Oct
13
2014
DIY Ram's Horn Shelf and Skeleton Taxidermy Display // Easy Halloween Decor Project

Tis the season, as they say, and with this easy project you will add just the right amount of haunt to your Halloween decor, in a snap. To create your own Ram's Horn Display Shelf, only a few items and a few minutes of your time are needed. This project is seriously that easy... if you love the look of taxidermy or horns, then this could easily be a project you create any time of year, it really isn't specific to Halloween!

Spooky Display for The Design Confidential DIY Ram's Horn Shelf and Skeleton Taxidermy Display // Easy Halloween Decor Project

MATERIALS // Shelf

/ 1x6 at 6 feet. I used a dog eared cedar fence board like this because they are really inexpensive!

/ 2 - 1 1/2" Right Angle Brackets

/ 1 1/4" Screws and Wall Anchors for Drywall

/ #6 3/8" Screws if using a fence board and #6 1/2" Screws if using a regular 1x6 board.

/ Gold Ram's Horns

/ Sandpaper

/ Finishing Supplies if you plan to paint or stain your shelf. I left mine natural.

INSTRUCTIONS //

/ Cut your board down to size. Something around or under 3 feet in length is best. Sand according to your intended finish. If you plan to leave natural, sand rough edges and you will obviously need to sand quite a bit more if you plan to stain or paint your shelf. Attach your right angle brackets approximately 4 to 6 inches in from the outside edges of your board (the longer your board, the further in you will place your brackets). The hardware will attach to the bottom your board and hang downward. Mark your holes on the wall where you plan to fasten your shelf (since you attached the brackets to the board already, this will be a snap) and then put your wall anchors in place according to the instructions on the package. Set the screw holes on your bracket hardware over the top of your wall anchors (which should be fairly flush to the wall once in place) and using the screws provided with your anchors, fasten your shelf in place.

/ You are going to place a 2 1/2" drywall screw just to the outside of each of your brackets and fairly close to the bottom of your board. You will not screw this in very far. It should protrude from your wall about 2 1/4" give or take.

/ Cut your horns apart (they likely have a clear cord that would sit around your head if you were using these properly - but we are not - so cut the cord my friends, or at least unsecure it. Holding your horns at the approximate location of your long screws, determine the angle you want them to sit and make a light mark on the top in this place to note the direction for our next step. Using an extra screw, create a small hole in the flat part of the horn that is fairly near the top edge, just below where you made your mark. You are going to use this hole to help you slide the horn over the top of your screw. It will rest on the screw and sit under your board, appearing as though it is the bracket for your shelf. ** You can use a bit of mounting tape or duck tape to stick your horn in place over your brackets so they will hide the hardware and also so they are not loose. You want them to sit nice and tight, right up against your board. 

That is it, you are finished! Place something light weight to display on your shelf!

Antler Display for The Design Confidential DIY Ram's Horn Shelf and Skeleton Taxidermy Display // Easy Halloween Decor Project

To mount my antler inside the frame, I simply used removable mounting putty on each point where it touches the wall. This baby is pretty secure over here, but if you expect small children to be in the vicinity (especially below a sharp pointy antler), perhaps you should secure using nylon finishing line and wrap around the hardware used to hang your frame.

DECOR SOURCES // Halloween Cat / Halloween Crow / Golden Horns

VINTAGE + OTHER ITEMS // Frame is Vintage / Table - Zinc Garden Table from Crate & Barrel - Similar Table Here and Exact Table For Sale By Owner Here / Stacking Candelabra - PotteryBarn - Similar Found Here and Here / Antlers found on eBay - Similar Here and Here / Gold + White Antler Wall Sculpture - Target Threshold Brand - this would work beautifully as well.

Oct
09
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Project Details

The Low Loft Bunk Bed Series is hands down our most popular series of project plans to date. Many of you have asked for a queen sized version of this fabulous sleeper and I am finally obliging! Yahoo. I have made a modification to the ladder in this plan, for both the orientation as well as the method of construction, to be more accomodating to adults and to allow for a more compact footprint.

