Browse all Modern Style Free Woodworking Plans

Jun
20
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Project Details

We are slowly (very slowly) making our way through the outdoor pieces with cushions to accomodate less expensive cushion options, and today's plan is our next victim! We covered the matching Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Chair with Modifications for Cushions from Target and now we do exactly the same for the sofa! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 6 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 27 1/4"  – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 33 3/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 36 3/4” – Top
  • 1 – 2x4 at 73” – Top
  • 2 – 2x4 at 66” – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 66” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 9” – Center Leg
  • 9 – 1x4 at 24” – Seat Slats
  • 8 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Side Slats
  • 9 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 33 3/4” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top. Cut 45 deg. angles in each end of the long piece as well as one end of the short pieces (there will be a left and right). Drill pocket holes in the mitered ends and assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Place on the side assemblies and attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the top of the legs into the top piece.

Sofa Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be a 2x4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side stretcher piece to allow for the seat slats. Attach the leg piece at the center using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach all pieces at the spacing indicated (with the front piece flush with the front of the side frame) to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Seat Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center of the support with 1-1/4” brad nails.

Sofa Seat Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Side Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Sofa Back Slat for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Sofa Back Slat for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Outdoor Reef Sofa with Modifications for Cushions from Target
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jun
13
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Project Details

While we are hard at work reenginering most of our outdoor seating and lounge plans to work with less expensive cushions, I thought I would bring you a gorgeous modern buffet build! This large piece would be fabulous in an entryway or whever you need extra strorage including it's potential use in a bedroom and as a place to set your tv! A buffet is ust so versitile really, don't you think? 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 9 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 56-1/2” – Base Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 13” – Base Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 58-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 31-3/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 31-3/4” x 57” – Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 57” – Lower Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x2 at 24” – Lower Dividers
  • 6 – 2x2 at 15-3/4” – Shelf Supports & Drawer Slide Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 57” – Shelf
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6-1/4” – Upper Dividers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 58-1/2” – Upper Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 58-1/2” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 17” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 36 – 1x3 at 19-1/4” – Drawer Front Slats & Door Slats
  • 6 – 1x3 at 23-3/4” – Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Base Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position on the base so that 1” overlaps the sides and back (1/4” will overlap the front edge). Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Buffet Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each of the shorter edges. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Buffet Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Buffet Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 5

Cut the piece for the lower stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the lower dividers and shelf supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the dividers. Attach to the bottom and lower stretcher as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the shelf supports as shown. Secure the outer supports to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the outer face of the sides into the support. Secure the inner supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the dividers and back into the ends of the supports.

DIY Buffet Lower Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
DIY Buffet Lower Divider Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 6

Cut the piece for the shelf. Position as shown, then secure to the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Buffet Shelf for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the upper dividers and supports. Drill pocket holes in one end only of the dividers and secure to the lower stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the drawer slide supports as shown. Secure the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the dividers and back into the ends of the supports.

Upper Divider Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 8

Cut the piece for the upper stretcher. Secure to the cabinet sides and upper dividers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the front by ½”. Secure to the sides, back, and upper stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Install the drawer, then make any necessary adjustments.

Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer front slats. Install the front slats on the outer drawers first. The outside edge of the pieces will be flush with the outer face of the sides and there will be a 1/8” gap between the upper slat and the upper stretcher. Position the slats as indicated then secure to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the slats into the drawer boxes. There will be a 3/8” gap between the outer drawer front slats and the center drawer front slats with a 1/8” gap between the upper slat and the upper stretcher. Position the slats as indicated then secure to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the slats into the drawer boxes.

Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the doors. Position the slats as indicated in the drawing. Secure the vertical pieces using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Install the European hinges according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Install the outer doors first, with the outside edges flush with the outside face of the sides. The bottom edge of the doors will be flush with the bottom. Make any necessary adjustments.

Install the center door with a 3/8” gap between the outer doors and the center door using the regular cabinet hinges mounted to the face of the divider. Make any necessary adjustments.

