Browse all Free Woodworking Plans with an Estimated Cost Between $75-$100

Jul
09
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table. This beauty can be adapted to suit your needs, with modifications to make this build that much more unique. This table is suitable for indoor or outdoor use depending on what you choose to construct it out of and how you finish it (hence the mods). Yahoo!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 Sheet 3/4" Plywood
  • 2x4 at 8'
Materials
Cut List

** Your selection of lumber can be chosen to reflect your particular use. For outdoor use, choose something that will wear well such as redwood or cedar if possible (or finish with a good sealant) and if you plan to finish the table top with concrete, you can choose a relatively inexpensive plywood that isn't pretty but will get the job done. 

2 - 48" Round Circles from 3/4" Plywood

4 - 2x4 at 26 1/2" - Legs

1 - 2x4 at 32 1/2" - Frame

2 - 2x4 at 14 1/2" - Frame

1 - 2x4 at 43 1/2" - Base

2 - 2x4 at 20" - Base

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

To enlarge the images in this plan, simply click on the image for each step. 

Step 1

Begin by cutting all of your boards to length and drilling your pocket holes if you choose to use a Kreg Jig for construction. Set your jig for 1 1/2" material and place pocket holes in an unconspicuous location. For the Base pieces these are best at the inside edge of the shorter pieces and facing downward so they aren't seen. You will not need pocket holes on the legs but you will need them on the Frame pieces in a similar manner as with the Base pieces only you will also need them on the outside edges of the shorter pieces and the outside edges of the long piece. You will probably want to place these facing up so that they are hidden once you attach your table top. 

To cut your 48" rounds you can begin by cutting your sheet of plywood in half so that you have 2 pieces that are 48" x 48". Then place a nail in the center (find this by drawing a line from corner to corner on the diagonal) and tie a string around it. Then tie a pencil to the other end so that it is just as long as the distance between your nail and the edge of your plywood (on a flat edge not a corner). Holding your pencil upright, pull your string taught and then draw a circle by simply running it around the outside edge in a circular motion, all the way around. Cut 2 of these out using a jig saw or band saw. 

Once you have cut and drilled your pieces, you will lay them out and fasten as you see below in the diagram. You will use glue and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to connect all of your pieces or you can use your countersink bit and 2 1/2" wood screws to fasten the legs to the Frame pieces.  I wouldn't recommend using this method for attaching the shorter Frame pieces to the longer Frame piece if you can help it since you will have to come up and in at an angle and it's difficult to get your screw sunken deeply enough this way. 

We are working from the top down in constructing the base frame of the table so you will flip your base frame over before attaching the table top to it. 

Constructing the Frame and Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Step 2

Begin this step by attaching the Base Pieces to each other using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue. Just like in the previous step you will want your pocket holes to be inconspicuous so you will have them facing up if your table looks like mine below. Your pocket holes will be place on the inside of the shorter Base pieces to attach them to the longer Base piece. Then you will place this X shape onto your base frame as shown in the previous step. There will be a 4" overhang of the Base pieces to the legs. 

You will then switch to your countersink bit and predrill down through the Base pieces and into the legs. Then fasten in place using glue and your 2 1/2" wood screws. 

Attaching the Base for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Step 3

Once your glue has finished setting up and all of your base frame is assembled, you will focus on securing your 2 table top rounds together using glue and 1 1/4" wood screws in a few select spots. Be sure to countersink for a more finished appearance and just in case you accidentally place a screw where your top meets your base frame. 

Then place your base frame onto your 2 table top rounds and attach using your countersink bit to predrill and your 2 1/2" wood screws. Attach through the Frame pieces in several places all along the length of the frame pieces. Don't make swiss cheese here, but make sure you have your base frame attached to your table top well enough that it doesn't come off when you attempt to flip this upright. 

The top should overhang the base frame by 6 1/4" on all sides. 

Fastening the Table Top in Place for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Step 4

Flip your table upright and either apply edge banding to the table top rounds, fill the edges of your top with wood filler and sand smooth prior to finishing and sealing, or cover the table top with a thin layer of concrete. The idea here would be to simply give it a concrete finish (thin layer) rather than creating an actual concrete table top, which would be extremely heavy and not desirable for this piece. Follow the instructions from the manufacterer of your products for proper directions on the application. 

Optional Concrete Finish for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jul
03
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart. Short on space? Need a versatile piece that you can use inside and outside? This Kitchen Island Cart would be the perfect BBQ companion for you summer soirees and a fabulous addition to your kitchen arsenal! Can't wait to see your builds of this!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 31-1/4” – Legs
  • 8 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 16-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 8 – 1x2 at 40” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 40” – Back Panel
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 40” – Shelf
  • 11 – 1x3 at 16-1/2” – Slats
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 18” – Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/2” x 45” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 17-1/8” - Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 18-5/8” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 20-1/8” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side frame pieces as well as both long edges of the panels. Secure two of the frame pieces to the top and bottom of each panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face out from the panel. Attach the assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

The lower side frame pieces will be positioned on end with the back face flush with the inside face of the legs. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Build the Cart Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame pieces, the back panel, and the back stretchers. Drill pocket holes ine ach end of the frame pieces as well as each end of the stretchers. Secure two of the frame pieces to the top and bottom of the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face out from the panel. Attach the assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

The lower stretchers will be positioned on end with the back face flush with the inside face of the legs. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Diagram of Cart Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the lower front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of each piece will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Instructions for Building the Lower Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 4

Cut the piece for the shelf and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the lower stretchers and frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom face of the shelf will be flush with the bottom of the stretchers and frame pieces.

