Modern

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Parsons Media Large Console! This piece is fabulous, and will be a relatively easy build for those of you ready to try your hand at a media console without taking on some of the tricky aspects that can mean! Xx...Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 - sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Door pulls
  • Magnetic catches for the doors
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 12” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 17” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 2x2 at 57” – Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 57” – Shelf
  • 2 – 1x3 at 15-1/2” – Inner Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 at 57” – Inner Frame
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 19-1/4” x 60” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 19-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 58-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 18-1/2” – Divider
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 29-15/16” – Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and side frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the shelf. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.   Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the lower stretchers.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the inner frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces, as well as one long edge of each piece to attach the bottom. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the frame to the inside of the side frames and stretchers using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the inner frame will be flush with the bottom of the stretchers and side frames. (It will be 1” higher than the stretchers and side frames)

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the bottom and secure to the inner frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the bottom. The back edge of the bottom will be flush with the back of the base frame.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes as shown. Note that the divider is not centered in the cabinet, though it can be centered if desired. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides, back, and divider into the bottom.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the doors. Attach the hinges to the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the magnetic catches according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Parsons Table! With a bit of filling and sanding, this beauty will look as though it's one solid piece and will exude all the trimmings of the classic design piece it's inspired by!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 4 – 3x3 posts at 3’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 3x3 posts at 29-1/4” - Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 31” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 55” – Long Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 34-1/2” – Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 36” x 60” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end of the aprons as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the aprons will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the long aprons and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the aprons will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the supports and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the long aprons as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, apply to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly. Secure to the table frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the aprons and supports.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Degraw Chair. We have a special treat today friends with plans for this beauty Cher-Ann built! That periwinkle color is pretty much to die for! If you are interested in a little tutorial on stenciling your builds, head on over to her and check it out! Xx...Rayan

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Degraw Chair
Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x6 at 40” – Back Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 15” – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 4 – 1x4 at 15” – Back Slats
  • 2 – 2x2 at 17-3/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17” – Side Stretchers
  • 4 – 1x2 cut with 45 deg miters at each end for seat supports – random length
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 20” - Seat
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the back legs. Cut the angles as shown using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Cut the pieces for the back slats and stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the pieces on the legs as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the slats will be flush with the front face of the legs. The stretcher will be positioned ¼” back from the outside edge of the legs.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron piece. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the frame pieces will be positioned ¼” back from the outside face of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. They can be any length with 45 degree miters at each end. Drill pocket holes in each mitered end (not shown in the drawing) and secure to the corners of the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches with a jigsaw and apply edge banding if being used. Secure to the chair frame using 1-1/4” screws through the underside of the supports into the bottom of the seat.

Step 5
Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Parsons Media Armoire! Yahoo the collection continues with another easy build with big style! Xx...Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Door pulls
  • Magnetic catches for doors
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x2 at 43” – Base
  • 2 – 1x2 at 15” – Base
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 46” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 44-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 44-1/2” x 44-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 44-1/2” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 46” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 22-15/16” x 46” – Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base and the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces of the base, as well one long edge of each base piece to tattach the base to the bottom. Assemble the base frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the base frame as shown to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in each shorter end then secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges and position as shown. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in the two shorter edges as well as one long edge. Position in the cabinet as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws through the sides and back into the bottom.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap between them. Attach the hinges to the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. The top edge of the doors will be flush with the top of the cabinet.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Parsons Media Tower! Not much needs to be said about the awesomeness of this collection and these pieces! Yahoo.. Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 5 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 - sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Door Pull
  • Magnetic catch for door
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 3-1/2” – Legs
  • 2– 2x2 at 17” – Base Frame
  • 2 – 2x2 at 19” – Base Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17” – Base Inner Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17-1/2” – Base Inner Frame
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 22” – Base Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 26-1/2” – Base Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 26-1/2” – Base Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Base Shelf
  • 4 – 2x2 at 37-1/2” – Top Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 19” – Top Frames
  • 2 – 2x2 at 22” – Top Frames
  • 6 – 2x2 at 14” – Top Stretchers
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 19” – Top Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22” x 28” – Door

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and base frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the inner frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces, as well as one long edge of each piece to attach the base bottom. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then insert the frame into the base frame as shown. Secure using countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the base bottom. Secure to the inner frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the bottom. The back of the bottom will be flush with the back of the base frame.

