Monster Mash Room

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image

I made a cute little valentine for my Monster Mash Boy. Simple and Inexpensive, the very best kind of craft, no? When I showed it to him, he was irritated with me for having used his special sticky note paper. The stuff he likes to use for clues to the treasure hunt he is constantly staging around the house. Oh well. I can see his point. Still, it's cute for a short bit and doesn't have an expiration date of the impending heart shaped holiday... nope it can stay for as long as he will leave it. I'm guessing 48 hours tops... 

What about you? Any quick and simple valentine decor around your homes? Or perhaps VDay decor that doesn't need to come down when the holiday comes to a close?

Psst... I would love your support and a vote in the final round of The Homies.... Homie! Pretty Pretty Please... it means a lot to this little bloggy poo! It you don't already have an account at Apartment Therapy you will need to register but it only takes like 3 seconds and you can immediately pop over to the voting page (Best Home Project & DIY Blog) and click The Design Confidential. Seriously it's so easy and fast and means so very very much to us and the success of this site. Pretty Please

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image

This is happening..... yahoo! Someone is getting a room makeover and I'll give you a clue: his name starts with Monster and ends with Mash! The last update I gave you all for this space still included his Low Loft Bunk, and was back when his room was being updated with his new Industrial Cart Bed which you can see below. Needless to say he was sad to see those go. BUT on the brightside, both those items are getting a whole new purpose in life and one will be in an entirely new location and I can't wait to share all the deets with you guys! 

There are quite a few projects yet to be done in here, but it will likely take me 2 years to finish things so I will give you a list of the resources you see here so far... Some are built and some are made.

Source List:

Psst... I would love your support and a vote in the final round of The Homies....Homie! Pretty Pretty Please... it means a lot to this little bloggy poo!

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image
Project Details

This project was so simple and has had such a big impact on my Monster Mash boy's room, that I am kind of wanting to make a few more for other areas of my home. Such a fun build and doesn't require any special skills or prior experience whatsoever... nope, nothing but a couple of basic tools, some glue, and a bit of patience to get this project finished! Many of you have seen similar items for sale for nearly $1000, so the savings on this piece is quite substantial, and the style it brings to your space is out of this world!

I am linking this project up to the Pinterest Challenge: Winter Edition from Young House Love, Bower Power, The Remodeled Life, and Decor and The Dog! Woot Woot... I love this because it forces me to get my bones to work on something, yahoo! Here is one of the many pins you might find for this project's inspiration... and another here. LOVE this guy... or gal...whatever!

photo winter-challenge_zpsac3d2e35.jpg

Thank you to 3MDIY.com for sponsoring this post and project! I hope you enjoy...I have included a full video tutorial, complete with enourmous baby bump (filmed the week before I delivered the bird)! So, for those of you who are curious, I hope you will take a peak (and not judge me to harshly for my largeness!).

Free DIY Plans and Step by Step Video Tutorial on How To Make a Modern Tree Shaped Bookshelf
Estimated Cost

$100-$200

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Jig Saw
  • Drill
  • Sander
  • Clamps
  • Safety Gear
Lumber
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - Cut to desired shape for template
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Sketch your tree shape onto a sheet of plywood. There are 3 possible ways to accomplish this, the easiest way to do this is to use a projector and project the image in full size onto your plywood. If a projector is not something you happen to own, there are two other method below for transfering your image. 

1. PosteRazor: this will turn your image into a poster by printing a series of pages that will make the whole image in the size you want. 

  • Save the image below (right click and save to your computer).
  • Download the software
  • Print at 4'x6' or as close as you can get.
  • Cut out the shapes for each page and trace. Easy Peasy.

2. Grid Transfer Method

  • Print the image below (right click and save to your computer, then print) in 8x10 format.
  • Divide your image into a grid as you see in the diagram for this step. You will need 4 equal squares for the width of the tree (sized at 2" each) and 6 equal squares for the height of the tree (sized at 1.67" or 1 2/3" each). 
  • Create this same grid on your sheet of plywood with an overall size of 4'x6' and each square measuring at 12"x12".
  • Sketch the image onto plywood, one square at a time. This is much easier than attempting to free hand the image and will result in a more accurate depiction. If you need to mark up the squares themselves (to mark off and note midpoints etc) to help you along, that is perfectly fabulous.
Step 1
Step 2

Once you have your image sketched out, use your jig saw to cut out your tree. Please watch the video for complete instructions and details along with tips and tricks for completing this project!

Step 3

Use your first tree shape to trace your shape onto the remaining sheets of plywood and cut out exactly as you did the first.  

Step 3
Step 4

Once your trees are all cut out, glue them together by placing glue between each layer and clamping along the outside edges. Allow your glue to set up for about 30 minutes. Sand and Finish as desired.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
3M TEKK Protection
This post is brought to you in partnership with 3M DIY. Learn how to work smart and be prepared at 3MDIY.com.

