Browse all Free Woodworking Plans for the Office or Craft Room

Aug
19
2014
Reader Showcase // Hendrix Large Desk

My second build from TDC!

Aug
07
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Project Details

It's time for our little to head back to school and for those who are elementary age and above, this generally means it's time to hit the books. It seems as though a desk is an ideal piece to add to your handmade DIY furniture collection and this particular beauty is mighty fine speciman. Not too traditional, not too rustic, just the right amount of clean and streamlined... that means you should have no problem with competing styles when you add this baby to your home and hardware is completely up for grabs! Gotta love a versatile piece, don't you think? Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – quarter sheet (2’ x 4’) of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 23-3/4” – Side Panels
  • 4 – 1x2 at 44” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 44” – Back Panel
  • 1 – 1x2 at 3-3/4” – Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 45” - Top
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19” – Top Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 48” – Top Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Slide Spacers (Sides)
  • 1 – 2x2 at 19-1/4” – Drawer Slide Spacer (Center)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 18-3/4” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 20-1/4” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 21-13/16” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Secure the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panels will be flush with the outside face of the frame pieces.

Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Constructing the Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame and panels. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Secure the frame pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panel will be flush with the outside face of the frame pieces.

Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attaching the Back with a Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Desk Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 4

Cut the piece for the center divider. Secure to the front stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Desk Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the top. Secure the sides to the top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then secure the longer trim pieces in the same manner.

Position the top so that the back is flush with the back of the desk, and the sides and front overhang by ½”. Fasten in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Construct the Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Attach the Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the drawer slide spacers. Secure the 1x2 side pieces using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Secure the center 2x2 using glue and countersunk screws through the divider and back into the spacer.

Drawer Slide Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. . For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
19
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Project Details

By special reader request, these fabulous Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Dawson Large Desk and perfect for those of you who need a wide solid work surface! I can see this in so many different and gorgeous finishes and with the flip of a drawer pull, this beauty will transform from rustic to vintage and even to modern! Can't wait to see what you do! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 3 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 4x4 posts at 6’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 4x4 posts at 30-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 19-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 19-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” –Upper Side Drawer Spacers
  • 2 – 1x3 at 19-1/2” – Lower Side Drawer Spacers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 61” – Back
  • 1 – 2x4 at 61” – Lower Stretcher
  • 2 – 2x4 at 15” – Lower Drawer Frame Side
  • 2 – 2x4 at 17” – Lower Drawer Frame Bottom
  • 2 – 2x4 at 3-1/2” – Upper Drawer Dividers
  • 1 – 1x4 at 61” – Upper Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x3 at 22-1/4” – Inner Drawer Spacers
  • 2 – 2x2 at 22-1/4” – Inner Panel Frame
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 22-1/4” – Inner Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 26-1/2” x 68” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 16” – Large Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1x3 at 22-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1x3 at 16” – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x3 at 22-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 23” – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 16-3/4” – Large Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 16-3/4” – Smaller Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 23-3/4” – Center Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes on the top frame piece so they face up, and the pocket holes on the lower frame piece will face down. This way, they will be hidden and won’t have to be filled.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the panels to the legs and the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the panels will be located 1” back from the outside face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower drawer spacers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the spacers (the side with the pocket holes) will be flush with the inside of the legs.

Desk Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Desk Side Drawer Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 2

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each shorter edge. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Desk Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 3

Cut the 2x4 piece for the lower stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the lower drawer frames. Drill pocket holes in the upper end only of the 15” pieces, and both ends of the 17” pieces.  Assemble the pieces in an “L” shape (as shown) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Secure the assemblies to the legs and the lower stretcher using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Lower Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Lower Drawer Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in one end only. Secure to the top of the lower stretcher using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the 1x4 piece for the upper stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the upper stretcher into the top of the drawer dividers to further secure them in place.

Upper Drawer Dividers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Upper Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 5

 Cut the 1x4 pieces for the inner drawer spacers and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the vertical lower frame pieces and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The spacer pieces should be flush with the inside face of the vertical pieces to allow for the inner sides to be positioned.

Cut the pieces for the inner panels and 2x2 frame piece. Drill pocket holes in the top and side edges of the panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end only of the 2x2 inner frame piece.

Secure the panel to the frame piece using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panel (without pocket holes) will be flush with the outside face of the 2x2. There will be a left and a right – the pocket holes in the 2x2 pieces will face opposite directions to secure to the vertical lower drawer frame piece.

Secure the inner panel assembly to the back and the vertical lower drawer frame piece. Use glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the inner panel, and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the 2x2 frame piece. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the back end of the 2x2 frame piece. 

Inner Drawer Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Inner Panels with Pocket Holes from Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Installing Inner Panels using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the desk frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top. 

