Browse all Free Woodworking Plans that Require a Circular Saw

Jan
18
2016
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Sauder Shelf Table
Project Details

I'm back in the saddle my friends, and I have missed you guys and making our sawdust dreams come true. I have been busy with life of course but I have taken on a really fun side project and I can't wait to tell you all about it! I think you will love it!

Today's build is a simple yet statement making piece that is perfect for an end table or nightstand and would be fabulous as an accent table anywhere you need some display and storage.

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. Don't forget... for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$50-$75
Dimensions
Tools
Lumber

1/2 Sheet - 3/4" Plywood or MDF (4' x 4')

2 - 2x3 at 8'

1 - 2x2 at 8'

Materials
Cut List

4 - 2x3 at 24" - Legs

2 - 2x3 at 10" - Base

8 - 2x2 at 10" - Rails

3 - 3/4" Plywood at 24" x 10"

1 - 3/4" Plywood at 24" x 14 1/2"

Instructions

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Create the Leg Base Units. Cut your boards to size and place pocket holes for 1 1/2" material on both ends of each rail and both ends of each base. Secure in place using glue and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Sauder Shelf Table
Step 2

Cut your shelves and your top to size and sand, then place edge banding around all 4 sides if desired. If staining or painting your piece, you may want to do this step now for the shelves and leg units before you assemble them. Secure your shelves in place using glue and your 1 1/4" brad nails or wood screws. If you are using wood screws rather than finish nails, use a countersink bit so your screws sit flush.

You might also secure from underneath using 2" wood screws if you prefer, just keep in mind it will be tight quarters between the rails.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Sauder Shelf Table
Step 3

Secure your top in place using glue and your 1 1/4" brad nails (preferred) or wood screws. You can also attempt to secure from underneath, coming up through the rails with 2" wood screws or nails if you prefer, but it will be a bit tricky to get your drill or nailer in there.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Sauder Shelf Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Dec
14
2015
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Refrigerator
Project Details

We shared plans for the stove and oven, and today the refrigerator, yahoo! We are well on our way to a full functioning gourmet kitchen!

Don't forget to take lots of pictures as you build and share them in a showcase here on the site or post to social media using the hashtag #BuiltTDCTuff. Just be sure to tag me as well so I am sure to see your beautiful hard work!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$125
Dimensions
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Refrigerator
Tools
Lumber

1 - 1x3 at 8'

2 sheets of 1/2" plywood or mdf

1/2 sheet of 1/4" plywood or luann

Materials
Cut List

4 - 1x3 at 17" - Kick Plate and Supports

3 - 1/4" Plywood or Luann at 18" x 1 1/2"  - Vent

2 - 1/4" Plywood or Luann at 13" x 2 1/2" - Door Trim

2 - 1/4" Plywood or Luann at 24 7/16" - Door Trim

2 - 1/2" Plywood or Mdf at 36 1/2" x 14 1/4" - Side Panels

3 - 1/2" Plywood or Mdf at 17" x 14 3/4" - Bottom and Shelves

1 - 1/2" Plywood or Mdf at 18" x 4 1/2" - Vent Board

1 - 1/2" Plywood or Mdf at 29 7/16" x 18" - Door

1 - 1/2" Plywood or Mdf at 17" x 36 1/2" - Back

1 - 1/2" Plywood or Mdf at 18" x 15" - Top

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut your side panels to size and using a jig saw or circular saw (or plunge router or table saw) notch out a small rectangle in the lower corner of your panel. You will need two of these and they should mirror each other. If your plywood or mdf has a face side to it, you will want to pay attention to that so that you have the corner notched out of what will be the front facing section of your side panel.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Refrigerator
Step 2

Attach your kick plate, upper supports, and your lower back support using your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" material and your 1" pocket hole screws and glue. Place your pocket holes on the inside so they aren't seen, and set your kick plate to be flush with the front facing edge of your notch and it will sit inside of your side panels. The upper and lower back support will sit 1/2" back from the back edge.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Refrigerator
Step 3

Fasten your bottom in place using your nail gun and 1 1/4" brad nails or your countersink bit with 1 1/4" wood screws and glue. For the remaining two shelves set your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" material with your 1" pocket hole screws and glue. You can place the 2 upper shelves wherever you see fit, this will depend on how your kiddos want to arrange their fridge and the type of things they will put in it! Just keep in mind that the vent will hang down about 4 1/2" from the top so this will change how high the top shelf seems. I have put the shelves in place with some dimensions that will work, but feel free to change it if you like!

