Feb
15
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Project Details

The versatility of this adorable rolling cart table is just lovely! Use it as a bar cart, or rolling utility cart, even a side table and this gal will look fabulous no matter how you choose to put her to work. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$50-$75
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1-1/2” Wooden Dowel at 8’
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 2’x4’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 12-1/2” x18-1/2” – Upper and Lower Trays
  • 4 – 1x2 at 20” – Upper and Lower Tray Fronts and Backs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 14” – Upper and Lower Tray Sides
  • 4 – 1-1/2” Wooden Dowel at 4-1/4” – Bottom Posts
  • 4 – 1-1/2” Wooden Dowel at 14-1/4” – Middle Posts
  • 4 – 1-1/2” Wooden Dowel at 3-1/4” – Top Posts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Upper and Lower Trays. Mark the locations of the Posts as shown (on the top side and bottom side of each Tray). With a 1-1/2” Spade Bit, drill a hole at each location approximately 1/4” inch deep. You can wiggle the Spade Bit from side to side a little as you drill, so that the hole will be slightly larger than the 1-1/2” Post. Repeat this step twice - once for the Upper Tray and once for the Lower Tray.

Upper and Lower Trays:

Trays for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Upper and Lower Fronts, Backs, and Sides. Attach the Upper Front, Back, and Sides to the Upper Tray as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Repeat this process for the Lower Tray.  If you want a more rounded appearance for the corners of your trays, get out your sander and sand away!

Shown: Tray Top then Tray Bottom

Trays Top View for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Trays Top View for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Posts. Each Post will be composed of 3 pieces, but assembled in the Cart, will give the illusion of one long piece. For the Bottom Post, mark the center of the Post.  Using an appropriately sized Spade Bit, drill a hole slightly larger (we are using a 3/8” Spade Bit for our specific Caster) and longer (approximately 1” deep for our specific Caster) than the stem of the Caster you are using. You can wiggle the Spade Bit from side to side a little as you drill, so that the hole will be slightly larger and longer than the stem of the Caster.

Next, insert the stem of the Caster into the Lower Post – repeat for each Bottom Post.  The stem should fit very snug in the drilled hole. If it is a little looser than you would like, place a little glue into the drilled hole, reinsert the stem and let the glue set.

Lower Posts and Casters for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 4

Next, place a dab of glue into the holes drilled on the bottom side of the Lower Tray. Place the Bottom Posts (with inserted Casters) into the holes, ensuring that the Posts are set at 90 degrees. Each Post will be sunk 1/4” into the drilled hole.

Lower Tray Position for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 5

Place a dab of glue into the holes drilled on the top side of the Lower Tray. Place the Middle Posts into the holes, ensuring that the Posts are set at 90 degrees. Each Post will be sunk 1/4” into the drilled hole.

Middle Posts for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 6

Place a dab of glue into the holes drilled on the bottom side of the Upper Tray. Place the Middle Posts into the holes, ensuring that the Posts are set at 90 degrees. Each Post will be sunk 1/4” into the drilled hole.

Top Tray Position for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 7

Place a dab of glue into the holes drilled on the top side of the Upper Tray. Place the Top Posts into the holes, ensuring that the Posts are set at 90 degrees. Each Post will be sunk 1/4” into the drilled hole. If you want a more rounded appearance for the edges of the Top Posts, get out your sander and sand away!

Top Posts for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jan
10
2015
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Emerson Bed Spin-Off

The whole bed project started out with the purchase of a new queen size latex mattress from a local company called Cozy Pure. They have a few locations on the east coast and their beds are simply amazing.

With that being said, we needed a bed frame that used slats instead of a box spring like our previous King Koil mattress. Also worth noting, our previous mattress and box spring was around 30" tall so we wanted to stick around the same height.

Lastly, we wanted to make a few subtle changes to the overall look. It was more of a last minute idea that popped in my head to make the build a little more manageable for an amateur woodworker like myself.

As stated above, we wanted the bed to be close to 30" tall like our previous setup. I made some adjustments to the overall height of the headboard and the footboard. I also raised the slat support as well to give additional height to the bed.

