Plans

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Rectangular Provence Dining Table

09.01.10
Project Image

This table is another piece in the Provence Collection puzzle. It’s beauty is unquestionable, but it’s unique character is what I love. Notice the direction of the table top beams…not typical by any means with it’s horizontal placement! Love it…I also love the $3550 price tag reduction that comes with building it yourselves! This collection is actually meant for outdoor use and has board spacing to accommodate water run off or potential weather issues that may arise. I personally love this piece for indoor use equally as much! This plan has been modified for ease of building and readily available materials and is in no way affiliated with the above mentioned specialty retailer.

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • Saw – you may be able to have your local lumber supply make these cuts for you.
  • Kreg Jig – I suggest purchasing one if you are planning on building this beautiful table, you should do it properly and without blemish, though it can be done without the use of one.
  • Nail Gun – optional but will allow you to connect your table top boards without blemish.
Lumber
  • 4 – 2×10 at 10′
  • 12 – 2×4 at 10′
  • 1 – 2×4 at 8′
Materials
  • 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws (PHS).
  • 2 1/2″ Screws
  • 2 1/2″ Finish Nails – optional for table top
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 9 – 2×10 at 43″ (Table Top)
  • 4- 4×4 at 27 1/2″ (Legs) if you are using 2×4’s instead you will have 8 at 27 1/2″
  • 4 – 2×4 at 84 1/2″ (Table Frame)
  • 2 – 2×4 at 36″ (Side Table Frame Supports) if you are using 2×4’s for the legs this will change to 37″.
  • 4 – 2×4 at 1 3/4″ (Spacers)
  • 2 – 2×4 at 81″ (Aprons)
Instructions

** Since this project can be used outdoors, consider finishing (or sealing) each board prior to assembling to ensure the most water tight and protected coating. Certain wood species tend to be a bit better for outdoor use as a general rule: Cedar, Redwood, and Teak are a few. The original piece that this is modeled after is made from Reclaimed Teak and has the most amazing graining and color. This is likely to be difficult for you to find, but you can substitute with the wood specie of your choice and give your piece a reclaimed finish.

**The original uses large beams for the legs and I have specified untreated 4×4’s, however if you are unable to find these feel free to substiture with 2 – 2×4’s glued and screwed together. If this is your plan you will need to add an 1″ to the length of the Side Table Frame Supports. Otherwise you shouldn’t have any changes that come from making the switch.

** Since this project can be used outdoors, consider finishing (or sealing) each board prior to assembling to ensure the most water tight and protected coating. Certain wood species tend to be a bit better for outdoor use as a general rule: Cedar, Redwood, and Teak are a few. The original piece that this is modeled after is made from Reclaimed Teak and has the most amazing graining and color. This is likely to be difficult for you to find, but you can substitute with the wood specie of your choice and give your piece a reclaimed finish.

**The original uses large beams for the legs and I have specified untreated 4×4’s, however if you are unable to find these feel free to substiture with 2 – 2×4’s glued and screwed together. If this is your plan you will need to add an 1″ to the length of the Side Table Frame Supports. Otherwise you shouldn’t have any changes that come from making the switch.

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1
Step 1

If you are a Kreg Jig owner, skip to step 3 and attach the Outside Aprons first. You won’t need the spacers and doing this step first is easiest for you. The Apron will sit back 1/4″ from the outside edge of the Legs.Then head back to this step and proceed. Fasten the Table Frame Supports to the Legs. Leave 1 3/4″ on either side for the Side Table Frame Supports in the next step. Before you attach these to the legs, create the Pocket holes on either end, for fastening them to the Side Table Frame Supports as well. You will set your Kreg Jig for 1 1/2″ stock.

Step 2
Step 2

Fasten the Side Table Frame Supports to the Table Frame Supports. If using a Kreg Jig you will fasten from the inside, and otherwise you will countersink and fasten from the outside into the Table Frame supports. Then attach the remaining 2 Support Beams.

Step 3
Step 3

For all of you non-Kreg Jig Owners, you will need to fasten little 1 3/4″ Spacers to the Legs and then fasten the outside Aprons to the Spacers. For the Kreg Owners, you have already addressed this step and can proceed to fastening the table top boards in place in the next step.

Step 4
Step 4

Fasten the Table Top boards in place using 2 1/2″ Screws or Finish Nails, and fasten to the Supports, Legs, and Aprons. Leave approximately 1/2″ between boards. Because this has slightly funny dimensioning, I recommend fastening the 2 boards on the outside first. Then fasten the middle board by taking the midpoint measurement of the remaining space and the midpoint of the board and attaching. Find the midpoint between the middle and outside boards and fasten the next set of boards and so on and so forth. We are working with an odd number so this should be pretty simple and is the easiest way to work with decimal measurements.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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