Circular Saw

Free Woodworking Plans to Build the Easiest Wall Cabinet Ever

06|16|11

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Project Details

Have you always wanted to have the Kitchen of Your Dreams, but didn't think you could? Too expensive? Not a DIY project you feel comfortable handling? Say no more... We continue our Dream Kitchen Series with a Single Wall Cabinet. We will continue with door and drawer stylings as well as double and triple cabinet systems.

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
Saw
**Kreg Jig - optional, can be done without...but honestly not sure why you would want to. This tool simplifies the building process exponentially.
** Finish nail gun - optional, but will make the process faster and easier especially if you are working on an entire kitchen!

Lumber

**You can buy full sheets if you plan to build several cabinets.
1/2 sheet- 3/4" Plywood (a lower grade is fine).
1/2 sheet - 1/2" Plywood (a lower grade is fine)
1/2 sheet - 1/4" Plywood (this will be showing on the sides of outside cabinets, but will not show on the back or inside cabinet walls).
1 - 1x2 @ 8'
1 - 1x3 @ 6'

Materials

**Kreg Jig Owners: 1" Pocket Hole Screws, 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
1 1/4" Screws 5/8" Screws
2" Finish Nails
3" drywall screws or wall dog anchors
12 adjustable shelf pins (for 3 shelves)
1 pair of overlay hinges door handle
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 - 1/4" Ply @ 30" x 11 1/4" Outside Panels
1 - 1/4" Ply @ 29 1/4" x 17 1/2" Back
2 - 1/2" Ply @ 26 3/4" x 10 7/8" Inside Upper Panels
2 - 1/2" Ply @ 1 3/4" x 10 7/8" Inside Lower Panels
2 - 3/4" Ply @ 10 1/4" x 16 1/2" Shelves
1 - 3/4" Ply @ 10 7/8" x 17 1/2" Bottom Shelf
1 - 3/4" Ply @ 11 1/2" x 17 1/2" Top
2 - 1x2 @ 30" Sides of Face Frame
1 - 1x2 @ 15" Top Rail Face Frame
2- 1x2 @ 16 1/2" Cleats 1 - 1x3 @ 15" Bottom Rail Face Frame
2 - 3/4" x 3/4" Solid Trim for Shelves @ 16 1/2"

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut your Side Panels to size as indicated in the diagram below.

Step 2

We will begin constructing the interior panels: I have made this so easy for you in the way I have designed this. You don't need a table saw to create Dadoes, or a stopper on your drill for Shelf Bracket holes...it's just plain easy. Cut your interior panel pieces to size (this will be mirrored on the opposite side, so truly you will need 4 pieces total) and mark out the area for your shelf peg holes. You won't need them in the upper 3" or the bottom 8 3/4" or so, since you will have a bottom shelf. You can create a template with the dimensions shown below, for ease of use, then flip it around to do the other side. They also sell this sort of thing, and there is no reason why you can't simply mark out your places and drill, just be sure you are accurate so your shelf isn't sloping. Drill all the way through and don't worry about having to put a stopper on your drill. Easy... Space your holes about an 1 1/2" apart.

Step 3

Attach the cleats at the back of your side panels. It will sit flush with the top and back of the panels on both sides and flush with the top and back of the bottom panel as well. These can be attached using your Pocket Hole System set for 1/2" stock or with 1 1/4" Screws from the outside of the panels. This is how you will ultimately attach your cabinet to the wall using your dry wall screws.

Step 4

Attach the Outside Panels, and insert your bottom shelf. The bottom shelf will help you align your interior panels so they "fit" the outside panels properly. Attach the bottom shelf using your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" stock. It will attach to the bottom interior panels. Your outside panels will sit flush with the front of the Interior panels and there will be a 3/4" overhang on the top and 3/8" overhang at the back side to allow for the back and a bit of wiggle room later. Tack on the back, it will sit right inside the space created by the outside panels and will stop flush with the cleats at the top. Use 5/8" screws to attach the interior and exterior panels together along with glue and use 5/8" screws or 1" nails to secure the back to the interior panels, cleats and shelf.

