Browse all Free Woodworking Plans that Require a Circular Saw

Jul
31
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Project Details

I know you guys are going to be excited for this beauty! Today we have gorgeous new Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$50-$75
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Tools
Lumber
  • 7 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 38-3/4” – Back Legs
  • 1 – 1x4 at 24-1/2”– Front Apron
  • 2 – 1x4 at 20-3/4” – Front Legs
  • 5 – 1x4 at 24-1/2” – Bottom Seat Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 21-1/2” – Seatback Frame Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 1x4 at 28-1/2” – Seatback Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1x4 at 27” – Seatback Frame Center
  • 7 – 1x4 at 23” – Seatback Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 4-1/4” – Arm Rest Rear Supports              
  • 2 – 1x4 at 30-3/4” – Arm Rests
  • 2 – 1x4 at 3” – Arm Rest Front Supports
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out your Back Legs. You will need 2 of these exactly the same. This diagram shows you how to mark out the shape you need for the Back Legs. Use your circular saw to cut this out. If you simply connect the dots between the dimensions outlined below and use a circular saw to make these cuts, you won't have to worry about the actual angle for each corner. Prepare the Back Legs to be attached to the Front Apron by drilling pocket holes on the inside front end. The ‘front’ of your Back Legs will be the end with only 1 angled cut, and the ‘back’ will be the end with 2 angled cuts. Select a side of the Back Leg to be the ‘inside,’ and make sure that the other Back Leg is the opposite, or a mirror of the first Back Leg.

Back Leg Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 2

Cut out the Front Apron and attach as shown to the Back Legs with glue and pocket screws. When you attach the Front Apron, you will see that it is a little shy of covering the ends of the Back Legs – don’t worry, it will hardly be noticeable since this will be one amazing chair!

Front Apron for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 3

Drill a pair of pocket holes in the top end of the Front Legs (to later attach to the Arm Rests) and another pair of pocket holes approximately 8” down from the top end of each Front Leg, both on the side of the leg that faces the back of the chair. Attach the Front Legs to the Back Legs as shown with pocket screws.

Front Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 4

Attach the Bottom Slats to the Back Legs as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails. The Slats should be spaced 1/4” apart.

Bottom Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 5

Prepare the Seat back Frame pieces for assembly by screwing pocket holes in the ends of the top and bottom pieces and center piece. Assemble the Seat back Frame as shown using pocket screws.

Back Rest Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 6

Attach the Backrest slats to the Backrest Frame as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails. The Slats should be spaced 1/4” apart.

Back Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 7

Lay the entire chair on its side – it’s almost time to attach the Backrest to the chair! Measure 15” from the ends of the back legs as shown. Next, mark a 2-3/4” perpendicular line (lay down painter’s tape and mark on the tape if you do not want to mark on the wood) from this 15” measurement. Draw a 1” line parallel to the long edge of the board in the direction of the chair’s front (this line will be 3/4” from the edge of the board). Draw in the 3rd side of this triangle – you now have the angle for your Backrest – which is a comfy 110°! Repeat this process on the inside of the other Back Leg. 

Backrest Angle for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Attaching the Backrest for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 8

And now it’s time! Line up the Backrest to the Back Legs along the angles that were just drawn. Clamp the pieces together and drill 1/4” holes for the bolts. Insert the bolts and tighten with nuts.

Bolts and Nuts for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 9

Drill pocket holes in one of the 3-1/2” ends of the Arm Rest Rear Supports. Assemble the Arm Rest Rear Supports to the back of the Arm Rests with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails as shown. The Rear Supports should extend 3/4” beyond the side of the Arm Rest. 

Arm Rests for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 10

Attach the Arm Rests to the Front Legs and to the Backrest (via the Arm Rest Rear Supports) as shown with glue and pocket screws, countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails. 

Arm Rest for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 11

Attach the Arm Rest Front Supports to the Front Legs and Arm Rest as shown with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails. 