Cut the pieces for the base sides and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the base back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in the two shorter edges as well as one long edge. Position in the cabinet as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the base top and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the top frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as each end of the legs. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the frames to the base as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each piece. Attach to the top frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top of the shelves will be flush with the top of each stretcher and frame piece.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the door. Attach the hinges to the door, then install the door in the cabinet. Attach the magnetic catch according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Ava Desk! I pretty sure this gal looks good regardless of her use. Desk, end table, console... she's just gorgeous and what a simple build she is!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/2” screws
  • One 28” x 52” piece of Plexiglas
  • Clear rubber bumpers (to place the glass on the frame)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x2 at 20” – Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 42” – Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 39” – Stretcher
  • 4 – 1x3 at 37-5/8” – X
  • 4 – 1x3 at 17-7/8” – X
  • 4 – 1x3 at 18-1/8” - X
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Xs. Cut the angles as shown – they are NOT 45 deg angles! Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter pieces as shown. Assemble the Xs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws maintaining the dimensions as shown. Attach two X assemblies to each other (with the pocket holes facing in) using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the center of each X assembly using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the frame on the X assemblies with the pocket holes facing down and secure using glue and 1-1/2” countersunk screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Position the rubber bumpers on the frame and set the Plexiglass  on top.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Design Workshop Divided Box Component! These components are designed to work with steel shelving standards and brackets similar to these where screws can be inserted through the bottom of the bracket into the component.

I truly can't wait to see who builds this first and how they arrange their collection! 

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Design Workshop Divided Box Component
Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • One full sheet of ¾” plywood (mainly for the length)
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • Screws to go through the bracket into the component – length will vary
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 63” – Top & Bottom
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 17-1/4” – Sides

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom edges only of the divider pieces. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers.

 

Step 2
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Degraw Bench! I love the simplicity this piece has without lacking style! It would be a fabulous addition to homes with any number of styles!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 9 – 1x2 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x2 at 4 – 2x2 at 18” – Legs
  • 8 – 1x2 at 12” – Side Frames & Seat Frame
  • 4 – 1x2 at 56-1/2” – Upper Stretchers & Seat Frame
  • 3 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” – Seat Supports
  • 1 – 2x2 at 58” – Lower Stretcher
  • 16 – 1x2 at 17-3/4” – Seat Slats
  • 8 – 1x2 at 18” – Seat Slats (Center)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle as shown using a jigsaw, bandsaw, or tapering jig on the table saw. The angled side of the legs will face toward the longer sides.

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the pieces on the legs as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the frame pieces will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Position the pieces on the legs as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the frame pieces will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

Cut the piece for the lower stretcher. Secure to the lower side frame pieces using glue and countersunk 2” screws from the outside of the lower frame pieces.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat. Drill pocket holes as shown. Also, drill pocket holes along one edge of the outer slat pieces as noted to attach the longer trim pieces. (These pocket holes are not shown.)

Position the seat on the frame and secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the seat pieces into the stretchers and supports.

Step 3
Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jonathan Adler Inspired Sawhorse Dining Table! Those of you who follow along on the FB Fanpage already know that this week I have teemed up with HomeSav to bring you a Look Book filled with Jonathan Adler style! And what better way to celebrate that style than to bring you a fresh new set of plans for a table of his that is no longer available but still oh so glorious... Yahoo... Xx...Rayan!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” screws
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 8 – 1x2 at 30-5/16” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 12-7/8” – Leg Base
  • 2 – 1x2 at 26-1/2” – Leg Lower Stretcher
  • 6 – 1x3 at 26-1/2” – Leg Stretchers, Top Frame & Supports
  • 2 – 1x3 at 55-1/2” – Top Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 36” x 96” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sawhorse legs and base. Cut the angles at the measurements shown – note that the angles are not cut at 45 degrees! Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the sawhorse stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The lower stretcher will be centered on the sawhorse base with the pocket holes facing down.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the table top, top frame and supports. If using edge banding, it will be applied to the edges of the top before assembly. Drill pocket holes in one long edge of each piece (to attach to the top) as well as each end of two of the shorter pieces to make the frame. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the frame and supports  to the bottom of the table top at the dimensions shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Place the table top on the sawhorses with the upper stretchers fitting into the space between the frame and supports. Secure the sawhorses in place using 2” screws through the inside of the frame

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Ava Console Table. This simple build is just so stylish, yahoo! I can't wait to see who gives this collection a try first...

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/2” screws
  • One 18” x 45” piece of Plexiglas
  • Clear rubber bumpers (to place the glass on the frame)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x2 at 10-11/16” – Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 41” – Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 38” – Stretcher
  • 4 – 1x3 at 32-5/16” – X
  • 4 – 1x3 at 15-9/16” – X
  • 4 – 1x3 at 15-3/4” - X
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Xs. Cut the angles as shown – they are NOT 45 deg angles! Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter pieces as shown. Assemble the Xs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws maintaining the dimensions as shown. Attach two X assemblies to each other (with the pocket holes facing in) using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the center of each X assembly using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the frame on the X assemblies with the pocket holes facing down and secure using glue and 1-1/2” countersunk screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Position the rubber bumpers on the frame and set the Plexiglass  on top.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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