Step 5

Cut your shelves to size, attach the solid trim to the front edge using finish nails and glue. Attach the top to the interior panels, cleat, and the back. Use your Kreg Jig to attach from the interior panels underneath set for 1/2" stock or 5/8" screws from the top down into the interior panels.

Step 6

Build the Face Frame: use your Pocket hole System to build the frame, and place your pocket holes in the rails (horizontal pieces) set for 3/4" stock. Then attach to the cabinet using 2" finish nails. If you aren't using a PHS, attach the Frame pieces directly to the cabinet using 2" finish nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

This post brought to you by Linencupboard

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Comments

Free Woodworking Plans to Build an Under Sink Base Cabinet

06|15|11

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

On we head through our Dream Kitchen Series, with a Base Cabinet for your sink area. This unit is similar to a standard double base cabinet in size, yet is quite different in construction, in that it needs to house a sink component as well as disguise the fact that it is housing it, at least from the front. It's also typically more functional to have one single lower cabinet underneath the sink with french doors in essence, rather than 2 separate cabinets, or doors that are separated by part of the face frame.

We will continue with additional wall and base cabinet systems, a few other specialty items, and quite a few styling options for doors and drawers...stay tuned for those.

This plan will have a false drawer front on top, to blend with the other pieces in your kitchen and hide your sink component, while still remaining functional for the sink. It calls for double doors that will are slightly larger than what is required if the double base unit has a divider since we will want the doors to be wide enough to close completely without leaving a gap. If you prefer to have one of those little tilt out drawers (not really a drawer, not a cabinet exactly either, but can't recall what these are called at the moment) instead of a having a simple and stationary false front (to hold sponges or scrubbers perhaps), I will provide a plan for that as well, and you will have the option.

Renter's Solution to a Dining Room Chalkboard Wall

05|31|11

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Project Details

We are currently renting our home, and sadly that means the wonderful chalkboard painted walls I see in dining areas have been off limits to me. Until now... This project is also perfect for the commitment-phobe who can't pull the trigger on painting an entire wall with a dark color!

A few months back I sent the hubs to Home Depot to purchase a sheet of MDF for a Craft Space Desk I was building, plans for that can be found here, and he was supposed to have them cut it down into 2 pieces, one at 3’x8’ and the other at 1’ by 8’. Well it didn’t quite go down that way and lo and behold he came home with 2 pieces each 2’ wide and unfortunately not usable without changing the dimensions of the desk I was building, which I had already begun and couldn’t easily do…needless to say the pieces sat unused taking up precious workspace in my garage for months. In the effort to pair down and trim the fat around these parts, I decided that until I could figure out what to use them for, that wasn’t a frivolous build, that I would paint them with chalkboard paint and lean them against the wall in a faux chalkboard painted wall motif (this type of build is off limits to me in the essence of building for necessity only and pairing down rather than junking up our lives…duh)! Yay for finding a way to clear a little extra room in the garage and also get something fun and new that I didn’t think I would be able to have in a rented space!

I felt like a genius for a brief moment and ran right out to the store to get paint! I love black chalkboard paint. In fact I think it looks quite elegant, but this area of my home lacks color and so I thought perhaps I would try the tintable chalkboard paint by Rustoleum. I have a bit of a green thing going on in the downstairs rooms, so either the deep teal or the schoolroom green would be the best possibilities. In fact as far as the samples suggest they are very close in color only the teal has a bit more of a blue base to it, and was also a color of chalkboard I recall having at school when I was growing up, so I chose that! All the way home I questioned whether I should have gone with the black because I simply adore how that looks in a room. But, I chose the teal and will live with it for a while and see if I want to paint it black or if I was right on the money needing a bit of color…this remains to be seen, but for now, I will share the process with you!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Tools

Saw – this is optional and you can have your lumber store cut your sheet of MDF down for you into a size you can transport easily as well as into the sizes necessary to frame out your MDF with 1x2’s.

Lumber

1 Sheet of 1/2” MDF – you can also use 3/4” but 1/2” will be less expensive.
5 – 1x2 at 8’ – this is optional if you would like to trim out your mdf to give it a framed look. This is my plan as soon as I decide if I will change the color.