Front Arm Support for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jul
19
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Project Details

By special reader request, these fabulous Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Dawson Large Desk and perfect for those of you who need a wide solid work surface! I can see this in so many different and gorgeous finishes and with the flip of a drawer pull, this beauty will transform from rustic to vintage and even to modern! Can't wait to see what you do! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 3 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 4x4 posts at 6’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 4x4 posts at 30-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 19-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 19-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” –Upper Side Drawer Spacers
  • 2 – 1x3 at 19-1/2” – Lower Side Drawer Spacers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 61” – Back
  • 1 – 2x4 at 61” – Lower Stretcher
  • 2 – 2x4 at 15” – Lower Drawer Frame Side
  • 2 – 2x4 at 17” – Lower Drawer Frame Bottom
  • 2 – 2x4 at 3-1/2” – Upper Drawer Dividers
  • 1 – 1x4 at 61” – Upper Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x3 at 22-1/4” – Inner Drawer Spacers
  • 2 – 2x2 at 22-1/4” – Inner Panel Frame
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 22-1/4” – Inner Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 26-1/2” x 68” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 16” – Large Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1x3 at 22-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1x3 at 16” – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x3 at 22-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 23” – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 16-3/4” – Large Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 16-3/4” – Smaller Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 23-3/4” – Center Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes on the top frame piece so they face up, and the pocket holes on the lower frame piece will face down. This way, they will be hidden and won’t have to be filled.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the panels to the legs and the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the panels will be located 1” back from the outside face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower drawer spacers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the spacers (the side with the pocket holes) will be flush with the inside of the legs.

Desk Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Desk Side Drawer Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 2

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each shorter edge. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Desk Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 3

Cut the 2x4 piece for the lower stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the lower drawer frames. Drill pocket holes in the upper end only of the 15” pieces, and both ends of the 17” pieces.  Assemble the pieces in an “L” shape (as shown) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Secure the assemblies to the legs and the lower stretcher using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Lower Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Lower Drawer Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in one end only. Secure to the top of the lower stretcher using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the 1x4 piece for the upper stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the upper stretcher into the top of the drawer dividers to further secure them in place.

Upper Drawer Dividers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Upper Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 5

 Cut the 1x4 pieces for the inner drawer spacers and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the vertical lower frame pieces and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The spacer pieces should be flush with the inside face of the vertical pieces to allow for the inner sides to be positioned.

Cut the pieces for the inner panels and 2x2 frame piece. Drill pocket holes in the top and side edges of the panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end only of the 2x2 inner frame piece.

Secure the panel to the frame piece using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panel (without pocket holes) will be flush with the outside face of the 2x2. There will be a left and a right – the pocket holes in the 2x2 pieces will face opposite directions to secure to the vertical lower drawer frame piece.

Secure the inner panel assembly to the back and the vertical lower drawer frame piece. Use glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the inner panel, and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the 2x2 frame piece. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the back end of the 2x2 frame piece. 

Inner Drawer Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Inner Panels with Pocket Holes from Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Installing Inner Panels using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the desk frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top. 

Fastening the Top in Place with a Nail Gun for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Center Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Center Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Large Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Large Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Small Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Small Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jul
09
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table. This beauty can be adapted to suit your needs, with modifications to make this build that much more unique. This table is suitable for indoor or outdoor use depending on what you choose to construct it out of and how you finish it (hence the mods). Yahoo!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 Sheet 3/4" Plywood
  • 2x4 at 8'
Materials
Cut List

** Your selection of lumber can be chosen to reflect your particular use. For outdoor use, choose something that will wear well such as redwood or cedar if possible (or finish with a good sealant) and if you plan to finish the table top with concrete, you can choose a relatively inexpensive plywood that isn't pretty but will get the job done. 

2 - 48" Round Circles from 3/4" Plywood

4 - 2x4 at 26 1/2" - Legs

1 - 2x4 at 32 1/2" - Frame

2 - 2x4 at 14 1/2" - Frame

1 - 2x4 at 43 1/2" - Base

2 - 2x4 at 20" - Base

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

To enlarge the images in this plan, simply click on the image for each step. 

