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May
14
2015
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Project Details

Part bunk bed, part play house and if made and finished with the right materials this awesome piece of furniture could be both indoor and outdoor compatible (water seal and all that jazz). If you have been with us here at TDC for any period of time, you probably already know by now that this is my favorite type of build. Multi-functional and the stuff that dreams are made of... Ah, to be a kid again...

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$250-$300
Dimensions
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Tools
Lumber
  • 3 – 2x6 at 8’            
  • 14 – 2x4 at 8’          
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’  
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 5 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 5 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’       
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 58” – Posts                               
  • 2 – 2x4 at 72” – Side Tops                       
  • 2 – 2x4 at 72” – Side Rails                       
  • 2 – 2x4 at 72” – Side Bottoms                 
  • 2 – 2x4 at 19” – Side Short Studs           
  • 2 – 2x6 at 76” – Side Bed Rails              
  • 2 – 1x4 at 76” – Cleats                              
  • 2 – 2x4 at 53” – Side Long Studs                      
  • 2 – 2x4 at 21-1/2” – Rungs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 43” – End Rails                                  
  • 2 – 2x6 at 43” – End Bed Rails                          
  • 2 – 2x4 at 30-1/2” – End Studs              
  • 2 – 2x4 at 43” – End Bottoms                
  • 1 – 2x2 at 79” – Roof Ridge                    
  • 8 – 2x4 at 31” – Rafters                            
  • 12 – 1x3 at 40” – Slats                              
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 27-1/16”x80-1/2” – Upper Back Wall
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 4-1/4”x31-3/4” – Back Wall Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 1-1/4”x72” – Back Wall Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 10-13/16”x80-1/2” – Upper Front Wall
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 48”x80-1/2” – Lower Front Wall
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 46”x80-3/4” – Head Wall
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 1-1/4”x17-1/2” – Door Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 1-3/4”x32-1/2” – Foot Wall Tops
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 2-1/2”x9-3/4” – Foot Wall Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 46”x48” – Foot Wall Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 33-1/4”x80-1/2” – Back Roof
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 4-1/4”x33-1/4” – Small Front Roof
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 55-1/4”x33-1/4” – Large Front Roof

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

For the Back Wall, cut the pieces for the Posts, Side Top, Side Rail, Side Bottom, and Side Short Studs. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Side Top, Side Rail, Side Bottom, and Side Short Studs. Make sure that the pocket holes drilled into the Side Bottom are within the area that will make contact with the Posts. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Side Bed Rail and Cleat. Attach the Cleat to the bottom edge of the Side Bed Rail using 2” Wood Screws. Clamp the Rail/Cleat “set” into place as shown, leaving a 1-1/2” space on each end for the End Rails. The Side Bed Rail, Cleat, and bottom of the Side Rail should be flush with one another. After making sure that everything is completely square and aligned, use a 7/16” Drill Bit to drill through the Side Bed Rail, Cleat, and Post. You should have two holes on each end for the Bolts. Fasten with Carriage Bolts and tighten. 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 3

For the Front Wall, cut the pieces for the Posts, Side Top, Side Bottom, Rungs, and Side Long Studs. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Side Top, Side Bottom, Rungs, and Side Long Studs. Make sure that the pocket holes drilled into the Side Bottom are within the area that will make contact with the Posts. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Side Bed Rail and Cleat. Attach the Cleat to the bottom edge of the Side Bed Rail using 2” Wood Screws. Clamp the Rail/Cleat “set” into place as shown, leaving a 1-1/2” space on each end for the End Rails. The Side Bed Rail, Cleat, and bottom of the Side Rail should be flush with one another. After making sure that everything is completely square and aligned, use a 7/16” Drill Bit to drill through the Side Bed Rail, Cleat, and Post. You should have two holes on each end for the Bolts. Fasten with Carriage Bolts and tighten.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 5

For the Head Wall, cut the pieces for the End Rail, End Bed Rail, End Bottom, and End Stud. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the End Rail, End Bed Rail, End Stud, and End Bottom. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws. 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 6

