Browse all Free Woodworking Plans for End Tables

Mar
03
2014
Project Details

I hope you all had an amazing weekend! I had so many plans to do so many things, and while I didn't do a single one of them, I did manage to get in some good family time and fun so I suppose that makes it all worthwhile! You know worthwhile is at the top of my list going forward so I fairly pleased with myself. Though next weekend I plan to build... I hope.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 - 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 25-11/16” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 14-7/16” – Leg Frames
  • 2 – 1x3 at 12-13/16” – Leg Frames
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/2” x 46-3/4” - Top
  • 2 – 1x3 at 45-1/4” - Aprons
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the leg frames. Cut 7° angles in each piece as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top end of the leg pieces. Attach the legs to the top piece using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x3 pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws with the inside face of the 1x3 flush with the inside face of the legs.

To cut the notch for the top, set the rip fence on a table saw 4” from the blade and the blade set at a depth of ¾”. Make a pass through the saw with each leg assembly (the top of the leg assembly will run along the rip fence). Reset the fence at 4-1/4” and make another pass with each assembly. Reset the fence at 4-1/2” and make a pass, then 4-3/4” and make a pass. This will cut the notches as needed. Remove any remaining material in the notches with a sharp chisel.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the top and apply edge banding. Pre-drill the holes for the countersunk screws where the notches are located to secure the top. Secure the top in the notches using glue and 2-1/2” screws.

Step 3

Cut the 1x3 pieces for the aprons and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the aprons to the legs under the table top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top corner of the aprons will be flush with the leg – in other words, the apron will remain perpendicular to the floor and not follow the angle of the legs.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post Contains Affiliate Links

Jan
22
2014
Project Image
Project Details

A good solid nightstand is a fabulous thing, especially one that stores with drawers and won't interefere with your established style of choice. Yahoo... I think a two toned finish or a natural wood look would be right on trend with this gorgeous modern piece! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 1 set of non-mortise hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 24-3/4” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 22-1/2” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/2” x 24” – Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” - Base
  • 2 – 1x2 at 21” - Base
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/2” x 22-1/2” - Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 24” - Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 24” – Front Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 22-1/4” – Door Base
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 24” – Door Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each shorter edge of the bottom. Secure the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the sides as well as the bottom edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the base and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the base using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the piece for the shelf and drill pocket holes in the sides as well as the back edges. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the shelf 1” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the piece for the front trim. Secure to the top and sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the door. The door base will fit inside the opening while the slats will rest on the sides. The slats will overhang the door base by 7/8” on each side and 7/8” at the bottom. Position the first slat 5/8” down from the top edge of the base and secure in place with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Space the remaining slats on the base at ¾” securing them with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

The hinges can be installed on either side. Install the hinges on the slats first, then install on the cabinet side.

Step 7
Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
04
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Children's Vintage Spool Table. I have 2 favorites when it comes to building... organizational items or clever storage pieces (Duh, I'm type A) and things I can build for the kiddos! Whether it's a furniture piece or something fun like toys, there is definitely something special about building a piece for a kid! Especially when that something is cute and stylish as though it could easily be for an adult, only it's smaller. This vintage spool table is just that... and a vintage industrial style for a kid space is divine...

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 6 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 4’ x 8’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 2” screws
  • 2” edge banding
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4'” plywood circles at 24” – Base
  • 2 – ¾” plywood circles at 14” – Base
  • 2 – ¾” plywood circles at 34” – Top
  • 24 – 1x2 at 20-1/4” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the circles for the base. Apply glue to the face of one piece, then layer the second piece on top. Wiggle it a little to create suction, then clamp the pieces together. Secure with a few 1-1/4” brad nails. Apply the edge banding, then trim.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the smaller base and position in the center of the base assembly. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the slats. Secure them to the smaller base – evenly spaced – using glue and countersunk 2” screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the top. Glue the pieces together in the same manner as the base and apply the edge banding.

Step 4
Step 5

Secure the smaller base piece to the center of the top. Secure it in the same manner as the base.

Step 5
Step 6

Set the top on the slats with the smaller base inside of them. Secure the slats to the base using glue and countersunk 2” screws.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Kiddos 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
03
2013
Project Image

I designed and built this unique 2 legged dual shelf table using reclaimed pine, oak, and popular.

