Jul
31
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Project Details

I know you guys are going to be excited for this beauty! Today we have gorgeous new Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$50-$75
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Tools
Lumber
  • 7 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 38-3/4” – Back Legs
  • 1 – 1x4 at 24-1/2”– Front Apron
  • 2 – 1x4 at 20-3/4” – Front Legs
  • 5 – 1x4 at 24-1/2” – Bottom Seat Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 21-1/2” – Seatback Frame Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 1x4 at 28-1/2” – Seatback Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1x4 at 27” – Seatback Frame Center
  • 7 – 1x4 at 23” – Seatback Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 4-1/4” – Arm Rest Rear Supports              
  • 2 – 1x4 at 30-3/4” – Arm Rests
  • 2 – 1x4 at 3” – Arm Rest Front Supports
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out your Back Legs. You will need 2 of these exactly the same. This diagram shows you how to mark out the shape you need for the Back Legs. Use your circular saw to cut this out. If you simply connect the dots between the dimensions outlined below and use a circular saw to make these cuts, you won't have to worry about the actual angle for each corner. Prepare the Back Legs to be attached to the Front Apron by drilling pocket holes on the inside front end. The ‘front’ of your Back Legs will be the end with only 1 angled cut, and the ‘back’ will be the end with 2 angled cuts. Select a side of the Back Leg to be the ‘inside,’ and make sure that the other Back Leg is the opposite, or a mirror of the first Back Leg.

Back Leg Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 2

Cut out the Front Apron and attach as shown to the Back Legs with glue and pocket screws. When you attach the Front Apron, you will see that it is a little shy of covering the ends of the Back Legs – don’t worry, it will hardly be noticeable since this will be one amazing chair!

Front Apron for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 3

Drill a pair of pocket holes in the top end of the Front Legs (to later attach to the Arm Rests) and another pair of pocket holes approximately 8” down from the top end of each Front Leg, both on the side of the leg that faces the back of the chair. Attach the Front Legs to the Back Legs as shown with pocket screws.

Front Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 4

Attach the Bottom Slats to the Back Legs as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails. The Slats should be spaced 1/4” apart.

Bottom Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 5

Prepare the Seat back Frame pieces for assembly by screwing pocket holes in the ends of the top and bottom pieces and center piece. Assemble the Seat back Frame as shown using pocket screws.

Back Rest Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 6

Attach the Backrest slats to the Backrest Frame as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails. The Slats should be spaced 1/4” apart.

Back Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 7

Lay the entire chair on its side – it’s almost time to attach the Backrest to the chair! Measure 15” from the ends of the back legs as shown. Next, mark a 2-3/4” perpendicular line (lay down painter’s tape and mark on the tape if you do not want to mark on the wood) from this 15” measurement. Draw a 1” line parallel to the long edge of the board in the direction of the chair’s front (this line will be 3/4” from the edge of the board). Draw in the 3rd side of this triangle – you now have the angle for your Backrest – which is a comfy 110°! Repeat this process on the inside of the other Back Leg. 

Backrest Angle for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Attaching the Backrest for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 8

And now it’s time! Line up the Backrest to the Back Legs along the angles that were just drawn. Clamp the pieces together and drill 1/4” holes for the bolts. Insert the bolts and tighten with nuts.

Bolts and Nuts for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 9

Drill pocket holes in one of the 3-1/2” ends of the Arm Rest Rear Supports. Assemble the Arm Rest Rear Supports to the back of the Arm Rests with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails as shown. The Rear Supports should extend 3/4” beyond the side of the Arm Rest. 

Arm Rests for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 10

Attach the Arm Rests to the Front Legs and to the Backrest (via the Arm Rest Rear Supports) as shown with glue and pocket screws, countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails. 

Arm Rest for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Step 11

Attach the Arm Rest Front Supports to the Front Legs and Arm Rest as shown with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails. 

Front Arm Support for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Modern Adirondack Chair
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jul
28
2014
Reader Showcase // Two Toned Glossy and Reclaimed Life Sideboard

I did this project as my very first DIY. I think it turned out great considering my work space is an apartment and I only own a Circle Saw, Drill, Hammer and Screw Drivers, etc. I used reclaimed wood for the front doors (didn't get the middle to be a drawers, unfortunately). I wanted to lacquer the outside, but instead I used a super high-gloss gel paint. Really happy with the outcome.

Thank you very much for posting the plans...couldn't have done this without it

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 
Length of Time 
Modifications 
Lumber Used 
Finishing Technique 
Additional Project Details 
Side View for Reader Showcase // Two Toned Glossy and Reclaimed Life Sideboard
Note
Jul
24
2014
Reader Showcase // Kenwood Cabin Bunk Beds

Built these from plans found on The Design Confidential. Changed a few things but the plans were great! Thank you! 

Jul
23
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa
Project Details

By special reader request, and a perfect addition to the Reef Collection of pieces, today we have Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa! This can use the same cushions as our modified reef chair plans call for, only they will need to be turned sideways for this piece! Since they are virtually square, this won't matter at all. The cushion options here that will work best are the Threshold Outdoor Deep Seating Cushion which retails for $29 and one or two 18" toss pillows for the back.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 6'
  • 1 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x4 at 27 1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 28 1/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 12 1/2" – Front Legs
  • 1 – 2x4 at 24” – Top
  • 1 – 2x4 at 17" – Front Apron
  • 1 – 2x4 at 21” – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 21” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Center Seat Support
  • 3 – 1x4 at 20 1/2” – Seat Slats
  • 3 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 28 1/4” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The Front Leg will sit perpendicular to the Side Frame piece (28 1/4" piece) and flush with the outside of this piece as well so they will form a 90 degree angle. 

