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Nov
12
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench

We have such a fun lineup this year for our ongoing yearly Handmade Holiday series! Today is all about the little builders and as folks who love to make the sawdust fly, I figure this workbench toy is nothing short of building a legacy for our kids to learn from. I know my boys love to build and then of course tear down, so my gorgeous little baby bird who is now two, would be in heaven with this one. His big brother would probably adore this as well, some things never get old and banging on things with hammers is one of those things! 

The Deets
Finished Project for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$15-$20
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – Quarter Sheet of 1/2” plywood at – 2’x2’ 
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 1x2 at 18” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 9-1/4” – Top and Bottom Side Rails
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19” – Top Shelf Supports
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19” – Bottom Front and Back Rails
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 9-1/4”x19” – Bottom Shelf
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 10-3/4”x19” – Top Shelf
  • 1 – 1x2 at 10-3/4” – Tool Holder
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Legs and the Top and Bottom Side Rails. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top and Bottom Side Rails. Make sure the pocket holes face the inside of the Workbench. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat this step twice, once for each end of the Workbench.

Constructing the Sides for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Top Shelf Supports and Bottom Front and Back Rails. Drill pocket holes in the ends of these 4 pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. The holes should face the inside of the Workbench. The Top Shelf Supports and the Bottom Front and Back Rails should line up with the inside edge of the Legs.

Attach the Shelf Supports for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Step 3

Cut the piece for the Bottom Shelf. Set the Kreg Jig for 1/2” and drill pocket holes in all sides of the Shelf. Align the bottom of the Shelf with the bottom of the Bottom Front and Back Rails and Bottom Side Rails, making sure that the pocket holes face the ground. Assemble as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.

Attach the Bottom Shelf for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Step 4

Cut the Top piece. Secure to the Top Shelf Supports with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Fasten the Top in Place for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Step 5

Drill a series of 3/4” holes as shown. These can be used for hammering dowels (i.e. nails) into the workbench! 

Drill Holes in the Top for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Step 6

Install knobs on one end of the Workbench. We installed one at the top of each Leg, but have fun with it! You can use knobs, hooks, or clips in varying colors and sizes.

Attach the Knobs for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Step 7

Cut the piece for the Tool Holder. Drill a series of 1/2” holes as shown. To create the cutout, first drill your 1/2” holes and then use your jigsaw to cut the rest of the shape. 

Pattern for the Tool Holder for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Step 8

Install the Tool Holder as shown with small L brackets. 

Attach the Tool Holder for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under our terms of service. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Nov
06
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse

The Holidays are quickly approaching and making something special for your little ones is a fabulous way to celebrate! A playhouse that you are excited to add to your home is perfect for all of you style conscious parents out there! I will be posting plans as part of our ongoing Handmade Holiday series, between now and then, and of course we have many plans from the previous years for you to choose from as well. I will be retagging all of our plans that didn't get updated in the move, so check back often to see which project you might like to tackle for your children this year!