Materials

1 Qt. Chalkboard Paint in a color of your choice
1 – Ultra Fine Foam Roller

Instructions

Step 1

Begin by cutting your sheet of MDF in half width wise if you haven’t already, into 2’ x 8’ sections. Dust them off well to remove any debris and sawdust so your paint will apply more perfectly.

Step 2

I like to use a small disposable trim cup with my small-ish roller because it is easy to hang on to, and roll the roller on the flat edge to remove excess paint. You can tell from the picture I haven’t disposed of it yet and I don’t plan to anytime soon, so it’s money well spent in my book!

Step 3

Begin to roll a thin coat of your paint onto your boards being carefull not to overlap onto the edges if you don’t intend to frame them out. The other option might also be iron on edge banding and then you could paint right on top of it, but I didn’t do this since I do plan to frame them out one of these days… Once that first coat has dried, start again with another thin coat and be sure you are covering every section of the board. If you have been thorough in your coats of paint (note I said thorough, not thick…just sayin’) you may be able to get away with just the 2 coats!

Step 4

The paint product suggests you need to let it cure for 3 days before conditioning.

Step 5

To condition, you need to prime your surface with chalk! This is the fun part, truly! Slather that baby up using the side of your chalk and cover the entire surface!

Step 6

Then simply wipe it down and use till your hearts content! If your boards are as large as mine you may thenneed to then wipe down your entire surrounding area as well, talk about a dust storm of chalk! I am sure I took a few years off my life inhaling it…in fact perhaps a mask is a good idea! eek..

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

So what do you think, is the green the way to have gone or do you think I might like the black more? I am feeling super indecisive about it…

Disclaimer

Comments

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a CB2 Inspired Sawyer Adirondack Chair

05|31|11

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Project Details

This chair is such a fabulous take on the Beloved Adirondack Chair, Extremely Inexpensive to Build, and a Piece of Cake To Construct! The most difficult portion of this plan is the cutting, and even that should actually be a bit of a fun challenge, nothing to difficult that you can’t tackle it easily!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Sander
Drill
Table Saw – this plan calls for you to rip down a 1x6 into 4 1/2” strips and make angled cuts.
Circular Saw or Jig Saw – you will need to make one odd angled cut that is not possible on a Miter Saw and a circular or jig saw should do the trick.
Kreg Jig® (pocket hole system)
Nail Gun – optional and you can use screws instead of nails.

Lumber

1 – 1x2 at 6’
1 – 1x4 at 8’ ** you can also purchase fence boards like this for savings, you will need to purchase 2 if you do this since they come in 6’ lengths and your will need to cut off the dog eared portion.
3 – 1x6 at 8’ **you can also purchase fence boards like this for big savings, you will need to purchase 5 if you do this since they come in 6’ lengths and you will need to cut off the dog eared portion.
** Cut your Front Leg Pieces out first and then rip the remaining portion or that board and the remaining boards into 4 1/2” widths for the Seat and Back.
2 – 1x8 at 8’

Materials

1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws – Stainless Steel or Blue Kote
1 1/4” Wood Screws – Galvanized or Coated OR 1 1/4” Galvanized Nails or Finish Nails
Wood Glue – suitable for outdoor use Sanding Supplies Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x8 at 28” Outer Lower Legs
2 – 1x8 at 30” Outer Upper Legs
2 – 1x8 at 36” Inner Lower Legs
2 – 1x6 at 21” Front Legs
8 – 1x6 (ripped down into 4 1/2” width strips) at 25” Seat and Back OR 6 – 1x6 at 25” if preferred.
1 – 1x2 at 25” Support Trim
1 – 1x2 at 1 1/2” Triangular Pieces (2) for Arm Support
1 – 1x4 at 26 1/2” Back (Rail) of the Arm Unit
2 – 1x4 at 31 3/4” Arms

