Circular Saw

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Cabinet with Two Glass Doors! This would be fabulous on it's own or as a base to a desk or shelves!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Router with 3/8” rabbeting bit
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One piece of trim at 3-1/2” wide by 16”
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 2 - sets of hinges
  • 2 door pulls
  • Glass or Plexiglas for doors
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 29-1/4” x 29-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 28-1/2” – Kick Plate
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 18-3/4” x 29-1/2” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” x 31” – Top
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 25-1/8” – Door Frame
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 10-7/16” – Door Frame
  • 1 – 3-1/2” trim at 31” – Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece.

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end then attach to the lower front edge using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge and secure to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the upper sides and back. The top will overlap by ¾”.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the door frames. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using the router and the rabbeting bit, rout the inside of the door frames (on the back) to allow for the glass.

Another option for attaching the glass would be to use glass clips to secure the glass to the back of the door frame (with no rabbet) but the shelves will need to be shortened to allow for the thickness of the glass and the clips.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the piece for the trim then attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Printer’s Media Suite Cabinet with Drawers

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • One piece of trim at 3-1/2” wide by 16”
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Six drawer pulls
  • 3 – sets of 16” drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 29-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 14-1/2” – Kick Plate
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 18-3/4” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 20-1/4” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 15-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 15-1/4” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 13-1/2” – Drawer Box Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 14-1/4” – Drawer Box Fronts
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/8” x 15-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – 3-1/2” trim at 16” – Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece. Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end then attach to the lower front edge using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge and secure to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the upper sides and back. The top will overlap by ¾”.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Attach the sides to the bottoms using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer box front and back. Attach the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

The drawer box assembly is narrower than the drawer box front. The drawer box will be positioned ¼” from the bottom of the front as well as 3/8” in from each side. This will allow the drawer box front to have a 1/8” gap around all sides in the opening.

 

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions and make any necessary adjustments.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Position them so that the first one starts 1/8” below the top, and there is 1/8” spacing between each piece. The pieces will overlap the sides by 3/8”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 7

 Cut the piece for the trim then attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

I'm pretty sure LOVE doesn't adequately describe my feelings about this Free DIY Furniture Plan to Build a RH Baby & Child Inspired Rowley Desk! Adore is perhaps a better description...

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 4’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x3 at 4’
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1” screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 2” screws
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • 2 – 24” Continuous hinges
  • 2 –Lid stops
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 2x2 at 22” – Feet
  • 4 – 2x2 at ½” – Feet
  • 2 – 2x3 at 29-5/8” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x3 at 30-5/8” – Legs
  • 1 – 1x4 at 40-1/2” – Back Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x4 at 3-1/2” (cut at 45 deg angle) – Back Stretcher Brackets
  • 2 – 2x2 at 11” – Side Supports
  • 1 – 2x3 at 40-1/2” – Front Support
  • 3 – 1x6 at 25” – Compartment Sides & Divider
  • 1 – 1x4 (ripped to 3” wide) at 45” – Compartment Front
  • 1 – 1x6 at 45” – Compartment Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 21-3/8” x 24-3/4” – Compartment Bottoms
  • 1 – 1x8 (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) at 47-1/2” – Back Trim
  • 1 – 1x8 at 44-1/2” – Lower Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 47-1/2” – Top Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 23-11/16” x 23-11/16” – Doors
  • 2 – 1x2 at 23-11/16” – Door Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the feet. Attach the ½” pieces as shown using glue and 1” countersunk screws.

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle in the top of each piece. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom of each leg. Keep in mind that there will be two right legs and two left legs. The shorter legs will be located 5” from the front edge of the foot and the longer legs will be located 1” from the back of the feet. Attach to the feet as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back stretcher and the back brackets. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher. The dimension shown on the drawing is from the center of the back legs to the center of the stretcher. Attach to the back legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the brackets with glue and 1” screws toenailed through the corners into the legs and stretcher.

 

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front and side supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the compartment sides and divider. Cut the angles as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. In one of the three pieces, the pocket holes will be drilled in the opposite side.

Cut the pieces for the compartment front and back. The back piece will have a 4 degree bevel cut in one long edge (for the slope of the doors). The front piece will be located ½” below the top of the sides and divider.

Attach the sides and divider to the front and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the compartment bottoms. Cut the notches as shown. Drill pocket holes in the bottom of each piece – there will be a left and a right.

