$75-$100

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jocelyn Console Table

05|13|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter

Project Details

Easy to follow, Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jocelyn Console Table! I love this cute little gal and with that bit of storage, she is that much more functional! Love that! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink bit for drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad nailer

Lumber

6 – 2x2 at 8’
1 – 2x3 at 8’
1 scrap of 2x4 at 20”
2 sheets of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
1-1/4” brad nails
1” brad nails
Edge banding for the plywood
2 – Cabinet pulls
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x2 at 35-1/4” – Legs
4 – 2x3 at 20” – Side Frames
4 – 2x2 at 20” – Side Frames
7 – 2x2 at 46” – Back & Front Stretchers
1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 46” – Back Panel
2 – ¾” plywood at 23” x 49” – Shelves
1 – 2x2 at 7” – Center Divider
1 – 2x4 at 20” – Center Support
1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 50” – Top
2 – ¾” plywood at 6-7/8” x 22” – Drawer Front
2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 20” – Drawer Sides (inside)
2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 20” – Drawer Sides (outside)
2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 22” – Drawer Backs

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side frames. Cut the notches in two of the 2x3 pieces as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the two 2x3 pieces with the notches. Drill pocket hole in these pieces as shown. Position the pieces as shown orienting the pocket hole screws so they will be hidden (and not have to be filled). Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and the back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back panel as shown. Secure two of the stretchers to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the back face of the back panel is flush with the inside faces of the stretchers. Secure the panel assembly and remaining stretchers as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut the notches with a jigsaw. Secure the shelves using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the center divider and drill pocket holes in the top edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center support drill pocket holes at each end. The pocket holes for the front edge will have to be close together as the piece will be secured to the 2x2 divider. Position the piece so that it is centered on the 2x2 and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Position the piece so that it overhangs by ½” on each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and stretchers.

Step 7

The drawers are constructed differently than normal. There is a right drawer and a left drawer. The “outside” sides are taller than the “inside” sides. Construct one drawer as shown in the drawings, then reverse the sides for the other drawer.

Cut the pieces for the fronts and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces. Locate the bottom holes in the taller side pieces so that the back can be fastened to it. The “inside” sides will be positioned 3/8” from the top of the front, making the bottom 1-1/2” up from the bottom of the front. The “outside” sides will be positioned 3/8” from the top of the front making the bottom flush with the front. Make sure the pocket holes are facing in! Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. The bottom face will be flush with the bottom edge of the “inside” sides, making it positioned 1-1/2” up from the bottom on the “outside” sides. Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the back and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Rub a coat of paste wax on the bottom edges of the drawers. This will help them slide much easier!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Moreno Bar

05|06|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Moreno Bar! This plan is perfect for those of you who would like to bring a little of that entertaining vibe into your room! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink bit for drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad nailer

Lumber

1 – 1x2 at 6’
2 – 1x3 at 8’
3 – 1x4 at 8’
1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
1 – half sheet of ¾” plywood
1 – full sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
1-1/4” brad nails
1” brad nails
Edge banding for the plywood
1 set of 16” drawer slides
3 – Cabinet pulls
2 sets of hinges for the doors
1 set of hinges for the flip-up top
2 Friction Lid Supports (like these)
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 1x4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 33-1/4” – Side Legs
2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/4” x 30-3/4” plywood – Side Panels
2 – 1x4 at 29-3/4” – Front Legs
1 – 1x4 at 45” – Front Stretcher
1 – ¾” plywood at 34-3/4” x 43-1/2” – Back
3 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/2” x 43-1/2” – Shelves
1 – 1x3 at 27-1/4” – Front Divider
1 – 1x4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 15-1/2” – Top Divider
1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/8” x 16-3/4” – Fixed Top
1 – ¾” plywood at 16-5/8” x 33-3/4” – Flip-Up Top
4 – 1x3 at 12-1/2” – Door Frame
4 – 1x3 at 27-1/8” – Door Frame
2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 22-1/8” – Door Panel
2 – 1x2 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
2 – 1x2 at 9-1/2” – Drawer Front & Back
1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 9-1/2” x 16” – Drawer Bottom
1 – 1x3 at 11” – Drawer Front

Instructions

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the side legs and the side panel. Cut the angle in the leg using a jigsaw. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each long end of the panel, and in one long edge of one leg as shown. Keep in mind, there will be a right side assembly and a left side assembly! Attach the legs to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretcher. Cut the angle in the legs using a jigsaw, and drill pocket holes in the top edge keeping in mind there will be a right and a left. Cut the hole in the stretcher for the drawer using a jigsaw. Attach the legs to each end of the stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the side legs.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the back. Draw a 4” radius at each corner and cut with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in each side edge. Secure the back piece to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back will stand 4” above the side to create a “backsplash”.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in three edges. Secure to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the upper shelf will be flush with the bottom of the upper stretcher.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the front divider and drill pocket holes in the top edge. Secure to the upper stretcher as shown. Add a couple of countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the divider into each of the shelves.

