Benches

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crate and Barrel Inspired Village Black Armless Bench. Simple lines, beautiful features, this bench has it all... Xx.. Rayan

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18” – Lower Back Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18-1/2” – Upper Back Legs
  • 1 – 1x2 at 35-3/4” – Back Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x3 at 35-3/4” – Lower Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 39-3/4” – Upper Back
  • 11 – 1x2 at 14” – Back Slats
  • 2 – 2x2 at 17-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 16-1/2” – Upper Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17-1/2” – Seat Supports
  • 2 – 1x2 at approximately 17-3/16” – Lower Side Stretchers (Cut these pieces after the chair is assembled)
  • 1 – 1x2 at 36-3/4” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 38-3/4” - Seat
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower back legs. Cut the tapers using a jigsaw or tapering jig on a table saw. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of the lower back legs. Note there will be a right and a left leg. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back edge of the upper legs. Assemble the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and the upper back. Cut the angle in each end of the upper back noting that it is not a 45 degree angle. Drill pocket holes in each end of the back stretcher as well as the lower back stretcher. Position the 1x2 back stretcher as shown and secure to the upper back legs using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. The front face of the stretcher will be flush with the front face of the upper legs. Position the lower stretcher ¼” back from the outside edge of the legs and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the slats and cut a 5 degree bevel in the top edge of each slat slanting toward the back. Drill pocket holes in each then secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretcher. Cut the tapers in the front legs in the same manner as the back legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher then secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the upper side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the front and back legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the stretchers ¼” back from the outside edge of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers. The length and angle of the side stretchers will depend on the angle of the legs as well as the measurement between them. Clamp a 1x2 piece to the legs at the position of the lower stretcher and draw a line along the angles. Cut with the saw of your choice, then drill pocket holes in each end. Position the stretchers so they are located ¼” back from the outside face then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center lower stretcher and drill pocket holes at each end. Position it in the center of the lower side stretchers then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the seat and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Apply the edge banding, if desired. Position the seat on the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

We covered the plans to build the table here and now the benches! Yahoo... Materials listed are to build two benches, even better, right? Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x3 at 4’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 6 – 2x6 at 8’
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 8 – 2x6 at 16-7/16” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x4 at 16-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 4 – 2x3 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 4 – 2x4 at 16-1/2” – Seat Ends
  • 6 – 2x6 at 68” – Seat Planks
  • 4 – 2x2 at 33-7/8” – Truss
  • 2 – 1x2 at 36-3/4” – Stretcher
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles in the legs as shown using a jigsaw, miter saw, or circular saw. Note that the angles are NOT cut at 45 degrees. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each leg. There will be two left legs and two right legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 stretcher. Assemble the sides as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The 2x3 stretchers will be perpendicular to the ground and will not follow the angle of the legs while the 2x4 stretcher will rest on top of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Position the seat as shown and secure using countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the upper side stretcher into the bottom of the seat.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the trusses. Cut the angles and the notches as shown. Position in the center of the lower stretcher and secure using toenailed 2-1/2” screws through the truss into the stretcher, as well as through the truss into the top on the underside.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the stretcher. Center on the trusses and secure using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Degraw Bench! I love the simplicity this piece has without lacking style! It would be a fabulous addition to homes with any number of styles!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 9 – 1x2 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x2 at 4 – 2x2 at 18” – Legs
  • 8 – 1x2 at 12” – Side Frames & Seat Frame
  • 4 – 1x2 at 56-1/2” – Upper Stretchers & Seat Frame
  • 3 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” – Seat Supports
  • 1 – 2x2 at 58” – Lower Stretcher
  • 16 – 1x2 at 17-3/4” – Seat Slats
  • 8 – 1x2 at 18” – Seat Slats (Center)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle as shown using a jigsaw, bandsaw, or tapering jig on the table saw. The angled side of the legs will face toward the longer sides.

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the pieces on the legs as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the frame pieces will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Position the pieces on the legs as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the frame pieces will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

Cut the piece for the lower stretcher. Secure to the lower side frame pieces using glue and countersunk 2” screws from the outside of the lower frame pieces.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat. Drill pocket holes as shown. Also, drill pocket holes along one edge of the outer slat pieces as noted to attach the longer trim pieces. (These pocket holes are not shown.)

Position the seat on the frame and secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the seat pieces into the stretchers and supports.