Estimated Cost 

Reclaimed and recycled lumber, free. $0.00 in material

 

Length of Time 

Several hours to bring out the original beauty of the lumber, approx 6 hours for cut and chop and assembly. 

Modifications 

Approx 36, 18, 18 inches. 

Oct
14
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hudson Nightstand. By special reader request we are expanding upon this fabulous collection we started a long time ago in a far off land... At least it feels that way. It's lovely to bring it back full circle and round out our plans for the gorgesou Hudson Collection! Hope you like... Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 - quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – ¼” thick x ¾” wide lattice strips at 8’
  • 1 piece of ¾” cove moulding at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • ½” brad nails
  • 1” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 4 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 4 drawer pulls
  • 1 small pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 16-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 20” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 2x2 at 21-1/2” – Back Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 21-1/2” – Back Panel
  • 6 – 1x2 at 21-1/2” – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16-1/4” – Surface Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 26” – Top
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 17-3/4” x 21-1/4” – Flat Surface
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 19” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 8 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 8 – 1x3 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 4-3/8” x 21-1/4” – Drawer Front Base
  • 8 – ¼” x ¾” strips at 21-1/4” – Drawer Front Trim
  • 8 – ¼” x ¾” strips at 2-7/8” – Drawer Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame and the panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the first one as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the remaining stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the surface supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the vertical stretcher and the back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. The piece will overhang the sides and the front by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the surface. After finishing, apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom so it will slide smoothly. Insert into the opening.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs, then make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the trim then attach using glue and 1” brad nails. 

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer front bases and the trim. Position the trim on the bases as shown then secure using glue and ½” brad nails.

Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the front in the opening) then drive screws through the holes for the pulls into the drawer boxes. Open the drawer then secure the front with countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Make any necessary adjustments then finish drilling the holes for the pulls.

Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
16
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Parquetry End Table! Last week we brought you Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Parquetry Dresser and now the coordinating end table, yahoo! We still have one more piece in this collection and it's perhaps the most exciting yet! Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 Half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • ¼” plywood or lattice strips measuring 1-1/2” wide – approximately 2 – 8’ strips
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • ½” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1 set of 14” drawer slides
  • One drawer pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 1x2 at 18-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16-13/16” – Aprons
  • 2 – 1x2 at 13-3/8” – Aprons
  • 2 – 1x2 at 26” – Lower Bracing
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 18-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 15” – Drawer Frame Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 20” – Drawer Frame Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 20” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 16” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x4 at 12-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 17-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 6-1/4” x 20” – Drawer Front Base
  • Strips of ¼” plywood or lattice strips at 1-1/2” x 6” to 8” long (your choice!)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper using a jigsaw or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Cut the pieces for the aprons and cut 45 degree miters in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The inside face o the legs will be flush with the inside face of the aprons.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the cross braces. The pieces are cut extra long so that the angle can be cut to fit the legs. Because the bracing will cross to create a rectangle, the notches will have to be cut at an angle (see drawing). In other words, the notch will not be perpendicular to the board. Mark the center of the board on one end face. Draw a mark 3/8” on either side of the center mark. Use a square to draw the notch at a 13 degree angle, ¾” deep. Cut with a hacksaw or a jigsaw.

The bracing will be positioned on the legs 4” up from the floor. Assemble the bracing in an “X” and clamp to the legs to draw the angle for the cut. Cut using a jigsaw or miter saw, then drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the leg frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the drawer frame sides and back. Drill pocket holes in one shorter end of the sides. Secure to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the frame to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the drawer slides to the inside of the frame. This will make them easier to install before the top is attached.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the piece for the top and secure to the drawer frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the drawer. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Install the drawer-side drawer slides and make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the drawer front base, as well as the trim pieces. There is no cut list or number of pieces listed. Most of the pieces will be attached to the drawer front as-is, but several will have to be cut to fit. Start by positioning the first piece at the bottom center of the drawer front base at a 45 degree angle as shown. Secure in place using glue and ½” brad nails.

Position the next piece perpendicular to the start piece as shown. Secure using glue and ½” brad nails. Once these two pieces have been positioned, the rest of the pieces can be added, cutting and trimming as necessary.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Mark the position for the drawer pull and drill the holes. Position the drawer front as shown then drive a screw through each hole into the drawer box behind it. Open the drawer, then secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes in the front and finish drilling the holes for the drawer pull. Install the drawer pull.
For an easy tutorial, click here.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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