Jan
12
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Project Details

First came the Fretwork Screen and then came the bed... then came the baby in a baby carriage. Ha, wonder if I am subconsciously creating plans for a little love nest slash staycation. This plan is for a King Sized Bed and if you adore this and yet would like it in another size, feel free to comment on this plan and let me know or post in our Community pages and tag your discussion with Project Request. It is helpful to keep track of the requests this way. Yahoo... Xx... Rayan

The Deets
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$200-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Tools
Lumber
  • 15 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 5 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 3 – 4x4 at 8’ 
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 4x4 at 14-1/2” – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – 2x4 at 78” – Footboard Frame
  • 2 – 4x4 at 52-1/2” – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – 4x4 at 85” – Headboard Top
  • 1 – 2x4 at 78” – Headboard Frame
  • 2 – 2x4 at 82” – Frame Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 78” – Slat Supports
  • 1 – 2x4 at 78” – Headboard Bottom
  • 1 – 1x2 at 84” – Center Support
  • 2 – 2x4 at 10” – Center Support Legs
  • 1 – 1x4 at 14-1/8” – First Front Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x3 at 42-7/16” – Second Front Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x4 at 47-3/4” – Third Front Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x4 at 47-3/4” – Fourth Front Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x3 at 42-7/16” – Fifth Front Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x4 at 11-5/16” – Sixth Front Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x4 at 19-13/16” – First Back Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x4 at 36-3/4” – Second Back Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x3 at 45-15/16” – Third Back Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x3 at 47-3/4” – Fourth Back Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x4 at 47-3/4” – Fifth Back Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x4 at 47-3/4” – Sixth Back Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x3 at 38-15/16” – Seventh Back Fretwork Piece
  • 1 – 1x3 at 12” – Eighth Back Fretwork Piece
  • 15 – 1x3 at 79-3/4” – Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the Footboard Frame and Footboard Legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in both ends of the Footboard Frame. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Footboard for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Step 2

Cut out the Headboard Frame, Headboard Top, and Headboard Legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in both ends of the Headboard Frame and in the top ends of the Headboard Legs. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Headboard for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Frame Sides and Slat Supports. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Frame Sides and attach to Headboard Legs and Footboard Legs with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Attach the Slat Supports to the Frame Sides using glue and 1-1/2” countersunk wood screws, leaving 2” at each end for the bed hardware. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Frame Sides for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Step 4

Cut the piece for the Headboard Bottom. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Headboard Bottom and attach with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Headboard Bottom for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Center Support and Center Support Legs. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Center Support and in the top ends of the Center Support Legs.  Attach the Center Support Legs to the Center Support as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Attach the Center Support to the Headboard Frame and Footboard Frame as shown with 2-1/2” pocket screws. Do not use glue!

Center Support and Legs for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Center Support Fastened in Place for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Step 6

Cut the Front Fretwork Pieces. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Front Fretwork Pieces.  Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Front Fretwork Pieces for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Step 7

Cut the Back Fretwork Pieces. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Back Fretwork Pieces.  Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Back Fretwork Pieces for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Step 8

Cut the Slats. Position the Slats on top of the Slat Supports and secure using countersunk 1-1/2” screws. Do not use glue!

Bed Slats for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a King Sized Fretwork Bed
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jan
10
2015
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Emerson Bed Spin-Off

The whole bed project started out with the purchase of a new queen size latex mattress from a local company called Cozy Pure. They have a few locations on the east coast and their beds are simply amazing.

With that being said, we needed a bed frame that used slats instead of a box spring like our previous King Koil mattress. Also worth noting, our previous mattress and box spring was around 30" tall so we wanted to stick around the same height.

Lastly, we wanted to make a few subtle changes to the overall look. It was more of a last minute idea that popped in my head to make the build a little more manageable for an amateur woodworker like myself.

As stated above, we wanted the bed to be close to 30" tall like our previous setup. I made some adjustments to the overall height of the headboard and the footboard. I also raised the slat support as well to give additional height to the bed.