The Deets
Finished Project for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$200-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 11 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at – 4’x8’
  • 1 – 1/4” plywood at – 2’x2’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 54” – Front Side Posts
  • 4 – 2x2 at 41-3/4” – Front Side Roof Support, Front Side Top Plate, Front Side Center Rail, and Front Side Bottom Plate
  • 2 – 2x2 at 46-1/4” – Back Side Posts
  • 4 – 2x2 at 41-3/4” - Back Side Roof Support, Back Side Top Plate, Back Side Center Rail, and Back Side Bottom Plate
  • 3 – 2x2 at 41-3/4” - Right Side Top Plate, Right Side Center Rail, and Right Side Bottom Plate
  • 1 – 2x2 at 41-3/4” – Left Side Top Plate
  • 2 – 2x2 at 20” – Left Side Center Rail and Left Side Bottom Plate
  • 1 – 2x2 at 40-1/2” – Left Side Door Frame
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18-3/4” – Back Side Center Posts
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18-3/4” – Right Side Center Posts
  • 1 – 2x2 at 18-3/4” – Front Center Post
  • 2 – 2x2 at 48” – Side Roof Supports
  • 2 – 2x2 at 19-3/4” –Door Frame Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18-1/2” – Door Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-1/2”x16-3/4” – Door Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Left Side Mail Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Left Side Bottom Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Back Side Top Left Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Back Side Bottom Left Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20-1/4” – Back Side Top Right Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 41-3/4”x2-1/2” – Back Side Top Roof Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20-1/4” – Right Side Bottom Left Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Right Side Bottom Right Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 41-3/4”x10-1/4” – Front Top Roof Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20-1/4” – Front Bottom Left Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Front Bottom Right Panel
  • 1 – 1/4” plywood at 18-1/2”x20” – Front Sliding Panel
  • 4 – 1x2 at 41-3/4”– Sliding Panel Guides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 51-1/2”x50-3/4” – Top (use scraps from the 4x8 plywood sheets to create the top) OR get creative and use corrugated panels, strung twinkle lights, etc!
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Front Side Posts, Front Side Roof Support, Front Side Top Plate, Front Side Center Rail, and Front Side Bottom Plate. Cut the Top of the Front Side Posts as shown in the blowup detail – measure 1/4” down on the backside of the pieces and mark it. Cut the angle as shown.  Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Roof Support, Top Plate, Center Rail, and Bottom Plate. Make sure the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Additionally, make sure that the Roof Support does not extend above the cut angle of the Front Side Posts when assembled.

 

Front Framing for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Back Side Posts, Back Side Roof Support, Back Side Top Plate, Back Side Center Rail, and Back Side Bottom Plate. Cut the Top of the Back Side Posts as shown in the blowup detail – measure 1/4” down on the backside of the piece and mark it. Cut the angle as shown.  Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Roof Support, Top Plate, Center Rail, and Bottom Plate. Make sure the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Additionally, make sure that the Roof Support does not extend above the cut angle of the Back Side Posts.

Back Framing for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 3

Cut the piece for the Right Side Top Plate, Right Side Center Rail, and Right Side Bottom Plate. Drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Attach as shown to both the Front Side and the Back Side with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse.

Right Framing for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Left Side Top Plate, Left Side Center Rail, Left Side Bottom Plate, and Left Side Door Frame. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top Plate, Center Rail, and Bottom Plate. Attach as shown to both the Front Frame and the Back Frame with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse.

Left Framing for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Back Side Center Posts. Drill pocket holes in the ends of these pieces and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Back Center Posts for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Right Side Center Posts. Drill pocket holes in the ends of these pieces and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Right Center Posts for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Front Center Post. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Post and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Front Center Posts for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 8

Cut the rough pieces for the Side Roof Supports, approximately 48” in length. Clamp the pieces to the Front and Back Posts so that the Supports follow the angle of the Posts and overhang on each end. Draw a line along the interior side of the Posts with your pencil – this will be the angle that you will need to cut. After cutting the marked angles, drill pocket holes in the ends of these pieces and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse.

Top Slant Piece Detail for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Top Slant Pieces for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Top and Bottom Door Frame, Side Door Frames, and Door Panel. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Side Door Frames and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in all sides of the Door Panel. Again, make sure the pocket holes face the inside of the Playhouse. Center the Door Panel within the Door Frame that was just assembled and attach with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Door Panel should be set back 1/2” from the front and the back of the Door Frame. Attach the hinges to the Door Frame and Post as shown so that there is a constant 1/4” gap on all sides of the door. Attach a knob if desired.

Side Door for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the Left Side Mail Panel and Left Side Bottom Panel.  Drill pilot holes in each corner of the mail slot. Then, cut out the mail slot as shown with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes on all the sides of each Panel (the Kreg jig should still be set for 1/2” material). Attach as shown with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Panels should be centered in their surrounding 2x2 “frames.” Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Side Boxes for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Back Side Top Roof Panel, Back Side Top Left Panel, Back Side Top Right Panel, and Back Side Bottom Left Panel. Drill pocket holes on all the sides of the Panels (the Kreg jig should still be set for 1/2” material). If desired, paint the Top Right and Bottom Left Panels with chalkboard paint. Attach as shown with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Panels should be centered in their surrounding 2x2 “frames.” Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Back Side Boxes for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Right Side Bottom Left Panel and Right Side Bottom Right Panel.  Drill pocket holes on all the sides of the Panels (the Kreg jig should still be set for 1/2” material). Attach as shown with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Panels should be centered in their surrounding 2x2 “frames.” Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Step 13

