Browse all Free Woodworking Plans for End Tables

Mar
13
2015
Project Details

This cute thing is a handsome fella, don't you think? I love a nightstand with some interest and the spacing between the trunk and the legs is just the thing, I think, to give this guy something extra in the looks department!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$25-$75
Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’ (will have some left over)
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’ (will have some left over)
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’ (will have some left over)
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 4’x4’ 
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 12” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 17” – Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17-1/2” – Center Supports
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 19”x19-1/2” – Cabinet Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 4”x20” – Cabinet Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 3-1/2”x19” – Cabinet Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 20”x20” – Cabinet Top
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 17-1/2”x18-3/4” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 2-1/2”x17-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 3”x18-3/4” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 3-7/8”x18-3/4” – Drawer Front
Instructions

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Have fun and be sure to take pictures along the way, then you can share them with us to gawk over in a showcase post or via social media using the hashtag #builtTDCtuff - just be sure to tag me @thedesignconfidential or @thedesconf so I am sure to see your hard work! Yahoo

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Legs as shown. 

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Aprons. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Apron. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Center Supports. Mark out the curves as shown and cut out with your jigsaw. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Center Support. 

Step 4

Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Just a quick note – paint/stain these supports a different color than the other pieces of the nightstand for a great pop of color. If these pieces are painted a darker color, the top portion of the Nightstand will seem like it’s floating!

Step 5

Cut the piece for the Cabinet Bottom. With the Kreg jig set for 1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each side of the Cabinet Bottom. Attach to the Center Supports as shown with glue and 1” brad nails or wood screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Sides and Cabinet Back. With the Kreg jig set for 1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Cabinet Back. Apply edge banding if desired to the front of the Cabinet Sides. Attach the Cabinet Sides to the Cabinet Bottom as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.

Step 7

Attach the Cabinet Back to the Cabinet Sides as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.

Step 8

Cut the piece for the Cabinet Top. Apply edge banding to all edges if desired. Attach the Cabinet Top to the Cabinet Sides and Cabinet Back as shown with glue and 1” brad nails or wood screws.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for your Drawer Sides, Drawer Bottom, Drawer Back, and Drawer Front. Apply edge banding to all edges of the Drawer Front if desired. These pieces can be secured using 1” brad nails and glue or 1” wood screws with a countersink bit to predrill and glue. Note that the Drawer Front will overhang the Drawer Box on the bottom by 1/2” and on the top by 3/8”.

Step 10

Slide the fully assembled Drawer into the Cabinet as shown. After sanding, staining, and sealing, you may want to apply a coat of paste wax to the bottoms of the Drawer to help it slide smoothly. Add drawer hardware such as a pull or knob if desired. All you have left to do is dress this cutie up with a beautiful lamp, fresh flowers, and a good book!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Feb
15
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Project Details

The versatility of this adorable rolling cart table is just lovely! Use it as a bar cart, or rolling utility cart, even a side table and this gal will look fabulous no matter how you choose to put her to work. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$50-$75
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1-1/2” Wooden Dowel at 8’
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 2’x4’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 12-1/2” x18-1/2” – Upper and Lower Trays
  • 4 – 1x2 at 20” – Upper and Lower Tray Fronts and Backs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 14” – Upper and Lower Tray Sides
  • 4 – 1-1/2” Wooden Dowel at 4-1/4” – Bottom Posts
  • 4 – 1-1/2” Wooden Dowel at 14-1/4” – Middle Posts
  • 4 – 1-1/2” Wooden Dowel at 3-1/4” – Top Posts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Upper and Lower Trays. Mark the locations of the Posts as shown (on the top side and bottom side of each Tray). With a 1-1/2” Spade Bit, drill a hole at each location approximately 1/4” inch deep. You can wiggle the Spade Bit from side to side a little as you drill, so that the hole will be slightly larger than the 1-1/2” Post. Repeat this step twice - once for the Upper Tray and once for the Lower Tray.

