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Mar
19
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Project Details

You asked, sweet friends... and so you shall receive! This gorgeous plan in a twin sized version! Of course, you generally always 'receive' when you ask for plans, so I suppose this isn't precisely celebratory, but so many wanted this in twin that I think it is high time you get it! Yahoo! We are working on rolling out all of the other hundreds of project requests, so if you are hoping for something specific, stay tuned or feel free to post it in our community forum so I can keep track of what I am supposed to be working on!

If you prefer plans for the Full Sized version, click here.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$250-$300
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Tools
Lumber
  • 18 – 1/2x4 (rip down 1/2” plywood if lumber is unavailable) at 8’
  • 7 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 15 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 4’x8’
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’
Materials
Cut List
  • // Refer to specific steps in this plan before cutting pieces - some pieces are cut with angled ends and their exact
  • 4 – 2x4 at 65-1/2” – Post A
  • 4 – 2x4 at 63-7/16” – Post B
  • 3 – 2x4 at 36-1/4” – Side Top Rail, Side Middle Rail, and Side Bottom Rail
  • 3 – 2x4 at 74” – Back Top Rail, Back Middle Rail, and Back Bottom Rail
  • 2 – 2x4 at 74” – Front Top Rail and Front Bottom Rail
  • 4 – 2x4 at 22-1/2” – Roof Rafters
  • 6 – 2x4 at 43-1/4” – Floor Joists
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 43-1/4” x 78” – Floor
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/4” x 78” – Back Wall
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 28-1/2” x 40” – Front Wall
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/4” x 42-1/4” –Side Bottom Walls
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 18” x 42” – Side Top Walls
  • 6 – 1x2 at 7-1/8” – Front Top Trim
  • 6 – 1x2 at 13” – Front Bottom Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 38-1/8” – Door Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 16-1/2 – Top and Bottom Window Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 15” – Side Window Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 21” – Stair Hanger
  • 2 – 1x4 at 36-1/4” – Side Ledges
  • 10 – 1x2 at 10-3/4” – Side Bottom Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 14-13/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 10-15/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 6-9/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 74” – Back Ledge
  • 9 – 1x2 at 10-3/4” – Back Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 83-1/2” – Roof Ridge
  • 6 – 1/2x4 at 83-1/2” – Purlins
  • 42 – 1/2x4 at 28” – Roof Slats
  • 2 – 1x8 at 31-15/16” – Stair Sides
  • 2 – 1x8 at 18-3/4” – Steps
  • may differ from the measurements listed below. Measurements listed below are PRE-BEVEL dimensions and the actual end measurements will change once cut according to specific steps.

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for Posts A and Posts B as shown.

Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material. Drill pocket holes in the long side of Post A as shown. Assemble Post A to Post B as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Repeat this process again, but in a “mirrored” assembly as shown in the image. Built a total of two sets of these “mirrored” Post pairs.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Rail, Side Middle Rail, and Side Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of all pieces. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Back Top Rail, Back Middle Rail, and Back Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of all pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Front Top Rail and Front Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of both pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Rafters. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the pieces (avoid drilling pocket screws in the Ridge notch area).

Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Floor Joists. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Twin Sized Cabin Loft Bed
Step 7

Cut the piece for the floor. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 8

Cut the piece for the Back Wall. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes on the bottom of the Back Wall piece. Assemble as shown with glue  - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Front Wall. Drill pocket holes on the bottoms of the Front Wall pieces. Assemble as shown with glue  - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the Side Bottom Walls. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill pocket holes on the bottoms of the Side Wall pieces. Assemble as shown with glue  - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Walls. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Front Trim, Door Trim, Window Trim, and Stair Hanger. Assemble the Front Trim, Door Trim, and Window Trim as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Stair Hanger and attach with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 13

Cut the pieces for the Side Bottom Trim and Side Bottom Ledges. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Trim. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 14

Cut the pieces for the Back Trim and Back Ledge. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 15

Cut the piece for the Roof Ridge. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, nailed through the Rafters.

Step 16

Cut the pieces for the Purlins. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The ends of the Purlins should extend 1-1/4” past the Rafters.

Step 17
Step 17 Image 

Cut the pieces for the Roof Slats. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Roof Slats should be spaced 1/2” apart from each other and extend approximately 1-1/2” past the Front and Back Rails. The first and last Roof Slats should be flush with the Roof Ridge.

Step 18

Cut the pieces for the Stair Sides and Steps.

Drill pocket holes in the both ends of the steps. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws – make sure the pocket holes face the ground when assembling. Place on the Stair Hanger as shown and climb on in!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Mar
10
2015
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Cameron Corner Entertainment Book Shelf

My son just got a TV for the playroom last year for Christmas. He is 7 yrs old. He loves using netflix and playing his Wii U games. I had everything sitting on plastic totes.

