Browse all Free Woodworking Plans for Bunk Beds

Jul
24
2012
Project Image
Project Details

Many of you have been asking and now I am finally answering your pleas for this loft bunk that would accomodate a full sized mattress. Easy to build, and extremely budget friendly, this Free Woodworking plan to build a full sized low loft bunk is just the project for those of you who need a bit more vertical storage space. I always say, 'when in doubt...build up'!

Showcase: Built From These Plans

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander - if you are using Pine and staining you will need a Variable Random Orbital Sander, otherwise any automatic sander will work even the cheaper ones!
  • Saw
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig®
Lumber
  • 2 - 4x4 at 10' Fence Posts - untreated
  • 1 - 2x6 at 10'
  • 2 - 2x6 at 8'
  • 3 - 2x4 at 10'
  • 5 - 2x4 at 8'
  • 1 - 2x4 at 6'
  • 1 - 2x4 at 6'
  • 5 - 1x4 at 10'
  • 1 - 1x4 at 8'
  • 1 - 1x4 at 6'
Materials
  • Qty 8 - 5/16" Carriage Bolts at 7" length Qty 8 -
  • Washers Qty 8 
  • Nuts Qty 8 - Nuts with rounded covers
  • 3" Screws
  • 2" Screws
  • 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
  • 1 1/4" Screws
  • Wood Filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 at 54" (Legs)
  • 2 - 2x6 at 76" (Front and Back Rails)
  • 2 - 2x6 at 58" (Side Rails)
  • 3 - 2x4 at 76" (Upper Back Rails and Center Joist)
  • 4 - 2x4 at 58" (Upper Side Rails)
  • 1 - 2x4 at 23 1/2" (Front Guard Rail)
  • 2 - 2x4 at 57" (Front Upper Rails)
  • 2 - 2x4 at 60" (Ladder Rails)
  • 4 - 2x4 at 14" (Ladder Rungs)
  • 2 - 1x4 at 76" (Cleats)
  • 11 - 1x4 at 55" (Slats)
Instructions

**I recommend finishing your boards and posts prior to assembling and simply touching up later. This will make for easier painting and will keep you from having to paint this wherever this piece will actually live (bedroom) since you will have to assemble it in the area it will be placed (at 45 or more inches wide this will not fit through a doorway after it's assembled).

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the Legs to size and attach the Cleat to the Front and Back Rails using 2" Screws.

To attach the Rails to the Legs you will arrange the 4 pieces as shown in the diagram below, making sure to leave 1 1/2" on either side of the Rails to allow for the Side Rails later, and clamp together making sure everything is completely square before you proceed. Once square and aligned as needed, you will use a 7/16" Drill Bit and drill through all 3 pieces on each side, creating 2 holes on either side for the bolts.

Fasten with your Carriage Bolts and tighten.

Step 1
Step 2

Attach the Side Rails to the Front and Back Rails then fasten the Upper Back Rails to the Back Legs. Once those are in place, fasten the Center Joist in roughly the center (duh). Use 3" Screws

Step 2
Step 3

Attach the Front Vertical Guard Rail, use 2" Screws. Then fasten the Front Upper Rails to it and the Front left or right Leg. Use 3" Screws to attach to the Leg.

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the Upper Side Rails on the side opposite where you choose to put the ladder, in my example this would be the left side. Use 3" Screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Lay your Slats approximately 4" apart. Be sure the 2 on the outside edges are flush in both corners. Screw down using 1 1/4" Screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Attach the remaining 2 upper Side Rails to the Back Rails and then either use a Pocket hole System (Kreg Jig) to create pocket holes and fasten to the front leg. If you don't own a Kreg Jig you can also countersink and predrill at an angle from the outside edge into the leg. Use 3" Screws

Step 6
Step 7

Create the Ladder. I give approximate dimensions for the height below, but the important aspect to focus on is the angle you will cut the top and bottom. The top of the ladder rails will be at a 75°angle and the bottom of the rails will be a 15°angle where the boards will rest on the ground.