Upper and Lower Trays:

Trays for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Upper and Lower Fronts, Backs, and Sides. Attach the Upper Front, Back, and Sides to the Upper Tray as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Repeat this process for the Lower Tray.  If you want a more rounded appearance for the corners of your trays, get out your sander and sand away!

Shown: Tray Top then Tray Bottom

Trays Top View for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Trays Top View for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Posts. Each Post will be composed of 3 pieces, but assembled in the Cart, will give the illusion of one long piece. For the Bottom Post, mark the center of the Post.  Using an appropriately sized Spade Bit, drill a hole slightly larger (we are using a 3/8” Spade Bit for our specific Caster) and longer (approximately 1” deep for our specific Caster) than the stem of the Caster you are using. You can wiggle the Spade Bit from side to side a little as you drill, so that the hole will be slightly larger and longer than the stem of the Caster.

Next, insert the stem of the Caster into the Lower Post – repeat for each Bottom Post.  The stem should fit very snug in the drilled hole. If it is a little looser than you would like, place a little glue into the drilled hole, reinsert the stem and let the glue set.

Lower Posts and Casters for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 4

Next, place a dab of glue into the holes drilled on the bottom side of the Lower Tray. Place the Bottom Posts (with inserted Casters) into the holes, ensuring that the Posts are set at 90 degrees. Each Post will be sunk 1/4” into the drilled hole.

Lower Tray Position for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 5

Place a dab of glue into the holes drilled on the top side of the Lower Tray. Place the Middle Posts into the holes, ensuring that the Posts are set at 90 degrees. Each Post will be sunk 1/4” into the drilled hole.

Middle Posts for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 6

Place a dab of glue into the holes drilled on the bottom side of the Upper Tray. Place the Middle Posts into the holes, ensuring that the Posts are set at 90 degrees. Each Post will be sunk 1/4” into the drilled hole.

Top Tray Position for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 7

Place a dab of glue into the holes drilled on the top side of the Upper Tray. Place the Top Posts into the holes, ensuring that the Posts are set at 90 degrees. Each Post will be sunk 1/4” into the drilled hole. If you want a more rounded appearance for the edges of the Top Posts, get out your sander and sand away!

Top Posts for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Feb
09
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Project Details

Happy Monday friends! I have been feverishly working on a big big project around here and I will start rolling that out this week! Yahoo, can't wait to show you what I have been up to! In the meantime, how bout them legs? The legs on this beauty can be sanded a bit more roundy on the sides and edges for that true MCM look and feel. I am crushing hard on the inlaid look of this top and the super duper cool looking legs on this gal, roundy or not! I hope you like this fun build! 

To check out all of the hundreds of free furniture plans we have published, check out the plan index page.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$50-$75
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 3/4”plywood at 4’x4’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood 3-1/2”x20-1/2” – Table Top
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood 3-1/2”x20-1/2” – Contrasting Table Top
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood 14-3/4”x20-1/2” – Center Table Top
  • 2 – 1x2 at 22” – Table Top Edge Ends
  • 2 – 1x2 at 30-1/4” – Table Top Edge Sides
  • 4 – 1x4 at 19” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x4 at 20-1/2” – Bottom Supports
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20-1/2”x24-3/4” – Bottom Shelf
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Top. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each piece of the Table Top as shown. To add visual interest, make the “Contrasting Top Pieces” a different color or a grain perpendicular to the other Top Pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

(Top View)

(Bottom View)

Top View for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Bottom View for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Table Top Edge Pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Table Top Edges for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 3

Next, cut the pieces for the Legs. The Legs will taper from the top at a 3-1/2” width down to a 1-1/2” width at the bottom. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes at the top of each Leg. These pieces can be “contrasting” in color or style.

Legs for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 4

Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Positioning the Legs for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Supports as shown. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the upper area and side areas of each Bottom Support. These pieces can be “contrasting” in color or style.