Step 1

Begin by cutting all of your boards to length and drilling your pocket holes if you choose to use a Kreg Jig for construction. Set your jig for 1 1/2" material and place pocket holes in an unconspicuous location. For the Base pieces these are best at the inside edge of the shorter pieces and facing downward so they aren't seen. You will not need pocket holes on the legs but you will need them on the Frame pieces in a similar manner as with the Base pieces only you will also need them on the outside edges of the shorter pieces and the outside edges of the long piece. You will probably want to place these facing up so that they are hidden once you attach your table top. 

To cut your 48" rounds you can begin by cutting your sheet of plywood in half so that you have 2 pieces that are 48" x 48". Then place a nail in the center (find this by drawing a line from corner to corner on the diagonal) and tie a string around it. Then tie a pencil to the other end so that it is just as long as the distance between your nail and the edge of your plywood (on a flat edge not a corner). Holding your pencil upright, pull your string taught and then draw a circle by simply running it around the outside edge in a circular motion, all the way around. Cut 2 of these out using a jig saw or band saw. 

Once you have cut and drilled your pieces, you will lay them out and fasten as you see below in the diagram. You will use glue and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to connect all of your pieces or you can use your countersink bit and 2 1/2" wood screws to fasten the legs to the Frame pieces.  I wouldn't recommend using this method for attaching the shorter Frame pieces to the longer Frame piece if you can help it since you will have to come up and in at an angle and it's difficult to get your screw sunken deeply enough this way. 

We are working from the top down in constructing the base frame of the table so you will flip your base frame over before attaching the table top to it. 

Constructing the Frame and Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Step 2

Begin this step by attaching the Base Pieces to each other using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue. Just like in the previous step you will want your pocket holes to be inconspicuous so you will have them facing up if your table looks like mine below. Your pocket holes will be place on the inside of the shorter Base pieces to attach them to the longer Base piece. Then you will place this X shape onto your base frame as shown in the previous step. There will be a 4" overhang of the Base pieces to the legs. 

You will then switch to your countersink bit and predrill down through the Base pieces and into the legs. Then fasten in place using glue and your 2 1/2" wood screws. 

Attaching the Base for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Step 3

Once your glue has finished setting up and all of your base frame is assembled, you will focus on securing your 2 table top rounds together using glue and 1 1/4" wood screws in a few select spots. Be sure to countersink for a more finished appearance and just in case you accidentally place a screw where your top meets your base frame. 

Then place your base frame onto your 2 table top rounds and attach using your countersink bit to predrill and your 2 1/2" wood screws. Attach through the Frame pieces in several places all along the length of the frame pieces. Don't make swiss cheese here, but make sure you have your base frame attached to your table top well enough that it doesn't come off when you attempt to flip this upright. 

The top should overhang the base frame by 6 1/4" on all sides. 

Fastening the Table Top in Place for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Step 4

Flip your table upright and either apply edge banding to the table top rounds, fill the edges of your top with wood filler and sand smooth prior to finishing and sealing, or cover the table top with a thin layer of concrete. The idea here would be to simply give it a concrete finish (thin layer) rather than creating an actual concrete table top, which would be extremely heavy and not desirable for this piece. Follow the instructions from the manufacterer of your products for proper directions on the application. 

Optional Concrete Finish for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jun
20
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Project Details

We are slowly (very slowly) making our way through the outdoor pieces with cushions to accomodate less expensive cushion options, and today's plan is our next victim! We covered the matching Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Chair with Modifications for Cushions from Target and now we do exactly the same for the sofa! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 6 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 27 1/4"  – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 33 3/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 36 3/4” – Top
  • 1 – 2x4 at 73” – Top
  • 2 – 2x4 at 66” – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 66” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 9” – Center Leg
  • 9 – 1x4 at 24” – Seat Slats
  • 8 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Side Slats
  • 9 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 33 3/4” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top. Cut 45 deg. angles in each end of the long piece as well as one end of the short pieces (there will be a left and right). Drill pocket holes in the mitered ends and assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Place on the side assemblies and attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the top of the legs into the top piece.

Sofa Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be a 2x4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side stretcher piece to allow for the seat slats. Attach the leg piece at the center using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach all pieces at the spacing indicated (with the front piece flush with the front of the side frame) to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Seat Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center of the support with 1-1/4” brad nails.

