Circular Saw

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

This gorgeous piece is one we have already covered plans for, but this is an updated version of those plans using the latest greatest tools and techniques. Hopefully this makes it easier to build, more cost effective and a major enticement to all of you builders out there. I hope one of you tackles this piece quickly... I for one, just can't wait to see it!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Safety Gear
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Table Saw
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
  • 9 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3- 1x3 at 8’
  • 5 – 2x2 at 8’

 

Materials
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/2” brad nails
  • 9 – sets of 24” drawer slides
  • 15 – drawer pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 28 – 1x2 at 25” – Side Frames , Side Supports, Top Supports, and Top Frame Assemblies
  • 8 – 1x2 at 23-1/2” – Lower Frame Spacers
  • 10 – 1x3 at 22-1/2” – Upper  & Center Drawer Boxes
  • 2 – 1x3 at 26” – Center Drawer Box
  • 8 – 2x2 at 25-1/2” - Legs
  • 8 – 2x2 at 3-1/4” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 2x2 at 25” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 2x2 at 80” – Top Frame
  • 1 – 28” x 80” – ¾” plywood – Divider
  • 1 – 25” x 77” – ¾” plywood – Top
  • 24 – 6” x 22-1/2” – ¾” plywood – Lower Drawer Boxes
  • 2 – 3” x 23-1/4” – ¾” plywood – Upper Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – 3” x 26-3/4” – ¾” plywood – Center Upper Drawer Front
  • 12 – 3” x 23-1/4” – ¾” plywood – Lower Drawer Fronts
  • 6 – ¾” x 23-1/4” – ¾” plywood – Lower Drawer Spacers
  • 8 – 22-1/2” x 24” – ¼” lauan or hardboard – Drawer Bottoms
  • 1 – 24” x 26” – ¼” lauan or hardwood – Center Drawer Bottom
  • 4 – 21-3/4” x 25” – ¾” plywood –  Lower Sides
  • 2 – 3-1/4” x 25” – ¾” plywood – Upper Sides
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the 2x2 legs as indicated. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end of each these pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes at each end in the 1x2s. Construct the side frames as indicated. The pocket holes in the horizontal pieces will face down.

Step 1
Step 2

 Add the support pieces to the inside of the side frames. These pieces will be flush with the inside faces of the 2x2 legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the 1x2s for the lower frame spacers and drill pocket holes at each end. Once again, the pocket holes will face down. Attach the spacers to the sides as indicated with three in the front and one at the lower back.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the 2x2s as indicated for the top frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Assemble with the pocket holes facing to the inside.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the 1x2 supports for the top frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the top frame with the spacing as indicated. The bottom of the supports should be flush with the bottom of the frame to allow the top to sit flush.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the 1x2 and 2x2 pieces for the top frame assemblies. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the 1x2s. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill holes in one end of the 2x2 pieces. Assemble as shown in the drawing with the holes in the 2x2s facing down as if you will be drilling into something.

Step 6
Step 7

Attach the frame assemblies to the bottom of the top frame as indicated. See drawing…

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the divider and attach to the top frame as shown using glue and brad nails. Also cut the upper side pieces. Attach with glue and brad nails from the outside of the frame.

Step 8
Step 9

Flip the top frame over and attach to the lower frames as indicated, lining up the legs with the 2x2 supports.

Step 9
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the lower sides and attach them to the outside and inside of the side frames with glue and brad nails.
Step 10
Step 11

Cut the piece for the top and attach it to the top frame in the same manner as the sides.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an RH Inspired Printmaker’s Desk
Step 12

Construct the drawer boxes as indicated. There will be two side drawers, one center drawer, and six large drawers. Install the drawer slide hardware. The slides will be located 3/4" away from the front of the opening to accommodate the drawer front. Do not attach the faces until the drawers have been installed and any adjustments have been made.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an RH Inspired Printmaker’s Desk
Step 13

Construct the lower drawer fronts as shown. Because the center spacer is so narrow, the pocket holes will need to be staggered so the screws don’t hit each other. For all drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles. I did not include directions for a back panel. For a back panel, cut pieces of ¼” lauan or hardboard and secure to the back with brad nails.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an RH Inspired Printmaker’s Desk
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an RH Inspired Printmaker’s Desk
Finishing Instructions

 

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.