For the Foot Wall, cut the pieces for the End Rail, End Bed Rail, End Bottom, and End Stud. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the End Rail, End Bed Rail, End Stud, and End Bottom. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws. 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Slats. The Slats will be spaced approximately 4” apart. Attach to the Cleats on each end using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the Rafters and Roof Ridge. Cut the bottom ends of the Rafters at a 45-degree angle as noted. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Rafters. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws. 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Back Wall. If preferred, you can cut the Back Wall out of a solid piece of 3/4” plywood. However, this image shows the Back Wall made of several different pieces – time to use those scrap pieces of 3/4” plywood! Cut the top of the Upper Back Wall at a 45-degree angle. Attach to the back of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws. The Back Wall should be attached to the Bed Frame 1/4” from the ground and have a 3/4” overhang on both sides.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the Front Wall. The Front Wall will be cut in two sections – an Upper and a Lower section since plywood comes in a 48” width. Cut the top of the Upper Front Wall at a 45 degree angle. Make the ladder cut-outs with a drill and jigsaw. For these interior cuts, start at the inside corner of the cut-out and drill a hole slightly larger than the blade of the jigsaw. Insert your jigsaw blade and make your cut. 

When the wall is attached to the Bed Frame, the cut-outs should line up just above a 2x4 for extra support. Attach to the front of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws. The Front Wall should be attached to the Bed Frame 1/4” from the ground and have a 3/4” overhang on both sides.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Head Wall. Attach to the head of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Foot Wall. Attach to the foot of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.

Make the window cut-outs with a drill and jigsaw. For these interior cuts, start at the inside corner of the cut-out and drill a hole slightly larger than the blade of the jigsaw. Insert your jigsaw blade and make your cut.  

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 13

Cut the pieces for the Roof. Each end of the Roof pieces should be cut at a 45-degree angle. Attach to the Rafters and Ridge of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.

That’s it! Experiment with painting the inside of the Bunk Bed a different color than the outside. You can also play around with installing puck or rope lighting… the possibilities are truly endless with this Bunk Bed!

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Apr
06
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Canopy Crib
Project Details

I hope you all had such a Happy Easter! We are officially back from our vacation and I can't wait to share some of the details with you all. I hoped it would be relaxing and allow me to recover a bit more from this nagging infection, and I would say it absolutely did help a bit. But let's be real, relaxing is the opposite of what a vacation with kiddos is all about. My two littles took misbehaving to a whole new level, so naturally I am thinking about an easier time when they were still babies and sleeping like angels in cribs, and not yet talking.... Our first crib plan has been such a hit that we thought we would expand the line and add some other fabulous options to it.

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt a crib for your new little angel. With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$125-$175
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Canopy Crib
Tools
Lumber
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 6 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’ 
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x4 at 28-1/4” – Head and Foot Tops
  • 4 – 2x2 at 70” – Posts
  • 2 – 1x4 at 28-1/4” – Head and Foot Bottoms
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 28-1/4”x37-1/2” – Head Panel
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 28-1/4”x33-1/2” – Foot Panel
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 38-1/4”x53-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 2x2 at 53-1/2” – Side Tops
  • 2 – 1x3 at 53-1/2” – Mattress Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 26-3/4” – Mattress Frame Ends
  • 2 – 2x2 at 52” – Slat Supports
  • 8 – 1x3 at 26-3/4” – Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Posts, Head Top, Head Panel, and Head Bottom. Apply edge banding to exposed plywood edges if desired. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in the ends of the Head Top.  Set the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the sides and bottom of the Head Panel, then in the ends of the Head Bottom. Make sure that the pocket holes drilled into the Head Bottom piece are within the 1-1/2” that will make contact with the Post when assembled. Assemble the Head Bottom and Head Panel as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.  Assemble the Head Top as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. The top sketch is the inside view of the Crib Head and the bottom sketch is the outside view of the Crib Head. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Canopy Crib
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Canopy Crib
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Posts, Foot Top, Foot Panel, and Foot Bottom. Apply edge banding to exposed plywood edges if desired. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in the ends of the Foot Top.  Set the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the sides and bottom of the Foot Panel, then in the ends of the Foot Bottom. Make sure that the pocket holes drilled into the Foot Bottom piece are within the 1-1/2” that will make contact with the Post when assembled. Assemble the Foot Bottom and Foot Panel as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.  Assemble the Foot Top as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. The top sketch is the inside view of the Crib Foot and the bottom sketch is the outside view of the Crib Foot. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Canopy Crib
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Canopy Crib
Step 3

