Apr
18
2014

I had the distinct pleasure of partnering with Bing to completely overhaul Blakey's room and give him an updated space. One that suits us both a bit better than his last room did. I have been working around the clock for what seems like years... But, of course it hasn't been years, only weeks, and I am so excited to share it with you guys today! It has been quite the rollercoaster of experiences and is one of the reasons for my absence lately and I am glad to finally have something to show for it! Feels amazing...

My sweet adorable, sometimes demon seed 6 year old gave me quite a few 'rules' to work around for this project. The first being, no baby stuff. Of course, he is still quite attached to many of his younger memories so his shelves that are up high are for exactly those things that he doesn't play with but wants to keep around to remember. I was required to use a very particular blue, he wanted plants 'like I have', comfy pillows, and given his age he has needs that are pretty tricky since he is still small yet isn't small, if you folks with 6 year olds out there know what I mean. He doesn't quite need a desk yet, but he will so he is kind of in between larger furniture pieces and smaller stuff that still suits his comfort level so I made sure to mix the two for now till we are fully transitioned into the land of the big. Besides, the Bird loves to hang in brother's room so having the smaller chairs in there is perfect for him as well. For my own needs, I need to not see all the stuff he plays with, or his clothes. So the bins I found are precisely for my non-viewing pleasure, and they look good too. Don't you love a good set of storage bins? I have 2 cute sets in this space, and I will share all of the details in the next day or so! A night light was also important so that I don't end up with 12 legs in my own bed. Honestly I don't think there are actually 12 legs crammed in my bed, who really knows...but it feels that way in the middle of the night and as a mom you lose count after the first set comes crawling in for the 2nd (or 3rd) time, don't you? Ugh. Pretty was also on his list and I'm pretty sure 'cool' was thrown in there somewhere too... right along side 'some shiny stuff' and, 'don't make it look dumb'.

As if... don't they know by now? 

What do you think? You guys!!! I am so excited about this room. It challenged me in so many ways I can't even tell you. I planned, and pinned, and researched for the best deals online. I made a several of the projects for this space and I hunted for the perfect inspiration for the wall treatment (and then redid that sucker about 89 times). I surfed craiglist, and stalked a few people until they sold me their goods whether they wanted to or not and I earned a mighty sum of Bing Rewards in a very short amount of time. They now have an app, which is perfect for me since I do a lot of surfing of those interwebs from my phone. You know, while I am doing other tasks like feeding the baby or riding in the car, so in just a few weeks I racked up enough points on just this project to earn myself Silver status! Yahoo, and now I shall be able to redeem those points for gift cards to Amazon (yahoo), Starbuck's (yahoo), Sephora (if I ever left the house other than to run to Home Depot this might be nice). I shop from Amazon so much for projects so this is a perfect marriage of work and reward for me! Like truly madly deeply, love! 

You can sign up for Bing Rewards and earn your own points every time you search or just for jumping on the internet, even for playing along in a fun little game or learning a fun fact, which is cool. You don't have to do anything but sign up. No cost, no effort, just their way of saying thank you for using Bing. And that my friends is pretty cool! 

I am awfully grateful to them for sponsoring this project and grateful to you for sharing in this project with me. It almost killed me here this last week trying to get it done before I leave, so it feels amazing to see if virtually completed. I hope you like it, and share it, and sign up and earn some coffee... on me... actually on Bing (I'm just the pretty room behind the big cool brand!) #BingRewards is where it's at my friends

Note

This post was created in partnership with Bing.

 

 

Feb
12
2013
Project Image

I made a cute little valentine for my Monster Mash Boy. Simple and Inexpensive, the very best kind of craft, no? When I showed it to him, he was irritated with me for having used his special sticky note paper. The stuff he likes to use for clues to the treasure hunt he is constantly staging around the house. Oh well. I can see his point. Still, it's cute for a short bit and doesn't have an expiration date of the impending heart shaped holiday... nope it can stay for as long as he will leave it. I'm guessing 48 hours tops... 

Celebrate 
Kiddos 
Feb
09
2013
Project Image

This is happening..... yahoo! Someone is getting a room makeover and I'll give you a clue: his name starts with Monster and ends with Mash! The last update I gave you all for this space still included his Low Loft Bunk, and was back when his room was being updated with his new Industrial Cart Bed which you can see below.

