Jul
09
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table. This beauty can be adapted to suit your needs, with modifications to make this build that much more unique. This table is suitable for indoor or outdoor use depending on what you choose to construct it out of and how you finish it (hence the mods). Yahoo!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 Sheet 3/4" Plywood
  • 2x4 at 8'
Materials
Cut List

** Your selection of lumber can be chosen to reflect your particular use. For outdoor use, choose something that will wear well such as redwood or cedar if possible (or finish with a good sealant) and if you plan to finish the table top with concrete, you can choose a relatively inexpensive plywood that isn't pretty but will get the job done. 

2 - 48" Round Circles from 3/4" Plywood

4 - 2x4 at 26 1/2" - Legs

1 - 2x4 at 32 1/2" - Frame

2 - 2x4 at 14 1/2" - Frame

1 - 2x4 at 43 1/2" - Base

2 - 2x4 at 20" - Base

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

To enlarge the images in this plan, simply click on the image for each step. 

Step 1

Begin by cutting all of your boards to length and drilling your pocket holes if you choose to use a Kreg Jig for construction. Set your jig for 1 1/2" material and place pocket holes in an unconspicuous location. For the Base pieces these are best at the inside edge of the shorter pieces and facing downward so they aren't seen. You will not need pocket holes on the legs but you will need them on the Frame pieces in a similar manner as with the Base pieces only you will also need them on the outside edges of the shorter pieces and the outside edges of the long piece. You will probably want to place these facing up so that they are hidden once you attach your table top. 

To cut your 48" rounds you can begin by cutting your sheet of plywood in half so that you have 2 pieces that are 48" x 48". Then place a nail in the center (find this by drawing a line from corner to corner on the diagonal) and tie a string around it. Then tie a pencil to the other end so that it is just as long as the distance between your nail and the edge of your plywood (on a flat edge not a corner). Holding your pencil upright, pull your string taught and then draw a circle by simply running it around the outside edge in a circular motion, all the way around. Cut 2 of these out using a jig saw or band saw. 

Once you have cut and drilled your pieces, you will lay them out and fasten as you see below in the diagram. You will use glue and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to connect all of your pieces or you can use your countersink bit and 2 1/2" wood screws to fasten the legs to the Frame pieces.  I wouldn't recommend using this method for attaching the shorter Frame pieces to the longer Frame piece if you can help it since you will have to come up and in at an angle and it's difficult to get your screw sunken deeply enough this way. 

We are working from the top down in constructing the base frame of the table so you will flip your base frame over before attaching the table top to it. 

Constructing the Frame and Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Step 2

Begin this step by attaching the Base Pieces to each other using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue. Just like in the previous step you will want your pocket holes to be inconspicuous so you will have them facing up if your table looks like mine below. Your pocket holes will be place on the inside of the shorter Base pieces to attach them to the longer Base piece. Then you will place this X shape onto your base frame as shown in the previous step. There will be a 4" overhang of the Base pieces to the legs. 

You will then switch to your countersink bit and predrill down through the Base pieces and into the legs. Then fasten in place using glue and your 2 1/2" wood screws. 

Attaching the Base for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Step 3

Once your glue has finished setting up and all of your base frame is assembled, you will focus on securing your 2 table top rounds together using glue and 1 1/4" wood screws in a few select spots. Be sure to countersink for a more finished appearance and just in case you accidentally place a screw where your top meets your base frame. 

Then place your base frame onto your 2 table top rounds and attach using your countersink bit to predrill and your 2 1/2" wood screws. Attach through the Frame pieces in several places all along the length of the frame pieces. Don't make swiss cheese here, but make sure you have your base frame attached to your table top well enough that it doesn't come off when you attempt to flip this upright. 

The top should overhang the base frame by 6 1/4" on all sides. 

Fastening the Table Top in Place for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Step 4

Flip your table upright and either apply edge banding to the table top rounds, fill the edges of your top with wood filler and sand smooth prior to finishing and sealing, or cover the table top with a thin layer of concrete. The idea here would be to simply give it a concrete finish (thin layer) rather than creating an actual concrete table top, which would be extremely heavy and not desirable for this piece. Follow the instructions from the manufacterer of your products for proper directions on the application. 

Optional Concrete Finish for Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build an Indoor Outdoor Slab Round Dining Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jun
23
2014
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Upcycled Treasure's West Elm Inspired Truss Dining Table

When I saw this beauty, built by Upcycled Treasures, it knocked my socks off! That finish, those lines.. it's just a stunner! They actually made some mods to this DIY dining table that I kind of like. In fact it makes me look at the original inspiration piece in a bit of a different light, which is of course what our plan is modeled to look like. I'm starting to think that sometimes big retail could take a note from our builders here at TDC and learn a few things... what do you think? She has a full blog post about her process and the modification they made so you will want to read all about it. But for now, take in the beauty and enjoy this eye candy! Xx... Rayan

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Boards and Lumber from The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Upcycled Treasure's West Elm Inspired Truss Dining Table
Completed Build Before Finish for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Upcycled Treasure's West Elm Inspired Truss Dining Table
Gorgeous Build with Finish for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Upcycled Treasure's West Elm Inspired Truss Dining Table
Mar
10
2014
Project Details

