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May
16
2016
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Robot Bookcase
Project Details

This Robot Bookcase is out of this world! It has TONS of storage and super cute details. This piece would be great for a kid's room, or a fun conversation piece in any room of the house. Ok, earthling... let's get building!

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. Don't forget... for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$50-$100
Dimensions
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Robot Bookcase
Tools
Lumber

1 – 3/4” plywood at 2' x 2’ 
1 – 3/4” plywood at 4’ x 8’

Materials
Cut List

2 – 3/4” plywood at 11-3/4” x 15-1/4” – Foot Shelf Sides
1 – 3/4” plywood at 11” x 19-3/4” – Foot Shelf Bottom
1 – 3/4” plywood at 11-3/4” x 25-1/4” – Foot Shelf Top
1 – 3/4” plywood at 13-3/4” x 19-3/4” – Foot Shelf Back
1 – 3/4” plywood at 11” x 13-3/4” – Foot Shelf Wall
1 – 3/4” plywood at 1-1/2” x 19-3/4” – Foot Shelf Trim
2 – 3/4” plywood at 11-3/4” x 23-3/4” – Body Shelf Sides
2 – 3/4” plywood at 11-3/4” x 25-1/4” – Body Shelf Top And Bottom
1 – 3/4” plywood at 23-3/4” x 23-3/4” – Body Shelf Back
1 – 3/4” plywood at 11” x 23-3/4”  – Body Center Shelf
2 – 3/4” plywood at 11” x 11-1/2”  – Body Shelf Walls
1 – 3/4” plywood at 6-1/4” x 9-3/4”  – Neck
2 – 3/4” plywood at 11-3/4” x 16”  – Head Shelf Top and Bottom
2 – 3/4” plywood at 8” x 11-3/4”  – Head Shelf Sides
1 – 3/4” plywood at 8” x 14-1/2”  – Head Shelf Back
2 – 3/4” plywood at 4” x 4” (4" diameter)  – Ears
2 – 3/4” plywood at 6” x 19-1/2”  – Arms

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Foot Shelf Sides, Bottom, and Top. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the tops of the Foot Shelf Sides and along the front and ends of the Foot Shelf Bottom. The Foot Shelf Bottom will be 3/4” up from the bottom of the Foot Shelf Sides and 3/4” back from the front edge of the Foot Shelf Sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Apply Edge Banding to exposed plywood edges if desired.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Robot Bookcase
Step 2

Cut the piece for the Foot Shelf Back. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes along all four edges of the Foot Shelf Back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. 

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Robot Bookcase
Step 3

Next, cut the pieces for the Foot Shelf Wall and Foot Shelf Trim. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the tops and bottoms of the Foot Shelf Wall and at each end of the Foot Shelf Trim. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Apply Edge Banding to exposed plywood edges if desired.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Robot Bookcase
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Body Shelf Sides, Bottom, and Top. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the tops and bottoms of the Foot Shelf Sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Apply Edge Banding to exposed plywood edges if desired.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Robot Bookcase
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Body Shelf Back. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes along all four edges of the Foot Shelf Back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. 

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Robot Bookcase
Step 6

Next, cut the piece for the Body Center Shelf. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Body Center Shelf. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Apply Edge Banding to exposed plywood edges if desired.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Robot Bookcase
Step 7

Next, cut the pieces for the Body Shelf Walls. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the tops and bottoms of the Body Shelf Walls. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Apply Edge Banding to exposed plywood edges if desired.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Robot Bookcase
Step 8

Cut the piece for the Neck. Position as shown and assemble with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws. Apply Edge Banding to exposed plywood edges if desired.  

