Browse all Tutorials for Creating PotteryBarn Knock Offs

Jan
02
2014
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Juliette Twin Bed. Plans by special reader request and modified for ease of building for all of you! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 7 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws Bed hardware ( like this )
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 2x2 at 15-3/4” – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – 1x8 at 39” – Footboard
  • 2 – 2x2 at 38-1/4” – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – 1x3 at 39” – Headboard
  • 5 – 1x8 at 39” – Headboard
  • 2 – 1x6 at 75” – Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 72-3/4” – Slat Support
  • 14 – 1x3 at 40-1/2” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the footboard and the legs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x8 piece. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the footboard will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the headboard and legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of three of the 1x8 pieces, each end of the 1x3 piece, and one long end of four of the 1x8 pieces. Assemble the 1x8 pieces to create a large panel positioning the two pieces without pocket holes at each end at the top (the ends will be cut away). To create the decorative arc at the top, use a large sheet of kraft paper measuring 15” wide x 39” long and fold it in half lengthwise. Start at the top of the fold and draw a curvy line to the opposite corner (here is where you can get really creative!!). Use scissors to cut along the line then unfold the paper. This will be the template for the upper portion of the headboard. Position the paper on the headboard panel and trace around the curve with a pencil. Cut out with a jigsaw.

Attach the panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the 1x3 in the same manner as shown.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and the slat supports. Position the slat supports so that the bottom is flush with the bottom of the sides, and locate the pieces approximately 1-1/4” from each edge. Secure the supports to the sides using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Install the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the slats. Position them on the supports, evenly spaced, and fasten in place using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Do not use glue!!

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
14
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hudson Nightstand. By special reader request we are expanding upon this fabulous collection we started a long time ago in a far off land... At least it feels that way. It's lovely to bring it back full circle and round out our plans for the gorgesou Hudson Collection! Hope you like... Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 - quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – ¼” thick x ¾” wide lattice strips at 8’
  • 1 piece of ¾” cove moulding at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • ½” brad nails
  • 1” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 4 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 4 drawer pulls
  • 1 small pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 16-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 20” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 2x2 at 21-1/2” – Back Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 21-1/2” – Back Panel
  • 6 – 1x2 at 21-1/2” – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16-1/4” – Surface Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 26” – Top
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 17-3/4” x 21-1/4” – Flat Surface
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 19” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 8 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 8 – 1x3 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 4-3/8” x 21-1/4” – Drawer Front Base
  • 8 – ¼” x ¾” strips at 21-1/4” – Drawer Front Trim
  • 8 – ¼” x ¾” strips at 2-7/8” – Drawer Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame and the panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the first one as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the remaining stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the surface supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the vertical stretcher and the back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. The piece will overhang the sides and the front by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the surface. After finishing, apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom so it will slide smoothly. Insert into the opening.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs, then make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the trim then attach using glue and 1” brad nails. 

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer front bases and the trim. Position the trim on the bases as shown then secure using glue and ½” brad nails.

Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the front in the opening) then drive screws through the holes for the pulls into the drawer boxes. Open the drawer then secure the front with countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Make any necessary adjustments then finish drilling the holes for the pulls.

Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
11
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Caroline Queen Bed! By special reader request... but we created this plan with some modifications that make it easier to build using standard lumber and parts from your local hardware stores! If you prefer to get fancy with the legs, go for it, it will be fabulous! Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 20 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x6 at6’
  • 2 – 1x10 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x10 at 8’
  • 2 – 4x4 post at 6’
  • 1 – Half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws 1 set of bed rail brackets (like these)
  • 8 – 9” post finials/feet
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 4x4 posts at 23-1/4” – Footboard Legs
  • 2 – 1x10 (ripped to 9” wide) at 59” – Footboard & Headboard
  • 2 – 4x4 posts at 42-3/4” – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – 1x6 at 59” – Headboard
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 29” x 51” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 1x10 (ripped to 9” wide) at 80” – Side Rails
  • 2 – 1x2 at 80” – Slat Supports
  • 1 – 1x2 at 83” – Center Support
  • 2 – 1x2 at 9” – Center Support Legs
  • 20 – 1x3 at 62” – Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the footboard legs. Drill a hole in the center of the leg matching the depth and diameter of the bolt at the ends of the finials and feet. Attach to the top and bottom of each post. Cut the piece for the footboard. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the piece so that the front face is set back ¼” from the front face of the legs. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the headboard legs and attach the finials and feet in the same manner as in the footboard. Cut the 1x6 and 1x10 pieces for the headboard and drill pocket holes at each end. Cut the piece for the panel and drill pocket holes in the longer edges. Secure the 1x6 piece and the 1x10 piece to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the assembly so that the front face is set back ¼” from the front face of the legs. Secure the headboard assembly to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the side rails and the slat supports. Attach the slat supports to the lower edge of the side rails using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws. Attach the bed rail hardware according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the center support and the support legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the support, as well as one end of each leg. Secure the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the support to the headboard and footboard as shown using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Do not use glue!