Attach to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the entire compartment to the legs using glue and countersunk 2” screws  through the sides into the legs. The top of the legs will be flush with the top of the sides.

 

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the back trim. Attach using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Cut the piece for the lower trim. Cut the notches as shown. Attach to the feet using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

 

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the top back. Cut a 4 degree bevel in one long edge (to fit flush against the back trim). Attach to the compartment using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

 

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the doors and the door trim. Attach the trim to the bottom of the door using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Cut the continuous hinges to length. Install according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Bouclier Coffee Table

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8’
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 19” – Legs
  • 5 – 1x2 at 29” – Frames & Support
  • 4 – 1x2 at 40-3/4” – Frames
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 29” x 40-3/4” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 33-1/2” x 45-1/4” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, apply to the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle as shown in each leg. The angles will face to the inside of the table.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the frames and support. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of each piece. Attach the frame pieces to the legs as shown with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the support as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes as indicated. Attach inside the lower frame with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. It will overlap the legs by ¾” on all sides. Attach using glue and countersunk   1-1/4” screws through the bottom of the upper frame into the top.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Roy Telling / The Design Confidential
Project Image
Project Details

Sari my better half saw one like this in a shop but it was not for sale. So I said I will try and make one, but it ended up bigger because she wanted to put more and more dishes in it... It is a wall mounted cupboard for your best plates or whatever you want to put in it. The plate rack I bought from my local DIY shop. The one in the shop had one made from bamboo (it looked much better)

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
880mm wide 300mm deep 646mm high
Tools
  • Hammer
  • Router
  • Circular Saw (if you are cutting all the wood yourself)
  • Keyhole saw
  • 16mm wood drill or hole saw
Lumber
  • 1.5 pieaces of 18mm thick wood
  • 2.4meters X 1.2meters (wood yard cut them for me)
  • 6mm ply wood for back and draw sides
Materials
  • only used small tacks to hold the back on and the rest is dovetal joints and glue.
Cut List

18mm thick:

  • Top (1) @ 907mm x 314mm
  • Sides (2) @ 652mm (Dt,T) x 300mm
  • Bottom (1) @ 855mm (Dt, T/B) x 290mm
  • Draw Tops (1) @ 855mm (Dt, T/B) x 290mm
  • Centre Shelf (1) @ 477mm (Dt, B/S) x 290mm
  • Shelf Suports (2) @ 477mm (Dt, T/B) x 290mm
  • Side Shelfs (2) @ 183mm (Dt, B/S) x 290mm
  • Drawers
  • Dividers (4) @ 127mm (Dt, T/B) x 290mm
  • Drawers Front/back ( 8) @ 133mm x 133mm

6mm thick ply

  • drawer sides 8 @ 266mm x 133mm
  • drawer base 4 @ 262mm x 107mm

(Dt,T)            Dovetail TOP + 6mm
(Dt, T/B)        Dovetail TOP AND BOTTOM +12mm
(Dt, B/S)        Dovetail Both Sides +12mm

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut all the pieces of wood to the right side and mark them for size and make sure they are square. Sand them so they are ready for staining.

Step 2

This is where you make up your mind whether you want to do dovetail joints or a simple slot joint.
if you doing a dovetail. Set up your router for doing a 6mm deep dovetail joint.
if you are doing a slotted joint. Set up your router for doing a 6mm deep slotted joint.
Check your setting on a scrap piece of wood.

Step 3

Mark out one piece at the time so you dont get lost.
I started with the all the dovetails in the centre first, (I found it easier this way).

Starting with the bottom and work your way up

  1. Mark a centre line
  2. Mark two lines 164.5mm either side of centre line for shelf supports
  3. Mark two lines 297.5mm either side of centre line for the other shelf supports
  4. Mark a line 10mm from the front edge this is you stop point for your dovetail or slot.
  5. Put 4 slot (Dovetail or plane)

Step 3
Step 4

mark the draw top the same as the bottom so

  1. Mark a centre line
  2. Mark two lines 164.5mm either side of centre line for shelf supports
  3. Mark two lines 297.5mm either side of centre line for the other shelf supports
  4. Mark a line 10mm from the front edge this is you stop point for your dovetail or slot.
  5. Put 4 slot (Dovetail or plane)

now turn draw top over

  1. Mark a centre line
  2. Mark two lines 232.5mm either side or centre for shelf supports

Step 5

mark the top the same as the draw top as so

  1. Mark a centre line
  2. Mark two lines 232.5mm either side or centre for shelf supports

Step 6

Now for the sides, as I hope you can see there is a radius on the top front edge. This is there just for cosmetics. but if you want it?