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Robot Bookcase
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Head Shelf Sides, Bottom, and Back. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the tops and bottoms of the Head Shelf Sides and along all four sides of the Head Shelf Back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Apply Edge Banding to the front of the Head Shelf Sides and Head Shelf Bottom if desired.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Robot Bookcase
Step 10

Secure the Head Assembly to the Neck as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws. Finish the Head Assembly by securing the Head Shelf Top to the Head Shelf Sides and Back as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws. Apply Edge Banding to exposed plywood edges if desired.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Robot Bookcase
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Ears. Position as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws. Apply Edge Banding to exposed plywood edges if desired.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Robot Bookcase
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Arms. Position as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws. Apply Edge Banding to exposed plywood edges if desired.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Robot Bookcase
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Kiddos 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Apr
04
2016
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a V Bookshelf/Room Divider
Project Details

This is definitely a new slant on the traditional bookshelf! This piece has several nooks to place all of those great reads that you want to display. All you need are a few 1x2s, a piece of plywood, and a few hours and you've got yourself a beautiful and functional piece of furniture.

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. Don't forget... for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$125
Dimensions
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a V Bookshelf/Room Divider
Tools
Lumber

6 – 1x2 at 8’
1 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’ (you will have a decent bit left over after cutting pieces)

Materials
Cut List

4 – 1x2 at 32-1/4” – Frame Tops/Bottoms
4 – 1x2 at 75” – Frame Sides
1 – 3/4” plywood at 13-1/4” x 22-13/16” – Shelf A
2 – 3/4” plywood at 13-1/4” x 37-13/16” – Shelf B
1 – 3/4” plywood at 13-1/4” x 27-9/16” – Shelf C
3 – 3/4” plywood at 13-1/4” x 22-13/16” – Shelf D

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Frame Tops and Bottoms. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Frame Tops and Bottoms.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a V Bookshelf/Room Divider
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Frame Sides. Attach the Frame Tops and Bottoms (with pocket holes facing the each other/the inside) to the Frame Sides as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Screws. 

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a V Bookshelf/Room Divider
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a V Bookshelf/Room Divider
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Bookshelves A, B, C, and D. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the ends of each piece as shown. Pay attention to the location of the pocket holes in the images. Some holes will need to line up with the Frame Tops, Bottoms, and/or Sides. Apply Edge Banding to all of the plywood edges if desired.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a V Bookshelf/Room Divider
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a V Bookshelf/Room Divider
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a V Bookshelf/Room Divider
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a V Bookshelf/Room Divider
Step 4

Attach one of the Bookshelf Ds to Bookshelf C as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Position the pair of Bookshelves on the Frame Assembly as shown and attach with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. 

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a V Bookshelf/Room Divider
Step 5

Next, attach one of the Bookshelf Ds to one of the Bookshelf Bs as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Position the pair of Bookshelves on the Frame Assembly and on Bookshelf D as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a V Bookshelf/Room Divider
Step 6

Next, attach the last Bookshelf D to the last Bookshelf B as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Position the pair of Bookshelves on the Frame Assembly and on Bookshelf D as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a V Bookshelf/Room Divider
Step 7

Lastly, attach Bookshelf A to Bookshelf D as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Attach to the Frame Assembly as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a V Bookshelf/Room Divider
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Nov
04
2015
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // RH Inspired Printmakers Desk by Zack

I work for an excellent employer that allowed me to build my own desk instead of ordering a pre-fab one from one of the big box retailers. I'm really proud of what I was able to put together as this was my first real foray into furniture-building. There were a couple issues with the assembly order that I found while building from the plan on TDC, but thankfully I was looking far enough ahead to anticipate them and adjust the plans. I finished the desk about 6 weeks ago, but I'll work hard to remember what I encountered. 

For the desk, I got 3/4" maple 7-ply plywood and true cabinetmaker's maple 1x2"s (more on this later). To save on costs, I bought cheaper plywood (13-ply chinese birch) from the same place for the interior pieces (mostly the drawer boxes). I used optimalon's cut optimizer (http://www.optimalon.com/index.htm) to make sure I used wood efficiently. Since I wasn't using traditional dimensional lumber, I bought 200 BF of 1x2" and trimmed it all down to the actual dimensions (3/4"x11 1/12'), then glued the 1x2's together after they have been trimmed on the table saw to get the number of 2x2's I needed.

