Drawer Fronts (Doors)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/4” x 22-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 22-3/4” plywood – Lower Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face down and won’t have to be filled.

Cut the pieces for the angled stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one end only of each piece. Cut a 45 degree angle in the opposite end. Position the stretchers on the center leg, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the entire assembly to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the base stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face down and won’t have to be filled.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

If using edge banding, it will be applied before assembly.

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position the bottom so that the front edge is flush with the front edge of the base. The bottom will be shorter than the sides and back by ¾”. Secure to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Add a countersunk 2” screw through the bottom into the center leg.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown, then secure to the base using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the bottom edge. Attach to the bottom and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the back edge as well as the bottom edge. Note that there will be a left and a right so that the pocket holes are hidden in the drawer area. Position as shown (3/4” back from the front edge), then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the divider trim. Secure to the front edge of the dividers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The edge of the trim that will face the drawer area will be flush with the inside of the dividers.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the back edge and side edges.  Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, sides, stretchers, and back.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions then make any necessary adjustments.

Step 9
Step 9
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the door bases. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the opening. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet.

Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. The center drawer fronts are wider than the false drawer fronts, and the lower drawer fronts are taller than the other drawer fronts.

Install the center drawer fronts first by pre-drilling the holes for the cabinet pull. The upper drawer front will overlap the sides by 3/8”, and the top and bottom by ¼”. Install this drawer front first, then install the remaining center fronts with a ¼” gap between them. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles. Install the cabinet pulls.

The false drawer fronts will line up with the center drawer fronts and will be flush with the sides of the cabinet. Secure to the door using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Mar
31
2014
Project Details

I hope you all had such a lovely weekend! I have been working on such a crazy project for the last several weeks and I'm finally almost ready to share it with you guys. I'm sore, and bruised, and it's going to be soooo amazing! Yahoo! So today's plan is a reader request for a simple wardrobe for storing supplies! Yay, we can all use that, especially me. Only perhaps what I really need is to simply get rid of some of my supplies because they reached hoarder status a long time ago. Ugh. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 24 x 34-1/2” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 24 x 68” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 34-1/2” x 66-1/2” - Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/16” x 66-1/4” - Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the cabinet. The cabinet can be secure in one of two ways – by using a Kreg jig and drilling pocket holes or by using countersunk 2-1/2” screws. If using pocket holes, set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each shorter end of the top and bottom pieces. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

If using the countersunk screw method, drill countersunk holes along each shorter edge of the sides. Secure the top and bottom using glue and 2-1/2” countersunk screws.

Step 2

 Cut the piece for the back. If using the pocket hole screw method, drill pocket holes in all four edges of the back. Position the piece inside the cabinet then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

If using the countersunk screw method, drill countersunk holes along the back edges of the cabinet. Position the back inside, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” screws.

Step 3

 Install the closet rod according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, cutting it to fit (if necessary) using a hacksaw. The rod will be positioned approximately 5” down from the inside of the top.

Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” cap around all sides of the doors in the opening as well as in between them. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls on the doors.

Step 5

 Install the casters according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Mar
28
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this plan is a great one for adding that extra bit of storage when you prefer to go vertical rather than horizontal. Sometimes horizontal wall space is at a premium... especially if you live in my house. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 7 – 1x6 at 8’
  • Scrap of 2x2 at 15-3/4”
  • 3 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  •  4 – 4x4 posts at 46-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x4 at 13” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 13” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 40-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 10 – 1x2 at 13” – Drawer Spacers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 35” x 42-3/4” - Back
  • 5 – 2x4 at 35” - Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x4 at 6-1/2” – Center Drawer Divider
  • 1 – 1x4 at 35” – Upper Stretcher
  • 1 – 2x2 at 15-3/4” – Center Drawer Spacer
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 42” - Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 16-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 12 – 1x6 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1x6 at 15-3/4” – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 32-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 8 – 1x6 at 34” – Large Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/4” x 16-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Fronts
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 34-3/4” – Large Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x4 frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x4 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Secure the frame pieces to the legs, then secure the panel to the legs and the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the panels will be located 1” back from the outside face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the spacers (the side with the pocket holes) will be flush with the inside of the legs.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each shorter edge. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 3

Cut the 2x4 pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the drawer divider and drill pocket holes in the lower end only. Secure to the uppermost stretcher as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the 1x4 piece for the upper stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the upper stretcher into the top of the drawer divider to further secure them in place.

Cut the 2x2 piece for the center drawer spacer. Drill pocket holes in one end only of the 2x2 inner frame piece. Secure to the drawer divider using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the back end of the 2x2 frame piece. The bottom of the drawer spacer will be flush with the top of the stretcher.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the desk frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top. 