From what I can remember off the top of my head:

  • 23 - 1x6 tongue and groove boards (4.98/ea) - $115
  • 2 - untreated 4x4x8 (9.94/ea) - $20
  • 2 - 1x8x8 ($6.64/ea) - $13
  • 2 - 1x6x6 (7.25/ea) - $14.50
  • 15 - 1x3x6 ($4.21/ea) - $63.50
  • 1 - no mortise bed rail - $12.50
  • 2 - 1x6x6 (headboard/footboard tops)($7.25/ea) - $14.50

So I'm right under $300 for this bed. I could have saved even more money had I not used the select pine from HD/Lowes but it's so much nicer to not have to deal with the knots in certain areas. Plus most of the time you have better luck at finding straighter pieces. The major downside is each piece is about twice as much.

Reader Project in Master Bedroom for The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Emerson Bed Spin-Off
Estimated Cost 

As stated from above, it was around $300 after the paint, primer and materials. I also purchased the kreg jig which added another $100 to the build but that is a tool that I have fallen in love with.

Needless to say, this bed still cost a fraction of what it would have if I purchased it through a retailer.

Length of Time 

Total time was about 2-3 days. The longest part was waiting for the paint and poly to dry. Cutting and setting everything up was straight forward and simple.

Modifications 

The bed height was increased, the headboard/footboard material was changed as well. This was simply for aesthetic reasons.

The clearance between the floor and the bed rail is 10". This will allow for a future build of under bed storage.

I also added a middle slat support under the bed with an additional leg mid-way. This made the bed feel way more rigid and added extra support for the slats. I highly recommend doing this. It's going to help eliminate any sag in the future.

To add the mid-rail support, just buy (2) 2x4 hurricane ties (at least that is what I have called them) from Lowes or Home Depot ($.97/ea) and a untreated 2x4 ($3/ea) and put it in the middle of the bed rails. Make the mid-rail barely touch the slats. To add the mid-rail leg I just simply used some scrape 1x6 I had and did two offset legs screwed into the 2x4. Nothing fancy but works like a dream.

Lumber Used 

This build was all pine. The headboard and footboard is tongue and groove 1x6x8 boards. The posts are untreated 4x4x8 I found from Lowes.

Finishing Technique 

I'll be honest, I'm impatient and finishing is something I need to slow down on as well as become more advanced. We originally thought about doing a stain but quickly changed the idea to paint for simplicity reasons. My fear with the stain was the different types/looks of pine. Some of the wood had knots while some of it did not.

We ended up going with basic latex paint and a poly coat. We really couldn't find anything online that said whether or not latex was ok to use for this type of project. I guess only time will tell.

Word of advice, if you use the tongue and groove boards, don't sand mid-way through painting or putting on poly UNLESS you has sanded all of the boards smooth once assembled. I ran into the issue of sanding down the high spots (on accident) after applying multiple coats of paint and poly. It was bound to happen and it was just something I didn't think about until after I sanded.

I was also using 80 grit on the rough boards, then jumped to 120 grit and finished off with 220. When sanding the poly I used 220 as well but found it kind of worthless in the end. The finished didn't need to be perfect and I ended up saving time by not sanding the last coat of poly. I would assume this would be more important over a stain but over latex paint it's fine.

Oh and I used a water based latex. The bed sees a good amount of sun during the day through double windows and oil-based latex turns yellow over time. So thanks to Google, it was advised to use water-based poly.

Additional Project Details 

Only thing I "dislike" or need to address with the bed is the no mortise bed rails. I really dislike them because they aren't the tightest fit and allow for play (aka the bed can rock a little). I also ended up shimming beside the bed rail hardware (on the inside so you can't see it) and that helps a little. It could be better but it's not a deal breaker.