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Refrigerator
Step 4

Cut your vent board to size and fasten to the upper front support using your nail gun and 1" brad nails and glue. You can use 1" wood screws and your countersink bit or simply glue this in place if neither of the previous options work for you. This will sit flush with the top edge of your side panels. Then simply nail and glue the trim pieces directly over the top of the vent board.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Refrigerator
Step 5

Cut your door to size and simply glue on the trim in much the same way you did for the vent board. Hang your door as you would might for a simple cabinet door with your hinges along one side (right or left) and follow manufacturer instructions to do this. You should leave 1/8" between the vent and the top of the door for easy opening and closing.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Refrigerator
Step 6

Attach the back using 1" brad nails or 1" wood screws and glue.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Refrigerator
Step 7

Fasten the top in place using 1" brad nails or wood screws and glue.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Refrigerator
Step 9

Fasten the top in place using 1 1/4" brad nails and glue or 1 1/4" screws if necessary. The top will sit flush on all 4 sides.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Kiddos 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Dec
07
2015
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Stove + Oven
Project Details

Weeee... I am a little late this year with our Handmade Holiday series of gifts, though I knocked out a few good hostess and adult gifts already - so, not all bad I guess. I will try to pump these out quickly in the midst of life, and birthdays... lots and lots of birthdays. Eek. And of course the holidays... which is precisely what you will want these for, no? Luckily this and the other pieces in this Chelsey Play Kitchen collection are easy builds! Seriously, like knock them out in an afternoon or so - easy. So let's get right to it!

Plans for the Chelsey Play Kitchen Refrigerator

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Stove + Oven

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Stove + Oven
Tools
Lumber

1 - 1x3 at 8'

2 sheets of 1/2" plywood or mdf

Materials
Cut List

4 - 1x3 at 17" - Kick Plate and Supports

2 - 1/2" Plywood or Mdf at 22 1/2" x 14 1/2" - Side Panels

1 - 1/2" Plywood or Mdf at 17" x 14 1/2" - Bottom

1 - 1/2" Plywood or Mdf at 17" x 14" - Shelf

1 - 1/2" Plywood or Mdf at 17" x 4" - Range Board

1 - 1/2" Plywood or Mdf at 16 3/4" x 15 1/4" - Door

1 - 1/2" Plywood or Mdf at 18" x 14 1/2" - Top

1 - 1/2" Plywood or Mdf at 18" x 26" - Back

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut your side panels to size and using a jig saw or circular saw (or plunge router or table saw) notch out a small rectangle in the lower corner of your panel. You will need two of these and they should mirror eachother. If your plywood or mdf has a face side to it, you will want to pay attention to that so that you have the corner notched out of what will be the front facing section of your side panel.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Stove + Oven
Step 2

Attach your kick plate and upper front support using your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" material and your 1" pocket hole screws and glue. Place your pocket holes on the inside so they aren't seen, and set your kick plate to be flush with the front facing edge of your notch and will sit inside of your side panels. The upper support will sit 1/2" back from the front edge.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Stove + Oven
Step 3

Attach your back supports using your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" material and your 1" pocket hole screws and glue. Both supports will sit flush with the back edge of the side panels. You can place your pocket holes on the backside facing outward since they will be covered in a later step.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Stove + Oven
Step 4

Fasten your bottom in place using your nail gun and 1 1/4" brad nails or your countersink bit with 1 1/4" wood screws and glue.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Stove + Oven
Step 5

Cut your shelf to size and place pocket holes along the bottom of it. Use your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" material and your 1" pocket hole screws and glue to attach approximately 10 1/2" from the top edge of your side panels. This is a bit subjective so you can place this shelf anywhere it makes sense to you as long as it sits 1/2" back from the front edge of your side panels.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Stove + Oven
Step 6

Fasten the range board in place using your nail gun and 1" brad nails and glue. You can use 1" wood screws and your countersink bit or simply glue this in place if neither of the previous options work for you. This will sit flush with the top edge of your side panels.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Stove + Oven
Step 7

