Free Furniture Plans to Build a Restoration Hardware Inspired 10′ Provence Beam Dining Table

08.17.10 By //
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build An Outdoor Provence Beam Dining Table via @thedesconf

This table is a beauty, and coming in at 120″ in length, should serve for most of your entertaining needs. Have I mentioned that this is extremely inexpensive as far as tables are concerned? Yep that’s right…coming in at under $75 in supplies (may vary by geography), I would say so…especially since the original sell for slightly under $4000!

Below are the other plans for variations of this table and plans for the benches!

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Provence Beam Benches

Free Furniture Plans to Build a Restoration Hardware Inspired Provence Beam Dining with 4×4’s

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an 8′ Provence Beam Dining Table

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build An Outdoor Provence Beam Dining Table via @thedesconf

This collection is actually meant for outdoor use and has board spacing to accommodate water run off or potential weather issues that may arise. This would be equally as fabulous indoors, or perhaps even more fabulous because you could use it more frequently! This plan has been modified for ease of building and readily available materials and is in no way affiliated with the above mentioned specialty retailer.

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!


  • 4 – 2×10 at 10′
  • 13 – 2×4 at 10′
  • 4 – 2×10 at 120″ (Table Top)
  • 8 – 2×4 at 27 7/16″ (Legs)
  • 2 – 2×4 at 31 1/2″ (Top Supports)
  • 5 – 2×4 at 87 1/2″ (Table Braces and Upper Cross Beam)
  • 2 – 2×4 at 88″ (Bottom Cross Beams)
  • 4 – 2×4 at 23 5/8″ (Leg Stretchers)
  • 4 – 2×4 at 29 1/16″ (Table Trusses)

**The original uses large beams for the legs and supports. I have chosen to draw this plan using mainly 2×4’s for their ease of use, cost, and availability. When you are finished building, you can fill the seams between the boards and sand flush to give the appearance of larger beam construction.

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Build the Leg Bases: You will build 2 of these, exactly the same.

The Legs will be cut at a 10° Angle (off center) and depending on which direction you choose to ‘stack’ them will either be a miter or a bevel. The diagram for this step shows the legs stacked so that you would miter rather than bevel, but if you want to turn them, simply bevel instead! The outside toe of each leg will be lined up with the outside of the Top Supports. To secure you can either use your 3” screws to secure down through the Top Supports and into each leg or you can use your Kreg Jig and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to secure each leg to the top support. I would secure with 4 screws per leg in a square layout and at an angle if possible. Be sure to countersink so there isn’t an issue with the additional pieces in the table frame laying flat. Secure the Bottom Support using your Kreg Jig and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. You can choose to secure the outside piece first, with pocket holes facing inward, then the inside piece will cover those. When you secure the inside piece, simply place your pocket holes on the inside of the leg unit.

Create the Table Top: it will be comprised of 4 – 2×10’s spaced 1/2″ apart for proper water run off and outdoor use (not necessary for indoor use or dry climate – optional).

Fasten the Center Braces (Top and Bottom): Use your 5” lag screws or your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to secure your Bottom Brace to the Bottom Support and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to fasten your Top Brace to your Top Support.

Cut and Fasten the Table Trusses. These will sit at a 45° Angle and will be cut at a 45° Angle .  Secure to the Top Center Brace using 3” wood screws in the same manner you secured the top Support in Step 1. Use 5” Lag screws or 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to secure to the Bottom Cross Beams.

Build out the remainder of the Frame: Use your Kreg Jig on a 1 1/2″ stock setting and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue, and fasten the remaining 4 cross beams.

Attach your Table Top Boards: Use 2 1/2″ Wood Screws and secure from underneath and up through the Cross Beams and Top Supports

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. / Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

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