Instructions for Building the Cart Shelf for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Position them so that there is approximately 1-1/4” spacing between them. Secure to the longer front and back stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.Cut the pieces for the slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Position them so that there is approximately 1-1/4” spacing between them. Secure to the longer front and back stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.Cut the pieces for the slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Position them so that there is approximately 1-1/4” spacing between them. Secure to the longer front and back stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Instructions for attaching the Cart Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the upper front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Instructions for attaching the Front Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 7

 

Cut the piece for the divider. Cut the notch using a jigsaw. Position the divider as shown and secure to the back and front stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the stretchers and through the back.

Instruction for the Cart Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Attaching the Cart Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang all sides by 1”. Secure to the stretchers and legs using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Instructions for cutting and attaching the Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Make any necessary adjustments.

 

Drawer Box Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Drawer Box Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Position the drawer fronts so that ¼” overlaps on all sides, then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

For all drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

To view enlarged images, simply click on them to expand. 

Jun
06
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Project Details

I actually wanted to add a 'woot woot' to the title, but I figured I would restrain myself and show a bit of composure here, you know... like a lady and all. Right. So we are beginning to roll out our mods to some of the popular pieces that many of you have requested we adjust. These mods will accomodate some much less expensive, standard sized and much more readily available cushion options.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Tools
Lumber
  • 4 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 27 1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 33 3/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 36 3/4” – Top
  • 1 – 2x4 at 29” – Top
  • 2 – 2x4 at 22” – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 22” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Seat Support
  • 3 – 1x4 at 24” – Seat Slats
  • 8 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 33 3/4” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Chair Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top. Cut 45 deg. angles in each end of the long piece as well as one end of the short pieces (there will be a left and right). Drill pocket holes in the mitered ends and assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Place on the side assemblies and attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the top of the legs into the top piece.

Chair Seat Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be a 2x4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side stretcher piece to allow for the seat slats. Attach all pieces at the spacing indicated (with the front piece flush with the front of the side frame) to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Chair Seat Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center of the support with 1-1/4” brad nails.

Chair Seat Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Chair Side Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Chair Back Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Chair Back and Pocket Hole Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

May
20
2014

This outdoor piece is one of my personal favorites and with this beautiful showcase is quickly moving up the ladder for reader faves as well! Maybe it will be on our revised Top 10 DIY Outdoor Furniture Plans for next month! I absolutely love the natural finish on this with only a bit of waterseal! Just gorgeous and oh so beachy feeling, don't you think? I am ready for an entirely new set of outdoor party furniture and I can't decide what I would like to build, but this is high on my list now that I'm seeing this beauty! And don't you love that contrasting hardware? Just fabulous... Xx... Rayan

Psst... don't forget you can now post your own showcase posts again and if you share on instagram be sure to follow and tag me @thedesignconfidential and use the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and you just might see your beauty featured on our instalchannel as well. In fact one may have been featured already... go see! 

Apr
21
2014
Project Details

A fabulous nightstand for storage and to set your lighting and a few display items and pretties. This piece sits at a moderate height and will accommodate those of you who don't love a really high nightstand but don't want a tiny little thing either. A nice substantial size and width with a good set of legs, if I do say so... Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 21-1/4” – Legs
  • 8 – 1x2 at 22” – Side Frames, Back Frame, Front Stretchers
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 22” – Side & Back Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22” x 22” - Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 23-1/2” - Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12-1/4” – Drawer Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-1/2” x 26” - Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/4” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x3 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x3 at 11-1/4” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 12” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-3/4” x 15-1/2” - Door
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as all four edges of the panels. Attach the frame pieces to the panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame pieces and back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as all four edges of the panel. Attach the frame pieces to the panel as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Orient the pocket holes so the top stretcher faces up and the lower stretcher faces down. This way, the pocket holes will be hidden and not have to be filled. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position in the cabinet and secure to the lower stretcher, and lower back and side frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the divider and cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the back and bottom edges as shown. These will be hidden in the drawer bank and will not have to be filled. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. The front and side edges will overhang by ½”. Spread glue on the top of the upper stretchers, position the top, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the side and divider. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

Step 10

Cut the piece for the door. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post contains affiliate links

Apr
14
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this gorgeous dining table is both modern and elegant but perhaps best of all, an easy build! I love an easy build, especially these days! I am so excited to show you what I have been working on... If you haven't caught any blurbs so far, there is an update to this post with some important details and I hope some of you will jump on board! It's time to grow the team and make things better here at TDC. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x8 at 6’
  • 3 – 2x8 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’ - Top
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’ - Top
  • 3 – 2x8 at 8’ - Top
  • 4 – 2x3 at 40-1/2” – Top Supports
  • 10 – 2x2 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x6 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x8 at 28-1/2” - Legs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the top and the top supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes along the long edges of each 2x3 support. Working on a flat surface, position each of the boards for the top as shown.  Place the 2x3 supports as shown (with the pocket holes facing each other so that pocket hole screws can be inserted to secure the legs), then secure to each board using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws. 

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Drill pocket holes in the 2x6 and 2x8 pieces as shown. Secure the wider 2x material to the 2x2 pieces ash shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Place the each of the leg assemblies between a pair of the 2x3 supports and secure using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue as the table may have to be taken apart to move it!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post may contain affiliate links

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