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Oct
21
2014

I modified the benches to make stools. They work great. The plans were very easy to follow and it looks awesome in the backyard...just in time for the winter, haha.

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

About $60 for the stools and $50-60 for the table.

Length of Time 

Approx 3 days...took me longer because I couldnt do it all at one time. :)

Modifications 
Lumber Used 

White Pine

Finishing Technique 

Thompsons Waterseal

Additional Project Details 
Note
Sep
12
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Project Details

By special reader request, this beauty was a gem to find in our plan request queue! I adore a gorgeous desk plan especially one of this variety of design! I hope you all like it too! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood at 4’ x 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood at 2’ x 4’
  • 1/2” dowel at 2’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 27-3/4” (may need to rip 2x4s down to 2-1/2”) – Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 39” – Front and Back Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 41” – Middle Stretcher
  • 2 – 1/2”x3” (may need to purchase 1/2”x4” and rip down to 2-1/2”) at 43-1/2” – Long Top Frame Pieces
  • 3 – 1/2”x3” (may need to purchase 1/2”x4” and rip down to 2-1/2”) at 14-1/2” – Short Top Frame Pieces
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 44” x 20” – Table Top
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14” x 20” – Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20” – Cabinet Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Drawer Guides
  • 1 – 1x2 at 14” – Drawer Divider
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 13-1/2” x 14” – Cabinet Back
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 17” x 3” – Top Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Top Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 2-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Top Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 4” x 13-1/2” – Top Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 17” x 8” – Bottom Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Bottom Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 7-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 8-3/4” x 13-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1/2” dowels at 5” – Top Dowels
  • 4 – 1/2” dowels at 3” – Side Dowels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the lumber for the four Legs at the appropriate length. All four Legs will be cut at an angle on the inside, but two of the legs will need holes drilled in them. Use a 1/2” spade bit to drill holes on the narrow side of the wood in two Legs. It is easier to drill these holes before cutting the wood at an angle, since a flat surface is easier to work with when drilling. Drill the holes approximately 2” deep.

Next, draw out the measurements on all four Legs and cut as shown. The tapered leg will start at 2-1/2” from the top of the Legs. 

Leg Pattern for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
How to Make the Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Front and Back Aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Front and Back Aprons Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Only attach one “drilled” leg on both the Front and the Back Apron. Make sure that the holes face the inside of the project, since 1/2” dowels will be inserted in them at a later step.

Front and Back Aprons with Pocket Hole Screws and the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Side Aprons, and drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Side Aprons using the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Side Stretchers and Middle Stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the Side Stretchers to the Legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the Middle Stretcher to the Side Stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Side Stretchers with Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Middle Stretcher using the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Long Top Frame and Short Top Frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Short Top Frame pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. Next, drill two 1/2” holes all the way through the wood as shown. These holes will receive 1/2” dowels in a later step.

Arrange Top Frame as shown with a 1/4” reveal on each edge. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut Long and Top Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Arrange Top Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 6

Cut the Table Top and secure using glue and 1” screws (screwed from the bottom). The Table Top will extend 1/4” past the Top Frame, and will be flush with the Legs and Aprons.

Table Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Sides. In only one of the Cabinet Sides, drill 1/2” holes approximately 1/4” deep, in each corner as shown.

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Top and Bottom. Drill 1/2” holes in the Cabinet Top as shown at a 1/4” depth.

Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the Top and Bottom Sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cabinet Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Cabinet Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Secure with Pocket hole screws and Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the Drawer Guides. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails (nail from the outside of the Sides). If you want to nail the Drawer Guide from the inside, do so before assembling Cabinet Box (space is limited inside the box), or simply glue and clamp until dry.

Drawer Glides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 9

Cut the piece for the Drawer Divider. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Drawer Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 10

Cut the piece for the Cabinet Back. Drill pocket holes in all sides of the Cabinet Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cabinet Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Top Drawer Sides and Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the front ends of the Top Drawer Sides and in the sides and front of the Top Drawer Bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Top Drawer Back. Drill pocket holes in the ends and bottom of the Top Drawer Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Top Drawer Front. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.  The top of the Front will extend 1/4” above the top of the Drawer and the Bottom will extend 3/4” beyond the bottom of the drawer.

Top Drawer Sides and Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Top Drawer Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Top Drawer Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Drawer Sides and Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the front ends of the Bottom Drawer Sides and in the sides and front of the Bottom Drawer Bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Bottom Drawer Back. Drill pocket holes in the ends and bottom of the Bottom Drawer Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Bottom Drawer Front. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. The top of the Front will extend 1” above the top of the Drawer and the Bottom will be 1/4” above the bottom of the drawer.