Cut the piece for the top divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the fixed top. Position the piece so that it butts up against the backsplash and overhangs the front and side by ½”. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the flip-up top and install the hinges. There will be a 1/8” gap between the top and the back splash as well as between the top and the fixed top. The front and sides will overhang by ½”.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the doors and drill pocket holes as shown. Install the hinges, then install the doors. Attach the cabinet pulls in the location desired.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces, and assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom using glue and 1” brad nails. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Cut the piece for the drawer front. For another easy tutorial, click here. Install the cabinet pull as desired.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Emmerson Queen Bed

04|11|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Emmerson Queen Bed

Headboard, Footboard, and Sides can be stained in a striped pattern to mimic slats…

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink bit for drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer

Lumber

Two sheets of ¾” plywood
2 – 4x4 at 6’
2 – 1x2 at 6’
15 – 1x3 at 6’
2 – 1x4 at 6’

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
One set of Bed Rail Brackets
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 4x4 at 46” – Headboard Legs
1 – ¾” plywood at 38” x 56” – Headboard Panel
2 – 1x4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 56” – Headboard/Footboard Top
2 – 4x4 at 15-1/2” – Footboard Legs
1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 56” – Footboard Panel
2 – ¾” plywood at 81” – Sides
2 – 1x2 at 77” – Slat Supports
17 – 1x3 at 61-1/2” - Slats

Instructions

Step 1

Apply optional edge banding to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of thepanel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the footboard legs and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the panel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and the slat support. Attach the slat supports to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws leaving 2” at each end for the bed hardware. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the slats. The slats will be spaced approximately 2-1/2” apart. Attach to the supports using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue! The slats may have to be removed at some point to take the bed apart!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Ellsworth Entertaining Cabinet

02|27|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Ellsworth Entertaining Cabinet! This piece has great lines and will satisfy the antique or vintage lovers of you, out there! A Modern build for the furniture lovers of a bygone era!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad nailer

Lumber

2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
One quarter sheet of ½” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Edge banding for exposed edges of plywood
2 sets of hinges
2 cabinet pulls
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/2” x 42” – Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 42” x 46-1/2” – Back
2 – ¾” plywood at 21” x 46-1/2” – Bottom & Shelf
2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” 27-1/4” – Front Frame
1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 41-1/2” – Front Frame
1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 41-1/2” – Front Frame
1 – ¾” plywood at 21-3/4” x 46-1/2” – Top
1 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 48” – Front Apron
1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 46-1/2” – Upper Shelf
4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 15-9/16” – Door Frame
4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 21” – Door Frame
2 – ½” plywood at 15-9/16” x 16” – Door Panels

Instructions

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Maintaining the dimensions shown, cut the curves using a jigsaw.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Cut the curve in the bottom as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelf and the bottom. Drill pocket holes along the two shorter edges and one long edge. Secure in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The shelf and bottom will be positioned ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the horizontal pieces. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach to the front of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes along the two shorter edges and one long edge. Secure in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the top to the top of the frame using 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the front apron. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the upper shelf. Drill pocket holes along the two shorter edges and one long edge. Secure in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Attach the shorter frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame pieces. Attach the side frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. Attach the hinges to the doors, then install in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door as well as in between the two. Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Wisteria Inspired Reclaimed Pine Entertainment Console

02|02|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Wisteria Inspired Reclaimed Pine Entertainment Console. Isn't this gal a stunner? Yahoo, you should totally build this like right now! Actually you really should because it's completely stylish and definitely fabulous... so go, and make some sawdust fly my friends... Xx...Rayan

