Here are the dimensions of my final table. All measurements are extreme...
Top : 59 1/2" x 22 1/2"
Frame with legs attached : 56 1/2" x 19 1/2"
Height (floor to top of top) 18"
The following photos show the order of my building (guessing) process but here it is in words:
1. Decide how big (L x W) you want the top and then size the hayrake frame to fit with your desired overhang. I like to draw it out on quadril paper (little squares) and then build the hayrake. All of the angles are 45 degrees so fairly simple with your chop saw.
2. Then add the legs but make sure they are accurately placed otherwise the table will wobble. To get all of the legs the exact same length I cut them all at the same time on the chop saw and make minute adjustments with the chop saw as necessary. By minute I really mean minute.
3. Measure, cut and attach the end stretchers. Precise cuts are important to keep everything square. I installed the stretchers with PH screws but it is really hard to hold them in place when putting the screws in.
4. Measure, cut and attach the front and back aprons. Precise cuts are important to keep everything square. I just glued them in the exact location where I wanted them.
5. Cut and add the corner braces. There is a bolt that goes through the leg and through the brace that can be tightened as needed. I also screwed the braces to the stretchers and the aprons. Now everything is in place.
6. Build your top if necessary. I just put two 1 x12 s together with glue and PH screws.
7. Then sand the frame and top. Paint or stain the frame and top.
8. Apply polyurethane or antique oil to the top.
9. Position the frame on the top and attach using PH screws. I don't use glue. The Kreg mini jig is really handy for drilling the PHs for this operation. Now you are DONE!