Browse all Free Woodworking Plans that Require a Circular Saw

Oct
23
2013
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Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Wood Curio Case! The perfect display case for all of your pretties! Can't wait to see what you put in yours! Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 half sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 2’ of rope for the handles
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 16” x 27” – Bottom
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 5” x 16” – Sides
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 5” x 28” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 4-1/2” x 27” – Long Dividers
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 4-1/2” x 16” – Short Dividers
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top and bottom. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw. Insert the pieces into the box as shown, then secure using 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the dividers.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Mark the position of the handles and drill holes big enough for the rope to pass through. Knot the rope on the inside.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
21
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a La Jolla Sideboard! This project was a reader suggestion, but little did they know we actually had this on our radar already and so of course jumped at the chance to move it to the front of the line! Afterall, we love a good reader project request! Don't forget you too can request projects in the project request section of our forum! Not to mention you can ask questions or share your latest projects and ideas!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$150-$200

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x4 at 4’
  • 1 half sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • ½” brad nails
  • 1” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 6 sets of European concealed hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 33-3/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 79-1/2” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 33” x 79-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 33” – Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 81” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 26” – Shelves
  • 8 – 2x4 at 5” - Feet
  • 6 – ½” plywood at 13-3/16” x 32-3/4” – Door Base
  • Strips of ¼” plywood at 2-1/2” wide – Herringbone Pattern
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 12-13/16” x 32-3/4” – Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece, as well as the top end of the side pieces. Secure the Bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the back. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends, as well as one long edge. Position in the cabinet as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Position on the cabinet with the front overlapping by ¾” then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the underside.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Position inside the cabinet locating the shelves ¾” back from the front edge, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the feet. The front feet will extend past the front edge of the bottom ¾” while the back feet will be flush with the back edge of the cabinet. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the base pieces for the doors from the ½” plywood and from the ¾” plywood. Secure the ½” plywood to the ¾” plywood with one long edge and both short edges flush (the ½” plywood will overhang one end by 3/8”) using glue and 1” brad nails.

Cut 2-1/2” wide strips from the ¼” plywood. Position the first strip at the upper inside corner of the door base setting it at a 45 degree angle. Secure using glue and ½” brad nails. If the strips are cut a little longer than the door, they can be cut flush to the base using a router and a straight flush-cutting router bit. Repeat for all of the door fronts noting that there will be three right doors, and three left doors.

Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. The ¾” portion of the door base will fit inside the opening with a 1/8” gap around all sides as well as in between. The 3/8” portion with the herringbone pattern will sit on top of the sides and dividers, overlapping by 1/4”. After installing the hinges, make any necessary adjustments.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
18
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Tribeca Double Storage Case! We covered the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Tribeca Single Storage Case not long ago and now the second piece in this collection for the double unit! Isn't this collection fun? I just love it! Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg jig
Lumber

For each cubby:

  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 quarter sheet of ¾” plywood

For each drawer:

  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood (3 drawers can be constructed from one full sheet of ¾’ plywood)
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 4 - 4” casters
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

For each cubby:

  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 40” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 15” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 38-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 14-1/4” – Divider

For each box:

  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 17-1/8” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 13” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 18-5/8” – Front & Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

For the cubby:

Cut the pieces for the top, bottom, and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Secure to the top and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Insert into the box frame  then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the divider. Insert the pieces into the box as shown, then secure using glue and  1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

For the boxes:

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the side pieces. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the front and back. Cut the notch using a jigsaw then secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the drawer to help it slide smoothly in the opening.