Content and/or other value provided by our partner, 3M DIY.

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image
Project Details

The twin sized version of this bed has been such a hit! And I am so glad because I absolutely love the loft bunk I built for my boy... and while I shared plans for a twin sized low loft bed (it's most common for a loft bed) I actually built mine in a toddler size (I wasn't ready to move up in mattress size in Monster Mash's tiny room). So now, you have asked and I shall comply... Plans for the Toddler Size that I ACUTALLY built! 

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander 
  • Saw
  • Drill
Lumber
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 10' Fence Posts - untreated
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 8'
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 8'
  • 4 - 1x4 @ 8'
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 6'
Materials
  • Qty 8 - 5/16" Carriage Bolts at 7" length
  • Qty 8 - Washers
  • Qty 8 - Nuts
  • Qty 8 - Nuts with rounded covers
  • 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
  • 3" Screws
  • 2" Screws
  • 1 1/4" Screws
  • Wood Filler'
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 @ 54" (Legs)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 54" (Front and Back Rails)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 31" (Side Rails)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 54" (Upper Back Rails)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 31" (Upper Side Rails)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 23 1/2" (Front Guard Rail)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 35" (Front Upper Rails)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 60" (Ladder Rails)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 14" (Ladder Rungs)
  • 7 - 1x4 @ 28" (Slats)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 54" (Cleats)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the Legs to size and attach the Cleat to the Front and Back Rails using 2" Screws.

To attach the Rails to the Legs you will arrange the 4 pieces as shown in the diagram below, making sure to leave 1 1/2" on either side of the Rails to allow for the Side Rails later, and clamp together making sure everything is completely square before you proceed. Once square and aligned as needed, you will use a 7/16" Drill Bit and drill through all 3 pieces on each side, creating 2 holes on either side for the bolts.

Fasten with your Carriage Bolts and tighten.

Step 1
Step 2

Attach the Side Rails to the Front and Back Rails then fasten the Upper Back Rails to the Back Legs. Use 3" Screws

Step 2
Step 3

Attach the Front Vertical Guard Rail, use 2" Screws. Then fasten the Front Upper Rails to it and the Front left or right Leg. Use 3" Screws to attach to the Leg.

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the Upper Side Rails on the side opposite where you choose to put the ladder, in my example this would be the left side. Use 3" Screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Lay your Slats approximately 4" apart. Be sure the 2 on the outside edges are flush in both corners. Screw down using 1 1/4" Screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Attach the remaining 2 upper Side Rails to the Back Rails and then either use a Pocket hole System (Kreg Jig) to create pocket holes and fasten to the front leg. If you don't own a Kreg Jig you can also countersink and predrill at an angle from the outside edge into the leg. Use 3" Screws

Step 6
Step 7

Create the Ladder. I give approximate dimensions for the height below, but the important aspect to focus on is the angle you will cut the top and bottom. The top of the ladder rails will be at a 75°angle and the bottom of the rails will be a 15°angle where the boards will rest on the ground.

Attach the rungs at approximately 8" apart (this will depend on the age of your kiddo, the smaller and younger, the closer together these should be, you need to consider how easy it will be for them to climb down) and parallel to the ground. Use 3" Screws to fasten the rungs to the rails and to fasten the rails to the Leg and Front Guard Rail. I suggest cutting away the point you will create at the very top, when you cut the 75°angle, for added safety. This will also give your ladder a bit of a hand grip up top.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! 

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image
Project Details

We covered the toddler sized Industrial Cart Bed, and now I bring you the Twin sized version!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Tools
  • Safety Gear
  • Tape Measure
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig - optional and not neccessary if you want your hardware to show
  • Saw 
Lumber
  • 3 - 1x6 at 8' (have them cut this in half for you before you leave, it will transport more easily)
  • 5 - 1x4 at 8'
Materials
  • 2" wood screws
  • **1 1/4" pocket hole screws - only if you are using a Kreg Jig for the slats
  • 3/4" self tapping screws
  • 2 - 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" 90 degree metal edging at 6'
  • 2 - 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" 90 degree metal edging at 4'
  • 4 - 4" locking swivel casters
Cut List
  • 2 - 1x6 at 41 1/2" Head and Foot
  • 2 - 1x6 at 76" Sides
  • 10 - 1x4 at 40" Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build your box. I chose to use wood screws and countersink because I felt like it added to the industrial feel this bed is going for. The next step has an example of what a countersink bit will do for you!

Step 1
Step 2

Add the Bed Slats: you can attach using 2" wood screws and glue by countersinking them (you can see an example of this below), or you can use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. They should be spaced around 5" apart or so. Be sure to place the top most and bottom most slat right up against the Head and Foot Board of this bed so you can easily attach the casters later. 

