Modern

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

A fabulous reader request from our Community Pages and a fabulous piece in general. The Presley Media Console is sure to be a fabulous item to add to your home!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Router
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 5 – 2x2 at 8’
  • Half sheet of ¼” lauan, hardboard, or plywood
  • 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • Door slide hardware (Rockler part no. 38905)
  • 3 Recessed Drawer Pulls
  • Glass for doors
  • Rabbeting bit for router
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 35” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 17” – Side Panels
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 17” – Side Panels
  • 5 – 1x2 at 17” – Shelf & Bottom Supports
  • 2 – 1x2 at 61-1/2” – Shelf Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 64-1/2” – Lower Shelf
  • 4 – 2x2 at 61-1/2” – Top & Bottom Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 61-1/2” – Top & Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 61-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 17” – Dividers
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 20” – Shelves
  • 6 – 1x4 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • 6 – 1x4 at 19” – Drawer Boxes
  • 3 – ¼” lauan or hardboard at 16” x 19” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 19-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 19-3/4” – Drawer Front
  • 4 – 1x2 at 15-3/4” – Door Frames
  • 4 – 1x2 at 17-1/2” – Door Frames
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the bevel as indicated.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the 2x2 pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg Jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown in the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the top and bottom of the panels with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back of the plywood panels should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.

Attach the side assemblies to the legs as shown with glue and pocket hole screws. Use 2” pocket hole screws to attach the 2x2 frame pieces to the legs and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the plywood panels into the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the supports should be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” notches in each corner. Attach to the supports with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the shelf into the supports.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the console bottom frame and supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the supports.

Cut a 1/8” rabbet in the top of the front frame piece for the door slide hardware. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Cut the plywood piece for the console bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the 2x2 frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom supports to the assembly as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach to the legs as shown with 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the legs and console bottom with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back side should be flush with the inside face of the legs as shown.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the top frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end.

Cut a 1/8” rabbet in the bottom of the front frame piece for the door slide hardware. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Cut the plywood piece for the top. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the 2x2 frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach to the legs as shown with 2” pocket hole screws. Use 1-1/4” pocket hole screws to attach the back to the top frame.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Attach to the cabinet as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides and dividers into the shelves.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach to the drawer boxes with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The drawer boxes will be located ¾” back from the front edge of the dividers.

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Use a brad nailer to secure the fronts in place. Open the drawer and insert screws through the inside of the drawer box into the front. See manufacturer's instructions for recessed handle installation.

Step 9
Step 9
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the door frames. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Locate the pocket holes so the router bit will not hit the screws! Rout a 3/8” deep rabbet in the back of the frame for the glass. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 10
Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

A fabulous project from our request list and one that might very well serve a number of purposes, whether you build it for storage or display, this guy will do it all!

 

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – Sheets of ¾” plywood (If you aren't comfortable cutting plywood you can easily substitute for 1x12 boards and keep the height of each vertical piece as is)
  • 1 – 2x10 at 3’ (if you sub for 1x12 boards, this should be changed to a 2x12)
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 5 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 64” – Shelves
  • 14 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 14” – Dividers
  • 2 – 2x10 scraps at 14” long (ripped to 8-1/4” wide) - Legs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at one long edge on each board.

Cut the piece for the bottom shelf. Attach the legs to the shelf at the spacing indicated using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end to attach to the shelves. Attach the first four dividers at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the first shelf and attach to the dividers as indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the next three dividers and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the first divider at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the second shelf and attach as shown, using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the next four dividers and third shelf. Repeat the process as for the first shelf in Step 2.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the remaining three dividers and the top, and attach as in Step 3.

Step 5
Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

We continue with our newest bedroom collection, the Blake Collection.. yahoo. Fabulously stylish and a relatively easy build, this piece is sure to solve many of your work related storage dilemmas!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 6’
  • 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – half sheet of ¼” lauan, hardboard, or plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the exposed edges of the plywood, if desired
  • 4 set of 20” drawer slides
  • 6 – drawer handles or knobs
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 29” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x3 at 21” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 21” – side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 43” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 22-1/2” – Drawer Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 22-1/2” – Drawer Divider
  • 4 – 1x2 at 21” – Drawer Slide Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 24-3/4” x 47-1/2” – Top
  • 4 – 1x4 at 18-1/4” – Right Drawer Boxes
  • 2 – 1x4 at 23” – Left Drawer Box
  • 6 – 1x4 at 18-1/2” – Left & Right Drawer Boxes
  • 2 – 1x8 at 18-1/4” – Lower Right Drawer Box
  • 2 – 1x8 at 18-1/2” – Lower Right Drawer Box
  • 3 – ¼” lauan, hardboard, or plywood at 18-1/4” x 18-1/2” – Right Side Drawer Bottoms
  • 1 – ¼” lauan, hardboard, or plywood at 18-1/2” x 23” – Left Side Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 23-3/4” – Left Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 18-7/8” – Right Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-3/4” x 18-7/8” – Lower Right Drawer Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 44-1/2” – Hutch Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 9-1/4” – Hutch Dividers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 10” – Hutch Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/4” x 12” – Hutch Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/4” x 19” – Hutch Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 46” – Hutch Top
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 6-1/2” – Hutch Drawer Boxes
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 11-3/4” – Hutch Drawer Boxes
  • 2 – ¼” lauan, hardboard, or plywood at 6-1/2” x 11-3/4” – Hutch Drawer Bottoms
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 11-3/4” – Hutch Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Starting with the desk, cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the bevel in the bottom of the leg as shown.