Door for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Doors for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jun
06
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Project Details

I actually wanted to add a 'woot woot' to the title, but I figured I would restrain myself and show a bit of composure here, you know... like a lady and all. Right. So we are beginning to roll out our mods to some of the popular pieces that many of you have requested we adjust. These mods will accomodate some much less expensive, standard sized and much more readily available cushion options.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Tools
Lumber
  • 4 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 27 1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 33 3/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 36 3/4” – Top
  • 1 – 2x4 at 29” – Top
  • 2 – 2x4 at 22” – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 22” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Seat Support
  • 3 – 1x4 at 24” – Seat Slats
  • 8 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 33 3/4” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Chair Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top. Cut 45 deg. angles in each end of the long piece as well as one end of the short pieces (there will be a left and right). Drill pocket holes in the mitered ends and assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Place on the side assemblies and attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the top of the legs into the top piece.

Chair Seat Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be a 2x4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side stretcher piece to allow for the seat slats. Attach all pieces at the spacing indicated (with the front piece flush with the front of the side frame) to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Chair Seat Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center of the support with 1-1/4” brad nails.

Chair Seat Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Chair Side Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Chair Back Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Chair Back and Pocket Hole Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Outdoor Reef Club Chair
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jun
02
2014
Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Parquetry Dresser Herringbone Chest

Building with Rayan's plan was so simple.

Since buying 1/4" Walnut or Teak were out of my budget, I got creative and used Ikea Decking Tiles to create the Herringbone drawer fronts.  I made modifications to make the dresser taller and longer.  The paint and wood combination was inspired by Rayan's Sketch Up drawing. You can visit my blog for a very thorough tutorial on how I built this dresser. http://www.thepursuitofhandyness.com/diy-herringbone-chest-reveal/

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

$150 if you use the cheaper Euro Slides.

Length of Time 

2 days to build but a week to finish. 

Modifications 

I modified my dresser/chest to 40"w x 34"h x 18"d.  This required modifications of every board.  I also built my drawer boxes of 1/2" plywood and secured with pocket holes in the front so that they will be hidden by the drawer fronts. 

Lumber Used 

Birch Hardwood Plywood

Solid Acacia

Pine 1x3 

Finishing Technique 

Paint and Polyurethane on the carcass and Tung oil on the drawer fronts.

Parquetry Herringbone Chest without drawer fronts.
Parquetry Herringbone Chest Front
Parquetry Herringbone Chest angle
May
30
2014
Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Project Details

I promised you all a whole new set of outdoor furniture plans, and by golly that is precisely what you are going to get! Yahoo! We started this off with the gorgeous Free DIY Outdoor Furniture Plans for Building a Crosby Indoor Outdoor Coffee Table and today we continue with plans for building the end table!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Tools
Lumber

3 - 1x4 at 8'

2 - 2x2 at 8'

Materials
Cut List

6 - 1x4 at 21 3/4" Top

2 - 1x4 at 20 1/4" Frame

2 - 1x4 at 11 1/2" Supports

4 - 2x2 at 20 11/16" Legs

2 - 2x2 at 11 3/4" Stretchers

2 - 2x2 at 17" Trusses 

1 - 2x2 at 17 1/4" Center Rail

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build out your frame. Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1-1/4” Pocket Hole Screws and Wood glue to secure the pieces together. Use your Clamps to hold the boards together while you secure them and consider letting your glue setup for a bit before you fasten with your screws. 

Frame for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 2

Cut and Fasten your Legs. Your legs will be mitered at 8.2 Degrees Off Center, which is an 81.8 Degree Angle if you Center Mark on your Miter Saw reads as 90 rather than 0. Your cuts will be parallel at both ends. To secure your legs in place, use your countersink bit and 1 1/2" wood screws and glue. 