From what I can remember off the top of my head:

  • 23 - 1x6 tongue and groove boards (4.98/ea) - $115
  • 2 - untreated 4x4x8 (9.94/ea) - $20
  • 2 - 1x8x8 ($6.64/ea) - $13
  • 2 - 1x6x6 (7.25/ea) - $14.50
  • 15 - 1x3x6 ($4.21/ea) - $63.50
  • 1 - no mortise bed rail - $12.50
  • 2 - 1x6x6 (headboard/footboard tops)($7.25/ea) - $14.50

So I'm right under $300 for this bed. I could have saved even more money had I not used the select pine from HD/Lowes but it's so much nicer to not have to deal with the knots in certain areas. Plus most of the time you have better luck at finding straighter pieces. The major downside is each piece is about twice as much.

Reader Project in Master Bedroom for The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Emerson Bed Spin-Off
Estimated Cost 

As stated from above, it was around $300 after the paint, primer and materials. I also purchased the kreg jig which added another $100 to the build but that is a tool that I have fallen in love with.

Needless to say, this bed still cost a fraction of what it would have if I purchased it through a retailer.

Length of Time 

Total time was about 2-3 days. The longest part was waiting for the paint and poly to dry. Cutting and setting everything up was straight forward and simple.

Modifications 

The bed height was increased, the headboard/footboard material was changed as well. This was simply for aesthetic reasons.

The clearance between the floor and the bed rail is 10". This will allow for a future build of under bed storage.

I also added a middle slat support under the bed with an additional leg mid-way. This made the bed feel way more rigid and added extra support for the slats. I highly recommend doing this. It's going to help eliminate any sag in the future.

To add the mid-rail support, just buy (2) 2x4 hurricane ties (at least that is what I have called them) from Lowes or Home Depot ($.97/ea) and a untreated 2x4 ($3/ea) and put it in the middle of the bed rails. Make the mid-rail barely touch the slats. To add the mid-rail leg I just simply used some scrape 1x6 I had and did two offset legs screwed into the 2x4. Nothing fancy but works like a dream.

Lumber Used 

This build was all pine. The headboard and footboard is tongue and groove 1x6x8 boards. The posts are untreated 4x4x8 I found from Lowes.

Finishing Technique 

I'll be honest, I'm impatient and finishing is something I need to slow down on as well as become more advanced. We originally thought about doing a stain but quickly changed the idea to paint for simplicity reasons. My fear with the stain was the different types/looks of pine. Some of the wood had knots while some of it did not.

We ended up going with basic latex paint and a poly coat. We really couldn't find anything online that said whether or not latex was ok to use for this type of project. I guess only time will tell.

Word of advice, if you use the tongue and groove boards, don't sand mid-way through painting or putting on poly UNLESS you has sanded all of the boards smooth once assembled. I ran into the issue of sanding down the high spots (on accident) after applying multiple coats of paint and poly. It was bound to happen and it was just something I didn't think about until after I sanded.

I was also using 80 grit on the rough boards, then jumped to 120 grit and finished off with 220. When sanding the poly I used 220 as well but found it kind of worthless in the end. The finished didn't need to be perfect and I ended up saving time by not sanding the last coat of poly. I would assume this would be more important over a stain but over latex paint it's fine.

Oh and I used a water based latex. The bed sees a good amount of sun during the day through double windows and oil-based latex turns yellow over time. So thanks to Google, it was advised to use water-based poly.

Additional Project Details 

Only thing I "dislike" or need to address with the bed is the no mortise bed rails. I really dislike them because they aren't the tightest fit and allow for play (aka the bed can rock a little). I also ended up shimming beside the bed rail hardware (on the inside so you can't see it) and that helps a little. It could be better but it's not a deal breaker.

Jan
07
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Fretwork Folding Screen
Project Details

Our first plan of the new year! Yahoo. I am all about tackling those lingering projects at the moment- there will be no more procrastinating because projects multiply like bunnies around here. Truly, I am completely overwhelmed with all of the 'stuff' I have and need to keep on hand for this amazing biz-ness of mine, but I am ready to simplify and focus on only those things I really truly need to complete or better my spaces. If you need a little something to define a space in your home, but don't want to block light or make your space feel smaller, this is the perfect plan for you. Right now I would like to have two of these to close myself off from my crazy toddler - mama needs a moment of silence to mourn the sweet little baby that he used to be right before he became the most adorable demon seed babe in the whole wide world, eek!  Xx... Rayan

