West Elm

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

We covered the plans to build the table here and now the benches! Yahoo... Materials listed are to build two benches, even better, right? Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x3 at 4’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 6 – 2x6 at 8’
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 8 – 2x6 at 16-7/16” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x4 at 16-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 4 – 2x3 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 4 – 2x4 at 16-1/2” – Seat Ends
  • 6 – 2x6 at 68” – Seat Planks
  • 4 – 2x2 at 33-7/8” – Truss
  • 2 – 1x2 at 36-3/4” – Stretcher
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles in the legs as shown using a jigsaw, miter saw, or circular saw. Note that the angles are NOT cut at 45 degrees. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each leg. There will be two left legs and two right legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 stretcher. Assemble the sides as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The 2x3 stretchers will be perpendicular to the ground and will not follow the angle of the legs while the 2x4 stretcher will rest on top of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Position the seat as shown and secure using countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the upper side stretcher into the bottom of the seat.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the trusses. Cut the angles and the notches as shown. Position in the center of the lower stretcher and secure using toenailed 2-1/2” screws through the truss into the stretcher, as well as through the truss into the top on the underside.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the stretcher. Center on the trusses and secure using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans and How to Build a Wooden Truss Dining Table! This gal is gorgeous and might just lend her design to a table I will be building... we shall see! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 8 – 2x6 at 8’
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x6 at 28-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 38-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x3 at 32-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x4 at 38-1/2” – Seat Ends
  • 7 – 2x6 at 86” – Seat Planks
  • 2 – 2x2 at 47-1/8” – Truss
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles in the legs as shown using a jigsaw, miter saw, or circular saw. Note that the angles are NOT cut at 45 degrees. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each leg. There will be two left legs and two right legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 stretcher. Assemble the sides as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The 2x3 stretchers will be perpendicular to the ground and will not follow the angle of the legs while the 2x4 stretcher will rest on top of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Position the top as shown and secure using countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the upper side stretcher into the bottom of the seat.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the trusses. Cut the angles and the notches as shown. Position in the center of the lower stretcher and secure using toenailed 2-1/2” screws through the truss into the stretcher, as well as through the truss into the top on the underside.

Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Emmerson Nightstand! This collection is perfect for those of you who like a modern profile and also for those of you who prefer a more bohemian or even rustic profile! Finish your piece with stain in a striped pattern to reflect the original design more closely, or give this baby a shiny lacquer finish and some rockin' knobs and call it a day! Love! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 1x3 at 3’ (or scraps)
  • 1 – 1x6 at 2’ (or scraps)
  • 1 – 1x8 at 6’
  • One quarter sheet of ¼” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • One set of 14” drawer slides
  • Drawer pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x6 at 11” –Base
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 20-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – 1x3 at 15” – Base Stretchers
  • 2 - ¾” plywood at 15” x 17-3/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 20-1/2” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 17-3/4” x 22” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/4” x 22” – Top
  • 2 – 1x8 at 12-1/2” – Drawer Box
  • 2 -1x8 at 19-1/2” – Drawer Box
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 14” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/8” x 20-1/4” – Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Apply optional edge banding to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each base piece. Also drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom to attach the sides. Position the base pieces on the bottom as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the base stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the bottom and existing base pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece to attach the top. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in each edge. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws orienting the pocket holes down toward the bottom. The shelf will be set ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. 

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Attach to the drawer box using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, go here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the drawer front. There will be a 1/8” gap at the bottom and sides. For another easy tutorial, go here. Attach the drawer pull.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by gazelle /
Project Image

This project was very easy to follow. I modified the measuremnts to build a queen bed frame instead. I got a little bit confused at some point and ended up with the sides overlapping the head and foot, but it's still looked pretty good, I wish I had payed attention to this detail though.

The wood I used was poplar, finished twice with wipe-on poly, one coat of minwax cherry stain and protective wax for the final finish (sanding with 220 grit paper between coats).

Built From These Plans: 
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Chunky Leg King Bed Frame
Estimated Cost: 

$150 Includes all the wood, stain and hardware.

Length of Time: 

One weekend

Modifications: 

If you want to build a queen bed instead just cut the head and foot at 61 1/2" and the sides at 80"

Lumber Used: 

Poplar for the outside and pine for the slats and slat support.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Velloso Coffee Table! How to make this beauty with her fabulous angles and worldly charm. I can't wait to see you give this a try and how you choose to finish it! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x3 at 4’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 1 – half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 2” screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 19” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 12-1/8” – Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x3 at 22” – Top Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/4” x 41” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 25” x 44” – Top
  • 2 – 2x2 at 22” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 2x2 at 44” – Top Frame
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the leg frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end of the smaller pieces. Cut the angles in the 2x3 pieces as shown by marking the lines on the lumber and cutting on the line. Attach the legs to each other using countersunk 2-1/2” screws through each piece. Attach the stretcher as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretcher will be flush with the outside faces of the legs.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top supports. Center the pieces on the leg frames and secure using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Cut the piece for the shelf. Secure to the stretchers on the leg frames using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top and the frame. Attach the frame pieces to the underside of the top using glue and countersunk 2” screws.