The Deets
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Tools
Lumber
  • 4 - 4x4 at 6' Fence Posts - UNTREATED
  • 2 - 2x6 at 8'
  • 2 - 2x6 at 6'
  • 14 - 2x4 at 8'
  • 15 - 1x4 at 6' - if 8' boards are cheaper, buy those - you will have leftover scrap.
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 at 59" - Legs
  • 2 - 2x6 at 81" - Side Rails
  • 2 - 2x6 at 70" - Head / Foot Rails
  • 2 - 2x4 at 81" - Cleats
  • 4 - 2x4 at 81" - Upper Side Rails and Center Support Joists
  • 4 - 2x4 at 70" - Upper Head / Foot Rails
  • 1 - 2x4 at 59" - Front Guard Rai Ladder Leg
  • 4 - 2x4 at 8 3/4" - Lower Front Guard Rail Ladder Supports
  • 1 - 2x4 at 18" - Upper Front Guard Rail Ladder Supports
  • 2 - 2x4 at 55" - Guard Rail Side Upper Rails
  • 4 - 2x4 at 27" - Ladder Rungs
  • 15 - 1x4 at 67" - Slats
Instructions

**I recommend finishing your boards and posts prior to assembling and simply touching up later. This will make for easier painting and will keep you from having to paint this wherever this piece will actually live (bedroom) since you will have to assemble it in the area it will be placed (at 45 or more inches wide this will not fit through a doorway after it's assembled).

** This plan is designed to accomodate a Queen Sized Mattress at 66" x 80". If your mattress is a different size, you will need to adjust for this by adding or subtracting length to all pieces on the side you are adjusting. For example if your mattress is 68" wide then you will add 2" inches to every single width running dimension on the plans below (Head/Foot pieces). 

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut all 4 Legs to size and then notch out the sections shown in the image on one of the legs. You can use a jig saw, table saw or a circular saw to do this. Then attach the Cleats to the Side Rails using 2" Screws and be sure the bottom of the Side Rail and the Cleat are flush. You 

To attach the Rails to the Legs you will arrange the pieces as shown in the diagram below, making sure to leave 1 1/2" on either side of the ends of the Rails to allow for the Head and Foot Rails later. Clamp together making sure everything is completely square before you proceed. Once square and aligned as needed, you will use a 7/16" Drill Bit and drill through all 3 pieces on each side (the leg, rail and cleat), creating 2 holes on either side for the bolts that will secure this. 

Fasten with your Carriage Bolts and tighten.

Leg Dimensions and Side Rails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 2

Attach the Bed Rail Hardware to the Side Rails. You can secure the Lower Head and Foot Rails to the Legs using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" material and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

** Be sure you place your pocket holes in a location that doesn't interfere with the bed rail hardware. The Head and Foot Rails will sit flush with the outside of the Legs and with the Lower Side Rails. You can also skip pocket holes and use 3" Screws to secure these to the Side Rails if you prefer.

Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" material, to secure the Center Support Joists to the Head and Foot Rails with 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws. Then fasten the Upper Side Rails on one side of your bed (not the side that will have your ladder) to the Back Legs using 3" Screws. 

Upper Side Rails and Support Joists for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 3

Create your Guard Rail Leg Unit. This will be 2 - 2x4's, one long and the other cut into sections with spacing and dimensions as shown in the image. This will hold your ladder rungs later so just be sure that the separation between your shorter ladder supports will actually fit a 2x4 nice and snug. You need to fit it in place but you don't want any wiglle room so a tight fit is better than a slightly loose fit. Attach the Front Upper Side Rails to the Leg using 3" screws and attach to the Guard Rail Leg Unit using 2" Screws. 

Guard Rail Side Rails and Ladder Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 4

Attach the Upper Head Rails on the side opposite where you choose to put the ladder, in my example this would be the left side. Use 3" Screws and secure into the ends of the Upper Side Rails. 

Upper Head Rails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 5

Lay your Slats approximately 2" apart. Be sure the 2 on the outside edges are flush in both corners. Screw down using 1 1/4" Screws or Nails and fasten to both cleats and both support joists. 

Bed Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 6

Attach the remaining 2 upper Foot Rails to the Back Upper Side Rails and the Front Leg using a Pocket hole System (Kreg Jig) set for 1 1/2" materials and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the Rails to the front Leg. To fasten the Foot Rails to the Back Side you can either use Pocket Hole Screws and glue to connect them to the Back Leg or 3" Wood Screws and Glue, with a countersink bit to predrill and secure directly to the end of the Upper Side Rails. 

Slide the Ladder Rungs into place and secure with glue. You can choose to secure with 3" Wood Screws from the legs into the ends of the rungs, but this is optional and you can absolutely secure with glue and call it a day! 