Bottom Supports for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 6

Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. 

Positioning the Bottom Supports for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 7

Cut the piece for the Bottom Shelf. Attach to the Bottom Supports as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Bottom Shelf for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links
Oct
28
2014
The Design Confidential Real Reader Showcase // The Pursuit of Handyness Campaign Dresser

I chose to build a Campaign Style Dresser for the hubs side of the bed. For my side of the bed, you might remember that I built the Parquetry Dresser that can be seen as a Builders Showcase here.

Finished Cut and Sanded Plywood and Boards for The Design Confidential Real Reader Showcase // The Pursuit of Handyness Campaign Dresser
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

$160

Modifications 

I chose to replace the top drawer with an open shelf and modified the dimensions to suit my space.

Finishing Technique 

American Walnut Stain and Polyurethane

Modified Top Drawer to be a Shelf for The Design Confidential Real Reader Showcase // The Pursuit of Handyness Campaign Dresser
Profile View of Finished Campaign Dresser for The Design Confidential Real Reader Showcase // The Pursuit of Handyness Campaign Dresser
Aug
18
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Project Details

I think a Side Table with storage is a perfectly versatile and adaptable piece of furniture. You might use this gorgeous gal as a nightstand, or next to your sofa, and perhaps to create a fabulous design moment on an otherwise empty wall. Mix it up and try this cute friend in a space you might not typically put a side table. You just might love it... Xx... Rayan 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 - 3/4” sheet of plywood at 4’ x 8’  
  • 1 - 3/4” sheet of plywood at 2’ x 4’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 22” x 20” – Table Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 20” x 19” – Table Sides  
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20-1/2” x 17-1/2” – Table Back
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 6” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Dividers
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20” x 20-1/2” – Table Top
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20-3/4” x 22” – Finished Table Top
  • 4 – 2x4 at 3-1/2” x 11-1/4” – Table Legs      
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12” – Front and Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 10” – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Top Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 2-3/4” x 16-1/2” – Top Drawer Sides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 3-1/2” – Top Drawer Frontsand Backs
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 22” x 4-3/4” – Top Drawer FinishedFront  
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/2” x 4-3/4” – Bottom Drawer Sides
  • 4 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 5-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Fronts and Backs
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 22” x 6-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Finished Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the Table Bottom and Sides and attach as shown with glue and pocket screws. 

Cabinet Sides and Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 2

Cut out the Table Back and attach as shown to the Table Sides and Bottom with glue and pocket screws. When the Back is in place, it will leave a 3/4” space at the top for the Table Top.

Side Table Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 3

Cut out the Drawer Dividers and attach as shown on the front edge of the Table Sides with glue and pocket screws. There will be a 4-3/4” space above the Top Drawer Divider and a 6” space above and below the Bottom Drawer Divider.

Side Table Drawer Dividers for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 4

Cut and attach the Table Top to the Table Sides and Table Back with glue and pocket screws. The back of the Table Top will rest on top of the Table Back.

Side Table Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 5

Cut and attach the Finished Table Top to the Table Top as shown with glue and pocket screws. The front of the Finished Table Top will have a 3/4” overhang. 

Finished Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 6

Time to cut out the Table Legs! You will need 4 of these exactly the same. This diagram shows you how to mark out the shape you need for the Table Legs. Use your circular saw to cut this out. If you simply connect the dots between the dimensions outlined below and use a circular saw to make these cuts, you won't have to worry about the actual angle for each corner.

Leg Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Stretchers. Cut a 45 degree angle in each end of the long Stretchers and the short Stretchers. Also drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece (to attach to the bottom of the Table). Secure to the Legs (the top of the Stretchers will be flush with the top of the Legs) using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Side Table Base Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 8

Position the base frame on the bottom of the Table. It will be located 5” in from each side, and 3-1/2” from the front edge. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Bottom Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 9

And now on to the drawers!