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the side frame pieces should be flush with the outer face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the frames with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the panel should be flush with the outer face of the frame.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the drawer divider. Drill pocket holes as shown. Cut ¾” x ¾” notches in the bottom divider to allow for the legs. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Secure to the desk back and right side frame as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Attach to the side frames as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the desk with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top and into the side frames, back, and divider.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Note that the drawer on the left will be wider than the drawers on the right. Attach the draweer slide hardware according to the manufacturer's instructions. 

For the drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

For the hutch – cut the pieces for the back and the dividers. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the back as well as in one end of the shorter dividers. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the hutch shelves. Drill pocket holes in the sides as well as one long edge of each shelf. Attach to the back and dividers at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the hutch to the desk top with countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the hutch with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 9
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Step 10
Step 11

For the drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Land of Nod Inspired Blake Desk & Hutch
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

A fabulous piece for your teen, or anyone for that matter! Upholstery tutorial can be found here. 

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 4’
  • Half sheet of plywood

 

Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 19-1/2” – Upper Back Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 14” – Lower Back & Front Legs
  • 1 – 2x2 at 22” – Back Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 18” – Back Support
  • 2 – 1x4 at 22” – Front & Back Aprons
  • 2 – 1x4 at 23” – Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 23-3/4” – Seat Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 18” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 24-1/2” x 25” - Seat
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the back legs. In the upper back pieces, cut a 12 degree angle and one end only. This edge will attach to the lower back piece. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the angled ends of the upper back piece so the pocket holes face the inside of the frame – there will be a left and a right piece. Secure the pieces as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the piece and secure using glue and 1-1/2” pocket holes.

Cut the piece for the center back support. Cut a 12 degree angle in the bottom of the back support. Drill pocket holes in each end of this piece so they face toward the front of the chair. Secure with glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes.

Cut the piece for the back apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the frame with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron piece and secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top of the aprons should be flush with the top of the legs.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides and seat supports. Drill pocket holes in each end and secure to the leg assemblies as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat. Attach to the chair frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the seat into the sides, aprons, and supports.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the back. Attach to the back of the chair frame with the top flush with the top of the upper back frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the legs, upper back, and center support.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

One part dresser, plus one part cubby, equals a whole lotta awesome! This project pairs perfectly with the bed we covered yesterday and with a few other pieces still to come!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¼” lauan, plywood, or hardboard
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 4 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 4 – drawer knobs or handles
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 31” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 15” – Side Panels
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 24” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1x2 at 53” – Bottom Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 54-1/2” – Bottom
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4-3/4” – Support Leg
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 25-1/2” – Dividers
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 12-3/4” x 15” – Shelves
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12” – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 27-1/2” – Drawer Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 18” – Drawer Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-3/4” x 57-1/2” – Top
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 27-3/4” x 56” - Back
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 14-1/2” – Small Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 12-3/8” – Small Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¼” plywood at 12-3/8” x 14-1/2” – Small Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 26-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¼” plywood at 14-1/2” x 26-1/2” – Large Drawer Bottoms
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 13-1/8” – Small Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-3/4” x 27-1/4” – Large Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the bevel in the legs as shown with a jigsaw or circular saw.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side panels frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The face of the frame pieces should be flush with the outside face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the leg frames with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The panels should be flush with the outside face of the frame.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the bottom. Cut ¾” x ¾” notches in the corners of the bottom piece. Drill pocket holes as shown.

Cut the pieces for the bottom sides. Attach to the bottom piece with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the bottom piece should be flush with the top of the side pieces. Attach to the side panels with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the bottom support. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end only. Attach to the center of the bottom with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one end to attach to the bottom.

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each of the 18” ends. Attach to the dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” screws.

Attach the dividers to the bottom and the shelves to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the drawer shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the dividers at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the drawer divider. Drill pocket holes in one end and attach to the upper drawer shelf as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

 

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the sides and front by ¾”. Attach to the dresser using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the legs, side frames, front supports, and drawer divider.

