PotteryBarn

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans, teaching you How to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Sawhorse Console Table! I think I have a slight obsession with sawhorse tables of any variety... am I alone on that one? Or do you guys love them too? Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 6 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x6 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 2 sets of non-mortise hinges
  • 4 – 1” metal straps approx. 18” long
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 1x2 at 22” – X
  • 8 – 1x2 at 10-1/2” – X
  • 4 – 1x3 at 13-1/2” – Sawhorse Side Frame
  • 4 – 1x3 at 16-1/2” – Sawhorse Side Frame
  • 8 – 1x2 at 27-1/2 – Sawhorse Legs
  • 3 – 2x6 at 84” – Top
  • 7 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Top Supports
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the X. Cut the angles as shown noting that they are NOT cut at 45 degrees. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble the X pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the sawhorse side frames. Drill pocket holes in each end of the lower 1x3 frame pieces as well as the top edge of each leg. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Install the hinges at the top of the sawhorses. Cut the metal straps to length and drill a hole in each end. Secure to the sides with 1-1/4” screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble the top using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the top supports and position them as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

The top will rest on the sawhorses with the sawhorses located between the two supports that are located closest together.

Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Easy to follow, Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jocelyn Console Table! I love this cute little gal and with that bit of storage, she is that much more functional! Love that! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 6 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 1 scrap of 2x4 at 20”
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood
  • 2 – Cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 35-1/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x3 at 20” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 2x2 at 20” – Side Frames
  • 7 – 2x2 at 46” – Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 46” – Back Panel
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 23” x 49” – Shelves
  • 1 – 2x2 at 7” – Center Divider
  • 1 – 2x4 at 20” – Center Support
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 50” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-7/8” x 22” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 20” – Drawer Sides (inside)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 20” – Drawer Sides (outside)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 22” – Drawer Backs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side frames. Cut the notches in two of the 2x3 pieces as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the two 2x3 pieces with the notches. Drill pocket hole in these pieces as shown. Position the pieces as shown orienting the pocket hole screws so they will be hidden (and not have to be filled). Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. 

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and the back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back panel as shown. Secure two of the stretchers to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the back face of the back panel is flush with the inside faces of the stretchers. Secure the panel assembly and remaining stretchers as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut the notches with a jigsaw. Secure the shelves using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the center divider and drill pocket holes in the top edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center support drill pocket holes at each end. The pocket holes for the front edge will have to be close together as the piece will be secured to the 2x2 divider. Position the piece so that it is centered on the 2x2 and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Position the piece so that it overhangs by ½” on each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and stretchers.

Step 6
Step 7

The drawers are constructed differently than normal. There is a right drawer and a left drawer. The “outside” sides are taller than the “inside” sides. Construct one drawer as shown in the drawings, then reverse the sides for the other drawer.

Cut the pieces for the fronts and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces. Locate the bottom holes in the taller side pieces so that the back can be fastened to it. The “inside” sides will be positioned 3/8” from the top of the front, making the bottom 1-1/2” up from the bottom of the front. The “outside” sides will be positioned 3/8” from the top of the front making the bottom flush with the front. Make sure the pocket holes are facing in! Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. The bottom face will be flush with the bottom edge of the “inside” sides, making it positioned 1-1/2” up from the bottom on the “outside” sides. Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the back and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Rub a coat of paste wax on the bottom edges of the drawers. This will help them slide much easier!