If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

With several options for the top how can you go wrong? Laminate is available in all sorts of colors and patterns, plus it’s a snap to cut and use! Aside from the beauty the bonus here is that there are drawers that open on both sides! Totally convenient... yahoo...

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 4x4 at 6’
  • 4 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 3 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 4’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1/4 sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 4 sets of 12” drawer slides
  • 4 – Locking Casters
  • 4 – Drawer Handles or knobs
  • Edge banding for the plywood or Laminate for top
  • Contact Cement (if using laminate)
  • Laminate Cutter
  • Router with flush Trim Bit
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 4x4 at 32” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x4 at 23” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 23” x 28-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Side Panels
  • 4 – 2x2 at 34” – X Braces
  • 6 – 2x4 at 45” – Lower Stretchers , Middle Aprons & Upper Aprons
  • 2 – 2x2 at 17” – Lower Divider Front
  • 2 – 17” x 27” of ¾” plywood – Lower Dividers
  • 14 – 1x3 at 30” – Slats
  • 4 – 1x2 at 28-1/2” – Shelf Supports
  • 2 – 21-3/4” x 28-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Shelves
  • 4 – 1x2 at 21-3/4” – Shelf Trim
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6-1/2” – Drawer Divider
  • 1 – 2x2 at 27” – Drawer Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 53-1/2” – Upper Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 30” – Upper Trim
  • 8 – 1x6 at 20-3/4” – Drawer Boxes
  • 8 – 1x6 at 10-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • 4 – 12” x 20-3/4” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – 6-1/4” x 21-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – 31-1/2” x 53-1/2” of ¾” plywood - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each of the 2x4 ends. Secure the 2x4 pieces to the legs with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the X-braces. An easy way to do this would be to cut the four 2x2 pieces at 34” long. Cut two of the pieces in half and drill pocket holes (for 1-1/2” material) in one end. Secure at the centers of the 34” pieces with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Clamp the pieces in place on the side frames and from the inside, draw lines to make the angled cuts at the corners of the braces. Drill pocket holes at the ends and secure to the side frame with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Make sure the fronts of the braces are flush with the faces of the side frames.

Cut the plywood pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes on three sides as indicated. Secure to the inside of the frame with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Make sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the side frames.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the side assemblies with glue and 2-1/2” screws locating them 2” up from the bottom of the legs. 

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the 2x2 pieces for the lower dividers. Drill pocket holes at one end and secure in the center of the lower stretchers with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the plywood pieces for the lower divider. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each of the 17” ends on one piece only. Secure to the 2x2 divider pieces with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The pocket holes should face to the inside and the face of the divider is flush with the side of the 2x2 divider.

Secure the second piece of plywood to the first piece, in between the 2x2s with glue and brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the 1x3 pieces for the slats. Secure to the lower stretchers, evenly spaced, with glue and  countersunk  1-1/4” screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the shelf supports. Secure to the sides and the divider at the spacing indicated with countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Each support should be located ¾” back from the face of each leg to allow for the shelf trim.

Cut the pieces for the shelves and attach to the supports with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the shelf trim and secure to the shelves with glue and brad nails.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

 Cut the 2x4 pieces for the middle aprons and the upper aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of each piece. Attach the middle apron to the sides as indicated in the drawings with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws, and also use a couple of countersunk 2-1/2” screws in the center. Attach the upper apron pieces as indicated in the drawings with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer divider. Drill pocket holes in each end of the three pieces. In the shorter pieces, the top of the pocket holes themselves may overlap each other but it will not affect the screws and they will be completely hidden. Secure as indicated in the drawings with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the upper trim. Attach the sides first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front and back pieces.