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Attach the Metal Edging (I have no idea what this stuff is actually called, but you can find it at your local home improvement store and it's L shaped and 90 degrees) using your 3/4" self tapping screws. You won't be able to countersink and predrill if you are screwing in tight and close to the edge of one of the holes. Your goal is to alternated which side of the hole you screw into and you are trying to overlap the screw head to it holds the edging in place. You can see a picture of this below. I have used 4 screws on the longer pieces and 3 on the shorter and alternated which side of the hole the screw is placed on so your edging can't slide in one direction or the other.Center each metal piece on it's respective side. 

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Attach the Casters: use the same 3/4" self tapping scrws and overlap your screw heads to the caster plate in an alternating pattern just as you did in the previous step. They should sit in each corner. Mine required fastening in a horizontal manner to fit the caster plate properly, but since the casters swivel this isn't important. 

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

This post brought to you by RD Castings

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by RyTurner / The DIY Club
Project Image

I decided to bring a bit of nature into my boy's room. He adores animals, birds, fish, and anything living, so he loves being able to have these fine feathered friends around while he snoozes! Head on over to The DIY Club to see the installation process! See you soon...

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image

Aside from the Low Loft Bunk I built for Monster Mash, This desk has been the best thing that ever happened to MY FEET! And of course by 'my feet' I loving refer to the fact that it's the perfect storage cubby containment for those deadly leggos and other terribly painful things like train tracks! Yes deadly and terribly painful...any of you with toddlers and kids who adore leggos, small cars, train tracks and other tiny, sharp, little things know exactly what I mean! eek!

I began this build with the intention of making the Ann Marie Storage Cubby Shelves, and since I didn't have a car that could carry a whole sheet of MDF...I had my local Home Depot cut my sheet down into the appropriate measurements.

Of course they did a mediocre job on my cuts...after the grumpy gentlemen argued with me for 5 minutes about how all of the cuts couldn't possibly fit on one sheet. Of course they could...and no I didn't need him to shave off a 1/4" here and a 1/4" there, thank you very much! Ugg...so back to the drawing board where I determined that my mis-measured (and mis-cut)pieces could be cut down and modified (even further) into the Desk! yay...and truly it was a happy accident because the desk gives MM a fabulous place to play with all of the toys we have stuffed into it!

Built From These Plans: 
Free Woodworking Plans to Build an Ann Marie Toddler Storage Cubby Desk
Estimated Cost: 

About $25 since I already had paint and some of the trim pieces.

Lumber Used: 

I used 3/4" MDF for the Entire unit with 2x3 legs and 1x2 mdf trim pieces with the exception of one 1x3 trim piece on the top trim of the cubbies.

Finishing Technique: 

I used Rustoleum Stone Gray (I think) in High Gloss to create a durable washable surface and make it easy to get into all of the nooks and crannies on this piece. Spray Paint was definitely the way to go for me since I get a bit lazy sometimes and for me lazy = sloppy and drippy, so this was really best for everyone!

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image

I've been building, building, and more building!  I should warn you that building is hard work.  It's fun and so completely satisfying...but between the building and the painting even my fingernails are sore.  Mainly from the painting, since I decided I really don't enjoy painting, and that spray paint might be the way to go...boy was I wrong!  Oh is it ever hard work spray painting, and you know...it actually takes longer to a certain extent.  Have I ever mentioned to you how impossible it is to get good coverage fast without creating drips...yes...almost impossible, for someone with my lack of patience. So, first up on the list of "recently checked off the to-do list" items is a fabulous low toddler activity table, for my monster mash of a boy.  Plans are here, and I am about to adjust them slightly since I was able to make it less expensively, and didn't lose any of the stability or sturdiness.  Mine is without the casters, since he is not quite ready for that in my opinion, and only has 2 cubbies since I was quite literally using scraps to build this (limited my options a tad).  The table top surface is a tad smaller as well (again limited by scrap remnants) but I am oh so happy with the result and so is my Mr. Blakey!

Built From These Plans: 
Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Low Rolling Activity Table
Length of Time: 

Did I mention this took me less than an hour to throw together, and an extra 30 minutes for paint?  Yes well, if you look closely you can tell that I did this at 8:30 at night, and the lighting wasn't great, and neither was my level of effort or precision...but Blake can't tell, in fact he couldn't love it more if he tried and moved himself right on in!

Lumber Used: 

To be honest, the cuts on this aren't straight, thanks to some mistakes my nearest Orange made on the measurements I gave them for the Storage Cubbies I was originally planning on building.  In fact they were so bad that I scrapped the whole plan, so to speak, and built this instead...so you can see in the image above that some of the boards don't line up perfectly and that I didn't even bother to sand or fix them.  

I think my actual dimensions ended up right around 2.5 x 3' for the surface and it still fits his race track, not to mention his entire body just fine!  My house is small and I feel like this coincidence actually worked out nicely.

 

Additional Project Details: 

Below is another photo so you can see how it sits in the room where it lives! Perfectly underneath the Low Loft Bunk!

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