Browse all Free Woodworking Plans with an Estimated Cost Between $50-$75

Apr
14
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this gorgeous dining table is both modern and elegant but perhaps best of all, an easy build! I love an easy build, especially these days! I am so excited to show you what I have been working on... If you haven't caught any blurbs so far, there is an update to this post with some important details and I hope some of you will jump on board! It's time to grow the team and make things better here at TDC. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x8 at 6’
  • 3 – 2x8 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’ - Top
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’ - Top
  • 3 – 2x8 at 8’ - Top
  • 4 – 2x3 at 40-1/2” – Top Supports
  • 10 – 2x2 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x6 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x8 at 28-1/2” - Legs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the top and the top supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes along the long edges of each 2x3 support. Working on a flat surface, position each of the boards for the top as shown.  Place the 2x3 supports as shown (with the pocket holes facing each other so that pocket hole screws can be inserted to secure the legs), then secure to each board using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws. 

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Drill pocket holes in the 2x6 and 2x8 pieces as shown. Secure the wider 2x material to the 2x2 pieces ash shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Place the each of the leg assemblies between a pair of the 2x3 supports and secure using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue as the table may have to be taken apart to move it!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post may contain affiliate links

Mar
24
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this fabulous multi-function piece serves as storage, display, and of course easily divides a space into multiple living areas. You know I love a good multi-function piece so this is a no brainer, especially since it's a rather straightforward build! Easy Peasy in fact... Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 3” x 3” posts at 8’ (If 3” x 3” posts cannot be found, 4” x 4” posts can be ripped down on a table saw, or a stacked 1x3 and 2x3 which have been glued together can be used as well.)
  • 3 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1- 2’x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 3” x 3” posts cut at 78-3/4” – Legs
  • 6 – 1x2 at 40-1/2” Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x3 at 40-1/2” - Stretchers
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 40-1/2” – Narrow Shelves
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 40-1/2” – Wider Shelves
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the stretchers will be flush with the front face of the legs. Make two of the assemblies.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the narrower shelves and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure the shelves to the legs and the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the wider shelves and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure the shelves to the legs at the dimensions indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Mar
19
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, the very fabulous Morris Chair! To construct your own cushions using foam, the measurements would be 20" x 24" x 2" for the back cushion and 20" x 24" x 4" for the seat cusion. All I have is spring and the outdoors on my mind, so I envision this might make a nice outdoor chair as well as a classic indoor chair. The original designer just may be rolling over in his grave at the moment, now that I mentioned that, but I believe in using things to their fullest so to heck with it all, ha! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – ¾” dowel rods at 3’
  • 4 – caps to fit on the end of the dowels
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 2 – 3x3 posts at 3’ (or make your own by laminating 2 – 2x4s together then squaring and ripping to size on the table saw)
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x6 at 25-5/16” – Back Legs
  • 2 – 3x3 posts at 27-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1x4 (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) at 20” – Upper Side Frame
  • 2 – 1x6 at 20” – Lower Side Frame
  • 6 – 1x2 at 7” – Side Frame Spindles
  • 1 – 1x6 at 24” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 24” – Seat Frame Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 22-1/2” – Seat Frame Front
  • 2 – 1x2 at 20-3/16” - Seat Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1x2 at 19-5/16” – Seat Frame Support
  • 2 – 1x4 at 33-3/4” – Arm Rests
  • 6 – 1x3 at 24” – Seat Slats
  • 2 – 1x2 at 24-1/2” – Back Frame
  • 6 – 1x3 at 22-1/2” – Back Frame Slats
  • 2 – ¾” dowel rods at 28” – Seat Pivot & Back Adjustment
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

There are several pieces that will have angles cut in the ends or bevels cut on the edges. It may be easiest to mark all of the pieces as they are cut.

Cut the pieces for the back legs, the side frames, the side spindles, and the front legs. The top of the back legs and the front legs will have a 5° angle cut in the top edge. The top frame pieces will be 1x3s that are ripped to 3-1/4” wide, then tapered to 1-1/2” at one end. The taper can be cut using a jigsaw or by using a tapering jig on the table saw. When drilling pocket holes in these two pieces, they will be treated as a right and a left – mark the pieces accordingly.

Using the ¾” paddle bit or hole saw, drill a hole in the back legs as indicated in the drawing. There will be a right piece and a left piece!