Position the top on the leg frames. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the underside of the top of the leg frames into the top.

Step 3
Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

I really love the modern clean lines of this collection, makes it so versatile allowing it to blend with almost any existing decor and furnishings... LOVE that! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 - sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Door pulls
  • Magnetic catches for the doors
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 12” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 17” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 2x2 at 43” – Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 43” – Shelf
  • 2 – 1x3 at 15-1/2” – Inner Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 at 43” – Inner Frame
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 19-1/4” x 46” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 19-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 44-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 18-1/2” – Divider
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 22-15/16” – Doors

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and side frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the shelf. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.   Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the lower stretchers.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the inner frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces, as well as one long edge of each piece to attach the bottom. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the frame to the inside of the side frames and stretchers using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the inner frame will be flush with the bottom of the stretchers and side frames. (It will be 1” higher than the stretchers and side frames)

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the bottom and secure to the inner frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the bottom. The back edge of the bottom will be flush with the back of the base frame.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes as shown. Note that the divider is not centered in the cabinet, though it can be centered if desired. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides, back, and divider into the bottom.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the doors. Attach the hinges to the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the magnetic catches according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Emmerson Queen Bed

Headboard, Footboard, and Sides can be stained in a striped pattern to mimic slats…

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • Two sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 4x4 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 15 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • One set of Bed Rail Brackets
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 4x4 at 46” – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 38” x 56” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 1x4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 56” – Headboard/Footboard Top
  • 2 – 4x4 at 15-1/2” – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 56” – Footboard Panel
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 81” – Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 77” – Slat Supports
  • 17 – 1x3 at 61-1/2” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Apply optional edge banding to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs  and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of thepanel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the footboard legs  and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the panel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and the slat support. Attach the slat supports to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws leaving 2” at each end for the bed hardware. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the slats. The slats will be spaced approximately 2-1/2” apart. Attach to the supports using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue! The slats may have to be removed at some point to take the bed apart!

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Baltic Dining Chair! Let's do it, let's dive right into this one! I promise chairs are easier than they seem! Once you get past the angles of the back legs, you are in the safety zone and this baby will come together in a snap! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x6 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x3 at 4’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x6 at 34” – Back Legs
  • 2 – 2x3 at 17-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 15” – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x3 at 15-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 5 – 1x4 at 18” – Slats
  • 3 – 1x2 at 18” – Slats
  • 4 – 1x2 (ripped to 1” wide) at 18” – Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the back legs. Start by drawing the back leg on one of the 2x6 pieces and cut out using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Trace the leg on the other 2x6 piece and cut out. Clamp the pieces together and thoroughly sand so they are even.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the front legs as well as the front and back stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Attach to the front and back legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the front stretcher will be flush with the front face of the legs. The back face of the back stretcher will be flush with the inside face of the back legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the leg assemblies as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the slats. The back edge of one of the 1x4 slats will have ¾” x 1-1/2” notches cut in each corner to fit around the back legs. Attach to the chair fame as shown with ½” spacing between them using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Design Workshop Deep Drawer Component! These components are designed to work with steel shelving standards and brackets similar to these where screws can be inserted through the bottom of the bracket into the component.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Design Workshop Deep Drawer Component
Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • One half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • Screws to go through the bracket into the component – length will vary
  • One set of 16” drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 31” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 17-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 29-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 27” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 16” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 29-1/4” – Drawer Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 28-1/2” – Drawer Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges of the side pieces. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes in the sides and the back.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the drawer front. Cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. Cut the pieces for the sides, bottom, and back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. The box will be placed on the shelving brackets then secured with screws through the bracket into the box.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Parsons Media Large Console! This piece is fabulous, and will be a relatively easy build for those of you ready to try your hand at a media console without taking on some of the tricky aspects that can mean! Xx...Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 - sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Door pulls
  • Magnetic catches for the doors
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 12” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 17” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 2x2 at 57” – Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 57” – Shelf
  • 2 – 1x3 at 15-1/2” – Inner Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 at 57” – Inner Frame
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 19-1/4” x 60” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 19-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 58-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 18-1/2” – Divider
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 29-15/16” – Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and side frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the shelf. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.   Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the lower stretchers.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the inner frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces, as well as one long edge of each piece to attach the bottom. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the frame to the inside of the side frames and stretchers using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the inner frame will be flush with the bottom of the stretchers and side frames. (It will be 1” higher than the stretchers and side frames)

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the bottom and secure to the inner frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the bottom. The back edge of the bottom will be flush with the back of the base frame.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes as shown. Note that the divider is not centered in the cabinet, though it can be centered if desired. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides, back, and divider into the bottom.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the doors. Attach the hinges to the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the magnetic catches according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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