Cut the piece for the Side Panels. Apply edge banding to exposed plywood edges if desired. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the ends of the Side Panels. When drilling the pocket holes, make sure to stagger them so that they do not line up with the pocket holes in the Head Panel (we don’t want any pocket screws to interfere with one another). Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Canopy Crib
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Canopy Crib
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Side Tops. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Side Tops. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. 
 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Canopy Crib
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Mattress Frame Ends and Mattress Frame Sides. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Mattress Frame Ends. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Canopy Crib
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Slat Supports. Attach to the inside of the frame with glue and countersunk 2” wood screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Canopy Crib
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Slats. Attach to the slat supports with countersunk 1-1/4” wood screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Canopy Crib
Step 8

Now it’s time to install the Corner Braces! For this crib, we have 3 positions for the mattress. The first position will be 14-1/4” from the bottom of the Head Panel and Foot Panel, the second position will be 8-1/4” from the bottom of the Head Panel and Foot Panel, and the third position will be set on the Bottom piece.   

For illustrative purposes only, the sketch shows Braces at the top two positions. You will only need Braces at one position on each side. The third position, or lowest position, will not need Braces.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Canopy Crib
Step 9

Here is a sketch of the Braces in action (view from the bottom)! Simply secure your Braces at the desired position, set the Mattress Frame on top of the Braces, and attach the Mattress Frame to the Braces. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Canopy Crib
Step 10

Dress this beautiful Crib up with a canopy and call it done!

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Canopy Crib
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Kiddos 
Living 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Mar
24
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Project Details

Awkward space? No problem. Small Space and need multi-functional furniture? No problem. Check out a few of the many configurations this console is capable of below!

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$25-$75
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’ 
Materials
Cut List
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 7-3/4”x18” – Left Side
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 7-3/4”x18” – Middle
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x16-1/4” – Right Side
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x40-1/4” – Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x39-1/2” – Center Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x30-3/4” – Top
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 7-3/4”x18” – Top Side
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x41” – Extension Top
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 17-3/4”x18” – Extension Side
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 8-1/4”x9-1/4” – Extension Spacer
Instructions

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Left Side, Middle, Right Side, and Bottom. Apply edge banding to exposed areas if desired. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the top and bottom of the Left Side, Middle, and Right Side. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Step 2

Cut the piece for the Center Shelf. Apply edge banding to exposed areas if desired. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the right side of the Center Shelf. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Top and Top Side. Apply edge banding to exposed areas if desired. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Top Side. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Extension Top and Extension Side. Apply edge banding to exposed areas if desired. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in top of the Extension Side. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Step 5

Cut the piece for the Extension Spacer. Apply edge banding to exposed areas if desired. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in top and left side of the Extension Spacer. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Step 6

Now it’s time to put the Extension and the Console together! Simply slide the two pieces together – the Extension will fit right over the Console. The Extension Spacer should have 1/4” gap on the right and bottom of it to allow for “wiggle room” in the Console.  The Extension Spacer will also give the Extension more support, helping it to stay “square.”

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Step 7

Depending on personal preference; you can install small casters, metal guides, etc. on bottom of the Shapeshifter Console. Install as shown per the manufacturer’s instructions. Two Feet will be installed on the Extension, and the other four Feet will be installed on the Console. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Mar
19
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Project Details

You asked, sweet friends... and so you shall receive! This gorgeous plan in a twin sized version! Of course, you generally always 'receive' when you ask for plans, so I suppose this isn't precisely celebratory, but so many wanted this in twin that I think it is high time you get it! Yahoo! We are working on rolling out all of the other hundreds of project requests, so if you are hoping for something specific, stay tuned or feel free to post it in our community forum so I can keep track of what I am supposed to be working on!

