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Sep
02
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Project Details

If you liked the original Nova Sofa, but would love a bit more seating, this Sectional unit is just the ticket! Use the pieces from this collection either indoors or outside and it is equally as wonderful for both, perhaps just styled differently, no?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Tools
Lumber
  • 16 – 1x2 at 8’ (It may be cheaper to buy 2 – 1x6 at 8’ then rip them into 1x2 strips on the table saw)
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x10 at 6’
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x8 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22” – Legs
  • 1 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 23-1/2” – Leg
  • 1 – 2x6 (ripped to 6” wide) at 14” – Leg
  • 1 – 2x2 at 49-1/2” – Back Stretcher
  • 6 – 2x2 at 12-1/2” – Support Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 43-1/2” – Inner Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 52-1/2” – Upper Back
  • 4 – 2x2 at 22-1/2” – Seat Supports
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8” – Inner Side Slat Support
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 25-1/2” x 49-1/2” - Seat
  • 1 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22-1/2” – Arm
  • 1 – 1x3 at 48-3/4” – Inner Back Slat
  • 3 – 1x2 at 50-1/4” – Inner Back Slats
  • 1 – 1x3 at 23-1/4” – Inner Side Slat
  • 3 – 1x2 at 23-1/4” – Inner Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x3 at 30” – Side Slats
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6” – Side Slat
  • 15 – 1x2 at 30” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x2 at 6” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x3 at 54” – Back & Front Slats
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6” – Front Slat
  • 15 – 1x2 at 54” – Back & Front Slats
  • 3 – 1x2 at 6” – Front Slats
  • 1 – 1x10 (ripped to 7-1/2” wide) at 54” – Back Trim
  • 1 – 1x8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 31-1/2” – Left Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for two of the legs, two of the support legs, and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher, one end of the support legs, the top edge of the legs, and one long edge of the legs. (There will be a left and a right!) Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the remaining two back legs and drill pocket holes in the top edge only. Attach the inner back legs to the outer back legs (in an L shape) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut and Fasten Legs Supports and Stretchers using a Miter Saw and Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 2

Cut the pieces for two of the legs, two of the support legs, inner back stretcher and the upper back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher and the top edge of the support legs, then attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the upper back piece to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut and Fasten Legs Supports and Stretcher using Miter Saw and Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front legs, front support legs, and stretcher, and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher, one end of the support legs, and the top edge of the legs. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut and Attach Front Legs Supports and Stetcher using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the front and inner back stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the inner slat support and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the outer seat supports as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. They will be positioned ¾” away from the inner back legs.

Cut and Attach Seat Supports using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Cut and Attach Inner Slat Support using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw, then secure to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Notch Seat using Jig Saw for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Attach Seat using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the arm and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes.

Cut and Fasten the Arm using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the inner back slats. The 1x3 slat will be shorter than the 1x2 slats. Position the 1x3 slat between the inner back leg then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The 1x2s will be positioned between the inner back leg and the inner side slat support. Position the 1x2 slats with ½” spacing between them then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws through the support into the slats.

Cut and Attach Inner Back Slats using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the inner side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Attach Inner Side Slats using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the outer side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Attach Outer Side Slats using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the outer back slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the front slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Attach Outer Back Slats using Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Cut and Attach Front Slats using Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the trim. The angles on the trim are not pretty round numbers, but we can connect the dots to draw them. For the left side trim, measure 7-1/2” down from the outer top corner (your starting point) of the trim piece, make a mark, and draw a perpendicular line across the trim (the end of this line will be your ending point). Draw from your starting point to your ending point, and you will have your needed angle. Likewise for the top trim, measure 6” across from the top left corner (your starting point) of the trim piece, make a mark, and draw a perpendicular line across the trim (the end of this line will be your ending point). Draw from your starting point to your ending point, and you will have your needed angle.  For these angles to work, the chair needs to be square! Cut each a piece a little longer than the dimensions and play with the angles if necessary!

Cut and Fasten Trim for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Aug
29
2014
Top 10 DIY Desk Plans + Back to School Furniture Projects

We survived the first week and a half of First Grade! I mentioned in my Back to School  Blues + Red Hot School Supplies Roundup that Blakey was nervous about starting school and being away for the entire day, every single day. He is always fine after the first 10 minutes, but his anticipation and anxiety was fairly extreme this year. I'm sure those of you who have school aged kiddos know precisely what I mean.

Top 10 DIY Desk Plans + Back to School Furniture Projects 6 - 10

From cool storage compartments to paper holders, these desks offer something special for every type of kiddo and circumstance. If you need a desk that does double duty as storage or play, then we have you covered. If you need to fit big functionality in a not so big space, maybe a pull out writing surface is just the thing... 

6 // Finn Desk 7 // Rowley Desk 8 // Blake Desk + Hutch 9 // Little Sloane Leaning Desk 10 // Carolina Craft Table

Kiddos 
Design 
DIY 
Aug
24
2014
Reader Showcase // Emerson Queen Size Bed

Thank you TDC - My wife and I were able to build a beautiful bed and feel good about not spending $2K! The directions were easy to follow, and the result came out amazing. 