Instructions

**The most difficult portion of this project will be the cuts for the Inner and Outer Legs. I am including a link to a Downloadable Protractor for you to use if you don’t have one because at least one of your cuts is beyond the capabilities of a Miter Saw and will require that you draw it out and use either a circular saw or jig saw to cut if you can’t get creative with a table saw.
**Note that since a Miter Saw works from a 0 point at the 90 Degree Mark, I have labeled the cuts according to a negative and positive angle for which a negative angle will represent everything to the left of the 0 point (your standard 90 degree mark). When an angle is listed as being such and such degrees OFF CENTER this is meaning that you should adjust your blade to that angle from the 0 point, in either the left or right direction depending on whether the angle has a negative sign in front of it or not! A –12.3 Degree Off Center designation will mean that you will adjust your blade to the left at 12.3 degrees. Since each cut is based off the previous cut, you will need to rotate your board to align that previous cut edge up with the back fence on your saw. Each newly cut edge will become the starting side when determining the next cut. ** Be sure you refer to the images frequently when making your cuts to be sure you are cutting in the right direction and that your piece is shaping up similarly to what you see in the diagrams.
** You are going to need to rip 1x6 boards into a 4 1/2” width (reduce in width by 1” if you are considering the actual measurements of a 1x6) if you want to build the most similar chair to the original inspiration piece. If you are unable to do this and don’ t have a table saw, you can use the 1x6 as is and you will use 1 less board for the seat and 1 less board for the back and they will need to be spaced 1 1/2” apart rather than 1”. To do this most efficiently, cut your Front Leg Pieces from one of the 1x6 boards, and then rip the remaining portion and remaining boards into 4 1/2” widths.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut Out your Outer Lower Legs: The first diagram shows you how to connect the dots to create the shape you need for this portion and corresponds to the angles shown in the diagram below that. They are shown upside down to allow for the longest edge to be the starting point. Each cut is going to be based off of the cut prior to it, other than the first cut which will work off the Starting Side as designated below. Each time you make a cut, you will then rotate your piece around and line that cut edge up along the back fence on your saw to use as your new starting side. **Be sure you have read my notes in the Instruction Section above for further details on making your cuts. There is a link to a downloadable protractor which you will need if you don’t already own one for at least one of the cuts in the next couple of steps.

Step 2

Cut Out your Outer Upper Legs: The first diagram shows you how to connect the dots to create the shape you need for this portion and corresponds to the angles shown in the diagram below that. They are shown upside down to allow for the longest edge to be the starting point. Each cut is going to be based off of the cut prior to it, other than the first cut which will work off the Starting Side as designated below. Each time you make a cut, you will then rotate your piece around and line that cut edge up along the back fence on your saw to use as your new starting side.

Step 3

Attach the Outer Upper and Lower Legs: Using your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue you will fasten the pieces together as shown below. The pieces you cut in Step 2 will be the pieces you see below in blue, they are the Upper Legs.

Step 4

Cut Out your Inner Lower Legs: The first diagram shows you how to connect the dots to create the shape you need for this portion and corresponds to the angles shown in the diagram below that. They are shown upside down to allow for the longest edge to be the starting point. Each angle on the second image is going to be based off of the angle prior to it, other than the first cut which will work off the Starting Side as designated below. Each time you make a cut, you will then rotate your piece around and line that cut edge up along the back fence on your saw to use as your new starting side. After you have cut out your Inner Lower Legs, you will attach them to the Outer Leg Units allowing the Starting Side to be flush with the Bottom of the Outer Lower Leg. The Top of the Inner Lower Leg will sit 3/4” lower than the Top of the Outer Lower Leg to allow for the Seat Slats later, and will sit back 3/4” from the front edge to allow for the Support Trim in Step 6. The Back of the Inner Lower Leg will extend back past the Back edge of the Outer Lower Leg and will act as the actual portion that rests on the ground. Refer to the Project Image above for reference as to how this lays out.

Step 5

Cut Out your Front Legs: This is most easily done by marking out 21” and then a 2” width on one end and a line made between that 2” edge and the existing edge 21” up from it. Then attach to the Leg Units by fastening it from the inside using 1 1/4” Screws and glue.

Step 6

Attach the Support Trim: Fasten in place using 1 1/4” Screws and glue or Finish Nails, and fasten them into the Inner Lower Legs.

Step 7

Tack on the Seat Slats: You will need to rip a 1x6 to down into a 1 x 4 1/2” (shave off 1” of width) panel to most accurately depict the original piece, however if you aren’t able to do this I would recommend using the 1x6 in it’s original width and you will use 3 rather than 4 and space them 1 1/2” apart rather than 1”. This will look equally as nice, it just isn’t precisely the same as the original piece. Attach the Seat Slats as shown below using 1 1/4” screws and glue or galvanized nails.