Step 9
Step 10
Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, apply to the edges and secure to the cabinet with glue and brad nails through the top into the aprons. If using laminate, use a laminate cutter and cut strips for the edges of the top. The strips can be a little wider than the edges because the excess will be trimmed away with the router. Apply contact cement to the edges following the manufacturer’s instructions and apply the laminate. Use care because once it makes contact, it is stuck forever!! Using a router with a flush trim bit trim away the excess laminate. Secure the top to the cabinet with glue and brad nails through the top into the aprons. Cut the piece of laminate for the top. Use masking tape on the edges where the strips were applied (to keep the contact cement off and to keep it from chipping when using the router) and adhere the laminate to the top. Use the router again to cut away the excess laminate. Attach the casters according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Do not attach the drawer faces until the drawer  boxes have been installed and adjusted! Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions placing them ¾” back from the opening face to allow for the fronts. Make any adjustments necessary.

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Drill the holes for the handle or knob placement. Shim in place in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and drill a temporary screw through the holes into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers and secure the fronts to the boxes from the insides with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handle or knob

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Hamilton Kitchen Table Large
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Hamilton Kitchen Table Large
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! 

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

I am constantly on my laptop – for work purposes, of course!! My most favorite place to work with it is by the fireplace. A table like this makes work so much easier, plus I could use it while lying on the couch under a cozy blanket!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Kreg Jig
  • Square
  • Sander
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 1 –piece of ¾” plywood 12-1/2” x 23-1/2”
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 4 – Hinges
  • USB hub, if desired
  • 3M Command Strips to attach USB hub
  • Mouse Pad
  • Carpet Tape to attach mouse pad
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies

 

Cut List
  • 2 – 1x2 at 25”– Frame Front & Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12-1/2” – Frame Sides
  • 1 – 12-1/2” x 23-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Back
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8” - Legs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the frame sides, front & back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end of the sides. Assemble the frame as shown with 1-1/4” pocket screws and glue. Check for square.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the top and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure the top flush with the frame edge using 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the legs. Attach the a hinge to one end of each leg. Lay a leg at each corner with the wider face facing to the outside. Attach the hinge to the table top so that when the leg folds up, the hinge is sandwiched between the leg and the top, and the leg is flush with the side.

Step 3
Step 4

Use carpet tape and adhere the mouse pad in the position desired. Use the Command strips to attach the USB hub in a position that works best for your laptop. If desired, use a hole saw to cut a hole to insert a car cup holder (with the hook removed) and secure the cup holder with silicone

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

This is a such a fabulous new collection we’ve added here at TDC. The clean lines and simplicity make these pieces easy and quick to build! To see the other pieces that match, head to the Plan Index and use the menu sorting box to choose Oak Park Collection!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Safety Gear
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Table Saw
  • Drill 
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
Lumber
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 4x4 posts at 6’ (if your store doesn't sell these in 4' sizes, you will need 3 of these)
  • 1 – 4x4 post at 4’ (if your store sells in this size)
  • 2- 1x2 at 6’
  • 5 – 1x3 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Iron On Edge Banding, if desired
  • 2 – 2” or 3” angle backets
  • Spray paint to match stain or paint
  • 1 set of bed hardware – I recommend Rockler Surface Mounted Keyhole Brackets, part no. 32077
  • Wood filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 4x4 at 37” – Headboard Sides
  • 1 – 4x4 at 45-3/4” – Headboard Top
  • 2 – 4x4 at 16” – Footboard Sides
  • 1 – 23-1/4” x 37-3/4” of ¾” plywood for Headboard Panel
  • 1 – 7-1/2” x 37-3/4” of plywood for Footboard Panel
  • 2 – 1x2 at 69-1/4” – Slat Support
  • 2 – 7-1/2” x 72-1/4” of ¾” plywood for Side Rails
  • 10 – 1x3 at 39-3/4” ** – Slats **Measure spacing between rails before cutting!
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

**You will want to apply the edge banding to any exposed ply wood edges before assembly

** Cut the pieces as listed for the headboard and footboard.

The headboard top will be fastened to the sides with angle brackets. It is a good idea to spray paint the angles to match your finish prior to assembly. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter edges of the plywood panel for the headboard. Also drill pocket holes in the shorter edges of the plywood panel for the footboard. The panels will be attached at the center of each post.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side rails and attach the 1x2 slat support as indicated with the bottoms being flush. The ends of the slat support should be located 1-1/2” away from the ends of the side rail.