Step 3
Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Offset Bench

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 8’
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • One set of 14” drawer slides
  • Drawer pull
  • 4” foam
  • Upholstery batting
  • Upholstery fabric
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 13-1/4” – Left Legs (Shorter)
  • 3 – 1x2 at 12”- Left & Right Frames, Right Slide Support
  • 1 – 1x3 at 12” – Left Frame
  • 2 – 2x2 at 17-1/4” – Right Legs (Longer)
  • 1 – 1x8 (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) at 12” – Right Frame
  • 1 – 1x8 (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) at 46-3/4” – Upper Back Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 46-3/4” – Lower Back Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x3 at 46-3/4” – Front Apron
  • 1 – 1x8 (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) at 14-1/4” – Bench Divider
  • 1 – 1x2 at 13-1/4” – Seat Support
  • 2 – 1x3 at 13-1/2” – Seat Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 17-1/4” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 32-1/2” – Seat
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 13-1/4” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 13-1/4” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 14” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 14-3/4” – Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the left (shorter) side. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the right (taller) side. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the slide support. Attach to the right side frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers. Cut the notch in the upper stretcher as shown using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces and position on the legs as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the front stretcher. Cut the notch in the stretcher as shown using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher and position on the legs as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the divider. Cut the notch using a jigsaw or bandsaw, then drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the front and back aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the seat supports. The 1x2 support will be positioned on the divider as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holescrews.

Position the 1x3 supports and secure in the same manner.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the divider, back, and right side frame.

Cut the piece for the seat. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the supports, back, front, and left side frame.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer box by 3/8" on each side. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Create the box cushion for the seat. For an easy tutorial, click here.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Bench. We covered the plans for the locker unit here, and now the bench! You can see down below how this lovely modular family actually looks when it's all completed!!! It's fab, right?

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Family Bench

Pretty cool, eh?

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 - 1x2 at 3’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 1 full sheet of ¾”plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • One pair of 16” drawer slides
  • Cabinet knob or pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 35-1/2” – Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16-3/4” – Seat Supports
  • 1 – 1x6 at 45-1/2”- Back Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-3/4” x 45-1/2” – Seat
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 45-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – 1x6 at 11-3/4” – Front Aprons
  • 2 – 1x6 at 16-3/4” – Drawer Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 1x6 (ripped to 5-3/8” wide) at 16” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1x6 (ripped to 5-3/8” wide) at 21” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1x6 (ripped to 5-3/8” wide) at 21-3/4” – Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will need to be applied before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Maintain the dimensions as shown when cutting the curves. The curve at the back is optional and can be made by drawing a line 1” in from the back edge, marking the center of that line, then drawing lines from the center to the back corners. Cut out with a jigsaw.

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the seat. The front of the seat will overlap by ½”. Secure to the supports and back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or countersunk screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge as show. Position the back so it rests on the seat and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the front aprons and drawer supports. Drill pocket holes in one end of each apron pieces, as well as each end of the drawer supports. Assemble as shown, then attach to the sides and back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer box by 3/8" on each side.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. 

Attach the cabinet pull or handle if desired.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

I'm really excited for this modular collection of pieces! I pretty much love anything that can be mixed and matched for a custom look and these Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Olivia Modular Components for the Bench are the beginnings of exactly that! yahoo... Xx Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x2 at6’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood, if desired
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 22-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/2” x 51-1/4” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 51-1/4” – Top & Bottom
  • 3 – 1x2 at 12-1/2” – Bottom Supports
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 20-1/4” – Dividers
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 12-1/2” – Shelves
  • 3 – 1x2 at 51-1/4” – Front Aprons
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the back. Attach the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position the bottom ¾” up from the bottom edge of the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Attach as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The dividers will be ¾” shorter than the sides. 

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as the back edge. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Also use pocket hole screws through the holes in the top of the dividers into the underside of the top.

Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the front aprons. Attach to the front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws. 

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Land of Nod District Storage Bench with Bin. These benches are stackable and work in conjunction with these storage benches here, so mix and match until your heart's content! 

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 2’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 2’
  • Quarter sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for edges of plywood
  • 2 – Angle brackets (to secure 2 units together if stacked)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x2 at 10-1/2” – Bottom Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 38-1/4” – Bottom Frame
  • 4 – 1x3 at 4” – Feet
  • 4 – 1x4 at 4” – Feet
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 39-3/4” – Top & Bottom
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 13-1/2” – Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 24” – Bin Front
  • 2 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 24” – Stretchers
  • 1 – 1/4” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 13-1/2” x 39-3/4” – Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Apply edge banding to exposed plywood edges before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

If building the units to stack, do not build the feet. The only piece that will need feet is the base unit.