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Moreno Bar! This plan is perfect for those of you who would like to bring a little of that entertaining vibe into your room! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
  • 1 – half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood
  • 1 set of 16” drawer slides
  • 3 – Cabinet pulls
  • 2 sets of hinges for the doors
  • 1 set of hinges for the flip-up top
  • 2 Friction Lid Supports (like these)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 1x4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 33-1/4” – Side Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/4” x 30-3/4” plywood – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1x4 at 29-3/4” – Front Legs
  • 1 – 1x4 at 45” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 34-3/4” x 43-1/2” – Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/2” x 43-1/2” – Shelves
  • 1 – 1x3 at 27-1/4” – Front Divider
  • 1 – 1x4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 15-1/2” – Top Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/8” x 16-3/4” – Fixed Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-5/8” x 33-3/4” – Flip-Up Top
  • 4 – 1x3 at 12-1/2” – Door Frame
  • 4 – 1x3 at 27-1/8” – Door Frame
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 22-1/8” – Door Panel
  • 2 – 1x2 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 9-1/2” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 9-1/2” x 16” – Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 1x3 at 11” – Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the side legs and the side panel. Cut the angle in the leg using a jigsaw. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each long end of the panel, and in one long edge of one leg as shown. Keep in mind, there will be a right side assembly and a left side assembly! Attach the legs to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretcher. Cut the angle in the legs using a jigsaw, and drill pocket holes in the top edge keeping in mind there will be a right and a left. Cut the hole in the stretcher for the drawer using a jigsaw. Attach the legs to each end of the stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the side legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back. Draw a 4” radius at each corner and cut with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in each side edge. Secure the back piece to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back will stand 4” above the side to create a “backsplash”. 

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in three edges. Secure to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the upper shelf will be flush with the bottom of the upper stretcher. 

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the front divider and drill pocket holes in the top edge. Secure to the upper stretcher as shown. Add a couple of countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the divider into each of the shelves.

Cut the piece for the top divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the fixed top. Position the piece so that it butts up against the backsplash and overhangs the front and side by ½”. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the flip-up top and install the hinges. There will be a 1/8” gap between the top and the back splash as well as between the top and the fixed top. The front and sides will overhang by ½”.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the doors and drill pocket holes as shown. Install the hinges, then install the doors. Attach the cabinet pulls in the location desired.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces, and assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom using glue and 1” brad nails. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Cut the piece for the drawer front. For another easy tutorial, click here. Install the cabinet pull as desired.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ridgely Media Console. The simple lines of this are begging for a build with a glossy finish or perhaps a more rustic and weathered finish. I feel like it could go either way and I can't wait to see which you choose. Please send images to me via email of your completed build, or post a showcase, so we can celebrate your accomplishment! yahoo... Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Router and decorative bit, optional
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 1x10 at 6’
  • 3 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at6’
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 2” edge banding for edges of top
  • 7/8” edge banding for edges of shelf and panels
  • 5 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 5 drawer handles or knobs
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 1x3 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 54-7/8” – Front Frame & Back Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 54-7/8” – Back Panel
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 17” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 54-7/8” – Shelf
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Slide Supports
  • 4 – 1x2 at 11” – Dividers
  • 4 – 1x2 at 15-1/2” – Dividers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 71-7/8” – Top
  • 5 – ¾” plywood at 7-7/8” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 10 – 1x6 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 10 – 1x6 at 9-3/8” – Drawer Fronts & Backs
  • 2 – 1x10 (ripped to 7-3/4” wide) x 10-9/16” – Outer Drawer Fronts
  • 3 – 1x10 (ripped to 7-3/4” wide) x 11” – Inner Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs, the front frame pieces, the back panel and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frames pieces and the stretcher. Drill pocket holes at three sides of the back to attach to the legs and to attach the top.

Assemble the front and back frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Drill pocket holes along three edges to attach to the legs and to attach the top. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the shelf. Attach to the front frame and back stretcher using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Attach to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The supports will be flush with the inside edge of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes as shown, then assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the dividers to the inside of the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the top. Spread glue on the surface of one of the pieces. Position the other piece on top and wiggle it a little to create suction, then clamp until dry.