Step 13

Now on to the really fun part! Put a nice dab of glue in each drilled hole. The 5” length dowels connect the Cabinet to the Table Frame and the 3” length dowels connect the Cabinet to the Legs. The Cabinet itself should be flush with the front and back of the Desk. The Cabinet side should be 3-1/2” in from the side of the Desk. TIP: Paint the dowels a metallic color before gluing and inserting into the holes.

Desk Assembly for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
03
2014
Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet

I needed something to fill this empty space in my kitchen and the Clara Buffet was perfect! For this project, I chose to use oak, a red stain with brown and black accents, and brushed nickel hardware.

As always, thank you to TDC for the great plans and thanks for reading! Also, check out my blog post (link below) for a lot more build pictures and thoughts on each building step!

Here are images of the piece mostly assembled without the doors or drawers. As you can see, everything has already been finished to avoid tight corners. Drilling the space for the door hinges...this was nerve racking! As you can see I taped around the area to avoid any damage to the rest of the finish. This plus the flange on the hinge hid any defects. You can see the gusset  I added to the top inside edge of the side panels (see modifications section). This is what I secured the top with on the edges and it worked great.

Assembly with shelves and drawer frames added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Gusset added to top inside edge of side panels to screw down the top from the beneath for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
I bought a kit/template for drilling these holes which was a lifesaver for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

Lumber was right over $200. Hardware, drawer slides, hinges, and staining materials were probably another $150 bringing the total to $350. Still a steep discount to the original!

Length of Time 

This is hard to estimate, but I'd say 20+ hours because of all the finishing work. Actual cutting and assembly of the piece was MUCH short and could probably be done in a weekend.

Modifications 

I made a few modifications to the plans for multiple reasons:

Shelves:

First, I eliminated the top set of shelves since they really only serve to enclose the space where the drawers go. Instead I used 1x2's to mimic the front edge of where the top shelves would have been. This provided rigidity to the piece and kept the look the same. 

Second, I had to slice off 3/4" from the indicated depth for the main shelves in the plans. Reason being, the plans call for the shelves to be set back this distance so that the doors can close but all four shelf pieces are dimensioned for the entire depth of the cabinet on the cut sheet.

Legs:

The plans call for 4x4's on the legs but I chose to try and recreate the original legs as closely as possible utilizing hardwood. This was for asthetics only and the original plans could be used with no issues here.

Top Connection:

I realized during assembly that I had not predrilled vertical pocket holes in the side panels to attach the top. Fortunately I had two 3/4" wide pieces of stained/finished plywood that I had sliced off the back of the shevles. I used these as gussets on the top inside edge of the side panels to secure the top from beneath which worked great.

Lumber Used 

As mentioned before, I used oak for almost every piece in the project besides the back for which I used birch plywood, the drawer boxes which are pine, and a couple of non-visible cross braces which are also pine.

Oak is a different animal working with but I really enjoyed the results. Make sure your cordless drills have good batteries! This stuff will eat up a battery real quick!

Finishing Technique 

The finish here was not difficult, but takes time. It consisted of red gel stain, brown glaze, black glaze, and final lacquer with sanding sealer sprayed on between each step. All stains and glazes were brushed on and wiped off.

I chose to prefinish all the individual pieces before assembly to avoid difficulties with tight corners. This had advantages and disadvantages; The former being that we achieved a very uniform and professional finish on the entire piece. Disadvantages to this technique include difficulties surrounding utilization of pocket hole plugs (see my blog), needing a very large space in order to stage all the pieces while drying, and needing to be careful during assembly. 

Gel Stain Added - Kind of red right now!..Glaze to the rescue for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Weighing down the back with all the panels to get the bend out of the plywood! for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Phew that's better; Brown and Black Glazes Added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Drawers and drawer slides added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Final assembled piece with all hardware added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Final assembled piece in new space for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Aug
30
2014
Reader Showcase // Two Toned Chaise Lounge for FFA Fair DIY Outdoor Kreg Jig Project Plans from Wood using Pocket Hole Screws

I found the plans for your chaise lounge chair and I started constructing it for my FFA fair, for a project that will be judged and showcased.

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 
Length of Time 
Modifications 
Lumber Used 
Finishing Technique 
Additional Project Details 
Reader Showcase // Two Toned Chaise Lounge for FFA Fair DIY Outdoor Kreg Jig Project Plans from Wood using Pocket Hole Screws
Note
Aug
29
2014
Top 10 DIY Desk Plans + Back to School Furniture Projects

We survived the first week and a half of First Grade! I mentioned in my Back to School  Blues + Red Hot School Supplies Roundup that Blakey was nervous about starting school and being away for the entire day, every single day. He is always fine after the first 10 minutes, but his anticipation and anxiety was fairly extreme this year. I'm sure those of you who have school aged kiddos know precisely what I mean.