  1. mark a line 26mm from the top
  2. mark another line 117mm from first line
  3. draw a 95mm radius joining the two lines and cut the curve
  4. mark another line 39mm from the bottom this is the centre line of the the bottom piece.
  5. mark a line 172mm from the bottom this is centre of the draw top.
  6. mark a line 346mm from the bottom this is for the side shelf
  7. mark line 10mm from the front edge this is the stop point for the router
  8. now mark the other side on opposite side (left and right)

 

Step 7

now for the shelf supports . One is opposite from the other (one left hand one right)
RIGHT HAND.

  1. mark the curve in the shelf support, if you are putting them in your cupboard
  2. then on one side mark a line 171mm from the bottom this is for the side shelf
  3. on the other side mark a line 315mm from the bottom this is for the centre shelf
  4. mark  line 10mm from the front edge this is the stop point for the router
  5. mark the other support remember that it is opposite.

Step 8

IF YOU ARE USING DOVETAIL JOINTS?

  1. set the router to do the edges so they slide smoothly into the slots you have made
  2. do a test piece to make sure you have it right then
  3. then do the dovetail on both ends of the bottom, draw top, centre shelf and the side shelfs. cut the front 10mm off so it fits flush with you cpboard
  4. now do the top off the sides and cut the front 10mm off so it fits flush with the front of your cupboard
  5. then the top and bottom of the shelf supports and the draw deviders

Step 9

Now for the 4 draws the front and the back are all the same

  1. using the router on both sides cut the corner 6mm in from the side and 6mm deep.
  2. mark a line 7mm from the bottom on the same side
  3. now put a 6mm wide slot 4mm deep down the centre of this line
  4. now you just glue the one side on the slide the draw bottom in place then glue the other side on and clamp the side in place till dry
  5. repeat for the other 3 draws

Finishing Instructions

 

now carefully make sure all the pieces fit together then carefully take it apart again and sand it smooth, then apply the finish you want.
now put it all together with pva glue.
last of all slide the back in and pin it in place with some small tacks.

I hope you have managed to follow this and if you have any question I will do my best to answer them. I am sorry for the lake of picture but I made it just before I joined this site.
I have full plans that I made on google SketchUp but don't know how to get them on here.
 

God bless Roy

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

A fabulous project from our request list and one that might very well serve a number of purposes, whether you build it for storage or display, this guy will do it all!

 

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – Sheets of ¾” plywood (If you aren't comfortable cutting plywood you can easily substitute for 1x12 boards and keep the height of each vertical piece as is)
  • 1 – 2x10 at 3’ (if you sub for 1x12 boards, this should be changed to a 2x12)
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 5 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 64” – Shelves
  • 14 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 14” – Dividers
  • 2 – 2x10 scraps at 14” long (ripped to 8-1/4” wide) - Legs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at one long edge on each board.

Cut the piece for the bottom shelf. Attach the legs to the shelf at the spacing indicated using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end to attach to the shelves. Attach the first four dividers at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the first shelf and attach to the dividers as indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the next three dividers and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the first divider at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the second shelf and attach as shown, using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the next four dividers and third shelf. Repeat the process as for the first shelf in Step 2.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the remaining three dividers and the top, and attach as in Step 3.

Step 5
Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

We are back with part 2 of this project for the drawers and corkboard bin, after we covered part 1 yesterday (found here). This DIY Furniture plan is sure to solve quite a bit of your storage issues, so get building!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • Scraps of ¾” plywood from the Hampton Tower
  • Scraps of ¼” plywood from the Hampton Tower
  • Or…
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 3 – ¾ sq. x 3’ dowels
  • 12” sq. cork tile, ¼” thick
  • Half sheet of ¼” plywood 
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 6 – Drawer Handles or knobs
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • Router with Rabbeting Bit
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

(Dimensions for cutting plywood scraps are in parentheses)