To save weight and materials, I nixed the full plywood divider, and replaced it with a full frame of 1x2 around the underside of the top assembly. That way, it was easier to install drawer slides later, as well as make adjustments to other portions.

I also put a back on the desk since it wasn't going up against a wall. If you're going to do that, you need to purchase a 3rd sheet of plywood as there won't be enough material with just the two in the list.

This was also my first project with the Kreg Jig, and I loved working with it! I have definitely learned that I need to be more consistent about clamping with screwing together pieces, there are a number of pieces on the desk that don't sit as flush as I would like because I screwed them together without any clamping. Learn from my mistakes!

Speaking of mistakes, you'll notice the top has a sort of cross pattern with 1x2 and plywood panels. That was done because I made a bad cut on the piece meant for the top of the desk. It was a 1/2" too narrow at one end, so I put the 1x2's in as a frame and filled it in with pieces I measured twice and cut once! I wish I had done it right from the beginning, but the end result looks on purpose and I'm happy with it!

I don't know what else to write about the project, but I'd love to answer any questions you may have about the build and the plans from my experience with them!

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // RH Inspired Printmakers Desk by Zack
Estimated Cost 

I spent about $500 on wood, screws, and the Kreg Jig for this project. The 7-ply exterior pieces of plywood were most expensive at $77 each, but they were worth it for the quality. Very good to work with. I bought the wood at Nashville Plywood, in case you're in the area. They were great to work with, even for a rookie like me.

Length of Time 

I worked on this project for about 30 hours total. It would have been shorter if I had a garage, but I had to move stuff (tools and materials) in and out of the house each time I wanted to work on it, so that exacerbated the time and space significantly to build.

Modifications 

I'd avoid the full middle panel and frame it instead with 1x2's. That way, no edge finishing to do on plywood, and it saves a ton of weight without sacrificing any strength or functionality. It also allows to you drill holes in the top to run cable and such without having to remove the drawers. Makes for a cleaner desktop without wires.

I also just screwed the drawer fronts in the normal way, I didn't assemble them per instructions. Fewer screws and less time.

I secured all of the side and back panels by drilling with the Kreg jig instead of doing brad nails or anything like that.

Lumber Used 

I had 200 feet of maple 1x2 that I glued together to make my 2x2's as well as using for the 1x2's./p>

2 4x8 sheets of plywood for top, back, sides, and drawer fronts

1 cheap 4x8 sheet of plywood for drawer boxes (could have probably used less, but have extra to play with now!)

1 sheet of 1/4" plywood for drawer bottoms, plus one extra small piece I had to go back and buy (no way to make the drawer bottoms with just one piece, measurements don't work out)

Finishing Technique 

Brushed on Minwax Early American stain. Will put poly on later, I'm not so good with coasters and know it's only a matter of time!

Additional Project Details 

Read up on ways to make accurate repeat cuts. That's the one thing I had wished I had done, it would have saved many headaches in fitting everything up in the end. Still some things I need to fix in that regard, but having it together with flaws is way better than not having it together.

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // RH Inspired Printmakers Desk by Zack
Aug
10
2015
The Design Confidential's Builders Showcase // Asian Style Bookshelf

This is only my 4th project. If I can build this, you can too!

I had blue cut birch plywood for me so I could get it home in my car.  I sanded it really well, using several grades of sandpaper, I stained it with kona colored stain and put it together very easily.  The only trouble I had was when my daughter and I brought it from the garage into the house because it's big, awkward and heavy.  Thanks to TDC for posting these plans.    Get building...you won't be sorry.

Estimated Cost 

$120.00 for screws, wood and stain.

Length of Time 

15-20 hours? I'm not sure, I work on stuff when I can...and I'm slow and my garage is very disorganized which slows me down even more.

Lumber Used 

birch plywood - 2 sheets

Finishing Technique 

kona stain - it's really dark - love it

Jul
08
2015
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Modern Pedestal Table via @thedesconf
Project Details

The perfect place to display that something special and a super easy build! This pedestal table is a great place to put a gorgeous vase or a long flowing plant, either way I know it will be a great addition to your space... Can't wait to see!

