Industrial

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Reclaimed Timber Slat Coffee Table. This piece has a modern global sentiment and would be fabulous with many styles. Kinda love... Xx.. Rayan

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 22 – 1x4 at 8’
  • It may be more economical to purchase 1x8 lumber and rip it down to the width needed or rip plywood into strips the proper width!
Materials
  • 1-1/4” screws OR
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 24 – 1x4 at 51” – Top
  • 46 – 1x2 at 3-1/2” – Top Spacers
  • 20 – 1x4 at 35-1/4” – Sides
  • 36 – 1x4 at 3-1/2” – Side Spacers
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Notes:

It would be easiest to sand and stain each board before cutting it. The cut ends can always be touched up after cutting. The table will be assembled by starting with the top and layering each piece. Using brad nails would be better than screws because there will be less of a chance of hitting a nail in the piece below but screws can still be used, if desired (just keep that in mind!).

Cut the pieces for the top and the top spacers. Position the spacers on the first board locating them 2” in from each end. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws. Continue layering all of the pieces in this manner until the top is complete.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the sides and the side spacers. Start by positioning the first side piece at each end of the table top. Secure to each top board using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Continue layering each side board and spacer, securing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Touch up the stain on the cut ends, if it hasn’t been done so previously, then seal the entire table using a spray sealer.

Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to show you how to Make and Build a Reclaimed Timber Slat Media Stand. Easy to follow and fabulous for your budget, these plans will give you specialty retailer style for pennies on the dollar!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 19 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • It may be more economical to purchase 1x8 lumber and rip it down to the width needed or rip strips of plywood

 

Materials
  • 1-1/4” screws OR
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • ½” diameter threaded rod at 3’ with 2 nuts
  • 2 threaded inserts for the threaded rod
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 15 – 1x4 at 55” – Top & Bottom Frame
  • 46 – 1x2 at 3-1/2” – Top & Door Spacers
  • 22 – 1x4 at 18-3/4” – Sides & Legs
  • 22– 1x4 at 3-1/2” – Side & Leg Spacers
  • 18 – 1x4 at 27-7/16” – Doors
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 50” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 48” – Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Notes:

It would be easiest to sand and stain each board before cutting it. The cut ends can always be touched up after cutting. The stand will be assembled by starting with the top and layering each piece. Using brad nails would be better than screws because there will be less of a chance of hitting a nail in the piece below but screws can still be used, if desired (just keep that in mind!). Drill the holes in the pieces (where indicated) before assembly, also. The pieces for the doors should be coated with paste wax before assembly, especially at the end where it layers with the sides. This will enable the doors to slide smoothly when being opened and closed. The plywood pieces will be secured using pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the top and the top spacers. Position the spacers on the first board locating them 2” in from each end. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws. Continue layering all of the pieces in this manner until the top is complete.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the sides and the side spacers. Drill a ½” hole in each piece at one end as shown in the drawing. The first piece on each side will have a larger hole for the threaded insert. Tap the insert in each of the two boards before layering the side pieces. The bottom two boards will have a countersunk hole large enough to accommodate the nuts. Start by positioning the first side piece at each end of the table top. Secure to each top board using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Continue layering each side board and spacer, securing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the doors and drill a ½” hole as indicated in the drawing at one end of each board. Cut the pieces for the spacers and position as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws. Continue layering the boards until the doors are assembled. Slide the free ends of each door between the free ends of each side and line up the holes. Insert the threaded rod through the holes and turn it into the threaded inserts. Adjust the length of the rod if necessary, then add the nuts. Tighten with a pair of needle-nose pliers or a standard (flat) screwdriver.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the bottom boards. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each longer edge of the bottom piece. Attach the bottom boards to the sides of the plywood using lgue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the bottom assembly as shown and secure using glue and brad nails or countersunk screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the legs. Layer and secure them in the same manner as previously done.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Crate & Barrel Inspired Alcove Wall Shelf! This piece is both modern and interesting, a fabulous way to display your wares... yahoo. go forth and build! Xx... Rayan