Jan
07
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Fretwork Folding Screen
Project Details

Our first plan of the new year! Yahoo. I am all about tackling those lingering projects at the moment- there will be no more procrastinating because projects multiply like bunnies around here. Truly, I am completely overwhelmed with all of the 'stuff' I have and need to keep on hand for this amazing biz-ness of mine, but I am ready to simplify and focus on only those things I really truly need to complete or better my spaces. If you need a little something to define a space in your home, but don't want to block light or make your space feel smaller, this is the perfect plan for you. Right now I would like to have two of these to close myself off from my crazy toddler - mama needs a moment of silence to mourn the sweet little baby that he used to be right before he became the most adorable demon seed babe in the whole wide world, eek!  Xx... Rayan

The Deets
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Fretwork Folding Screen

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$100-$150
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Fretwork Folding Screen
Tools
Lumber
  • 11 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 6 – 1x2 at 22” – Frame Top and Bottom
  • 6 – 1x2 at 67” – Frame Sides
  • 3 – 1x4 at 16-1/4” – First Front Piece
  • 3 – 1x2 at 31-1/2” – Second Front Piece
  • 3 – 1x4 at 31-1/2” – Third Front Piece
  • 3 – 1x2 at 31-1/2” – Fourth Front Piece
  • 3 – 1x4 at 24-1/16” – Fifth Front Piece
  • 3 – 1x4 at 12” – First Back Piece
  • 3 – 1x2 at 31-1/2” – Second Back Piece
  • 3 – 1x4 at 31-1/2” – Third Back Piece
  • 3 – 1x4 at 31-1/2” – Fourth Back Piece
  • 3 – 1x2 at 31-1/2” – Fifth Back Piece
  • 3 – 1x4 at 9-7/8” – Sixth Back Piece 
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the Frame Top, Bottom, and Sides. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the both ends of the Sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Build the Frame for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Fretwork Folding Screen
Step 2

Cut out the Front Pieces. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the both ends of the Front Pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. The Front Pieces will be flush with the front side of the Frame. All pieces will be cut at a 45 degree angle.

Assemble Front Pieces for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Fretwork Folding Screen
Step 3

Cut out the Back Pieces. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the both ends of the Back Pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. The Back Pieces will be flush with the back side of the Frame. All pieces will be cut at a 45 degree angle. Repeat Steps 1-3 two more times to create a total of three Screens.

Assemble Back Pieces for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Fretwork Folding Screen
Step 4

Next, let’s place the hinges on one Screen. On this Screen – which will be the middle screen - place three hinges on each outside edge of the Frame as shown. On one side, the hinges will be lined up with the front of the Frame, and on the other side, the hinges will be lined up with the back of the Frame.

Fasten the Hinges for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Fretwork Folding Screen
Step 5

Attach all three Screens together, with the hinged Screen in the center. “Fold” the screen into a shape that allows it to stand on its own.

Attach all 3 Screens for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Fretwork Folding Screen
Step 6
Step 7
Step 8
Step 9
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Aug
24
2014
Reader Showcase // Emerson Queen Size Bed

Thank you TDC - My wife and I were able to build a beautiful bed and feel good about not spending $2K! The directions were easy to follow, and the result came out amazing. 

Modifications 

We made a few modifications to the plans - Replacing the plywood headboard with stained pine barn door slats and replacing wood clete with a metal bracket to hold lower support.

Reclaimed Lumber for Reader Showcase // Emerson Queen Size Bed
Finished Build for Reader Showcase // Emerson Queen Size Bed
Close Up and Finish for Reader Showcase // Emerson Queen Size Bed
Aug
18
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Project Details