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. Don't forget... for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Modern Pedestal Table via @thedesconf

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$25-$50
Dimensions
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Modern Pedestal Table via @thedesconf
Tools
Lumber

For outdoor projects // Teak, Cedar and Redwood are recommended. These are typically more expensive, however this varies by region and of course each region has affordable alternatives that will work well if the previously mentioned ideals are not really an option due to budget. Which specie is best will depend on your regions climate among other things and may vary greatly from region to region. Which is the best choice for your project might be a great question to ask your local lumber supplier and regardless of lumber choice, just be sure to seal, seal, seal to protect from the elements for the greatest possible longevity and least amount of ongoing maintenance.

  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’                                                            
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 1’x1’, or 2’x2’ if that is the smallest size available  ’ 
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 26-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8-3/4” – Bases
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8-3/4” – Aprons
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 11-3/4” x 11-3/4” – Top    
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Legs and Bases. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes on both the angled bottom end of the Leg and on the straight end of the Leg. Additionally, drill pocket holes in the straight end of the Base. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Screws. Complete this step four times.

Arrange the Leg/Base pairs into a “pinwheel” pattern, setting each Leg/Base pair 1-1/2” back from the previous set as shown.  Assemble the Leg/Bases with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Screws.

You Can Build This! Easy Outdoor DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Modern Pedestal Table via @thedesconf
You Can Build This! Easy Outdoor DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Modern Pedestal Table via @thedesconf
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Aprons. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes on one end of each Apron piece. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Screws. Secure the other end (the end without pocket holes) to the adjacent Leg with glue and 2” Wood Screws.

You Can Build This! Easy Outdoor DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Modern Pedestal Table via @thedesconf
Step 3

Cut the piece for the Top. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Screws (through the pocket holes in the Legs). 

You Can Build This! Easy Outdoor DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build A Modern Pedestal Table via @thedesconf
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jun
08
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Project Details

Did you miss me? Did you notice all was quiet on the western front for a few days? No? Well, I still love you guys... Oh how fun is this project. I feel like it would be a chic outdoor gardening area, or a fabulous covered work table that just bekons stylish creation... don't you think? Yahoo.

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$100-$150
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’                                          
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’                                 
  • 4 – 2x4 at 8’                                 
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at – 4’x8’         
  • 3 – 1/2” diameter Wooden Dowel Rods at 8’ 
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x4 at 30” – Sawhorse Tops
  • 8 – 2x4 at 24” – Sawhorse Sides
  • 4 – 1x2 at 7-1/4” – Sawhorse Bottoms
  • 2 – 2x4 at 26” – Sawhorse Stretchers
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 3-1/2”x30” – Table Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 30”x66-1/2” – Table Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 2-3/4”x66-1/2” – Table Back
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 4-3/4”x20” – Cabinet Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 4”x12” – Cabinet Back
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 12”x20” – Cabinet Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 3-1/4”x18” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 2-1/2”x10-1/4” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 10-1/4”x18” – Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 4-1/2”x13-1/2” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – 2x2 at 96” – Awning Posts
  • 4 – 2x2 at 36” – Awning Arms
  • 4 – 1x2 at 12” – Awning Supports
  • 3 – 1/2” diameter Wooden Dowels at 74” – Dowel Rods
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Sawhorse Tops and Sawhorse Sides. With the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in the top ends of the Sawhorse Sides. Secure Sawhorse Sides to the Sawhorse Top with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Repeat twice, once for each Sawhorse.  

Cut the pieces for Sawhorse Bottoms and Sawhorse Stretchers. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Sawhorse Bottoms. Attach the Sawhorse Bottoms to the Sawhorse Sides as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.  Make sure that the pocket holes face the ground when assembling. Attach the Sawhorse Stretcher to the Sawhorse Bottoms with glue and 2” wood screws. Repeat twice, once for each Sawhorse.  