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Feb
24
2014
Project Details

Such a handsome girl isn't she! Nice and substantial, a relatively easy build as far as media cabinets and sideboards go. The legs can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal so you don't have to learn how to weld to make this beauty! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
  • Scrap of 2x2 at 2’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 22-3/4” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 69-1/2” - Bottom
  • 5 – 2x2 at 4” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 14-3/4” - Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 22” - Dividers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 22-5/8” - End Stretchers
  • 4 – 1x2 at 22-3/4” – Center Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 22-5/8” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-3/4” x 69-1/2” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 71” - Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 22-5/8” x 23-11/16” - Doors
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20-1/4” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 8 – 1x4 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 8 – 1x4 at 21-3/4” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/8” x 23-3/8” – Center Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 23-3/8” – Top & Bottom Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom. Secure the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front edges of the sides and bottom will be flush. The bottom will be ¾” shorter than the sides. This will allow for the back.

Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 pieces then secure them to the 2x2 legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the leg assemblies to the bottom sides using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws into the top of the 2x2 legs. The leg assemblies will overlap the sides and bottom by ¾” at each end. This will allow for the back and the doors.

Position the remaining 2x2 leg at the center of the bottom. Secure using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges. Treat the pieces as a left and right so that the pocket holes will be hidden in the drawer bank. Position the pieces as indicated in the drawing then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as the back edge. Secure to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front edge of the shelf will be flush with the front edge of the sides and dividers. 

Step 6

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the shorter edges. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the shelves into the back using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the back to the bottom and dividers.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. The front will overhang by ¾”. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides, back, dividers, and stretchers.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the doors so that the sides and bottom are flush with the cabinet. The top edge will be 1/8” to allow for the door to open and close without rubbing on the top.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them flush with the front of the dividers. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 10

Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Starting with the bottom drawer front, position it so that the lower edge is flush with the bottom, and there is a 1/8” between the doors and the sides of the drawer front, then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Continue installing the remaining fronts with a 1/8” gap between them. Install the drawer pulls. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, <a href="http://designsbystudioc.com/easy-way-to-install-drawer-fronts/">click here</a>.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post may contain affiliate links

Jan
13
2014
Project Details

This set of plans is for a Queen sized rustic slatted bed and I'm crushing on this baby a ton! For a gal who adores a bit of modern and vintage, I can still adore a bit of rustic style as well, and this bed is fab! I can't wait to see how you customize this beauty... Happy Building my friends! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 43 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 2’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 9 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x8 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 5 – 2x4 at 17-1/2” – Footboard Frame & Stabilizers
  • 4 – 2x4 at 68” – Footboard & Headboard Frame
  • 23 – 1x3 at 65” – Footboard & Headboard Slats
  • 2 – 2x4 at 40” – Headboard Frame & Stabilizers
  • 2 – 2x8 (ripped to 7-1/4” wide) at 82” – Side Rails
  • 4 – 2x4 at 82” – Side Rails
  • 1 – 2x2 at 82” – Center Support
  • 2 – 2x2 ay 10-1/4” – Center Support Legs
  • 20 – 1x3 at 63” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the footboard frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the footboard slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Assemble as one panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Insert into the frame with the outside face flush with the outside face of the frame, then secure using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the stabilizers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Attach to the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the stabilizers will be flush with the inside face of the frame.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the headboard frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the headboard slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Assemble as one panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Insert into the frame with the outside face flush with the outside face of the frame, then secure using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the stabilizers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Attach to the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the stabilizers will be flush with the inside face of the frame.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side rails. Drill pocket holes in each long edge of the 2x8 pieces. Attach the 2x4 pieces using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the 2x8 will be located 1” in from the inside face of the 2x4 pieces. Install the bed rail hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the center support and legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the support as well as one end of each leg. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the support to the center of the headboard and footboard using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Do not use glue!

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the slats. Position the slats on the lower 2x4 of the side rails and secure using countersunk 1-1/2” screws. Do not use glue!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
20
2013
Project Details

We have such a special treat today my lovely fellow builders! I've teamed up with one of my favorite sweet friends, Lindsay of Makely Home to bring you a gorgeous set of plans! She has worked so very hard on this beauty so I hope you will head over to visit her and gush over her build! She will be sharing more beautiful images and details there! 

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, Miter
  • Drill
  • Brad Nailer or Nail Gun
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 1 1/2 sheets of ¾” plywood (2nd sheet - only need 2'x2' area)
  • 1 sheet 1/2" plywood
  • 1 sheet 1/4" plywood (or if your store will sell you a 1/2 sheet at 2'x8' then awesome)
  • 1- 2x6 at 6'
  • 2- 2x3 at 8' (1 front/back + 2 side per board)
  • 4- 1x6 at 8' (3 at 26  1/2 + 1 at 16 1/4 per board for 2 boards, then 5 at 16 1/4 per board)
  • 2- 1x8 at 8' (3 per board)
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2 ½” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails/finish nails
  • 6- pair of 16" side mount drawer glides that have 1/2" clearance
  •  Edge banding for plywood (or ¾” wood trim)
  • Wood filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4- 2x4 at 7 3/4" legs
  • 4- 2x3 at 15 3/4" frame rails
  • 2- 2x3 at 51 1/4" frame front/back
  • 6- 1x6 at 26 1/2" drawer backs
  • 12- 1x6 at 16 1/4" drawer sides
  • 6- 1x8 at 27 11/16" drawer front
  • 2- 3/4" ply at 20"x22 1/4" sides
  • 2- 3/4" ply at 20"x57 1/4" top/bottom
  • 1- 3/4" ply at 19 1/4" x 22 1/4" center
  • 6- 1/2" ply at 26 1/2" x 5 3/4" drawer faces
  • 6-1/2" ply at 26 1/2" x 17" drawer bottoms
  • 1- 1/4" ply at 57 1/4" x 22 1/4" back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for age

