The perfect outdoor bistro barstool! Works beautifully with the bistro table we posted yesterday!
Showcase: Built From These Plans
Chesapeake Bar & Stools
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the back legs according to the drawing.
Cut the pieces for the front legs and the aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons. Attach to the legs as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. Cut the bevel in one end as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom of the stretcher. Secure to the front and back legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws with the pocket holes facing down.
Cut the pieces for the back slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws with the front faces flush with the front face of the legs.
Cut the piece for the center support. Attach to the center of the front and back aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The support will be positioned ¾” down from the top of the seat to allow for the seat slats.
Cut the pieces for the seat supports. Attach to the aprons using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Locate the supports ¾” down from the top of the seat to allow for the slats.
Cut the pieces for the seat slats. In one piece only, cut ¾” x ¾” notches in one long edge only to allow for the legs. Attach the slats to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the slats into the supports. There will be ½” spacing between each slat.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
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