Cut the pieces for the feet. Cut the angle as shown. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. There will be two left feet and two right feet. Attach to the frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the bottom. Attach to the frame and feet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom into the frame.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends of the dividers. Attach to the bottom at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the bin front. Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers and stretchers.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the back. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8
Step 9

If stacking two units, attach the angle brackets to the frame of the bench that will go on the top, then secure to the top of the lower bench.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

These stackable storage benches are sublime, not to mention easy to build! Build 1, build 2, or interchange them with other pieces in the District Storage Collection like the storage bin bench!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 2’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 2’
  • Quarter sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for edges of plywood
  • 2 – Angle brackets (to secure 2 units together if stacked)
  • 4 – Hinges
  • 2 – Drawer pulls or knobs
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x2 at 10-1/2” – Bottom Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 38-1/4” – Bottom Frame
  • 4 – 1x3 at 4” – Feet
  • 4 – 1x4 at 4” – Feet
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 39-3/4” – Top & Bottom
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 13-1/2” – Dividers
  • 4 – 1x2 at 12” – Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12-3/4” – Stretchers
  • 1 – 1/4” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 13-1/2” x 39-3/4” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 11-3/4” - Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Apply edge banding to exposed plywood edges before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

If building the units to stack, do not build the feet for each unit. The only piece that will need feet is the base unit.

Cut the pieces for the feet. Cut the angle as shown. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. There will be two left feet and two right feet. Attach to the frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the bottom. Attach to the frame and feet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom into the frame.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends of the dividers. Attach to the bottom at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers and stretchers.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the back. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors. Pre-drill the holes for the handles or knobs. Shim the doors in place and attach the hinges.

Step 8
Step 9

 

If stacking two units, attach the angle brackets to the frame of the bench that will go on the top, then secure to the top of the lower bench.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Nothing says outdoor fun like an adorable children's sized table and benches! The fact that they coordinate with the other pieces in our Chesapeake Collection is just icing on the cake! The Materials are for one table and two benches and this easy DIY furniture project is sure to make your next outdoor event that much more fabulous!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 14 – 1x3 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 21-1/4” – Table Legs
  • 6 – 1x3 at 23-1/2” – Table Side Aprons & Supports
  • 2 – 1x3 at 40” – Table Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 27-1/2” – Table Top Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 at 39” – Table Top Frame
  • 3 – 1x3 at 22-1/2” – Table Top Dividers
  • 32 – 1x3 at 7-7/8” – Table Top Slats
  • 8 – 2x2 at 13-1/4” – Bench Legs
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8” – Bench Sides
  • 6 – 1x3 at 34” – Bench Aprons & Supports
  • 4 – 1x3 at 12” – Seat Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 33” – Seat Frames
  • 22 – 1x3 at 7” – Seat Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Starting with the table, cut the pieces for the legs and the side aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons. Attach to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.  The back face of the aprons should be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the longer aprons and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the table top. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble the frame pieces first using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the slats last at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the top to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the aprons, legs, and supports.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

 To build the benches:

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons. Attach to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.  The back face of the aprons should be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the longer aprons and the support, and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the aprons to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Attach the support to the side aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the seat top. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble the frame pieces first using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the slats last at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the seat to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the seat into the aprons, legs, and support.

Step 7
Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Another reader project request to set the blogging DIY world on fire! Frankly I agree... this has been one of my favorite accent pieces of furniture for longer than I can recall! This beauty can be upholstered from stem to stern or simply for the seat portion. For a tutorial on uholstering this piece, click here and visit Designs by Studio C for the instructions!

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired X Bench
Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • Eighth sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 3 – 1x2 at 8’
  • Scrap of 2x2 at least 17-1/4” long
Materials
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 1x2 at 27-3/16” – Base Leg
  • 4 – 1x2 at 12-13/16” – Upper Leg
  • 4 – 1x2 at 12-7/8” – Lower Leg
  • 1 – 2x2 at 17-1/4” - Stretcher
  • 2 - 1x2 ay 17-1/4" - Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” x 20-1/2” - Seat
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the base legs. Cut the angle as shown.

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower legs. Cut the angles as shown. Assemble with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws leaving a 1-1/2” gap in the center to make the “X”. Mark the 12-13/16” end as the top. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes to attach the seat.

Layer the pieces together as shown and secure with glue and a couple of countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Locate the screws so that the pocket hole screws for the stretcher won’t interfere.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the 2x2 stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end and secure to the center of each leg with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the 1x2 stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.  Drill countersunk holes also to attach the leg assembly to the seat.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the legs with 1-1/4” screws through the countersunk holes in the upper stretchers.

Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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