Step 1

Use a 2x6 to cut your leg pieces. Create your guidelines as seen in the second image below and cut as indicated. Use a circular saw if possible.

Step 2

Build your frame. Use 2 ½” pocket hole screws and glue to connect. The outside rails will sit flush against the leg pieces. The inner rails should sit approximately 16 ½” apart, but this is not a crucial dimension, just space them as evenly as possible.

Step 3

Build your Box. The side panels will sit inside the top and bottom panels and they will sit flush on the front, yet set in ¼” on the back side. This will allow for the back panel later. The bottom of your box will overhang your base by ¾” all the way around. Use 1 ¼” pocket hole screws with your pocket hole jig set for ¾” material and your pocket holes along the top and bottom of the panel (on the inside), and glue to fasten.

Step 4

Fasten the Center Panel in Place. The center panel will sit back ¾” on the front side and ¼” on the back side and should be centered as precisely as possible between the side panels. Use 1 ¼” pocket hole screws with your pocket hole jig set for ¾” material and your pocket holes along the top and bottom of the panel, and glue to fasten. 

Step 5

Build Your Drawer Boxes. You will make of these 6 exactly the same way. In step 9, your drawer fronts will differ in their placement for 3 of your 6 drawers, but in this step and the next they are identical. The bottom will sit flush with the outside perimeter of the sides and back and can be secured using your brad nails and glue or 1” wood screws with a countersink bit to predrill and glue.  

Step 6

Secure your Drawer Faces and Attach Drawer Glides. The faces will be cut to size from your ½” plywood, and will sit flush with the drawer box on the top, sides, and bottom. The drawer glide should sit 3” up from the bottom of the box and 1” back from the front edge once the face has been attached.

Step 7

Cut and Notch Your Drawer Fronts. Cut your fronts to size and then notch out the handle area using a jig saw. Do not attach Drawer Fronts to the drawers themselves yet.

Step 8

Attach Drawer Glides to Side and Center Panels. Attach Glides in locations indicated below.  Work from the back for your measurements so they all end up at the same location (the center panel is set back farther than the sides from the front edge, so the dimensions are different from that side).  There will be 1/8” spacing around all edges of each drawer front and the placement of the drawer glides takes this into consideration.  For the bottom and center pair of drawer glides, measurements are from the bottom and back edge of the side and center panels and line up with the bottom edge of the drawer glides. For the top pair 2 of drawer glides the measurements are either from the top and back edge of the side and center panels or the bottom and back edges if you prefer, BUT they should still align with the bottom edge of the drawer glide.  All glides should sit 2 ¼” in from the back edge.  

**Also noted on the diagram below is the relative space each drawer will occupy including the 1/8” spacing on the bottom for each drawer, except for the top drawers which will have an additional 1/8” spacing on the top as well.

Step 9

Insert Drawers. Line up the drawer glides and insert drawers in their respective locations. In the diagram below, the drawer front is attached, however you will actually attach the drawer front once the drawers have been inserted into the unit so you can adjust for any amount you might be ‘off’.

Step 10

Attach Drawer Fronts. You can do this after you have your drawers installed so that you can adjust for any slight discrepancies, but the location of the drawer fronts should be approximately what you see shown below in the diagram. There will be 1/8” spacing between the outside edge of the drawer front and the inside edge of the side panels on your box. There will also be 1/8” spacing above and below each drawer. There will be 1/8” spacing between the left and right drawers as well, but since they divide the space remaining, the overhang on the inside edges of your drawer fronts will be different than on the outside edges so I recommend using the outside edges as your guide.
The Fronts will sit flush with the drawer on the bottom edge, will overhang 1 ½” on the top and 3/8” on the outside edge. The drawer shown below in the diagram would be a drawer for left hand side of your unit if you are facing your unit. These measurements for the overhang will be on the other side for the right hand side drawers. Attach drawer fronts with 1 1/4” brad nails and glue, where the front meets the sides of your drawer box (otherwise the nails will stick out the back of the drawer face).

Step 11

Attach the Back Panel. Use 1 ¼” brad nails and glue to attach your back to the side and center panels. 

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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