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the upper frame pieces, the lower frame pieces, and the spindles. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The inside of the frames will be flush with the inside face of the front 3x3 legs. Don’t forget – there will be a right frame and a left frame!

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the front stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the end frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the stretcher will be flush with the inside face of the front legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat frame. The entire seat will slant to the back by 5°. The front and back pieces will have a 5° bevel cut along one long edge while the side and support frame pieces will have a 5° angle cut in each end. Drill pocket holes in each end of the front frame piece and the center support, then drill pocket holes in the back end only of the side frame pieces. There will be a right and a left side frame piece!

Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the frame to the lower side frame pieces and the front stretcher as shown – the front is located 2-1/4” down from the top of the front stretcher and 4” down from the top of the side stretcher. Secure in place using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the arm rests. Secure to the front legs, back legs, and upper frame piece using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Space them approximately 1” apart, then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws or brad nails.

Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the back frame. Mark the radius in each end of the back frame pieces and cut using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Mark the position for the holes, and cut them using a ¾” paddle bit or hole saw.

Cut the pieces for the back slats. Secure them to the back frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws or brad nails. The upper hole (to adjust the position of the back) should fall in between slats.

Cut one of the ¾” dowel rods. Apply a coat of paste wax on the rod then thread through the hole in one back leg, through the lower holes in the back, and have it come out the hole in the opposite back leg. Glue a cap on each end of the rod so that it doesn’t slip or get pulled out.

Step 7

 The holes in the back legs to adjust the position of the back will be drilled last. They are not shown in the drawing because they have to be positioned in an arc.

To mark the holes, the back should go no farther forward than the front edge of the back leg (basically straight up and down). Mark through the upper hole in the back side frame. For the lowest reclining position, the back edge of the frame should not go any farther back than the back edge of the leg. The center position will be located somewhere in between the forward and back position. Drill the holes using a ¾” paddle bit or hole saw.

Cut the remaining ¾” dowel rod. Apply a coat of paste wax on the rod then thread through the hole in one back leg, through the upper holes in the back frame, and have it come out the hole in the opposite back leg. Glue a cap on ONE end of the rod so that it doesn’t slip or get pulled out – the other end will need to remain free for reclining adjustment.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post may contain affiliate links

Mar
17
2014
Project Details

A great way to store those toys both little and big! You can stack these units up by two or three and add that much more storage to your space. When in doubt always go vertical! You can view our other plans for stylish storage options and plans for coordinating children's furniture too! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These Plans

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – ¼” x 2” lathe strip at 4’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • Scrap of 2x2 at least 16” long
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • ¾” x 1-1/2” trim at 8’ for lower portion (the trim can be made by routing a decorative edge on a 1x2)
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 18-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/8” x 35-1/2” - Bottom
  • 1 – 2x2 at 15-1/4” – Lower Support
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/4” x 35-1/2” - Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 35-1/2” – Lower Front Support
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/4” x 17-1/4” – Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 35-1/2” – Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-3/4” x 38-1/2” - Top
  • 1 – ¼” x 2” lathe strip at 37” – Upper Trim
  • 2 – ¾” x 1-1/2” trim for sides (measure and cut to fit)
  • 1 – ¾” x 1-1/2” trim for front (measure and cut to fit)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut the piece as a square first, then draw out the angles and cut them using a jigsaw or bandsaw.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom and cut a 26° bevel in the front edge. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the lower portion of the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the 2x2 piece for the support. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom into the support.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the bottom as well as the sides. Secure to the bottom and sides of the bin using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the 1x2 piece for the lower front support. Secure to the bottom and sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the divider. Using the same method as the sides, cut the piece as a square first, then cut the angles. Drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges. Secure to the bottom and back of the bin using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the front and cut a 26° bevel in the bottom edge. Secure the piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the front and through the front into the divider.

Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. The sides and front will overhang by ¾” and the back will remain flush. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 9

Cut the lathe strip for the upper trim. Secure to the sides and the divider using glue and 1” brad nails.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the lower trim. No measurements are given because it will depend if the pieces will have a square cut at the ends or a miter cut. Measure and cut the sides to fit first, then measure and cut the front. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Feb
21
2014
Project Details

You know I love an interesting dining table, as evidenced by my most recent build here. I love the intricate seeming nature of this table's base, especially since I know it isn't all that difficult to construct, but would certainly seem so... Xx... Rayan

 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 23 – 1x2 at 8’ (it may be more economical to purchase 8 – 1x6 at 8’ and rip strips on the table saw to 1-1/2” wide)
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 18 – 1x2 at 48” – Base Frame
  • 18 – 1x2 at 14-1/4” – Base Frame
  • 6 – 1x2 at 29-1/4” – Base Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 84” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 38-1/4” – Top Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 41-1/4” x 84” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1x2 pieces. Assemble the frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Draw a ¾” radius at each corner and cut out with a jigsaw. Sand the edges thoroughly.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs.  It will be easier to mark the position for all of the frames on the back side of each leg at the spacing shown (adding for the thickness of the frames), and pre-drill the holes for the screws. Working on a flat surface, attach the legs to the first frame with the bottoms flush, using glue and countersunk 2” screws.  Orient the pocket holes in the frame so they face down. Position the next frame, then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws. Continue “layering” the frames. The last frame should be flush with the top of the legs.

Another tip – cut spacers equal to the distance between the frames to help hold the frames in place as they are being secured.

Step 3

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the top frame. Cut a 45° bevel in one long edge of each piece, as well as each end of the longer 1x2 pieces. Secure to the bottom edge of the plywood piece for the top using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The bevels will face out.

Step 4

With the bottom face of the top facing up, flip the base over and position it on the top. The base will sit 18” in from each side and 12” in from each long edge. Secure using 1-1/2” screws through the upper frame in the base into the top

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Feb
19
2014
Project Image
Project Details

On Monday I shared the plans for the sofa, and today the matching chair! That is pretty exciting my friends, and I feel like we can help usher in the warmer temps just by sending those positive springtime thoughts out into the universe, don't you? A little mind over matter, yeah? No? Well then, I suppose we will just have to settle for living the dream since it doesn't seem the weather is going to cooperate for many of you, any time soon.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 15 – 1x2 at 8’ (It may be cheaper to buy 5 – 1x6 at 8’ then rip them into 1x2 strips on the table saw)
  • 5 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x8 at 4’
  • 1 half sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  •  6- 2x6 (ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 21-3/4” – Legs
  • 1 – 2x2 at 31-1/2” – Back Stretcher
  • 2 – 2x2 at 25-1/2” – Inner Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 34-1/2” – Upper Back
  • 3 – 2x2 at 23” – Seat Supports
  • 2 – 2x2 at 7-3/4” – Inner Side Slat Support
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 26” x 28-1/2” - Seat
  • 2 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 23” – Arms
  • 1 – 1x3 at 25-1/2” – Inner Back Slat
  • 3 – 1x2 at 28-1/2” – Inner Back Slats
  • 2 – 1x3 at 23-3/4” – Inner Side Slats
  • 6 – 1x2 at 23-3/4” – Inner Side Slats
  • 4 – 1x3 at 30-1/2” – Side Slats
  • 18 – 1x2 at 30-1/2” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x3 at 36” – Back & Front Slats
  • 15 – 1x2 at 36” – Back & Front Slats
  • 2 – 1x3 at 6” – Upper Front Slats
  • 6 – 1x2 at 6” – Upper Front Slats
  • 2 – 1x8 (ripped to 6” wide at 32”) - Trim
  • 1 – 1x8 at 36” - Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for two of the legs and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher as well as the top edge and one long edge of each leg.(There will be a left and a right!) Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the remaining two back legs and drill pocket holes in the top edge only. Attach the inner back legs to the outer back legs (in an L shape) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the inner back stretcher and the upper back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher then attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the upper back piece to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the front legs and stretcher, and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher as well as the top edge only of the legs. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the front and inner back stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the inner slat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the outer seat supports as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. They will be positioned ¾” away from the inner back legs.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw, then secure to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the arms and drill pocket holes at one end only. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the inner back slats. The 1x3 slat will be shorter than the 1x2 slats. Position the 1x3 slat between the inner back legs then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The 1x2s will be positioned between the inner back leg and the inner side slat support. Position the 1x2 slats with ½” spacing between them then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws through the support into the slats.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the inner side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the outer side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 9
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the outer back slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the front slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 10
Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the trim. The back trim piece angles should be cut at 39 degrees and the side trim piece angles should be cut at 51 degrees, provided the chair is square! Cut each a piece a little longer than the dimensions and play with the angles if necessary!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. //Posts may contain affiliate links

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