 

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the back. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

 

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottoms with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

 

Step 8
Step 9

For all drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Step 9
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

I'm excited to bring you a new bedroom collection, Cher-Ann has been turning these projects out for us like nobody's business! It's been a while since we tackled a whole bedroom collection, and I think you will love it as much as I do! At least I hope you do... I might also be partial because of the name... After all it's Monster Mash's name, so it must be good, right?

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 5 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 5 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 4’
  • One half sheet of 3/4" plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x6 at 42-1/2” – Headboard Leg
  • 2 – 2x6 at 30” – Footboard Leg
  • 2 – 2x2 at 39-3/4” – Headboard/Footboard Frame
  • 2 – 1x6 at 39-3/4” – Headboard/Footboard Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-13/16” x 39-3/4” – Headboard Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-9/16” x 39-3/4” – Footboard Frame
  • 2 – 1x6 at 76” – Side Rails
  • 2 – 1x2 at 76” – Slat Support
  • 11 – 1x3 at 39-3/4” – Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs as shown.

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x6 frame piece. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x2 piece. Attach to the frame as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws with the pocket holes facing down.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the headboard panel. Cut an 8 deg. bevel on the bottom of the panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the frame with the face of the panel flush with the face of the frame using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the footboard legs as shown.

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x6 frame piece. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x2 piece. Attach to the frame as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws with the pocket holes facing down.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the footboard panel. Cut a 15 deg. bevel on the bottom of the panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the frame with the face of the panel flush with the face of the frame using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side rails. The rails will be located ¾” in from the outside edge of each face. Drill pocket holes at each end and assemble as shown using 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Do not use glue – you may want to disassemble it someday!

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the slat supports. Attach to the side rails locating them 1” above the bottom of the rails using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Do not glue these pieces in either!

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the slats. Attach to the supports spaced approximately 4-1/2” apart using countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

A fabulous addition to the other pieces in the Reef Collection, this table is budget friendly and really easy to build!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 20” – Frame
  • 2 – 1x4 at 20-1/2” - Frame
  • 4 – 2x4 at 19-1/4” – Legs
  • 6 – 1x4 at 23-1/2”” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Make sure the pocket holes are staggered so that the pocket screws to assemble the frame will not conflict with the pocket screws connecting to the legs (see drawings).Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Attach to the frame 1” in from the side face of the legs with 2” pocket hole screws through the frame into the legs. 

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top. Space the boards 1” apart. Attach to the frame and legs with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the frame and legs. 

Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

This easy to build and stylish table is the perfect companion to the sofa and chair in this collection!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x4 at 6’
  • 5 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 44-1/2” – Frame
  • 2 – 1x4 at 20-1/2” - Frame
  • 1 – 1x4 at 19” – Frame Support
  • 4 – 2x4 at 15-3/4” – Legs
  • 6 – 1x4 at 48” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the frame and support. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Make sure the pocket holes are staggered so that the pocket screws to assemble the frame will not conflict with the pocket screws connecting to the legs (see drawings).Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Attach to the frame 1” in from the side face of the legs with 2” pocket hole screws through the frame into the legs. 

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top. Space the boards 1/2” apart. Attach to the frame and legs with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the frame and legs. 

Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

We have plans for the chair, and now the sofa.. I am excited to roll out this new outdoor collection with summer on the mind these days! Easy to build, and fabulous to look at, this collection promises to be a big hit with all of you DIY lovers out there!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 5 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 6 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 24-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 28-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 31-1/2” – Top
  • 1 – 2x4 at 70” – Top
  • 2 – 2x4 at 63” – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 63” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 6” – Center Leg
  • 9 – 1x4 at 18-3/4” – Seat Slats
  • 8 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Side Slats
  • 9 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 28-1/2” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top. Cut 45 deg. miters in each end of the long piece as well as one end of the short pieces. (There will be a left and right) Drill pocket holes in the mitered ends and assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Place on the side assemblies and attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the top of the legs into the top piece.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be the 2x4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side stretcher piece to allow for the seat slats. Attach the leg piece at the center using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach all pieces at the spacing indicated (with the front piece flush with the front of the side frame) to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center of the support with 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

This week is all about the great outdoors, and some fabulous furniture collections to enjoy it with! Today the chair, and the rest of this collection to follow! 

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 4 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 24-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 28-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 31-1/2” – Top
  • 1 – 2x4 at 37” – Top
  • 2 – 2x4 at 30” – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 30” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Seat Support
  • 4 – 1x4 at 18-3/4” – Seat Slats
  • 8 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Side Slats
  • 4 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 28-1/2” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top. Cut 45 deg. miters in each end of the long piece as well as one end of the short pieces. (There will be a left and right) Drill pocket holes in the mitered ends and assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Place on the side assemblies and attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the top of the legs into the top piece.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be the 2x4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side stretcher piece to allow for the seat slats. Attach the leg piece at the center using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach all pieces at the spacing indicated (with the front piece flush with the front of the side frame) to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center of the support with 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Syndicate content