Jun
07
2011
Project Image

This is hands down our most popular piece in the Provence Collection, and with good reason…. it’s gorgeous, and super budget friendly, while the original is super duper pricey! This plan is constructed in almost the same manner as the original plan posted for the 10’ Provence Beam Dining Table, only this plan uses 4x4 beams for many of the pieces rather than a double stacked 2x4 that my original plans use. This will increase the cost slightly for the materials as you will need to purchase more specialized hardware, in addition to the beams themselves, but the savings on the retail price of this table will still be in the thousands! Yes you will save thousands on this Knock-Off since it will cost you just over $100 to build and the original is $4000!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Drill and **drill bit with hex socket for lag screws
  • Kreg Jig
  • Miter Saw
Lumber
  • 4 – 4x4 at 8’
  • 6 - 2x4 at 8'
  • 4 – 2x10 at 10’
Materials
  • 5” Lag Screws
  • 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
  • 3” Wood Screws
  • 2 1/2” Wood Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x10 at 120” Table Top
  • 4 – 4x4 at 27 7/16" (Legs)  
  • 1 – 4×4 at 87 1/2″ Bottom Cross Beam
  • 2 – 4×4 at 23 5/8″ Leg Stretchers 
  • 2 – 4×4 at 29 1/16″ Table Trusses
  • 2 – 2x4 at 31 1/2” Top Supports 
  • 5 – 2×4 at 87 1/2″ Table Braces and Upper Cross Beams
Instructions

** This table is ideal for use with reclaimed materials and it might save you a bit on cost if you decide to go that route. I would look at local ReStore locations and the like to find what you need!

**If this will be for outdoor use, consider using a specie of wood that does well in an outdoor setting. Not required, but will make for a longer lasting piece that won’t need to be refinished or sealed as frequently Those options might include Cedar, Redwood, and Teak.

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build the Leg Bases: You will build 2 of these, exactly the same. 

The Legs will be cut at a 10° Angle (off center) and since a 4x4 is square, you can miter or bevel at your choosing. The outside toe of each leg will be lined up with the outside of the Top Supports. To secure the legs to the Top Support, use your 3” screws to secure down through the Top Supports and into each leg with 4 screws per leg. Be sure to countersink so there isn’t an issue with the additional pieces in the table frame laying flat. For securing the leg supports, use your 5" lag screws. I would secure with 3 lag screws per leg in a triangular pattern. 

 

Step 2

Cut the Pieces for the Table Top: it will be comprised of 4 – 2×10′s spaced 1/2″ apart for proper water run off if for outdoor use (not necessary if for indoor use or dry climate)

Step 3

Fasten the Center Braces (Top and Bottom): Use your 5” lag screws to secure the Bottom Brace to the Leg Stretchers. Use your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to secure your Top Brace to the Top Support. 

Step 4

Cut and Fasten the Table Trusses. These will sit at a 45° Angle and will be cut at a 45° Angle .  Secure to the Top Center Brace using 3” wood screws in the same manner you secured the top Support in Step 1. Use 5” Lag screws to secure to the Bottom Cross Beams.

Step 5

Build out the remainder of the Frame: Use your Kreg Jig on a 1 1/2″ stock setting and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue, and fasten the remaining 4 cross beams.

Step 6

Attach your Table Top Boards: Use 2 1/2" Wood Screws and secure from underneath and up through the Cross Beams and Top Supports

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

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Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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