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Fretwork Folding Screen

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$100-$150
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Fretwork Folding Screen
Tools
Lumber
  • 11 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 6 – 1x2 at 22” – Frame Top and Bottom
  • 6 – 1x2 at 67” – Frame Sides
  • 3 – 1x4 at 16-1/4” – First Front Piece
  • 3 – 1x2 at 31-1/2” – Second Front Piece
  • 3 – 1x4 at 31-1/2” – Third Front Piece
  • 3 – 1x2 at 31-1/2” – Fourth Front Piece
  • 3 – 1x4 at 24-1/16” – Fifth Front Piece
  • 3 – 1x4 at 12” – First Back Piece
  • 3 – 1x2 at 31-1/2” – Second Back Piece
  • 3 – 1x4 at 31-1/2” – Third Back Piece
  • 3 – 1x4 at 31-1/2” – Fourth Back Piece
  • 3 – 1x2 at 31-1/2” – Fifth Back Piece
  • 3 – 1x4 at 9-7/8” – Sixth Back Piece 
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the Frame Top, Bottom, and Sides. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the both ends of the Sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Build the Frame for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Fretwork Folding Screen
Step 2

Cut out the Front Pieces. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the both ends of the Front Pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. The Front Pieces will be flush with the front side of the Frame. All pieces will be cut at a 45 degree angle.

Assemble Front Pieces for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Fretwork Folding Screen
Step 3

Cut out the Back Pieces. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the both ends of the Back Pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. The Back Pieces will be flush with the back side of the Frame. All pieces will be cut at a 45 degree angle. Repeat Steps 1-3 two more times to create a total of three Screens.

Assemble Back Pieces for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Fretwork Folding Screen
Step 4

Next, let’s place the hinges on one Screen. On this Screen – which will be the middle screen - place three hinges on each outside edge of the Frame as shown. On one side, the hinges will be lined up with the front of the Frame, and on the other side, the hinges will be lined up with the back of the Frame.

Fasten the Hinges for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Fretwork Folding Screen
Step 5

Attach all three Screens together, with the hinged Screen in the center. “Fold” the screen into a shape that allows it to stand on its own.

Attach all 3 Screens for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Fretwork Folding Screen
Step 6
Step 7
Step 8
Step 9
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Dec
31
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Broadway Bar
Project Details

To honor the changing of the year tonight, I thought a new plan for a fancy new bar setup would be a lovely way to celebrate with you guys on this lovely New Year's Eve.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Broadway Bar

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$50-$75
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Broadway Bar
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 7/8” diameter dowel at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 11-3/4”x40”– Top and Bottom Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 11-3/4”x39”– Bar Side
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 10-1/4”x39-1/4” – Second Shelf
  • 2 – 1x2 at 39-1/4” – Second Shelf Front and Back
  • 1 – 1” diameter dowel at 14-1/4” – Right Side Top Dowel
  • 1 – 1” diameter dowel at 24-3/4” – Right Side Bottom Dowel
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 10-1/4”x19-1/2” – Third Shelf
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” – Third Shelf Front and Back
  • 1 – 1” diameter dowel at 14-1/4” – Left Side Top Dowel
  • 1 – 1” diameter dowel at 10-1/2” – Left Side Bottom Dowel
  • 4 – 3/4” plywood at 3/4”x11-3/4” – Spacers
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 2-1/2”x11-3/4” – End Slides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 3-3/4”x11-3/4” – Inside Slides
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Top and Bottom Shelves and Bar Side. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Bar Side. Drill a 1” diameter hole 2-1/2” from each end, centered, on the Top and Bottom Shelves. Assemble as shown with the 1” drilled holes facing the inside and with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Top and Bottom Shelves with Bar Side for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Broadway Bar
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Second Shelf and Second Shelf Front and Back. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in one bottom end of the Second Shelf. Drill a 1” diameter hole 2-1/2” from the opposite end of the pocket holes, on the top side and centered. Drill a second 1” diameter hole 22-1/4” from the same end, centered, but on the bottom side. Attach the Second Shelf Front and Back to the Second Shelf as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Position Right Side Top Dowel and Right Side Bottom Dowel with glue and attach the Second Shelf (with Front and Back pieces) to the Bar Side as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Note: you can paint the dowels with metallic paint before assembly to make them look like metal rods.