If you prefer plans for the Full Sized version, click here.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$250-$300
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Tools
Lumber
  • 18 – 1/2x4 (rip down 1/2” plywood if lumber is unavailable) at 8’
  • 7 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 15 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 4’x8’
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’
Materials
Cut List
  • // Refer to specific steps in this plan before cutting pieces - some pieces are cut with angled ends and their exact
  • 4 – 2x4 at 65-1/2” – Post A
  • 4 – 2x4 at 63-7/16” – Post B
  • 3 – 2x4 at 36-1/4” – Side Top Rail, Side Middle Rail, and Side Bottom Rail
  • 3 – 2x4 at 74” – Back Top Rail, Back Middle Rail, and Back Bottom Rail
  • 2 – 2x4 at 74” – Front Top Rail and Front Bottom Rail
  • 4 – 2x4 at 22-1/2” – Roof Rafters
  • 6 – 2x4 at 43-1/4” – Floor Joists
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 43-1/4” x 78” – Floor
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/4” x 78” – Back Wall
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 28-1/2” x 40” – Front Wall
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/4” x 42-1/4” –Side Bottom Walls
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 18” x 42” – Side Top Walls
  • 6 – 1x2 at 7-1/8” – Front Top Trim
  • 6 – 1x2 at 13” – Front Bottom Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 38-1/8” – Door Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 16-1/2 – Top and Bottom Window Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 15” – Side Window Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 21” – Stair Hanger
  • 2 – 1x4 at 36-1/4” – Side Ledges
  • 10 – 1x2 at 10-3/4” – Side Bottom Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 14-13/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 10-15/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 6-9/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 74” – Back Ledge
  • 9 – 1x2 at 10-3/4” – Back Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 83-1/2” – Roof Ridge
  • 6 – 1/2x4 at 83-1/2” – Purlins
  • 42 – 1/2x4 at 28” – Roof Slats
  • 2 – 1x8 at 31-15/16” – Stair Sides
  • 2 – 1x8 at 18-3/4” – Steps
  • may differ from the measurements listed below. Measurements listed below are PRE-BEVEL dimensions and the actual end measurements will change once cut according to specific steps.

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for Posts A and Posts B as shown.

Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material. Drill pocket holes in the long side of Post A as shown. Assemble Post A to Post B as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Repeat this process again, but in a “mirrored” assembly as shown in the image. Built a total of two sets of these “mirrored” Post pairs.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Rail, Side Middle Rail, and Side Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of all pieces. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Back Top Rail, Back Middle Rail, and Back Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of all pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Front Top Rail and Front Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of both pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Rafters. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the pieces (avoid drilling pocket screws in the Ridge notch area).

Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Floor Joists. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 7

Cut the piece for the floor. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 8

Cut the piece for the Back Wall. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes on the bottom of the Back Wall piece. Assemble as shown with glue  - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Front Wall. Drill pocket holes on the bottoms of the Front Wall pieces. Assemble as shown with glue  - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the Side Bottom Walls. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill pocket holes on the bottoms of the Side Wall pieces. Assemble as shown with glue  - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Walls. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Front Trim, Door Trim, Window Trim, and Stair Hanger. Assemble the Front Trim, Door Trim, and Window Trim as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Stair Hanger and attach with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 13

Cut the pieces for the Side Bottom Trim and Side Bottom Ledges. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Trim. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 14

Cut the pieces for the Back Trim and Back Ledge. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 15

Cut the piece for the Roof Ridge. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, nailed through the Rafters.

Step 16

Cut the pieces for the Purlins. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The ends of the Purlins should extend 1-1/4” past the Rafters.

Step 17
Step 17 Image 

Cut the pieces for the Roof Slats. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Roof Slats should be spaced 1/2” apart from each other and extend approximately 1-1/2” past the Front and Back Rails. The first and last Roof Slats should be flush with the Roof Ridge.

Step 18

Cut the pieces for the Stair Sides and Steps.