Step 5
Step 6

If building multiple cubbies, stack and secure them with countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Attach casters according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
14
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hudson Nightstand. By special reader request we are expanding upon this fabulous collection we started a long time ago in a far off land... At least it feels that way. It's lovely to bring it back full circle and round out our plans for the gorgesou Hudson Collection! Hope you like... Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 - quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – ¼” thick x ¾” wide lattice strips at 8’
  • 1 piece of ¾” cove moulding at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • ½” brad nails
  • 1” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 4 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 4 drawer pulls
  • 1 small pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 16-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 20” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 2x2 at 21-1/2” – Back Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 21-1/2” – Back Panel
  • 6 – 1x2 at 21-1/2” – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16-1/4” – Surface Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 26” – Top
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 17-3/4” x 21-1/4” – Flat Surface
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 19” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 8 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 8 – 1x3 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 4-3/8” x 21-1/4” – Drawer Front Base
  • 8 – ¼” x ¾” strips at 21-1/4” – Drawer Front Trim
  • 8 – ¼” x ¾” strips at 2-7/8” – Drawer Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame and the panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the first one as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the remaining stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the surface supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the vertical stretcher and the back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. The piece will overhang the sides and the front by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the surface. After finishing, apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom so it will slide smoothly. Insert into the opening.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs, then make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the trim then attach using glue and 1” brad nails. 

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer front bases and the trim. Position the trim on the bases as shown then secure using glue and ½” brad nails.

Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the front in the opening) then drive screws through the holes for the pulls into the drawer boxes. Open the drawer then secure the front with countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Make any necessary adjustments then finish drilling the holes for the pulls.

Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
09
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Carr Desk! I just love a good desk wtih substantial lines, don't you? Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 8 – ¼” x ½” x 3’ craft boards
  • 1 quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • ½” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 4 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 6 drawer pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 29-1/4” – Sides & Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 29-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 30” – Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 15-3/4” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 30” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 30” – Large Shelf
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 18-1/4” – Small Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 49-1/2” – Top
  • 4 – 1x3 at 19” – Lower Trim
  • 1 – 1x3 at 2-1/4” – Lower Trim
  • 1 – 1x3 at 18-3/4” – Lower Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 27-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 29” – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 14-1/2” – Side Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Side Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1x3 at 14-3/4” – Side Drawer Box Fronts & Backs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 14-1/2” – Large Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 14-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 14-3/4” – Large Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 4-1/2” x 29-3/4” – Center Drawer Front
  • 5 – ½” plywood at 4-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Side Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ½ (ripped to 5/8” wide) at 15-1/2” long – Large Drawer Front Spacers
  • 12 – ¼” x ½” craft board strips at 4-1/2” – Drawer Front Trim
  • 2 – ¼” x ½”– craft board strips at 28-3/4” – Center Drawer Front Trim
  • 10 – ¼” x ½” craft board strips at 14-1/2” – Side Drawer Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and divider, and the backs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back pieces as shown. Secure to the sides and divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Position the pieces as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the center shelf and the side shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side and back edges of each piece. Position the shelves as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Position as shown with the sides and front overlapping by ¾”, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the lower trim. Secure the sides first, using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then secure the front pieces.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the side pieces. Attach the side pieces to the bottoms using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the front and back pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides and divider to allow for the drawer fronts. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts as well as the spacers for the large drawer front. For the large drawer front only, set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Position the spacers between the drawer fronts and secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. The back face of these drawer fronts will be flush with the back face of the spacer – the front of the spacer will stick out ¼” to allow for the trim.

Cut the pieces for the trim. Secure the side pieces first using glue and ½” brad nails, then secure the top and bottom pieces.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Shim the drawer fronts in the openings – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides in the opening. Secure the drawer fronts to the drawer boxes using 1” brad nails. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Install the drawer pulls.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
07
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Tribeca Single Storage Case! The Tribeca Collection promises to be a fun and stylish easy to build collection of pieces and I can't wait to roll out more of these pieces! Yahoo! Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg jig
Lumber

For each cubby:

  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood

For each drawer:

  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood (3 drawers can be constructed from one full sheet of ¾’ plywood)
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 4 - 4” casters
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

For each cubby:

  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 20” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 15” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 18-1/2” – Back

For each box:

  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 17-1/8” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 13” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 18-5/8” – Front & Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

For the cubby:

Cut the pieces for the top, bottom, and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Secure to the top and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Insert into the box frame  then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

For the boxes:

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the side pieces. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the front and back. Cut the notch using a jigsaw then secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the drawer to help it slide smoothly in the opening.

Step 4
Step 5

If building multiple cubbies, stack and secure them with countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Attach casters according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Step 5
Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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