Attach the rungs at approximately 8" apart (this will depend on the age of your kiddo, the smaller and younger, the closer together these should be, you need to consider how easy it will be for them to climb down) and parallel to the ground. Use 3" Screws to fasten the rungs to the rails and to fasten the rails to the Leg and Front Guard Rail. I suggest cutting away the point you will create at the very top, when you cut the 75°angle, for added safety. This will also give your ladder a bit of a hand grip up top.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

This post is brought to you by Bestlaminate -  offering premium laminate flooring

Kiddos 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Mar
26
2012
Project Image
Project Details

The twin sized version of this bed has been such a hit! And I am so glad because I absolutely love the loft bunk I built for my boy... and while I shared plans for a twin sized low loft bed (it's most common for a loft bed) I actually built mine in a toddler size (I wasn't ready to move up in mattress size in Monster Mash's tiny room). So now, you have asked and I shall comply...

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander 
  • Saw
  • Drill
Lumber
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 10' Fence Posts - untreated
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 8'
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 8'
  • 4 - 1x4 @ 8'
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 6'
Materials
  • Qty 8 - 5/16" Carriage Bolts at 7" length
  • Qty 8 - Washers
  • Qty 8 - Nuts
  • Qty 8 - Nuts with rounded covers
  • 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
  • 3" Screws
  • 2" Screws
  • 1 1/4" Screws
  • Wood Filler'
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 @ 54" (Legs)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 54" (Front and Back Rails)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 31" (Side Rails)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 54" (Upper Back Rails)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 31" (Upper Side Rails)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 23 1/2" (Front Guard Rail)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 35" (Front Upper Rails)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 60" (Ladder Rails)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 14" (Ladder Rungs)
  • 7 - 1x4 @ 28" (Slats)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 54" (Cleats)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the Legs to size and attach the Cleat to the Front and Back Rails using 2" Screws.

To attach the Rails to the Legs you will arrange the 4 pieces as shown in the diagram below, making sure to leave 1 1/2" on either side of the Rails to allow for the Side Rails later, and clamp together making sure everything is completely square before you proceed. Once square and aligned as needed, you will use a 7/16" Drill Bit and drill through all 3 pieces on each side, creating 2 holes on either side for the bolts.

Fasten with your Carriage Bolts and tighten.

Step 1
Step 2

Attach the Side Rails to the Front and Back Rails then fasten the Upper Back Rails to the Back Legs. Use 3" Screws

Step 2
Step 3

Attach the Front Vertical Guard Rail, use 2" Screws. Then fasten the Front Upper Rails to it and the Front left or right Leg. Use 3" Screws to attach to the Leg.

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the Upper Side Rails on the side opposite where you choose to put the ladder, in my example this would be the left side. Use 3" Screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Lay your Slats approximately 4" apart. Be sure the 2 on the outside edges are flush in both corners. Screw down using 1 1/4" Screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Attach the remaining 2 upper Side Rails to the Back Rails and then either use a Pocket hole System (Kreg Jig) to create pocket holes and fasten to the front leg. If you don't own a Kreg Jig you can also countersink and predrill at an angle from the outside edge into the leg. Use 3" Screws

Step 6
Step 7

Create the Ladder. I give approximate dimensions for the height below, but the important aspect to focus on is the angle you will cut the top and bottom. The top of the ladder rails will be at a 75°angle and the bottom of the rails will be a 15°angle where the boards will rest on the ground.

Attach the rungs at approximately 8" apart (this will depend on the age of your kiddo, the smaller and younger, the closer together these should be, you need to consider how easy it will be for them to climb down) and parallel to the ground. Use 3" Screws to fasten the rungs to the rails and to fasten the rails to the Leg and Front Guard Rail. I suggest cutting away the point you will create at the very top, when you cut the 75°angle, for added safety. This will also give your ladder a bit of a hand grip up top.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Kiddos 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Feb
19
2012
Project Image
Project Details

We covered the twin over twin Kenwood Bunk, and now we give you the Twin over Full... enjoy...