  • Cut the pieces for the Top Drawer Bottom and Sides and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
  • Cut and attach the Top Drawer Front and Back Pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

  • Cut and attach the Top Drawer Front to the Drawer Box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The Front will extend 1” above the Drawer Box on the top, 1-1/4” on the sides, and 1/4” on the bottom. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the Drawer Box to help it slide smoothly. Add drawer hardware such as a pull or knob if desired.

 

Top Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Top Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Top Drawer Face for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 10

The next three steps will be repeated twice, since this project has two lower drawers of the same size.

  • Cut the pieces for Bottom Drawer Bottoms and Sides and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
  • Cut and attach the Bottom Drawer Fronts and Back Pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

  • Cut and attach the Bottom Drawer Finished Fronts to the Drawer Boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The Fronts will extend 3/4” above the Drawer Boxes on the top, 1-1/4” on the sides, and 1/4” on the bottom. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the Drawer Box to help it slide smoothly. Add drawer hardware such as a pull or knob if desired.

Bottom Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Bottom Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Bottom Drawer Face for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

May
30
2014
Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Project Details

I promised you all a whole new set of outdoor furniture plans, and by golly that is precisely what you are going to get! Yahoo! We started this off with the gorgeous Free DIY Outdoor Furniture Plans for Building a Crosby Indoor Outdoor Coffee Table and today we continue with plans for building the end table! If you want to take a peak at a few of our most popular outdoor furniture plans to date, this article here covers our Top 10 DIY Outdoor Furniture Plans and Reader Faves! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Tools
Lumber

3 - 1x4 at 8'

2 - 2x2 at 8'

Materials
Cut List

6 - 1x4 at 21 3/4" Top

2 - 1x4 at 20 1/4" Frame

2 - 1x4 at 11 1/2" Supports

4 - 2x2 at 20 11/16" Legs

2 - 2x2 at 11 3/4" Stretchers

2 - 2x2 at 17" Trusses 

1 - 2x2 at 17 1/4" Center Rail

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build out your frame. Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1-1/4” Pocket Hole Screws and Wood glue to secure the pieces together. Use your Clamps to hold the boards together while you secure them and consider letting your glue setup for a bit before you fasten with your screws. 

Frame for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 2

Cut and Fasten your Legs. Your legs will be mitered at 8.2 Degrees Off Center, which is an 81.8 Degree Angle if you Center Mark on your Miter Saw reads as 90 rather than 0. Your cuts will be parallel at both ends. To secure your legs in place, use your countersink bit and 1 1/2" wood screws and glue. 

Legs for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 3

Attach your Stretchers. These are just a straight cut and will be fastened in place 3" up from ground level. You can fasten these in place using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue. You will want to align the front edges of your stretchers with the front edges of your legs, which will cause a bit of overhang on the backside, but will look better. 

**Note: If you cut your Center Rail for the next step in advance you may want to attach it to the stretchers and then attach the stretchers to the legs, just to be sure you don't end up with a piece that is either too long or too short and have to recut or refasten something.

Stretchers for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 4

Cut and Attach your Center Rail. Since the previous step leaves a bit of wiggle room, you may want to measure this just before you are ready to attach it and after you have secured your stretchers so you know precisely how long this piece should be. Once you have this piece cut and ready to secure, use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to secure from underneath. 

Center Rails for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 5

Cut and Fasten your Trusses in Place. Cut these at a 20 Degree Angle. Secure in place using your countersink drill bit and 1 1/2" wood screws and glue from underneath up through the center rail and from above and down through the frame. Since these will sit astride the frame pieces at the top, secure at a slight angle so you don't accidentially come out the side of your truss. 

Trusses for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 6

Fasten your Frame to your Top Boards. Your Top Boards should be spaced 1/4" apart and the frame should sit 6" in on either side and 1" back on the front and back. Secure in place from underneath using your 1 1/4" Brad Nails and Glue. You can also use screws if you prefer or if you will need to remove the top in the future for any reason. 

Table Top for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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