I wanted something better and never could find the right stand to go in there. I needed something to last, but looked nice being in the room. 

I cut out some mouse holes (What they look like to me) for the cables to go through. I decided not to paint the back panels becuase I liked the two tone look it gave.

You can't see them that well in the picture, but I drilled holes in the back panel. They are right under each shelf. I did that to help vent some the of the hot air that either gaming system puts out when running for a such a longer period of time. You dont even see them when your looking at the front of it.

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Cameron Corner Entertainment Book Shelf
Estimated Cost 

$100-$120

Length of Time 

3 weeks 

Modifications 

I had to switch to the 1-1/4 pocket hole screws when attaching the legs to the side panels. The 2" screws were splitting my 2x2 legs. 

Lumber Used 

3/4 & 1/4 Oak Plywood

3 2x2 8' 

3 1x2 8' Spruce-Pine-Fir Furring Strip 

Finishing Technique 

Cabot 1-Quart Smoke Paprika Oil Modified Wood Stain (Satin)

 

 

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Cameron Corner Entertainment Book Shelf
Mar
05
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Project Details

Spring is in the air, is it not? I am getting an early start on all of my spring planting in the hopes that my garden babies will weather the extreme heat of the summer if they have a bit more time to get established. Fingers crossed it all works out and we don't have so many casualties as we typically do, eek! 

To view 1000's of other free woodworking plans, visit our plan index.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$25-$50
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Tools
Lumber
  • 6 – 2x4 at 8’ 
Materials
Cut List
  • 18 – 2x4 at 13-3/4” – Sides
  • 3 – 2x4 at 32-1/8” – Primary Centers
  • 12 – 2x4 at 14-3/4” – Secondary Sides
  • 1 – 2x4 at 3-1/2” – Centerpiece
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Sides. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both outside ends of each piece (noted in graphic) and along the bottom long end of 12 of the 18 Sides. See Step 6 for more detail of the Sides.

Top View of Side

The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Primary Centers. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes along the bottom long end of 2 of the 3 Primary Centers. Make sure to keep the pockets holes away from the last 5 inches of each end.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Secondary Centers. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes along the bottom long end of 8 of the 12 Secondary Centers.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Step 4

Create the First Level by laying out the Sides, Primary Center, and Secondary Centers as shown in the graphic. Note that many of the First Level pieces do not have pocket holes along their long edges. Assemble with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Step 5

Create the Second Level by laying out the Sides, Primary Center, and Secondary Centers as shown in the graphic. Assemble with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Step 6

Create the Third Level by laying out the Sides, Primary Center, and Secondary Centers as shown in the graphic. Assemble with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Step 7

Cut the Centerpiece. Attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” wood screws. This Centerpiece will help keep the Secondary Centers “locked” into place since no pocket screws will be used to secure them into place.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Outdoor Plans How to Build an Herb Wheel Garden Planter via @thedesconf
Step 8
Step 9
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Feb
23
2015

I have a 4 year old and 2 year old. They share a bedroom and my wife and I were looking for a design to make a lofted bed for our 4 year old. I found the Low Loft Bed plans on here and went with it. I built it slightly higher than the plans say and went 5 feet high overall.

But with that, we were able to turn it into a bunk bed for my 2 year old by repeating the steps for the top bunk on the bottom one!  A little paint, and we were all set!

I had followed the plans for the low lofted bed and went to the local big box store and got everything I needed. I added some cheap rope lighting below to top bunk for reading while on the bottom bunk.

This was what I started with from using the low lofted bed plan.

Estimated Cost 

All in all, I had about $150 in this project including the materials for the top AND bottom bunk. The paint was a few dollars more, but we had some of it already. The price is to build the bed and doesn't include the mattress cost.

Length of Time 

It was about 2 weekend project of time total. I built it once, painted it, took it apart, moved it inside, and reassembled it.

Modifications 

I just made it slightly higher than the original plans called for and put a bottom bunk on it.

Lumber Used 

I followed the plans with 1x4, 2x4, 2x6, and 4x4 with some hardware.

Finishing Technique 

I used lots of paint to get good coverage and I sanded the cuts to round the edges over. 

Additional Project Details 

This bed is super sturdy and comfortable.  We had over 600 pounds of people laying the the bottom bunk and the think didn't even think of moving!