Sofa Seat Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Side Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Back Slat for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Sofa Back Slat for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jun
13
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Project Details

While we are hard at work reenginering most of our outdoor seating and lounge plans to work with less expensive cushions, I thought I would bring you a gorgeous modern buffet build! This large piece would be fabulous in an entryway or whever you need extra strorage including it's potential use in a bedroom and as a place to set your tv! A buffet is ust so versitile really, don't you think? 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 9 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 56-1/2” – Base Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 13” – Base Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 58-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 31-3/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 31-3/4” x 57” – Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 57” – Lower Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x2 at 24” – Lower Dividers
  • 6 – 2x2 at 15-3/4” – Shelf Supports & Drawer Slide Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 57” – Shelf
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6-1/4” – Upper Dividers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 58-1/2” – Upper Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 58-1/2” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 17” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 36 – 1x3 at 19-1/4” – Drawer Front Slats & Door Slats
  • 6 – 1x3 at 23-3/4” – Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Base Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position on the base so that 1” overlaps the sides and back (1/4” will overlap the front edge). Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Buffet Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each of the shorter edges. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Buffet Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Buffet Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 5

Cut the piece for the lower stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the lower dividers and shelf supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the dividers. Attach to the bottom and lower stretcher as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the shelf supports as shown. Secure the outer supports to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the outer face of the sides into the support. Secure the inner supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the dividers and back into the ends of the supports.

DIY Buffet Lower Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
DIY Buffet Lower Divider Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 6

Cut the piece for the shelf. Position as shown, then secure to the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Buffet Shelf for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the upper dividers and supports. Drill pocket holes in one end only of the dividers and secure to the lower stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the drawer slide supports as shown. Secure the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the dividers and back into the ends of the supports.

Upper Divider Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 8

Cut the piece for the upper stretcher. Secure to the cabinet sides and upper dividers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the front by ½”. Secure to the sides, back, and upper stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Install the drawer, then make any necessary adjustments.

Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer front slats. Install the front slats on the outer drawers first. The outside edge of the pieces will be flush with the outer face of the sides and there will be a 1/8” gap between the upper slat and the upper stretcher. Position the slats as indicated then secure to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the slats into the drawer boxes. There will be a 3/8” gap between the outer drawer front slats and the center drawer front slats with a 1/8” gap between the upper slat and the upper stretcher. Position the slats as indicated then secure to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the slats into the drawer boxes.

Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the doors. Position the slats as indicated in the drawing. Secure the vertical pieces using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Install the European hinges according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Install the outer doors first, with the outside edges flush with the outside face of the sides. The bottom edge of the doors will be flush with the bottom. Make any necessary adjustments.

Install the center door with a 3/8” gap between the outer doors and the center door using the regular cabinet hinges mounted to the face of the divider. Make any necessary adjustments.

Door for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Doors for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jun
02
2014
Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Parquetry Dresser Herringbone Chest

Building with Rayan's plan was so simple.

Since buying 1/4" Walnut or Teak were out of my budget, I got creative and used Ikea Decking Tiles to create the Herringbone drawer fronts.  I made modifications to make the dresser taller and longer.  The paint and wood combination was inspired by Rayan's Sketch Up drawing. You can visit my blog for a very thorough tutorial on how I built this dresser. http://www.thepursuitofhandyness.com/diy-herringbone-chest-reveal/

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

$150 if you use the cheaper Euro Slides.

Length of Time 

2 days to build but a week to finish. 

Modifications 

I modified my dresser/chest to 40"w x 34"h x 18"d.  This required modifications of every board.  I also built my drawer boxes of 1/2" plywood and secured with pocket holes in the front so that they will be hidden by the drawer fronts. 

Lumber Used 

Birch Hardwood Plywood

Solid Acacia

Pine 1x3 

Finishing Technique 

Paint and Polyurethane on the carcass and Tung oil on the drawer fronts.

Parquetry Herringbone Chest without drawer fronts.
Parquetry Herringbone Chest Front
Parquetry Herringbone Chest angle
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