Notes: Pieces #4, #5, #6, and #10 will be measured before they are cut!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 3 - 1x6 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 at 28-1/2” – Frame
  • 2 at 30” – Frame
  • 1 at 17-3/4” – #1
  • 1 at 22-1/4” - #2
  • 1 – at 6-5/16” - #3
  • 2 at 9-1/8” - #4
  • 1 at 15-7/8” - #5
  • 2 at 11-7/8” - #6
  • 1 at 7” - #7
  • 1 at 11-3/4” - #8
  • 1 at 12-3/4” - #9
  • 1 at 5-1/2” - #10
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Notes:  Each piece will be cut and assembled individually. Some pieces will have pocket hole screws at one end and some will have pocket hole screws at both ends.

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for #1 and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for #2 and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the piece for #3 and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

 Measure then cut the pieces for #4 and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

 Measure then cut the piece for #5 and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Measure then cut the pieces for #6 and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for #7 and drill pocket holes at one end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the piece for #8 and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 9
Step 10
Cut the piece for #9 and drill pocket holes at one end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Step 10
Step 11

Measure then cut the piece for #10 and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Crate & Barrel Inspired Alcove Wall Shelf
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image

This project was hard. The End. But this portion I am sharing with you today, was not hard. This version is simple and you can finish this project in a day which will be mainly dry time. It turned out so fabulously that I am fairly certain I will repeat it a few more times! Next time it will be so much easier to do, since I feel like I truly figured out the process this go around, and perfected it. Now you guys can do this too and can skip the 17 versions I completed that didn't work, not even a little bit... yay for that!

painter's tape, scotchblue painter's tape, tape

This project is part of an amazing blog hop brought to you by ScotchBlue™ Painter's Tape and The Home Depot, you can find that fabulousness here at Ready, Set, Paint Blog Hop, and more info at the bottom of this post, yahoo... and also we have a GIVEAWAY! Yay! One of you fabulous friends will walk away with a $75 The Home Depot Gift Card! Woot Woot.. Let's get this party started with a little DIY fun! Then on to the giveaway and bloggity hop!

Materials:

  • ScotchBlue™ Painter's Tape
  • Concrete Resurfacer 
  • Universal Mixer Attachment for your Drill
  • Bucket
  • Masonry Brush
  • Trowel 
  • 12" Concrete Tube Form at 48"
  • Paint in a color of your choice
  • Water Seal (optional)
  • Jig Saw or Circular Saw
  • Large Drill Bit
  • 3/4" plywood at 24"x24"
  • 3/4" self tapping screws

I taped off my concrete tube form using ScotchBlue™ Painter's Tape at the 20" mark, from either end, so that I would have an easy to see guide for my table height. Then using a large drill bit, I drill pilot holes close to my tape lines so that I could start my jig saw with ease. Simply cut around the tape line on both sides to cut your form to size using a jig saw (easiest for me) or a circular saw if you prefer.

I traced around the inside of my concrete tube form to set my table top size appropriately, and then cut them out using my jig saw. 

I used self tapping screws to attach my top to the form sitting just inside the lip of the form. 

Mix your concrete resurfacer with water according to the instructions on the package. Use your handy dandy mixer attachment on a very low and slow speed to mix your material. You want to end up with a consistency that is something like really thick pancake batter for this to work how it should.

 

Use your Masonry Brush and paint on a thin layer of the concrete resurfacer. Once you have covered the base, use your trowel to cover the top (this is much easier than trying to use the brush for the top for some reason) and smooth a bit. 

Allow it to dry partially (about 70%) then sand smooth. Be careful not to sand off your thin layer of concrete. If you need to touch up, this is the time to do so while your material is still wet enough. If you want to add a thick layer of concrete, do this in steps with thin layers each time, and work your way up. If you layer too soon you will have that experience of accidentally wiping off your first layer as you attempt to add on to it. 

Allow your tables to completely cure for 24 hours or the recommended time on the package. Once dry you are ready to tape and paint! 

Be sure to choose a paint color with a bit of a sheen to help seal any unfinished edges on the tube form. This will also help the tables weather a bit better. Give the edges and the bottom inch of the underside a very good coat or two of your paint. 

