Browse all Free Woodworking Plans with an Estimated Cost Between $75-$100

Apr
14
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this gorgeous dining table is both modern and elegant but perhaps best of all, an easy build! I love an easy build, especially these days! I am so excited to show you what I have been working on... If you haven't caught any blurbs so far, there is an update to this post with some important details and I hope some of you will jump on board! It's time to grow the team and make things better here at TDC. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x8 at 6’
  • 3 – 2x8 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’ - Top
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’ - Top
  • 3 – 2x8 at 8’ - Top
  • 4 – 2x3 at 40-1/2” – Top Supports
  • 10 – 2x2 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x6 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x8 at 28-1/2” - Legs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the top and the top supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes along the long edges of each 2x3 support. Working on a flat surface, position each of the boards for the top as shown.  Place the 2x3 supports as shown (with the pocket holes facing each other so that pocket hole screws can be inserted to secure the legs), then secure to each board using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws. 

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Drill pocket holes in the 2x6 and 2x8 pieces as shown. Secure the wider 2x material to the 2x2 pieces ash shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Place the each of the leg assemblies between a pair of the 2x3 supports and secure using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue as the table may have to be taken apart to move it!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post may contain affiliate links

Mar
21
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, a tower shelving unit to use as a stand alone bar! Isn't it dreamy? I absolutely love this idea, you guys are so clever! Ps... we will hopefully have our forum back up and running and (fingers crossed) working better than ever here soon. It will be a place you enjoy hanging out I think and the perfect place for you to request plans, ask questions, and share your amazing knowledge! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 7 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 2 - sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 - 8’ piece of decorative trim approx. ¾” x ¾”
Materials
Cut List
  •  6 – 1x2 at 15” – Lower Shelf Trim & Lower Top
  • 4 – 1x2 at 27” – Lower Shelf Trim
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 27” – Lower Shelves & Lower Top
  • 4 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – Lower Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/8” x 27” – Lower Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 17-3/8” – Lower Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 15” – Drawer Spacers
  • 3 – 1x2 at 27” – Lower Stretchers & Upper Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 12-1/8” – Lower Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 30” – Lower Top Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 49-1/4” – Upper Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 27” x 49-1/4” – Upper Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Upper Side Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 32” – Upper Top
  • Upper trim cut to fit
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/4” x 27” – Upper Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 26” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 26-3/4” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-7/8” x 12-7/8” – Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

 Cut the pieces for the lower shelves, the lower shelf trim, and the lower legs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the trim pieces, as well as all four edges of the shelf pieces. Secure the trim pieces to the shelves using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Secure the shelves to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the lower back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the legs and the upper shelf using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the back piece will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the legs and the upper shelf using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the sides will be flush with the side faces of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers. Position as shown, then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the lower divider. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the stretcher and the shelf trim.

Step 5

 Cut the trim pieces and the panel for the lower top. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the top, as well as each end of the shorter trim pieces. Secure the trim pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the lower top so that it is flush with the legs, sides, back, and stretcher. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the upper legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of two of the legs (for the back) and one end only of the remaining two. Secure them at each corner of the lower top (with the pocket holes facing to the back) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the upper back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the legs and the lower top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the back piece will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the upper top. The piece will overhang by 1” at the sides and front. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the upper trim. There are no dimensions given because it will depend on the type of trim that is chosen. Cut and install the sides first, securing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then cut and install the front.

Step 9

Install the shelving standards on the upper back locating them approximately 8” from the center of the back. (See the manufacturer’s installation instructions) Install the shelf brackets, then cut the shelves and set in place.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer front. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors. Install the hinges on the doors, then mark and install the hinges on the legs. Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Feb
12
2014
Project Details

A bookshelf that has a few drawers is a good looking bookshelf indeed. Not to mention it helps you store and hide those things that are cluttery and not so pretty to display, yahoo! If you want to browse through some of our other plans for bookshelves, we have tons and tons! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x10 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x10 at 8’
  • 4 – 2x3 at 8’ (or 4 – 2x4 ripped down to 2-1/2” wide)
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 – 4’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 4’ x 8’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 43-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 9” x 39-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 4 – 2x3 at 44” – Front Stretchers
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/4” x 44” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 38-1/2” x 44” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 48” - Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 41-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x10 at 10-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x10 at 43” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 43-3/4” – Drawer Front Base
  • 4 – ¼” plywood at 5-7/16” x 21-13/16” – False Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along the long edges of each panel. Secure the panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Position on the front as shown securing with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along all four edges of each panel. Secure the shelves to the front stretcher and cabinet sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers.