Position on the cabinet with 6” hanging over each side, and flush at the front and back. Attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes drilled in the top edges of the sides and back.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottoms, as well as the shorter ends of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Cut a decorative edge on the fronts, if desired. Attach the drawer fronts to the drawer boxes. For another easy tutorial, click here.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jacqueline Bedside Table. Oh this little lady is gorgeous, isn't she? I love the delicate curves paired with her substantial form. A fabulous addition to any room! Xx...Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 2 – 3/8” thick craft boards at 2-1/2” wide x 3’
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Half sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 3/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1 – Set of 20” Drawer slides
  • 1 – Drawer pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x6 ay 19-1/2” – Sides
  • 3 – 1x2 at 31-1/2” – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x6 at 31-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – 3/8” material at 2-1/2” x 19-1/2” – Slide Fillers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 23” x 35-1/2” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 29” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 19-1/4” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 30-1/2” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 31=1/4” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 6-1/4” x 20” – Hutch Sides
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 6-1/4” x 34-1/2” – Hutch Back
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 2-1/2” x 8-1/2” – Hutch Dividers
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 8-1/2” x 34-1/2” – Hutch Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 34-1/2” – Hutch Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs, stretchers,  and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side and stretcher pieces. Center on the legs, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back and back stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end. Center on the legs, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide fillers. Attach to the sides as shown using countersunk ¾” screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, legs, back, and stretchers.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes on all four edges of the bottom, as well as each end of the drawer sides. Attach the sides to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the drawer back in the same manner. The drawer front will overlap the sides of the drawer box by 3/8” at each side. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the hutch sides. Cut an arc in each piece maintaining the dimensions as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the lower edge of each piece. Keep in mind there will be a right and a left piece.

Cut the piece for the hutch back and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the bottom edge. Attach using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the hutch dividers. Drill pocket holes in one edge only of each piece. Position two of the dividers and shown then secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Set the other two dividers aside.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the hutch shelf. Attach to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, as well as through the sides into the shelf.

Attach the other two dividers as shown using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, and through the sides and back into the shelf.

Step 9
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free Plans to Build a gorgeous Farmhouse Bed! A simple build with sturdy lines and amazing style! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 3x3 at 8’
  • 7 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 16 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 sheets  of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 3x3 at 48-1/2” – Headboard Legs
  • 3 – 2x3 at 60-1/2” – Headboard Panel & Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 29” x 60-1/2” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 1x4 (ripped to 3” wide) at 66-1/2” – Headboard & Footboard Trim
  • 2 – 1x4 at 67-1/2” – Headboard & Footboard Trim
  • 2 – 3x3 at 19-1/2” – Footboard Legs
  • 2 – 2x3 at 60-1/2” – Footboard Panel
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 60-1/2” – Footboard Panel
  • 4 – 2x3 at 79-1/2” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 79-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1x2 at 79-1/2 – Slat Supports
  • 1 – 2x2 at 79-1/2” – Center Support
  • 2 – 2x2 at 7” – Center Support
  • 16 – 1x3 at 60-1/2” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs. Cut the angle as shown using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

Cut the pieces for the headboard panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2x3 pieces as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Insert the plywood panel and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the legs and 2x3 pieces.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the headboard trim. The front and sides of each trim piece will overlap by ½”. Secure each piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the footboard legs. Cut the angle as shown using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

Cut the pieces for the footboard panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2x3 pieces as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Insert the plywood panel and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the legs and 2x3 pieces.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the footboard trim. The front and sides of each trim piece will overlap by ½”. Secure each piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2x3s to the plywood using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the 2x3 pieces.

Attach the slat support using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the slat supports will be flush with the bottom of the sides.

Secure the sides to the legs as shown using 2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue – the bed may need to be disassembled (plus it has to fit through the door!).

Step 5
Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the center support. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer support, as well as one end of each leg piece. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Attach to the center of the headboard stretcher and footboard using 2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue!

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the slats. Position them, evenly spaced, and secure using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue!