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Safety Gear
  • Tape Measure
  • Drill
  • Saw
  • Kreg Jig
Lumber
  • 4 - 2x6 at 8'
  • 3 - 2x6 at 6'
  • 2 - 2x4 at 8'
  • 2 - 2x3 at 8'
  • 4 - 2x2 at 8'
  • 26 - 1x4 at 8'
  • 2 - 1x3 at 8'
  • 1- 7/8" Round Dowel at 2'
Materials
  • 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 1 1/4" pocket hole screws
  • 2" Wood Screws
  • 1 1/4" Wood Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 - 2x6 at 38 1/4" Lower Legs
  • 4 - 2x6 at 30 1/4" Upper Legs
  • 4 - 2x6 at 76" Bed Rails
  • 2 - 2x6 at 33 1/2" Head/Foot Bottom Board
  • 2 - 2x6 at 48 1/2" Head/Foot Bottom Board 
  • 2 - 2x4 at 33 1/2" Head/Foot Top Board
  • 2 - 2x4 at 48 1/2" Head/Foot Top Board
  • 2 - 2x3 at 44 1/2" Upper and Lower Head/Foot Top
  • 2 - 2x3 at 59 1/2" Upper and Lower Head/Foot Top 
  • 4 - 2x2 at 76" Bed Cleats
  • 4 - 1x4 at 18 1/2" Short/Long Rail Guard Legs
  • 2 - 1x4 at 69" Long Rail Rails
  • 2 - 1x4 at 51" Short Rail Rails
  • 2 - 1x4 at 65 5/8"" Ladder Rails
  • 6 - 1x4 at 16" Ladder Rungs
  • 26 - 1x4 at 13 1/4" Upper Head/Foot Slats
  • 26 - 1x4 at 21 1/4" Lower Head/Foot Slats
  • 11 - 1x4 at 39" Bed Slats
  • 11 - 1x4 at 54" Bed Slats
  • 26 - 1x3 at 6" Rail Bars
  • 4 - 7/8" Round Dowel at 5" - Dowels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Frame out the Head and Foot Boards: You will need 2 of each pictured here. Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to secure.

Step 1
Step 2

Secure the Slats for one side of Each Head/Foot Board: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. This first round of slats will sit flush with the Legs and Rails on one side of the Head/Foot Boards, leaving space on the other side for the remaining slats. You will ultimately end up with 2 rows of slats here that stagger.

Step 2
Step 3

Tack on the Top Boards: Use 2" Wood Screws and Glue to secure the top boards to each Head/Foot Board for both the upper and lower units. Be sure to countersink these screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Fasten the Remaining Slats in Place: These will stagger in comparison to the slats you have already fastened in place and to secure you will use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 4
Step 5

Create the Bed Rails and Then Secure: The Bed Rails will be 2x6's with 2x2 cleats fastened along the bottom edges. Secure in place using 2" wood screws and glue, and be sure both pieces sit flush on the bottom edge. To fasten the Bed Rails to the Head/Foot Boards use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to secure. The bottom edge of the Rails will sit 8" up from the bottom of the legs and will sit flush with the bottom boards on the Head/Foot boards.

Step 5
Step 6

Tack down your Slats: Use 1 1/4" wood screws and glue to fasten the supporting slats to the cleats. This will act as a box spring of sorts for your mattresses, so you won't be needing box springs for this project.

Step 6
Step 7

Add the Long Guard Rail to the Top Bunk Unit (the one with shorter head/foot boards): Build the Guard Rail using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. You will place your pocket holes in the horizontal Rails, fastening them to the Vertical Legs of the unit, and also in the Slats fastening them to the Horizontal Rails. Then fasten the Guard Rail Unit to the Bed by securing it to the Bed Rails and to the Head/Foot Board. Use your 2" wood screws and glue to secure to the Rail and your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the Head/Foot Boards.

Step 7
Step 8

Add the Short Guard Rail to the Top Bunk Unit (the one with shorter head/foot boards): Build the Guard Rail using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. You will place your pocket holes in the horizontal Rails, fastening them to the Vertical Legs of the unit, and also in the Slats fastening them to the Horizontal Rails. Then fasten the Guard Rail Unit to the Bed by securing it to the Bed Rails and to the Foot Board. Use your 2" wood screws and glue to secure to the Rail and your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the Foot Board.

Step 8
Step 9

Stack the Units: To do this you will need to bore a hole in the Top of the Bottom Unit Legs and in the Bottom of the Top Unit Legs that is 1" in diameter and 2 1/2" deep. Set your dowels into the bottom unit hole, then lift (carefully) the Top unit on top of the bottom unit and set onto the dowels that are sticking out. This is how you keep them stacked, but note that you can, at any time, un-stack them and use them as 2 individual beds.

Step 9
Step 10

Build the Ladder: Note that the outer corners of the ladder are angled for safety. You can use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. Secure the Ladder to the Bunk in the same manner by using your Kreg Jig to secure the ladder to both the Top and Bottom Unit Rails. You can also use your 2" wood screws and glue to secure from the inside of the Rails.

Step 10
Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Kiddos 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
07
2011
Project Image
Project Details

I'm so excited to introduce a new collection and another new contributor here at TDC! Cher-Ann is going to be joining us and sharing her amazing building and furniture design talents with us!

