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Dec
10
2013
Project Image

This Chesapeake Bench was my first large project. The photo is not as good as I would like but I hope to add better ones at a later time.

It took about 2 weeks of and on to do it and is very sturdy. The brass hardware is there for 2 reasons 1) it takes the viewers eyes away from some of the errors and it compensates for were I misplaced a couple Pocket Screws which caused a portion of wood to come apart. As I was near the completion and weather was a factor to get it done (I don't have room in my house to paint large projects)

Estimated Cost 

$50 Canadian in wood not including screws and glue.

Length of Time 

2 weeks

Modifications 

Brass Angle brackets x 8 only 1 need but i used 8 for symmetry.

Lumber Used 

1 x 3 Framing Lumber

Finishing Technique 

Behr House & Fence Wood Stain (Oil-Latex Formula Self Priming)

Nov
14
2013
Finished Table and Benches

I was inspired by the RH Provence 4x4 Beam plans, but wanted to try to make it more aesthetically accurate by using all beams for the base.  I made two tables (10' and 8') and two 8' benches.  I'm thinking about making chairs for the 10'.  Also, I've never used a Kreg jig, so I put it together with GRK structural screws and normal screws.

This is the unfinished 10' table showing the all beam base.

 

I assembled the top directly on the base and screwed in from below.

All 4x4 Base Detail
Top Clamping Detail
Estimated Cost 

Each table cost about $275 each ($225 for lumber / $50 for the structural screws).  Each bench cost around $175.

Lumber Used 

Redwood.

Finishing Technique 

Penofin Marine Oil.

Aug
19
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Provence Beam Benches! Several of you have built benches to match your Provence Beam Dining Tables (plans for those are listed just below), like you see in this Builders Showcase: Provence Beam Dining and Benches, but we never officially posted the plans. Now the rest of you who are interested in having the matching set can do just that without having to hurt your brain with the math involved!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber

For the longer bench:

  • 5 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 10’
  • 3 – 2x6 at 10’

For the shorter bench:

  • 4 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x6 at 6’
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

For either bench:

  • 4 – 2x4 at 15-7/16” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 11-3/4” – Side Frame Connector
  • 2 – 2x4 at 12-1/2” – Side Stretchers

For the longer bench:

  • 3 – 2x4 at 93” – Seat Supports
  • 1 – 2x4 at 97” – Stretcher
  • 2 – 2x4 at 22-5/8” – Trusses
  • 3 – 2x6 at 120” – Seat

For the shorter bench:

  • 3 – 2x4 at 40” – Seat Supports
  • 1 – 2x4 at 37” – Stretcher
  • 2 – 2x4 at 12-3/16” – Trusses
  • 3 – 2x6 at 60” - Seat
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut a 9 degree bevel in each end (opposite of each other). Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end as indicated in the drawings.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the connector. Secure the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The frames will resemble an “A” shape.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and cut a 9 degree angle in each end. Drill pocket holes in each end as shown. Position as shown (3” up from the floor) then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretchers will be flush with the outside edge of the legs.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the connectors as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The boards will be spaced at approximately ¾”.

Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the piece for the stretcher and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the stretcher so it is centered on the side stretchers, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the trusses and cut the angles in each end as shown. Also, drill pocket holes in each end. Position the trusses so that they are centered on the center seat support as well as centered on the stretcher. Secure to the support with the edge flush with the side of the connector piece. (see the drawing)

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the seat. Lay the boards out on a flat surface and position the seat frame on top of it. There will be a 10” overhang at each side. Secure the frame to the seat boards using countersunk 2-1/2” screws from the underside into the seat boards. Make sure to use plenty of screws to catch all three pieces!

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Aug
05
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Emmerson Bench. We covered the plans for the table, and have covered quite a few plans from this collection already, so go forth and build away! The bench can easily be extended by simply increasing the length of the top boards.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 10 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 6’
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 10 – 2x4 at 58” – Top
  • 20 – 2x4 at 18” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x4 at 15” –Connectors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

2x4 boards are rounded at the edges. If this look is not desired, the boards can be squared off using a table saw but it will change the height of the table slightly. To compensate for this, add to the height of the legs accordingly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the top. Cut the miters in one end of each leg and both ends of each top board at 45 degrees. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill a pocket hole in one mitered end of the legs, as well as both mitered ends of the top. Secure the legs and the top boards to each other using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Stack each assembly using a bead of glue in between them. The last assembly can be flipped over so the pocket holes face inside and won’t have to be filled. Clamp the entire assembly together.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top connectors and position them as shown securing them using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws.

Step 2
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Living 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
17
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Francine Dining Bench, and of course the materials listed are to construct one bench, double this baby up to build 2. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x6 at 6’
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 16-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 11-1/2” – Leg Frame
  • 2 – 2x2 at 11-1/2” – Leg Frame
  • 3 – 2x6 at 68” – Seat
  • 1 – 2x2 at 63”
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the leg frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 2x4 pieces as well as the 2x2 pieces. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the seat and drill pocket holes along one edge of two of the pieces (the last piece will not have pocket holes). Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the leg frames to the seats using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the piece for the stretcher and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the center of the lower stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

May
31
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crate and Barrel Inspired Village Black Armless Bench. Simple lines, beautiful features, this bench has it all... Xx.. Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18” – Lower Back Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18-1/2” – Upper Back Legs
  • 1 – 1x2 at 35-3/4” – Back Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x3 at 35-3/4” – Lower Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 39-3/4” – Upper Back
  • 11 – 1x2 at 14” – Back Slats
  • 2 – 2x2 at 17-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 16-1/2” – Upper Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17-1/2” – Seat Supports
  • 2 – 1x2 at approximately 17-3/16” – Lower Side Stretchers (Cut these pieces after the chair is assembled)
  • 1 – 1x2 at 36-3/4” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 38-3/4” - Seat
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower back legs. Cut the tapers using a jigsaw or tapering jig on a table saw. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of the lower back legs. Note there will be a right and a left leg. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back edge of the upper legs. Assemble the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and the upper back. Cut the angle in each end of the upper back noting that it is not a 45 degree angle. Drill pocket holes in each end of the back stretcher as well as the lower back stretcher. Position the 1x2 back stretcher as shown and secure to the upper back legs using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. The front face of the stretcher will be flush with the front face of the upper legs. Position the lower stretcher ¼” back from the outside edge of the legs and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the slats and cut a 5 degree bevel in the top edge of each slat slanting toward the back. Drill pocket holes in each then secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretcher. Cut the tapers in the front legs in the same manner as the back legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher then secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the upper side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the front and back legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the stretchers ¼” back from the outside edge of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers. The length and angle of the side stretchers will depend on the angle of the legs as well as the measurement between them. Clamp a 1x2 piece to the legs at the position of the lower stretcher and draw a line along the angles. Cut with the saw of your choice, then drill pocket holes in each end. Position the stretchers so they are located ¼” back from the outside face then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center lower stretcher and drill pocket holes at each end. Position it in the center of the lower side stretchers then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the seat and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Apply the edge banding, if desired. Position the seat on the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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