Browse all Free Woodworking Plans that Require a Circular Saw

Jan
08
2014
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build an Oslo 3 Drawer Dresser. I'm going through a phase in my current design sensibilities that longs for a simplified style of furniture and decor, with a bit of a nod to the past and our design roots as a global society. I am loving pieces like this dresser that aren't fussy and will still stand the test of time with clean lines and minimal detailing. It helps that this fabulous combo also packs a light punch to the old wallet and remains both relatively easy to build and low in cost. Are you craving a more streamlined lifestyle right now too?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 3 – 1x10 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x10 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 34-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Bottom Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 36” – Bottom Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 4-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 34-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 34-1/4” x 34-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 34-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 36” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 32” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x10 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x10 at 33-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 36” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the bottom panel and the bottom frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket hole in each end of the shorter 1x2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom panel. Assemble the panel as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Insert the panel then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the panel will be flush with the top edge of the frame.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Position them on the underside of the bottom snug against the frame in each corner. Secure using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the bottom into the legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges. Secure to the bottom frame locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the bottom frame.

Step 4

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

 Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overhang by ½”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides and back.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Starting with the bottom drawer front, position it with a 1/8” gap at the bottom then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Position the next drawer fronts in the same manner with a 1/8” gap between them and secure the same way. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
06
2014
Project Details

I'm excited to post our very first new plan on the new site! Squeal! I hope you have had a chance to visit the new digs and check things out. They are a bit different, but definitely better! While we enjoy our new surroundings, a fabulous chair might be a good addition to the pack and the perfect partner for some of our fabulous tables, like the Harcombe Table we posted a few days ago.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 2’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x4 at 34” – Back Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 17-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 15-1/2” – Front & Back Aprons
  • 1 – 1x6 at 15-1/2” – Upper Back
  • 2 – 1x3 at 18” - Sides
  • 1 – 1x3 at 19” – Seat Support
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 21” – Seat
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the 2x4 pieces for the back legs. Draw the legs on the board according to the dimensions shown. Cut the legs out using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the upper back and the back apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Position the pieces as shown (the upper back piece will follow the angle of the legs) and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the apron ¼” back from the outside face of the legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front legs and front apron. Cut the taper in the legs using a jigsaw, a bandsaw, or a tapering jig on the table saw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron piece, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the apron ¼” back from the outside face of the legs.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the pieces ¼” back from the outside face of the legs.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat support and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the front and back aprons as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw. Secure the seat to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
20
2013
Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Project Details

We have such a special treat today my lovely fellow builders! I've teamed up with one of my favorite sweet friends, Lindsay of Makely Home to bring you a gorgeous set of plans! She has worked so very hard on this beauty so I hope you will head over to visit her and gush over her build! She will be sharing more beautiful images and details there! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Tools
Lumber
  • 1 1/2 sheets of ¾” plywood (2nd sheet - only need 2'x2' area)
  • 1 sheet 1/2" plywood
  • 1 sheet 1/4" plywood (or if your store will sell you a 1/2 sheet at 2'x8' then awesome)
  • 1- 2x6 at 6'
  • 2- 2x3 at 8' (1 front/back + 2 side per board)
  • 4- 1x6 at 8' (3 at 26  1/2 + 1 at 16 1/4 per board for 2 boards, then 5 at 16 1/4 per board)
  • 2- 1x8 at 8' (3 per board)
Materials
Cut List
  • 4- 2x4 at 7 3/4" legs
  • 4- 2x3 at 15 3/4" frame rails
  • 2- 2x3 at 51 1/4" frame front/back
  • 6- 1x6 at 26 1/2" drawer backs
  • 12- 1x6 at 16 1/4" drawer sides
  • 6- 1x8 at 27 11/16" drawer front
  • 2- 3/4" ply at 20"x22 1/4" sides
  • 2- 3/4" ply at 20"x57 1/4" top/bottom
  • 1- 3/4" ply at 19 1/4" x 22 1/4" center
  • 6- 1/2" ply at 26 1/2" x 5 3/4" drawer faces
  • 6-1/2" ply at 26 1/2" x 17" drawer bottoms
  • 1- 1/4" ply at 57 1/4" x 22 1/4" back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for age

Step 1

Use a 2x6 to cut your leg pieces. Create your guidelines as seen in the second image below and cut as indicated. Use a circular saw if possible.

Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Leg Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 2

Build your frame. Use 2 ½” pocket hole screws and glue to connect. The outside rails will sit flush against the leg pieces. The inner rails should sit approximately 16 ½” apart, but this is not a crucial dimension, just space them as evenly as possible.

Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 3

Build your Box. The side panels will sit inside the top and bottom panels and they will sit flush on the front, yet set in ¼” on the back side. This will allow for the back panel later. The bottom of your box will overhang your base by ¾” all the way around. Use 1 ¼” pocket hole screws with your pocket hole jig set for ¾” material and your pocket holes along the top and bottom of the panel (on the inside), and glue to fasten.

Main Box for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 4

Fasten the Center Panel in Place. The center panel will sit back ¾” on the front side and ¼” on the back side and should be centered as precisely as possible between the side panels. Use 1 ¼” pocket hole screws with your pocket hole jig set for ¾” material and your pocket holes along the top and bottom of the panel, and glue to fasten. 

Center Panel for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 5

Build Your Drawer Boxes. You will make of these 6 exactly the same way. In step 9, your drawer fronts will differ in their placement for 3 of your 6 drawers, but in this step and the next they are identical. The bottom will sit flush with the outside perimeter of the sides and back and can be secured using your brad nails and glue or 1” wood screws with a countersink bit to predrill and glue.  

Drawer Box for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 6

Secure your Drawer Faces and Attach Drawer Glides. The faces will be cut to size from your ½” plywood, and will sit flush with the drawer box on the top, sides, and bottom. The drawer glide should sit 3” up from the bottom of the box and 1” back from the front edge once the face has been attached.

Drawer Face for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 7

Cut and Notch Your Drawer Fronts. Cut your fronts to size and then notch out the handle area using a jig saw. Do not attach Drawer Fronts to the drawers themselves yet.

Drawer Front Cutout for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 8

Attach Drawer Glides to Side and Center Panels. Attach Glides in locations indicated below.  Work from the back for your measurements so they all end up at the same location (the center panel is set back farther than the sides from the front edge, so the dimensions are different from that side).  There will be 1/8” spacing around all edges of each drawer front and the placement of the drawer glides takes this into consideration.  For the bottom and center pair of drawer glides, measurements are from the bottom and back edge of the side and center panels and line up with the bottom edge of the drawer glides. For the top pair 2 of drawer glides the measurements are either from the top and back edge of the side and center panels or the bottom and back edges if you prefer, BUT they should still align with the bottom edge of the drawer glide.  All glides should sit 2 ¼” in from the back edge.  

**Also noted on the diagram below is the relative space each drawer will occupy including the 1/8” spacing on the bottom for each drawer, except for the top drawers which will have an additional 1/8” spacing on the top as well.

Drawer Glides for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 9

Insert Drawers. Line up the drawer glides and insert drawers in their respective locations. In the diagram below, the drawer front is attached, however you will actually attach the drawer front once the drawers have been inserted into the unit so you can adjust for any amount you might be ‘off’.

Drawer Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 10

Attach Drawer Fronts. You can do this after you have your drawers installed so that you can adjust for any slight discrepancies, but the location of the drawer fronts should be approximately what you see shown below in the diagram. There will be 1/8” spacing between the outside edge of the drawer front and the inside edge of the side panels on your box. There will also be 1/8” spacing above and below each drawer. There will be 1/8” spacing between the left and right drawers as well, but since they divide the space remaining, the overhang on the inside edges of your drawer fronts will be different than on the outside edges so I recommend using the outside edges as your guide. The Fronts will sit flush with the drawer on the bottom edge, will overhang 1 ½” on the top and 3/8” on the outside edge. The drawer shown below in the diagram would be a drawer for left hand side of your unit if you are facing your unit. These measurements for the overhang will be on the other side for the right hand side drawers. Attach drawer fronts with 1 1/4” brad nails and glue, where the front meets the sides of your drawer box (otherwise the nails will stick out the back of the drawer face).