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

9 – 2x2 at 8’
1 – 1x2 at 6’
4 – 1x4 at 8’
2 – 1x8 at 8’
2 – sheets of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2-1/2” pocket hole screws
Edge banding for plywood, optional
Six sets of 14” drawer slides
Drawer pulls
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x2 at 27-1/2” – Legs
2 – 2x2 at 81” – Front & Back Frame
4 – 2x2 at 26-1/2” – Front & Back Frame
12 – 2x2 at 25” – Front & Back Frame
3 – 3/4” plywood at 20-1/2” x 25” – Back Panel
10 – 2x2 at 14-1/2” – Side Frames & Slide Supports
2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Side Panels
1 – ¾” plywood at 14- 1/2” x 78” – Top
3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 25” – Shelves
6 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 22-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
6 – 1x4 at 13-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Sides
3 – 1x4 at 24” – Smaller Drawer Back
3 – 1x4 at 24-3/4” – Smaller Drawer Front
6 – 1x8 at 13-1/4” – Larger Drawer Sides
3 – 1x8 at 24” – Larger Drawer Back
6 – 1x4 (ripped to 3” wide) at 24-3/4” – Larger Drawer Front
3 – 1x2 at 24-3/4” – Larger Drawer Front

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the back frame. Cut the miters in each end of the top piece as well as the top of each leg piece. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the mitered end of the legs. Also drill pocket holes in the other pieces as shown. The inside leg pieces will have pocket holes drilled in the top only. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the back panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each panel piece. Position the each panel in the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back of each panel will be flush with the back of the frame.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the frame pieces. Attach the sides to the back legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the frame pieces into the legs, and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side panels into the back legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front frame. Cut the miters in each end of the top piece as well as the top of each leg piece. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the mitered end of the legs. Also drill pocket holes in the other pieces as shown. The inside leg pieces will have pocket holes drilled in the top only. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the front frame, sides, and back frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the top will be flush with the top faces of the front, sides, and back.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. The upper supports will be positioned so the top is flush with the top of the corresponding front frame piece. The bottom of the middle and lower supports will be flush with the top of the corresponding frame pieces. Secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the front frame, sides, and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top faces of the front frame.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the fronts of the larger drawers. The fronts will be pieced so they look like the smaller drawers. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the remaining pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer box by 3/8" on each side. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts in the opening. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.. Make any necessary adjustments. Install the drawer pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Lockers

01|15|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Lockers

***Single locker requires 2 sheets of plywood. If building two lockers, a total of three sheets will be required (there will be enough of the second sheet left over to create parts for the second locker).***

You can see above how these pieces will work together once you build a few! Any configuration you want will be fabulous!!!

Estimated Cost

$75-100

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

Scrap of 1x4 at 14-1/2”
2 full sheets of ¾”plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
Edge banding for plywood, optional
One set of hinges
Cabinet pull or handle
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 67-3/4” – Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 15” – Bottom
1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 63-1/2” – Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 16” – Top
1 – 1x4 at 14-1/2” – Kick Plate
3 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Shelves
1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 63-1/4” - Door

Instructions

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will need to be applied before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edges of the sides, as well as the longer edges of the bottom. Position as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides and back into the underside of the top.

Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket hole in each end. The shelves will be positioned ¾” back from the front edge. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the door. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening. Install the hinges on the door, then attach to the cabinet. Install the cabinet pull or handle.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Sarah Shoe Storage

11|16|12

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Sarah Shoe Storage

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer

Lumber

2 sheets of ¾” plywood
1 sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
1 – 1x2 at 6’
1 – 1x4 at 4’

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 86” – Sides
9 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 25” – Shelves & Cubbies
2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 76” – Dividers
2 – 1x2 at 25” – Trim
4 – 1x4 at 7-1/2” – Trim
1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 26-1/2” x 77-1/2” – Back

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides and the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shelf pieces. Set seven of the shelf pieces off to the side for the cubbies. Attach the shelves to the sides at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the trim. Cut a fancy curve or design of your choice in the 1x4 pieces and attach to the 1x2 with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The face of the trim pieces will be flush with one of the edges of the 1x2.

Attach the trim assembly to the cabinet top and bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4

Cut the notches in the shelves for the cubbies as shown with a jigsaw. Attach to the sides at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw. Attach to the cabinet with glue at the spacing indicated and add a few brad nails through the shelf into the dividers.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Restoration Hardware Inspired Dutch Shipyard Media Cabinet

11|14|12

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Restoration Hardware Inspired Dutch Shipyard Media Cabinet *** Inspiration piece is constructed of metal ***