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Ava Coffee Table! Isn't she fabulous? Oh how I love a good X base on a table. This might seem like a scary endeavor to a new builder, but I assure you that once you dive into the process, it's very simple and very straightforward. So you newbies out there, don't be afraid to try angled cuts on your first time out! I promise you can do it! Xx... Rayan 

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/2” screws
  • One 20” x 46-1/2” piece of Plexiglas
  • Clear rubber bumpers (to place the glass on the frame)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12-1/8” – Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 42-1/2” – Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 39-1/2” – Stretcher
  • 4 – 1x3 at 23-7/8” – X
  • 4 – 1x3 at 11” – X
  • 4 – 1x3 at 11-1/8” - X
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Xs. Cut the angles as shown – they are NOT 45 deg angles! Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter pieces as shown. Assemble the Xs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws maintaining the dimensions as shown. Attach two X assemblies to each other (with the pocket holes facing in) using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the center of each X assembly using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the frame on the X assemblies with the pocket holes facing down and secure using glue and 1-1/2” countersunk screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Position the rubber bumpers on the frame and set the Plexiglass  on top.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Ava Desk! I pretty sure this gal looks good regardless of her use. Desk, end table, console... she's just gorgeous and what a simple build she is!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/2” screws
  • One 28” x 52” piece of Plexiglas
  • Clear rubber bumpers (to place the glass on the frame)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x2 at 20” – Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 42” – Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 39” – Stretcher
  • 4 – 1x3 at 37-5/8” – X
  • 4 – 1x3 at 17-7/8” – X
  • 4 – 1x3 at 18-1/8” - X
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Xs. Cut the angles as shown – they are NOT 45 deg angles! Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter pieces as shown. Assemble the Xs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws maintaining the dimensions as shown. Attach two X assemblies to each other (with the pocket holes facing in) using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the center of each X assembly using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the frame on the X assemblies with the pocket holes facing down and secure using glue and 1-1/2” countersunk screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Position the rubber bumpers on the frame and set the Plexiglass  on top.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Ellsworth Entertaining Cabinet! This piece has great lines and will satisfy the antique or vintage lovers of you, out there! A Modern build for the furniture lovers of a bygone era! 

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
  • One quarter sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for exposed edges of plywood
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 2 cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/2” x 42” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 42” x 46-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 21” x 46-1/2” – Bottom & Shelf
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” 27-1/4” – Front Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x  41-1/2” – Front Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x  41-1/2” – Front Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-3/4” x 46-1/2” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 48” – Front Apron
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 46-1/2” – Upper Shelf
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 15-9/16” – Door Frame
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 21” – Door Frame
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 15-9/16” x 16” – Door Panels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Maintaining the dimensions shown, cut the curves using a jigsaw.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Cut the curve in the bottom as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelf and the bottom. Drill pocket holes along the two shorter edges and one long edge. Secure in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The shelf and bottom will be positioned ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the horizontal pieces. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach to the front of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes along the two shorter edges and one long edge. Secure in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the top to the top of the frame using 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the front apron. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the upper shelf. Drill pocket holes along the two shorter edges and one long edge. Secure in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Attach the shorter frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame pieces. Attach the side frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. Attach the hinges to the doors, then install in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door as well as in between the two. Install the cabinet pulls.

Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Ava Console Table. This simple build is just so stylish, yahoo! I can't wait to see who gives this collection a try first...

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/2” screws
  • One 18” x 45” piece of Plexiglas
  • Clear rubber bumpers (to place the glass on the frame)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x2 at 10-11/16” – Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 41” – Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 38” – Stretcher
  • 4 – 1x3 at 32-5/16” – X
  • 4 – 1x3 at 15-9/16” – X
  • 4 – 1x3 at 15-3/4” - X
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Xs. Cut the angles as shown – they are NOT 45 deg angles! Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter pieces as shown. Assemble the Xs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws maintaining the dimensions as shown. Attach two X assemblies to each other (with the pocket holes facing in) using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the center of each X assembly using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the frame on the X assemblies with the pocket holes facing down and secure using glue and 1-1/2” countersunk screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Position the rubber bumpers on the frame and set the Plexiglass  on top.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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