Cut the pieces for the Front Top Roof Panel and Front Bottom Left and Right Panels. Drill pocket holes on all the sides of the Panels (the Kreg jig should still be set for 1/2” material). If desired, paint the Top Roof Panel with chalkboard paint. Attach as shown with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Panels should be centered in their surrounding 2x2 “frames.” Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Front Boxes for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 14
Step 14 
  • Cut the piece for the Front Sliding Panel. Drill 1” holes as shown on each side of the Panel. If desired, paint the Sliding Panel with chalkboard paint.
  • Cut the pieces for the Sliding Panels Guides. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each ends of the guides. Place the Sliding Panel between the front and back guides on both the top and bottom. Install as shown with glue and 1-1/2” pocket screws. The pocket holes on the guides should face the inside of the Playhouse.
  • There should be a 1/2” space between the guides when installed. 

 

Step 14 Image 
Sliding Board for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Sliding Rails for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Sliding Rail Detail for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 15
Step 15 

Cut the pieces for the Top. There will be approximately a 3” overhang on all sides. Attach to the Playhouse Frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 15 Image 
Top for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Oct
21
2014

I modified the benches to make stools. They work great. The plans were very easy to follow and it looks awesome in the backyard...just in time for the winter, haha.

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

About $60 for the stools and $50-60 for the table.

Length of Time 

Approx 3 days...took me longer because I couldnt do it all at one time. :)

Modifications 
Lumber Used 

White Pine

Finishing Technique 

Thompsons Waterseal

Note
Oct
20
2014

By special reader request, this media console is so very handsome and wants to live in your home... So go forth and build this beautiful baby and make your home that much more stylish! 

The Deets

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 7 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 3/4” plywood at – 4’x8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x19-1/4” – Cabinet Sides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/4”x56” – Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 4 – 2x4 at 6” – Legs
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/2”x56” – Cabinet Back
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/2”x18” – Center Divider
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x37-1/4” – Left Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x18” – Right Shelf
  • 6 – 1x2 at 16” – Door Tops and Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x2 at 18” – Door Sides
  • 27 – 1x2 at 15” – Door Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Sides, Top, and Bottom. Apply edge banding to front edges of all pieces, if desired. Set the Kreg Jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top and Bottom pieces. Make sure the pocket holes will face the inside of the Console. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Legs. You will need 4 of these exactly the same. This diagram shows you how to mark out the shape you need for the Console Legs. Use your circular saw to cut this out. If you simply connect the dots between the dimensions outlined below and use a circular saw to make these cuts, you won't have to worry about the actual angle for each corner.

Attach Legs to the bottom of the Console as shown with glue and 1-3/4” wood screws. The Legs should be placed 3/4” from the Sides of the Console and flush with the front edge of the Console. Insert the wood screws down through the Console Bottom into the Legs so that the screws are hidden. Also, make sure that the screws are countersunk so that they do not interfere with items placed inside the Console.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the Back. Drill pocket holes in each edge of the Back. Attach the Back as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of the Console.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the Center Divider. Drill pocket holes in the top andbottom of the Divider. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocketscrews.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Shelves. Drill pocket holes in the ends of theshelves and assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.There will be an approximate 1/2” space in the back between the shelvesand the Console Back.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Door Tops, Bottoms, and Slats. Drill pocket holesin the ends of the Tops, Bottoms, and Slats. Attach as shown with glueand 1-1/4” pocket screws. There will be a 1/4” gap between each Slat.Repeat this for all three Doors. Remember to keep checking for “square”on each door – each door should measure the same diagonally in bothdirections.

Step 7

Attach hinges as shown at the top and bottom of the Doors and attach tothe Console. There will be a 1/4” space between each installed Door.Add Door hardware such as a pull or knob if desired. 

