Browse all Tutorials for Creating West Elm Knock Offs

Nov
20
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Emmerson Full Sized Bed. We have so many amazing pieces in the Emmerson Collection so far and several more to come! For each of the pieces in this collection, you can stain them in a striped pattern to mimic slats or you can substitute for actual slats of different boards with different amounts of weathering and stain colors.

Showcase: Built From These Plans

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

 

  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber

 

  • Two sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 4x4 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 15 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • One set of Bed Rail Brackets
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

 

  • 2 – 4x4 at 44” – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 36” x 50” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 1x4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 50” – Headboard/Footboard Top
  • 2 – 4x4 at 15-1/2” – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 50” – Footboard Panel
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 76” – Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 72” – Slat Supports
  • 15 – 1x3 at 55-1/2” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

Apply optional edge banding to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the panel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

 

Cut the pieces for the footboard legs and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the panel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 

Cut the pieces for the sides and the slat support. Attach the slat supports to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws leaving 2” at each end for the bed hardware. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the pieces for the slats. The slats will be spaced approximately 2-1/2” apart. Attach to the supports using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue! The slats may have to be removed at some point to take the bed apart!

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Nov
18
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Coffee Table. We have several pieces in the Copenhagen Collection so far, and this is a fabulous addition to the group! The frame can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal for ease of building and is right on trend with that mixed media look that is so popular right now! Not to mention these mixed look pieces blend well into many different styles so mix it up and add something special to your living or family room this year! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’         
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the top
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 16-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 52” – Stretchers
  • 4 – 2x2 at 27” – Stretchers
  • 6 – 1x2 at 28-1/2” – Top Supports & Top Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 55” – Top Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 28-1/2” x 53-1/2” – Top Panel
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the longer stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top supports. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the top panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.

Cut the pieces for the top trim and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Insert the top panel – the outside face will be flush with the outside face of the frame – then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the top so that the trim overhangs the top supports, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
30
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Media Stand. The frame can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal and give this piece a fabulous industrial feel. Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • Scrap of 1x2 measuring approximately 16”
  • 6 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 3 sets of 18” drawer slides
  • 3 cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 12” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 71” – Stretchers
  • 4 – 2x2 at 9” – Frame Supports
  • 8 – 2x2 at 17” – Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 74” – Bottom & Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 20” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-7/8” x 72-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-7/8” x 19-1/4” – Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 72-1/2” – Shelf
  • 2 – 1x2 at 7-7/8” – Top Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Small Drawer Bottom
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Small & Large Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 22” – Small Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 21-1/2” – Large Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 23” – Large Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-5/8” x 22-3/4” – Small Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-5/8” x 23-3/4” – Large Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs, the longer stretchers, and the supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces as well as each end of the support pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the piece for the bottom then secure to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the lower edges only. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position in the cabinet as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the lower edges only. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Add a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the back to further secure the dividers. 

Step 6

Cut the piece for the shelf. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the back. Use 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the shelf, as well as through the shelf into the dividers.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Cut the pieces for the top supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawers. The center drawer is narrower than the drawers on either side. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions then make any necessary adjustments. 

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the fronts in the openings. Mark the position for the cabinet pulls and drill the holes. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles. 

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
23
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Queen Sized Bed! The frame can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal and more closely resemble the inspiration piece. This piece would be fabulous across from our Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Buffet which could easily double as a fabulous media cabinet. Just love this collection... Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 20 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 12 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 48” – Headboard Legs
  • 6 – 2x2 at 73” – Headboard & Footboard Stretchers
  • 8 – 2x2 at 7” – Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 27” x 73” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 2x2 at 10” – Footboard Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 89” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 61-1/2” – Support Frame
  • 2 – 2x4 at 89” – Support Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 82” – Center Support
  • 1 – 2x2 at 89” – Center Support
  • 2 – 1x6 at 65” – Slat Frame
  • 2 – 1x6 at 92” – Slat Frame
  • 20 – 1x3 at 65” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs, stretchers, support, and panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers and support. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Assemble the headboard frame as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Insert the panel with the outside face flush with the outside face of the frame then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the footboard stretchers, legs, and support. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers and support. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