Showcase: Built From These Plans

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Safety Gear Tape Measure Drill Saw Kreg Jig

Lumber

4 - 2x6 at 8' 3 - 2x6 at 6' 2 - 2x4 at 6' 2 - 2x3 at 6' 2 - 2x2 at 8' 26 - 1x4 at 8' 2 - 1x3 at 8' 1 - 7/8" Round Dowel at 2'

Materials

2 1/2" pocket hole screws 1 1/4" pocket hole screws 2" Wood Screws 1 1/4" Wood Screws Wood Glue Wood Filler Sanding Supplies Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 - 2x6 at 38 1/4" Lower Legs 4 - 2x6 at 30 1/4" Upper Legs 4 - 2x6 at 76" Bed Rails 4 - 2x6 at 33 1/2" Head/Foot Bottom Board 4 - 2x4 at 33 1/2" Head/Foot Top Board 4 - 2x3 at 44 1/2" Upper and Lower Head/Foot Top 4 - 2x2 at 76" Bed Cleats 4 - 1x4 at 18 1/2" Short/Long Rail Guard Legs 2 - 1x4 at 69" Long Rail Rails 2 - 1x4 at 51" Short Rail Rails 2 - 1x4 at 45 1/4" Ladder Rails 4 - 1x4 at 16 1/2" Ladder Rungs 26 - 1x4 at 13 1/4" Upper Head/Foot Slats 26 - 1x4 at 21 1/4" Lower Head/Foot Slats 22 - 1x4 at 39" Bed Slats 26 - 1x3 at 6" Rail Bars 4 - 7/8" Round Dowel at 5" - Dowels

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Frame out the Head and Foot Boards: You will need 2 of each pictured here. Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to secure.

Step 1
Step 2

Secure the Slats for one side of Each Head/Foot Board: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. This first round of slats will sit flush with the Legs and Rails on one side of the Head/Foot Boards, leaving space on the other side for the remaining slats. You will ultimately end up with 2 rows of slats here that stagger.

Step 2
Step 3

Tack on the Top Boards: Use 2" Wood Screws and Glue to secure the top boards to each Head/Foot Board for both the upper and lower units. Be sure to countersink these screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Fasten the Remaining Slats in Place: These will stagger in comparison to the slats you have already fastened in place and to secure you will use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 4
Step 5

Create the Bed Rails and Then Secure: The Bed Rails will be 2x6's with 2x2 cleats fastened along the bottom edges. Secure in place using 2" wood screws and glue, and be sure both pieces sit flush on the bottom edge. To fasten the Bed Rails to the Head/Foot Boards use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to secure. The bottom edge of the Rails will sit 8" up from the bottom of the legs and will sit flush with the bottom boards on the Head/Foot boards.

Step 5
Step 6

Tack down your Slats: Use 1 1/4" wood screws and glue to fasten the supporting slats to the cleats. This will act as a box spring of sorts for your mattresses, so you won't be needing box springs for this project.

Step 6
Step 7

Add the Long Guard Rail to the Top Bunk Unit (the one with shorter head/foot boards): Build the Guard Rail using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. You will place your pocket holes in the horizontal Rails, fastening them to the Vertical Legs of the unit, and also in the Slats fastening them to the Horizontal Rails. Then fasten the Guard Rail Unit to the Bed by securing it to the Bed Rails and to the Head/Foot Board. Use your 2" wood screws and glue to secure to the Rail and your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the Head/Foot Boards

Step 7
Step 8

Add the Short Guard Rail to the Top Bunk Unit (the one with shorter head/foot boards): Build the Guard Rail using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. You will place your pocket holes in the horizontal Rails, fastening them to the Vertical Legs of the unit, and also in the Slats fastening them to the Horizontal Rails. Then fasten the Guard Rail Unit to the Bed by securing it to the Bed Rails and to the Foot Board. Use your 2" wood screws and glue to secure to the Rail and your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the Foot Board.

Step 8
Step 9

Stack the Units: To do this you will need to bore a hole in the Top of the Bottom Unit Legs and in the Bottom of the Top Unit Legs that is 1" in diameter and 2 1/2" deep. Set your dowels into the bottom unit hole, then lift (carefully) the Top unit on top of the bottom unit and set onto the dowels that are sticking out. This is how you keep them stacked, but note that you can, at any time, un-stack them and use them as 2 individual beds.