Step 8

Attach the Back Rest Panels: You will cut a 1x6 to size (rip it into a 1 x 4 1/2) just as you did in the previous step and you will attach them to the Outer Upper Leg using your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue or 1 1/4” Screws or Galvanized Nails. The Back Rest Panels will be fastened in place flush with the inside edge of the Outer Upper Leg and should begin 1/4” from the Top of the Outer upper Leg and then be placed 1” apart after that.

Step 9

Construct the Arm Unit: Create your pocket holes for your arm unit, using your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and place them as shown below in the Rail (blue) and the Arms (green) at the place they will fasten to the Outer Upper Legs (this is determined by where the arm units will hit if they are perfectly perpendicular to the Front Legs). Build part of a Face Frame for the Arm Unit by using your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the Rail to the Stiles (Blue to Green). Then you will fasten the arm unit to the Outer Upper Leg. Fasten the Arm Unit to the Front Legs using 1 1/4” Screws or Galvanized Nails. Support the Arm Unit using a 1 1/2” triangular piece as shown below. Fasten it in place approximately in the Center of the Side of the Front Leg using 1 1/4” screws or Galvanized Nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

Comments

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Provence Console Table

08|23|10

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Project Details

I am really excited to share this collection with you. The table from this collection has been our most popular by far, and built the most frequently! It combines some of the best features of Rustic, French Country, and Farmhouse styles yet maintains a modern sensibility. This table uses nothing but 2x4's and will come in at Under $25! If you can find reclaimed wood, that will add something special to this piece!

This collection is actually meant for outdoor use and has board spacing to accommodate water run off or potential weather issues that may arise. This would be equally as fabulous indoors behind a sofa or in an entry way, however.

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Tools

Tape Measure
Sander
Drill
Saw - Table Saw or circular saw, something that will allow you to make a bevel cut running the length of the board for the leg pieces.
**Kreg Jig - Optional, and can be built without one, but will have many unsightly attachments (make sure you countersink to prevent this as much as possible if you aren't using a Pocket Hole System) for this project and as is the case with most projects, would definitely benefit from using one. This project in particular will benefit from hidden fastening.

Lumber

6 - 2x4 @ 10'
1 - 2x4 @ 8'

Materials

**Kreg Jig Owners: 1 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws (PHS).
2 1/2" Screws 2" Screws
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

8 - 2x4 @ 28 1/2" (Legs)
2 - 2x4 @ 47" (Lower Frame)
4 - 2x4 @ 9 1/2" (Frame)
2 - 2x4 @ 43" (Front Back Aprons)
2 - 2x4 @ 8 1/2" (Side Aprons)
2 - 2x4 @ 46 1/2" (Front Back Top Boards)
2 - 2x4 @ 12" (Side Boards)
2 - 2x4 @ 12 1/2" (Supports)
6 - 2x4 @ 50" (Middle Bottom Shelf Boards and Table Top)
2 - 2x4 @ 47" (Bottom Outside Shelf Boards)

Instructions

** Since this project can be used outdoors, consider finishing each board prior to assembling to ensure the most water tight and protected coating. Certain wood species tend to be a bit better for outdoor use as a general rule: Cedar, Redwood, and Teak are a few.

Step 1

Carve out a 1 3/4" Square from each of the the legs (8) in total (only 4 showing below). Then bevel the longer edge of each leg at a 45° Angle.

Step 2

Fasten 2 Boards with Opposing Edges together. For Kreg Owners, use your PHS on the inside of the 2 leg boards, and for those of you who are counter sinking, use 2" Screws on the outside.

Step 3

Kreg Owners: Attach the Aprons to the Legs first, then build the Frame and Fasten to the Aprons and Legs. Non Kreg Owners: Build the Frame and fasten to the Legs, then Attach the Aprons by fasten from inside the frame to hide screw holes.

Step 4

Fasten the Bottom Shelf Boards to the Frame and Aprons: Carve a 2" x 1 1/2" square from each corner of the Outside Boards to allow it to fit inside the Leg area. Space the Boards 1/2" Apart.