Sides with Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa
Step 2

Cut the piece for the top and the Front Apron. Drill pocket holes in both ends of the Front Apron using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and assemble with glue and 2 1/2” pocket hole screws. Place the Top on the legs and secure with glue and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws using the pocket holes you created in the previous step. 

Top and Front Apron for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be a 2x4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side frame piece to allow for the seat slats and flush with the bottom of the other seat support and the side frame pieces. Attach the pieces to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Seat Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the back seat support using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center seat support with 1-1/4” brad nails.

Seat Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Chair Back Slat for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa
Back Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Armless Chair for the Reef Outdoor Sectional Sofa
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jul
22
2014
Real Reader Build from The Design Confidential of the Emmerson King size bed with tufed headboard

First off let me just say how much I love the site. The directions are easy to follow and make building great furniture easy. My first project was the Emmerson King size bed.

We looked everywhere for bed that was fabric covered tufed headboard that was affordable. With no luck my husband told me about this site and I thought I would give it a shot. 

The bed building part of this project was a breeze. For the most part I built it myself and it was the first time I've taken on a project like this. Before this, I've never built anything. I did need some help from my husband moving and assembling it. 

 

In Progress Shot of Real Reader Build from The Design Confidential of the Emmerson King size bed with tufed headboard
Estimated Cost 

Let's see if I can remember. The first trip to the hardware store was about $300 but that included the Jig and that was just under $100 so wood $200 ish. Linen fabric $120 and the other misc items to complete the upholstering was another $200. The foam was the biggest cost in the other misc supplies. In the end it was under $650 but compared to the RH bed we were looking to buy we saved about $2500.

Length of Time 

The bed part didn't take long. I would say about 20 hours working at night and some time during the weekend. Keep in mind I was new to a lot of these tools and took my time learning how to use them. The tufting part took a lot longer but work work on a couple here and there until it was completed. 

Modifications 

I made a couple modifications...

First was the height of the head board. We extended the height by about 10". If you think this would make it unstable it won't. That sucker is super stable and solid. 

Second was the height of the legs. We wanted to be able to store items under the bed. I originally extended them to 15". Not sure what I was thinking -- it was way too high to climb up. The final was about 10" just a couple inches more but really made a difference. We also Routed and stained the legs with a Expresso colored stain. 

The last was covering the side boards, foot board and head board with linen fabric. 

Jul
19
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Project Details

By special reader request, these fabulous Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Dawson Large Desk and perfect for those of you who need a wide solid work surface! I can see this in so many different and gorgeous finishes and with the flip of a drawer pull, this beauty will transform from rustic to vintage and even to modern! Can't wait to see what you do! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 3 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 4x4 posts at 6’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 4x4 posts at 30-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 19-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 19-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” –Upper Side Drawer Spacers
  • 2 – 1x3 at 19-1/2” – Lower Side Drawer Spacers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 61” – Back
  • 1 – 2x4 at 61” – Lower Stretcher
  • 2 – 2x4 at 15” – Lower Drawer Frame Side
  • 2 – 2x4 at 17” – Lower Drawer Frame Bottom
  • 2 – 2x4 at 3-1/2” – Upper Drawer Dividers
  • 1 – 1x4 at 61” – Upper Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x3 at 22-1/4” – Inner Drawer Spacers
  • 2 – 2x2 at 22-1/4” – Inner Panel Frame
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 22-1/4” – Inner Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 26-1/2” x 68” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 16” – Large Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1x3 at 22-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1x3 at 16” – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x3 at 22-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 23” – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 16-3/4” – Large Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 16-3/4” – Smaller Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 23-3/4” – Center Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes on the top frame piece so they face up, and the pocket holes on the lower frame piece will face down. This way, they will be hidden and won’t have to be filled.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the panels to the legs and the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the panels will be located 1” back from the outside face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower drawer spacers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the spacers (the side with the pocket holes) will be flush with the inside of the legs.

Desk Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Desk Side Drawer Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 2

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each shorter edge. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Desk Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 3

Cut the 2x4 piece for the lower stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the lower drawer frames. Drill pocket holes in the upper end only of the 15” pieces, and both ends of the 17” pieces.  Assemble the pieces in an “L” shape (as shown) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Secure the assemblies to the legs and the lower stretcher using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Lower Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Lower Drawer Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in one end only. Secure to the top of the lower stretcher using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the 1x4 piece for the upper stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the upper stretcher into the top of the drawer dividers to further secure them in place.

Upper Drawer Dividers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Upper Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 5

 Cut the 1x4 pieces for the inner drawer spacers and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the vertical lower frame pieces and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The spacer pieces should be flush with the inside face of the vertical pieces to allow for the inner sides to be positioned.

Cut the pieces for the inner panels and 2x2 frame piece. Drill pocket holes in the top and side edges of the panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end only of the 2x2 inner frame piece.

Secure the panel to the frame piece using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panel (without pocket holes) will be flush with the outside face of the 2x2. There will be a left and a right – the pocket holes in the 2x2 pieces will face opposite directions to secure to the vertical lower drawer frame piece.

Secure the inner panel assembly to the back and the vertical lower drawer frame piece. Use glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the inner panel, and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the 2x2 frame piece. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the back end of the 2x2 frame piece. 

Inner Drawer Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Inner Panels with Pocket Holes from Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Installing Inner Panels using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the desk frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top. 

Fastening the Top in Place with a Nail Gun for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Center Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Center Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Large Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Large Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Small Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Small Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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