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Ok now back to our regularly schedule programming... These components are designed to work with steel shelving standards and brackets similar to these where screws can be inserted through the bottom of the bracket into the component. The single drawer components can be stacked and secured together…
$25-$50
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom edges of the side pieces. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and the back.
Cut the piece for the drawer front. Cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. Cut the pieces for the sides, bottom, and back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. The box will be placed on the shelving brackets then secured with screws through the bracket into the box.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Offset Bench
$50-$75
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the left (shorter) side. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the right (taller) side. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the slide support. Attach to the right side frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back stretchers. Cut the notch in the upper stretcher as shown using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces and position on the legs as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front stretcher. Cut the notch in the stretcher as shown using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher and position on the legs as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the divider. Cut the notch using a jigsaw or bandsaw, then drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the front and back aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the seat supports. The 1x2 support will be positioned on the divider as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holescrews.
Position the 1x3 supports and secure in the same manner.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the divider, back, and right side frame.
Cut the piece for the seat. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the supports, back, front, and left side frame.
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer box by 3/8" on each side. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Create the box cushion for the seat. For an easy tutorial, click here.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Design Workshop File Cabinet Components! Moving right along through this fun and industrial collection of modular office (or closet) pieces!
Cut the pieces for the bottom and back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the back piece. Attach to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating it ¾” down from the top and ¾” up from the bottom.
Cut the piece for the top, bottom, and shelf. Drill pocket holes in each end of the top and bottom piece. Drill pocket holes in three edges of the shelf. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Cut the notch in the front of each piece using a jigsaw.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts.
Attach the casters to the bottom of the cabinet.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Wisteria Inspired Reclaimed Pine Entertainment Console. Isn't this gal a stunner? Yahoo, you should totally build this like right now! Actually you really should because it's completely stylish and definitely fabulous... so go, and make some sawdust fly my friends... Xx...Rayan
Cut the pieces for the back frame. Cut the miters in each end of the top piece as well as the top of each leg piece. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the mitered end of the legs. Also drill pocket holes in the other pieces as shown. The inside leg pieces will have pocket holes drilled in the top only. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each panel piece. Position the each panel in the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back of each panel will be flush with the back of the frame.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the frame pieces. Attach the sides to the back legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the frame pieces into the legs, and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side panels into the back legs.
Cut the pieces for the front frame. Cut the miters in each end of the top piece as well as the top of each leg piece. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the mitered end of the legs. Also drill pocket holes in the other pieces as shown. The inside leg pieces will have pocket holes drilled in the top only. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the front frame, sides, and back frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the top will be flush with the top faces of the front, sides, and back.
Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. The upper supports will be positioned so the top is flush with the top of the corresponding front frame piece. The bottom of the middle and lower supports will be flush with the top of the corresponding frame pieces. Secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the front frame, sides, and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top faces of the front frame.
Cut the pieces for the fronts of the larger drawers. The fronts will be pieced so they look like the smaller drawers. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the remaining pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer box by 3/8" on each side. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts in the opening. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.. Make any necessary adjustments. Install the drawer pulls.
These components are designed to work with steel shelving standards and brackets similar to these where screws can be inserted through the bottom of the bracket into the component.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges of the side pieces. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the back piece. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides and back into the top.
Cut the pieces for the doors. Attach the hinges to the doors, then attach the hinges to the cabinet. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors as well as in between. Install the cabinet pulls.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Design Workshop Open Cabinet Component! We are starting a new modular series... yipee! My fave! These components are designed to work with steel shelving standards and brackets similar to these where screws can be inserted through the bottom of the bracket into the component. Xx... Rayan
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Jacqueline Dresser. To me, this piece is both substantialy and dainty at the same time. It's that classic look of a traditional piece with french lines made to stand the test of time. love.... Xx... Rayan
$100-$150
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out (one set toward the top and one set toward the bottom). This is so they will be hidden and won’t have to be filled!
Attach the side panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the plywood panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Also, the pocket holes on the frame pieces should be positioned so they are facing out.
Attach the back assembly to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top stretcher should be positioned so the pocket holes are facing up while the others are positioned so the pocket holes face down.
Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, it will need to be applied to the top before the top is secured. The sides will overlap by ½” at each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the side panels, back panel, and front stretcher.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Apply edge banding to all four edges of the front, if desired. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the side pieces to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Then attach the front and back pieces. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Install the knobs or handles.
Cut the pieces for the sides of the hutch. Maintain the dimensions shown in the drawing and draw a line to cut a decorative curve using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the lower edge of the pieces – keep in mind there will be a right and a left. Apply edge banding, if desired. Position the pieces so they are located ½” in from the side edges, and the back edge is flush with the back edge of the top. Attach to the top of the dresser using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back of the hutch. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the hutch top. Apply edge banding to all four edges, if desired. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the hutch sides and back.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Clara Buffet with a Drop-Down TV Option! This is a Custom Plan for a reader with a TV containment and dropdown option! How cool is that biz... yahoo Xx...Rayan
Cut the pieces for the side frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown.
Cut the plywood piece for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble with glue and 1” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the two shorter ends. Attach the sides with the bottom of the frames flush with the bottom face using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the large divider. Drill pocket holes as shown, and secure to the bottom and sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the base. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the three shorter pieces and assemble as shown. Attach the feet to the frame with countersunk 2” screws through the base frame into the feet.
Attach the base to the cabinet with countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the frame into the bottom.
Cut the piece for the narrower divider. Drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges, and secure to the large divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the shorter ends of each shelf and secure with the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The lower shelves are narrower and are located ¾” back from the front edge.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Cut the opening as shown. Secure to the cabinet with ½” overlap at the sides and front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, dividers, and stretchers.
Cut the piece for the door. Cut an optional finger hole at the front of the door to make it easier to open. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides. The hinge can be placed at the front or back of the opening.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Attach the bottom to the sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front and back, and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Cube. Perfect with the other pieces in the Modular Family collection!!!
If using edge banding, it will need to be applied before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edges of the sides, as well as the longer edges of the bottom. Position as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides and back into the underside of the top.
Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the door. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening. Install the hinges on the door, then attach to the cabinet. Install the cabinet pull or handle.
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Bridge. Yay, moving right along through this collection! We already covered the bench and lockers for this modular family, and today the bridge!
Of course the whole collection can be configured any way you like...
Cut the pieces for the box. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges of the sides. Assemble as shown and attach the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure to the sides, top, and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the divider box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter dividers. Position as shown and secure to the top and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Insert the divider box into the bridge box and secure using 1-1/4” brad nails.
