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Dec
04
2015

Junior Loft Bed with a Slide! 

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 
Length of Time 
Modifications 
Lumber Used 
Finishing Technique 
Additional Project Details 
Note
Nov
13
2015
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Twin House Bed with Platform + Chimney
Project Details

At long last, we have the plans for another version of the twin sized house bed playhouse! You all loved the original twin sized version so much that I am rolling out the other requested sizes and each will have a slightly different variation in style, from the last. Hopefully this will let you choose your own adventure with this project, depending on your needs and how it will function.

Plans for the Toddler House Bed

With all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. Don't forget... for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$150
Dimensions
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Twin House Bed with Platform + Chimney
Tools
Lumber
  • 7 - 1x4 at 10' - can sub for 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood
  • 2 - 2x4 at 10' or 3 - 2x4 at 8'
  • 6 - 2x3 at 10' or 8 - 2x3 at 8'
  • 1 - 2x2 at 6'
Materials
Cut List
  • 20 - 1x4's at 39" - Slats (Can sub for 3/4" plywood at 39" x 72")
  • 2 - 2x4's at 75" - Lower Side Rails
  • 2 - 2x4's at 39" - Head and Foot Rails
  • 3 - 2x3's at 72" - Center and Side Boards
  • 4 - 2x3's at 36" - Posts
  • 2 - 2x3's at 29 3/4" - Roof
  • 2 - 2x3's at 31 1/4" - Roof
  • 2 - 2x3's at 68" - Upper Side Rails
  • 1 - 2x3 at 5 1/2" - Chimney
  • 1 - 2x3 at 8 1/2" - Chimney
  • 1 - 2x3 at 4 1/2" - Chimney
  • 1 - 2x2 at 68" - Pitch Rail
  •  
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut all 6 boards to size and then bevel the 4 posts at a 45° angle, on one end, making sure to keep the length of your original cut. You will be making 2 units here and you can drill your pocket holes in the bottom rails as shown, and set your Pocket Hole Jig for 1 1/2" material. Attach your posts to your Rails using glue and 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws. Your posts will sit with the longer edge on what will be the inside and the same side as your pocket holes.

** When you bevel, you are simply cutting your board at an angle with your board laying flat and your miter saw tilting 45° rather than being turned at a 45° angle as it would be when you miter.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Twin House Bed with Platform + Chimney
Step 2

Create your inner frame by cutting your boards to length and attaching them to your Head and Foot Rails. If you prefer for your slats to sit flush with the rails, secure the Center and Side Boards 3/4" down from the top edge of the Head and Foot Rails and 1/4" up from the bottom edge. Secure the Center and Side Boards in place using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" material and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue. Attach the center board first for ease of securing with pocket hole screws and you can place the pocket holes on the outsides of the Side Boards since they won't be seen.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Twin House Bed with Platform + Chimney
Step 3

Now you will attach the 3 units you have built by securing the Side Boards to the Bottom Rails with 2" wood screws and glue. Use your countersink drill bit to pre-drill for screws that will sit flush with your boards. Since you will secure the Side Boards directly to the Bottom Rails, you can simply glue the Head and Foot Rails to the Side Boards if you wish, but there is no need to worry about securing these with screws or pocket holes.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Twin House Bed with Platform + Chimney
Step 4

Fasten your slats in place using 1 1/2" brad nails or finish nails. If you don't have a nail gun at your disposal, you can opt to use 1 1/2" screws, just be sure to countersink them using your countersink drill bit to pre-drill and then fasten your screws with a phillips head drill bit. The slats should fit perfectly with no spaces between them, but it would be wise to dry fit just to be sure!

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Twin House Bed with Platform + Chimney
Step 5

Now for the fun part! This looks so much more complicated than it actually is - promise! Cut your boards to length and note that you will be creating 2 units for the pitch of your roof and that the 2 boards that form one unit are not the same length. One side is going to be 1 1/2" longer than the other. Once you have them cut to length, bevel one end of each board at 45°. Be sure to keep the length as directed when you do this. Once you have beveled the end of each board, you will create your pitch by securing the straight cut end of one long and one short piece together. Please be sure to set the short piece to the inside edge of the longer piece as you see in the diagram.