Jan
22
2015
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Michael's Variation on the Provence Beam Dining Table

I want to thank you for the plans on your site. The Provence beam table was exactly what I was looking for. I made a few modifications that you and your readers might be interested in for variety’s sake. The only good choice for outdoor wood here in Tucson was redwood, and 2x10s were not available, so I used 2x6s and did a mitered picture frame around the 10’ interior 2x6s (I used 12’ 2x6s for the outer pieces) giving a total length of 130”. I added a central post to give a bit more support to the middle of the span, and a better way to secure the table planks. I also built it to be 28” tall. I used biscuit joinery for all the base since I already had a biscuit joiner. I used Watco danish oil (natural) for the finish. The project took a weekend and a few evenings. The table will easily seat ten.

The main drawback to using the biscuit method is the necessity to clamp everything, but anyone who has a biscuit joiner probably already has an assortment of clamps. I ended up using a strap clamp made from two ratcheting tie-down straps ($20 from the local Ace Hardware) to clamp the table top parts. That would be easier with pocket screws.

Mitered Surround for The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Michael's Variation on the Provence Beam Dining Table
Frame and Base for The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Michael's Variation on the Provence Beam Dining Table
Profile View of Base for The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Michael's Variation on the Provence Beam Dining Table
Table Profile for The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Michael's Variation on the Provence Beam Dining Table
Table View from Top for The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Michael's Variation on the Provence Beam Dining Table
Jan
20
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Project Details

This fine looking specimen has quite a bit in common with one of our most loved on project plans, the Indoor / Outdoor Provence Beam Dining Table, but if you notice the fancy schmancy truss setup supporting this table, it is essentially like the Provence on steroids. So my friends, I will go so far as to say that if you have your heart set on the Provence, but you like an element of this new exciting guy, then by all means, build the Provence and add any modification from this set of plans to give it a little extra something. Or just build this table. Whatevs.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 4x4 at 8’
  • 20 – 2x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List

// Refer to specific steps in this plan before cutting pieces - some pieces are cut with angled ends and their exact measurements may differ from the measurements listed below. Measurements listed below are PRE-BEVEL dimensions and the actual end measurements will change once cut according to specific steps. 

  • 2 – 2x4 at 35” – Side Top
  • 2 – 4x4 at 35” – Side Bottom
  • 4 – 2x4 at 25” – Side Outsides
  • 4 – 2x4 at 10” – Side Inside A
  • 2 – 2x4 at 10-3/4” – Side Inside B
  • 2 – 2x4 at 15-3/4” – Side Inside C
  • 2 – 2x4 at 27-3/4” – Side Inside D
  • 1 – 2x4 at 89” – Center Bottom
  • 2 – 2x4 at 7-3/4” – Center Outside A
  • 2 – 2x4 at 20-3/4” – Center Outside B
  • 1 – 2x4 at 39-3/4” – Center Inside A
  • 1 – 2x4 at 27” – Center Inside B
  • 1 – 2x4 at 67-1/4” – Center Inside C
  • 12 – 2x4 at 96” – Table Top Boards
  • 2 – 2x4 at 42” – Table Ends
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Side Top and Side Bottom (current pieces shown in white for each step).

Side Top and Bottom for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 2

Next, cut the pieces for the Side Outsides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in both ends of each Side Outside piece. For this Table, we have located the pocket holes either facing the inside of the Table or facing the ground. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Side Outside for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Side Insides. Using the Kreg jig, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Side Inside piece. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Side Inside for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 4

Cut the piece for the Center Bottom.

Center Bottom for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 5

Next, cut the pieces for the Center Outsides. Using the Kreg jig, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Center Outside piece. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Center Outside for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Center Insides. Using the Kreg jig, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Center Inside piece. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Center Inside for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 7

Cut the pieces for Table Top Boards and Table Top Ends. Using the Kreg jig, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Table Top Board. To make sure that the Table Top is as flat as possible, drill several pocket holes along the long side of the Table Top Boards as shown below. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

(Bottom view)

Table Top for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 8

Lay the assembled Table Top on the ground with its bottom facing up. Next, position the assembled Table Sides on each end of the Table Top as shown below. The Table Sides will be positioned 3-1/2” from both the long and short edges of the Table Top. Attach the Table Sides to the Table Top with 2-1/2” wood screws through the Side Top into the Table Top. Drill pilot holes if necessary.

Sides Positioned for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 9

With the Table still upside down, place the assembled Table Center onto the Table Top, between the Table Sides as shown. Center Inside A and Center Inside C will be 8” from the Table Sides and 19-1/4” from the Table Top edges. The Center Bottom will be centered on the Side Bottoms, with 15-3/4” on each side as shown. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Flip this fancy table over and admire all those angle cuts!

Center Positioned for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Andrew Table
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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