Top 10 DIY Desk Plans + Back to School Furniture Projects 6 - 10

From cool storage compartments to paper holders, these desks offer something special for every type of kiddo and circumstance. If you need a desk that does double duty as storage or play, then we have you covered. If you need to fit big functionality in a not so big space, maybe a pull out writing surface is just the thing... 

6 // Finn Desk 7 // Rowley Desk 8 // Blake Desk + Hutch 9 // Little Sloane Leaning Desk 10 // Carolina Craft Table

Kiddos 
Design 
DIY 
Aug
25
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Project Details

Oh this piece of DIY Furniture might be one of my absolute faves! So utterly versatile and just the coolest... lay it flat to enjoy on your front side or snooze and when you feel like it, simply put it in one of several incline positions to lounge and chat! Isn't that amazing? Check out the images at the bottom to see how this gal moves and functions! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 5 – 1x3 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 75”– Main Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 29-1/2”– Main Frame Top and Bottom
  • 5 – 1x3 at 31” – Main Frame Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 19”– Middle Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 26”– Middle Frame Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 1x4 at 2-1/2”– Middle Frame Spacers
  • 4 – 1x3 at 27-1/2”– Middle Frame Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 30-1/4”– Upper Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1x4 at 27-1/2”– Upper Frame Top
  • 5 – 1x3 at 29” – Upper Frame Slats 
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the two Main Frame Sides. Drill a 1/2” hole 29” from one end of the Side and 1-3/4” from the top. Please note that all hole measurements will be TO the center of the hole. Drill another 1/2” hole 3” from the other end of the Side. Drill a series of 4 more holes in the same manner as shown, 3” on center and 1-3/4” from the top. You can drill more than 5 holes if you wish – this will give you even more adjustment opportunities! You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. If you feel confident, clamp the Main Frame Sides together and drill both holes at once through the pieces.

Outside Frame Hole Placement for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 2

Cut out the Main Frame Top and Bottom and attach to the Main Frame Sides as shown with glue and pocket screws. 

Outside Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 3

Cut out the Main Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Main Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 4

Next, cut out the Middle Frame Sides. Drill a 1/2” hole positioned 1-1/2” from each end and 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. Or you can clamp the Middle Frame Sides together and drill both holes at once through the pieces.

Mid Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 5

Cut and attach the Middle Frame Top and Bottom to the Middle Frame Sides as shown with glue and pocket screws. 

Middle Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 6

Next, cut the Middle Frame Spacers. Drill a 1/2” hole positioned 1-1/2” from the end and 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Spacer. Or you can clamp the Spacers together and drill both holes at once through the pieces. Align Spacers with the Sides so that the drilled holes match up and the edges are flush. Attach Spacers to the Middle Frame Sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Mid Frame Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 7

Cut out the Middle Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Mid Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 8

On to the last portion of the Futon! Cut the pieces for the Upper Frame Sides. Drill two 1/2” holes – one positioned 1-3/4” from one end, and the other 1-1/4” from the other end, both 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. Or you can clamp the Sides together and drill both holes at once through both pieces.

Upper Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 9

Next, cut the Upper Frame Top and secure to the Upper Frame Sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Upper Frame Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 10

Cut out the Upper Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Upper Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 11

This is where the piece really starts to take shape! Lay out the Main Frame on a flat surface. Place the Middle Frame and Upper Frame within the Main Frame as shown. Attach the Upper Frame to the Middle Frame by aligning the drilled holes and inserting the (2) 2” clevis pins and hitch pin clips on both sides. Attach the Middle Frame to the Main Frame by aligning the drilled holes and inserting the (2) 3” clevis pins and hitch pin clips on both sides. Use the (2) 2” clevis pins and hitch pin clips to secure the Upper Frame to the Main Frame in the desired adjustment holes. Add a cushion for extra comfort! After finishing, you might find it helpful to apply a coat of paste wax to the areas of the Futon that pivot and rub against each other. Large washers may also be used for extra reinforcement at the end of the clevis pins. Lastly, use a sander on edges if you want a more rounded, softer appearance. 

Clevis Pin Assembly for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 12

Check out how versatile this piece is! It can lay flat or incline to several positions. We’ve included a few more graphics for you to see this Futon in motion.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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