Step 2
Step 3

Attach the bed hardware per the package instructions. If there are no instructions, go here: and click the More Info tab for a diagram.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut ten 1x3 pieces for the slats. Measure the spacing between the rails first before cutting. Attach the slats, evenly spaced, with 1-1/4” screws through the slat into the support.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability. If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

We covered the tower here and the one drawer pocket desk here, and now.... the two drawer desk! This would be a fabulous entryway console table as well, with storage for keys and wallets! 

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 –1x2 at 6’
  • ½ sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 - Scraps of ¼” plywood measuring 17-1/8” x 17-1/2”
Materials
  • 1 ½” pocket hole screws
  • 1¼” pocket hole screws
  • 1 ¼” screws
  • Small nails or 1¼” brads
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 2 sets drawer slides - 16"
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 29-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x6 at 17” – Sides
  • 1 – 1x6 at 37” – Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 37” – Front Supports
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Supports
  • 1 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Supports
  • 4 – 1x3 at 17-1/8” – Drawer Boxes
  • 4 – 1x3 at 16” – Drawer Boxes
  • 2 – 17-1/8” x 17-1/2” of ¼” plywood – Drawer Bottoms
  • 1 – 3-3/4” x 18-3/8” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Front
  • 1 – 3-3/4” x 18-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Front
  • 1 – 20” x 40” of ¾” plywood - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws, making sure the face of the sides is flush with the face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws making sure the face of the back is flush with the back of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front supports. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The top support will need to be positioned so it is flush with the top of the legs. The lower support will be located 4” below the top support. See drawing.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. The longer support will be in the middle. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side supports and in one end of the middle support. The front of the middle support will be located ¾” back from the face of the lower front support. Secure with a countersunk 1-1/4” screw from the bottom of the front support. See Drawing.

Step 4
Step 5

** If using edge banding, apply it to the exposed edges of the drawer fronts and top before assembly**

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces and construct the drawers as shown. The bottoms will be attached with glue and brad nails. Install the drawer slides 3/4" back from the front edge of the lower support to allow for the drawer front. Make any adjustments necessary.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. One of the fronts is 1/8” shorter than the other to allow for a 1/8” gap. Cut the notch in the center of each drawer front with a jigsaw. Shim the drawer fronts in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and fasten to the drawer boxes with 1-1/4” screws from the inside.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Fasten to the desk with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

The perfect solution for your entryway with ample storage space and that rustic traditional styling, it's so completely perfect!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Table Saw
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
  • 1 – sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1/4 – sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1/4 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 14 -1x2 at 8’
  • 5 - 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 - 2x2 at 4’
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/2” screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • 4 pair of hinges
  • 4 Door Pulls
  • Edge banding for exposed edges of plywood, if desired
  • 2 – 1” angle brackets
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 16” x 27-1/2” of ½” plywood – Lower Sides
  • 2 – 16” x 40” of ½” plywood – Upper Sides
  • 4 – 1x2 at 16” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 1x3 at 19” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1x2 at 70-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 15 – 1x2 at 18” – Solid Shelf Supports
  • 6 – 1x2 at 18-3/4” – Slatted Shelf Supports
  • 3 – 1x2 at 17-1/4” – Bottom Support
  • 6 – 18” x 46-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Shelves, Top & Bottom
  • 10 – 1x3 at 46-1/2” – Slats
  • 1 – 46-1/2” x 73-1/4” of ¼” lauan or hardboard - Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 46-1/2” – Lower Trim Filler
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19” – Lower Trim Sides
  • 1 – 1x2 at 49-1/2” – Lower Trim Front
  • 2 – 2x2 at 19” (mitered on table saw) – Upper Trim
  • 1 – 1x2 at 51” – Upper Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 11-3/4” – Upper Door Frame
  • 4 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Upper Door Frame
  • 2 – 8-3/4” x 18-1/2” of ½” plywood – Upper Door Panels
  • 4 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Lower Door Frame
  • 4 – 1x2 at 27-3/4” – Lower Door Frame
  • 2 – 18-1/2” x 24-3/4” of ½” plywood – Lower Door Panels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the 1x2 and 1x3 pieces for the side frames and the pieces for the panels from ½” plywood. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces as indicated for the frames. Assemble the frames with spacing as indicated using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.  