I used a foam brush, since they grab quite a bit of paint, and used a stippling motion (pouncing) since the tables have quite a bit of texture. I worked my way around making sure to hit every single nook and cranny. I only did one coat, but I did a very good thick single coat. 

I like to remove my tape right away but this is a personal preference and not a requirement! For me it helps to know if I have made an error before I put my painting supplies away, so I 'check' my work early...

I would recommend a water seal spray of some sort if you live in a wet climate, just to be sure you don't have exposed cardboard around the bottom. Otherwise enjoy! 

Love, love, love these beauties and they are very light weight too! Easy to pick up and move around but sturdy enough for outdoor use! Though I'm thinking indoor use would be fabulous too. 

See another project from this blog-hop here: Centsational Girl - Textured Panel Dresser Makeover

 

Now who is ready for that giveaway I promised? You? Awesome! Enter using the form below!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

painter's tape, scotchblue painter's tape, tapepainter's tape, scotchblue painter's tape, tape

This post was brought to you in partnership with The Home Depot and ScotchBlue™ Painter's Tape.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans, teaching you How to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Sawhorse Console Table! I think I have a slight obsession with sawhorse tables of any variety... am I alone on that one? Or do you guys love them too? Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 6 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x6 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 2 sets of non-mortise hinges
  • 4 – 1” metal straps approx. 18” long
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 1x2 at 22” – X
  • 8 – 1x2 at 10-1/2” – X
  • 4 – 1x3 at 13-1/2” – Sawhorse Side Frame
  • 4 – 1x3 at 16-1/2” – Sawhorse Side Frame
  • 8 – 1x2 at 27-1/2 – Sawhorse Legs
  • 3 – 2x6 at 84” – Top
  • 7 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Top Supports
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the X. Cut the angles as shown noting that they are NOT cut at 45 degrees. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble the X pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the sawhorse side frames. Drill pocket holes in each end of the lower 1x3 frame pieces as well as the top edge of each leg. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Install the hinges at the top of the sawhorses. Cut the metal straps to length and drill a hole in each end. Secure to the sides with 1-1/4” screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble the top using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the top supports and position them as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

The top will rest on the sawhorses with the sawhorses located between the two supports that are located closest together.

Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

We covered the plans to build the table here and now the benches! Yahoo... Materials listed are to build two benches, even better, right? Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x3 at 4’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 6 – 2x6 at 8’
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 8 – 2x6 at 16-7/16” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x4 at 16-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 4 – 2x3 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 4 – 2x4 at 16-1/2” – Seat Ends
  • 6 – 2x6 at 68” – Seat Planks
  • 4 – 2x2 at 33-7/8” – Truss
  • 2 – 1x2 at 36-3/4” – Stretcher
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles in the legs as shown using a jigsaw, miter saw, or circular saw. Note that the angles are NOT cut at 45 degrees. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each leg. There will be two left legs and two right legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 stretcher. Assemble the sides as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The 2x3 stretchers will be perpendicular to the ground and will not follow the angle of the legs while the 2x4 stretcher will rest on top of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Position the seat as shown and secure using countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the upper side stretcher into the bottom of the seat.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the trusses. Cut the angles and the notches as shown. Position in the center of the lower stretcher and secure using toenailed 2-1/2” screws through the truss into the stretcher, as well as through the truss into the top on the underside.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the stretcher. Center on the trusses and secure using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Emmerson Queen Bed

Headboard, Footboard, and Sides can be stained in a striped pattern to mimic slats…

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • Two sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 4x4 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 15 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • One set of Bed Rail Brackets
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 4x4 at 46” – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 38” x 56” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 1x4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 56” – Headboard/Footboard Top
  • 2 – 4x4 at 15-1/2” – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 56” – Footboard Panel
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 81” – Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 77” – Slat Supports
  • 17 – 1x3 at 61-1/2” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Apply optional edge banding to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs  and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of thepanel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the footboard legs  and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the panel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and the slat support. Attach the slat supports to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws leaving 2” at each end for the bed hardware. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the slats. The slats will be spaced approximately 2-1/2” apart. Attach to the supports using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue! The slats may have to be removed at some point to take the bed apart!

