Browse all Farmhouse Style Free Woodworking Plans

Feb
23
2015

I have a 4 year old and 2 year old. They share a bedroom and my wife and I were looking for a design to make a lofted bed for our 4 year old. I found the Low Loft Bed plans on here and went with it. I built it slightly higher than the plans say and went 5 feet high overall.

But with that, we were able to turn it into a bunk bed for my 2 year old by repeating the steps for the top bunk on the bottom one!  A little paint, and we were all set!

I had followed the plans for the low lofted bed and went to the local big box store and got everything I needed. I added some cheap rope lighting below to top bunk for reading while on the bottom bunk.

This was what I started with from using the low lofted bed plan.

Estimated Cost 

All in all, I had about $150 in this project including the materials for the top AND bottom bunk. The paint was a few dollars more, but we had some of it already. The price is to build the bed and doesn't include the mattress cost.

Length of Time 

It was about 2 weekend project of time total. I built it once, painted it, took it apart, moved it inside, and reassembled it.

Modifications 

I just made it slightly higher than the original plans called for and put a bottom bunk on it.

Lumber Used 

I followed the plans with 1x4, 2x4, 2x6, and 4x4 with some hardware.

Finishing Technique 

I used lots of paint to get good coverage and I sanded the cuts to round the edges over. 

Additional Project Details 

This bed is super sturdy and comfortable.  We had over 600 pounds of people laying the the bottom bunk and the think didn't even think of moving!

Jan
22
2015
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Michael's Variation on the Provence Beam Dining Table

I want to thank you for the plans on your site. The Provence beam table was exactly what I was looking for. I made a few modifications that you and your readers might be interested in for variety’s sake. The only good choice for outdoor wood here in Tucson was redwood, and 2x10s were not available, so I used 2x6s and did a mitered picture frame around the 10’ interior 2x6s (I used 12’ 2x6s for the outer pieces) giving a total length of 130”. I added a central post to give a bit more support to the middle of the span, and a better way to secure the table planks. I also built it to be 28” tall. I used biscuit joinery for all the base since I already had a biscuit joiner. I used Watco danish oil (natural) for the finish. The project took a weekend and a few evenings. The table will easily seat ten.

The main drawback to using the biscuit method is the necessity to clamp everything, but anyone who has a biscuit joiner probably already has an assortment of clamps. I ended up using a strap clamp made from two ratcheting tie-down straps ($20 from the local Ace Hardware) to clamp the table top parts. That would be easier with pocket screws.

Mitered Surround for The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Michael's Variation on the Provence Beam Dining Table
Frame and Base for The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Michael's Variation on the Provence Beam Dining Table
Profile View of Base for The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Michael's Variation on the Provence Beam Dining Table
Table Profile for The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Michael's Variation on the Provence Beam Dining Table
Table View from Top for The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Michael's Variation on the Provence Beam Dining Table
Jan
20
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Project Details

This fine looking specimen has quite a bit in common with one of our most loved on project plans, the Indoor / Outdoor Provence Beam Dining Table, but if you notice the fancy schmancy truss setup supporting this table, it is essentially like the Provence on steroids. So my friends, I will go so far as to say that if you have your heart set on the Provence, but you like an element of this new exciting guy, then by all means, build the Provence and add any modification from this set of plans to give it a little extra something. Or just build this table. Whatevs.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 4x4 at 8’
  • 20 – 2x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List

// Refer to specific steps in this plan before cutting pieces - some pieces are cut with angled ends and their exact measurements may differ from the measurements listed below. Measurements listed below are PRE-BEVEL dimensions and the actual end measurements will change once cut according to specific steps. 