Second Shelf for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Broadway Bar
Second shelf Bottom for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Broadway Bar
Second Shelf Placement for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Broadway Bar
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Third Shelf and Third Shelf Front and Back. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in one bottom end of the Third Shelf. Drill a 1” diameter hole 2-1/2” from the opposite end of the pocket holes, on the both the top side and bottom side, centered. Attach the Third Shelf Front and Back to the Third Shelf as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Position the Left Side Top Dowel and Left Side Bottom Dowel with glue and attach the Third Shelf (with Front and Back pieces) to Bar Side as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Note: you can paint the dowels with metallic paint before assembly to make them look like metal rods.

Third Shelf for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Broadway Bar
Third Shelf Placement for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Broadway Bar
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Spacers. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Spacers for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Broadway Bar
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Slides. The End Slides will be located flush with the end Spacers and the Inside Slides will be centered on the Spacers. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Slides for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Broadway Bar
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Dec
21
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Toy Plans How to Build a Children's Retro Washer + Dryer
Project Details

If your kiddos love to play house then they will adore having their very own stacking retro washer and dryer to pretend play with! My littlest adores clean up, it is one of my favorite things about him! He just hates a messy space, lol! Let's see how long that lasts, eh? As with most of our free plans for toys and play, this fun thing is part of our Handmade Holiday series that will be ongoing till the end of time!

The Design Confidential Free DIY Toy Plans How to Build a Children's Retro Washer + Dryer

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$50-$75
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Toy Plans How to Build a Children's Retro Washer + Dryer
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’ 
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 14”x30-1/4” – Sides
  • 3 – 3/4” plywood at 12-1/2”x16-3/4” – Top, Shelf, and Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 16-3/4”x27-1/4”– Back
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 16-3/4”x27-1/4”– Front
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at – 3”x16-3/4” – Front Bottom Apron
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 10”x11-1/2”– Washer and Dryer Doors
  • 2 – Plexiglas at 8” diameter circles – Washer and Dryer Windows
  • 2 – 1x3 at 3-1/2”– Filter and Soap Drawer Stops
  • 2 – 1x3 at 2-1/2”– Filter and Soap Drawer Fronts
  • 4 – 1x3 at 2-1/2”– Filter and Soap Drawer Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 2-1/2”– Filter and Soap Drawer Backs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 1-1/2”– Filter and Soap Drawer Bottoms
  • 2 – 1x3 at 2” diameter circles – Washer and Dryer Dials
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Sides, Top, Shelf, and Bottom. Set your Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each side of the Top, Bottom, and Shelf. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Make sure that all pocket screws face the inside of the Washer/Dryer or toward the ground so that they are less visible when the entire piece is assembled.

Top Shelf Bottom Sides for The Design Confidential Free DIY Toy Plans How to Build a Children's Retro Washer + Dryer
Step 2

Cut the Back piece. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes, facing the inside of the Washer/Dryer, in each side of the Back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Back for The Design Confidential Free DIY Toy Plans How to Build a Children's Retro Washer + Dryer
Step 3

Cut the piece for the Front with the Door Openings and Drawer Openings.  Remember to drill pilot holes slightly larger than your jigsaw blade for these inside cuts. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes, facing the inside of the Washer/Dryer, in each side of the Front. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Front for The Design Confidential Free DIY Toy Plans How to Build a Children's Retro Washer + Dryer
Step 4

Cut the piece for the Front Bottom Apron. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes, facing the inside of the Washer/Dryer, in each side of the Front Bottom Apron. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Front Bottom Apron for The Design Confidential Free DIY Toy Plans How to Build a Children's Retro Washer + Dryer
Step 5

Cut the rough pieces for the Washer and Dryer Door. Mark the shape of each door, and cut them out with your jigsaw. Remember to drill pilot holes slightly larger than your jigsaw blade for the inside cuts.

Doors forThe Design Confidential Free DIY Toy Plans How to Build a Children's Retro Washer + Dryer
Step 6

Attach the 3” piano hinge on the straight side of the Door and position the Washer and Dryer Doors as shown. If desired, attach a knob for easy opening of each Door. Also, positioning a small magnet on the back of each Door and the Front can help keep the Doors closed.