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the panels. Attach the panels to the frames with 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the shelf supports. For the side supports there will be twelve 1x2x18” and four 1x2x18-3/4”. Attach to side panels with spacing as indicated using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Note that the supports for the top, upper three shelves, and the bottom will be located ¾” back from the front edge and ¼” back from the back edge.

Step 2
Step 3

 

If using edge banding on the exposed edges of the plywood shelves, it should be applied before assembly. 

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the center shelf supports, the 1x3 pieces for the slatted shelves, and the ¾” plywood pieces for the top, bottom, and shelves. Attach the center supports to the solid shelves with countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Assemble the slatted shelves as shown in the drawing.

Attach the shelves to the cabinet sides with countersunk 1-1/2” screws through the top of the shelf through the side supports. It may be easier to start with the bottom shelf, add the top, and then check for square. Add the remaining shelves starting with the lowest slat shelf first and work up. (This method will avoid tight spaces for the drill!)

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back from 1/4” lauan or hardboard. Attach to top, bottom, shelves, and supports with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the trim filler and lower trim pieces. Attach the trim filler first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through bottom shelf and sides. Make sure the face of the filler piece is flush with the edge of the bottom and sides. Next, attach the sides trim pieces, fastening them in the same manner and finally add the front trim piece.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the door frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble frame with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Next , attach frame to front of cabinet with the top of the frame flush with the top of the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the frame into the supports, including the center. A few brad nails can also be placed through the frame into the top and lower solid shelf. The sides of the frame should be flush with the cabinet sides and for extra security, afew brad nails can be placed through the sides into the frame. 

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the lower door frames and the ½” plywood pieces for the panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown in the frame pieces. Assemble the frames with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the plywood panels as shown. Attach to the frame with glue and 1” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame.

Attach the hinges to the doors. The doors will overlap the frame opening by ¼” on all sides. Secure the hinges to the cabinet when you are satisfied with the placement.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

The upper doors are constructed in exactly the same manner as the lower doors. Follow the lower door directions for assembly and placement.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces as indicated for the “crown” trim at the top. Using a table saw with the blade tilted at 45 degrees, cut the mitered angle along the length of the 2x2 pieces. Attach the angles 2x2 pieces to the mitered 1x2 piece with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the front. The assembly will them be attached to the cabinet 1/4"down from the top and secured with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 1” angle brackets will be used to attach the sides of the “crown” to the top of the cabinet. 

Step 9
Step 9
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post please PIN IT and STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

The perfect small-ish companion for the Tower we completed a couple of days ago, and equally as fabulous all by it's lonesome! 

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 –1x2 at 8’
  • ½ sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 - Scraps of ¼” plywood measuring 17-1/8” x 17-1/2”
Materials
  • 1 ½” pocket hole screws
  • 1¼” pocket hole screws
  • 1 ¼” screws
  • Small nails or 1¼” brads
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 1 set drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 30-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x6 at 17” – Sides
  • 1 – 1x6 at 27” – Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 27” – Front Supports
  • 1 – 1x2 at 17” – Supports
  • 2 – 1x3 at 20” – Drawer Box
  • 2 – 1x3 at 16” – Drawer Box
  • 1 – 17-1/2” x 20” of ¼” plywood – Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 3-3/4” x 26-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Front
  • 1 – 20” x 30” of ¾” plywood - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws, making sure the face of the sides is flush with the face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws making sure the face of the back is flush with the back of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front supports. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The top support will need to be positioned so it is flush with the top of the legs. The lower support will be located 4” below the top support. See drawing.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side supports. The bottom of the supports will be flush with the top of the lower front support and attached to the inside of the front legs . Secure with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. See Drawing.

