I’m excited to try and finish out the Chesapeake Collection of outdoor furniture! It’s been hands down one of our most popular, and with good reason… it’s fabulous! A little for projects that might make Father’s Day weekend and tad more enjoyable… just sayin’!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 3 – 2×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
- One half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- Edge banding
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 40-3/4” – Legs
- 4 – 1×3 at 22” – Aprons
- 4 – 2×2 at 22” – Lower Braces
- 7 – 1×3 at 18-3/8” – Top Slats
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 38” in diameter – Top
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs.
Cut the pieces for the aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons. Also drill one pocket hole in the center of each apron to attach the top. Attach to the legs with the outside face flush with the outside faces of the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the lower braces. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the legs as shown (12” from the bottom of the leg) using glue and 2” pocket hole screws with the pocket holes facing down.
Cut the piece for the table top. Draw a 38” diameter circle on the plywood and cut out with a jigsaw. Apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood.
Mark the center and draw an 18-3/8” x 18-3/8” square in the center of the table. Cut out with a jigsaw.
Cut the slats for the top. The first and last slats will be positioned approximately 1/16” from the edge of the square opening. The rest of the slats will be spaced 1/8” apart.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.