Kiddos 
Nov
06
2012
Project Details

This project was so simple and has had such a big impact on my Monster Mash boy's room, that I am kind of wanting to make a few more for other areas of my home. Such a fun build and doesn't require any special skills or prior experience whatsoever... nope, nothing but a couple of basic tools, some glue, and a bit of patience to get this project finished!

The Deets
Estimated Cost

$100-$200

Dimensions
Tools
  • Jig Saw
  • Drill
  • Sander
  • Clamps
  • Safety Gear
Lumber
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - Cut to desired shape for template
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Sketch your tree shape onto a sheet of plywood. There are 3 possible ways to accomplish this, the easiest way to do this is to use a projector and project the image in full size onto your plywood. If a projector is not something you happen to own, there are two other method below for transfering your image. 

1. Download This Template: this will turn your image into a poster by printing a series of pages that will make the whole image in the size you want. 

  • Save the template to your computer.
  • Print the template in Portrait Orientation. I have made this black and white with the least amount of ink necessary. This will print out 56 pages so be aware of the paper 'cost'. Many of those pages will be blank and you can simply put them back in your printer and use again. 
  • Lay out the pages on your Plywood. They should print in order from left to right with only a slight overlap for each page. Your overal shape will be 4 feet by 6 feet. Once you have all of your pages laid out properly, tape together the pages you actually need and cut out the shape. Then simply trace around it and you are ready to cut out your first tree panel! 

2. Grid Transfer Method

  • Print the image below (right click and save to your computer, then print) in 8x10 format.
  • Divide your image into a grid as you see in the diagram for this step. You will need 4 equal squares for the width of the tree (sized at 2" each) and 6 equal squares for the height of the tree (sized at 1.67" or 1 2/3" each). 
  • Create this same grid on your sheet of plywood with an overall size of 4'x6' and each square measuring at 12"x12".
  • Sketch the image onto plywood, one square at a time. This is much easier than attempting to free hand the image and will result in a more accurate depiction. If you need to mark up the squares themselves (to mark off and note midpoints etc) to help you along, that is perfectly fabulous.
Step 2

Once you have your image sketched out, use your jig saw to cut out your tree. Please watch the video to get an idea about how this comes together!

Step 3

Use your first tree shape to trace your shape onto the remaining sheets of plywood and cut out exactly as you did the first.  

Step 4

Once your trees are all cut out, glue them together by placing glue between each layer and clamping along the outside edges. Allow your glue to set up for about 30 minutes. Sand and Finish as desired.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

3M TEKK Protection

This post is brought to you in partnership with 3M DIY. Learn how to work smart and be prepared at 3MDIY.com. Content and/or other value provided by our partner, 3M DIY.

DIY 
Kiddos 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Mar
26
2012
Project Image
Project Details

The twin sized version of this bed has been such a hit! And I am so glad because I absolutely love the loft bunk I built for my boy... and while I shared plans for a twin sized low loft bed (it's most common for a loft bed) I actually built mine in a toddler size (I wasn't ready to move up in mattress size in Monster Mash's tiny room). So now, you have asked and I shall comply...

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander 
  • Saw
  • Drill
Lumber
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 10' Fence Posts - untreated
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 8'
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 8'
  • 4 - 1x4 @ 8'
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 6'
Materials
  • Qty 8 - 5/16" Carriage Bolts at 7" length
  • Qty 8 - Washers
  • Qty 8 - Nuts
  • Qty 8 - Nuts with rounded covers
  • 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
  • 3" Screws
  • 2" Screws
  • 1 1/4" Screws
  • Wood Filler'
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 @ 54" (Legs)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 54" (Front and Back Rails)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 31" (Side Rails)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 54" (Upper Back Rails)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 31" (Upper Side Rails)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 23 1/2" (Front Guard Rail)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 35" (Front Upper Rails)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 60" (Ladder Rails)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 14" (Ladder Rungs)
  • 7 - 1x4 @ 28" (Slats)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 54" (Cleats)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the Legs to size and attach the Cleat to the Front and Back Rails using 2" Screws.