Step 4
Step 5

** If using edge banding, apply it to the exposed edges of the drawer fronts and top before assembly**

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces and construct the drawer as shown. The bottom will be attached with glue and brad nails. Install the drawer slides and make any adjustments necessary.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Cut the notch in the center of each drawer front with a jigsaw. Shim the drawer front in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and fasten to the drawer box with 1-1/4” screws from the inside.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

 Cut the piece for the top. Fasten to the desk with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post please PIN IT and STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Another piece for the Oak Park Elementary Collection… This would be a great addition to a family room or craft room, also! The mod lines of this piece will blend perfectly with any modern decor or vintage decor!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 4 – 4x4 scraps at 4” long
Materials
  • 1¼” pocket hole screws
  • 1 ¼” screws
  • 2 ½” screws
  • Small nails or 1” brads
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • 4 – back to back wrap-around hinges  
  • 2 – handles
  • Edge banding, if desired
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 13-1/4” x 48” of ¾” plywood – Sides
  • 1 – 13” x 35-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Bottom
  • 1 – 13” x 34” of ¾” plywood – Lower Shelf
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12-1/4” – Lower Shelf Supports
  • 1 – 10-3/8” x 34” of ¾” plywood – Middle Shelf
  • 2 – 1x2 at 10-3/8” – Middle Shelf Supports
  • 1 – 7-3/4” x 34” of ¾” plywood – Top Shelf
  • 2 – 1x2 at 7-3/4” – Top Shelf Supports
  • 1 – 35-1/2” x 48-3/4” of ¼” plywood – Back
  • 2 – 16-1/4” x 16-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Doors
  • 2 – 2x4 at 29-1/2” – Base
  • 2 – 2x4 at 7” – Base
  • 4 – 4x4 at 4” - Legs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying.

If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages.

Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

** If using edge banding, it will need to be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly. **

Cut the pieces for the sides as indicated. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom of each side.

Cut the piece for the bottom and attach to the sides with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the lower shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing indicated in the drawing with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. They will need to be located ¾”

Cut the piece for the lower shelf. Attach to the shelf supports with glue and countersunk screws through the top of the shelf.

Step 2
Step 3

 

Cut the pieces for the middle shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing indicated in the drawing and in the same manner as the lower shelf supports.

Cut the piece for the middle shelf. Attach to the shelf supports in the same manner as the lower shelf.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the top shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing indicated in the drawing and in the same manner as the lower and middle shelf supports.

Cut the piece for the top shelf. Attach to the shelf supports in the same manner as the middle and lower shelves.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the back from the ¼” plywood. Check the cabinet for square and adjust as necessary. Attach to the back of the cabinet with glue and brad nails.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the 2x4 and 4x4 pieces for the base. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x4s. Attach the 2x4s to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2” screws.

Attach the base to the bottom of the bookcase by drilling countersunk screws through the bottom of the bookcase into the base frame.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors. It may be easier in this case to attach the hinges to the cabinet, then attach the doors to the hinges. Mark the placement for the handles and attach them to the doors.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Lady Goats / Lady Goats - Emmett Trunk
Project Image
Project Details

This trunk is a great piece to use as a coffee table or at the foot of your bed. It's a stylish storage option that packs a lot of punch. Based on the Pottery Barn trunk with the same name.