Step 5

Attach the Top Boards to the Legs: Carve out a 1 3/4" Square from the edges of each Board (Front, Back, and Sides). Kreg Owners: You can skip to the next step and complete that first if it's easier to do, then return to this step and use your PHS on the inside to fasten these boards to the Legs. Non Kreg Owners, fasten from the top on the Longer edge down into the Legs, use 2 1/2" Screws.

Step 6

Fasten the Supports to the Front and Back Top Boards. Measurements shown are from the edge of the Front and Back Boards, not the outside edge of the Table.

Step 7

Fasten the Table Top to the Supports and Top Boards: Use 2 1/2" Screws or Nails, just be sure to countersink and pre-drill for the most professional appearance if using screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

Comments

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Cross Frame Coffee Table

07|22|10

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Project Details

This collection is really fun, and easy to build. Perfect for a low cost build with a ton of style!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
Saw ** Miter Saw or Miter Box and Hand Saw - Optional for mitering the bottom and outside edges of the Legs, Bases, and Outside Cross Bars.
** Kreg Jig - Optional, and can be built without one, but will have a few tricky attachments for this project and as is the case with most projects, would definitely benefit from using one.

Lumber

1 Sheet - 3/4" Plywood (my lumber supply sells 2' x 4' sheets for around 1/3 of the cost of an entire 4' x 8' sheet, check to see if yours will do this for you and you will reduce your cost quite a bit and you won't have a lot of excess)
1 - 1x2 @ 10'
1 - 1x2 @ 6'
If mitering you will need: 1 - 2x3 @ 10' OR 1 - 2x3 @ 8' If you aren't mitering: 2 - 2x3 @ 8'

Materials

**Kreg Jig Owners: 1 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws.
3" Screws - ** Kreg Owners will not need this item and will use the 1 1/2" PHS in place of this.
2 1/2" Screws
1 1/4" Screws
2" Finish Nails (you can also use the 1 1/4" Screws for the table trim if you prefer not to buy this or don't have a finish nail gun)
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

**Note: I am providing 2 cut measurements for a few pieces that have the option of being mitered.

6 - 2x3 @ 18 1/2" (Legs)
3 - 2x3 @ 19" (Bases and Center Cross Bar) ** you will change 2 of these 3 above to 22" (Bases) if mitering.
2 - 2x3 @ 6 1/2" (Outside Cross Bars) ** this will become 8" if mitering.
2 - 1x2 @ 22" (Sides of the Frame)
2 - 1x2 @ 37" (Front and Back of the Frame)
1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 40"x22" (Table Top)
2 - 1x2 @ 41 1/2" (Table Trim)
2 - 1x2 @ 22" (Table Trim) ** this will become 23 1/2" if mitering

Instructions

Step 1

Attach the Center Legs to their Bases and attach the Center Cross Bar: Use 3" Screws. ** You can miter the edges of the Legs and Base pieces for a more polished appearance and so that you attach from underneath (this is helpful if you aren't using a Kreg Jig so that you can hide your screws), but this is not entirely necessary and as you can see below looks just fine without mitered edges. Without mitered Leg/Base, and with mitered Leg/Base, respectively:

Step 2

Attach the Outside Cross Bars: if you are planning on mitering the leg/base connections, you will want to miter the outside edge of these before you attach them in this step (they will also be a tad longer if you are mitering, see cut list above). This is the trickiest portion of this plan if you aren't using a Kreg Jig. You will need to attach the Outside Cross Bars to the Bases by fastening them from a spot near the circle shown in the diagram below. You will fasten from the outside edges of each Cross Bar, inward at an angle into your Base (forming an X shape with your screws when they are both fastened).

Step 3

Attach the Outside Legs: Use 3" Screws if you are going to fasten them as shown below. You can also miter the bottom of the Legs, in which case a 2 1/2" Screw will be more appropriate. Kreg Jig Owners, use your trusty 1 1/2" PHS.

Step 4

Build your Table Frame: Use your Pocket Hole system to fasten the frame pieces to each other and then attach to each leg using 2 1/2" Screws. Otherwise, attach the frame pieces together using 2 1/2" Screws and then fasten to the Legs. This frame serves the purpose of providing something to attach your table top to, so that you won't have to make visible holes in it.