Once you have your 2 roof units created, you can secure them to your posts using glue and 2" wood screws, downward from the top edge of your bevel down into your posts. Be sure to countersink and pre-drill so your screws are flush.

**Note that these pieces will sit flat for beveling as well as when you secure them to create your pitch. The face of your roof boards should match that of your posts and both will have the face side of your board (the 2 1/2" side) run the length of the bed (the longer sides) rather than the width (the shorter head and foot). This means that when you look at your bed from the side, your boards will appear slightly bigger than they do when you look at your bed from the head or foot, but all should match.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Twin House Bed with Platform + Chimney
Step 6

Secure the rails in place using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue. Cut your rails to length, noting that the top rail that runs the between the 2 roof units is a 2x2 while the Upper Side Rails are 2x3's. The 2x3's will sit with the face of your boards (the 2 1/2" side) facing outward. Place pocket holes for 1 1/2" material on either end of one face of the 2x3's and secure to the Posts and Roof Units from the inside of your bed. Note that the top edge of your Rails will actually sit flush with the top edge of your roof board bevel. Place your pocket holes for 1 1/2" material on either end of your 2x2 Pitch Rail and secure this sitting flush to the very top of the pitch of your Roof. Place your pocket holes on the underside of your Pitch Rail so they aren't visible.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Twin House Bed with Platform + Chimney
Step 7

This last step is optional, but pretty adorable. To create a chimney, you will simply cut all 3 pieces to length, and then bevel the legs at 45°. Secure all 3 pieces together using 2" wood screws and glue and be sure your beveled edges face the same direction and note that this chimney unit will also sit with the face of your board (the 2 1/2" side) sitting the same way your posts and your roof sit (along the sides) with the sides of your board (the 1 1/2" side) facing the front and back.

You Can Build This! The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Twin House Bed with Platform + Chimney
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Kiddos 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Nov
06
2015
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a 90 Inch Big Sur Table
Project Details

By special reader request... the 90 inch table! Of course if the 65 Inch is more your speed - plans for that are here.

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. Don't forget... for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$100-$150
Tools
Lumber
  • 3 - 2x12 at 8'
  • 5 - 1x3 at 8'
  • 2 - 6x6 at 6'
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - 6x6 at 30" (Legs)
  • 2 - 1x3 at 23 3/4" (Side Aprons)
  • 6 - 1x3 at 30 1/4" (Table Supports)
  • 2 - 1x3 at 79 1/2" (Front/Back Aprons)
  • 3 - 2x12 at 90 " (Table Tops)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Attach the Side Aprons to the Legs. These will be fastened 1 1/2" from the top of the leg and will sit back 1" from the outside edge of your legs. Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" material and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws with glue.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a 90 Inch Big Sur Table
Step 2

Build the Frame // set your Kreg Jig for 3/4" material and create your pocket holes. Use 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws and Wood Glue to fasten together.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a 90 Inch Big Sur Table
Step 3

Attach the Frame to the Legs // Use 3" Screws and Wood Glue. Frame will sit 1 1/2" from the top edge of the legs and will be centered front to back with a setback of 1" from front edge of legs as well as on the backside.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a 90 Inch Big Sur Table
Step 4

Cut 3 boards to length for the top of your table. Remove a 3 1/2" square from 2 of the corners for 2 of your boards. Use a jig saw, circular saw or router for this. Then attach your table top boards to the frame and aprons using 2" finish nails and glue.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a 90 Inch Big Sur Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Nov
04
2015
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // RH Inspired Printmakers Desk by Zack

I work for an excellent employer that allowed me to build my own desk instead of ordering a pre-fab one from one of the big box retailers. I'm really proud of what I was able to put together as this was my first real foray into furniture-building. There were a couple issues with the assembly order that I found while building from the plan on TDC, but thankfully I was looking far enough ahead to anticipate them and adjust the plans. I finished the desk about 6 weeks ago, but I'll work hard to remember what I encountered. 