 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Step 2

Cut the pieces for Table Sides, Table Back, and Table Top.  With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes along the outer bottom sides of the Table Sides, to later attach to the Sawhorses.

With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes along the left and right bottom sides of the Table Top. Attach the Table Sides to the Table Top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Table Back. Attach the Table Back to the Table Sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Attach the Table Back to the Table Top with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws, starting the screws from the underside of the Table Top.  Apply edge banding to the exposed edges of plywood on the Table if desired. 

Now it’s starting to shape up! Attach the Table Top to the Sawhorses (through the Table Sides) as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Step 3

Next, cut the pieces for the Cabinet Sides, Cabinet Back, and Cabinet Bottom. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Cabinet Back (on the back side) and along the top edge. Drill pocket holes along the top edge of the Cabinet Sides. Attach the Cabinet Back to the Cabinet Sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. 

Attach the Cabinet Back/Cabinet Sides to the Table Top as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. 

With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes along the sides of the Cabinet Bottom on the bottom side. Attach the Cabinet Bottom to the Cabinet Sides and Cabinet Back as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. Apply edge banding to the exposed edges of plywood on the Cabinet if desired.

 

 

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Drawer Sides, Drawer Back, Drawer Bottom, and Drawer Front. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes along the front ends of the Drawer Sides, at each end of the Drawer Back, and along the front and sides of the Drawer Bottom on the bottom. 

Attach the Drawer Front to the Drawer Sides and Drawer Bottom as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. The Drawer Front will extend beyond the Drawer Sides on the top by 1/2”, the sides by 7/8”, and the bottom by 3/4”. Apply edge banding to the exposed edges of plywood on the Drawer if desired.

Install the Drawer into the Cabinet as shown. After finishing, apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the Drawer Box to help it slide smoothly. Add drawer hardware such as a pull or knob if desired. Drawer Box will have a 1/8” gap on each side once installed inside the Cabinet. 

 

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Awning Posts, Awning Arms, and Awning Supports. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes on one end of each Awning Arm.  With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes on each end of the Awning Supports. Drill 1/2” diameter holes on one end of each Awning Arm (the opposite end from where the pocket holes were drilled) and at the top of the Awning Post as shown. Attach the Awning Arms to the Awning Post with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Attach the Awning Supports to the Awning Arms and Awning Post with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.  Repeat twice, once for each side of the Work Table.  

Clamp the Awning Sides to the Work Table as shown. Drill pilot holes and screw in the Lag Screws in the locations noted. Repeat for each side of the Work Table. 

 

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Step 6

Cut the piece for the Cloth Awning. If you cannot find fabric wide enough for the Cloth Awning, feel free to sew two pieces together to get the appropriate width. Turn under each side of the Cloth Awning 1/2”, iron, turn over another 1/2”, and iron again. To secure the edges of the fabric, you can use iron-on adhesive, fabric glue, or sew the edges. 

 

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Dowel Pockets. Turn over all sides of the Dowel Pockets 1/2”, iron, turn over another 1/2”, and iron again. To secure the edges of the fabric, you can use iron-on adhesive, fabric glue, or sew the edges. 

 

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Step 8

Place the Dowel Pockets on the Cloth Awning as shown. Secure the Dowel Pockets to the Cloth Awning along the long edges of the Dowel Pockets, leaving the ends open to later accept the Dowel Rods. To secure the fabric together, you can use iron-on adhesive, fabric glue, or sew into place. 

 

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Dowel Rods. Insert a few inches of one end of the Dowel Rod into the drilled hole in the Awning Arm. “Thread” the Dowel Rod into the end Dowel Pocket of the Cloth Awning. Next, guide the Dowel Rod into the opposite Awning Arm. Repeat this process with the Dowel Rod at the top of the Awning Post and the Dowel Rod at the other end of the Cloth Awning. The Dowel Rods will extend past the Awning Sides by 1-1/2” on all ends. If you wish to secure the Dowel Rods into place, use 1-1/4” brad nails where the Dowel Rods pass through the Awning Arms and Awning Posts. 

 

Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Vintage Inspired French Work Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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