**For the remaining steps, DO NOT use glue so that the bed can be disassembled.

Cut the pieces for the side rails. Drill pocket holes in each end of the rail pieces as well as each end of the supports. Assemble as shown using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the support frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of all four pieces, as well as one long edge of each shorter piece (to attach to the headboard and footboard). Secure as shown using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the center support. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure as shown using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the slat frame. Cut the notches in the top edge of the longer pieces using a jigsaw. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the frame on the bed frame, then secure to the 2x2 framing pieces and 2x4 support pieces using countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the slats. Space them approximately 1” apart, then secure using countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
19
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Buffet! This starts another amazing collection of pieces that I am totally smitten with! The frame can be painted with metallic paint to mimic the metal base of the inspiration piece, or you can make it uniform to your finish on the rest of the piece. I just love the fact that a build is so custom to your preferences! Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 4 - 1x6 at 8'
  • 5 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2  sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 5 cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 10” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 69” – Base Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 7” – Supports
  • 6 – 2x2 at 15” – Base Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 72” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 23-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/2” x 70-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 23-1/2” – Dividers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 70-1/2” - Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 23” – Drawer Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/8” x 23” – Shelves
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x6 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x6 at 22” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-5/16” x 22-3/4” – Upper & Middle Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/16” x 22-3/4” – Lower Drawer Front
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” – Door Rails
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” – Door Stiles
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 15-1/4” x 17-3/4” – Door Panels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the base frame, supports, and the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame and support pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

If using edge banding, it will be applied before assembly.

Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure to the top of the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each shorter end. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the dividers and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes as shown noting that there will be a left and a right piece (this way the pocket holes are hidden inside the drawer bank). Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the underside.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 9
Step 9
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions then make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts noting that the bottom drawer front is taller. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Step 10
Step 10
Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the door frames and panels. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Insert into the frame and secure using 1” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
16
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Parquetry End Table! Last week we brought you Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Parquetry Dresser and now the coordinating end table, yahoo! We still have one more piece in this collection and it's perhaps the most exciting yet! Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 Half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • ¼” plywood or lattice strips measuring 1-1/2” wide – approximately 2 – 8’ strips
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • ½” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1 set of 14” drawer slides
  • One drawer pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 1x2 at 18-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16-13/16” – Aprons
  • 2 – 1x2 at 13-3/8” – Aprons
  • 2 – 1x2 at 26” – Lower Bracing
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 18-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 15” – Drawer Frame Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 20” – Drawer Frame Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 20” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 16” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x4 at 12-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 17-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 6-1/4” x 20” – Drawer Front Base
  • Strips of ¼” plywood or lattice strips at 1-1/2” x 6” to 8” long (your choice!)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper using a jigsaw or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Cut the pieces for the aprons and cut 45 degree miters in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The inside face o the legs will be flush with the inside face of the aprons.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the cross braces. The pieces are cut extra long so that the angle can be cut to fit the legs. Because the bracing will cross to create a rectangle, the notches will have to be cut at an angle (see drawing). In other words, the notch will not be perpendicular to the board. Mark the center of the board on one end face. Draw a mark 3/8” on either side of the center mark. Use a square to draw the notch at a 13 degree angle, ¾” deep. Cut with a hacksaw or a jigsaw.

The bracing will be positioned on the legs 4” up from the floor. Assemble the bracing in an “X” and clamp to the legs to draw the angle for the cut. Cut using a jigsaw or miter saw, then drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the leg frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the drawer frame sides and back. Drill pocket holes in one shorter end of the sides. Secure to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the frame to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the drawer slides to the inside of the frame. This will make them easier to install before the top is attached.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the piece for the top and secure to the drawer frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the drawer. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Install the drawer-side drawer slides and make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the drawer front base, as well as the trim pieces. There is no cut list or number of pieces listed. Most of the pieces will be attached to the drawer front as-is, but several will have to be cut to fit. Start by positioning the first piece at the bottom center of the drawer front base at a 45 degree angle as shown. Secure in place using glue and ½” brad nails.

Position the next piece perpendicular to the start piece as shown. Secure using glue and ½” brad nails. Once these two pieces have been positioned, the rest of the pieces can be added, cutting and trimming as necessary.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Mark the position for the drawer pull and drill the holes. Position the drawer front as shown then drive a screw through each hole into the drawer box behind it. Open the drawer, then secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes in the front and finish drilling the holes for the drawer pull. Install the drawer pull.
For an easy tutorial, click here.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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