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the slats. Attach to the supports spacing them 1” apart using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Do not use glue!

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
02
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Dawson Small Desk. We have several other pieces in the Dawson Collection, and you guys... I really adore this set of plans.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 6’
  • 2 – 4x4 posts at 6’
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 3” screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 1 set of 20” drawer slides
  • 1 drawer pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 4x4 posts at 30” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 16” – Side Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 16” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 2x2 at 16” – Drawer Slide Spacers
  • 2 – 2x4 at 39” – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 39” – Back
  • 2 – 2x2 at 20” – Top Side
  • 2 – 2x2 at 46” – Top Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 43” – Top Panel
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 36-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x3 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 28” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 38-3/4” – Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the legs, side stretchers, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the panel as shown. Secure the panel to the stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the panel so it is located ¼” back from the outside edge of the stretcher. Secure the panel and stretcher to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the panel into the legs, and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the stretcher into the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the drawer slide spacers. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the spacer will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the stretchers. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the piece for the back panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the panel as shown. Secure the panel to the back stretcher and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the top. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the side pieces. Attach the side pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panel will be flush with the top face of the sides. Attach the front and back pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the panel, and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the side pieces.

Apply glue to the top of the side panels, back panel, and the legs. Position the top and secure using glue and 3” countersunk screws through the top into the legs.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble the drawer as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the drawer front. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the front. For another easy tutorial, click here.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
29
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build the Upper Storage for a Garrity Modular Cubby! We covered the lower unit here, and now we complete this fabulous circle of furniture goodness...

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • Half sheet of ½” plywood
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-3/4” x 37-3/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 37-3/4” x 40-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 40-1/4” – Bottom
  • 4 – 1x2 at 40-1/4” – Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 40-1/4” – Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 12” – Upper Dividers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/4” x 12” – Lower Dividers
  • 6 – ½” plywood at 11-3/4” x 12” – Cubby Dividers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 12” – Cubby Dividers
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 12” x 40-1/4” – Cubby Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-3/4” x 41-3/4” – Top
  • 1 – 1x3 (ripped to 2-1/4” wide) at 41-3/4” – Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the sides and bottom of the back. Secure the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in the sides and back edge. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the stretchers as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the stretchers, sides , and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the pieces to the overall length and width first, then cut the notch using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back of the lower dividers, and the bottom and back only of the upper dividers. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the cubby dividers. Cut the notches in each piece as indicated. Assemble as shown and secure with glue. ** It may be easier to stand the vertical pieces in the cabinet first, then slide the shelf in. **

Insert into the cabinet, then secure with a few brad nails through the sides, shelf and bottom.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the trim. Rout a decorative edge at the top, if desired, then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
26
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build the Lower Storage for a Garrity Modular Cubby. This is such a fun piece and you all know how much I adore anything modular and with lot's of storage so this is like a fabulous double whammy! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x4at 4’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 4’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 37-3/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 40-1/4” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 33-1/2” x 40-1/4” – Back
  • 3 – 1x2 at 40-1/4” – Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x4 at 40-1/4” – Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 40-1/4”- Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/4” x 23-1/4” – Lower Dividers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/4” x 18-3/4” – Middle Dividers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 18-3/4”- Upper Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 41-3/4” – Top
  • 1 – 1x6 (ripped to 4-1/4” wide) at 41-3/4” - Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut the pieces to the overall length and width first, then cut the detail using a jigsaw.

Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the sides and lower edge. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the stretchers as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the stretchers, sides , and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the pieces for the lower dividers. Cut the pieces to the overall length and width first, then cut the detail using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back of the pieces. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the middle dividers. Cut the pieces to the overall length and width first, then cut the notch using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back of the pieces. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the upper dividers. Cut the pieces to the overall length and width first, then cut the detail using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back of the pieces. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the piece for the trim. Rout a decorative edge at the top, if desired, then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 9
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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