  • 2 – 2x4 at 35” – Side Top
  • 2 – 4x4 at 35” – Side Bottom
  • 4 – 2x4 at 25” – Side Outsides
  • 4 – 2x4 at 10” – Side Inside A
  • 2 – 2x4 at 10-3/4” – Side Inside B
  • 2 – 2x4 at 15-3/4” – Side Inside C
  • 2 – 2x4 at 27-3/4” – Side Inside D
  • 1 – 2x4 at 89” – Center Bottom
  • 2 – 2x4 at 7-3/4” – Center Outside A
  • 2 – 2x4 at 20-3/4” – Center Outside B
  • 1 – 2x4 at 39-3/4” – Center Inside A
  • 1 – 2x4 at 27” – Center Inside B
  • 1 – 2x4 at 67-1/4” – Center Inside C
  • 12 – 2x4 at 96” – Table Top Boards
  • 2 – 2x4 at 42” – Table Ends
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Side Top and Side Bottom (current pieces shown in white for each step).

Side Top and Bottom for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 2

Next, cut the pieces for the Side Outsides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in both ends of each Side Outside piece. For this Table, we have located the pocket holes either facing the inside of the Table or facing the ground. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Side Outside for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Side Insides. Using the Kreg jig, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Side Inside piece. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Side Inside for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 4

Cut the piece for the Center Bottom.

Center Bottom for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 5

Next, cut the pieces for the Center Outsides. Using the Kreg jig, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Center Outside piece. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Center Outside for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Center Insides. Using the Kreg jig, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Center Inside piece. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Center Inside for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 7

Cut the pieces for Table Top Boards and Table Top Ends. Using the Kreg jig, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Table Top Board. To make sure that the Table Top is as flat as possible, drill several pocket holes along the long side of the Table Top Boards as shown below. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

(Bottom view)

Table Top for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 8

Lay the assembled Table Top on the ground with its bottom facing up. Next, position the assembled Table Sides on each end of the Table Top as shown below. The Table Sides will be positioned 3-1/2” from both the long and short edges of the Table Top. Attach the Table Sides to the Table Top with 2-1/2” wood screws through the Side Top into the Table Top. Drill pilot holes if necessary.

Sides Positioned for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 9

With the Table still upside down, place the assembled Table Center onto the Table Top, between the Table Sides as shown. Center Inside A and Center Inside C will be 8” from the Table Sides and 19-1/4” from the Table Top edges. The Center Bottom will be centered on the Side Bottoms, with 15-3/4” on each side as shown. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Flip this fancy table over and admire all those angle cuts!

Center Positioned for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jan
15
2015
Free DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential: Reef Outdoor Sofa Loveseat Chair Builders Showcase Justin Vaughn Outdoor Reef Collection Living Space

Alright - time for some pics! We spent a couple weekends on this. We used cedar for the wood and kreg jig for all joints. I only messed up the back rails a little bit by trying to get a cut to fit against the forward-facing edge of the back support instead of anchoring underneath. The cushions came from Lowes (Allen & Roth, $50 for bottom/back after a coupon). After building the sofa, which is HUGE (75" interior width, cushions are 25" ea) my wife asked that I size down the loveseat for her petite frame. I shortened the reclined portion of the seat by 5 or 6" and dropped the height of the arms so that it fit her. I built the single chair to the same specs as the sofa. We primed with SWilliams wood primer (horrible and slow to work with but will pay off) and painted with a green from Lowes since SW wouldn't make the color we wanted in an outdoor finish.

Thanks again for the great plans and guidance along the way. This is my first DIY woodworking project that isn't something to ride bikes on - those are much more forgiving given that they don't need to be aesthetically pleasing and the edges aren't as clean.

Free DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential: Reef Outdoor Sofa Loveseat Chair Builders Showcase Justin Vaughn Outdoor Reef Collection Living Space
Length of Time 

Sofa: 10hrs - setup, learn the ins/outs of the miter saw and kreg jig which I've never used either of before. This also included time to re-proportion the plans for the cushions as well as a trip to lowes. Loveseat: 6 hrs - trip to lowes, reconfigure plans, build Chair: 4 hrs - I could do the sofa this fast now.