For the desk, I got 3/4" maple 7-ply plywood and true cabinetmaker's maple 1x2"s (more on this later). To save on costs, I bought cheaper plywood (13-ply chinese birch) from the same place for the interior pieces (mostly the drawer boxes). I used optimalon's cut optimizer (http://www.optimalon.com/index.htm) to make sure I used wood efficiently. Since I wasn't using traditional dimensional lumber, I bought 200 BF of 1x2" and trimmed it all down to the actual dimensions (3/4"x11 1/12'), then glued the 1x2's together after they have been trimmed on the table saw to get the number of 2x2's I needed.

To save weight and materials, I nixed the full plywood divider, and replaced it with a full frame of 1x2 around the underside of the top assembly. That way, it was easier to install drawer slides later, as well as make adjustments to other portions.

I also put a back on the desk since it wasn't going up against a wall. If you're going to do that, you need to purchase a 3rd sheet of plywood as there won't be enough material with just the two in the list.

This was also my first project with the Kreg Jig, and I loved working with it! I have definitely learned that I need to be more consistent about clamping with screwing together pieces, there are a number of pieces on the desk that don't sit as flush as I would like because I screwed them together without any clamping. Learn from my mistakes!

Speaking of mistakes, you'll notice the top has a sort of cross pattern with 1x2 and plywood panels. That was done because I made a bad cut on the piece meant for the top of the desk. It was a 1/2" too narrow at one end, so I put the 1x2's in as a frame and filled it in with pieces I measured twice and cut once! I wish I had done it right from the beginning, but the end result looks on purpose and I'm happy with it!

I don't know what else to write about the project, but I'd love to answer any questions you may have about the build and the plans from my experience with them!

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // RH Inspired Printmakers Desk by Zack
Estimated Cost 

I spent about $500 on wood, screws, and the Kreg Jig for this project. The 7-ply exterior pieces of plywood were most expensive at $77 each, but they were worth it for the quality. Very good to work with. I bought the wood at Nashville Plywood, in case you're in the area. They were great to work with, even for a rookie like me.

Length of Time 

I worked on this project for about 30 hours total. It would have been shorter if I had a garage, but I had to move stuff (tools and materials) in and out of the house each time I wanted to work on it, so that exacerbated the time and space significantly to build.

Modifications 

I'd avoid the full middle panel and frame it instead with 1x2's. That way, no edge finishing to do on plywood, and it saves a ton of weight without sacrificing any strength or functionality. It also allows to you drill holes in the top to run cable and such without having to remove the drawers. Makes for a cleaner desktop without wires.

I also just screwed the drawer fronts in the normal way, I didn't assemble them per instructions. Fewer screws and less time.

I secured all of the side and back panels by drilling with the Kreg jig instead of doing brad nails or anything like that.

Lumber Used 

I had 200 feet of maple 1x2 that I glued together to make my 2x2's as well as using for the 1x2's./p>

2 4x8 sheets of plywood for top, back, sides, and drawer fronts

1 cheap 4x8 sheet of plywood for drawer boxes (could have probably used less, but have extra to play with now!)

1 sheet of 1/4" plywood for drawer bottoms, plus one extra small piece I had to go back and buy (no way to make the drawer bottoms with just one piece, measurements don't work out)

Finishing Technique 

Brushed on Minwax Early American stain. Will put poly on later, I'm not so good with coasters and know it's only a matter of time!

Additional Project Details 

Read up on ways to make accurate repeat cuts. That's the one thing I had wished I had done, it would have saved many headaches in fitting everything up in the end. Still some things I need to fix in that regard, but having it together with flaws is way better than not having it together.