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Circular Saw
  • Miter Saw
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit
  • Kreg Jig
Lumber
  • 10 - 1 x 4 x 8
  • 2 - 1 x 3 x 8
  • 3 - 2 x 2 x 8
  • 2 - 1 x 2 x 8
  • 1/2 sheet of 3/4" ply 
Materials
  • 1 1/4" pocket hole screws
  • 2" screws
  • 1 1/4" finish nails
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Finishing Supplies
  • 1 set of decorative hinges
  • 1 hasp
  • 1 set of handles of your choice
  • about 24" of chain (optional)
Cut List
  • 12 - 1 x 4 @ 46 1/2" (front and back planks)
  • 12 - 1 x 4 @ 18" (side planks)
  • 3 - 1 x 4 @ 45" (top planks)
  • 3 - 1 x 3 @ 45" (top planks)
  • 4 - 2 x 2 @ 14 1/4" (interior supports)
  • 2 - 2 x 2 @ 45" (lengthwise supports)
  • 4 - 2 x 2 @ 18 (lid supports)
  • 2 - 1 x 2 @ 48" (front and back trim)
  • 2 - 1 x 2 @ 19 1/2" (side trim)
  • 3/4" ply @ 18" x 45"
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying.

If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages.

Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Using pocket holes set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws, create two planks using five of your long plank boards, each. 

Step 1
Step 2

Create the short sides of the trunk by screwing 5 of the side boards to two 2 x 2 interior supports. Measure 1 1/2" from the top of the top board, and use 2" screws, screwing in through the 2 x 2.

 

Do this twice.

Step 2
Step 3

Create the main box by screwing the long boards to the 2 x 2s from the inside with 2" screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Create the top of the lid by planking the 1 x 3s & 1 x 4s in your desired order, using pocket holes set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Make sure to predrill holes around the outsides of the plank so that you can attach the sides of the lid.

Step 4
Step 5

Attach the short sides of the lid first with the last two side planks using pocket holes set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Attach the front and back planks to the lid using pocket holes set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Turn the main box over and attach the bottom by screwing into the 2 x 2s in all four corners, and using pocket holes set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 8

Attach the lengthwise supports using 2" screws and screwing from the inside of the 2x2 to the outsides of the box and into the corner supports.

Step 8
Step 9

Attach the side trim first, using glue and 1 1/4" finish nails.

Step 9
Step 10
Attach the front and back trim using glue and 1 1/4" finish nails
Step 10
Step 11

Before attaching the lid to the box, screw in your lid supports by screwing through the 2 x 2s with 2" screws.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Emmett Trunk
Step 12

Attach your desired hardware. If your hinges don't support the lid, attach chain so the lid doesn't fly backwards.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

We covered the plans for the desk and this matching hutch is another exciting addition to the Oak Park Elementary Inspired Collection! A great way to add some extra storage without taking up extra square footage... just go vertical!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Safety Gear
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 sheet of plywood
Materials
  • 1- 1/4” pocket hole screws 
  • 1- 1/2” pocket hole scrws
  • 1- 1/2” brad nails
  • Iron On Edge Banding
  • Wood filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 13” x 30-1/2” - Sides
  • 1 – 28-1/2” x 45-3/4” – Back
  • 2 – 7-1/2” x 45-3/4” – Shelves
  • 2 – 6” x 7-1/2” – Dividers
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying.

If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages.

Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

**You will want to apply the edge banding to any exposed ply wood edges before assembly ** Cut the pieces for the sides as indicated in the drawing. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom edge of each side. Don’t forget there will be a left and a right! The pocket holes to connect the hutch to the desk may be drilled on the inside or outside and filled later if you desire.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and and drill pocket holes in the shorter edges. Attach to the straight edge of the sides with pocket screws and glue.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves and the dividers. Drill pocket holes at each end of the shelves. Attach the upper shelf to the sides as indicated with screws and glue.

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the dividers to the lower shelf using a brad nailer with the spacing indicated. Secure the assembly to the sides with pocket screws maintaining the 6” spacing from the upper shelf. Secure the dividers to the top shelf with a brad nailer.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Attach the hutch to the desk using 1-1/2” screws with the back edge flush, and ¼” spacing on the sides. Instead of drilling pocket holes, angle brackets can also be used to secure the hutch.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability. If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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