Browse all Free Woodworking Plans for Bistro Tables

May
07
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Project Details

By special reader request, this amazing ultimate rustic bar is the perfect DIY furniture plan for the entertainer! Whether you prefer your parties indoors or outdoors, this project is the complete party package (alcohol not included of course). If you like this plan, you might also like our plans for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Joss and Main Inspired Foxton Bar and Game Table or the Jasper Serving and Bar Cart, and perhaps the Naldi Stemware Rack to finish off the party pack of projects! To see other Free DIY Furniture Plans like these, visit our Plan Index page and choose Entertaining from the menu! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 10 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  •  4 – 1x4 at 41-1/4” – Side Legs
  • 6 – 1x4 at 16” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1/2” plywood at 13-3/8” x 16” – Side Panels
  • 3 – 1x4 at 35-1/2” – Front Frame
  • 2 – 1x4 at 41-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 13-3/8” x 35-1/2” – Front Panels
  • 2 – 1x4 at 37” – Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x4 at 37-3/4” – Back Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/4” x 42-1/2” – Bottom Shelf
  • 1 – 1x3 at 26-3/4” – Cabinet Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/4” x 29-3/8” - Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 22-1/4” - Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/4” x 22-1/4” – Shelf
  • 1 – 1x2 at 17-3/4” – Drawer Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 22-1/4” – Drawer Slide Spacer
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/4” x 42-1/2” - Countertop
  • 2 – 1x4 at 22-1/4” – Inner Top Spacers
  • 1 – 1x4 at 37” – Inner Top Spacer
  • 2 – 1x4 at 6-3/4” – Top Frame Back
  • 3 – 1x4 at 3-1/4” – Top Frame Spacers
  • 2 – 1x4 at 26-1/4” – Top Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1x4 at 50-1/2” - Top Frame Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 27-3/4” x 50-1/2” - Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/4” x 20-1/2” Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 1x4 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1x3 at 11-1/2” – Door Rails
  • 2 – 1x3 at 26-1/2” – Door Stiles
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 11-1/2” x 21-1/2” – Door Panel
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the legs and the frame pieces using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Bar Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the legs, front frame, and panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as one long edge of each leg. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the legs and the frame pieces using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Secure the entire front assembly to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Bar Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Bar Front 2 for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the back legs and frame pieces.  Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Secure the back frame to the side legs using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Back Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 4

 Cut the piece for the bottom shelf and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the lower frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the under side.

Cut the piece for the cabinet divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the bottom, front frame, and cabinet divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the divider (without pocket holes) will be flush with the back edge of the cabinet divider.

Bottom Shelf for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Cabinet Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Position in each side of the cabinet and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Shelves for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 6

 Cut the piece for the drawer divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back leg and cabinet divider as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the drawer slide spacer and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back leg and the front leg as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the spacer will line up with the top of the drawer divider.

Drawer Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Drawer Spacer for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 7

Cut the piece for the countertop and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the legs and panels into the countertop. The top face of the countertop will be flush with the top face of the back frame. Add a few 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the divider into the underside of the countertop.

Cut the pieces for the inner top frame and drill pocket holes at one end as well as one long edge. Secure to the front panel and countertop as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the inner frame sides and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Secure to the sides and countertop using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Counter Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Inner Bar Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Inner Bar Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the top frame back. Secure to the side frame and inner top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the top frame spacers and drill pocket holes in one end. Secure to the front frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the top frame sides and drill pocket holes in one end. Secure to the back frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top frame front. Position as shown then secure to the sides and spacers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Bar Frame Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Bar Frame Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Bar Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Bar Frame Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 9

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Top 2 for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Cut the pieces for the drawer front. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Drawer Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the door. Drill pocket holes in each end of the rails then assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the panel in the frame using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame.

Install the hinges on the door, then install the door in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pull.

Door for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Installing the Door for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Apr
19
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an RH Inspired 1900s Boulangerie Bar Table (62”). This is such a fabulous collection of pieces and I'm so glad to continue with more pieces and to know you guys like it as much as I do, since it's a very popular build, yahoo! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 4x4 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 6’
  • 5 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x6 at 6’
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 4x4 at 34-1/2”- Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 18-3/4” - Aprons
  • 2 – 2x4 at 48” - Aprons
  • 3 – 2x4 at 23” – Frame Supports
  • 2 – 2x6 (ripped to 5” wide) at 27-1/2” – Table Top Ends
  • 5 – 2x6 at 52” – Table Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the legs with the taper as indicated. 

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the aprons as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end as well as in one long end of each piece to attach the top. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The leg tapers should face to the inside following the longer aprons.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the frame supports as indicated. Drill pocket holes at each end as well as in one long end of each piece to attach the top. Attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the top. Drill pocket holes as shown in the longer boards. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach to the top with each shorter end overlapping by 3-1/2” and the longer ends overlapping by ¾”. Secure with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the aprons and supports into the underside of the top.

Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
23
2012
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an RH Inspired 1900s Boulangerie Bar Table (84”)

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 4x4 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 6’
  • 5 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x6 at 6’
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 4x4 at 34-1/2”- Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 18-3/4” - Aprons
  • 2 – 2x4 at 70” - Aprons
  • 3 – 2x4 at 23” – Frame Supports
  • 2 – 2x6 (ripped to 5” wide) at 27-1/2” – Table Top Ends
  • 5 – 2x6 at 74” – Table Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the legs with the taper as indicated. 