Step 5

Attach your Table Top: Use 1 1/4" Screws and fasten to the frame from underneath, all the way around. No visible screw holes...

Step 6

Trim out the Table Top: Use 2" Finish Nails to attach, or if you have trouble with this (because you don't have a finish nail gun and doing it by hand is hard) you can also use your 1 1/4" Screws, just be strategic in where you place them and how many you use along each edge. ** Optional - for a very polished appearance you can miter the corners of your trim pieces. Without mitered trim, and with mitered tr:m, respectively:

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

Disclaimer

Comments

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Low Rolling Activity Table

06|27|10

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Project Details

This project kicks off a whole new set of fun! While I was doing some inspiration seeking for this series of kiddo furniture, I remembered something from my own child hood. When I was about 10 or 11, I picked out a bedroom set that was modular furniture with all sorts of storage and rearranging options. For me and my A-type personality, this was the most amazing fun.

I would sit for hours trying to decide on the most perfect organization for my stuff (ok, so I was the strangest 10 year old known to man, but design has ALWAYS been in my blood) and how best to set up vignettes of all of my pretty things and toys for display. I never did much playing with toys for me it was always about how they would look out on display and arranged with other things.

Alright so as I put this in type, I am realizing just how truly weird I might have been (still am?)! But, the point remains... I found some fabulous inspiration for toddler to young adult rooms that will keep your kiddos happy for hours on end, and allow them the fabulous creativity of designing their own lives just as I was able to do! This is just one piece of the pie. I will be creating dozens more over time and you (and perhaps your child) can determine which you like best and which fit your lifestyle needs most.

I want bold and fun colors people! If you aren't sure how to pull that off, send me an email, I respond quickly (unlike other bloggers I know...ahem!) and I am glad to put my passion to work! Bold and fun are well balanced with neutral and sophisticated colors. I am not talking primary colors folks...let's just pretend that is a thing of the past, shall we?

Here is the activity table with the simple floating display shelves and a few extra cube shelves which I will share later with an explanation on how to make this kid safe:

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Tools

Tape Measure
Square
Sander - or a Sanding Block.
Saw - to cut your pieces to size.
Drill

Lumber

1 - Sheets of 3/4" MDF
A sheet is typically 4'x8'.
2 - 1x3 @ 10' or 3 - @ 8'

Materials

** Optional - Qty 6 - 2" Casters - plastic will work fine or you can purchase casters with a break as well, to hold the table in place when desired.
#6 - 2" Coarse Thread Screws (or drywall screws)
#6 - 1 1/4" Coarse Thread Screws (or drywall screws)
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Spackle or Iron on Edge Banding
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

Note: If this table is too large for your space, you can alter the length or width of it. Just make sure to allow for that in the remainder of your cuts. **If you plan to add casters, consider altering (lowering) the height of the Cubes and the Legs by 3 1/2" or so to keep this table low enough for young children. If your kiddos are older this is likely not necessary.
2 - 3/4" Sheet of MDF @ 12 x 30" (Top & Bottom of Cubes)
2 - 3/4" Sheet of MDF @ 14 5/8 x 12" (Front Cube Sides)
2 - 3/4" Sheet of MDF @ 12 x 12" (Back Cube Sides)
1 - 3/4" Sheet of MDF @ 30 x 36" (Top)
4 - 1x3 @ 28 1/2" (Top and Bottom of the Leg and Sides of Trim for Table Top)
2 - 1x3 @ 13 1/2" (Sides - Leg)
2 - 1x3 @ 37 1/2" (Table Top Trim - Front and Back)

Instructions

Step 1

Build the Leg and Bottom and Sides of Cubes: Use 2" Screws and Glue. The outside of the Leg and Cubes will sit 3' apart from outside edge to outside edge. The dimensions are shown below.

Step 2

Attach the Top to the cubes: Use 2" Screws and Glue.

Step 3

Attach the Table Top to the Leg and Cubes: Use 2" Screws and Glue.

Step 4

Attach the Trim to the Table Top allowing it to extend 1" above the top of the table top. This will create a lip to keep those toys and fun contained! Use 1 1/4" Screws and Glue.