This console table doubles as a bookshelf and storage unit. Build two units and wrap a corner of your sofa, or build several and line the whole back side of that baby! I am currently using two expedit shelving units on the backside of my floating sofa, so for those of you who don't have a wall to place your sofa along, this is a fabulous solution.  With a modern shape and a low profile, it serves double duty by giving you a storage solution and providing you with a bit of a room divider at the same time. Xx... Rayan 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • ½ sht. ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List

All pieces are cut from ¾” plywood and the grain should run parallel to the longest side except as noted–

  • 3 – 10” x 38” - Shelves
  • 1 – 6-1/2” x 9-1/4” – Upper Divider
  • 1 – 9-1/4” x 12-1/4” – Lower Divider * Grain will run parallel with 9-1/4” side
  • 1 – 6-1/2” x 29-3/4” – Upper Back
  • 1 – 12-1/4” x 29-3/4” – Lower Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut all pieces as indicated. It would be a good idea to sand each piece after cutting and drilling the pocket holes because sanding after assembly may be difficult! Also, if you choose to use edge banding on the plywood edges, this would be a good time to apply that to all edges that will be exposed. If you prefer to leave them exposed, sand really well. Using the Kreg jig set for ¾” material and the Lower Divider, drill pocket holes along the 9-1/4” edges. Attach with 1-1/4” screws to one of the Shelves (this will be the lower shelf), 8-1/4” in from the edge. Make sure the front of the divider is even with the front of the lower shelf. This will allow for attaching the back.

Step 2

Drill pocket holes in the Lower Back piece on each of the 29-3/4” edges. Attach to the lower shelf and to the divider with the pocket holes facing out. See drawing.

Step 3

Lay the middle shelf on this assembly and attach with 1-1/4” screws through the pocket holes on the back and divider pieces.

Step 4

Drill pocket holes in the 9-1/4” edges of the Upper Divider and attach the divider 8-1/4” in from the edge of the middle shelf. Make sure the upper divider is placed opposite of the lower divider. See drawings

Step 5

Drill pocket holes in the Upper Back along the 29-3/4” edges. Fasten to upper divider and middle shelf with 1-1/4” screws.

Step 6

Lay the last 10” x 38” piece on top of the assembly and attach with 1-1/4” screws through the remaining pocket holes in the upper back. Finish as desired.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of The Design Confidential. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.  // Post contains affiliate links

Nov
20
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Emmerson Full Sized Bed. We have so many amazing pieces in the Emmerson Collection so far and several more to come! For each of the pieces in this collection, you can stain them in a striped pattern to mimic slats or you can substitute for actual slats of different boards with different amounts of weathering and stain colors.

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

 

  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber

 

  • Two sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 4x4 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 15 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • One set of Bed Rail Brackets
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

 

  • 2 – 4x4 at 44” – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 36” x 50” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 1x4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 50” – Headboard/Footboard Top
  • 2 – 4x4 at 15-1/2” – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 50” – Footboard Panel
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 76” – Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 72” – Slat Supports
  • 15 – 1x3 at 55-1/2” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

Apply optional edge banding to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the panel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

 

Cut the pieces for the footboard legs and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the panel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 

Cut the pieces for the sides and the slat support. Attach the slat supports to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws leaving 2” at each end for the bed hardware. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the pieces for the slats. The slats will be spaced approximately 2-1/2” apart. Attach to the supports using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue! The slats may have to be removed at some point to take the bed apart!

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Nov
18
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Coffee Table. We have several pieces in the Copenhagen Collection so far, and this is a fabulous addition to the group! The frame can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal for ease of building and is right on trend with that mixed media look that is so popular right now! Not to mention these mixed look pieces blend well into many different styles so mix it up and add something special to your living or family room this year! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’         
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the top
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 16-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 52” – Stretchers
  • 4 – 2x2 at 27” – Stretchers
  • 6 – 1x2 at 28-1/2” – Top Supports & Top Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 55” – Top Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 28-1/2” x 53-1/2” – Top Panel
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the longer stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top supports. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the top panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.

Cut the pieces for the top trim and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Insert the top panel – the outside face will be flush with the outside face of the frame – then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the top so that the trim overhangs the top supports, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
30
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Media Stand. The frame can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal and give this piece a fabulous industrial feel. Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • Scrap of 1x2 measuring approximately 16”
  • 6 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 3 sets of 18” drawer slides
  • 3 cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 12” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 71” – Stretchers
  • 4 – 2x2 at 9” – Frame Supports
  • 8 – 2x2 at 17” – Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 74” – Bottom & Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 20” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-7/8” x 72-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-7/8” x 19-1/4” – Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 72-1/2” – Shelf
  • 2 – 1x2 at 7-7/8” – Top Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Small Drawer Bottom
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Small & Large Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 22” – Small Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 21-1/2” – Large Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 23” – Large Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-5/8” x 22-3/4” – Small Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-5/8” x 23-3/4” – Large Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs, the longer stretchers, and the supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces as well as each end of the support pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the piece for the bottom then secure to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the lower edges only. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position in the cabinet as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the lower edges only. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Add a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the back to further secure the dividers. 

Step 6

Cut the piece for the shelf. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the back. Use 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the shelf, as well as through the shelf into the dividers.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Cut the pieces for the top supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawers. The center drawer is narrower than the drawers on either side. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions then make any necessary adjustments. 

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the fronts in the openings. Mark the position for the cabinet pulls and drill the holes. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles. 

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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