Modifications 

We made a few modifications to the plans - Replacing the plywood headboard with stained pine barn door slats and replacing wood clete with a metal bracket to hold lower support.

Reclaimed Lumber for Reader Showcase // Emerson Queen Size Bed
Finished Build for Reader Showcase // Emerson Queen Size Bed
Close Up and Finish for Reader Showcase // Emerson Queen Size Bed
Aug
19
2014
Reader Showcase // Hendrix Large Desk

My second build from TDC!

Aug
18
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Project Details

I think a Side Table with storage is a perfectly versatile and adaptable piece of furniture. You might use this gorgeous gal as a nightstand, or next to your sofa, and perhaps to create a fabulous design moment on an otherwise empty wall. Mix it up and try this cute friend in a space you might not typically put a side table. You just might love it... Xx... Rayan 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 - 3/4” sheet of plywood at 4’ x 8’  
  • 1 - 3/4” sheet of plywood at 2’ x 4’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 22” x 20” – Table Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 20” x 19” – Table Sides  
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20-1/2” x 17-1/2” – Table Back
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 6” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Dividers
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20” x 20-1/2” – Table Top
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20-3/4” x 22” – Finished Table Top
  • 4 – 2x4 at 3-1/2” x 11-1/4” – Table Legs      
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12” – Front and Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 10” – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Top Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 2-3/4” x 16-1/2” – Top Drawer Sides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 3-1/2” – Top Drawer Frontsand Backs
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 22” x 4-3/4” – Top Drawer FinishedFront  
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/2” x 4-3/4” – Bottom Drawer Sides
  • 4 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 5-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Fronts and Backs
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 22” x 6-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Finished Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the Table Bottom and Sides and attach as shown with glue and pocket screws. 

Cabinet Sides and Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 2

Cut out the Table Back and attach as shown to the Table Sides and Bottom with glue and pocket screws. When the Back is in place, it will leave a 3/4” space at the top for the Table Top.

Side Table Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 3

Cut out the Drawer Dividers and attach as shown on the front edge of the Table Sides with glue and pocket screws. There will be a 4-3/4” space above the Top Drawer Divider and a 6” space above and below the Bottom Drawer Divider.

Side Table Drawer Dividers for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 4

Cut and attach the Table Top to the Table Sides and Table Back with glue and pocket screws. The back of the Table Top will rest on top of the Table Back.

Side Table Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 5

Cut and attach the Finished Table Top to the Table Top as shown with glue and pocket screws. The front of the Finished Table Top will have a 3/4” overhang. 

Finished Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 6

Time to cut out the Table Legs! You will need 4 of these exactly the same. This diagram shows you how to mark out the shape you need for the Table Legs. Use your circular saw to cut this out. If you simply connect the dots between the dimensions outlined below and use a circular saw to make these cuts, you won't have to worry about the actual angle for each corner.

Leg Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Stretchers. Cut a 45 degree angle in each end of the long Stretchers and the short Stretchers. Also drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece (to attach to the bottom of the Table). Secure to the Legs (the top of the Stretchers will be flush with the top of the Legs) using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Side Table Base Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 8

Position the base frame on the bottom of the Table. It will be located 5” in from each side, and 3-1/2” from the front edge. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Bottom Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 9

And now on to the drawers!

  • Cut the pieces for the Top Drawer Bottom and Sides and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
  • Cut and attach the Top Drawer Front and Back Pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

  • Cut and attach the Top Drawer Front to the Drawer Box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The Front will extend 1” above the Drawer Box on the top, 1-1/4” on the sides, and 1/4” on the bottom. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the Drawer Box to help it slide smoothly. Add drawer hardware such as a pull or knob if desired.

 

Top Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Top Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Top Drawer Face for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 10

The next three steps will be repeated twice, since this project has two lower drawers of the same size.

  • Cut the pieces for Bottom Drawer Bottoms and Sides and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
  • Cut and attach the Bottom Drawer Fronts and Back Pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

  • Cut and attach the Bottom Drawer Finished Fronts to the Drawer Boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The Fronts will extend 3/4” above the Drawer Boxes on the top, 1-1/4” on the sides, and 1/4” on the bottom. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the Drawer Box to help it slide smoothly. Add drawer hardware such as a pull or knob if desired.

Bottom Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Bottom Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Bottom Drawer Face for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Aug
15
2014
Reader Showcase // Steppe Dresser for our New Baby!

With a baby on the way, we realized we need some more furniture, pronto. Here's what I built.

Drawers and In Progress Shot for Reader Showcase // Steppe Dresser for our New Baby!
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

About $275

Length of Time 

Two Weeks

Modifications 

Slightly taller drawer boxes, walnut fronts with wood drawer pulls.

Lumber Used 

Birch Ply & Walnut

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