To attach the Rails to the Legs you will arrange the 4 pieces as shown in the diagram below, making sure to leave 1 1/2" on either side of the Rails to allow for the Side Rails later, and clamp together making sure everything is completely square before you proceed. Once square and aligned as needed, you will use a 7/16" Drill Bit and drill through all 3 pieces on each side, creating 2 holes on either side for the bolts.

Fasten with your Carriage Bolts and tighten.

Step 1
Step 2

Attach the Side Rails to the Front and Back Rails then fasten the Upper Back Rails to the Back Legs. Use 3" Screws

Step 2
Step 3

Attach the Front Vertical Guard Rail, use 2" Screws. Then fasten the Front Upper Rails to it and the Front left or right Leg. Use 3" Screws to attach to the Leg.

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the Upper Side Rails on the side opposite where you choose to put the ladder, in my example this would be the left side. Use 3" Screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Lay your Slats approximately 4" apart. Be sure the 2 on the outside edges are flush in both corners. Screw down using 1 1/4" Screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Attach the remaining 2 upper Side Rails to the Back Rails and then either use a Pocket hole System (Kreg Jig) to create pocket holes and fasten to the front leg. If you don't own a Kreg Jig you can also countersink and predrill at an angle from the outside edge into the leg. Use 3" Screws

Step 6
Step 7

Create the Ladder. I give approximate dimensions for the height below, but the important aspect to focus on is the angle you will cut the top and bottom. The top of the ladder rails will be at a 75°angle and the bottom of the rails will be a 15°angle where the boards will rest on the ground.

Attach the rungs at approximately 8" apart (this will depend on the age of your kiddo, the smaller and younger, the closer together these should be, you need to consider how easy it will be for them to climb down) and parallel to the ground. Use 3" Screws to fasten the rungs to the rails and to fasten the rails to the Leg and Front Guard Rail. I suggest cutting away the point you will create at the very top, when you cut the 75°angle, for added safety. This will also give your ladder a bit of a hand grip up top.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

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Kiddos 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
13
2012
Project Image
Project Details

We covered the toddler sized Industrial Cart Bed, and now I bring you the Twin sized version!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Tools
  • Safety Gear
  • Tape Measure
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig - optional and not neccessary if you want your hardware to show
  • Saw 
Lumber
  • 3 - 1x6 at 8' (have them cut this in half for you before you leave, it will transport more easily)
  • 5 - 1x4 at 8'
Materials
  • 2" wood screws
  • **1 1/4" pocket hole screws - only if you are using a Kreg Jig for the slats
  • 3/4" self tapping screws
  • 2 - 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" 90 degree metal edging at 6'
  • 2 - 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" 90 degree metal edging at 4'
  • 4 - 4" locking swivel casters
Cut List
  • 2 - 1x6 at 41 1/2" Head and Foot
  • 2 - 1x6 at 76" Sides
  • 10 - 1x4 at 40" Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build your box. I chose to use wood screws and countersink because I felt like it added to the industrial feel this bed is going for. The next step has an example of what a countersink bit will do for you!

Step 1
Step 2

Add the Bed Slats: you can attach using 2" wood screws and glue by countersinking them (you can see an example of this below), or you can use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. They should be spaced around 5" apart or so. Be sure to place the top most and bottom most slat right up against the Head and Foot Board of this bed so you can easily attach the casters later. 

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Attach the Metal Edging (I have no idea what this stuff is actually called, but you can find it at your local home improvement store and it's L shaped and 90 degrees) using your 3/4" self tapping screws. You won't be able to countersink and predrill if you are screwing in tight and close to the edge of one of the holes. Your goal is to alternated which side of the hole you screw into and you are trying to overlap the screw head to it holds the edging in place. You can see a picture of this below. I have used 4 screws on the longer pieces and 3 on the shorter and alternated which side of the hole the screw is placed on so your edging can't slide in one direction or the other.Center each metal piece on it's respective side. 

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Attach the Casters: use the same 3/4" self tapping scrws and overlap your screw heads to the caster plate in an alternating pattern just as you did in the previous step. They should sit in each corner. Mine required fastening in a horizontal manner to fit the caster plate properly, but since the casters swivel this isn't important. 

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

This post brought to you by RD Castings

Kiddos 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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