  • 1 – 1x2 at 9-5/8” – Corkboard Frame (1-1/2” x 9-5/8”)
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16” – Corkboard Frame (1-1/2” x 16”)
  • 1 – 1x6 at 9-5/8” – Corkboard Frame (1-1/2” x 9-5/8”)
  • 1 – Cork tile at 9” x 9-5/8” - Corkboard
  • 2 – 1x2 at 2-1/2” – Corkboard Bin Sides (1-1/2” x 2-1/2”)
  • 1 – 1x2 at 9-5/8” – Corkboard Bin Bottom (1-1/2” x 9-5/8”)
  • 1 – 1x3 at 11-1/8” – Corkboard Bin Front (2-1/2” x 11-1/8”)
  • 6 – 1x3 at 12-1/2” – Small Drawer Sides (2-1/2” x 12-1/2”)
  • 3 – 1x3 at 16-1/4” – Small Drawer Back (2-1/2” x 16-1/4”)
  • 3 – 1x4 at 16-1/4” ripped to 2-3/4” wide – Small Drawer Front (2-3/4” x 16-1/4”)
  • 6 – 1x6 at 12-1/2” ripped to 5” wide – Large Drawer Sides (5” x 12-1/2”)
  • 3 – 1x6 at 16-1/4” ripped to 5” wide – Large Drawer Back (5” x 16-1/4”)
  • 3 – 1x6 at 16-1/4” ripped to 5-1/4” wide – Large Drawer Front (5-1/4” x 16-1/4”)
  • 6 – ¾ square dowels at 14-3/4” – Drawer Bottom Support
  • 6 – ¼” plywood at 13-1/4” x 16-1/4 – Drawer Bottom
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Corkboard Frame:

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1x2 and the 1x6 pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Using the router and the rabbeting bit, cut a ¼” deep rabbet on the back side of the frame at the opening for the cork. Cut the cork to fit and glue in the opening.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the bin sides and bottom. Attach the sides to the sides of the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach to the frame from the back side with 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the bin sides and bottom.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the front of the bin. Attach to the sides and front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the corkboard to the door with countersunk 1-1/4” screws making sure to avoid the mirror.

Step 3
Step 4

For the Drawers:

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Assemble as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The drawer fronts will be ¼” longer than the sides and back to accommodate the bottom.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the dowel pieces for the bottom support. Attach to the inside of the drawer front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The bottom of the dowel will be flush with the bottom of the sides.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach to the sides and bottom support using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill holes in the front for the knob or handle.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

An amazing storage piece with a fold down top that allows for the perfect hide away work surface!

Estimated Cost

$150-$200

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 4’
  • 3 full sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 3 sets of 15” drawer slides
  • 8 – Drawer Handles or knobs
  • 2 – Drop Front Supports (go here )
  • 1 Continuous Hinge for Work Surface
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 51-3/4” – Sides
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 30-1/2” – Shelves
  • 2 – 1x2 at 30-1/2” – Back Support & Lower Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 30-1/2” – Front Support
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 32” x 51-3/4” – Back
  • 3 – 1x4 at 7-1/2” – Inner Drawer Cubby Sides & Center
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2 x 30-1/2” – Inner Drawer Cubby Top & Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 33-1/2” – Top
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 6” – Cubby Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 11” – Cubby Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 13-3/4” – Cubby Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 12-1/2” – Cubby Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 15-1/4” – Cubby Drawer Front & Back
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 13-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 13-1/2” – Larger Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 29-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 29-1/2” – Larger Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – ¼” plywood at 15” x 29-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 1 – 1x3 at 33-1/2” – Lower Trim Front
  • 2 – 1x3 at 16-1/2” – Lower Trim Sides
  • 1 – Casing at 32-3/4” – Upper Front Trim
  • 2 – Casing at 16-1/2” – Upper Side Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/2” x 30-1/4” – Work Surface Front
  • 2 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Work Surface Trim Stiles
  • 2 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 30-1/4” – Work Surface Trim Rails
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/4” x 30-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Fronts
  • 4 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 4-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Trim Stiles
  • 4 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 30-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Trim Rails
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 30-1/4” – Larger Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 8-1/2” – Larger Drawer Front Trim Stiles
  • 2 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 30-1/4” – Larger Drawer Front Trim 
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides and shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter ends of the shelves. Secure to sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the spacing indicated.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces and attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The 1x4 piece will go in the front while the 1x2 piece will be in the back.

Cut the piece for the lower trim support and attach to the cabinet under the lowest shelf in the same manner as the other supports.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the inner cubby. Attach the sides to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws flush with the back at the spacing indicated.