Cut your oven door to size and cut out the center opening. If you would like to attach acrylic to the inside of this, a thin panel that is slightly larger than the opening should work just fine and can be screwed in place using small picture frame screws or something no longer than 1/2". Hang your oven door as you would a cabinet door with your hinges along one side (right or left) and follow manufacturer instructions to do this. You should leave 1/8" all the way around for easy opening and closing.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Stove + Oven
Step 8

Fasten the top in place using 1 1/4" brad nails and glue or 1 1/4" screws if necessary. The top will sit flush on all 4 sides.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Stove + Oven
Step 9

Attach the back using 1 1/4" brad nails or 1 1/4" wood screws and glue.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Stove + Oven
Step 10

Now for the pretty stuff! Finish as desired and attach your burner knobs, grates and add your drawer pull and voila! donzo!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Kiddos 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Nov
06
2015
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a 90 Inch Big Sur Table
Project Details

By special reader request... the 90 inch table! Of course if the 65 Inch is more your speed - plans for that are here.

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. Don't forget... for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$100-$150
Tools
Lumber
  • 3 - 2x12 at 8'
  • 5 - 1x3 at 8'
  • 2 - 6x6 at 6'
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - 6x6 at 30" (Legs)
  • 2 - 1x3 at 23 3/4" (Side Aprons)
  • 6 - 1x3 at 30 1/4" (Table Supports)
  • 2 - 1x3 at 79 1/2" (Front/Back Aprons)
  • 3 - 2x12 at 90 " (Table Tops)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Attach the Side Aprons to the Legs. These will be fastened 1 1/2" from the top of the leg and will sit back 1" from the outside edge of your legs. Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" material and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws with glue.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a 90 Inch Big Sur Table
Step 2

Build the Frame // set your Kreg Jig for 3/4" material and create your pocket holes. Use 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws and Wood Glue to fasten together.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a 90 Inch Big Sur Table
Step 3

Attach the Frame to the Legs // Use 3" Screws and Wood Glue. Frame will sit 1 1/2" from the top edge of the legs and will be centered front to back with a setback of 1" from front edge of legs as well as on the backside.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a 90 Inch Big Sur Table
Step 4

Cut 3 boards to length for the top of your table. Remove a 3 1/2" square from 2 of the corners for 2 of your boards. Use a jig saw, circular saw or router for this. Then attach your table top boards to the frame and aprons using 2" finish nails and glue.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a 90 Inch Big Sur Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Nov
04
2015
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // RH Inspired Printmakers Desk by Zack

I work for an excellent employer that allowed me to build my own desk instead of ordering a pre-fab one from one of the big box retailers. I'm really proud of what I was able to put together as this was my first real foray into furniture-building. There were a couple issues with the assembly order that I found while building from the plan on TDC, but thankfully I was looking far enough ahead to anticipate them and adjust the plans. I finished the desk about 6 weeks ago, but I'll work hard to remember what I encountered. 

For the desk, I got 3/4" maple 7-ply plywood and true cabinetmaker's maple 1x2"s (more on this later). To save on costs, I bought cheaper plywood (13-ply chinese birch) from the same place for the interior pieces (mostly the drawer boxes). I used optimalon's cut optimizer (http://www.optimalon.com/index.htm) to make sure I used wood efficiently. Since I wasn't using traditional dimensional lumber, I bought 200 BF of 1x2" and trimmed it all down to the actual dimensions (3/4"x11 1/12'), then glued the 1x2's together after they have been trimmed on the table saw to get the number of 2x2's I needed.

To save weight and materials, I nixed the full plywood divider, and replaced it with a full frame of 1x2 around the underside of the top assembly. That way, it was easier to install drawer slides later, as well as make adjustments to other portions.

I also put a back on the desk since it wasn't going up against a wall. If you're going to do that, you need to purchase a 3rd sheet of plywood as there won't be enough material with just the two in the list.

This was also my first project with the Kreg Jig, and I loved working with it! I have definitely learned that I need to be more consistent about clamping with screwing together pieces, there are a number of pieces on the desk that don't sit as flush as I would like because I screwed them together without any clamping. Learn from my mistakes!

Speaking of mistakes, you'll notice the top has a sort of cross pattern with 1x2 and plywood panels. That was done because I made a bad cut on the piece meant for the top of the desk. It was a 1/2" too narrow at one end, so I put the 1x2's in as a frame and filled it in with pieces I measured twice and cut once! I wish I had done it right from the beginning, but the end result looks on purpose and I'm happy with it!

