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Builders Showcase: Corner Sawhorse Shelf02|21|13
Materials if I had to purchase today;
2-1X8X8 (few knots for character)
2-1X6X8 (few knots for character)
1-qt wood conditioner
1-box #8 1 1/4" screws
1-small Gorilla glue
$70 give or take
Length of Time:
As I am also working in my office and did not devote all the time necessary to complete in one swoop the unit was completed over a period of a month. Looking back I would have to say if you did not have to do re-engineering, had the correct tools and did have the time it would take between 12 and 15 hours to complete. (drying time included)
Finish was; Minwax wood conditioner 1 coat, Minwax Special Walnut 2 coats, 2 coats Minwax satin polyurethane, our baseboards and beams all the same color. (color suit to match)
All pieces were sanded using first 220 grit then 400, dust blown off all pieces (don't use tack cloth! It has a wax that will fill in the wood pores) Minwax conditioner (not always necessary) used then 2 coats of Special Walnut applied wiped and set to dry. (2 coats of poly added after stain dried).
Additional Project Details:
The top of the 80/90 degrees wedges, was 7/8" not 13/16
Back legs; 1-1X3X72, 1-1X2.25X72 you have to make an allowance for wood overlap in order for shelves to be 90degrees at rear and flush at the front.
Start with front legs measuring be at 74" (trimmed out due to slope in our floor, if floor is level use a square on unit bottom to align and trim if necessary)
Added top shelf instead of rounding corners (more room for wife's nick-nacks)
I drilled and attached side rails to one side, then using the first side as a pattern I built the 2nd one (remember the 3/4ths inch difference when aligning, align fronts). I used Gorilla glue and clamped as I do not own a Kreg unfortunately. Use extra 90/80 degree scrap blocks to attach the clamps.
Once ready I aligned and clamped the two sections, drilled using a counter sink bit and attached together with screws. It was at this point I trimmed the front legs. Measurements for the 5 shelves were made and re-checked, 1/4th inch depth was added to the fronts for insurance. Having extra pine I glued and clamped pieces together, plywood would have been easier but much more expensive plus had to add a pine front piece to make them look good.
I have a small Tablesaw which made the 80degree front angles very difficult to cut. I managed the first three with no problem The last, three I attached to the back pieces and using a straight edge marked the shelf tops and bottoms. (due to the angled front pieces on the frame) Using the straight edge again, I clamped each shelf for the offset of my circular saw and set the angle for 80 degrees. (watch out there is a difference between a right hand and a left hand saw) as to which side to cut from, use a piece of scrap!
The shelves were clamped in place and aligned with the rails. Holes drilled and counter sunk through the side pieces and into the shelves. (not attached yet)
Once dry each shelf piece was carefully placed from top down, screwed to the sides. (did not glue)
Once again, not having a Kreg, I made plugs for the rear holes and inserted them.(not really necessary for functionality or looks as the back faces the wall)