Doors for The Design Confidential Free DIY Toy Plans How to Build a Children's Retro Washer + Dryer
Step 7

Next, cut your Plexiglas Door Window pieces. These pieces will cover the Washer and Dryer Door openings on the back, and overlap the Door openings by 1/2”. Use your Mirror Screws to secure the Windows into place. Be aware that you are screwing into 3/4” material and that you may have to use a shorter screw size in order to not entirely screw through the wood.

Window Glass for The Design Confidential Free DIY Toy Plans How to Build a Children's Retro Washer + Dryer
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the Drawer Stops. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” wood screws (through the underside of the Shelf or Bottom and through the Side).

Drawer Stops for The Design Confidential Free DIY Toy Plans How to Build a Children's Retro Washer + Dryer
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Filter and Soap Drawers. Cut a 1/2” diameter circle in the top center of the Drawer Fronts as shown. Since these pieces are so small, you will need to assemble with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Place Drawers into Drawer Openings.

Drawers for The Design Confidential Free DIY Toy Plans How to Build a Children's Retro Washer + Dryer
Step 10

For the Washer and Dryer Dials you could easily glue on retro styled kitchen timers. Another option would be to cut out a 2” circle from your 1/2” thick wood. Place the 2” circle as shown on the Front, and drill a hole in the center of this circle. Loosely secure the circle to the Front with a 2” long bolt and appropriately sized nut. This way, those little hands can still turn the dial.

Label the Dryer, Washer, Filter Drawer, and Soap Drawer. Next, paint pieces of the Washer and Dryer with accent colors and put those kids to work doing some laundry!

Dials and Labels for The Design Confidential Free DIY Toy Plans How to Build a Children's Retro Washer + Dryer
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Kiddos 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Dec
17
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a King Sized Canopy Bed
Project Details

I just love a good modern and substantial canopy bed, don't you? Good thing for these free diy furniture plans to build a canopy bed, eh? This is avtually a really simple build so if you are looking for something fast with big impact you can make, this might just be the perfect thing!

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a King Sized Canopy Bed

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$175-$200
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a King Sized Canopy Bed
Tools
Lumber
  •  8 - 4x4 at 8’ 
  • 14 – 2x8 at 8’
  • 7 – 2x4 at 8”
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 4x4 at 84” – Posts
  • 2 – 4x4 at 77” – Front and Back Frame
  • 2 – 4x4 at 94-1/4” – Frame Sides
  • 2 – 2x4 at 77” – Front and Back Top Rails
  • 2 – 2x4 at 94-1/4” – Top Rail Sides
  • 2 – 2x8 at 77” – Front and Back Platform
  • 2 – 2x8 at 94-1/4” – Platform Sides
  • 2 – 2x4 at 94-1/4” – Cleats
  • 1 – 2x4 at 94-1/4” – Center Support
  • 2 – 2x4 at 3-3/4” – Center Support Legs
  • 13 – 2x8 at 77” – Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Posts, Front and Back Frame, and Frame Sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Frame pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. At this point, the Bed is upside down so that it is easier to assemble. Make sure that the pocket holes will face the ceiling when the bed is turned right side up.

Top Posts for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a King Sized Canopy Bed
Step 2

Flip the piece over. Next, cut the pieces for the Front, Back and Side Top Rails. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Top Rail pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the floor when assembled. 

Top Rails for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a King Sized Canopy Bed
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Front, Back, and Side Platform pieces. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Platform pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure the pocket holes face the inside of the Bed when assembled. In addition to the pocket screws, you can use 2” wood screws to attach the Top Rails to the Platform pieces.

Platform for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a King Sized Canopy Bed
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Cleats. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Cleats. Assemble to the Platform Sides as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. In addition to the pocket screws, you can use 2” wood screws to attach the Cleats to the Platform.

Cleats for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a King Sized Canopy Bed
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Center Support and Center Support Legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top ends of the Center Support Legs and in each end of the Center Support. Attach the Center Support Legs to the Center Support with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Attach the Center Support to the Front and Back Platform pieces and assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Center Support for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a King Sized Canopy Bed
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Slats. Attach the Slats to the Cleats and assemble as shown with glue and 2” wood screws.

Slats for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a King Sized Canopy Bed
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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