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the aprons as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end as well as in one long end of each piece to attach the top. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The leg tapers should face to the inside following the longer aprons.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the frame supports as indicated. Drill pocket holes at each end as well as in one long end of each piece to attach the top. Attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the top. Drill pocket holes as shown in the longer boards. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach to the top with each shorter end overlapping by 3-1/2” and the longer ends overlapping by ¾”. Secure with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the aprons and supports into the underside of the top.

Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jun
15
2012
Project Image
Project Details

I'm excited to try and finish out the Chesapeake Collection of outdoor furniture! It's been hands down one of our most popular, and with good reason... it's fabulous! A little for projects that might make Father's Day weekend and tad more enjoyable... just sayin'!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 4’
  • One half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • Edge banding
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 40-3/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x3 at 22” – Aprons
  • 4 – 2x2 at 22” – Lower Braces
  • 7 – 1x3 at 18-3/8” – Top Slats
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 38” in diameter - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs.

Cut the pieces for the aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons. Also drill one pocket hole in the center of each apron to attach the top. Attach to the legs with the outside face flush with the outside faces of the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the lower braces. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the legs as shown (12” from the bottom of the leg) using glue and 2” pocket hole screws with the pocket holes facing down.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the table top. Draw a 38” diameter circle on the plywood and cut out with a jigsaw. Apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood.

Mark the center and draw an 18-3/8” x 18-3/8” square in the center of the table. Cut out with a jigsaw.

Cut the slats for the top. The first and last slats will be positioned approximately 1/16” from the edge of the square opening. The rest of the slats will be spaced 1/8” apart.

Step 3
Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
09
2011
Project Image
Project Details

I think this table would be perfect outside with an umbrella. Don't you? This table is Bistro height or Bar Height and I have provided plans for the accompanying bar stools as well.

Inspired by the Big Sur line of furniture at Crate & Barrel, this table is of my own design and not in any way affiliated with the specialty retailer.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Saw
  • Drill
  • 2"Hole Saw Drill bit OR a Spade Drill Bit (I recommend asking a sales associate which they carry and recommend, my experience with Spade Bits is that they give you a rough hole and you need to sand it well after drilling, a hole saw bit gives you a cleaner hole but they don't always bore deeply)

 

Lumber
  • 2 - 4x4 at 8'
  • 2 - 1x3 at 8'
  • 1 - 1x3 at 10'
  • 1 - 2x12 at 10'
Materials
  • 2" Finish Nails - optional for attaching table top and can use screws if needed.
  • 2" Screws - Choose Galvanized or Stainless Screws if for Outdoor Use.

**2"Hole Saw Drill bit OR a Spade Drill Bit (I recommend asking a sales associate which they carry and recommend, my experience with Spade Bits is that they give you a rough hole and you need to sand it well after drilling, a hole saw bit gives you a cleaner hole but they don't always bore deeply)

  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 at 42" (Legs)
  • 4 - 1x3 at 1 3/4" (Spacers)
  • 6 - 1x3 at 30 1/4" (Frame and Slats, you can eliminate one of these if this item is for indoor you for you)
  • 2 - 1x3 at 26 3/4" (Frame)
  • 2 - 1x3 at 26 3/4" (Apron)
  • 3 - 2x12 at 33 1/4" (Table Tops)

 

Instructions

**If you are making this for outdoor use, purchase wood that holds up well to weather and moisture. This might include Cedar, Redwood, and Teak , but I would ask your local lumber supply for appropriate wood species for your area and climate. You should Finish and Seal all boards prior to assembling if this is for outdoor use.
This will keep it water tight and protected. Also try and use Galvanized or Stainless Screws whenever possible for outdoor use.

**If your climate zone dictates that you have space between boards on the top to allow for water drainage (or you simply like the look of that), you will place 1/4" Gap between the Table Top Boards and increase the Stool Support and Side Apron lengths by 1/2" to allow for water drainage and accommodate the gaps.

**Always Pre-Drill and Counter Sink for the most professional appearance. Check for Square after EACH step. It will really matter in this project.

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Attach the Spacers to the Legs using 2" Screws and Wood Glue.
 

Step 1
Step 2

Build the Frame: Use 2" Screws and Wood Glue. Leave a 2" space between the 2 center slats to allow for the umbrella if this is for outdoor use, the other slats can just be placed in the center of the remaining space at approximately 5". If this is for indoor use you can eliminate one slat and place the remaining center slat directly in the middle of the frame.
 

Step 2
Step 3

Attach the Frame to the Legs: Using 2" Screws and Wood Glue, align the top of the frame with the top of the Spacers (1 1/2" from the top of the legs). Leave a 1" space on either side of the frame on the legs without Spacers.
 

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the Aprons to the Spacers: Use 2" Screws and Wood Glue.
 

Step 4
Step 5

Carve out a 3 1/2" Square in the 4 corners as seem in the image below. Only 2 of your boards will have cutouts and only on 2 of their corners.
 

Step 5
Step 6

Attach the Table Tops to the Frame: Use 2" Screws or Finish Nails and Wood Glue.
 

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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