Legs for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 3

Attach your Stretchers. These are just a straight cut and will be fastened in place 3" up from ground level. You can fasten these in place using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue. You will want to align the front edges of your stretchers with the front edges of your legs, which will cause a bit of overhang on the backside, but will look better. 

**Note: If you cut your Center Rail for the next step in advance you may want to attach it to the stretchers and then attach the stretchers to the legs, just to be sure you don't end up with a piece that is either too long or too short and have to recut or refasten something.

Stretchers for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 4

Cut and Attach your Center Rail. Since the previous step leaves a bit of wiggle room, you may want to measure this just before you are ready to attach it and after you have secured your stretchers so you know precisely how long this piece should be. Once you have this piece cut and ready to secure, use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to secure from underneath. 

Center Rails for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 5

Cut and Fasten your Trusses in Place. Cut these at a 20 Degree Angle. Secure in place using your countersink drill bit and 1 1/2" wood screws and glue from underneath up through the center rail and from above and down through the frame. Since these will sit astride the frame pieces at the top, secure at a slight angle so you don't accidentially come out the side of your truss. 

Trusses for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 6

Fasten your Frame to your Top Boards. Your Top Boards should be spaced 1/4" apart and the frame should sit 6" in on either side and 1" back on the front and back. Secure in place from underneath using your 1 1/4" Brad Nails and Glue. You can also use screws if you prefer or if you will need to remove the top in the future for any reason. 

Table Top for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

May
16
2014
Project Details

How would you all like to venture into a whole new set of DIY Outdoor Furniture plans and a new collection? Well as luck would have it, that is precisely what we shall be doing! Yahoo!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber

5 - 1x4 at 8'

2 - 2x2 at 8'

Materials
Cut List

7 - 1x4 at 49" Top

3 - 1x4 at 23 1/2" Frame

2 - 1x4 at 13 1/4" Supports

4 - 2x2 at 17 9/16" Legs

2 - 2x2 at 15" Stretchers

2 - 2x2 at 16 15/16" Trusses 

1 - 2x2 at 40 3/4" Center Rail

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build out your frame. Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1-1/4” Pocket Hole Screws and Wood glue to secure the pieces together. Use your Clamps to hold the boards together while you secure them and consider letting your glue setup for a bit before you fasten with your screws. 

Step 2

Cut and Fasten your Legs. Your legs will be mitered at 20 Degrees Off Center, which is a 70 Degree Angle if you Center Mark on your Miter Saw reads as 90 rather than 0. Your cuts will be parallel at both ends. To secure your legs in place, use your countersink bit and 1 1/2" wood screws and glue. 

Step 3

Attach your Stretchers. These are just a straight cut and will be fastened in place 3" up from ground level. You can fasten these in place using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue. You will want to align the front edges of your stretchers with the front edges of your legs, which will cause a bit of overhang on the backside, but will look better. 

**Note: If you cut your Center Rail for the next step in advance you may want to attach it to the stretchers and then attach the stretchers to the legs, just to be sure you don't end up with a piece that is either too long or too short and have to recut or refasten something.

Step 4

Cut and Attach your Center Rail. Since the previous step leaves a bit of wiggle room, you may want to measure this just before you are ready to attach it and after you have secured your stretchers so you know precisely how long this piece should be. Once you have this piece cut and ready to secure, use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to secure from underneath. 

Step 5

Cut and Fasten your Trusses in Place. Cut these at a 45 Degree Angle. Secure in place using your countersink drill bit and 1 1/2" wood screws and glue from underneath up through the center rail and from above and down through the frame. 

Step 6

Fasten your Frame to your Top Boards. Your Top Boards should be spaced 1/4" apart and the frame should sit 6" in on either side and 1" back on the front and back. Secure in place from underneath using your 1 1/4" Brad Nails and Glue. You can also use screws if you prefer or if you will need to remove the top in the future for any reason. 

Attaching the Top for the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor Coffee Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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