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

2 – 2x2 at 6’
1 – 1x2 at 8’
1 – 1x3 at 3’
1 – 1x4 at 8’
2 sheets of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
3/4” screws
3 – 1/8” x 3/4” angle at 6’
Edge banding for the plywood, optional
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x2 at 28” – Legs
2 – 1x2 at 15” – Side Frames
2 – 1x3 at 15” – Side Frames
2 – 1x4 at 15” – Side Frames
1 – ¾” plywood at 28” x 60” - Back
1 – 1x2 at 60” - Front Stretcher
1 – 1x4 at 60” – Front Stretcher
2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 61-1/2” – Top & Shelf
2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 23-3/4” – Dividers
12 – 1/8” x ¾” angle at 17-1/4” – Drawer & Pullout Supports
2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 22-1/8” – Pullouts
8 – ¾”plywood at 10” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Front & Back
8 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 16-1/2” – Drawer Sides
4 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 16-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾”material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the frame pieces will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter edges of the back piece. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the back will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the stretchers should be flush with the front face of the legs.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut ¾” x ¾” notches in each corner with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes on the underside and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top of the shelf will be flush with the top of the lower stretcher and frame pieces.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the dividers and cut a ¾” x ¾” notch at the top front edge of each piece. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Cut ¾” x ¾” notches in each corner with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes on the underside and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the top will be flush with the top of the upper stretcher and frame pieces.

Step 7

Cut the pieces of angle using a hacksaw. Pre-drill holes in each piece and mount to the inside of the cabinet at the spacing shown using ¾” screws.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the pullouts and insert in the proper openings.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Cut the notch in each of the front pieces using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Bouclier Desk

10|31|12

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Bouclier Desk

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer

Lumber

1 – 2x2 at 8’
1 – 2x2 at 4’
2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Half sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
1-1/4” brad nails
3 sets of 20” drawer slides
5 – drawer knobs or handles
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 23” – Side Panels
1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 53” – Back
3 – ¾” plywood at 9” x 24-1/2” – Drawer Shelves
2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” – 24-1/2” – Drawer Shelf Sides
6 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 18-1/2”” – Drawer Box Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 24-1/2” x 33-1/2” – Center Drawer Shelf
1 – ¾” plywood at 26-3/4” x 57-1/2” - Top
4 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 8”– Small Drawer Boxes Front & Back
2 – ¾” plywood 4” x 32-1/2” at – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
2 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2 x 20” – Larger Drawer Box Sides
2 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 8-1/2” – Larger Drawer Box Front & Back
3 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 8” x 20” – Smaller & Larger Drawer Bottoms
1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 20” x 32-1/2” – Center Drawer Bottom
4 – ¾” plywood at 4-5/8” x 8-3/4” – Smaller & Larger Drawer Fronts
1 – ¾” plywood at ¾” x 8-3/4” – Larger Drawer Filler Piece
1 – ¾” plywood at 4-5/8” x 33-1/4” – Center Drawer Front

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle in the legs as shown using a jigsaw. The angles will face to the inside of the desk.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Cut the notch as shown and drill pocket holes. Attach to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the left side drawer shelf. Drill pocket holes in one long edge of the middle shelf. Drill pocket holes in both long edges of the lower shelf as well as at the back edge of the larger side piece. It will be easier to assemble these pieces to each other before attaching to the desk. Use glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws to attach the side piece and lower shelf to the desk. The middle shelf can be attached to the side panel with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the side panel into the shelf.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the right side drawer shelf. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown and attach to the back and side panels with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the center drawer shelf. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The center shelf will be level with the drawer shelf on the left side.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the top piece into the side and back panels.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket hole screws in each end of the side pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 8

Cut the drawer fronts. For the larger drawer front, the ¾” filler will need to be glued between the two drawer fronts as a sort of “false piece” to balance out the look of the drawer fronts. Pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired King Stria Bed

10|26|12

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired King Stria Bed

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer

Lumber

2 – 2x2 at 6’
6 – 1x2 at 8’
One sheet of ¾” plywood
2 – 1x4 at 8’
15 – 1x3 at 8’
One sheet of ¼” plywood

Materials

1-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
5/8” brad nails
Surface mounted keyhole bed rail brackets (like these)
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 2x2 at 18” – Footboard Legs
2 – 2x2 at 50” – Headboard Legs
4 – 1x2 at 75” – Headboard & Footboard Frames
1 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 75” – Footboard Panel
1 – ¾” plywood at 36-1/2” x 75” – Headboard Panel
2 – 1x4 at 84” – Sides
2 – 1x2 at 81” – Slat Supports
17 – 1x3 at 76-1/2” – Slats
18 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 76-1/2” – Trim Slats

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and headboard/footboard frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws as shown in the drawings.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the headboard/footboard panels. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the frames using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The faces of the panels will be flush with the faces of the frames.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and slat supports. Attach the slat supports to the sides using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the supports will be flush with the bottom of the sides. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.