Step 9
Step 10

Build the Ladder: Note that the outer corners of the ladder are angled for safety. You can use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. Secure the Ladder to the Bunk in the same manner by using your Kreg Jig to secure the ladder to both the Top and Bottom Unit Rails. You can also use your 2" wood screws and glue to secure from the inside of the Rails.

Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Kiddos 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
10
2011
Project Image
Project Details

Now, I am going to assume most of you have kiddos...or will have kiddos...or your kiddos have grown and have their own kiddos..either way I know this will excite you because the project I will share with you retails for more than $1300 when you add up all of the extras. Can I tell you how much I spent on this from start to finish? $118 TOTAL including an entire gallon of Zinc by Martha Stewart for Home Depot (we all know that isn't the cheapest...) That's right, barely over $100 with screws, bolts, wood, paint, EVERYTHING! Even sandpaper..

The Deets
Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander - if you are using Pine and staining you will need a Variable Random Orbital Sander, otherwise any automatic sander will work even the cheaper ones!
  • Saw
  • Drill
Lumber
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 10' Fence Posts - untreated
  • 3 - 2x6 @ 8'
  • 5 - 2x4 @ 10'
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 6'
  • 5 - 1x4 @ 10'
Materials
  • Qty 8 - 5/16" Carriage Bolts at 7" length Qty 8 -
  • Washers Qty 8 
  • Nuts Qty 8 - Nuts with rounded covers
  • 3" Screws
  • 2" Screws
  • 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
  • 1 1/4" Screws
  • Wood Filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 @ 54" (Legs)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 76" (Front and Back Rails)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 76" (Cleats)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 43" (Side Rails)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 76" (Upper Back Rails)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 43" (Upper Side Rails)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 23 1/2" (Front Guard Rail)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 57" (Front Upper Rails)
  • 11 - 1x4 @ 40" (Slats)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 60" (Ladder Rails)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 14" (Ladder Rungs)
Instructions

**I recommend finishing your boards and posts prior to assembling and simply touching up later. This will make for easier painting and will keep you from having to paint this wherever this piece will actually live (bedroom) since you will have to assemble it in the area it will be placed (at 45 or more inches wide this will not fit through a doorway after it's assembled). ** I also recommend using Wood Filler to fill in any knots or uneven areas on your boards prior to painting if you are NOT going for a rustic look. Please also consider giving each post and board slightly rounded edges as you sand, for added comfort for your kiddos. Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the Legs to size and attach the Cleat to the Front and Back Rails using 2" Screws. To attach the Rails to the Legs you will arrange the 4 pieces as shown in the diagram below, making sure to leave 1 1/2" on either side of the Rails to allow for the Side Rails later, and clamp together making sure everything is completely square before you proceed. Once square and aligned as needed, you will use a 7/16" Drill Bit and drill through all 3 pieces on each side, creating 2 holes on either side for the bolts. Fasten with your Carriage Bolts and tighten.

Step 1
Step 2

Attach the Side Rails to the Front and Back Rails then fasten the Upper Back Rails to the Back Legs. Use 3" Screws

Step 2
Step 3

Attach the Front Vertical Guard Rail, use 2" Screws. Then fasten the Front Upper Rails to it and the Front left or right Leg. Use 3" Screws to attach to the Leg.

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the Upper Side Rails on the side opposite where you choose to put the ladder, in my example this would be the left side. Use 3" Screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Lay your Slats approximately 4" apart. Be sure the 2 on the outside edges are flush in both corners. Screw down using 1 1/4" Screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Attach the remaining 2 upper Side Rails to the Back Rails and then either use a Pocket hole System (Kreg Jig) to create pocket holes and fasten to the front leg. If you don't own a Kreg Jig you can also countersink and predrill at an angle from the outside edge into the leg. Use 3" Screws

Step 6
Step 7

Create the Ladder. I give approximate dimensions for the height below, but the important aspect to focus on is the angle you will cut the top and bottom. The top of the ladder rails will be at a 75°angle and the bottom of the rails will be a 15°angle where the boards will rest on the ground. Attach the rungs at approximately 8" apart (this will depend on the age of your kiddo, the smaller and younger, the closer together these should be, you need to consider how easy it will be for them to climb down) and parallel to the ground. Use 3" Screws to fasten the rungs to the rails and to fasten the rails to the Leg and Front Guard Rail. I suggest cutting away the point you will create at the very top, when you cut the 75°angle, for added safety. This will also give your ladder a bit of a hand grip up top.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

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Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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