Ladder Rungs and Upper Foot Rails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
24
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Project Details

I am so very excited to share this project with you today! You see, we are still in the warmer months out here in Northern California, but it is finally starting to cool down enough that we can actually enjoy some outdoor time. One of my favorite things to do, ever!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$125-$150
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Nail Gun
Lumber
  • 10 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 5 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 10 – 2x3 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 42-1/2” - Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 42-1/2” - Legs
  • 2 – 2x3 at 74” - Bottom Sides
  • 2 – 2x3 at 37” - Bottom Head and Foot
  • 2 – 2x2 at 75” – Outer Slat Supports
  • 2 – 2x3 at 75” – Inner Slat Supports
  • 20 – 1x4 at 39” – Slats
  • 2 – 2x3 at 37” - Top Head and Foot
  • 2 – 2x3 at 74” - Top Sides
  • 2 – 2x3 at 31” Roof Front Rafters
  • 2 – 2x3 at 29 ½” Roof Back Rafters
  • 1 – 2x2 at 74” - Roof Ridge Beam
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

** Notes: This bed will be hard to get through doorways once it is completely built. If you plan this for indoor use, you would be well served to build this in sections and then assemble in place. The sections I would build this in are 2 leg unit/sides: this would be a head and foot leg with side rail and there will be 2 of these for this bed, the floor: this would be the head and foot rails, slat supports and slats, and the roof: both pitches and the roof beam. The instructions below direct you to build these sections in this manner, so rather than attaching each section to the hardware as shown, you will build each section, move into place, and then secure each section to the hardware. Yahoo.

Step 1

Cut the lumber for the four Legs at the appropriate length. Each Leg will be composed of a 2x2 piece and a 2x3 piece. Set your Kreg Jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes as shown at the top of each 2x3 Leg. This will help you secure your roof pieces later.  Attach the 2x2 piece to the 2x3 piece with glue and 2” wood screws. Be sure to countersink for the best result.

Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Sides. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Sides and assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Note that the Bottom Side is attached to the 2x3 portion of the Leg. You will do this two times, once for each side of the project. Take note of the position of the legs here (the 2x3 versus the 2x2). Your second leg unit will mirror this and your pocket hole placement should be facing in toward your 2x2 leg pieces.

Note: The placement of this side rail is a bit subjective and flexible. You can place it higher as shown below if you want store things underneath (like the mattress during play or when not used as bed). If you only plan for one use, feel free to set this piece at 3” up from the bottom.

Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 3

Attach the connectors as shown by using provided screws. They will slide up and support the side rails and should attach where your side rails meet your leg units.

Note the direction of the connectors below. You will place the empty arm of your connector on the side of your leg unit where your 2x2 sits and away from the side rails themselves.

Lower Connectors and Leg units for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Head and Foot Rails and the 2x3 Inner Slat Supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Inner Slat Supports. Attach the Slat Supports to the Bottom Head and Foot with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Center Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 5

Build your floor: Cut the Slats. Note that the first and last Slat will be ½” shorter on each end - this will allow room for the hardware. Attach the Slats to the Inner Slat Supports as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws or you can use your nail gun and 1 1/4" brad nails. The first and last slat will be spaced about 1/8” from the Bottom Head and Foot Rails. The Slats will be spaced between 1/4” from each other.

Slats for Floor for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 6

Cut the 2x2 Outer Slat Supports. Attach the Outer Slats Supports to the Slats as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. (The Slat assembly has been flipped over in this graphic to better show how to line the pieces up.)

Outer Slat Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 7

Now things are really coming together for this piece! Place the slat assembly on top of the Legs/Bottom Sides/Connectors. Attach with provided connector hardware.

Floor Assembly for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 8

Next, attach the Upper Connectors to the Legs with the provided connector hardware. Note that the top of the connector will sit 1/2” above the top of the Legs.

Upper Connectors for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Upper Sides, Head and Foot. Assemble as shown by “nesting” the pieces into the connectors. Secure wood to the brackets by using the provided connector hardware.

Upper Rails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 10

This step will seem a tad tricky, but if you give yourself just a bit of wiggle room in your initial cut for this (2” or so will do it – cut at 33” and 31 ½”), then create your beveled ends and then adjust for length on the top which will be a standard straight cut, you will be just fine!

To create your beveled ends, you will lay your board flat and set against your fence, then tilt your saw blade to a 45⁰ angle. Note that tilt in this context does not mean turn but actually tilt. Your cut angle (the miter) will remain at 0 or 90⁰ depending on how your saw reads.

Make your first bevel cut, then flip the board over to the back side and made a second bevel cut 5/8” from the pointed edge. This will create a flat surface for your pitch to sit and will then carve off enough point to allow it to rest right inside your upper brackets!