I think a Side Table with storage is a perfectly versatile and adaptable piece of furniture. You might use this gorgeous gal as a nightstand, or next to your sofa, and perhaps to create a fabulous design moment on an otherwise empty wall. Mix it up and try this cute friend in a space you might not typically put a side table. You just might love it... Xx... Rayan 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 - 3/4” sheet of plywood at 4’ x 8’  
  • 1 - 3/4” sheet of plywood at 2’ x 4’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 22” x 20” – Table Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 20” x 19” – Table Sides  
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20-1/2” x 17-1/2” – Table Back
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 6” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Dividers
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20” x 20-1/2” – Table Top
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 20-3/4” x 22” – Finished Table Top
  • 4 – 2x4 at 3-1/2” x 11-1/4” – Table Legs      
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12” – Front and Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 10” – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Top Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 2-3/4” x 16-1/2” – Top Drawer Sides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 3-1/2” – Top Drawer Frontsand Backs
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 22” x 4-3/4” – Top Drawer FinishedFront  
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/2” x 4-3/4” – Bottom Drawer Sides
  • 4 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/2” x 5-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Fronts and Backs
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 22” x 6-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Finished Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the Table Bottom and Sides and attach as shown with glue and pocket screws. 

Cabinet Sides and Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 2

Cut out the Table Back and attach as shown to the Table Sides and Bottom with glue and pocket screws. When the Back is in place, it will leave a 3/4” space at the top for the Table Top.

Side Table Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 3

Cut out the Drawer Dividers and attach as shown on the front edge of the Table Sides with glue and pocket screws. There will be a 4-3/4” space above the Top Drawer Divider and a 6” space above and below the Bottom Drawer Divider.

Side Table Drawer Dividers for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 4

Cut and attach the Table Top to the Table Sides and Table Back with glue and pocket screws. The back of the Table Top will rest on top of the Table Back.

Side Table Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 5

Cut and attach the Finished Table Top to the Table Top as shown with glue and pocket screws. The front of the Finished Table Top will have a 3/4” overhang. 

Finished Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 6

Time to cut out the Table Legs! You will need 4 of these exactly the same. This diagram shows you how to mark out the shape you need for the Table Legs. Use your circular saw to cut this out. If you simply connect the dots between the dimensions outlined below and use a circular saw to make these cuts, you won't have to worry about the actual angle for each corner.

Leg Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Stretchers. Cut a 45 degree angle in each end of the long Stretchers and the short Stretchers. Also drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece (to attach to the bottom of the Table). Secure to the Legs (the top of the Stretchers will be flush with the top of the Legs) using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Side Table Base Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 8

Position the base frame on the bottom of the Table. It will be located 5” in from each side, and 3-1/2” from the front edge. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Bottom Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 9

And now on to the drawers!

  • Cut the pieces for the Top Drawer Bottom and Sides and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
  • Cut and attach the Top Drawer Front and Back Pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

  • Cut and attach the Top Drawer Front to the Drawer Box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The Front will extend 1” above the Drawer Box on the top, 1-1/4” on the sides, and 1/4” on the bottom. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the Drawer Box to help it slide smoothly. Add drawer hardware such as a pull or knob if desired.

 

Top Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Top Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Top Drawer Face for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Step 10

The next three steps will be repeated twice, since this project has two lower drawers of the same size.

  • Cut the pieces for Bottom Drawer Bottoms and Sides and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
  • Cut and attach the Bottom Drawer Fronts and Back Pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

  • Cut and attach the Bottom Drawer Finished Fronts to the Drawer Boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The Fronts will extend 3/4” above the Drawer Boxes on the top, 1-1/4” on the sides, and 1/4” on the bottom. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the Drawer Box to help it slide smoothly. Add drawer hardware such as a pull or knob if desired.

Bottom Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Bottom Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Bottom Drawer Face for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Mid Century Modern Side Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Aug
15
2014
Reader Showcase // Steppe Dresser for our New Baby!

With a baby on the way, we realized we need some more furniture, pronto. Here's what I built.

Drawers and In Progress Shot for Reader Showcase // Steppe Dresser for our New Baby!
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

About $275

Length of Time 

Two Weeks

Modifications 

Slightly taller drawer boxes, walnut fronts with wood drawer pulls.

Lumber Used 

Birch Ply & Walnut

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