Step 8
Step 9
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
12
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk

By special reader request, this beauty was a gem to find in our plan request queue! I adore a gorgeous desk plan especially one of this variety of design! I hope you all like it too! 

We have quite a few other free desk plans for your woodworking enjoyment, but in particular I'm currently crushing on the stacked wood timber slat desk, the campaign desk, and the bromley secretaire desk!

Happy building friends, and be sure to enter our Giveaway over here if you haven't already! No sign ups required, just perusing and daydreaming! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood at 4’ x 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood at 2’ x 4’
  • 1/2” dowel at 2’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 27-3/4” (may need to rip 2x4s down to 2-1/2”) – Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 39” – Front and Back Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 41” – Middle Stretcher
  • 2 – 1/2”x3” (may need to purchase 1/2”x4” and rip down to 2-1/2”) at 43-1/2” – Long Top Frame Pieces
  • 3 – 1/2”x3” (may need to purchase 1/2”x4” and rip down to 2-1/2”) at 14-1/2” – Short Top Frame Pieces
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 44” x 20” – Table Top
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14” x 20” – Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20” – Cabinet Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Drawer Guides
  • 1 – 1x2 at 14” – Drawer Divider
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 13-1/2” x 14” – Cabinet Back
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 17” x 3” – Top Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Top Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 2-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Top Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 4” x 13-1/2” – Top Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 17” x 8” – Bottom Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Bottom Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 7-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 8-3/4” x 13-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1/2” dowels at 5” – Top Dowels
  • 4 – 1/2” dowels at 3” – Side Dowels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the lumber for the four Legs at the appropriate length. All four Legs will be cut at an angle on the inside, but two of the legs will need holes drilled in them. Use a 1/2” spade bit to drill holes on the narrow side of the wood in two Legs. It is easier to drill these holes before cutting the wood at an angle, since a flat surface is easier to work with when drilling. Drill the holes approximately 2” deep.

Next, draw out the measurements on all four Legs and cut as shown. The tapered leg will start at 2-1/2” from the top of the Legs. 

Leg Pattern for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
How to Make the Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Front and Back Aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Front and Back Aprons Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Only attach one “drilled” leg on both the Front and the Back Apron. Make sure that the holes face the inside of the project, since 1/2” dowels will be inserted in them at a later step.

Front and Back Aprons with Pocket Hole Screws and the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Side Aprons, and drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Side Aprons using the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Side Stretchers and Middle Stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the Side Stretchers to the Legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the Middle Stretcher to the Side Stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Side Stretchers with Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Middle Stretcher using the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Long Top Frame and Short Top Frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Short Top Frame pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. Next, drill two 1/2” holes all the way through the wood as shown. These holes will receive 1/2” dowels in a later step.

Arrange Top Frame as shown with a 1/4” reveal on each edge. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut Long and Top Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Arrange Top Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 6

Cut the Table Top and secure using glue and 1” screws (screwed from the bottom). The Table Top will extend 1/4” past the Top Frame, and will be flush with the Legs and Aprons.

Table Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Sides. In only one of the Cabinet Sides, drill 1/2” holes approximately 1/4” deep, in each corner as shown.

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Top and Bottom. Drill 1/2” holes in the Cabinet Top as shown at a 1/4” depth.

Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the Top and Bottom Sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cabinet Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Cabinet Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Secure with Pocket hole screws and Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the Drawer Guides. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails (nail from the outside of the Sides). If you want to nail the Drawer Guide from the inside, do so before assembling Cabinet Box (space is limited inside the box), or simply glue and clamp until dry.

Drawer Glides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 9

Cut the piece for the Drawer Divider. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Drawer Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 10

Cut the piece for the Cabinet Back. Drill pocket holes in all sides of the Cabinet Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cabinet Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Top Drawer Sides and Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the front ends of the Top Drawer Sides and in the sides and front of the Top Drawer Bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Top Drawer Back. Drill pocket holes in the ends and bottom of the Top Drawer Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Top Drawer Front. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.  The top of the Front will extend 1/4” above the top of the Drawer and the Bottom will extend 3/4” beyond the bottom of the drawer.

