Apr
16
2014
Project Details

A gorgeous dresser for all of your storage needs! Dress this beauty up, add detailing or leave it simple and modern as it currently is! I love that it's entirely up to you! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$150-$200

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 3 – 1x2 at 8’ OR
  • Cut all of the 1x2 strips from the plywood so that the species of the wood matches
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 66-1/2” - Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 31-1/2” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 30-3/4” x 66-1/2” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 30-3/4” - Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 64” - Base
  • 3 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” - Base
  • 4 – 1x2 at 32-7/8” - Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 68” - Top
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 30-3/8” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 12 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 12 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 31-7/8” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 8 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/16” x 33-15/16” – Drawer Front Slats
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-7/16” x 33-15/16” – Drawer Front Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom. Secure the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position the back inside the sides, resting on the bottom, and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in the back and bottom edges. Secure to the back and bottom of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the base. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Also drill pocket holes along the long edges of each piece. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the base frame on the bottom as indicated in the drawing. Secure to the base using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides and divider as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the back, and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and divider.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them flush with the front of the sides and divider. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. The top and bottom slat pieces are wider than the center slat pieces (see the drawing). The top slats will be flush with the top edge of the dresser, all slats will be flush with the sides. There will be a 1/8” gap between the slats as well as at the center. Starting with the top slats, secure to the drawer box using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Space the remaining slats, then secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails working your way down.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post Contains Affiliate Links

Apr
15
2014

These are the tables I made from the plans on your website. I also made this table I posted here. I am planning on building the entertainment center as well, even though I just built one of my own design.

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 
Length of Time 
Modifications 

On the end tables I changed the way the door opened. Instead of having the door stop before it reached the other side of the table (which left a gap) I had the boards continue all the way and interlace with the other side.  Just like the hinge side.  Also I installed a extra row of 2" spacers to the side of the table to act like a stopper for the door.

Lumber Used 

Made of 3/4" pine plywood, ripped down.

Finishing Technique 
Additional Project Details 
Note
Apr
14
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this gorgeous dining table is both modern and elegant but perhaps best of all, an easy build! I love an easy build, especially these days! I am so excited to show you what I have been working on... If you haven't caught any blurbs so far, there is an update to this post with some important details and I hope some of you will jump on board! It's time to grow the team and make things better here at TDC. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x8 at 6’
  • 3 – 2x8 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’ - Top
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’ - Top
  • 3 – 2x8 at 8’ - Top
  • 4 – 2x3 at 40-1/2” – Top Supports
  • 10 – 2x2 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x6 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x8 at 28-1/2” - Legs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the top and the top supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes along the long edges of each 2x3 support. Working on a flat surface, position each of the boards for the top as shown.  Place the 2x3 supports as shown (with the pocket holes facing each other so that pocket hole screws can be inserted to secure the legs), then secure to each board using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws. 

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Drill pocket holes in the 2x6 and 2x8 pieces as shown. Secure the wider 2x material to the 2x2 pieces ash shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Place the each of the leg assemblies between a pair of the 2x3 supports and secure using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue as the table may have to be taken apart to move it!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post may contain affiliate links

Apr
09
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, I'm thinking this very smart reader is obviously one step ahead of me and perhaps this should be a build in my very near future as well! Especially with the week I have had, eek! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x2 at 23” – Base Frame Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 18-1/2” – Base Frame Sides
  • 3 – 2x2 at 50” – Base Frame Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 51-1/2” - Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 27-1/2” - Sides
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 2-3/4” x 20” – Shelf Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 51-1/2” – Shelf
  • 1 – 1x4 at 53” – Front Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 26-3/4” x 51-1/2” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 53” - Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 23-1/4” - Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 14-1/4” – Cubby Shelf
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 21-13/16” – Wine Caddy
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 12-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/8” x 11-3/4” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/8” x 14” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/8” x 14-7/8” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Door Caddy Bottom
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 7-1/4” – Door Caddy Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Door Caddy Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 24-5/8” x 26-7/16” - Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as the stretchers. Secure the side pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Secure the stretchers to the legs and lower side pieces using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face down and won’t have to be filled.

Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the sides and back on the base so that the back and side edges are flush – it will be located ¾” back from the front of the base. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the shelf supports and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece. Secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The supports are flush with the front edge of the bottom which makes them ¾” short to allow for the back.

Cut the piece for the shelf. Position the shelf on the supports then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The shelf will be flush with the front edge of the supports.

Cut the piece for the lower front trim. Secure to the front of the sides and the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Add a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the shelf supports and the shelf.

Step 5

 Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the divider. Position in the cabinet as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top and back.

Cut the piece for the cubby shelf. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the wine caddy (the X). Cut a 49° bevel in the top edge, and a 40° bevel in the bottom. Cut the notch using a jigsaw. Slide the pieces together making sure the bevels face as shown in the drawing, and insert the caddy into the cubby. The caddy will rest inside the opening and can be secured in place using 1-1/4” brad nails, if desired.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The drawer front will overlap on the right side (if facing the front) by 7/8” to overlap the divider. 

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the door caddy. Drill pocket holes in the back edge of the bottom as well as one end of the sides. The pocket holes will allow the door caddy to be secured to the door. Assemble the caddies using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the doors. Position the door caddies on each door noting that there will be a right and a left. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 10

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap at the sides, top, and bottom of the doors, as well as in between them. Install the magnetic catches according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Apr
04
2014
Project Details

A good sideboard slash buffet slash console slash media cabinet slash thing to put things on and in is hard to find without spending approximately one bajillion dollars. These are the perfect builds to tackle if saving cash is your thing (totally my thing since I'm always dirt poor). Yes installing drawers is a pain in the neck, but there are only three and aside from those bad boys, it's really just a carcass, or a box, if you prefer to call it something a bit less macabre, which clearly I don't, Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$150-$200

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood

Optional (if you’d rather not cut these pieces from the plywood):

  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x6 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 6 – 2x2 at 8” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 19” – Side Stretchers
  • 8 – 1x2 at 14” – Angled Leg Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x2 at 65” – Base Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/4” x 66-1/2” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-1/4” x 66-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 22” x 25-1/4” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Dividers
  • 2 – 1x2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 24-1/2” – Divider Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 20-3/4” – Front Stretchers
  • 3 – 1x2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 22” – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 21-1/2” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-3/4” x 68” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 22-3/4” – Door Base
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x6 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 18-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x6 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 21” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 22-1/4” – False Drawer Fronts (Doors)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 22-1/4” – False Drawer Fronts (Doors)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/4” x 22-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 22-3/4” plywood – Lower Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face down and won’t have to be filled.

Cut the pieces for the angled stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one end only of each piece. Cut a 45 degree angle in the opposite end. Position the stretchers on the center leg, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the entire assembly to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the base stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face down and won’t have to be filled.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

If using edge banding, it will be applied before assembly.

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position the bottom so that the front edge is flush with the front edge of the base. The bottom will be shorter than the sides and back by ¾”. Secure to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Add a countersunk 2” screw through the bottom into the center leg.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown, then secure to the base using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the bottom edge. Attach to the bottom and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the back edge as well as the bottom edge. Note that there will be a left and a right so that the pocket holes are hidden in the drawer area. Position as shown (3/4” back from the front edge), then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the divider trim. Secure to the front edge of the dividers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The edge of the trim that will face the drawer area will be flush with the inside of the dividers.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the back edge and side edges.  Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, sides, stretchers, and back.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions then make any necessary adjustments.

Step 9
Step 9
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the door bases. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the opening. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet.

Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. The center drawer fronts are wider than the false drawer fronts, and the lower drawer fronts are taller than the other drawer fronts.

Install the center drawer fronts first by pre-drilling the holes for the cabinet pull. The upper drawer front will overlap the sides by 3/8”, and the top and bottom by ¼”. Install this drawer front first, then install the remaining center fronts with a ¼” gap between them. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles. Install the cabinet pulls.

The false drawer fronts will line up with the center drawer fronts and will be flush with the sides of the cabinet. Secure to the door using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Apr
01
2014

We built this last summer before we moved. You can see it with our Alcove Shelf below, where we had it at our old house. If I recall correctly, this was one of the easier things we've built. So much fun!

To browse our huge gallery of reader showcase builds click here.

drupal counter