Drill pocket holes in the both ends of the steps. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws – make sure the pocket holes face the ground when assembling. Place on the Stair Hanger as shown and climb on in!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Mar
13
2015
Project Details

This cute thing is a handsome fella, don't you think? I love a nightstand with some interest and the spacing between the trunk and the legs is just the thing, I think, to give this guy something extra in the looks department!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$25-$75
Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’ (will have some left over)
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’ (will have some left over)
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’ (will have some left over)
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 4’x4’ 
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 12” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 17” – Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17-1/2” – Center Supports
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 19”x19-1/2” – Cabinet Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 4”x20” – Cabinet Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 3-1/2”x19” – Cabinet Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 20”x20” – Cabinet Top
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 17-1/2”x18-3/4” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 2-1/2”x17-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 3”x18-3/4” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 3-7/8”x18-3/4” – Drawer Front
Instructions

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Have fun and be sure to take pictures along the way, then you can share them with us to gawk over in a showcase post or via social media using the hashtag #builtTDCtuff - just be sure to tag me @thedesignconfidential or @thedesconf so I am sure to see your hard work! Yahoo

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Legs as shown. 

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Aprons. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Apron. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Center Supports. Mark out the curves as shown and cut out with your jigsaw. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Center Support. 

Step 4

Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Just a quick note – paint/stain these supports a different color than the other pieces of the nightstand for a great pop of color. If these pieces are painted a darker color, the top portion of the Nightstand will seem like it’s floating!

Step 5

Cut the piece for the Cabinet Bottom. With the Kreg jig set for 1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each side of the Cabinet Bottom. Attach to the Center Supports as shown with glue and 1” brad nails or wood screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Sides and Cabinet Back. With the Kreg jig set for 1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Cabinet Back. Apply edge banding if desired to the front of the Cabinet Sides. Attach the Cabinet Sides to the Cabinet Bottom as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.

Step 7

Attach the Cabinet Back to the Cabinet Sides as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.

Step 8

Cut the piece for the Cabinet Top. Apply edge banding to all edges if desired. Attach the Cabinet Top to the Cabinet Sides and Cabinet Back as shown with glue and 1” brad nails or wood screws.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for your Drawer Sides, Drawer Bottom, Drawer Back, and Drawer Front. Apply edge banding to all edges of the Drawer Front if desired. These pieces can be secured using 1” brad nails and glue or 1” wood screws with a countersink bit to predrill and glue. Note that the Drawer Front will overhang the Drawer Box on the bottom by 1/2” and on the top by 3/8”.

Step 10

Slide the fully assembled Drawer into the Cabinet as shown. After sanding, staining, and sealing, you may want to apply a coat of paste wax to the bottoms of the Drawer to help it slide smoothly. Add drawer hardware such as a pull or knob if desired. All you have left to do is dress this cutie up with a beautiful lamp, fresh flowers, and a good book!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Mar
10
2015
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Cameron Corner Entertainment Book Shelf

My son just got a TV for the playroom last year for Christmas. He is 7 yrs old. He loves using netflix and playing his Wii U games. I had everything sitting on plastic totes.

I wanted something better and never could find the right stand to go in there. I needed something to last, but looked nice being in the room. 

I cut out some mouse holes (What they look like to me) for the cables to go through. I decided not to paint the back panels becuase I liked the two tone look it gave.

You can't see them that well in the picture, but I drilled holes in the back panel. They are right under each shelf. I did that to help vent some the of the hot air that either gaming system puts out when running for a such a longer period of time. You dont even see them when your looking at the front of it.

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Cameron Corner Entertainment Book Shelf
Estimated Cost 

$100-$120

Length of Time 

3 weeks 

Modifications 

I had to switch to the 1-1/4 pocket hole screws when attaching the legs to the side panels. The 2" screws were splitting my 2x2 legs. 

Lumber Used 

3/4 & 1/4 Oak Plywood

3 2x2 8' 

3 1x2 8' Spruce-Pine-Fir Furring Strip 

Finishing Technique 

Cabot 1-Quart Smoke Paprika Oil Modified Wood Stain (Satin)

 

 

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Cameron Corner Entertainment Book Shelf
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