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Design Workshop Deep Drawer Component! These components are designed to work with steel shelving standards and brackets similar to these where screws can be inserted through the bottom of the bracket into the component.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Design Workshop Deep Drawer Component
Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • One half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • Screws to go through the bracket into the component – length will vary
  • One set of 16” drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 31” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 17-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 29-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 27” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 16” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 29-1/4” – Drawer Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 28-1/2” – Drawer Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges of the side pieces. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes in the sides and the back.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the drawer front. Cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. Cut the pieces for the sides, bottom, and back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. The box will be placed on the shelving brackets then secured with screws through the bracket into the box.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Parsons Media Large Console! This piece is fabulous, and will be a relatively easy build for those of you ready to try your hand at a media console without taking on some of the tricky aspects that can mean! Xx...Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 - sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Door pulls
  • Magnetic catches for the doors
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 12” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 17” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 2x2 at 57” – Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 57” – Shelf
  • 2 – 1x3 at 15-1/2” – Inner Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 at 57” – Inner Frame
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 19-1/4” x 60” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 19-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 58-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 18-1/2” – Divider
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 29-15/16” – Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and side frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the shelf. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.   Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the lower stretchers.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the inner frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces, as well as one long edge of each piece to attach the bottom. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the frame to the inside of the side frames and stretchers using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the inner frame will be flush with the bottom of the stretchers and side frames. (It will be 1” higher than the stretchers and side frames)

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the bottom and secure to the inner frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the bottom. The back edge of the bottom will be flush with the back of the base frame.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes as shown. Note that the divider is not centered in the cabinet, though it can be centered if desired. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides, back, and divider into the bottom.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the doors. Attach the hinges to the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the magnetic catches according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Market Playset! I could not be more excited to share this plan with you kids! *Squeal* I have been eyeing a similar beaut on Pinterest for a while now and I think I need to have one for my very own playspace. Haven't you guys loved playing store for as long as you can remember? I have for sure... Xx...Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • List includes lumber for ONE bench, ONE large crate, ONE small crate, and ONE scale
  • 1 – 1” dowel rod at 3’
  • 1 – ¾” square dowel rod at 3’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Cotton cord or twine for scale
  • Cotton fabric or a sheet for the canopy
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 6 – 2x2 at 17-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 15” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 1x2 at 15” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 21-3/4” – Stretchers
  • 4 – 1x2 at 21-3/4” – Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 48” – Shelf & Top
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 12” x 14” – Large Crate Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 14” – Large Crate Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 13-1/2” – Large Crate Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 10” – Small Crate Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 10” – Small Crate Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 9-1/2” – Small Crate Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 12” – Scale Base
  • 1 – 1” dowel at 12” – Scale Post
  • 1 – ¾” square dowel at 12” – Scale Arm
  • 2 – ¾” plywood circles at 5” – Scales
  • 2 – 1x3 at 43” – Canopy Supports
  • 2 – 1x3 at 60” – Canopy Supports
  • 2 – 1x3 at 72” – Canopy Supports
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Position the pieces so that the outside face is flush with the outside face of the legs, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end then assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut the notches using a jigsaw. Position the shelf as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the table frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the large crate. Attach the sides to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Cut the notches in the front and back using a jigsaw, then secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the small crate. Assemble in the same manner as the large crate.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the scale. Bore a 1” hole in the centered on the base, 1” in from the long edge. Push the dowel post in secure with a couple of brad nails from the back side of the base.

Cut the piece for the arm. Bore 1/4” holes through the top of each end approximately 1” in from each end. Cut a ½” piece of round dowel and drill a hole in the center of it, as well as in the center of the arm. Loosely attach the arm to the post with a screw through the round dowel piece and arm into the post.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the scales with a jigsaw. Drill three 1/8” holes in each piece and thread a piece of cord or twine through and knot on the bottom. Gather all three pieces of cord or twine and thread through the holes in the arm. Knot to secure.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the canopy stand. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces and assemble as shown. Secure the canopy supports to one end of the table using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Cut the fabric or sheet to make the canopy and staple in place on the top.

Step 7
Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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