Prime/paint/sand/paint/sand... 8ish? with two of us working.

Jan
12
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Project Details

First came the Fretwork Screen and then came the bed... then came the baby in a baby carriage. Ha, wonder if I am subconsciously creating plans for a little love nest slash staycation. This plan is for a King Sized Bed and if you adore this and yet would like it in another size, feel free to comment on this plan and let me know or post in our Community pages and tag your discussion with Project Request. It is helpful to keep track of the requests this way. Yahoo... Xx... Rayan

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$200-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Tools
Lumber
  • 15 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 5 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 3 – 4x4 at 8’ 
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 4x4 at 14-1/2” – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – 2x4 at 78” – Footboard Frame
  • 2 – 4x4 at 52-1/2” – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – 4x4 at 85” – Headboard Top
  • 1 – 2x4 at 78” – Headboard Frame
  • 2 – 2x4 at 82” – Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 78” – Slat Supports
  • 1 – 2x4 at 78” – Headboard Bottom
  • 1 – 1x2 at 84” – Center Support
  • 2 – 2x4 at 10” – Center Support Legs
  • 1 – 1x4 at 14-1/8” – First Front Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x3 at 42-7/16” – Second Front Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x4 at 47-3/4” – Third Front Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x4 at 47-3/4” – Fourth Front Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x3 at 42-7/16” – Fifth Front Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x4 at 11-5/16” – Sixth Front Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x4 at 19-13/16” – First Back Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x4 at 36-3/4” – Second Back Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x3 at 45-15/16” – Third Back Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x3 at 47-3/4” – Fourth Back Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x4 at 47-3/4” – Fifth Back Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x4 at 47-3/4” – Sixth Back Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x3 at 38-15/16” – Seventh Back Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x3 at 12” – Eighth Back Fretwork Piece
  • 15 – 1x3 at 79-3/4” – Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the Footboard Frame and Footboard Legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in both ends of the Footboard Frame. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Footboard for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Step 2

Cut out the Headboard Frame, Headboard Top, and Headboard Legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in both ends of the Headboard Frame and in the top ends of the Headboard Legs. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Headboard for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Frame Sides and Slat Supports. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Frame Sides and attach to Headboard Legs and Footboard Legs with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Attach the Slat Supports to the Frame Sides using glue and 1-1/2” countersunk wood screws, leaving 2” at each end for the bed hardware. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Frame Sides for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Step 4

Cut the piece for the Headboard Bottom. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Headboard Bottom and attach with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Headboard Bottom for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Center Support and Center Support Legs. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Center Support and in the top ends of the Center Support Legs.  Attach the Center Support Legs to the Center Support as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Attach the Center Support to the Headboard Frame and Footboard Frame as shown with 2-1/2” pocket screws. Do not use glue!

Center Support and Legs for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Center Support Fastened in Place for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Step 6

Cut the Front Fretwork Pieces. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Front Fretwork Pieces.  Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Front Fretwork Pieces for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Step 7

Cut the Back Fretwork Pieces. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Back Fretwork Pieces.  Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Back Fretwork Pieces for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Step 8

Cut the Slats. Position the Slats on top of the Slat Supports and secure using countersunk 1-1/2” screws. Do not use glue!

Bed Slats for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jan
10
2015
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Emerson Bed Spin-Off

The whole bed project started out with the purchase of a new queen size latex mattress from a local company called Cozy Pure. They have a few locations on the east coast and their beds are simply amazing.

With that being said, we needed a bed frame that used slats instead of a box spring like our previous King Koil mattress. Also worth noting, our previous mattress and box spring was around 30" tall so we wanted to stick around the same height.

Lastly, we wanted to make a few subtle changes to the overall look. It was more of a last minute idea that popped in my head to make the build a little more manageable for an amateur woodworker like myself.