I don't know what else to write about the project, but I'd love to answer any questions you may have about the build and the plans from my experience with them!

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // RH Inspired Printmakers Desk by Zack
Estimated Cost 

I spent about $500 on wood, screws, and the Kreg Jig for this project. The 7-ply exterior pieces of plywood were most expensive at $77 each, but they were worth it for the quality. Very good to work with. I bought the wood at Nashville Plywood, in case you're in the area. They were great to work with, even for a rookie like me.

Length of Time 

I worked on this project for about 30 hours total. It would have been shorter if I had a garage, but I had to move stuff (tools and materials) in and out of the house each time I wanted to work on it, so that exacerbated the time and space significantly to build.

Modifications 

I'd avoid the full middle panel and frame it instead with 1x2's. That way, no edge finishing to do on plywood, and it saves a ton of weight without sacrificing any strength or functionality. It also allows to you drill holes in the top to run cable and such without having to remove the drawers. Makes for a cleaner desktop without wires.

I also just screwed the drawer fronts in the normal way, I didn't assemble them per instructions. Fewer screws and less time.

I secured all of the side and back panels by drilling with the Kreg jig instead of doing brad nails or anything like that.

Lumber Used 

I had 200 feet of maple 1x2 that I glued together to make my 2x2's as well as using for the 1x2's./p>

2 4x8 sheets of plywood for top, back, sides, and drawer fronts

1 cheap 4x8 sheet of plywood for drawer boxes (could have probably used less, but have extra to play with now!)

1 sheet of 1/4" plywood for drawer bottoms, plus one extra small piece I had to go back and buy (no way to make the drawer bottoms with just one piece, measurements don't work out)

Finishing Technique 

Brushed on Minwax Early American stain. Will put poly on later, I'm not so good with coasters and know it's only a matter of time!

Additional Project Details 

Read up on ways to make accurate repeat cuts. That's the one thing I had wished I had done, it would have saved many headaches in fitting everything up in the end. Still some things I need to fix in that regard, but having it together with flaws is way better than not having it together.

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // RH Inspired Printmakers Desk by Zack
Oct
21
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Project Details

I am so excited to share this simple multi function project plan with you guys! Part Side Table, part Magazine or anything you like storage and sheer gorgeous piece of furniture and easy to build plans! This Magazine Sling Side Table seems like it would blend seamlessly with any style of decor and is something even a non-sewing gal like myself could handle! Get your saw ready and make some sawdust fly on this beauty!

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$55-$75
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at – 2’x2’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 18-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 15-1/2” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 2x4 at 23-1/2” – Front and Back Aprons
  • 1 – 2x4 at 15-1/2” – Top Support
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 13-1/2”x15-1/2” – Table Top
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 2”x15-1/2” – Sling Supports
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Legs and Side Aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Side Aprons. Secure Side Aprons to the Legs as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Repeat this step twice, once for each side of the Table.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Front and Back Aprons. Drill pocket screws in each end of the Aprons. Attach the Aprons to the Legs as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of the Table as shown in the sketch.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 3

Cut the Top Support. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top Support. Attach the Top Support to the Front and Back Aprons as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the same direction as shown in the sketch.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 4

Cut the piece for the Table Top. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill holes on the underside of the Table Top on all sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. The Table Top will sit 1/2” below the Aprons. Make sure that the pocket holes face the ground as shown in the sketch.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 5

Now it’s time to cut the Sling fabric! Cut your fabric as shown. Turn under long edges of the Sling 1/2”, iron, and then turn it under another 1/2” and iron again. Repeat this process with the short edges of the Sling.

To secure the edges of the fabric, you can use iron-on adhesive, fabric glue, or sew the edges.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Sling Supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Sling Supports. Don’t attach just yet!

Place one of the short ends of the Sling under the Sling Support. Attach the Sling Support with 2-1/2” pocket screws as shown to the Front and Back Aprons. The Sling end should extend 1/2” below the Sling Support. To further avoid the Sling from slipping out of the Sling Support when weighed down with magazines, screw the Sling Support to the adjacent Side Apron with 1-1/4” wood screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 7

Repeat the same process for the other Sling Support. Let the Sling hang down into the opening.

Now all you have to do is grab a seat and a magazine… and relax!

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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