Fastening the Top in Place with a Nail Gun for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Center Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Center Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Large Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Large Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Small Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Small Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jun
13
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Project Details

While we are hard at work reenginering most of our outdoor seating and lounge plans to work with less expensive cushions, I thought I would bring you a gorgeous modern buffet build! This large piece would be fabulous in an entryway or whever you need extra strorage including it's potential use in a bedroom and as a place to set your tv! A buffet is ust so versitile really, don't you think? 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 9 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 56-1/2” – Base Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 13” – Base Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 58-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 31-3/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 31-3/4” x 57” – Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 57” – Lower Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x2 at 24” – Lower Dividers
  • 6 – 2x2 at 15-3/4” – Shelf Supports & Drawer Slide Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 57” – Shelf
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6-1/4” – Upper Dividers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 58-1/2” – Upper Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 58-1/2” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 17” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 36 – 1x3 at 19-1/4” – Drawer Front Slats & Door Slats
  • 6 – 1x3 at 23-3/4” – Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Base Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position on the base so that 1” overlaps the sides and back (1/4” will overlap the front edge). Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Buffet Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each of the shorter edges. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Buffet Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Buffet Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 5

Cut the piece for the lower stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the lower dividers and shelf supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the dividers. Attach to the bottom and lower stretcher as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the shelf supports as shown. Secure the outer supports to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the outer face of the sides into the support. Secure the inner supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the dividers and back into the ends of the supports.

DIY Buffet Lower Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
DIY Buffet Lower Divider Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 6

Cut the piece for the shelf. Position as shown, then secure to the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Buffet Shelf for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the upper dividers and supports. Drill pocket holes in one end only of the dividers and secure to the lower stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the drawer slide supports as shown. Secure the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the dividers and back into the ends of the supports.

Upper Divider Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 8

Cut the piece for the upper stretcher. Secure to the cabinet sides and upper dividers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the front by ½”. Secure to the sides, back, and upper stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Install the drawer, then make any necessary adjustments.

Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer front slats. Install the front slats on the outer drawers first. The outside edge of the pieces will be flush with the outer face of the sides and there will be a 1/8” gap between the upper slat and the upper stretcher. Position the slats as indicated then secure to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the slats into the drawer boxes. There will be a 3/8” gap between the outer drawer front slats and the center drawer front slats with a 1/8” gap between the upper slat and the upper stretcher. Position the slats as indicated then secure to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the slats into the drawer boxes.

Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the doors. Position the slats as indicated in the drawing. Secure the vertical pieces using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Install the European hinges according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Install the outer doors first, with the outside edges flush with the outside face of the sides. The bottom edge of the doors will be flush with the bottom. Make any necessary adjustments.

Install the center door with a 3/8” gap between the outer doors and the center door using the regular cabinet hinges mounted to the face of the divider. Make any necessary adjustments.

Door for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Doors for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

May
14
2014
Project Details

I hope the weather is finally starting to warm up wherever you happen to live and you have DIY outdoor furniture building on the brain. I know I sure do! My little seester is getting married in July so it seems like there is so very much to do between now and then, and quite honestly I'm not sure how much building I will have the chance to do between now and then. Luckily I have all of you amazing builders to live vicariously through... Yipee for that.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Nova Outdoor End Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 19-1/2” – Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 16-1/2” - Bottom
  • 4 – 1x3 at 16-1/2” – Side Slats
  • 12 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Side Slats
  • 4 – 1x3 at 18” – Front & Back Slats
  • 12 – 1x2 at 18” – Front & Back Slats
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 18” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the legs and bottom. Cut the notches in the bottom using a jigsaw. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom as shown. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws.

How to Build the Table Bottom and Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Nova Outdoor End Table
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Position them with approximately ¼” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

How to Build the Sides using Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Nova Outdoor End Table
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front and back slats. Attach the slats to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The slat spacing should match that of the sides.

Fasten the Front and Back Slats in Place for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Nova Outdoor End Table
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Install the continuous hinge to the box, then to the top. Add the lid stays, if desired.

Construct the Lid for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Nova Outdoor End Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

May
13
2014
How to Turn a Mesquite Branch into a Box

My neighbor brings to me from his ranch near Sinton, Texas, mesquite tree limbs and roots he finds on the ground, as well as really old (50+ years) cedar fence posts to see what I can do with them.  Candle holders are a favorite but I also like to cut the timber into lumber that I can use to build boxes.  The Showcase photo is made from one such Mesquite tree limb.  I encourage everyone to try this with their favorite tree after it loses a limb.  I learned recently that there is an Ebony tree that grows wild in South Texas.  I look forward to giving that wood a try very soon.

First I cut the limb up into strips of lumber about 1/2" or 1/4" in thickness.  Then I select which piece will be used for the sides, ends, bottom and top.  The top and bottom have to less than 1/4" in thickness as they will slide through channels I rout with a 1/4" straight bit on the sides and ends.  The sides and ends thickness' just have to approximate each other.  All have to be square and flat which is where I spend hours sanding and cutting.  This is my justification for a planer for Father's day.

Once you have all of the pieces the way you want them just glue them up and finish.

The final result is the well-known Pencil Box....

 

How to Make a Box from a Mesquite Branch
Estimated Cost 

Mostly sandpaper, glue, and oil.  Maybe $5
 

Length of Time 

I would say I spent two hours a day for a week.  I could do it in half that time if I just would not offer myself so many alternatives.

Lumber Used 

Mesquite

Finishing Technique 

Lots of sanding.  Inside I sanded to 120 grit and the outside 320 grit.  After sanding two applications of Danish oil and then once the oil was dry a nice coat of Johnson paste wax.

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