As stated above, we wanted the bed to be close to 30" tall like our previous setup. I made some adjustments to the overall height of the headboard and the footboard. I also raised the slat support as well to give additional height to the bed.

From what I can remember off the top of my head:

  • 23 - 1x6 tongue and groove boards (4.98/ea) - $115
  • 2 - untreated 4x4x8 (9.94/ea) - $20
  • 2 - 1x8x8 ($6.64/ea) - $13
  • 2 - 1x6x6 (7.25/ea) - $14.50
  • 15 - 1x3x6 ($4.21/ea) - $63.50
  • 1 - no mortise bed rail - $12.50
  • 2 - 1x6x6 (headboard/footboard tops)($7.25/ea) - $14.50

So I'm right under $300 for this bed. I could have saved even more money had I not used the select pine from HD/Lowes but it's so much nicer to not have to deal with the knots in certain areas. Plus most of the time you have better luck at finding straighter pieces. The major downside is each piece is about twice as much.

Reader Project in Master Bedroom for The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Emerson Bed Spin-Off
Estimated Cost 

As stated from above, it was around $300 after the paint, primer and materials. I also purchased the kreg jig which added another $100 to the build but that is a tool that I have fallen in love with.

Needless to say, this bed still cost a fraction of what it would have if I purchased it through a retailer.

Length of Time 

Total time was about 2-3 days. The longest part was waiting for the paint and poly to dry. Cutting and setting everything up was straight forward and simple.

Modifications 

The bed height was increased, the headboard/footboard material was changed as well. This was simply for aesthetic reasons.

The clearance between the floor and the bed rail is 10". This will allow for a future build of under bed storage.

I also added a middle slat support under the bed with an additional leg mid-way. This made the bed feel way more rigid and added extra support for the slats. I highly recommend doing this. It's going to help eliminate any sag in the future.

To add the mid-rail support, just buy (2) 2x4 hurricane ties (at least that is what I have called them) from Lowes or Home Depot ($.97/ea) and a untreated 2x4 ($3/ea) and put it in the middle of the bed rails. Make the mid-rail barely touch the slats. To add the mid-rail leg I just simply used some scrape 1x6 I had and did two offset legs screwed into the 2x4. Nothing fancy but works like a dream.

Lumber Used 

This build was all pine. The headboard and footboard is tongue and groove 1x6x8 boards. The posts are untreated 4x4x8 I found from Lowes.

Finishing Technique 

I'll be honest, I'm impatient and finishing is something I need to slow down on as well as become more advanced. We originally thought about doing a stain but quickly changed the idea to paint for simplicity reasons. My fear with the stain was the different types/looks of pine. Some of the wood had knots while some of it did not.

We ended up going with basic latex paint and a poly coat. We really couldn't find anything online that said whether or not latex was ok to use for this type of project. I guess only time will tell.

Word of advice, if you use the tongue and groove boards, don't sand mid-way through painting or putting on poly UNLESS you has sanded all of the boards smooth once assembled. I ran into the issue of sanding down the high spots (on accident) after applying multiple coats of paint and poly. It was bound to happen and it was just something I didn't think about until after I sanded.

I was also using 80 grit on the rough boards, then jumped to 120 grit and finished off with 220. When sanding the poly I used 220 as well but found it kind of worthless in the end. The finished didn't need to be perfect and I ended up saving time by not sanding the last coat of poly. I would assume this would be more important over a stain but over latex paint it's fine.

Oh and I used a water based latex. The bed sees a good amount of sun during the day through double windows and oil-based latex turns yellow over time. So thanks to Google, it was advised to use water-based poly.

Additional Project Details 

Only thing I "dislike" or need to address with the bed is the no mortise bed rails. I really dislike them because they aren't the tightest fit and allow for play (aka the bed can rock a little). I also ended up shimming beside the bed rail hardware (on the inside so you can't see it) and that helps a little. It could be better but it's not a deal breaker.

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