Attach the bottom cubby piece first using glue and brad nails through the bottom into the side pieces. Attach the center support at the spacing indicated with brad nails through the bottom into the support. Fasten the top piece in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and center support.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the cubby drawers. Attach the sides to the bottom as shown in the drawing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the bottom. Attach the front and back pieces in the same manner with brad nails through the pieces into the sides and bottom.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the work surface and the trim. Fasten the trim to the work surface front with glue and clamp until dry. Attach the continuous hinge to the work surface, then to the shelf. There will be an approximate 1/8” gap around all sides of the work surface in the opening. Attach the drop front supports according to the manufacturer’s instructions. 

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Fasten to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, front support, and back support. The top will hang over the sides and front by ¾”.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the lower trim. Cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. Attach the side trim first using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.  Attach the front piece with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the front into the lower support.

Cut the casing pieces for the top side trim with a 45 deg. miter on the front edge. Attach to the sides of the cabinet under the top with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Measure for the front trim and cut this piece with a 45 deg. miter on each end. Fasten to the cabinet in the same manner.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the other drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the side pieces and assemble as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the bottoms and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Attach the drawer slides to the drawers and cabinet following the manufacturer’s instructions. The slides will need to be positioned 1” from the front edge of the cabinet. Do not attach the drawer fronts!

Step 9
Step 10
Cut the pieces and trim for the drawer fronts. These will be assembled in the same manner as the work surface. After assembly, drill holes for the knobs or handles. Shim the drawer fronts in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and drill screws through the holes for the knobs into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers, and secure the fronts to the boxes using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the knob holes and finish drilling out the holes.
Step 10
Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

A custom build designed by Matt himself! This cabinet is totally customizable – Matt used the actual measurements of his media components to determine the size of his cabinet. 

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Matt’s Media Cabinet
Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
Materials
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 4 – Drawer Handles or knobs
  • Edge banding for the plywood edges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 1 – 18” x 93-1/2” – Top
  • 1 – 18” x 91-1/2” – Bottom
  • 6 – 18” x 22-3/4” – Dividers
  • 4 – 17” x 18” – Shelves
  • 2 – 18” x 18” – Shelves
  • 4 – 10” x 37-1/4” – Hutch Sides
  • 8 – 9” x 10” – Hutch Shelves
  • 1 – 10” x 80” – Hutch Top
  • 1 – 24-1/4” x 91-1/2” (1/4” plywood) - Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Apply edge banding, if desired, after each piece has been cut.

Cut the pieces for the top, bottom, and dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the 18” ends of the dividers. Attach one divider to each side of the bottom with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach top in the same manner keeping in mind that each end of the top will overlap the sides by 1”. Check for square, then insert the remaining dividers at the spacing indicated in the drawing

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the shelves and attach to the dividers with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the hutches. Attach the shelves to the sides with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Set the hutch assemblies on the top spaced 59” apart. Attach the hutch top with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then secure the hutch assemblies to the cabinet with countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! 

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Lady Goats / Lady Goats
Project Image
Project Details

These are a beautiful way to store your recycling until recycle day! They can also be used to store craft papers, toys and fabrics! Think of your own clever use!

 

You can get two bins out of a full sheet of ply.

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Circular saw or Table saw
  • Jig Saw
  • Nail gun
Lumber
  • Half of a 4x8 sheet of 1/2" ply for 1,
  • OR 1 and a half sheets of 1/2" ply for 3
Materials
  • Chalkboard tags or paint
  • 1" finish nails 
  • finishing supplies
Cut List

All cuts are made from 1/2" ply

 

  • 2 - 18 1/2" x 11 1/2" (sides)
  • 1 - 9" x 23" (front)
  • 1 - 23" x 15 1/4" (top)
  • 1 - 23" x 12 (back)
  • 1 - 23" x 15" (bottom)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Mark your side boards as pictured above and cut along the lines. You can either use your jig saw to cut out the hole thing (just drill a hole inside where the handle will be so that you can get your blade in it) or use a 3/4" paddle bit to drill two circles, and then use your jig saw to cut a line between them to create the handle). You'll be making two of these.

Step 1
Step 2

Attach the front to the sides with glue and 1/2" finish nails. 

Step 2
Step 3

Attach the back, with glue and 1/2" finish nails.

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the top, using glue and 1/2" finish nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Turn the bin over, and attach the bottom, gluing and nailing.

Step 5
Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Syndicate content