Top Drawer Sides and Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Top Drawer Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Top Drawer Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Drawer Sides and Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the front ends of the Bottom Drawer Sides and in the sides and front of the Bottom Drawer Bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Bottom Drawer Back. Drill pocket holes in the ends and bottom of the Bottom Drawer Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Bottom Drawer Front. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. The top of the Front will extend 1” above the top of the Drawer and the Bottom will be 1/4” above the bottom of the drawer.

Step 13

Now on to the really fun part! Put a nice dab of glue in each drilled hole. The 5” length dowels connect the Cabinet to the Table Frame and the 3” length dowels connect the Cabinet to the Legs. The Cabinet itself should be flush with the front and back of the Desk. The Cabinet side should be 3-1/2” in from the side of the Desk. TIP: Paint the dowels a metallic color before gluing and inserting into the holes.

Desk Assembly for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
03
2014
Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet

I needed something to fill this empty space in my kitchen and the Clara Buffet was perfect! For this project, I chose to use oak, a red stain with brown and black accents, and brushed nickel hardware.

As always, thank you to TDC for the great plans and thanks for reading! Also, check out my blog post (link below) for a lot more build pictures and thoughts on each building step!

Here are images of the piece mostly assembled without the doors or drawers. As you can see, everything has already been finished to avoid tight corners. Drilling the space for the door hinges...this was nerve racking! As you can see I taped around the area to avoid any damage to the rest of the finish. This plus the flange on the hinge hid any defects. You can see the gusset  I added to the top inside edge of the side panels (see modifications section). This is what I secured the top with on the edges and it worked great.

Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Assembly with shelves and drawer frames added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Gusset added to top inside edge of side panels to screw down the top from the beneath for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

Lumber was right over $200. Hardware, drawer slides, hinges, and staining materials were probably another $150 bringing the total to $350. Still a steep discount to the original!

Length of Time 

This is hard to estimate, but I'd say 20+ hours because of all the finishing work. Actual cutting and assembly of the piece was MUCH short and could probably be done in a weekend.

Modifications 

I made a few modifications to the plans for multiple reasons:

Shelves:

First, I eliminated the top set of shelves since they really only serve to enclose the space where the drawers go. Instead I used 1x2's to mimic the front edge of where the top shelves would have been. This provided rigidity to the piece and kept the look the same. 

Second, I had to slice off 3/4" from the indicated depth for the main shelves in the plans. Reason being, the plans call for the shelves to be set back this distance so that the doors can close but all four shelf pieces are dimensioned for the entire depth of the cabinet on the cut sheet.

Legs:

The plans call for 4x4's on the legs but I chose to try and recreate the original legs as closely as possible utilizing hardwood. This was for asthetics only and the original plans could be used with no issues here.

Top Connection:

I realized during assembly that I had not predrilled vertical pocket holes in the side panels to attach the top. Fortunately I had two 3/4" wide pieces of stained/finished plywood that I had sliced off the back of the shevles. I used these as gussets on the top inside edge of the side panels to secure the top from beneath which worked great.

Lumber Used 

As mentioned before, I used oak for almost every piece in the project besides the back for which I used birch plywood, the drawer boxes which are pine, and a couple of non-visible cross braces which are also pine.

Oak is a different animal working with but I really enjoyed the results. Make sure your cordless drills have good batteries! This stuff will eat up a battery real quick!

Finishing Technique 

The finish here was not difficult, but takes time. It consisted of red gel stain, brown glaze, black glaze, and final lacquer with sanding sealer sprayed on between each step. All stains and glazes were brushed on and wiped off.

I chose to prefinish all the individual pieces before assembly to avoid difficulties with tight corners. This had advantages and disadvantages; The former being that we achieved a very uniform and professional finish on the entire piece. Disadvantages to this technique include difficulties surrounding utilization of pocket hole plugs (see my blog), needing a very large space in order to stage all the pieces while drying, and needing to be careful during assembly. 

Gel Stain Added - Kind of red right now!..Glaze to the rescue for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Weighing down the back with all the panels to get the bend out of the plywood! for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Phew that's better; Brown and Black Glazes Added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Drawers and drawer slides added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Final assembled piece with all hardware added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Final assembled piece in new space for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
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