Roof Pitch for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 11

The Roof Beam is simply a 2x2 that runs between your two A-Frame Roof Lines. You will connect all pieces as you see above, using the provided connector hardware, however this beam might also benefit from pocket hole screws on either end to secure it to the pitch in a secondary manner. The connector hardware will be plenty strong, but since we are using the hardware in a non-traditional manner here and it isn’t sitting underneath the beam, it never hurts to give your joints a bit of that something extra, just in case your kiddos get monkey bar bound!

Securing the Roof Ridge for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 12

To secure your roof section to your legs, fasten in place with those pocket holes you created in the legs early on! You can also secure from the top down into the legs using a countersink bit and 2” Wood Screws if you prefer. Just be sure to do this on the widest portion of leg unit you can so it doesn’t split apart your 2 boards that form those leg units or split your wood.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

TDC 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
11
2014
Builders Showcase // Chic Little House A Frame Plant Stand

I found plans online to build the A Frame Plant stand from The Design Confidential. I showed Hasani my ideas and he was on board! On Friday night we stopped in Lowes and picked our supplies.

Builders Showcase // Chic Little House A Frame Plant Stand
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Lumber Used 

We decided to use Select Pine for the project which was a lot nicer and a little more than using the regular pine.

Finishing Technique 

For this project I used the new stains from Rustoleum in Weathered Grey.

Builders Showcase // Chic Little House A Frame Plant Stand
Sep
02
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Project Details

If you liked the original Nova Sofa, but would love a bit more seating, this Sectional unit is just the ticket! Use the pieces from this collection either indoors or outside and it is equally as wonderful for both, perhaps just styled differently, no?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Tools
Lumber
  • 16 – 1x2 at 8’ (It may be cheaper to buy 2 – 1x6 at 8’ then rip them into 1x2 strips on the table saw)
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x10 at 6’
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x8 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22” – Legs
  • 1 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 23-1/2” – Leg
  • 1 – 2x6 (ripped to 6” wide) at 14” – Leg
  • 1 – 2x2 at 49-1/2” – Back Stretcher
  • 6 – 2x2 at 12-1/2” – Support Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 43-1/2” – Inner Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 52-1/2” – Upper Back
  • 4 – 2x2 at 22-1/2” – Seat Supports
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8” – Inner Side Slat Support
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 25-1/2” x 49-1/2” - Seat
  • 1 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22-1/2” – Arm
  • 1 – 1x3 at 48-3/4” – Inner Back Slat
  • 3 – 1x2 at 50-1/4” – Inner Back Slats
  • 1 – 1x3 at 23-1/4” – Inner Side Slat
  • 3 – 1x2 at 23-1/4” – Inner Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x3 at 30” – Side Slats
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6” – Side Slat
  • 15 – 1x2 at 30” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x2 at 6” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x3 at 54” – Back & Front Slats
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6” – Front Slat
  • 15 – 1x2 at 54” – Back & Front Slats
  • 3 – 1x2 at 6” – Front Slats
  • 1 – 1x10 (ripped to 7-1/2” wide) at 54” – Back Trim
  • 1 – 1x8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 31-1/2” – Left Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for two of the legs, two of the support legs, and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher, one end of the support legs, the top edge of the legs, and one long edge of the legs. (There will be a left and a right!) Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the remaining two back legs and drill pocket holes in the top edge only. Attach the inner back legs to the outer back legs (in an L shape) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut and Fasten Legs Supports and Stretchers using a Miter Saw and Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 2

Cut the pieces for two of the legs, two of the support legs, inner back stretcher and the upper back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher and the top edge of the support legs, then attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the upper back piece to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut and Fasten Legs Supports and Stretcher using Miter Saw and Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front legs, front support legs, and stretcher, and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher, one end of the support legs, and the top edge of the legs. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut and Attach Front Legs Supports and Stetcher using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the front and inner back stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the inner slat support and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the outer seat supports as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. They will be positioned ¾” away from the inner back legs.

Cut and Attach Seat Supports using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Cut and Attach Inner Slat Support using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw, then secure to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Notch Seat using Jig Saw for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Attach Seat using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the arm and drill pocket holes at each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes.

Cut and Fasten the Arm using Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the inner back slats. The 1x3 slat will be shorter than the 1x2 slats. Position the 1x3 slat between the inner back leg then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The 1x2s will be positioned between the inner back leg and the inner side slat support. Position the 1x2 slats with ½” spacing between them then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws through the support into the slats.