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // RH Inspired Printmakers Desk by Zack
Oct
31
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Canopy Bed
Project Details

A favorite for many of you, this plan is the Queen sized version of our King Canopy Bed! Yahoo.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Canopy Bed

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$175-$200
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Canopy Bed
Tools
Lumber
  •  8 - 4x4 at 8’ 
  • 14 – 2x8 at 8’
  • 7 – 2x4 at 8”
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 4x4 at 84” – Posts
  • 2 – 4x4 at 61” – Front and Back Frame
  • 2 – 4x4 at 92-1/4” – Frame Sides
  • 2 – 2x4 at 61” – Front and Back Top Rails
  • 2 – 2x4 at 92-1/4” – Top Rail Sides
  • 2 – 2x8 at 61” – Front and Back Platform
  • 2 – 2x8 at 92-1/4” – Platform Sides
  • 2 – 2x4 at 92-1/4” – Cleats
  • 1 – 2x4 at 92-1/4” – Center Support
  • 2 – 2x4 at 3-3/4” – Center Support Legs
  • 13 – 2x8 at 61” – Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Posts, Front and Back Frame, and Frame Sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Frame pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. At this point, the Bed is upside down so that it is easier to assemble. Make sure that the pocket holes will face the ceiling when the bed is turned right side up.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Canopy Bed
Step 2

Flip the piece over. Next, cut the pieces for the Front, Back and Side Top Rails. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Top Rail pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the floor when assembled. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Canopy Bed
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Front, Back, and Side Platform pieces. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Platform pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure the pocket holes face the inside of the Bed when assembled. In addition to the pocket screws, you can use 2” wood screws to attach the Top Rails to the Platform pieces.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Canopy Bed
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Cleats. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Cleats. Assemble to the Platform Sides as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. In addition to the pocket screws, you can use 2” wood screws to attach the Cleats to the Platform.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Canopy Bed
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Center Support and Center Support Legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top ends of the Center Support Legs and in each end of the Center Support. Attach the Center Support Legs to the Center Support with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Attach the Center Support to the Front and Back Platform pieces and assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Canopy Bed
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Slats. Attach the Slats to the Cleats and assemble as shown with glue and 2” wood screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Canopy Bed
Step 7
Step 8
Step 9
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Oct
21
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Project Details

I am so excited to share this simple multi function project plan with you guys! Part Side Table, part Magazine or anything you like storage and sheer gorgeous piece of furniture and easy to build plans! This Magazine Sling Side Table seems like it would blend seamlessly with any style of decor and is something even a non-sewing gal like myself could handle! Get your saw ready and make some sawdust fly on this beauty!

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$55-$75
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at – 2’x2’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 18-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 15-1/2” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 2x4 at 23-1/2” – Front and Back Aprons
  • 1 – 2x4 at 15-1/2” – Top Support
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 13-1/2”x15-1/2” – Table Top
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 2”x15-1/2” – Sling Supports
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Legs and Side Aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Side Aprons. Secure Side Aprons to the Legs as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Repeat this step twice, once for each side of the Table.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Front and Back Aprons. Drill pocket screws in each end of the Aprons. Attach the Aprons to the Legs as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of the Table as shown in the sketch.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 3

Cut the Top Support. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top Support. Attach the Top Support to the Front and Back Aprons as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the same direction as shown in the sketch.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 4

Cut the piece for the Table Top. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill holes on the underside of the Table Top on all sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. The Table Top will sit 1/2” below the Aprons. Make sure that the pocket holes face the ground as shown in the sketch.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 5

Now it’s time to cut the Sling fabric! Cut your fabric as shown. Turn under long edges of the Sling 1/2”, iron, and then turn it under another 1/2” and iron again. Repeat this process with the short edges of the Sling.

To secure the edges of the fabric, you can use iron-on adhesive, fabric glue, or sew the edges.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Sling Supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Sling Supports. Don’t attach just yet!

Place one of the short ends of the Sling under the Sling Support. Attach the Sling Support with 2-1/2” pocket screws as shown to the Front and Back Aprons. The Sling end should extend 1/2” below the Sling Support. To further avoid the Sling from slipping out of the Sling Support when weighed down with magazines, screw the Sling Support to the adjacent Side Apron with 1-1/4” wood screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Step 7

Repeat the same process for the other Sling Support. Let the Sling hang down into the opening.

Now all you have to do is grab a seat and a magazine… and relax!

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Magazine Sling Side Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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