Drawer Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 11

Attach the Back Panel. Use 1 ¼” brad nails and glue to attach your back to the side and center panels. 

Back Panel for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
09
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Large Hutch. There are only a few pieces left before we finish out the Original Office Collection, and you guys will be able to customize till you drop! I can't wait to see how you mix and match to arrange your own pieces! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 full sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood edges, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Feet
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 43-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 73-1/2” - Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 40-3/4” x 73-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 73-1/2” – Long Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 28-3/4” - Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 36-3/8” – Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 36-3/8” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 77” – Top
  • 2 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Side Trim
  • 1 – 1x2 at 76-1/2” – Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

 Cut the pieces for the sides and feet. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each side. Attach the feet to the bottom using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The side pieces will be positioned at the center of each foot.

Step 1
Step 2

 

 Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the piece for the long shelf and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 4
Step 5

 

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

 Cut the piece for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretcher will be flush with the outside edge of the sides.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

 

 Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overlap by 1”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the sides and back.

Step 7
Step 8

 

Cut the pieces for the trim. Rout a decorative edge along one long edge of each piece if desired. Position the sides first and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front in the same manner. A mitered corner will be used if routing a decorative edge. Adjust the length of the sides accordingly. Store-bought trim can also be used.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Nov
22
2013
Project Details

The countdown to the holidays has officially begun and chances are some of you are hosting this year. If so, a buffet or sideboard might be just what you need to help the holidays go a bit more smoothly. Perfect for that extra storage you will need, and a lovely place to set all of your side dishes during your feast! Let a little sawdust fly and help alleviate some of that holiday stress! Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 13 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 4’
  • 4 – 2x4 at 6’
  • 2 – 3x3 posts at 6’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the top
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 2 cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 3x3 posts at 30-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x4 at 12-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 27 – 1x3 at 23-1/2” – Side & Back Slats
  • 4 – 2x4 at 42-1/2” – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 42-1/2” – Bottom & Shelf
  • 2 – 2x2 (ripped to 1-1/4” wide) at 12-1/2” – Shelf Support
  • 1 – 2x2 (ripped to 1-1/4” wide) at 42-1/2” – Back Shelf Support
  • 1 – 1x2 at 42-1/2” – Front Shelf Support
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12-1/2” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 45-1/2” – Top Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 47-1/2” – Top
  • 4 – 1x3 at 23-1/4” – Door Frame
  • 6 – 1x3 at 16” – Door Frame
  • 14 – 1x3 at 23-1/4” – Door Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 23-1/4” – Door Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the slats so that the front face is set back ½” from the outside face of the frame. Secure inside the side frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the back slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the slats so that the front face is set back ½” from the outside face of the frame. Secure inside the back frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Nov
20
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Emmerson Full Sized Bed. We have so many amazing pieces in the Emmerson Collection so far and several more to come! For each of the pieces in this collection, you can stain them in a striped pattern to mimic slats or you can substitute for actual slats of different boards with different amounts of weathering and stain colors.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

 

  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber

 

  • Two sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 4x4 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 15 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • One set of Bed Rail Brackets
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

 

  • 2 – 4x4 at 44” – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 36” x 50” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 1x4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 50” – Headboard/Footboard Top
  • 2 – 4x4 at 15-1/2” – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 50” – Footboard Panel
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 76” – Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 72” – Slat Supports
  • 15 – 1x3 at 55-1/2” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

Apply optional edge banding to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the panel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

 

Cut the pieces for the footboard legs and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the panel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 

Cut the pieces for the sides and the slat support. Attach the slat supports to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws leaving 2” at each end for the bed hardware. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the pieces for the slats. The slats will be spaced approximately 2-1/2” apart. Attach to the supports using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue! The slats may have to be removed at some point to take the bed apart!

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Pages

drupal counter