Cut and Attach Inner Back Slats using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the inner side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Attach Inner Side Slats using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the outer side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Attach Outer Side Slats using Wood Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the outer back slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the front slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut and Attach Outer Back Slats using Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Cut and Attach Front Slats using Glue and Brad Nails for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the trim. The angles on the trim are not pretty round numbers, but we can connect the dots to draw them. For the left side trim, measure 7-1/2” down from the outer top corner (your starting point) of the trim piece, make a mark, and draw a perpendicular line across the trim (the end of this line will be your ending point). Draw from your starting point to your ending point, and you will have your needed angle. Likewise for the top trim, measure 6” across from the top left corner (your starting point) of the trim piece, make a mark, and draw a perpendicular line across the trim (the end of this line will be your ending point). Draw from your starting point to your ending point, and you will have your needed angle.  For these angles to work, the chair needs to be square! Cut each a piece a little longer than the dimensions and play with the angles if necessary!

Cut and Fasten Trim for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Nova Outdoor Sectional Sofa using Kreg Jig and Pocket Hole Screws with a Drill or a Nail Gun
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Aug
25
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Project Details

Oh this piece of DIY Furniture might be one of my absolute faves! So utterly versatile and just the coolest... lay it flat to enjoy on your front side or snooze and when you feel like it, simply put it in one of several incline positions to lounge and chat! Isn't that amazing? Check out the images at the bottom to see how this gal moves and functions! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 5 – 1x3 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 75”– Main Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 29-1/2”– Main Frame Top and Bottom
  • 5 – 1x3 at 31” – Main Frame Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 19”– Middle Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 26”– Middle Frame Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 1x4 at 2-1/2”– Middle Frame Spacers
  • 4 – 1x3 at 27-1/2”– Middle Frame Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 30-1/4”– Upper Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1x4 at 27-1/2”– Upper Frame Top
  • 5 – 1x3 at 29” – Upper Frame Slats 
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the two Main Frame Sides. Drill a 1/2” hole 29” from one end of the Side and 1-3/4” from the top. Please note that all hole measurements will be TO the center of the hole. Drill another 1/2” hole 3” from the other end of the Side. Drill a series of 4 more holes in the same manner as shown, 3” on center and 1-3/4” from the top. You can drill more than 5 holes if you wish – this will give you even more adjustment opportunities! You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. If you feel confident, clamp the Main Frame Sides together and drill both holes at once through the pieces.

Outside Frame Hole Placement for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 2

Cut out the Main Frame Top and Bottom and attach to the Main Frame Sides as shown with glue and pocket screws. 

Outside Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 3

Cut out the Main Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Main Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 4

Next, cut out the Middle Frame Sides. Drill a 1/2” hole positioned 1-1/2” from each end and 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. Or you can clamp the Middle Frame Sides together and drill both holes at once through the pieces.

Mid Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 5

Cut and attach the Middle Frame Top and Bottom to the Middle Frame Sides as shown with glue and pocket screws. 

Middle Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 6

Next, cut the Middle Frame Spacers. Drill a 1/2” hole positioned 1-1/2” from the end and 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Spacer. Or you can clamp the Spacers together and drill both holes at once through the pieces. Align Spacers with the Sides so that the drilled holes match up and the edges are flush. Attach Spacers to the Middle Frame Sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Mid Frame Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 7

Cut out the Middle Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Mid Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 8

On to the last portion of the Futon! Cut the pieces for the Upper Frame Sides. Drill two 1/2” holes – one positioned 1-3/4” from one end, and the other 1-1/4” from the other end, both 1-3/4” from the top. You will need to repeat this step twice – once for each Side. Or you can clamp the Sides together and drill both holes at once through both pieces.

Upper Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 9

Next, cut the Upper Frame Top and secure to the Upper Frame Sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Upper Frame Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 10

Cut out the Upper Frame Slats and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Each Slat will be spaced 3” apart.

Upper Frame Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 11

This is where the piece really starts to take shape! Lay out the Main Frame on a flat surface. Place the Middle Frame and Upper Frame within the Main Frame as shown. Attach the Upper Frame to the Middle Frame by aligning the drilled holes and inserting the (2) 2” clevis pins and hitch pin clips on both sides. Attach the Middle Frame to the Main Frame by aligning the drilled holes and inserting the (2) 3” clevis pins and hitch pin clips on both sides. Use the (2) 2” clevis pins and hitch pin clips to secure the Upper Frame to the Main Frame in the desired adjustment holes. Add a cushion for extra comfort! After finishing, you might find it helpful to apply a coat of paste wax to the areas of the Futon that pivot and rub against each other. Large washers may also be used for extra reinforcement at the end of the clevis pins. Lastly, use a sander on edges if you want a more rounded, softer appearance. 

Clevis Pin Assembly for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Single Futon Chaise Lounge
Step 12

Check out how versatile this piece is! It can lay flat or incline to several positions. We’ve included a few more graphics for you to see this Futon in motion.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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