Step 4

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes along the 38-1/2” edges. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then secure the shelves to the back using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Position the top so that the front and sides overhang by ½” secured with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them 1” back from the front edge of the legs. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Position the ¼” false drawer fronts on the ¾” base so they are flush with the edges with a 1/8” gap between them. Secure in place with glue and ½” brad nails. Clamps may also be used to hold them in place until the glue dries. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. 

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

/ Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

/ This post may contain affiliate links.

Jan
29
2014
Project Image
Project Details

The vintage mid century modern style of this piece is right on trend my friends! What a great way to bring some stylish functionality into your home. Put a tv on top, or use as a buffet in your dining room. This would even be fabulous as more of a dresser or to store some of your children's toys! Whatever your storage need, this would be a great way to handle it! I hope you give this baby a whirl!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x3 at 12-1/2” – Base Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 at 30” – Base Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 46” - Bottom
  • 4 – 1x3 at 19-9/16” - Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 18” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 44-1/2” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 17-1/4” – Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 15” – Drawer Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 46” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” X 14-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x4 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x4 at 14” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 14-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/16” x 16-1/4” - Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position the base as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the legs. Mark the lines for the angles as shown, and cut using the saw of your choice. Drill pocket holes in the top edge noting that there will be two right legs and two left legs. Butt the legs up against the base frame as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the corner brackets to the legs and fasten to the frame for further security.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges. Secure to the bottom on: form-data; name="field_short_title[0][value]" Arden Sideboard

Step 5

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 6

Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back edge. Position as shown, then secure to the bottom and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 8

Cut the piece for the top and secure to the sides, back, and divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides as well as in between. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

/ Posts may contain affiliate links

Jan
08
2014
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build an Oslo 3 Drawer Dresser. I'm going through a phase in my current design sensibilities that longs for a simplified style of furniture and decor, with a bit of a nod to the past and our design roots as a global society. I am loving pieces like this dresser that aren't fussy and will still stand the test of time with clean lines and minimal detailing. It helps that this fabulous combo also packs a light punch to the old wallet and remains both relatively easy to build and low in cost. Are you craving a more streamlined lifestyle right now too?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 3 – 1x10 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x10 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 34-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Bottom Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 36” – Bottom Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 4-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 34-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 34-1/4” x 34-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 34-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 36” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 32” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x10 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x10 at 33-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 36” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the bottom panel and the bottom frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket hole in each end of the shorter 1x2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom panel. Assemble the panel as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Insert the panel then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the panel will be flush with the top edge of the frame.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Position them on the underside of the bottom snug against the frame in each corner. Secure using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the bottom into the legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges. Secure to the bottom frame locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the bottom frame.

Step 4

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

 Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overhang by ½”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides and back.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Starting with the bottom drawer front, position it with a 1/8” gap at the bottom then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Position the next drawer fronts in the same manner with a 1/8” gap between them and secure the same way. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
02
2014
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Juliette Twin Bed. Plans by special reader request and modified for ease of building for all of you! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 7 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws Bed hardware ( like this )
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 2x2 at 15-3/4” – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – 1x8 at 39” – Footboard
  • 2 – 2x2 at 38-1/4” – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – 1x3 at 39” – Headboard
  • 5 – 1x8 at 39” – Headboard
  • 2 – 1x6 at 75” – Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 72-3/4” – Slat Support
  • 14 – 1x3 at 40-1/2” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the footboard and the legs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x8 piece. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the footboard will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the headboard and legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of three of the 1x8 pieces, each end of the 1x3 piece, and one long end of four of the 1x8 pieces. Assemble the 1x8 pieces to create a large panel positioning the two pieces without pocket holes at each end at the top (the ends will be cut away). To create the decorative arc at the top, use a large sheet of kraft paper measuring 15” wide x 39” long and fold it in half lengthwise. Start at the top of the fold and draw a curvy line to the opposite corner (here is where you can get really creative!!). Use scissors to cut along the line then unfold the paper. This will be the template for the upper portion of the headboard. Position the paper on the headboard panel and trace around the curve with a pencil. Cut out with a jigsaw.

Attach the panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the 1x3 in the same manner as shown.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and the slat supports. Position the slat supports so that the bottom is flush with the bottom of the sides, and locate the pieces approximately 1-1/4” from each edge. Secure the supports to the sides using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Install the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the slats. Position them on the supports, evenly spaced, and fasten in place using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Do not use glue!!

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

drupal counter